My name is Anam Xinwa, aka the short 1, founder and editor of ilaph’lam Afrikan Fashion Journal. I am a designer and fashion activist. Ilaph’lam means my fabric in isiXhosa. The aim of this magazine is to promote and market people in the fashion industry, especially those who do not have the means and know how. This is their platform. In our first issue we focus on Afrikan designers, a UK stylist, South Afrikan columnists and the main feature on Nolu Nojozi, a Cape Town make-up artists. I am not a writer or journalist, in fact this mag answers only to the love of fashion. We are brought together by the common interest we share in not just looking good but, expressing ourselves through our image. Many fashion houses close their doors as a result of bad marketing (or lack of any) and well thought out business principles. With this journal we will work from the ground up, from the basics of fashion right through to beyond the store shelf and balance sheets. Fashion is our life and so we live it well. We will have fun, share ideas and change the industry together through this platform of the Afrikan Fashion Journal. So if you are, or know, a designer, fashion writer, fashionista or model (or a modelling agency) contact us, tell your friends and your aunt’s skweezas about us... even better, forward this mag (link/page) to everyone you know. For a more fashionable world. call : 0836839877 / 08447837820 email : anamxinwa@yahoo.com
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my feelings, state of mind and moods. It can also be my medicine and sometimes it may not be a good thing (we’ll get into that in the future). Much like music, looking good can change your mood in an instant and transform self confidence.
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s an opening let me make my welcome to our dear readers. We are f you were close to me and took note about to take a journey together in the of my dress sense you could tell a story field we love and live with daily; fashion. and even read stories from the image I’m portraying. This story is told from the This art form as we see it, its trends, inside out. There is always something to styles and fashion, not as we know it. be said. Even for those who don’t have fashion sense.They speak in a senseless Whether we like to admit it or not, our fashion language. Maybe they are image is a reflection of who we are and thinking “I’m much too concerned and what can be expected of us. Judgments occupied about something else and this are made based on first impressions, in is just a cloth to cover me so I don’t walk social settings as well as our work place. around naked’’, maybe some people So we can’t ignore it, our clothes talk, dress to hide certain things about their our hair talks, those shoes talk and all of lives. It is possible to find someone who them combined make a statement. dresses in sloppy comfortable clothes not because they want but because their I don’t know about you but, for me emotions are turning away from a certain fashion is a form of art that translates
behaviour that is projected by looking a certain way. This may occur in cases of people who were sexually abused in their childhood to an extent they may feel attractive clothes may call for someone’s attention to desire and treat them in that manner, so in protection they wear unattractive clothing.
things that make us look the ways we do.
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This is fashion not as we know it, and together we tell african stories on catwalks, backstages, work shops, boutiques and in all ways visual.
aith Allen, who was a victim of abuse, writes in her Blooming Lotus website: “Body image issues are very common for child abuse survivors. Some child abuse survivors, particularly those who suffered from sexual abuse, wear baggy clothing so their bodies are covered. Many people who self-injure in ways that leave scars (such as cutting or burning) will wear long sleeves, even in the heat of the summer, to hide their scars”. Even just a simple case of body insecurities, there is a long list of other
So, you see, there is a depth we miss about the meaning of our dress sense and looks. Behind every fashion statement is a story. Each individual’s style is their translation of their life story.
Current trends are very bright colours, light and floral fabrics. And I get the feeling we will be back to whites pretty soon. STYLE TIP: A white shirt in your wardrobes is a must have. It speaks of confidence and power, and can be worn formal or casual to tell yout fashion story.
AFJ
There is a tradition breeding in the townships of Johannesburg, presumably in place of stick fighting. Of boys made famous by their flambouyant designer clothes and wasteful spending. Theirs is an extreme take on colour blocking as these kings of swag adorn themselves with what looks like sewn table cloth patterns. They wear shirts with fruity prints (literaly). This is one of those things that a person ought to see for themselves, though it is a sight for sore eyes. These floral garments are said to cost “hundreds of rands”, and are of “high quality”. So they say
Do you recall my first sentence? This tradition is about a fight to prove who is the best, in the life of swag. It has With a mouthful of gold teeth of many become accepted for these youth (clearly shapes, they call themselves izikhotane. lacking in maturity) to do this. And so This teenage tribe are high school youths they do. who are dependent on their parents; In a fashion that fills the mature observer is it thus their parents that fund this with pity and the needy with envy, after exhorbitant lifestyle? A life where leisure every battle, the winner must present involves tearing bank notes (among other a sign of his victory. In the world of equally ignorant acts) to compare wallet isikhothane that proof is the sole of the size and prove their swag credibility. rival’s shoe on the loser’s clothes. This, no doubt, shows that he wears cheap In the midst of it all, back at home the clothes. fridge is empty and cockroaches are enjoying what’s left of the crumbs. The shame in all of this is the fact that, They have neither medical or educational is it their parents that support and funds. encourage this ridiculous trend. A trend WHO ARE THESE
WHAT DO THEY HAVE
that shows no signs of development, either with their maturity or integrity. It is perhaps fair to assume that the monies funding this are gotten through illegal means. Somehow this (uku-khota) has led some of its proponents to suicide ( after failing to keep up with the standards).
They own a proud wardrobe that many would dream and dread equaly. Wanting it for the price tag attached to it while shuning its detail. These clothes can range from R300 up to R3500. Whilst some hold their pants up with Perhaps this tradition is not conducive to a R50 belt bought in the street, the the only swag that matters, integrity. izikhotane proudly show off their R300 belts and yet still remain in under-funded public schools. A complete outfit can cost anything from R8 500 to well over R10 000.
AFJ
Sometimes I will go for a girly yet elegant look; sometimes I will rock up in a corporate yet classy look with Rihanna’s Oh! Nana pumping in my head.
style is personal. I’m a glam-girl and I’m not apologetic about my dress style. It is many things, though most of all it is unique. It shows that I am always ready to step out and fit in any event or movement that pushes the envelope of fashion. As legendary designer Miuccia Prada puts it “fashion is a very powerful instrument that allows you to transmit ideas and shape opinion”. I dress for success because I am an Afrikan woman and I take pride in myself. I like the fact that I will always rock up looking different, that is really who I am. Different.
After all it always boils down to the willingness to try something new, and for me this usually depends on my mood. Through ilaph’lam it will be our duty to educate our readers on various career options available in the fashion arena and how they can make a success in their chosen industry. There is a lot that the readers and those interested in the field can explore, from the booming commercial industry, image consulting, buying, fashion editor, trends analyst and designer, though the list is an endless one. Foreign manufaturers are currently monopolising this industry, it is now time that our South African designers get a slice of that pie and it is also our responsibility to promote theses designers in that way there will be more employment in our country.
SPRING IS an exciting season; with flowers in full bloom the sun feels warmer and the colour gets turned up on everything. This is really a time where individuals are allowed to be cool. Colour cool. PASTEL COLOURS are going to be big this season, however the best spring colour
South Africa can then be among other countries that set the standards in the world of fashion. We are the people that are not afraid to dream big. We want ilaph’lam to be yours.
right now is mint green. MINT GREEN is currently the trendiest and sexiest of pastel colours. It is such an easy colour to coordinate your wardrobe with. Our streets have become our catwalks and so we are bringing Afrikan fashion Add dashes and streaks of coral, yellow, to its people. pink and teal. AFJ The rule to remember is to use mint green to communicate softness, sexyness and simple beauty. Mint green works for most skin tones and can be worn anywhere with anything, taking us right through summer it is indeed a colour with a long life span. Mint also works on a lot of silhouettes and styles. From Jackets, shoes, bags, skirts to high-low dresses. You name it, it works best with mint green. AFJ
Fashion is about accepting who you are and telling yourself that this is your body and you’re stuck with it till the end. In fashion you don’t have to get it right all the time. We are all bound to make mistakes. This is okay. Fashion is art. Fashion is being confident in whatever makes you feel comfortable and makes you look good.
LOUDCOLOUR COMBINATIONS make for a fantastic and dynamic confident look.
Don’t be afraid to be different from other people. As research shows that fashion is a general term for a popular style or practise, especially in clothing, footwear, accessories and makeup. Fashion is not something reserved for dresses and costumes. Fashion has to do with creative ideas, the way we live everyday. What’s happening or what’s going to happen in the future. Fashion is the newest creation made by designers and bought by people like me to you. Fashion that breaks through the clutter is translated into more established trends.
YOU CAN USE FASHION TO EXPRESS YOURSELF, TO SERVE AS AN EXTENSION
OR YOU CAN USE FASHION TO DISGUISE YOURSELF.
Statements can be made with clothes, accessories , shoes. I love having fun with clothes. My comfort is in clothes. Fashion is an art form, to others it is a religion. For most people it’s a form of utilising clothes, accessories, hair and makeup or even your cell phone. In fashion a new season means a new wardrobe. Hit the mall and check out all the latest and greatest trends. Keep up with fashion. Arrange to have your favourite magazine delivered straight to your door step. Invest in an expensive classic item. Some styles are forever vogue and will last several years. Remember to explore.
AFJ
This is a story of a fashion business and how friends and family could be detrimental to it. These people who never buy. They’ll always compliment your craftsmanship and your creativity, and that’s where it ends. If you’re pretending not to know, this breakdown is what you need...
(#1) the mother of all business killers is friends. They borrow and never return. They always cry for discounts but never pay. The big trade off for your impressive talents here is free food and beer as well as their company.
(#2) Family. They are actualy the worst. They always ask for family discounts. Which means they will supply the fabric and let the family discount cover the rest. If you’re one of the lucky ones you might have that odd relative who will maybe buy you a cool drink and slide you a hundred (for something nice to eat). Because all families of fashion designers (and other artists) know that what you doing is not really a job. It’s something to pass time. A hobby. And when your business suffers, you can count on family to start approaching other designers instead of promoting you. And when you see them rocking that garment you will act like you did not notice. Such is the life of a designer.
Of course if they had the money they would buy they never so they never pay. I don’t know if people don’t understand that compliments don’t pay rent, feed me or grow my business. Every time i get compliments for my craftsmanship i feel like throwing up. I guess this is the disadvantage of being an unknown designer. But I beg you that next time you want a garment either join a queue or pay your local designer but, stop asking for bloody discounts.
“the only thing they do is shower you with compliments” (#3) Without fail, every designer has the The Disgruntled Designer in support of up YouSoGood customer. These are by far and coming designers my favourite. They never buy anything, the only thing they do is shower you with compliments of how good you are and will always lay that line on you.
AFJ
This is where she has incorporated all her five years’ experience in the beauty industry. She specialises in makeup at weddings and special events, make-over consultations, personalized make-up lessons, fashion and photography, facials, manicures and pedicures, massages, group and corporate events.
It is no wonder that freelance makeupartist Nolu Nojozi (23) has gravitated towards the entrepreneurial. Having completed a 3yr ND in Somatology at CPUT, she began her career as a makeup artist at MAC Cosmetics; working for two and a half year as a retail makeup artist in both Jhb and Cape Town branches. Her experience has helped polish her expertise as a freelance makeup artist, and this has led her to doing makeup for singer and Mnet Idol’s judge Unathi Msengana on various occasions. In 2009, during the Fifa WC draw (in Cape Town), she had the opportunity of doing makeup for David Beckham, Sepp Blater and Danny Jordaan. She has also worked on various fashion shows, television shows, fashion shoots and weddings. She has now opened a mobile beauty salon (Touch of Faith Mobile Beauty).
And all of this can done at the comfort of the client’s home or office.
“I have recently started operations. I am the sole owner and the head therapist but, I also have freelance therapists that are on call whenever I have a big job. I love what I do as it gives me the opportunity to make an instant difference in someone’s life, no matter how big or small.” In the next 5 years Nolu plans to expand her business and open a mobile day spa.
AFJ
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