Marketing the Black Death P 18 Handmade from Local Materials P 30 A small village in central Reykjavík P 54 vol.
03 2014
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T r av e l · N at u r e · n e w s · P e o p l e · C u lt u r e
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The HOmecoming p.22
Nearly half of the world’s puffin population is in Iceland during the summer. They spend the rest of the year out at sea.
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Highlights Ahead P 14 A tribute to the Icelandic Horse P 16 Best of West Iceland P 30
Ic e l a n d M ag . c o m You r s ou r c e f or da i ly n e w s f r om Ic e l a n d, l o c a l t i p s a n d e x p e rt i s e
Contents
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from the editor
30 Jón Kaldal jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com
White Nights
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here is no driving into the sunset in June in Iceland. This is the time when day conquers night, when brightness wipes out the darkness. It doesn’t matter how often you have witnessed this cycle. It is always beautiful to see the midnightsun hover over the horizon, the late night light lending the landscape a magical glow and making every photographer’s dream come true. The winter is dark and often grey and grim in Iceland. On December 23, when the length of the day is at its shortest, sunrise in Reykjavik is at 11:21 and sunset at 15:30. But the unrelenting summer days of the northern hemisphere outshine the winter. Nowhere on the globe is there more daylight than “It doesn’t at a latitude of 69°, a few matter how degrees north of Iceland, with an average of 15.1 often you have hours for every 24-hour witnessed period. And at 65°, which lies directly over Iceland, the this cycle. average length of the day is It is always 14.9 hours. In comparison, beautif ul to see the total number of hours of brightness close to the the midnightsun equator from midnight to midnight is only 12.8 hours. hover over the This abundant light is a true force of nature, horizon.” affecting people and animals alike, bringing higher energy and enthusiasm to life, and for some visitors and newcomers, an unfamiliar experience. As one of our writers explained after a night out on the town, “In Chicago, if you are out drinking when the sun rises, you are perceived to have a problem. In Reykjavik, if you are NOT out when the sun rises, you are perceived to be heading home early.” Occasionally, when you are away from the city, out in the country during those seemingly endless days, you suddenly realize it is almost like time has ceased to exist. Those are truly magical moments.
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Contents 6-20 Lookout 6 A Taste of Two Worlds 8 The Best Downtown Coffee shops 10 A Secret Revealed 12-14 Highlights Ahead 16 Iceland’s first “equestrian theatre” 18 Marketing the Black Death Joe Spiegel’s Adventure to Bring Iceland´s Signature Drink to America 22 Up Close & Personal With nearly half the world’s puffin population choosing to settle in Iceland during the summer, few places on the globe offer better opportunities to lay eyes on these tiny penguin-like birds. 30 Handmade from Local Materials Aaron Bullion, an Englishman who has lived in Iceland on and off for ten years, is the creative director behind Reykjavík Drapers Union, a small manufacturer of handmade, high quality goods. 32-47 Special Supplement: Best of the West The less-traveled region of West Iceland is home to thriving fishing villages, key settings of the Sagas, and numerous magnificent wonders of nature.
IcelandMag.com Published by Imag ehf. Editor Jón Kaldal, jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com Advertising sales: Benedikt Freyr Jónsson benni@icelandmag.com Contributing writers and photographers: Sara McMahon, Matt Eliason, Björn Árnason, Vilhelm Gunnarsson, Agnes Valdimarsdóttir, Valli, Gunnar V. Andrésson, Pjetur Sigurðsson and Stefán Karlsson Layout: Ivan burkni On the Cover: Puffin heading to shore. See feature on page 22. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson Printed by Ísafold. Distribution by Póstdreifing. Distributed free around Iceland and in the capital area. Talk to us: hello@icelandmag.com
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48 Iceland Magazine Explains Are there penguins and polar-bears in Iceland? Iceland Magazine is printed on a Nordic ecolabelled printing paper that fulfils strict environmental requirements. Nordic Ecolabel is the official Ecolabel of the Nordic countries.
52 Keflavík International Airport Avoid delays by using online check-in. 54 A small village in central Reykjavík Restaurateur Hrefna Rósa Jóhannsdóttir Sætran talks about her neighborhood.
SOUVENIR SHOP SHOP OF THE YEAR 2012
The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri e:info@theviking.is
Akureyri Reykjavík
www.theviking.is TAX FREE
Lookout Aalto Bistro
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Taste of Two Worlds Aalto Bistro is a new restaurant located in the Nordic House, just a stone’s throw from the National University. The restaurant is run and owned by Sveinn Kjartansson, a well-known chef in Iceland, and the food is described as New Scandinavian cuisine with a Mediterranean twist.
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The entrance to the restaurant is via the Nordic House cultural centre’s lobby. The culture house is an organic modernist building, designed in 1968 by the renowned Finnish architect Alvar Aalto, hence the restaurant’s name. The building is typical of Aalto’s modernist style and is the only building in Iceland designed by an internationally acclaimed architect. Sveinn had long been fond of the unique building, so when the opportunity to open a restaurant there presented itself, he was quick off the mark. “I have been in love with the building ever since I was a young boy, and the location is brilliant; it’s right in the city centre yet in an open setting surrounded by wild birdlife. I’m also a big fan of Aalto’s work, so this was an
opportunity I simply couldn’t resist,” Sveinn explains. And he is right. The décor is quite unlike anything you would find in any other restaurant in Reykjavík. This is mostly due to Aalto’s sleek, modern design (the architect also designed most of the furniture and gave special treatments to the interior surfaces), and the view over the surrounding Vatnsmýrin moorland is quite spectacular. The chef also runs a small bistro-style restaurant located in Hannesarholt Cultural Centre on Grundarstígur 10, in downtown Reykjavík. Asked whether he’ll have time to oversee and cook in both restaurants, he replies: “Of course. It won’t be a problem. I live right in the middle between the two restaurants, and I have my bike to dash between locations.” -SM
Aalto Bistro is located in the Nordic House on Sturlugata 5 and is open for lunch, tea, and dinner. Mon – Wed: 11am – 5pm / Thu – Sun: 11am – 9 pm
T sw
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e c r u o s A alth e h of
T her m al sw im m in g po ol s
Hot t ubs and jacuzzi
Sa un as , steambat hs an d sh ow ers
*Admission February 2014. Price is subject to change
Reykjavik's Thermal Pools
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Thermal pools and d baths in Reykjavik are a source of health health, relaxation laxation and puren pureness. All of the city´s swimming pools have several hot pots with temperatures ranging from 37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F). The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F).
Tel: +354 411 5000 • www.spacity.is
Lookout highlights ahead
7 of the Best Downtown Coffee shops The coffee culture in Reykjavík boarders on fanaticism – Icelanders seriously enjoy a good cuppa Joe. This means you’ll be spoiled for choice when in search of the perfect blend.
1 Café Haiti This unpretentious little coffee shop by the old harbour serves and sells their own coffee, bought straight from small coffee farms in Haiti. Elda Thorisson-Faurelien, a native Haitian, and her husband, Methúsalem Þórisson, opened the café in 2008. If you like the taste of caraway, do try their fantastic Arabic coffee. Kaffi Haiti, Geirsgata 7b, 101 Reykjavík
2 Reykjavík Roasters,
Kárastígur Local coffee enthusiasts claim this is where the best cup of coffee is to be found, so the tiny space can
get pretty crowded. You may not always be able to enjoy the strong brew that will jolt you awake on the premises, but you can of course always grab one to go. Reykjavík Roasters, Kárastígur 1, 101 Reykjavík
3 Te og Kaffi, Aðalstræti Te og kaffi run a chain of coffee shops all over town. The one in Aðalstræti boasts huge windows, making it ideal for people watching – and the coffee is pretty good too.
Photo/Puffin Coffee
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Kaffitár is a franchise you’ll find all over the city, e.g. in Bankastræti, the National Museum, and the Kringlan Shopping Centre. The coffee is delish, and they’ve employed many of Iceland’s coffee-barista champions, so you know you’re being served an award-winning cup of coffee each time. Kaffitár, Bankastræti 8, 101 Reykjavík
5 Litli bóndabærinn (The Little Farm) This tiny take-away place, on, offers organic coffee and of course organic milk to go with it. The owner also sells mouth-watering,
Te og Kaffi, Austurstræti 9, 101 Reykjavík
WELCOME TO PUFFIN COFFEE. Sverrir Rolf Sander runs Puffin Coffee from his home.
4 Kaffitár
home-made cakes and cookies for those with a sweet tooth. Litli Bóndabærinn, Laugavegur 41, 101 Reykjavík.
6 Nzozi This itsy-bitsy coffee shop on offers coffee bought straight from farmers in Burundi and Rwanda. You can buy either a brewed coffee to go or coffee beans in eco-friendly packaging. The coffee has a different taste than other coffee brands available in Iceland. So be sure to give it a try. Nzozi, Ingólfsstræti 6. 101 Reykjavík
Serves free coffee from his kitchen window in central Reykjavík “When I’m home, I’ll leave the kitchen window open or a sign out on the street indicating people can drop by for coffee. I also advertise opening hours on our Facebook page,” explains Sverrir Rolf Sander, who runs the coffee shop Puffin Coffee from his home in Baldursgata 26, central Reykjavík. The coffee shop opened for the first time this spring, and although its opening hours are completely random, it has been well received. The coffee is free of charge, but Sverrir accepts donations, which will go to fund research on autism. “My best friend’s son is diagnosed with autism, so this is a cause close to my heart,” he says. Puffin Coffee serves regular espresso coffee and coffee brewed with a Kalita dripper or an Aeropress, which is a brewing technique similar to the French press. Sverrir makes the coffee himself, but does get some help from family and friends. “Luckily I’m surrounded by good people who are willing to lend a helping hand. My cousin baked oatmeal cookies yesterday morning to serve with our coffee, and one of my best friends has helped me manage the social media side,” he concludes.
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Puffin Coffee on Twitter @puffincoffee and on facebook.com/puffincoffeeiceland
In our souvenir shop you will find Icelandic design inspired by the Northern Lights Designs by: Dimmblá Stál í stál - Jens Volcap Olason paintings Gingó hönnun Svandís Kandís and more Free coffee & tea at our store
Maritime museum CCP
Hotel Marina
The Northern Light Center
Visit us and experience our multimedia exhibition It's only a ten-minute walk from the city center The old harbour Harpan Music hall Reykjavík Art museum Kolaportið fleemarket
www.aurorareykjavik.is
Grandagarður 2 - 101 Reykjavík Open every day from 10:00 - 22:00
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A Secret Revealed Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson
Vogagjá and Grjótagjá are old bathing places in fissures and caves in Mývatnssveit, North Iceland. Whilst Grjótagjá has gained popularlity in recent years, Vogagjá can still be considered one of Iceland’s best kept secret - mostly due to the fact that it’s difficult to find. Between 1975 and 1980, three volcanic eruptions occurred in Krafla, increasing the temperature of the water in Grjótagjá to 60°C (140°F) making the water too hot for bathing. The temperatures dropped over time and people could bathe in the fissures again. The temperatures are known to fluct uate however, so make sure to stay in the cooler part and stay careful. This photo is from Vogagjá, the fissure you’re less likely to find. It’s often called Leynigjá (Secret Fissure) and is located approximately 1 kilometer (0.6 miles) South of the better known Grjótagjá. It’s time to put your inner Sherlock to the test.
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Lookout highlights ahead
Sjómannadagurinn in Patreksfjörður Fjord Sjómannadagurinn is celebrated across Iceland annually to honour fishermen both living and lost. Events are created around the harbour in every town or village where visitors and locals alike get a sneak peak into the world of fishermen. The day was first celebrated in 1938. http://www.vesturbyggd.is/sjomannadagurinn/
The Exploration Museum
Summer Solstice in Grímsey Secret Solstice Music Festival For the first time ever, the Secret Solstice Festival is being held between June 20th and 22nd in the Laugardalur recreational area in Reykjavik. The Summer Solstice was the time of bounty in the lives of the Nordic nations and a cause for celebration, and so the theme for the festival is Norse Mythology. That being said, all the venues have Norse mythology names, including Valhalla and Asgard. www.secretsolstice.is
Summer Solstice is celebrated across the country, and Grímsey is no exception to the celebrations. Grímsey is Iceland’s northernmost inhabited island, and the only part of the country that lies above the Arctic Circle. As Iceland is known for its midnight sun over the summer months, you can only imagine what it’s like being at the northernmost point on the longest day of the year. http://www.akureyri.is/grimsey/
Located 30 miles from the Arctic Circle in north Iceland is the town of Húsavík, home to the Exploration Museum. If you’re lucky, you just might run into an astronaut wandering around town this summer. The main exhibition room features artifacts from the Apollo Astronaut Training, which took place near Húsavík in 1965 and 1967. http://www.explorationmuseum.com/
Star Wars Eyjafjallajökull may be impossible to pronounce for foreigners, but that didn’t stop Han Solo’s good friend Chewbacca from paying a visit to the glacier. Rumours claim that JJ Abrams and crew came to Iceland in May and could possibly still be in the country, filming Star Wars Episode VII. Now you have two reasons to visit the volcano whose name you can’t pronounce— just watch out for the Stormtroopers.
See more about what’s on in Iceland at icelandmag.com
From left, Kristján, Garðar and Gissur. You can expect some serious peackocking when these three share the same stage.
Local Legends
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celand’s legendary tenors; Kristján Jóhannsson, Gissur Páll Gissurarson and Garðar Þór Cortes have joined forces with restaurant Björtuloft, creating a program called “The Reykjavik Skyline Dinner with Phantoms of the Opera”. The restaurant is located on the top floor of the Harpa concert hall overlooking the Reykjavík skyline, the old harbour and the Snæfells peninsula. Kristján Jóhannsson is a La Scala veteran, who has lived and performed in Italy most of his career. He performed with many famous vocalists including the
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late mr. Pavarotti. Gissur Páll has also studied in Italy and has performed in some of the best opera houses in the world. Gissur has won the Icelandic music awards in addition to numerous other triumphs. Garðar Thór Cortes, dubbed the platinum tenor, has had a number one album in the UK and was nominated for a Classical Brit in 2008. The evening consists of arias, Italian, German and French love songs as well as Icelandic melodies and songs from other musicals. See dates at Harpa.is
Monster Off-roaders This is a spectacular event indeed. Photos/ Vilhelm Gunnarsson
Formula Off-Road As descendants of Vikings, it comes as no surprise that Icelanders like their sports a little on the risky side. Formula Off-Road is a form of off-road racing 4x4 motorsport, created in Iceland, by Icelanders. There is an official national championship with several races scheduled during the summer months. The monster off-roaders come to the town of Egilstaðir in East Iceland on June 28th. Egilsstaðir, east Iceland.
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www.adventures.is | info@adventures.is | +354-562-7000 | Downtown ReykjavĂk Sales Office at Laugavegur 11
Lookout highlights ahead
The Nature and People of the North elandic photographer Ragnar Axelsson has for the past three decades documented the way of life of hunters in Greenland, and farmers and fishermen in Iceland and the Faeroes. The exhibition at the Reykjavík Museum of Photography comprises a selection of Ragnar’s best-known photo-series from the west Nordic countries. It also includes images from Siberia and a selection of Ragnar’s news photography, including photos from the Baltic States at the dawn of a new era, and of shipwrecks and natural disasters – and arresting pictures of the impact that man is having on the nature of the North. Until Sept. 7th, ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is
SNÆFELLSJÖKULL Jöklaferðir Glacier tours www.snjofell.is • Sími / Tel 435 6783 snjofell@snjofell.is • snjofell@hringhotels.is
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www.n1.is
facebook.com/enneinn ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS ENN 69139 05/14
Tank up at N1 on your way around Iceland
The points indicate where you’ll find N1 service stations around Iceland
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N1 is a network of service stations, located all around Iceland. There you can find anything you might need for the road, both fuel, food and entertainment. Our mission is to offer excellent services to anyone on the road. At selected N1 service stations, travelers enjoy complimentary Wi-Fi – perfect to share those travel memories in real time. At the largest service stations, you can either tank up yourself or rely on our swift service, shop for essentials, entertainment and snacks or just take a well-deserved break over a cup of coffee. Tank up your car at N1 and fuel your body and soul at the same time.
Let´s go!
Lookout Fákasel
Talent & Beauty Iceland’s first “equestrian theatre” is open for business. The centre also features a restaurant and designer shop.
Paying tribute to the most useful servant The show intertwines history and folklore with the the Icelandic horse as the main attraction.
he equestrian centre Fákasel opened in the Ölfus area in February this year. The centre, which also features a sleek, modern restaurant and design shop, is situated midway between the neighbouring towns of Hveragerði and Selfoss on the south coast of Iceland. Its aim is to showcase the talent and beauty of the Icelandic horse. For centuries Icelanders referred to the Icelandic horse as “þarfasti þjónninn,” or “the most useful servant,” as it made living in this rugged land somewhat easier. Fákasel pays tribute to the most useful servant in the country’s very first equestrian theatre, with daily performances for the public. Guðmar Þór Pétursson, assistant managing director of Fákasel and the show‘s director, told Channel 2 News that, although a lot of work has been put into the centre’s design and exterior, the Icelandic horse is the main attraction.
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Cafe and reataurant Open daily from 10AM to 10PM.
“The horse is most certainly the star of the show,” Guðmar said. What makes the Icelandic horse unique in the world is that it can perform two gaits in addition to the usual walk, trot, and gallop. The first is a four-beat ambling gait called tölt, and the second is called skeið, or flying pace. The latter gait is fast and smooth, with some horses being able to reach up to 48 kilometres per hour (30 miles per hour). These two additional gaits will be featured in the show, which also intertwines Iceland’s history and folklore. The design shop Featuring clothes and items by Icelandic designers KronKron, Farmers Market, Andrea Maack and more.
Website: www.fakasel.is
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Marketing the Black Death Joe Spiegel’s Adventure to Bring Iceland´s Signature Drink to America Text by Matt Eliason
circumstances, however, allowed one American to stumble upon the majesty, or horror, of Brennivín during frequent layovers in Iceland’s Keflavík airport, while waiting for connect ing flights to the United States.
Iceland’s signature alcohol With a mystical reputation as well as an intimidating nickname, Iceland’s most popular distilled bev erage, Brennivín, possesses an al most supernatural identity. Served ice cold, in the form of a shot, the national alcohol is extremely popular in Iceland, but does not have much of a presence outside of this country. In fact, the Icelandic drink that is traditionally used to help mask the taste of fermented shark flesh that is eaten at Iceland’s midwinter feast, Þorrablót, is produced at only one distillery. A series of fortuitous
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This man, Joe Spiegel, not only enjoyed drinking the traditional Icelandic liquor, but also saw an opportunity to bring the signature alcohol over to the American con sumer. After founding Brennivín America, Joe started to develop his marketing strategy for exposing “The Black Death” to the Yanks. He set up the primary operations for his new company in Jackson, Wyoming, home of the famous Jackson Hole ski resort. The decision to set up shop in Wyoming sounded like an interesting, almost random, choice, until I had the chance to speak to Joe and learned
about his highly calculated mark eting strategy that will hold the key to Brennivín’s success in the American market.
Limeited Supply The notion of authenticity seems to be the core focus of Joe’s vision for Brennivín in the States. “We can’t be everything to everyone,” says Spiegel, as he passionately discusses the future of his company. “The goal is not to be in every bar. Just a few places, so people can discover us on their own.” Brennivín America aims to pique America’s curiosity about the mystical drink, while also manag ing a somewhat limited supply. With only one distillery in Iceland producing the liquor, slow and steady growth is the recipe for success in Brennivín’s American blueprint. Also, the limited supply will encourage high-end cocktail bars to see Brennivín as a rare, unique, and original hard alcohol
similar to aquavit. “Discovering the unique taste of Brennivín is a whole new experience,” explains Joe, as he recalls trying Iceland’s Black Death for the first time. “The taste was distinctly unique, like nothing I had tasted in the US before.” The 80 proof liquor is traditionally brewed using potato mash, lightly flavored with caraway, cumin, and other spices.
Eerily similar So, with all the populous, bar-fill ed cities in the United States, why choose Wyoming as a start ing point for Brennivín? Surpris ingly, there are many similarities between Wyoming and Iceland, two otherwise unrelated geograph ical locations. For starters, both areas have similar populations with economies that are heavily reliant on the tourism industry. Additionally, both regions are very pleasant in the summer, with visi tors coming with high expectations
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Black Death
“We can’t be everything to everyone,” says Spiegel, as he passionately discusses the future of his company.
of trying something new. What alcohol could provide a more ad venturous experience than the exotic Icelandic intoxicant called the Black Death? Another essential similarity is the government’s role in the distribution of alcohol. In Iceland, liquor is available at licensed restaurants or in the 48 state-run liquor stores (there is a monopoly on the sales of alcohol in Iceland.) Government in Wyoming also controls the distribution and sale of alcohol, creating a level playing field, so that start-ups like Brennivín America have a greater ability to compete for shelf space
will be placed in select bars and stores as a sort of underground, indie label. Additionally, Iceland’s biggest airline, Icelandair, also helps spread the word about their signature drink. Spiegel states that he wants to capitalize on other cities to which Icelandair flies, and that the popular airliner and pride of Iceland “does a great job…marketing the product and the country as a whole.”Another key aspect in the marketing of this exotic drink comes in the form of its distinct label. Brenni vín’s nickname, Black Death, came originally from the bottle’s tradi
artistic talents. Hjalti helped capt ure the spirit of the older bottles, while also creating an amazing new look for the American bottle.
Adventurous authenticity Thus, the unique flavor coupled with a creative marketing strategy will give Joe Spiegel and co. a strong platform as the liquor fondly known as the Black Death invades the States. With
a theme of adventurous authenticity, Brennivín will likely catch on as a niche alcohol for those who seek out its mystical existence. Joe warns potential Brennivín consumers to “not fight the taste, but embrace it,” as this aquavit-style alcohol attempts to dominate the Wyoming nights. The only question left to ask is, can you handle the Black Death?
Brennivín Cocktail Recipes Black Rose: Created 2014 by Jeff Grdinich of The Rose, Jackson Hole, WY • • •
1.5 oz Brennivín 1.25 oz Lillet Rose 0.25 oz Kina D’Avion d’Or
Method: Stir / Strain Glass: Coupe Garnish: None
Iced Coffee: Created 2014 by Jeff Grdinich & Brittany Fells of The Rose, Jackson Hole, WY • • • • •
1.75 oz Brennivín 0.25 oz Galliano Ristretto 0.5 oz Cruzan Blackstrap Rum 0.75 oz Grapefruit Juice 1 Barspoon Demerara Syrup
Method: Shake / Strain Glass: Double Old Fashioned with Crushed Ice Garnish: Mint Sprig
Appel-Sin: Created 2014 by Jason Moore of Brennivin America Brennivín Iceland’s signature liquor is available in selected bars in the USA.
against more recognizable brand names. Who knew that Wyoming could provide such a quality test market for the otherwise unrelated Nordic country?
Spreading the word While Jackson, Wyoming, is the primary base of Brennivín Ameri ca, the company plans to expand to select cities with a very strategic and conservative approach in mind. San Francisco, Seattle, Boston, and LA are on the shortlist of cities where Brennivín will be available within the next couple of months. However, with supply not reaching adequate levels to fully support these large populations, Brennivín
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tional somber, unadorned black label. Finding the right mixture of authenticity and aesthetic appe al provided a challenge for Joe Spi egel in his choice for Brennivín’s American artwork. Additionally, Spiegel had to make sure the new label would comply with the strict regulations regarding alcohol labeling in the US. Brennivín America was given access to all the Icelandic government’s archiv es documenting the history of the iconic drink, providing a color ful platform to inspire Joe in his quest for the perfect branding. Ultimately, Spiegel teamed up with Hjalti Karlsson, a US-based Icelandic designer known for his
• • • •
2 oz Brennivín 1 oz Lillet Blanc 1 oz Tangerine or mandarin orange juice, preferably the Ojai Pixie Tangerine 2 dashes citrus bitters
Method: Shake Glass: Coup Garnish: Orange peel
Harry’s Old Fashioned: Created 2014 by Harry Scheff (http://cocktailsandcologne.com/Document18) • • • •
1 oz Brennivín 1 oz Rittenhouse Rye 1 dash bitters ½ barspoon simple syrup
Method: Shake Glass: Double Old Fashioned Garnish: Orange peel
Up Close and Personal With nearly half the world’s puffin population choosing to settle in Iceland during the summer, few places on the globe offer better opportunities to lay eyes on these tiny penguin-like birds. Text by Agnes Valdimarsdóttir Photos by Vilhelm Gunnarsson
hile puffin colonies are located all around Iceland, there are a few places where your chances of catching the bird are more likely than others, as shown on the map on page 24. Many puffin visits require you to get over your seasickness and buckle up for an hour or so on a boat, but quite a few good ones can be reached by car. With good binoculars, you are even able to see puffins out at Akurey island from Grótta, the westernmost tip of the capital area’s Seltjarnarnes penininsula.
The grand colony of Westman Islands The largest puffin colony in Iceland is without a doubt in the Westman Islands off the south coast of Iceland. According to Gunnar Þór Hallgrímsson, an ornithologist in Reykjavik, the
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puffin population in the Westman Islands was estimated at 1,120,000 couples in 2011, or nearly 2.5 million puffins in total—and that’s not including the lonely eunuchs. It can be estimated that the total population in all of Iceland is double that number, making Iceland home to approxi mately 40% of the world’s population of puffins. The puffin population has been on a steady decline in the past decade or so, caused by the shortage of herring, the bird’s main food source. In 2005 or 2006, the herring population around Iceland was significantly lower than in previous years. Puffins are long-lived birds however, and smart, too. Gunnar explains that when the birds notice that the food in the ocean isn’t abundant, they decide not to hatch some of their eggs, to make sure that there’s enough food for those chicks already living. In other words, more herring equals more chicks, and vice versa. On the north and east coasts of Iceland, capelin has been the fish of choice for puffins. As the capelin population hasn’t declined the way the herring population has, the puffin colonies up
north and out east have sustained themselves better than the ones on the southern and western coasts.
Spring and summer is the only time After spending the autumn and winter out at the sea, the puffins return to land in late April to breed. They hatch their eggs (if they hatch at all) in June. While the egg is hatching and during the first few days of the new chick’s life, one parent always stays in their nest-hole, protecting their offspring. This is good news for those of us who’d like to see puffins, as we can be certain that at least one parent is on land while the other may be out at sea collecting fodder. The best time of year to see puffins is from spring (mid-late April) until the fall, as that’s the period when the birds return to land. Guided tours leave any time from 8:30 in the morning until mid-afternoon, but should you choose to go by yourself, you would likely be able to see puffins no matter what time it is— especially during high summer when the sun never sets in the land of the midnight sun. (see more on page 24)
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Where to see Puffins The Atlantic Puffin
Ísafjarðardjúp The island Vigur is the largest of three islands in the fjord, and a good place to see puffins.
Breiðafjörður
Borgarfjörður Eystri Large puffin colonies on the island of Hafnarhólmi, and the chance to get up-close-and-personal with the birds. There’s a special hideout viewing location near the harbour of the town which allows visitors to view a wide variety of unique bird species native to the area.
A shallow bay in the West of Iceland. A popular puffin spot is Borgarhólmi which you can reach by car and on foot.
South Coast
Kollafjörður in Faxaflói bay
Ingólfshöfði South of Öræfajökull glacier, Reynisfjall near Vík í Mýrdal, and Dyrhólaey (also en route to Vík) are puffin colonies on the South Coast.
Two islands, Akurey and Lunday are homes to hundreds of puffins. Only a short boat-ride from the city center.
Westman Islands An island and archipelago of approximately 5,000 people. Largest puffin colony in Iceland. You can either fly to the Island or take a ferry. Once you’re there, you are likely to need to get on a boat to get close to the birds, but if observing from far is your thing, the numbers of puffin will work in your favour.
Fáskrúðsfjörður The island of Skrúður is home to the biggest cave on the East Coast of Iceland, as well as a popular puffin colony. It is very possible to climb the island... unless you’re afraid of heights.
(see more on page 26)
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Enjoy your stay in a beautiful environment in Southern Iceland www.hotelselfoss.is / info@hotelselfoss.is / 480-2500
Restaurant
5 things to know about Puffins The Atlantic Puffin
A solitary life Puffins spend the majority of the year out at sea.
5 things to know about Puffins
The Atlantic Puffin, also known as the Common Puffin, is a species of sea-bird in the auk family that breeds in and around Iceland. This small, sturdy bird with the colourful beak goes under the name „Lundi“ in Icelandic and has i.e. become an emblem for the Westman Islands archipelago.
1 The puffin leads a solitary life when out at sea, where it bobs around all day long, propelling itself through the water with powerful thrusts of its feet – even while roosting. Its downy under-plum age provides necessary thermal insulation and its black and white body provides the ideal camou flage; Aerial predators are unable to spot the Puffin against the dark watery background while underwater ones fail to notice the bird as it blends perfectly in with the bright sky above. 2
Puffins spend the autumn and winter out at sea but return to land to breed in late spring.Iceland is the home to almost half of the the wold’s puffin population. However, over the past decade the puffin population has been in decline, possibly because of shifting fish population as ocean temperatures rise. 3 Puffins are usually monogamous and return to the same burrows year after year. Both parents
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The parents will leave their chick when it is around 40 days old. Hunger will drive the chick to leave its dwellings.
care for their young. The male spends most of his time guarding and maintaining the nest while the female incubates. 4 The Puffin lays only a single egg each spring. The chick spends most of its day inside its burrow, feeding mostly on small fish. When it becomes fully fledged, around 49 days old, it leaves its burrow and does not return to land for several years. 5 The parents will leave their chick when it is around 40 days old. Hunger will drive the chick to leave its dwell ings. It then will walk, run or flap its way out to sea where it will spend the next years. In the Westman Islands it is not uncommon to find confused chicks wandering the streets during that time of year. Locals will catch the chicks, feed them and then have them weighed and measured before releasing them.
sara@icelandmag.com
WHALE WATCHING AND OTHER WILDLIFE ADVENTURES FROM REYKJAVIK
PUFFIN EXPRESS WHALE WATCHING
Whale Watching Andrea: 09:00, 13:00, 17:00 Whale Watching Express: 10:00, 14:00
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AUG
09:00 10:00 13:00 14:00 17:00
SEP
OCT- MAR
13:00
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*From 15th May-15th September Price: Adults: 8.500 ISK / 53€ Children (7-15) 4.250 ISK / 26.5€ Children (0-6) FREE
PUFFIN EXPRESS*
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JUN
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JUL
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PRICE: Adults 5.000 ISK / 33 € Children (7-15) 2.500 ISK / 15.5 € Children (0-6) FREE *Daily until 20th August
SEA ANGLING
MAY JUN JUL AUG
17:00 17:00 17:00 17:00 PRICE: Adults 11.500 ISK / 72 € Children (7-15) 5.750 ISK / 36 € Children (0-6) FREE
DINNER CRUISE JUN-JUL-AUG EVERY FRIDAY AT 20:00
PRICE: Adults 15.900 ISK / 102 € Children (4-12) 11.925 ISK / 77 €
HOW TO BOOK? You can call us: +354 560 8800 Book online
www.specialtours.is info@specialtours.is or visit our ticket sale at the old harbour
All aboard for adventure!
Wake up before they ... Renovation in progress. Please arrive early for check-in to avoid long lines. Iceland is so popular right now that we have to double the capacity of the baggage handling system at the airport. Therefore, we advise everyone who has a flight from Keflavik International Airport to get an early start. Avoid long lines and have more time to enjoy our unique shops, restaurants and our tax- and duty-free prices. Check-in opens at 4:30 am. Scheduled morning buses from Reykjavik run from 4 am. Hotel pick-up at 3:30 am when pre-ordered.
Bring home good memories from Iceland! Keflavik International Airport is one of few airports worldwide that is both tax- and dutyfree, which can save you up to 50% off city prices.
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Design the creative director
Handmade from Local Materials Aaron Bullion, an Englishman who has lived in Iceland on and off for ten years, is the creative director behind Reykjavík Drapers Union, a small manufacturer of handmade, high quality goods. The design company was set up in 2013 and uses predominantly local materials, such as fabrics from the marine industry, for its products. Iceland Magazine visited Aaron in his workshop, which is situated in the middle of Skólavörðustígur street in central Reykjavík. Photo bY Björn Árnason
When did you move to Iceland? “The first time I came here was for a study trip. I was studying spatial design at the time, and our tutor was Icelandic, and she brought us here. I moved here for love soon after, but I decided to stay on after the break-up because by then Iceland had become home. I frequ ently go back to London but don’t really recognize the place that I left, whereas Iceland had become a place I was familiar with, so it was easy for me to stay.” Tell us more about the brand and your products: “Reykjavík Drapers Union was set up last year. It was really set up to
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manufacture quality carrier goods such as bags, card cases, purses, wallets, and so on. We intend to grow and eventually extend to other countries, but we want to keep the base here in Reykjavík. We’d like to manufacture the pro ducts where we sell them and use materials local to each district.” When did you open the workshop? “We opened our workshop last September and have been keeping a low profile. We wanted to know whether the public would respond to our products without any en couragement from advertising or social media and so on. And we’ve got the response we’d hoped for.”
How did you go from studying spatial design in London to design ing high quality bags in Reykjavík? “I was working on several housing projects here in 2009, but following the economic crash, work was very thin on the ground. I wanted to make a collection of shirts, so I
How diverse it is … and I like the idea of cooking for all sorts of people. What I dislike about my job? Food being brought back to the kitchen, I can’t stand when that happens.”
learned how to sew, and I carried on making things.” Do you like being located on Skóla vörðustígur? “I love it! It’s the heart of Reykja vík. The street, which is based around arts and crafts, is always busy but not too busy. New and valued shops are adding to the street dynamic, and there’s a con stant flow of people who are genu inely interested in local, handcrafted goods. And maybe I’m imagining it, but it always seems to be sunny here.”
sara@icelandmag.com
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L贸ndrangar basalt cliffs Carved out from softer surrounding rock formations by erosion. At 75 m (246 f) and 61 m (200 f) respectively. The name
of the lighthouse is Malarnesviti. Located on the south coast of Sn忙fellsnes peninsula.
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Best of the West
The less-traveled region of West Iceland is home to thriving fishing villages, key settings of the Sagas, the glistening white plains of Iceland’s second largest glacier, Langjökull, the much smaller but mysterious Snæfellsjökull glacier, Breiðafjörður bay, with its endless islands and skerries, and numerous other magnificent wonders of nature. Text by Agnes Valdimarsdóttir Photos by Vilhelm Gunnarsson
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Snæfellsjökull glacier This dormant volcano is one of Iceland´s most beloved mountains. It’s latest eruption was around 2300 years ago.
Snæfellsjökull National Park That glacier you can see at a distance of about 120 km from Reykjavik on a clear day? That’s Snæfellsjökull volcano. With an elevation of 1,446 meters (4,744 ft), it served as the magnificent setting of the world-famous, 19th-century novel, Journey to the Center of the Earth by Jules Verne. At Snæfellsjökull National Park you can book a snowmobiling trip on the glacier. You should also keep in mind that in the Park there’s an 8,000-yearold cave called Vatnshellir, where you can go 200 meters in and 35 meters below the earth’s surface, to experience amazing underground colours and lava formations.
At Snæfellsjökull National Park you can book a snowmobiling trip on the glacier. You should also keep in mind that in the Park there’s an 8,000-year-old cave called Vatnshellir.
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Hraunfossar waterfalls Subterranean water streams out of a lava field and fall into the Hvítá river.
Hraunfossar A series of short fresh-water falls, which tumble into the Hvítá river along an area approximately 1 kilometer (0.62 miles) in length. What makes these waterfalls different from others is the way they are formed. Subterranean water bubbles up and streams out over the lava field, then breaks up into rivulets that fall off the lava bed into the river.
Akranes Lighthouse. While it’s always spoken of as just one lighthouse, there are actually two equally magnificent lighthouses at Syðriflös in the town of Akranes, across Faxaflói bay from Reykjavík. The original lighthouse, built in 1918, is 10 meters (32.8 ft) tall and offers visitors an amazing view from the top. Between 1943 and 1944, another lighthouse was built, nearly double the height of the original one. The acoustics in the second lighthouse are spectacular, and concerts are hosted there on occasion. Both lighthouses are open to the public during the summer months. Eiríksstaðir farm The birthplace of Leifur Eiríksson, the first European to discover America.
Leif Eiríksson was a Norse explorer and the first European to land in North America, nearly 500 years before Christopher Columbus.
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Eiríksstaðir Leif Eiríksson was a Norse explorer and the first European to land in North America, nearly 500 years before Christopher Columbus. Evidence suggests that Leif was born at Eiríksstaðir, where ruins of a longhouse are still visible today, and a replica of the farmstead has been built just a few feet from the ruins for a real historical experience.
Welcome to the Settlement Centre in Borgarnes
SAGA EXHIBITIONS
RESTAURANT
GIFT SHOP
Brákarbraut 13-15 310 Borgarnes
Tel. 437 1600 www.landnamssetur.is
SMART GUIDE
Akranes
“The lost pearl of restaurants near Reykjavík”.
Galito restaurant offers a family friendly menu in a cozy environment. our mission is to use fresh ingredients and we offer everything from pizzas, hamburgers, sandwiches and vegegatrian food to fine dining. www.galito.is Stillholt 16-18, Akranes Phone: +354 430 6767 Iceland Mag / vol. #03 2014
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Flatey village There is only one road on the island.
Flatey The island Flatey is located in Breiðafjörður, the bay north of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, and is accessible by ferry from the town of Stykkishólmur (the ferry also goes up to the West Fjords). Inhabited mainly in the summer, the island is home to an old church that houses both the oldest and the smallest library in Iceland. The island has only one road, which leads from the ferry dock to the old village.
Arnarstapi. Arnarstapi is a small, picturesque fishing village on the southern coast of the Snæ fellsnes peninsula. Back in 1565, the Danish king’s ombudsmen stayed at Arnarstapi, but nowadays it’s mainly a vacation home for well-known professionals, ranging from lawyers to poets.
Deildartunguhver. This hot spring in Reykholtsdalur has the highest output volume of water in Europe, at 180 liters per second, at 97°C (206°F). Some of the water is used to heat homes and cottages in both Borgarnes and Akranes, 34 and 64 kilometers (21 and 40 miles) away, respectively. Mount Kirkjufell.
Glymur. The second tallest waterfall in Iceland runs from the second deepest lake in Iceland. It was considered the tallest waterfall in Iceland until 2011, when an unnamed waterfall on the edge of Morsárjökull glacier, in the south of Iceland, was discovered. Hiking up to Glymur waterfall must be done cautiously, and it is best to follow the path on the Southeast riverbank. The hike takes about two hours and is not recommended for those who are afraid of height.
Guðrúnarlaug Natural Pool. Guðrúnarlaug Pool is a reconstruction of what is considered to have been the oldest natural pool in Iceland. During the 18th century, a landslide ruined the original pool, which had been a popular bathing area because the waters were considered to have healing powers. The reconstruction was created to look as much like the original as possible, with an added changing area for those who wish to take a dip.
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Kirkjufell Kirkjufell is a beautifully strange mountain just west of Grundarfjörður fjord and town. While relatively experienced hikers can climb the mountain, stories have been told of men falling to their death from the top of the mountain. A hike around the base of the mountain is a better option, and takes approximately 3 hours.
Hiking up to Glymur waterfall must be done cautiously, and it is best to follow the path on the Southeast riverbank. The hike takes about two hours and is not recommended for those who are afraid of heights.
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West Iceland Locals Recommend
long walks on the beach
“The lighthouse is located in the oldest part of Akranes. The view from the top is simply magnificent.“
1 Favourite restaurant: “Galito. I´ve eaten there a few times, and the steak sandwich I ordered the last time there was delicious!” 2
Best place for a picnic:
“Garðalundur is a beautiful area covered with tall trees in the outskirts of the town, next to the golf course. You can have a nice picnic anywhere in the area, but there is also a place where peo ple can barbeque, which can be very convenient.”
F
Freyr Bjarnason.
reyr Bjarnason is a journalist and a former player with the top division soccer team FH, who grew up in the town of Akranes before moving “south” to the capital. For those visiting his hometown, he recommends a walk along the white sands of Langisandur beach, where one can enjoy a lovely ocean view or, for soccer lovers, catch a game with local team ÍA.
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3 Your favourite spot: “After my childhood home, I would say Langisand ur beach. Every time I visit Akranes, I feel the need to go for a walk across the sand, or take a run, and breathe in the fresh sea air. I have fond memories of Langisandur from my childhood. I used to play the game “Shell-king,” where the boy who had the strongest seashell won. I also practised soccer on Langisandur with the local club ÍA, but only when the tide was low. And one could only hope the ball wouldn´t go flying into the sea and drift away.”
The light house is located in the oldest part of Akranes and was built in 1918. Opened to the public a couple of years ago, and the view from the top is simply magnifi cent.
4 Mention three interesting things to see or do while in town: “The lighthouse is located in
the oldest part of Akranes and was built in 1918. It was opened to the public a couple of years ago, and the view from the top is simply magnificent. “If in town try not to miss a soccer game if local club ÍA is playing. Akranes is often referred to as a soccer town because of its great soccer tradition, and the atmosphere created in the stadium is wonderful during summertime. “In the Akranes Museum Centre, you will find Byggðasafnið í Görðum, an interesting museum where you can learn about the history of the fishing industry in Akranes.” 5 What’s the town’s most famous landmark? “It´s the moun
tain Akrafjall. It has been an inspiration to painters, singers, and photographers for as long as I remember. A beautiful mountain and I recommend a hike to the highest point, Geirmundartindur peak.”
Have fun in Akranes this summer ! Lots of things to do ! A SEASIDE TOWN IN WEST ICELAND
MA
RKE
T
Lively market atmosphere on Saturdays!
Akranes lighthouse open all summer! IRISH DAYS
Spend a day by the sea on Langisandur, Akranes’ own natural beach
Sea angling
The pool is open well into the evening all summer!
Aakll krinads nof fuens
Akrafjall, the natural treasure of Akranes!
–
Blacksmiths and exhibitions in the Museum Centre this summer!
Want to go shopping, go to the movies or out for dinner? Everything's possible in Akranes!
Great campsite and all amenities within walking distance!
Family picnics in Garðalundur - barbecue, frisbee-golf and a playground
One of Iceland's best golf courses is in Akranes!
Whale watching
Come golfing!
www.visitakranes.is / www.akranes.is
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West Iceland Locals Recommend
Where time does not exist an old grocery store near Fellsströnd, West Iceland – many farms in that area have been deserted over the past decades. The houses will be ready this summer, and the plan is to host various cultural events there in July and August.” 2 Elsa Sigurðardóttir. “The Snæfellsnes peninsula’s most famous landmark is the majestic Snæfellsjökull glacier, it seems to alter its shape depending on the viewer’s location. “
E
lsa Sigurðardóttir, a nurs ing student, has roots in Breiðafjörður bay and spent her childhood summers in the area. She says time seems to disappear when in Breiðafjörður – it’s a wonderland in which time does not exist. 1 What’s the best thing about Snæfellsnes peninsula: “The light and
the silence that surrounds you there. Time seems to disappear
there, and it’s the best feeling when you suddenly realize you haven’t looked at a clock all day long. I spend as much time there as possible during summer. My family owns an old farm in the area, called Hnúkur. My father grew up on the farm and lived there until 1974, and I used to spend all my summers there as a child. “For the last three summers my father and I have been renovating an old slaughterhouse, a fish-pro cessing plant, a freezing plant, and
WE’LL TAKE YOU THERE!
Favourite restaurant:
“Narfeyrarstofa in Stykkishólmur offers amazing food and service. The last time I dined there I had paddled all the way over the bay with my father and two friends, which probably played some part in the fact that the meal was one of the best I’ve ever had!” 3
Best place for a picnic:
“I recommend a nice picnic on the mountainside near Fells strönd. There you’ll have an amazing panoramic view over Breiðafjörður bay, which is dotted with countless little islands. Make sure you’re not pressed
for time, the view is so breath taking that you’ll have a hard time tearing yourself away from it.” 4 Your favourite spot in Breiðafjörður: “Anywhere
near the ocean, really. I can spend forever just gazing out onto the horizon, observing the ocean’s movements and the wildlife. My family owns a Zodiac and some kayaks, and one of my favourite pasttimes is paddling between the islands.” 5 What can one do in the area when traveling with children: “It’s all about getting
out of the car to explore. My daughters love Eiríksstaðir Heritage Museum in Haukadalur valley, West Iceland. The museum is built around old house ruins from the Viking era and is dedicated to the life and adventures of the Viking Eric the Red.”
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The Wonders of Snæfellsnes
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An Exhibition Dedicated to the Economic Life While visiting Bifröst University we offer you to drop by at; Icelanders at WorkValue for all, a new exhibition dedicated to the vibrant economic life in Iceland. The exhibition gives an insight into the day-today business of companies from all sectors where employees and business leaders alike share their stories and vision for the future. Just drop in at Hotel Bifröst and enter the exhibition from there. Admission is free and most of the exhibition´s material is available in English. Afterwards you can enjoy some refreshments at our delightful restaurant, which emphasizes on using local materials, and soak in the beautiful surroundings. At Bifröst The hotel is located in West Iceland.
Bifröst University is located in the valley of Norðurárdalur, approximately 30 kilometers north of Borgarnes. For more information about the exhibition, opening hours and service in Bifröst, see: www.bifrost.is and www.hotelbifrost.is. We look forward to seeing you there!
Heart of the West Things to see, things to do Hótel Bifröst is located close to highway 1 in Borgarfjörður, just over an hours drive from Reykjavík. Borgarfjörður is noted for its diverse beauty and fascinating history as the setting for some of the most famous Icelandic Sagas. Ideal for easy hiking in the beautiful lava landscape, cycling or fishing.
Welcome to Hotel Bifröst, a comfortable 50 room, campus hotel, located in the heart of historic Borgarfjordur. Ideal for individual and family retreat, in close vicinity to many of Iceland’s geothermal and glacial natural wonders. » 50 rooms » Free WiFi » Satellite TV » Local food » Hiking
• • • •
Fitness facilities room, Sauna and hot tubs Hobby room with pool-table and ping pong Soccer and basketball fields Nine-hole golf-course Glanni, one of the most scenic courses in Iceland • Café Bifröst restaurant, open every day • Fully equipped meeting facilities • Supermarket
Hotel Bifröst 311 Borgarnes Tel: +354 433 3030 Fax: +354 433 3001 hotel@bifrost.is www.hotelbifrost.is
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West Iceland Locals Recommend
Full of adventures waiting to happen
H
jalti Sverrisson is the hotel manager at Hótel Hellnar on the west ernmost tip of the Snæfellsnes peninsula. He enjoys backcountry snowboarding on the Snæfellsjökull glacier. The glacier became world famous due to the novel “Journey to the Centre of the Earth” by the 19thcentury French writer Jules Verne, in which the protagonists find the entrance to the centre of the earth on Snæfellsjökull glacier. 1 The best thing about Snæfellsnes: “Snæfellsjökull
glacier! There are numerous hiking and ski routes on the glacier and the view from the top is absolutely breathtaking. Personally, I love to go back country snowboarding on the
glacier and the route down is fantastic for snowboarding. Snæfellsjökull Glacier Tours also offer great tours to the top with pisten bullies.” 2 Three interesting things one should not miss: “Visit
Snæfellsjökull glacier either by foot or with a pisten bully. One can also hike around the base of the glacier and visit Sönghellir (The Singing Cave) on your way.” “The town of Stykkishólmur is a charming old fishing village, which is well worth a visit. The movie The Secret Life of Walter Mitty was partially filmed in Stykkishólmur.” “Lastly, I’d recommend a boat trip around the Breiðafjörður bay. It is truly one of the most beauti ful places in Iceland.”
The stone sculpture Bárður Snæfellsás at Arnarstapi is by Ragnar Kjartansson. Bárður, a character from the Sagas, was half human and half giant.
3 What can one do in the area when traveling with children: “There are so many
activities in the area that one can do with children. I recommend the charming swimming pool in Lýsuhóll, just before you arrive at Hótel Búðir. The pool is filled with natural hot mineral water. Visit the Volcano Museum in Stykkishólmur or go whalewatching in Grundarfjörður. A walk between Hellnar and
Arnarstapi is also full of adventures just waiting to happen.” 4 Describe the perfect Sunday drive around the area: “The drive from Hellnar
to Stykkishólmur is enchanting – the route is dotted with abandon ed farmhouses, lava fields, and amazing fjords. On a clear day, one can see all the way over to the Westfjords.”
Food and drinks for every mood. * Burgers * Steaks * Pizza * Salad * Sandwiches * Seafood...... and much more
Kirkjubraut 11 / Akraness / s: 431-4343 / www.gamlakaupfelagid.is 44
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FERRY
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Sæferðir - Smiðjustíg 3 - Stykkishólmur - Snæfellsnes
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West Iceland
A Library of Water.
A Notorious Treat
Visit stars of Game of Thrones
Snowmobiling
When visiting the small but great shark museum at Bjarnarhöfn farm you can taste one of Iceland’s most notorious treats: cured shark meat, prepared by the museum owners. It is sometimes compared to a stinky French cheese. We say that rings not far off, if the cheese properly riped and matured.
A Library of Water The first of its kind in Iceland, Stykkishólmur town is the home to the Library of Water conceived by American artist Roni Horn. It houses three collections: water, words, and weather reports. The library is housed in a building that stands on a promontory overlooking the ocean and the town.
www.bjarnarhofn.is
www.libraryofwater.is
Glymur waterfall The 3-4-hour hike (round trip) to Iceland’s highest waterfall is quite difficult and not for those who are afraid of heights as part of beautiful trail passes along steep cliffs. Glymur waterfall cascades 198 meters (650 f) in the bottom of a narrow canyon and is a rewarding sight indeed after the daunting walk. ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLU 63788 04/13
A Notorious Treat
Glymur waterfall
Visit stars of Game of Thrones
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Snowmobiling Glaciers cover about 11% of Iceland. Two of them are in West Iceland, the small but pictur esque Snæfellsjökull and Langjökull, Iceland’s second largest glacier. You can go snowmo biling on both. The sprawling Langjökull is particularly well fitted for longer tours. Several companies offers snowmobile trips on the glaciers, suited to every skill and ambition level.
Photos/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
Iceland’s landscape has played a large part in two seasons of Game of Thrones. In episode 6 of season 4, viewers watched in horror as a dragon attacked a herd of goats. The scene was filmed near Þórufoss waterfall in Mosfellsdalur valley which is a thirty minute drive from Reykjavík. The goats are from Háafell farm in Borgarfjörður region, West Iceland which is the only goat farm of the country, preserving a stock descending from animals that the Vikings brought with them more than 1100 years ago. According to Jóhanna Bergmann, the goat farmer no goats were harmed during the filming. “I enjoyed how much time they got on screen. The one who got the most screen time is named Gná.” The farm is open for visitors.
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Iceland Magazine Explains ask@icelandmag.com
T
here are no polar bears or penguins to be found in Iceland. Icelandic wild-life includes the Arctic fox, mink, mice, rats, rabbits and reindeer. However polar bears do occasio nally drift on icebergs from Greenland to Iceland. Two polar bears came ashore in June 2008. The animals were considered a threat to local livestock and humans and were therefore killed.
What are the most common names in Iceland? The most common names in Iceland are old, traditional names such as Guðrún, Anna, and Kristín for women, and Jón, Sigurður, and Guðmundur for men. The most fashionable baby names last year had a more international ring to them, namely Emilía for girls and Aron for boys.
Iceland Mag explains
Do Icelanders have family names?
Photos/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
There are no polar bears in Iceland but we have Arctic foxes like these two young ones.
Are there penguins and polar-bears in Iceland?
Some family names are found in Iceland, most are inherited from parents of foreign origin, while others were adopted. However, most Icelandic surnames follow the old Nordic tradition of patronymic and/or matronymic names. Children take the given name of their father and/or mother with the suffix “son” in the case of a male and “dóttir” in the case of a female. Jón has two children, a son and a daugther. Their respective surnames are Jónsson (son of Jón) and Jónsdóttir (daughter of Jón). In some cases children are named after their mother or even both parents.
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Iceland Magazine explains ask@icelandmag.com
Auroral Borealis Only to be witnessed during the winter. In the summer the midnight sun is ruling.
Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
Is it possible to see the Northern Lights in the summer?
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For the Aurora Borealis to be seen conditions have to be ideal, i.e. a dark but clear sky. Typically the Aurora appears either as a diffuse glow or as “curtains” of light that evolve and change constantly. The phenomenon occurs in Iceland all year around, given that the Auroral zone is situated above the country, however it can only be seen between the months of September and May because of the bright summer nights.
What do you want to know about Iceland? Pick the brains of our experts and send us your questions.
ask@icelandmag.com
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The Gateway to Iceland
Avoid delays by using online check-in The baggage handling system at Keflavik Airport is being reconstructed.
Check-in desks will open 30 minutes earlier than usual until the renovations are completed.
W
ith the number of people traveling through Keflavik Air port constantly increasing, travelers are advised to arrive early for check-in and to take advantage of the ability to check in online, to avoid the long queues at check-in desks in the departure hall. The baggage handling system at Keflavik Airport is under construction. The project, which began in early March this year, is expected to take a few months, but the check-in desks will be reopened in stages. The first few desks will be opened this week, another few at the beginning of June, and things are expected to be back to normal by the end of July this year.
The aim of the project is to double the capacity of the whole system, leading to increased effi ciency and faster services at the air port. However, in order for things to improve, they need to be slowed down temporarily, so a number of the check-in service desks will close down in the process. In order to compensate for the slower
procedures, buses from Reykjavik to the airport will leave 30 minutes earlier than usual, and the check-in desks will open 30 minutes earlier as well. Again, passengers are advised to use online check-in or the self-service check-in kiosks to avoid starting their travel in a long queue.
WIFI Keflavik Airport has recently upgraded their WiFi service and will now be offering high-speed WiFi Internet throughout the airport terminal. Whilst passengers have been able to log-on in the past, the connection was instable and at times unavailable. A new connection has made that a problem of the past, and every traveller should now be able to log onto the free WiFi without any hassle.
Flybe offers yearround flights to Iceland UK airline Flybe has announc ed it will be making regular year-round flights to Iceland from Birmingham, starting at the end of June, with scheduled flights three times a week. Birmingham is the second largest city in Britain and offers easy access to London, Scotland, and mainland Europe. Flybe’s main goals are to be the promptest airline in Europe, having recently adopted “60:60 insurance.” The 60:60 promise entitles all passengers traveling with the airline to receive a GBP 60 credit toward their next plane ticket with the airline, if Flybe is responsible for a delay lasting 60 minutes or longer—the only catch being that the ticket must be booked within 60 days. Flybe is the largest regional airline in Europe. Ten other airlines offer scheduled flights to and from Iceland this summer.
Special Offers on Local Goods Passengers travelling through Keflavík International Airport can enjoy various special offers on popular products and refresh ments available at the airport. Among those are local designs and handcrafted products All the offers are listed in Keflavík Airport’s new brochure as well as online. www.kefairport.is/English/ ShopsRestaurants/
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My Neighbourhood – Litli Skerjafjörður
A small village in central Reykjavík Hrefna Rósa Jóhannsdóttir Sætran lives with her husband and two kids in the Little Skerjafjörður neighbourhood in central Reykjavík. During the second World War, the neighbourhood was split in two when the domestic airport was constructed by the British. The southern part is now called Einarsnes, also known as Larger Skerjafjörður.
Hrefna Sætran, chef and restaurant owner, recommends a walk through her village-like neighbourhood, which is full of beautiful and colourful old houses.
Name and occupation: Hrefna Rósa Sætran, chef and restaurant owner.
living in a small village out in the country. Our neighbours are also fantastic, we have a great relationship with all of them, and everyone is extremely friendly.”
Spouse: Björn Árnason, photo grapher. Children and/or other family members: “Two children, Bertram Skuggi and Hrafnhildur Skugga, and two cats. Our family is very gender equal.”
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Where do you live? “In Skerjafjörður.” How long have you lived in the neighbourhood? “We have lived here for three years now.” What’s the best thing about your neighbourhood? “The best thing about our neighbour hood is how calm it is. It’s almost like
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What is a must-see or do in your neighbourhood? The neighbourhood is full of beautiful and colourful old houses. I recommend taking a stroll around the area to admire all the little houses.
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The neighbourhood is within walking distance of the seafront. It only takes you five minutes to walk to Ægisíða, and from there you have a lovely view of the mountain Keilir.
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The Nordic House is also near by. There you can enjoy art exhibitions and a nice cup of coffee.
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The best thing about our neigh bourhood is how calm it is. It’s almost like living in a small village out in the country.”
Photo/Björn Árnason
My favourite place is probably our back garden during summer time. But that’s private and only for us to enjoy.
Hrefna visits the Nordic House, designed by Finnish architect Alvar Aalto, for art exhibitions and a cup of coffee.
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