Cocktail Bars Souvenirs Guide Dance Festival vol.
07 2014
T r av e l · N at u r e · n e w s · P e o p l e · C u lt u r e
Yo ur
P 8 P 26 P 42
FR E
Ec op y
Capital Love p.48
28 Reasons to Love Living in Reykjavíke
+
The Remote Westfjords P 30 Surfing in Iceland P 36
Ic e l a n d M ag . c o m You r s ou r c e f or da i ly n e w s f r om Ic e l a n d, l o c a l t i p s a n d e x p e rt i s e
South Coast, Waterfalls and Glacier Hike Departure: 08:30 Duration: 11 hours Price: 20.900 ISK
Landmannalaugar by bus Departure: 08:30 Duration: 12 hours Price: 19.500 ISK
Golden Circle Departure: 08:30, 10:30, 13:00, 16:15 & 19:00 Duration: 5 - 8.5 hours Price from: 8.000 ISK
Combination tours for those who want to make the most of their day City Sightseeing & Golden Circle Afternoon Departure: 09:00 Duration: 10 hours Price: 13.000 ISK
The Blue Lagoon & Golden Circle Afternoon Departure: 09:00 Duration: 10 hours Price: 12.500 ISK
City Sightseeing & The Blue Lagoon Departure: 09:00 Duration: Flexible Price: 8.000 ISK
C
•
•
2
I
www.grayline.is
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
iceland@grayline.is
+354 540 1313
Whale Watching Departure: Various Duration: 3 hours Price: 9.000 ISK
South Coast & Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon Departure: 08:00 Duration: 14 hours Price: 24.900 ISK
Taste the Saga Departure: 17:30 Duration: 1.5 - 2 hours Price: 5.200 ISK
The Blue Lagoon Departure: Various Duration: Flexible Price: 3.700 ISK Entrance fee can be bought seperatly according to Blue Lagoon price list.
Book your tour now! Contact information – 24 hour booking service • Book now at www.grayline.is or call +354 540 1313 • Bus Terminal, Hafnarstræti 20, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
3
Contents from the editor
48
Jón Kaldal jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com
Shaken & Stirred
30
42
L
iving in Iceland means close encounters with the forces of nature. Extreme darkness during the winter, relentless daylight during the summer, horizontal rain, high-speed wind, and massive snowstorms; check. And this is only what to expect above the ground. When these words were being written, close to 2,000 earth quakes had been detected in the preceding 48 hours at Bárðar bunga volcano in Vatnajökull glacier by the Icelandic Meteoro logical Office. Maybe the volcano will have already blown its top off when this magazine hits the street. Or maybe not. A series of earth quakes like those are a sign of magma on the move below the surface and a possible imminent eruption. Scientists and civil protection authorities tend to tread extra cautiously and pay close attention when Bárðarbunga stirs. This is Iceland’s largest volcanic system, close to 200 kilometers (120 miles) long and up to 25 kilometers (16 miles) wide. The most lava, by volume and area, to flow in one eruption on earth in the past 11,700 years came from this volcanic system, about 8,500 years ago. So this is one humongous beast. Like so many other volcanoes, Bárðarbunga is located in Vatnajökull glacier. Being in the northern part of the ice cap it is thankfully just as far as you can get from human habitation in Iceland, and therefore no town is in danger. If (or actually when) the volcano erupts, some bridges and roads in the central highlands will be swept away by enormous glacial floods. Of more concern are the constructions of the National Power Company of Iceland in the central highlands. A large eruption will result in bursting flooded rivers and a huge lava flow that could seriously damage the power production of the country. There is a longstanding myth that the Vikings who settled Iceland had a relaxed attitude towards volcanoes and eruptions. However, according to a recent Danish study, several passages in the description of Ragnarök, the end of the world as told in the old Viking poem Völuspá, are indeed symbolic of the different phases of a volcanic eruption. Now we know that a huge eruption might not spell the end of the world, but it could have a huge effect on life in Iceland and the neighboring countries in Europe—no melodrama intended.
36 Contents 6-18 Lookout 6 Rocking the Right Note 8 Great Cocktail Bars 10 Farmer’s Markets in Reykjavík 12 Heimaey Island’s Viking Church 14-18 Festival of Lights, The Akureyri Wake, Triathlon in the Westfjords, Reykjavík International Film Festival, and More Highlights Ahead
IcelandMag.com Published by Imag ehf. Editor Jón Kaldal, jon.kaldal@icelandmag.com Advertising sales: Benedikt Freyr Jónsson benni@icelandmag.com Contributing writers and photographers: Sara McMahon, Matt Eliason, Marvin Dupree, Vilhelm Gunnarsson, Agnes Valdimarsdóttir, Valli, Gunnar V. Andrésson, Pjetur Sigurðsson and Stefán Karlsson Layout: Ivan Burkni On the Cover: The landscape sculpture þúfa, at the old Reykjavík harbor. . See feature p. 48. Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson Printed by Ísafold. Distribution by Póstdreifing. Distributed free around Iceland and in the capital area. Talk to us: hello@icelandmag.com
4
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
Iceland Magazine is printed on a Nordic ecolabelled printing paper that fulfils strict environmental requirements. Nordic Ecolabel is the official Ecolabel of the Nordic countries.
20 A Humble Little Bistro 22 The Style on the Street Iceland Magazine’s photographer went out and about town and shot a few local stylistas in an attempt to capture Iceland’s true street style. 26 Finding the Right Gift A list of noteworthy Icelandic souvenirs that are truly authentic and actually practical, to show your loved ones that you care. 30 The Wild West With its endless fjords and coves, the Westfjords is not an area for fast traveling. It forces you to slow down the pace and savor the breathtaking scenery of the sub-Arctic landscape. 36 Surfing at the Edge of the World Surfing is not only chilling out in the sun in the warmer climates. Photos from Nixon Surf Challenge’s visit to Iceland last year. 42 One Becomes Four The Reykjavík Dance Festival has grown into an exciting annual art event, including workshops, forums, and parties. 48 28 Reasons To Love Reykjavík The midnight sun, the Northern Lights, the downtown cats, the majestic mountain view, the swimming pools, the mismatched architecture, and more… 62 In the Footsteps of the Saga Heroes Visit the great Saga Center in the town of Hvolsvöllur and then saddle up and ride to the scenes where the dramatic events of the Sagas unfolded. 66 Iceland Magazine Explains Where to buy vacuum-packed cured shark, filming with drones, and learning about Iceland’s green energy. 70 My Neighborhood
SOUVENIR SHOP SHOP OF THE YEAR 2012
The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri e:info@theviking.is
Akureyri Reykjavík
www.theviking.is TAX FREE Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
5
Lookout Frosti’s Rock Concert
Frosti and pals Smutty Smiff, the organizer of the event, and musician Daníel Ágúst from GusGus with Frosti. Photo/Lárus Jónsson
Rocking the Right Note
T
he hero of the night is Frosti Jay Free man, a seven-year-old boy who was diagnosed with an extremely rare genetic condition called ataxia telan giectasia. Frosti is only the third Icelander to be diagnosed with the disease, which causes severe disabilities of the nervous and immune systems. All proceeds from the concert as well as an accompanying art auction will go towards the expensive medical care required to treat the young boy and maintain his quality of life. Smutty Smith, the organizer of the event, was an original member of Levi and the Rockats. Smutty is now a radio DJ at X-ið 97.7 here in Iceland and still plays with his rockabilly house band. Smutty first learned of Frosti’s story when Frosti was in Smith’s son’s class at school. After learning of the boy’s rare condition, Smutty felt
6
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
the desire to use his musical connections to fundraise for the cause. After weeks of prepar ation, Smutty was able to put together a very impressive line-up of Icelandic rock stars to play the event. The night should be a memor able occasion with lots of good vibes and funds raised in support of Frosti. So far, bands that are confirmed for the event are Bubbi Morthens, Daniel Áugúst, Dimma, Helgi Björns, Pollapönk, Krummi, Kontinuum, Pétur Ben, and Smutty Smith and his rocka billy house band. The concert will take place at Háskólabíó, and doors will open for the event at 4 pm, with the music starting at 5 pm. The cost of the event is 2,900 ISK, and you can purchase your ticket today on midi.is.
Hönnun: adalheiduro@simnet.is
Everyone loves a rock concert. The only thing better is a “rock concert for a great cause,” and that is exactly what is happening on September 7th, 2014. Rokktónleikar Frosta or Frosti’s Rock Concert is a star-studded rock event that will raise money for Frosti Jay Freeman, a young boy suffering from a rare genetic condition.
David Bowie photo by Mick Rock In addition to the concert, money will also be raised for Frosti through an art auction, featuring some amazing photos from rock ‘n’ roll history. Attendees will have the chance to bid on iconic shots of classic artists such as David Bowie, Queen, Blondie, and many others. All proceeds raised from the auction, like the rock concert, will benefit Frosti and his family. This is a one-of-kind chance to take home a piece of rock ‘n’ roll history, so don’t miss out!
A GEOTHERMAL ENERGY EXHIBITION
WORTH A VISIT
Stop by the Hellisheiði Geothermal Power Plant and see how they harness the geothermal energy. Experienced guides are on-hand to provide informative presentations backed by multimedia shows about sustainable green energy as a global energy source and the geology of Iceland. Origin of the Geothermal energy – The production process – An illustrated guide to Hellisheiði – The earth core Exclusive collection of minerals and stones. An excellent hiking and outdoor destination - we provide information on hiking around the Hengill area. Enjoy our coffee shop and browse through a selection of educational material in the souvenires corner.
Hönnun: adalheiduro@simnet.is
Open daily from 9:00 – 17:00. We are about 20 minutes drive from Reykjavík on Route 1 towards Hveragerði.
More information: www.orkusyn.is Tel + 354 412 5800 e-mail: orkusyn@orkusyn.is Gps 64°02”248’- 21°24”079´
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
7
Lookout bars in Reykjavík
7 colourful cocktail bars in Reykjavík Icelanders absolutely love their beer (and understandably so—it was made legal only a short 25 years ago), but recently they have begun to acquire a taste for colourful and tasty cocktails. While all bars in Reykjavík serve beer, only a handful can boast a proper cocktail menu. Here are a few: observe the chefs at work, while in the basement you have the restaurant bar and a large dining area. Crowd: Young, old, local and international. A little tip: Their Patrón Sour is absolutely delicious.
1 Snaps
Down by the harbour Slippbarinn is situated in the Marina Hotel and overlooks Reykjavík harbour. It’s a popular place for aperitifs and easily accommodates large groups.
1 Loftið Loftið opened for business in the beginning of 2013 and is popular among people in their 30’s and 40’s. The space used to be a clothing store up until the year 1996, and its current styling bears the mark of that, decorated with mannequins and sewing reels. Loftið specializes in colourful cocktails, which do not come cheap, so be prepared to splurge a little. Crowd: An older crowd with money and a thirst for cocktails. A little tip: This is one of few bars in Reykjavík that require guests to dress up.
1 Slippbarinn Slippbarinn is situated in the Marina Hotel and overlooks the harbor. It´s a popular place for aperitifs and easily accommodates large groups. When it comes to
8
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
the décor, it’s obvious that Scandinavian design was the inspiration for the bar area; simple yet colourful and functional. Crowd: Local and international. A little tip: Arrive early and enjoy their happy-hour prices.
1 Hverfisgata 12 Hverfisgata 12 is an intimate cocktail bar located within a new and trendy pizzeria of the same name. The restaurant boasts a rather large and juicy cocktail menu that is sure to quench one’s thirst. Crowd: Hipsters mostly. A little tip: The restaurant is easy to miss—it’s located on the corner across the street from 101 Hotel.
1 101 101 is a hotel bar located inside the 101 Hotel in downtown
Photo/Icelandair Hotels
Reykjavík. The fashionable spot attracts businessmen and other well-to-do people who enjoy the chic and modern settings and delicious cocktails. Crowd: Wealthy locals and hotel guests. A little tip: The bar features a cosy fireplace making it the perfect spot for a winter visit.
1 The Grill Market The Grill Market is one of Reykja vík’s most popular and trendy restaurants. Scrumptious Asianinspired food, tasty cocktails, and fashionable décor (the walls are decorated with columnar basalt, moss, and skin of spotted wolf fish) made The Grill Market an instant yet constant hit among locals. The restaurant is on two floors; on the ground floor, you have an open kitchen where guests can
Snaps Restaurant is a rather new addition to the city’s restaurant flora but quickly became one of Reykjavík’s most popular eateries. The atmosphere in Snaps is relaxed and friendly, and the music is loud enough to have you shimmying in your seat, yet never prevents you from enjoying pleasant conversation. The restaurant has a good selection of tasty cocktails to choose from. Crowd: Locals galore! A little tip: The place is usually packed, so you might want to arrive early.
1 Lebowski Bar Lebowski Bar is conveniently located in the middle of Laugavegur shopping street. As the name suggests the bar’s décor is heavily inspired by the cult film, “The Big Lebowski,” and its main character, The Dude. At the back of the bar, an American diner serves affordable and tasty burgers. Crowd: Mostly foreign tourists and local football fans. A little tip: Obviously, you’ll have to order a White Russian in here.
www.n1.is
facebook.com/enneinn ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS ENN 69139 05/14
Tank up at N1 on your way around Iceland
The points indicate where you’ll find N1 service stations around Iceland
Complimentary
Wi-Fi at selected N1 service stations
N1 is a network of service stations, located all around Iceland. There you can find anything you might need for the road, both fuel, food and entertainment. Our mission is to offer excellent services to anyone on the road. At selected N1 service stations, travelers enjoy complimentary Wi-Fi – perfect to share those travel memories in real time. At the largest service stations, you can either tank up yourself or rely on our swift service, shop for essentials, entertainment and snacks or just take a well-deserved break over a cup of coffee.
Let´s go!
Tank up your car at N1 and fuel your body and soul at the same time. Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
9
Lookout
Photos/Valli
Frú Lauga
Fresh from the farm You will find organic Icelandic products as well as selected products from abroad in Frú Lauga.
Farmer´s Market in Reykjavik Frú Lauga has food that is good for you.
W
ith more and more people choosing to rent apartments in Reykjavík rather than stay at hotels, it’s nice to figure out where to shop. While grocery stores will have everything any home needs, stores like Frú Lauga will give you the freshest produce you can find in the city—and it’s all organic. The owners of Frú Lauga focus on working closely with farmers, fishermen, bakers, and others in an attempt to find good food that’s good for you. While most of the food is grown locally in Iceland, the owners also import a few goodies from Italy. It’s a farmer’s market named after the owners’ grandmothers, who all bore the name Lauga—one of whom is still alive today!
Frú Lauga has two stores in Reykjavík, one downtown at Óðinsgata 1, 101 RVK, and the second one in Laugardalur at Laugalækur 6, 104 RVK. See more at frulauga.is
All you need in one place • Skólavör›ustígur 19 tel.: (+354) 552 1890 SWEATERS AND SOUVENIERS, NO KNITTING MATERIAL:
• Radisson Blu, Hótel SAGA tel.: (+354) 562 4788
10
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
• Laugavegur 53b tel.: (+354) 562 1890 www.handknit.is
E&Co.
ICELANDIC WOOL
WORN OUT FOR CENTURIES We offer clot h i n g & ot her mer c h a nd i s e t h at r em i nd s u s of go o d old Ic el a nd
– Visit our stores: 101 Reykjavík, Akureyri and Haukadal. www.geysir.com –
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014 – Visit our stores: 101 Reyk jav í k , A k u rey r i a nd G eysi r, Hau k ada l. w w w.geysi r.com –
I
11
12
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
Rooted in History Photo by Vilhelm Gunnarsson Although the beautiful stave church on the island of Heimaey in the Westman Islands is not as old as you might think, its roots go deep in history. It was built and consecrated in the year 2000, and presented to the Icelandic nation by Norway in commemoration of the thousand-year anniversary of Iceland’s conversion to Christianity, and contains a replica of the Norwegian medieval altarpiece of Saint Olav. The architecture and the building methods are from the period just after the close of the Viking Age in the 1100 and 1200’s, the church being a replica of the Norwegian Haltdalen stave church, which was built around 1170. The location is called Skansinn and is a part of the harbor of the town of Vestmannaeyjabær on Heimaey, the largest and only inhabited island of the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago. It’s located on land that was formed in the huge 1973 eruption, as were the black walls of lava right behind it. The 15 islands and about 30 skerries of the Westman archipelago lie off the south coast of Iceland, along a linear volcanic system. The islands have been formed by eruptions over the past 10,000 to 12,000 years, one of which was the 1973 eruption of the volcano Eldfell, right in the middle of the town of Vestmannaeyjabær, another being the infamous eruption of Eyjafjallajökull in 2010. The ferry ride to Heimaey island is only 30 minutes from Landeyjarhöfn harbor. It’s a visit you should not miss. - JK
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
13
Lookout highlights ahead
The Akureyri Wake
Photo/Guðmundur Ágústsson
The town of Akureyri in North Iceland celebrates its anniversary on the last weekend of August. Kicking off on Friday, August 29th, the weekend is jam-packed with activities throughout the days and evenings. The schedule of events is available at www.visitakureyri.is
Triathlon in the Westfjords Ready, set, go! On September 6th, teams and individuals alike will participate in the Westfjords triathlon, starting off with a 700-meter swim in Bolungarvík town, followed by a 15-km bike ride over to the town of Ísafjörður, where the athletes will get off their bikes and finish the trial with a 7-km run. The triathlon is open for teams and individuals aged 13 and over.
Hetja (Hero) is a one-man show based on the saga of Bárður Snæfellsás and his family of humans, trolls, and vultures. The show is a comedy that aims to use all the dramatic possibilities of the theatrical form to avoid bringing the basic element of storytelling into it. Hetja is now being shown at Rif in Snæfellsbær. For tickets, contact frystiklefinn@gmail.com
A Geology Symposium Breiðdalssetur, the Cultural Center of the people of Breiðdalsvík in East Iceland, will be holding a symposium about the geology of Iceland, in commemoration of the British geologist, George P.L. Walker. The symposium will take place over the course of two days, August 30th and 31st. Saturday’s program will be composed of lectures, while on Sunday, scenic tours in Berufjörður fjord and Breiðdalur valley will be offered. For more information, visit www.breiddalssetur.is.
Photo/Hilmar Bragi Bárðarson
To register, contact vestri@swim.is.
I Need a Hero
Three-day festival It’s a packed program with concerts, street theater, a parade, food, and fireworks.
FESTIVAL OF LIGHT The first weekend in September, every year, the township of Reykjanesbær hosts a family cultural festival titled the Festival of Light (Ljósanótt).
T
he name comes from a light installation on the rocks by the ocean, an artwork that was a gift from Reykjanesbær to Reykja vík, which was designated the city of culture in the year 2000. The highlight of the festival each year, now being celebrated for the 15th consecutive year, is when the oceanside rocks are lit up, followed by a magnificent fireworks show. The people of Reykjanesbær are active participants in making the festival into what it is today, and the number of cultural events included in Ljósanótt increases year by year. The festival focuses on keeping
14
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
up a good tempo in its schedule, and while the main event is on the Saturday evening (September 6th this year), there should be something to suit everyone’s interest from Thursday until Sunday (Sept. 4th—7th). Both on Friday and Saturday nights there are big concerts with a number of bands and musicians performing for guests. And since Reykjanesbær is known as the “town of rock ‘n’ roll” in Iceland, it’s guaranteed that the music will be good. They have a reputation to uphold! Among the events to explore are art shows across town, street theatre, traditional Icelandic meat soup for sale, and a showcase of vintage cars. Our favourite part of the festival, however, is the cohort parade. As the name suggests, people gather into groups based on their birth year and parade through town holding a sign representing their year. It’s a quaint little thing that probably couldn’t be done anywhere else, especially since, by the looks of it, everyone participates. Check out www.ljosanott.is for more information on the Festival of Light.
Summer market at Harpa Búrið, or ‘The Pantry’ is a gourmet cheese store in Reykjavik. On August 30th and 31st, the store will be hosting a summer market at Harpa Concert and Conference Center from 11am-5pm both days. Music will be playing, food will be available, and entry is free of charge.
http://blog.burid.is/english
Lookout highlights ahead
LET’S DANCE The University of Iceland hosts weekly dance nights free of charge.
Do your best You can expect salsa, swing, rock ’n’ roll, boogie-woogie, Lindy hop, West Coast swing, and Argentine tango on the open dance nights. Photo/Háskóladansinn
S
ummers in Reykjavík are special in the sense that many of those who live in the city aren’t around much for the summer. Students leave the city for beaches in foreign countries or families and friends in other parts of Iceland. People with full-time jobs take their 4-week vacation and get out of the city so they can unplug from daily life. This also means that social activities that are booming in the winter become dormant in the summer. But with September just around the corner, it’s time to put on those dancing shoes! The University of Iceland hosts weekly dance nights for salsa, swing, rock ’n’ roll, boogie-woogie, Lindy hop, West Coast swing, and Argentine tango—free of charge, and open to anyone who enjoys dancing, no matter if you’re a beginner or an advanced dancer. The where and when can be found on Facebook: www.facebook.com/haskoladansinn.
C100 M60 Y0 K30
Pantone Coated 281
S 16
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
Sumar
e t r a C a l A erlunni P í te r a C la A og 4ra rétta seðill
Gjafabréf Perlunnar N LAX SITRUS GRAFIN dillsorbet. s og
uki, blómkálskúskú
með blómkálsma
HUMARSÚPA
m humarhölum.
deira og grilluðu
Ma Rjómalöguð með
OG HÆGELDAÐ ljáa. GU, LÉTTSTEIKT su og lambasoðg res ap LAMB Á TVO VE pp ljurót, kartöflusve
með heslihnetum,
se
*** eða ***
S FISKUR DAGSINu sinni
n hverj ferskasti fiskurin nnar. lumönnum Perlu iðs tre ma af r rðu útfæ
TVEGGJALAGA
SÚKKULAÐIMÚS
su og með hindberjasó
M60 Y0 K30
Coated 281
Veitingahúsið Perlan Sími: 562 0200 · Fax: 562 0207 Netfang: perlan@perlan.is Vefur: www.perlan.is
Góð gjöf við öll tækifæri!
limejógúrtís.
Til Haming ju!
Við
Við óskum Stefáni Elí Stefánssyni, yfirmatreiðslumanni Perlunnar innilega til hamingju með að hafa unnið matreiðslukeppnina Bragð Frakklands, sem haldin var í maí 2014.
Lookout
Phot/GVA
riff
The director Hrafn Gunnlaugsson was the enfant terrible of the Icelandic film making. His home screening of When the Raven Flies will definitively be a night to remember.
Welcome to the Wonderful World of Hrafn Gunnlaugsson Reykjavík International Film Festival (RIFF) will kick off for the eleventh consecutive year on September 25.
O
ne of RIFF’S standout events this year is when acclaimed and somewhat notorious director Hrafn Gunnlaugsson screens his classic Viking saga, When The Raven Flies at his home at Laugarnes, Reykjavík (September 27) The cult film celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. After the screening there will be a Q&A session with the director and a tour of his amazing home, which is part Viking film museum, part exotica themed park. The event is bound to attract a full house. Every year, RIFF is ripe with 100 fiction films and documentaries, numerous talks and Q&A’s, cinematic concerts and other events. The festival spans eleven days, September 25th to October 5th with RIFF Industry Days covering the space of four days, October 1st to 4th. Among exciting workshops and events included in the RIFF Industry Days are an introduction to the works of Icelandic screen composers who include Ólafur Arnalds, this years winner of the BAFTA Television Craft Award for his score to the ITV’s hit detective
Those eyes Late actor Helgi Skúlason in an iconic still from When the Raven Flies.
series Broadchurch and a visit to RVX - Reykjavík Visual Effects whose owners include BaltasarKormákur (Two Guns, Contraband) and Daði Einarsson, (Gravity, Boardwalk Empire). With Iceland fast be coming one of the hottest locations to shoot Hollywood movies a special guided trip will be made outside of Reykjavík to see some of the landmarks that have appeared in famous international projects. The festival brings a host of special guests from around the world and a wealth of exciting and com pelling brand new progressive films. Among the filmmakers who have attended RIFF as guests of honour are Jim Jarmusch, Lukas Moodysson, Milos Forman and Aki Kaurismaki. The highlight of the festival is the Golden Puffin award ceremony which is Iceland’s answer to the Palme d’Or.”SM
See programme and more at www.riff.is
ASKJA
FROM LAKE MÝVATN TO ASKJA CALDERA One day guided tour. We drive through the largest untamed area in Iceland which is marked by great contrasts and unforgettable nature. Askja is in the middle of the Icelandic highlands and it takes approximately 3 to 4 hours to drive there. Our trip starts and ends in the village Reykjahlíð in the Lake Mývatn area. Time of departure is 8am and we are back around 7 or 8pm. On the way up to Askja we stop a few times to have a closer look at the amazing landscape and geological wonders, such as lava fields, glacial rivers, fresh water rivers, natural springs and magnificent mountains.
Arnarnes 660 Mývatn I email: askjatours@myvatntours.is I tel: +354-464 1920
18
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
OVER 30 YEARS EXPERIENCE
EXPERIENCE The Golden Circle Treat yourself to Iceland’s most popular pizza. Call us at 58 12345, we deliver right to your room!
TEL. 58 12345 Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
19
Lookout
Photo/Jerel Lai
bistro
G a s
Five friends felt the need for a local café in the Vesturbær neighbourhood of Reykjavík and decided to open Kaffihús Vesturbæjar. The bistro will open for business in September.
A humble little bistro in Reykjavik’s west side A new bistro, named Kaffihús Vesturbæjar, opens in the Vesturbær neighbourhood of Reykjavík in September. The highly anticipated café is the first one to open in the area.
F
ive friends, who all reside in Vesturbær, had long felt the need for a spot where locals could meet up and have lunch, dinner or a couple of drinks, and eventually took it upon themselves to open such a place. Gísli Marteinn Baldursson, a well-known television personality and former member of the city council, Pétur Marteinsson, former professional football player turned restaurateur, Kristinn Vilbergsson, a restaurateur, Hálfdan Pedersen, an interior and set designer, and Einar Örn Ólafsson have spent every spare moment over the past month transforming what used to be a pharmacy on Melhagi into a cosy bistro and café.
20
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
“We kept hoping someone else would under take this task – but no one did. So, we ended up doing it ourselves,” explains Gísli Marteinn. The group found the perfect location on Melhagi 20 a month ago and that’s when the wheels really began to turn. “We noticed that the local pharmacy had shrunk in size and was only using half the space it did before. We contacted the pharmacist and promoted our idea: To take over the other half and turn it into a bistro. And he gladly agreed.” The group then began to recycle and upcycle the space under designer Hálfdan’s supervision. They decided to keep the building’s original features and most of the furniture is a mixed bag of wonderful vintage items provided by generous neighbours.
According to Gísli Marteinn the menu will consist of lovely seasonal soups, slow cooked lamb shanks and other tasty treats created by chef Gunnar Karl Gíslason, who also happens to run Dill Restaurant and the pizzeria on Hverfisgata 12. The bistro will open for business in early September and Gísli maintains it’ll be a quiet event that will largely go unnoticed. “We are a modest group of people and our bistro will also embody that quality. We have already received more media attention than we had anticipated. Our wish is that our neighbours will take notice when the bistro opens and pay us a visit,” he concludes.
w
Go home witthh a story wor sharing!
Open everyday from 8am-10pm
Rafting
Ice Climbing Snorkeling
Diving
Glacier Hike Canoeing
Hiking
Climbing
Super-Jeep Caving
Horse Riding Sightseeing Snowmobile Whale Watch ATV
Kayaking
Cycling
Surfing
Boat Ride
Hot Spring
Incentive
Skiing
Mountain Hut Camping
Swimming
Multi Trips
www.adventures.is | info@adventures.is | +354-562-7000 | Downtown ReykjavĂk Sales Office Laugavegur Icelandat Mag / vol. #07 2014 11 I 21
Lookout STREET FASHION
Aron Bergmann Magnússon and Xarene, set designer and artist. Favourite store in Reykjavík: Herrafataverslun Kormáks og Skjaldar in Kjörgarður, Laugavegur 59 and Jör og Laugavegur 89.
The Style on the Street Words & photos by Sara McMahon
Street style’s growing popularity, driven by photo graphers such as the great Bill Cunningham of the New York Times, Tommy Ton with Style.com, blogger/photographer Garance Doré, and The Sartorialist’s Scott Schuman, has not bypassed this little island in the North Atlantic. Doré once said that today’s street style is “more fashion-week style” than true street style, but this is not true of Iceland. Here, there is no fashion-week (we have an annual fashion weekend in March), only true, honest street style. And lots of it. Iceland Magazine’s photographer went out and about town and shot a few local stylistas in an attempt to capture Iceland’s true street style.
Marta Finnbogadóttir, sales assistant.
22
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
In our souvenir shop you will find Icelandic design inspired by the Northern Lights Designs by: Dimmblá Stál í stál - Jens Volcap Olason paintings Gingó hönnun Svandís Kandís and more Free coffee & tea at our store
Maritime museum CCP
Hotel Marina
The Northern Light Center
Visit us and experience our multimedia exhibition It's only a ten-minute walk from the city center
The old harbour Harpan Music hall Reykjavík Art museum Kolaportið fleemarket
www.aurorareykjavik.is
Grandagarður 2 - 101 Reykjavík Open every day from 09:00 - 21:00 Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
23
Lookout STREET FASHION
Katrín Erlingsdóttir, social worker. Favourite store in Reykjavík: Spúútnik on Laugavegur 28b.
Hrafnhildur Svala Sigurjónsdóttir and Sólveig Ólafsdóttir, students. Favourite store in Reykjavík: Hrafnhildur: Gallerí 17 in Kringlan, Zara and Spúútnik for second hand clothes. Sólveig: Volcano on Laugavegur 40.
Katla Ásgeirsdóttir, DJ. Bergþóra Snæbjörnsdóttir, poet. Iðunn Jónsdóttir, sales assistant. Favourite store in Reykjavík: Gloria on Laugavegur Favourite store in Reykjavík: The Salvation Army‘s Favourite store in Reykjavík: Gyllti Kötturinn in 37 and 101 Optic on Skólavörðustígur 2. clothing store on Garðastræti 6. Austurstræti 8.
24
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
HVERAGERÐI
- blómstrandi bær!
Hveragerði – the health town Welcoming community Boil an egg in our field of hot springs Experience our romantic walking paths Variety of seasonal festivals Greenhousing and green areas Unique golfcourse Striking natural beauty Swimming pool of your dreams Thriving scene for arts and culture
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
25
Finding the Right Gift Souvenirs
The worst part of going on vacation is the last-second panic of finding an authentic gift to present your family members with as they welcome you home. How many times have you found yourself raiding the airport gift shop for an overpriced keychain or stuffed animal, in an attempt to prove to your loved ones that you were actually thinking about them rather than partying it up with your friends or coworkers. Like it or not, any time you visit an exotic location such as Iceland, there is going to be lot of pressure to bring back souvenirs. Rather than scrambling last second at Keflavik airport and splurging on an over-priced stuffed puffin, I thought it would be useful to make a list of noteworthy Icelandic souvenirs that are truly authentic and actually practical, to show your loved ones that you care. Words by Matt Eliason
1
Northern Lights Memorabilia One common misconception that a lot of tourists don’t understand about Iceland’s Northern lights, is the fact that they can only be seen in the winter. However, you can capture the amazing scenery of the Northern Lights in a picture from Aurora Reykjavik, the Northern Lights Center. These gifts will provide a great backdrop for apartment decorating or can also enhance your office wall at work with the breathtaking backdrops of the vibrant colors of the Northern Lights. Places to find the Northern Lights Memorabilia: Aurora Reykjavik
A reason to return The Northern Lights can only be seen in the winter. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
2
Icelandic Sweaters and Blankets Icelanders are known for their style. Be sure to make a Scandinavian fashion statement with one of Iceland’s many sweater styles. When I first came to Iceland, I was looking at the sweaters saying, “There is no way I can pull that off.” I now find myself shopping around for the distinct looking sweaters not only to fit in, but to live up to the high standard of style that is present at the Reykjavik nightlife spots. Kids and adults alike, will appreciate the “cool” style of the sweaters, and with the temperature rarely reaching 15 degrees Celsius, the Icelandic sweater manufactures know how to make a warm pullover. Take this back with you to your next family birthday party and give the perfect Icelandic gift. Also, make sure to get the tax form to save 20% upon returning to your country of origin.
Lopapeysa Icelandic wool sweater at alafoss.is
26
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
Places to find the Icelandic Sweaters: handknit.is Geysir, Varma, The Viking Souvenir Shop, Heritage Fashion Icelandic Style
3
Rís Buff Candy The Rís Buff Candy found at all Icelandic convenient shops and grocery stores is so addictive it should come with a warning label. Covered in chocolate with rice crisps and some sort of gooey marshmallow concoction, the Buff candy will make you Mr. Popular at your office if you put these out for co-worker consumption. I have even considered forming my own company in order to bring these delicious treats to the American market. Grab some before you head out of Iceland and share them with friends and family or just eat them yourself, that’s probably a more realistic outcome. Places to find the Buff Rís Candy: Bonus, 10-11 Convenient Store
The sweet stuff This should come with a warning label.
Svarfadur Valley is Iceland’s most beautiful place, according to its people, the Svarfdaelings. A few years ago, all sheep in the valley were quarantined and destroyed because of scrapie, a fatal and infectious disease. That’s when they founded the Herding Society, a venerable club of shepherds, car mechanics, carpenters, schoolteachers and plumbers. They are also poets and singers and festive men. And they continue to herd every year, despite the fact that there is not a single sheep left in the valley. The Svarfadur Valley Herding Society: Skál fyrir þér! Léttöl
4
Souvenirs
Brennivin Hard Liquor I have mentioned Brennivin hard alcohol a few times before in previous articles, but I must reiterate, there is no better way to make an entrance at a party than whipping out the distinct green bottle of Brennivin and serving up some of Iceland´s signature drink. The unique taste and strong alcohol content is sure to make whoever drinks the “black death” remember the experience for years to come. Buy some Brennivin for your friends before departing Keflavik airport at the duty free shop and present them with this truly authentic gift that is rarely found in the US or Europe. Places to find the Brennivin: Vínbúðin, Nordic Store, Duty Free Iceland
At the Blue Lagoon You can enjoy the treatment on the spot and take it away in a bottle.
6
Blue Lagoon Spa Treatments While your friends and family may not have the opportunity to bathe in the Blue lagoon natural geothermal pool, you can bring back some of the popular tourist destination’s natural spa treatments. While at the Blue Lagoon you can see visitors rubbing the light blue clayish treatments that can be found on the rocks surrounding the volcanic rock. The Blue Lagoon store has bottled these lotions, which are said to have the power of healing skin, not sure if I believe this part, but nonetheless the lotion products are soothing. These products are not only available at the Blue Lagoon, but also shops found through Reykjavik and in the Keflavik Airport. Places to find the Blue Lagoon Spa Treatments: Blue Lagoon Iceland
5
Jewelry with Volcanic Rock
Brennivín Iceland’s signature liguor.
28
I
Iceland is well-known for its volcanic activity and there is no better way to capture the Icelandic spirit than by purchasing a gift including Icelandic lava rock. Just looking through the shops on the main street in Reykjavík, Laugavegur, you can see some really cool watches and jewelry with the distinct black, mixed in with the vibrant neon blue of the Blue Lagoon. Depending on your budget, you can customize the watch (this will set you back a few króna), but how many times will you have the opportunity to buy a watch mixed with Lava? Places to find the Jewlery with Volcanic Rock: Gullkúnst Helgu, JS Watch
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
Photo/Ari Magg
7
Icelandic Music Yes, we’ve all heard of Björk, but what else does Icelandic Music have to offer? I’ve found that the Icelandic music scene has a unique identity which includes a mixture of heavy metal and dreamy house music, which provides a great accomplice for your morning run, or if you need some back-up music at your office desk during work hours. I have had the chance to discover some of Iceland’s most authentic music at Bad Taste Record Store, located on the main street in downtown Reykjavik. Björk’s record label owns the store, and in an age of MP3 downloads and hit singles; the small green structure of Bad Taste Records provides the perfect setting to hear a CD through its entirety. Purchase CDS from popular Icelandic bands such as GusGus or Kaleo as a gift for your loved ones back home and they are sure to get an genuine taste of the Icelandic music culture. Places to find the Icelandic Music: Bad Taste Record Store, Iceland Music Export
ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLU 63788 04/13
Frísland Goð Special Edition Black dial made with volcanic ash.
AIRICELAND.IS
OUR VERY BEST PRICE ALWAYS AWAITS YOU ONLINE GRÍMSEY
ÞÓRSHÖFN
ÍSAFJÖRÐUR
VOPNAFJÖRÐUR AKUREYRI
GREENLAND ITTOQQORTOORMIIT
EGILSSTAÐIR
ILULISSAT
ICELAND
NUUK
ÍSLENSKA/SIA.IS/FLU 63788 04/13
KULUSUK REYKJAVÍK NARSARSUAQ
FAROE ISLANDS TÓRSHAVN
HIGHLY SEDUCTIVE OFFERS TO ALL OUR DESTINATIONS For more Day Tours, look at our website www.airceland.is websales@airiceland.is tel. +354 570 3030 Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
29
The Wild
West
The Westfjords are the part of Iceland that looks (when you look at a map of the country) a little like the antlers of a reindeer. With its endless fjords and coves, this is not an area for fast traveling. It forces you to slow down the pace and savor the breathtaking scenery of the subArctic landscape. This is a land that is wild at heart, with small fishing villages still fighting the forces of nature that have conquered some of the fjords, driving away human settlements and leaving the Arctic fox as the reigning mammal. Photos by Vilhelm Gunnarsson
The harbor area The Westfjords are dotted with little fishing villages.
Drangsnes hot tubs It may only have 67 inhabitants (according to a 2011 census), but a visit to the small fishing village of Drangsnes at the mouth of the fjord of Steingrímsfjörður should be on your “to do” list. By the ridge of the beach in Drangsnes are three tubs filled with geothermal warm water, where you can relax while enjoying the view—free of charge!
Kerling rock formation In the village of Drangsnes is a large rock named “Kerling” (Old woman). According to Icelandic folklore, three troll women tried to separate the Westfjords from the rest of Iceland, but as we know, when the sun comes up, trolls turn to rock. This old maid was caught in the sun, which is why the Westfjords continue to be physically attached to Iceland.
The swimming pool at Krossnes With water running down the hillsides from hot springs, the swimming pool at Krossnes is like no other. Like the Drangsnes hot tubs, it’s located right on the beach, making the view of the midnight sun absolutely breathtaking. Often, baby seals can be spotted playing around in the ocean. The Westfjords have many other fantastic geothermal pools, some made by nature, other by men. See a great list and information on www.watertrail.is
30
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
At hornstrandir The scenery is simply breathtaking.
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
31
Krossnes swimming pool The unique pool is located on the seafront.
Tungudalur Valley and Seljalandsdalur Valley Icelandic mountains may not compare to the French Alps or the Keystone Resort in Denver, but winter sports are very popular among the island’s inhabitants. The two valleys in the fjord of Ísafjörður are considered the town’s “best kept secret,” so a ski trip to the Westfjords is a perfect winter escape. Just make sure that the lifts are open on the days you plan to be there!
Hornstrandir Nature Reserve Tight spot The roads are often quite narrow.
Hornstrandir is home to the Arctic fox, an animal that has grown accustomed to visitors and is quite friendly in the sense that it doesn’t hide from people.
Hornstrandir region used to be inhabited, but now the only person who lives there year round is the lighthouse keeper. There are no roads in the region and low-flying planes are banned in order to maintain the serenity of the area. This is Iceland’s most remote part out side of the central highlands. Hornstrandir is home to the Arctic fox, an animal that has grown accustomed to visitors and is quite friendly in the sense that it doesn’t hide from people. The abundant fauna and animal life in the area is a clear sign that human interference is absolutely kept to a minimum. To get to Hornstrandir, you can catch a boat from Ísafjörður.
Vigur Island When visiting the Westfjords, a day trip to Vigur Island is something you shouldn’t miss. The island is privately owned and the same family has lived there since 1884. The island is only 2 km long and approximately 400 m wide at its widest. It’s possible to take a boat over and then get a guided tour around the island, with a coffee-stop at a house called Viktoríuhús. Vigur Island is home to about 80,000 puffins that arrive in April and stay until they head back out to sea in the autumn. During the summer months, there are daily trips by boat from the town of Ísafjörður to Vigur. The trip takes about 30-40 minutes.
Seaweed baths Curious The Arctic fox in Hornstrandir has grown accustomed to people.
32
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
In the village of Reykhólar in the southern Westfjords, you can enjoy a seaweed bath in the wilderness. The natural properties of seaweed are believed to increase the moisture, softness, and elasticity of the skin, making a stop at the health baths both relaxing and revitalizing.
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
33
The Wild West
A historical ride For intermediate and advanced horseback riders, a historical 7-day riding tour in the Westfjords is a trip for the story books. The riding path, which takes riders into the harsh conditions experienced by farmers in the olden days, is the same path followed by the Vikings in the Sagas. The area is known for sea monsters and ghosts roaming the land, but we’re quite confident they’ve all passed away. For a sneak peek of what you might see, you can watch a short video.
Family fun at Raggagarður If you’re anywhere near the village of Súðavík, you won’t be able to miss Raggagarður play area, even if you tried. It’s a large outdoor area, with all sorts of swings and playground equip ment that may be meant for children, yet provide fun for the whole family, young and old.
Inaccessible during the winter months At the bottom of Mjóifjörður fjord, between the village of Hólmavík and the town of Ísafjörður, lies a valley by the name of Heydalur. Inaccessible throughout most of the winter months, the Heydalur Guesthouse offers rooms and houses for up to ten people, and an abundance of activities for visitors with various interests. Should you make it to Heydalur in the winter, we recommend a relaxing dip in Heydalur’s thermal spring at night—while soaking you can watch the Northern Lights dance in the sky above you.
Puffins flock to the small island of Vigur in spring.
Ancient sorcery and witchcraft The Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft in Hólmavík village is one of kind in Iceland and probably in the world. Among the items you will find in the museum is a replica of a pair of “Necropants” that, according to legend, will bring an endless supply of money to whoever wears them. However, making a pair is the tricky part, as you have to skin a dead man below the waist and then sow the hide together. Unfortunately, for those interested, the pair at the museum cannot be tried on!A new exhibition was opened in the museum last spring, showcasing scripts, books, and photographs from before 1900. The books and scripts have been carefully preserved and include collections of rhymes and jokes from the past.
IBCTRAVEL
Guðmundur Valdimarsson Owner/driver guide Urðarvegur 27 / 400 Ísafjörður Tel: +354 861 4694 Email: info@ibctravel.is
www.ibctravel.is
Hotel-Restaurant Camping in the Westfjords
34
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
(00 354) 456 48 24 www.heydalur.is heydalur@heydalur.is Horse-riding, kayak, thermal springs, delicious food and comfortable accomodation in the middle of a wild preserved nature.
Iceland’s Premier Hotel Chain
Hospitality runs in the family
Icelandair Hotels is a renowned chain of quality hotels located around Iceland. The characteristic of each hotel is shaped by the surrounding nature, local vitality and cultural heritage, but what they have in common is equally important; warmth, style and great service. The Icelandair Hotels are like members of a tight-knit family where the personality and temperament of each individual shine through. Your own family will feel right at home in the Icelandair Hotels family.
For information and bookings: www.icelandairhotels.com or by telephone (+354) 444 4000.
REYKJAVÍK NATURA
REYKJAVÍK MARINA
in KEFLAVÍK
FLÚÐIR
VÍK
KLAUSTUR
I
Mag / vol. #07HAMAR 2014 HÉRAÐ Iceland AKUREYRI
35
Surfing
at the edge of the world Most people are hardwired to believe that surfing is chilling out in the sun and grabbing smooth waves; not to mention, after catching some waves, you
relax amidst palm trees and pristine beaches lifted straight out of travel brochures. If you are one of them, think again. Text by Marvin Dupree Photo/Bastien BONNARME, ŠNIXON Europe
36
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
37
E
Surfing
Even though it’s not known for blistering temperatures or palm trees, Iceland attracts surfers with its midnight sun and its shores that are sparsely populated with other surfers, as well as its luscious landscape. Yet, you might still be wondering how anyone stumbled on the foolhardy idea of surfing in the far reaches of the North Atlantic Ocean. No, it was not long, shaggy-haired Vikings riding on wooden planks. Most people in Iceland’s small but dedicated surfer community attribute the genesis of surfing in Iceland to the American military personnel who were stationed at the Keflavík naval airbase. Apparently, they frequented the area of Sandvík cove, located on the Reykjanes peninsula—an area that also stood in for the beaches of Iwo Jima in Clint Eastwood’s Flags of Our Fathers.
Bring a wetsuit The fervor of the Americans who imported the sport seems to have lit a spark—it helped create the thriving surfer community that now exists here in Iceland. Developments in wetsuit technology also helped facilitate the growth of the surfing scene in Iceland. Furthermore, a branch of the Gulf Stream warms the climate and the sea around Iceland, and thus average coastal water temperatures, despite Iceland’s latitude, are around 12 degrees Celsius (53.6 Fahrenheit). So now that you are aware of surfing in Iceland (and that it is indeed possible), you might ask, where exactly do people go to surf in Iceland? By taking advantage of Iceland’s twenty-plus hours of summer sunlight, you can witness some spectacular scenery. Experts point out that Eyvík cove, ten kilometers from the town of Húsavík, is an excellent choice for beginners, especially because it has a sandy beach, and you can view the splendid marine life of Skjálfandi bay. I spoke with a surfer named Linda Loeskow, who has surfed in countries such as Costa Rica, Jamaica, Spain, and Portugal. Linda says that Iceland is generally a great place to surf, and that you can often come across curious seals.
Skagafjörður fjord The island is Drangey where Grettir, one of Iceland’s most famous Saga outlaws, sought shelter.
38
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
Photo/Alex LAUREL, ©NIXON Europe
Despite the allure of surfing in the midnight sun, Loeskow points out that during the summer, the waves are not always optimal. The best time for good waves seems to be fall or spring, when the sea is relatively warm and it’s bright enough. In fact, some surfers such as Linda Enever and photographer Chris Burkard have chronicled their surfing exploits in Iceland. Not only do surfers like Enever and Burkard surf during winter, but they venture into places such as Jökulárslón, a glacial lagoon located on Iceland’s southern coast at the edge of Vatnajökull National Park. But is it difficult to start surfing in Iceland? The answer is a resounding No. In fact, a few companies operate surfing schools and courses in Iceland, such as Surf.is and Arctic Surfers. Both companies have experienced instructors who teach safety procedures along with the logistics of surfing in Iceland.
Photo/Alex LAUREL, ©NIXON Europe
Starting off
In Brief
The Nixon Surf Challenge The stunning photos accompanying this article are from the Nixon Surf Challenge in Iceland last year. This is not a typical competition as the riders decide themselves who are awarded the winners trophy for the best trick and the overall winner. The Nixon Surf Challenge emphasizes free-surfing and style in a relaxed atmosphere. It has developed from a casual get-together of befriended riders sharing some waves into a highly-anticipated event discovering unexplored destinations, from Iceland, to Lofoten Islands, Norway to Kamtchaka, Russia, to name a few.
Hard as nails The temperature of the sea in October is 9°C (48.2°F). Wet suits are recommended.
“The best time for good waves seems to be fall or spring, when the sea is relatively warm and it’s bright enough. In fact, some surfers such as Linda Enever and photographer Chris Burkard have chronicled their surfing exploits in Iceland.”
Nixon is a premium watch and accessories brand distributed in over 90 countries. See more at surfchallenge.nixon.com
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
39
Photo/Bastien BONNARME, ©NIXON Europe
Surfing
Winter no obstacle
40
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
“Personally, I always imag ined surfing in Iceland to be more extreme than it really was. If any thing, getting out of the wetsuit on land with all the snow is the worst part.”
Dramatic surroundings The driftwood is believed to have travelled from Siberia to Iceland.
Photo/Alex LAUREL, ©NIXON Europe
Of course, conditions in Iceland are quite differ ent than in other locations. As Linda Loeskow told me, “Surfing is more of a hassle in Iceland since you have to travel outside of Reykjavík, and also check for the waves, plus weather con ditions, in particular the wind. In places such as Costa Rica, you can just go surfing at the spur of moment, especially because of the wetsuit.” At the same time, she points out that “it is no more dangerous to surf here in Iceland than anywhere else, in my opinion. It is an extreme sport and the environment in any location as well as the surfboard itself can always present dangers.” And when asked about surfing during the winter, Linda replied, “Personally, I always imag ined surfing in Iceland to be more extreme than it really was. If anything, getting out of the wetsuit on land with all the snow is the worst part.” If you have the urge to hit Iceland’s cool waves, experienced and intermediate surfers can find multiple-day packages from operators such as Surf.is and Arctic Surfers. A complete pack age from an operator such as Arctic Surfers consists of accommodation, transportation, a guide for the entire trip, and all meals and snacks are inclusive. It is also possible to create one’s own package along with another person. One thing is certain: surfing is Iceland is an experi ence you will never forget.
Getting warm in Grettir’s pool There are two man made stone pools built over geothermal hot springs at Reykir in Skagafjörður fjord. The older is named after Grettir the outlaw.
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
41
One Becomes Four
The ReykjavĂk Dance Festival takes place from August 23rd until the 30th. The festival was founded by artists in 2002 and has since grown into an exciting annual art event, including workshops, forums, and parties. This year, twelve new works by Icelandic choreographers will be presented as part of the Dance Festival‘s programme. Photos by Jerel Lai
42
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
Festival and a faculty member at the Performing Arts Department of the Iceland Academy of the Arts. Sveinbjörg Þórhallsdóttir graduated as a dancer from the Alvin Ailey American Dance Centre in New York in 1995 and as a choreographer from Fontys University in Holland in 2008. She now holds a position as an assistant professor at the Iceland Academy of the Arts, as well as being the programme director of Contemporary Dance at the Department of Performing Arts in the same school.
Photo/Jerel Lai)
Have you taken part in the Reykjavík Dance Festival before? Sveinbjörg: “Yes, we’ve taken part numerous times before, both as dancers and choreographers.”
“It’s all about communica tion and respect. When you work creatively with someone, so many ideas will arise from the dis course— which means you have to be flexible and willing to comprom ise.”
Where did the idea for Reið come from? Steinunn: “Neither one of us was an experienced horse rider, but both of us were extremely fascinated by the dignity, strength, and power of the Icelandic horse. Sveinbjörg: “Traits that we feel Icelandic women also possess.” Steinunn: “We spent a whole year on research, examining the life of mares. During that time we found many surprising connections between mares and women. Mares are used as breeding machines— they spend a large part of their lives pregnant, and they are also very maternal and strong. Still today, women all around the world are also being exploited, the most obvious example being prostitution.” Sveinbjörg: “Another interesting issue was the link between horse breeding and the training of dancers, where the aim in both is to shape and strengthen the physical form.” Steinunn: “All these ideas and research led to much bigger, deeper questions. How do Icelandic women respond to nature? Is our struggle for existence the same as the mares?” Did you enjoy working together on Reið? Sveinbjörg: “Very much so. This is not the first time we’ve worked together. By now, we know each other so well that artistic conflicts are few and far between. However, it’s never easy to compose a dance piece, either alone or in collaboration. It demands patience.” Steinunn: “It’s all about communication and respect. When you work creatively with someone, so many ideas will arise from the discourse— which means you have to be flexible and willing to compromise.” According to Steinunn and Sveinbjörg, the sixty-minute-long piece is very demanding on the nine dancers, one of whom is pregnant. The costumes were designed by Jóní Jónsdóttir, and the music was composed by Andrea Gylfadóttir, a famous Icelandic jazz singer.
Comparing the Woman and the Mare
S
teinunn Ketilsdóttir and Sveinbjörg Þórhallsdóttir are the authors of the dance work Reið, meaning “ride,” which focuses on the Icelandic woman and the mare, and the strength and beauty that they have in common. One of the questions posed by the choreographers is, What is a perfect woman in comparison to the perfect mare? Steinunn Ketilsdóttir graduated from Hunter College in New York in 2005. Since graduation she has work ed both independently and in collaboration with other artists. She is a board member of the Reykjavík Dance
Steinunn Ketilsdóttir and Sveinbjörg Þóhallsdóttir composed the dance work Reið, which focuses on the similarities between the Icelandic woman and the mare.
Reið will be shown in the City Theatre (Borgarleikhúsið), Listabraut 3, on August 30th at 9:30 pm.
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
43
Photos/Jerel Lai
Dance Festival
Alexander Roberts and Ásgerður Gunnarsdóttir recently took over as the artistic directors of the Reykjavík Dance Festival, which will take place for the twelfth time from August 23rd to 30th.
A change of pace
A
lexander Roberts and Ásgerður Gunnarsdóttir recently took over as the festival’s artistic directors, a position they will hold for the next three years. The duo made some radical changes to the festival’s arrangement, most notably splitting it into four smaller festivals taking place at different times during the year. Alexander hopes that this arrangement will accelerate the development of a scene for dancing and choreography. The smaller festivals are scheduled to take place in late November, mid-February, and mid-May. The event in August will focus on Icelandic artists, while the one in November will shine the spotlight on artists who are concerned with the phenomena of pop culture. The event in February, however, will focus on solo performances, and the one in May will feature the work of choreographers who are working with the concert format.
Ásgerður Gunnars dóttir began dancing at a very young age, and has continued ever since.
Who are they? Alexander Roberts hails from England and had his start in music, playing in punk and hard core bands. It was during that time that he developed an interest in Live Art, performance, dance, and choreography. Now he works predominantly as a curator, an artist, and as a producer of Live Art. Ásgerður Gunnarsdóttir began dancing at a very young age, and has continued ever since. She graduated with a BA from the Department of Performing Art at the Icelandic Academy of the Arts. During her studies she co-founded a fringe festival for young performers named artFart, which ran from 2006 to 2010. In addition to managing the Reykjavík Dance Festival, they both work as dramaturgical advisors and teach courses at the Icelandic Academy of the Arts.
Bring out the Neighbours
D
ancer and choreographer Ásrún Magnúsdóttir is the author of the Reykjavík Dance Festival’s opening act. The piece, entitled Church of Dance, features Ásrún’s neighbours, who welcome the audience into their homes during the performance. When did you first begin to dance? “I’ve been dancing since the age of ten—so, for fifteen years now. When I was younger, I did jazz dance, gymnastics, and ballet, but later I moved into contemporary dance. This is my life’s passion.” Have you taken part in the Reykjavík Dance Festival before? “I have. I think it was in 2011.”
44
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
Photo/Jerel Lai
“I wanted to carry on developing this idea—the communal impact of dance. So, I got in contact with my neighbours and asked whether they would like to participate.”
Ásrún Magnúsdóttir is the author of the Reykjavík Dance Festival’s opening act.
Experience real Icelandic cuisine
Bankastræti 2, 101 Reykjavík Tel: (+354) 551 4430 info@laekjarbrekka.is www.laekjarbrekka.is
Let’s be friends!
I
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014 45 /laekjarbrekka vurl.is/i
Dance Festival Your opening piece is quite unusual. Where did the idea come from? “The idea actually sprouted from another piece of mine. Last year I planned to compose a new traditional dance for the people of Reykjavík. I met with a group of locals and, after a lengthy discussion with them about dance and its impact on society, I designed a new dance and taught them the movements and steps. I wanted to carry on developing this idea—the communal impact of dance. So, I got in contact with my neighbours and asked whether they would like to participate. Fifteen apartments on my block agreed to it, that is, the inhabitants of fifteen flats. I love how diverse the group is, both in age and background,” Ásrún explains enthusiastically. Ásrún composed part of the thirty-minute dance routine, but a large part of the performance is improvised. The audience will assemble in Ásrún’s own apartment in Njálsgata, where the performance
The audience will assemble in Ásrún’s own apart ment in Njálsgata, where the performance begins.
begins. A map will guide guests to the other apartments that are dotted around in the streets nearby. “I wouldn’t have been able to teach untrained dancers a thirty-minutelong dance routine in such a short time. I also wanted the dancers to feel secure during the performance and to express their personalities through their movements. That is why part of the routine is improvised on the spot.” Ásrún’s second dance piece for the Reykjavík Dance Festival is called Fronted and features musicians Katrín Mogensen, of the band Mammút, and Gunnar Rúnarsson, of the band Grísalappalísa. Fronted focuses on how vocalists move while on stage, a sub-obsession of Ásrún’s. “I’m captivated by their instinctive, unchoreographed movements, which also play a huge part in their performance. I found myself drawn especially to Katrín and Gunnar and their on-stage movements, so I asked them to take part in my second piece. “The performance is set up like a concert, except we’ve removed the music and the band, and are only left with the two performers, completely exposed, on stage. This will either result in them bettering their live performances, or completely ruin their confidence,” Ásrún wraps up with a little chuckle.
Borrowing from the Best few. It is very physically challenging for me as a dancer to go through all these different genres, and at times I felt like giving up. Thankfully I didn’t, and I’m very excited to perform the piece for an audience.” Photo/Jerel Lai
In Saving History, Katrín Gunnarsdóttir pays homage to her idols who all influenced her as a dancer and choreographer—the late Martha Graham, Britney Spears, the Spice Girls, Beyoncé, and Bollywood. She incorporates dance repertoires “borrowed” from the work of others into her piece, creating a dance compilation that spans her entire career as a choreographer, starting at the tender age of thirteen. When did you first begin to dance? “I’ve been dancing for a long time now. I began doing freestyle dance and used to compete in freestyle competitions. Later I attended the Icelandic Academy of Arts and then went on to study choreography at ArtEZ in Holland.” Have you taken part in the Reykjavík Dance Festival before? “I’ve taken part numerous times before—both as a dancer and as a choreographer—but this is the first time I’ve performed solo at the festival.” Where did the idea for Saving History come from? “Ever since I first began to present choreography, at the age of thirteen, both my creative and learning process has involved a certain amount of ‘borrowing’ from other people’s work. I thought it interesting to review my past as a choreographer—the good and the bad—and compose a piece that incorporates all my ‘borrowing’ throughout the years. “The piece consists of 26 bits of other people’s work, including that of Martha Graham, Beyoncé, and Britney Spears, to name only a
46
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
Katrín Gunnarsdóttir performs Saving History during the Reykjavík Dance Festival. The piece contains 26 “borrowed” bits of other people’s work.
Saving History will be performed on August 29th at 7:30 pm (in a double bill with Is this it) in Kassinn, The National Theatre, Lindargata 3.
Watchmaker Frank Michelsen, founder of Michelsen Watchmakers, at his desk in Sauðárkrókur, N-Iceland, in 1920.
Michelsen Reykjavík 64°N/22°W A fine mechanical self-winding movement, a 316L Stainless steel case with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, a black, lava-grey or silver dial and a choice of 15 different handmade leather straps. These exclusive watches are made in a limited, numbered edition.
Reykjavík 64°N/22°W Lava-grey dial Icelandic Wolffish strap
Laugavegur 15 - 101 Reykjavík - Tel. 354 511 1900 - www.michelsenwatch.com
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
47
Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
28
Reasons To Love Reykjavík Two-thirds of Iceland’s population (327,000) live in the greater capital area in the southwest corner of the country. Reykjavík, the capital, was granted town status in 1786. This is where Iceland’s first settler erected his house in the year 870— the great natural harbor facilities and the abundance of hot springs probably influenced his choice. There are many other reasons to love the capital area.
Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
Here we name a few.
Photo/GVA
1 The architecture Take a tour of the iconic Harpa concert hall, or swing by the church, Hallgrímskirkja, which was recently ranked one of the strangest buildings in the world. Mix these destinations in with the scenic building art, the corrugated iron-clad houses, and colorful rooftops that dot the city’s downtown area.
2 48
I
The convenient layout While most major cities are difficult to navigate, and offer costly transportation options, Reykjavík is easy to explore the old-fashioned way, on foot. Walking around the city provides a relaxing atmosphere, and more important, it’s a very convenient way to enjoy this small city.
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
49
4
Language options tailored to tourists Iceland could see as many as 1 million tourists this year, and the people of the city of Reykjavík realize that they need to accommodate their foreign guests properly. Most shops offer an English option on their menu or brochure, as well as the native tongue of Icelandic. Additionally, most Icelanders speak enough English to communicate with travelers who hope to explore the Reykjavík metropolitan area.
50
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
The days can last over 21 hours during the summer. It may be difficult to get to sleep, but the town embraces its midnight sun. People are always “out and about” whether the clock reads 3 pm or 3 am. Come on June 21st, the longest day of the year, when the sun never completely sets in Reykjavík.
Photo/Ron Eliason
3
Because of the midnight sun
5
Because of the street art Reykjavík’s street art appears on the side of buildings, in alleyways, and on billboards around the town and help bring the city to life. Sometimes they are done in graffiti form, while other times they simply use a paint brush.
67
You can stay out as late as you want at one of Reykjavik‘s late-night hangout spots. Be sure to bring your sunglasses because you are sure to walk out of the bar while the sun is still up, after enjoying a fun night with your friends.
…and the swimming pools during the winter The many public geothermal swimming pools of the capital area are one of the most appealing part of living in or visiting Reykjavík. They are, of course, great during the warmer months, but there is something fantastic about dipping into a hot outdoor pool in the middle of a crazy winter blizzard.
Photo/Daníel Rúnarsson
Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
The days can last over 21 hours during the summer. It may be difficult to get to sleep, but the town embraces its mid night sun. People are always “out and about” whether the clock reads 3 pm or 3 am. Come on June 21st, the longest day of the year, when the sun never com pletely sets in Reykjavík.
The nightlife scene during summer
8
Because of the Museum of Design and Applied Art in Garðabær town The Museum of Design and Applied Art is located in Garðabær, a ten-minute drive from central Reykjavík. The museum’s aim is to collect and preserve the “part of Icelandic cultural history encompassing design” from the beginning of the 20th century up until the present day. Nearby is the Langalína neighborhood that boasts a small geothermal beach, the famous lava field Gálgahraun, and a huge outdoor play area for the kids.
The Bláfjöll mountain range, or “blue mountains,” situated east of Reykjavík, is the city’s main ski resort. The area has lovely slopes for skiing and snowboarding as well as cross-country skiing tracks. There is a ski and snowboard rental service on site. The area usually opens in late December and stays open until Easter, depending on the weather.
10
It’s full of gentle giants
Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
9
Winter sports in the “Blue Mountains”
A 1,700-square-meter (18,299 square feet) whale center will open in Reykjavík harbor later this month. The center will be the largest of its kind in Europe, with over twenty life-size specimen models on display. The center will focus on whales found off the coast of Iceland, their biology and behavior. In addition to the specimen models, whale skeletons will be exhibited in the museum.
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
51
Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
28 Reasons To Love Reykjavík
11
Because of the Grótta Nature Reserve The Grótta Nature Reserve is located in the Seltjarnarnes municipality, a short five-minute drive from downtown Reykjavík. The area is teeming with bird life and has a fantastic view over Snæfellsnes peninsula. After exploring the area, one can take a moment to unwind at the geothermal footbath located on the seafront.
Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
The beautiful, old house is located in the scenic Mosfellsdalur valley.
13
It’s home to author Halldór Laxness Gljúfrasteinn was the home of the writer Halldór Laxness, the only Icelandic Nobel laureate. The beautiful, old house is located in the scenic Mosfellsdalur valley, a twenty-minute drive from central Reykjavík, and is now open to the public as a museum. It also presents numerous concerts during the summer months. Photos/Sara McMahon
Photo/Jón Kaldal
12
To go bird watching Bird enthusiasts are advised to pay a visit to the bird-watching hut in Leiruvogur, Mosfellsbær town (on the northeast edge of the capital), during their stay in Reykjavík. Around 390 bird species have been recorded in Iceland. However, only twenty percent of those are regular breeders, meaning vagrants just passing through make up the majority of the Icelandic list.
14
Because of the downtown cats Maybe it’s not quite like the famous Japanese cat island Tashirojima, but downtown Reykjavík is packed with cats. These are no stray cats, but well-kept pets that are allowed to roam free around the neighborhood. The cats even have their own Facebook page (search for Cats of Reykjavík).
The viking:info Laugavegur 1 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 1 - 3 · Reykjavík Hafnarstræti 104 · Akureyri e:info@theviking.is
Akureyri Reykjavík
www.theviking.is TAX FREE
52
A o
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
s
e c r u o s A alth e h of
T her m al sw im m in g po ol s
Hot t ubs and jacuzzi
Sa un as , steambat hs an d sh ow ers
*Admission February 2014. Price is subject to change
Reykjavik's Thermal Pools
*
O N LY
k. s i 0 0 6 ADULTS k. s i 0 3 1 DREN CHIL
For he al t h an d w el l-be in g
Se ve n lo ca t io ns
Op en ear ly un t il la te
Thermal pools and d baths in Reykjavik are a source of health health, relaxation laxation and puren pureness. All of the city´s swimming pools have several hot pots with temperatures ranging from 37˚ to 42˚C (98˚–111˚F). The pools are kept at an average temperature of 29˚ C (84˚ F).
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014 I 53 Tel: +354 411 5000 • www.spacity.is
Photo/Stefán Karlsson
28 Reasons To Love Reykjavík
15
Because of Alvar Aalto’s Nordic House The Nordic House is located in Vatnsmýri moorland, just a stone’s throw from the National University. The culture house is an organic modernist building designed in 1968 by the acclaimed Finnish architect Alvar Aalto. It features most of Aalto’s signature traits. Inside you’ll find the Aalto Bistro, which serves great-tasting food and has a lovely view over the Vatnsmýri moor.
Reykjavík, the capital, was granted town status in 1786.
Bíó Paradís (Paradise Cinema) is an independent cinema at Hverfisgata 54, downtown Reykjavík, where one can enjoy the latest art house films, documentaries, and experimental films, among other things. Saturdays and Sundays are dedicated to children’s films, with shows taking place at 6 pm. In the cinema’s lobby is a small bar/café where guests can chat, enjoy some music, or play a board game.
The vibrant Grandi harbor area The Grandi harbor area is literally teeming with life. There are small fishing boats regularly coming in to harbor to land their catch; and then there’s the dry dock where bigger trawlers are being repaired. The invigorating smell of the sea, the views, eateries, boutiques, cultural activities, and the hustle and bustle of this part of town make it an ideal place for a leisurely stroll any day, any time. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
17
16
The lively film culture
54
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
AALTO BISTRO is a unique restaurant and café in the Nordic House in Reykjavik.
The chef, Sveinn Kjartansson, is renowned for his popular TV programmes in Iceland. AALTO Bistro emphasis on Scandinavian food inspired by central European cuisine. AALTO BISTRO is named by the Nordic House acclaimed Finnish modernist architect, Alvar Aalto.
The Nordic House is one of his later works, a hidden gem and features most of Aalto's signature traits. In the Nordic house, all installed furnishings, lamps and almost all of the furniture are by Aalto.
Opening hours: Monday–Wednesday 11:00 am–5:00 pm Thursday–Sunday 11:00 am–09:00 pm
Group orders are also available after opening hours. AALTO BISTRO THE NORDIC HOUSE STURLUGATA 5 101 REYKJAVIK TEL: 551 0200 WWW.AAALTO.IS
Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
28 Reasons To Love Reykjavík
18
Because of the yearly family friendly Gay Pride march This is a Gay Pride march that brings close to one-third of the nation to the center of Reykjavík. With a carnival atmosphere in the streets, extravagant floats, loud music, and general fun, the big crowd is also there to show its support of equal rights for lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgendered people. This year the Scout Movement in Iceland even joined the parade.
Iceland Airwaves music festival was first held as a one-off event in an airplane hangar at the domestic airport in Reykjavík in 1999. Since then it has become an annual event with thousands of music lovers, journalists and music industry people in attendance. One could even say it has become part of the Icelandic festive calendar. The festival takes place during the first weekend in November and this year’s line-up includes Hozier, Kaleo, Black Bananas, Future Islands and many more.
Because of the world’s best hot dogs
Photo/GVA
19
The Iceland Airwaves music festival
20
Bæjarins bestu pylsur literally means “the town’s best hot dogs,” and it’s no exaggeration. They might even lay claim to the World Champion title. This small hot dog stand in downtown Reykjavík is a giant on the Icelandic fast food scene. The menu could not be simpler: a hot dog on a bun. President Bill Clinton is still fondly remembered for his choice on a visit to Reykjavík in 2004: one with mustard only. Expect a long line. It’s worth the wait. On the corner of Pósthússtræti and Tryggvagata, Reykjavík.
ALL IN ONE
RESTAURANT
I
av
ör
ðu
Grettis
st
íg
Kla p p a rst.
ól
egur
Vegamó
stað
56
Berg
Sk
Diverse menu, great value and a wide selection of cocktails, beers and wines.
t
astr.
Laugav
Kitchen Bar Café
gata
ur
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
Vegamótastíg | 101 Reykjavík | tel. 511 3040 | www.vegamot.is
E
T
is
YOU’RE FINALLY HERE! AND SO ARE WE.
At Joe & the Juice we serve your favourite coffee, fresh vitamin-rich juice and probably the yummiest toasted sandwiches in town. Swing by, we have just what you need.
YOU'LL FIND US AT KRINGLAN AND SMÁRALIND SHOPPING CENTRES
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
57
Photo/GVA
28 Reasons To Love Reykjavík
If you look to the northeast, you can view the breathtaking Mt. Esja (914 m, 2,999 ft) that overlooks the city. If you look to the northwest, on a clear day you can see Snæfellsnes glacier (1,446 m, 4,744 ft.), with the beautiful downtown harbor in the foreground.
Photo/GVA
21
The picturesque background
22
The hidden WW2 remnants Öskjuhlíð is a hill in central Reykjavík covered with vegetation. During the Second World War, the United States Army occupation force built various bunkers that are dotted around the hill. Those war remnants are still visible, although somewhat run down and completely lacking any markings, making them difficult to find. The hike around the Öskjuhlíð area is highly enjoyable and the iconic “Pearl” restaurant, atop the old water tanks, is only a stone’s throw away.
58
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
23
Because you can get close to Vikings
24
Because you can enjoy the Northern Lights from a geothermal hot tub
25
The National Museum of Iceland was refurbished in 2004 and now presents an interesting exhibition that features most of Iceland’s national treasures. The museum’s role is to increase knowledge of the Icelandic culture and cultural heritage, dating from the country’s first settlement, up until today. The museum has an informative children’s section where visitors can dress up in Viking attire, among other things.
The Sundhöllin swimming pool, in downtown Reykjavík, is a beautiful indoor swimming pool with outdoor hot tubs. Unwind in the hot tubs during the winter and enjoy some star-gazing and, if you are lucky, the magnificent Northern Lights.
The Imagine Peace Tower on Viðey island Viðey is the largest island in Kollafjörður Bay and is only a short boat ride from Reykjavík harbor. On the island is an old church and manor, as well as Yoko Ono’s Imagine Peace Tower.
Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration
With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop.
All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. www.jswatch.com
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
59
Photo/Daníel Rúnarsson
28 Reasons To Love Reykjavík
26 You can take a dip in the North Atlantic The Nauthólsvík geothermal beach near Öskjuhlíð hill is popular among locals who practice sea swimming, an activity that has grown in popularity in recent years. Nauthólsvík beach offers changing rooms, showers, and outdoor hot tubs that are open all year around.
27 28
The food culture of the downtown strip You won’t find any fast food chains corrupting Reykjavík’s main street, but rather a series of authentic Icelandic restaurants that each offers its own unique flavor.
Because you are safe No major city on earth can rival the safety of Reykjavik, which averages less than two murders per year, in a capital area with 210,000 people.
The concept of the restaurant is "casual fun dining" and we prepare what we would call a simple honest, "feel good", comfort food, where we take on the classics with a modern twist.
60
Magazine / vol. #07 2014 I S Iceland KÓ L AVÖ R Ð U S T Í G U R 4 0 ·
10 1 R E Y K J AV Í K
·
TEL.+354 517 7474
·
INFO@KOLRESTAURANT.IS
·
KOLRESTAURANT.IS
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
61
Eyjafjallajökull glacier The infamous volcano that erupted in 2010 and caused havoc for airline passengers all over Europe is in the historic Saga of Burnt Njál region. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
In the footsteps of the Saga heroes There are many ways to explore the world of the medieval Icelandic sagas. You can, for example, visit the great Saga Center in the town of Hvolsvöllur and then saddle up and visit the scenes where the dramatic events of the sagas unfolded.
N
Words by Marvin Dupree
ot so long ago, Icelanders would huddle together in their cold turf houses and recite from the treasured and ragged folios that recorded the legendary exploits of the first Icelanders in what are now known as the Icelandic sagas. In fact, many Icelanders claim ancestry from these extraordinary forbears, and proof of this can be found in the genealogical database Íslendingabók, which records the genealogy of most Icelanders back to the settlement of the country.
62
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
“The passion Icelanders still carry in their hearts and minds for Njál’s Saga.”
This cultural heritage was so important that in the past some Icelanders would almost come to blows disputing which saga was the best. Indeed, the influence of the sagas can even be seen in one of Iceland’s most famous modern novels, Angels of the Universe, by Einar Már Guðmundsson. In the novel, a taxi driver asks newly graduated college students, how does Njál’s Saga begin? Of all the masterful sagas of Iceland’s literary tradition, many agree that Njál’s Saga or the Saga of Burnt Njál, is the definitive magnum opus, with timeless, memorable characters such as
-the hotel by the riverside, in southern Iceland in the town of Selfoss. We wish you a pleasant stay!
H贸tel SelfoSS
I
eyravegI 2
I
800 SelfoSS
I
tel: +354-480 2500
I
Info@HotelSelfoSS.IS
I
www.HotelSelfoSS.IS Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
63
Gunnar á Hlíðarenda, Skarphéðinn Njálsson, and Hallfríður langbrók (long breeches), as well as the hero Njál himself.
The Saga Center Essentially, Njál’s Saga is the story of two friends, Njál from Berg þórshvoll and Gunnar from Hlíðarenda. The discord between their wives leads to the downfall of both families and helped create a famous Iceland saying, which goes something like this: “women’s counsel is ever cruel.” Nonetheless, many people are quick to point out that Hallgerður langbrók is one Iceland’s first true feminists. Even today many Icelanders have great admiration for the story and love discussing certain aspects of it, for example, whether or not Hallgerður should have lent Gunnar hair for his bow, and who is to ultimately to blame for the tragedy. The passion Icelanders still carry in their hearts and minds for Njál’s Saga is on display in the magnificent exhibition at the Saga Center in the town of Hvolsvöllur. In visiting the Saga Center one can learn about Viking maritime travel, Viking religion, and most importantly, about Njál’s Saga. Within the Saga Center there is a reconstruction of a hall that allows visitors a glimpse of how a Viking Age chieftain like Gunnar á Hlíðarenda would have lived during the medieval era of Iceland.
The Njála tapestry The Saga Center also houses a permanent exhibition, where guests can utilize maps and information in many different langu ages to learn more about Njál’s Saga. Besides the rich historical narrative on exhibition, the Saga Center is carrying out the
Even today many Iceland ers have great admiration for the story and love discuss ing certain aspects of it, for example, whether or not Hallgerður should have lent Gunnar hair for his bow, and who is to ultimat ely to blame for the tragedy.
ambitious goal of sewing the entire Njál’s Saga into a tapestry similar to the famous medieval Bayeux tapestry. The goal is to create a 90-metre-long tapestry, making it the longest tapestry in the world, even longer than the Bayeux tapestry. Visitors can participate in the sewing after receiving instructions or can watch the instructor sew. Individuals and groups can also book guided tours of the Saga Center.
Jump into the saddle For the more adventurous traveler, companies such as Hótel Fljótshlíð or Eldhestar offer visitors Njál’s Saga tours— itineraries where participants ride horses to the historical places of this medieval epic, including places such as Vellir, where the saga commences and which was the home of the saga character Mörður Gígja. In addition to Vellir, the tour takes in other famous locations like Hlíðarendi, where Gunnar decided to die rather than leave the beauty of the countryside. Instead of leaving, Gunnar spoke the famous words, “the slope is beauti ful.” It comes as no surprise that Gunnar would die for his home, since the south of Iceland is renown for its beauty and allure. Other saga sites on the tour include the farm Bergþórshvoll, where the saga’s main tragedy occurred. Of course, on a saga tour, an experienced historian guides visitors and the saga is explored in detail during the trip. Besides visiting Njáluslóðir (the Njál’s Saga locations), you can also witness the splendor of the Eyjafjöll mountains and the infam ous Eyjafjallajökull glacier, which erupted in 2010 and caused havoc for airline passengers all over Europe. In addition to Eyjafjallajökull, there is the river Rangá, where many of the epic scenes of Njál’s Saga take place, and which is also an excellent place for fishing salmon. Certain tour operators also offer trips to Þórsmörk, and on the way to the setting of Njál’s Saga, they also stop at other natural wonders such as Seljalandsfoss waterfall and the Stakkholtsgjá gorge. They might also view the river Markar fljót, where Skarphéðinn avenged the death of Gunnar, which led to the burning of his entire family at their farm at Bergþórshvoll. If you are looking to go off the beaten path and see the country side of Iceland, while also learning about its history, a Njál’s Saga tour will certainly be the adventure of a lifetime. 1. Sail away Learn more about Viking maritime travel at the Saga Centre. 2. Viking Heritage The Centre allows visitors a glimpse of how a Viking Age chieftain would have lived. 3. Njál’s SagaThe Saga Centre focuses on the story of two friends, Njáll and Gunnar - known as Njál’s Saga,
64
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
The only 4 star hotel in Akureyri situated in the heart of town. With a respectable and friendly appearance the hotel offers 104 rooms, meeting rooms, restaurant and a bar. Museums, shops and restaurant are just around the corner!
HafnarstrĂŚti 87 - 89 | SĂmi 460 2000 | kea@keahotels.is | www.keahotels.is
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
65
Iceland Magazine Explains ask@icelandmag.com
C
M
Iceland Mag explains
Y
CM
Búrfell Hydropower Station is in South Iceland. Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
MY
CY
A visit to a stateof-the-art green energy power plants Question: Is it possible to visit some of Iceland’s green energy production power plants? Answer: Yes indeed. You can for example stop by at Reykjavík Energy’s Hellisheiðavirkjun power plant(www.orkusyn.is) within half an hour drive from Reykjavík. This is a state-of-the-art geothermal power plant with visiting area and a permanent exhibition where you are able to gain insight into renewable energy production and its use. The National Power Company of Iceland (www.landsvirkjun.is) opens up its doors to visitors during the summer months with visitor centers at three different power stations across the country. The Búrfell Hydropower Station was Iceland’s first power station and has been on-line since 1972. Þjórsá River is Iceland’s longest river. It is harnessed at Búrfell with a tailrace tunnel from the Bjarnarlón Reservoir to the powerhouse located in the Þjórsárdalur valley. Built by the Icelandic government, Kröflustöð Power Station (or Krafla Power Station) was bought by Landsvirkjun nearly 30 years ago. Located in North Iceland, southeast of Húsavík, the station is operated by high- and low-pressure steam from 18 boreholes, driving two 30 MW turbines
66
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
The Búrfell Hydropower Station was Iceland’s first power station and has been online since 1972.
Fljótsdalur Power Station, or Kárahnjúkarvirkjun is Iceland’s largest power station, producing a quarter of all electricity generated in the country. The station came on-line in 2007, four years after its construction started.
Drone Photography Question: Does Iceland have any restrictions or laws regarding the use of multi-rotor aircraft (i.e., “drones”) to do aerial photography? Answer: There have been some concerns lately regarding the use of drones, especially around issues of privacy and safety, and people seem to agree that some regulations should be created. However, drone usage is still unregulated in Iceland, so avid photographers looking to do aerial photography here shouldn’t run into any problems when it comes to using drones.
CMY
K
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
67
Iceland Magazine explains ask@icelandmag.com
Midges in Iceland Question: I have heard there are a lot of midges in Iceland at this time of year, is that correct? Answer: There are two types of midges found in Iceland: rykmý, known in English as chironomids or non-biting midges, and bitmý (simulium vittatum), which breed in rivers and are known to bite both humans and animals. Travelers can escape the midges by avoiding rivers and lakes. However, there are so many beautiful rivers and lakes in Iceland that we’d rather recommend you just bring a head net and some repellent along on your travels.
Vacuum-packed cured shark
Photo/Vilhelm Gunnarsson
Question: Is it possible to purchase hákarl, the fermented shark? If so, can it be acquired in a can or a vacuumsealed package? Answer: Most seafood stores in Reykjavík usually carry cured shark. We can recommend the one at Sundlaugavegur 12, 105 Reykjavík (tel +354 568 6002). It’s a great store with guys who know their trade. They have frozen cured shark in vacuum packs. You should take some brennivín (Iceland’s signature liquor) with it!
Taste of Shark Most seafood stores in Reykjavík carry fermented shark.
VIKINGSUSHI
FLATEY
THE BRIDGE TO THE
NATURE, BIRDS &
VISIT THIS
WESTFJORDS
EXPERIENCE YOU
CHARMING ISLAND
WILL NEVER FORGET
WHERE TIME STANDS STILL
SÍMI: 433 2254
ADVENTURE
WWW.SEATOURS.IS
Sæferðir - Smiðjustíg 3 - Stykkishólmur - Snæfellsnes
I
ask@icelandmag.com
FERRY BALDUR
68
What do you want to know about Iceland? Pick the brains of our experts and send us your questions.
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
ISLAND
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
69
My Neighbourhood – Breiðholt
Sonja bent lives with her husband, stepson and dog in the Breiðholt neighbourhood in Reykjavík. Photo/
A neighborhood with good views and better memories Sonja Bent is a fashion and textile designer based in Reykjavík. She recently opened UniKat, a collective design boutique located in the heart of Laugavegur, the city’s main thoroughfare. The boutique carries beautiful local design and knick knacks and selected items from Scandinavian and European designers. Sonja lives with her husband Árni Gústafsson, a recording artist, her stepson Daníel Kári and the dog Salka in the Breiðholt neighborhood in Reykjavík. Sonja describes the area as diverse, family friendly, and peaceful.
How long have you lived in the neighborhood? “Most of my life.” What‘s the best thing about your neighborhood? “It’s full of good childhood memories, our apartment is beautiful, and the area is quiet and close to nature.” Mention 3 places that are a must-see or do in your neighborhood and why?
70
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
1
2
3
“Breiðholtslaug swimming pool. I often go there to relax, swim a few laps, and gather my thoughts.” “Elliðaárdalur valley is nearby. I love to take Salka there for walks! A beautiful forest area surrounds the Elliðaá river, which is also a nice place for picnics.” “Just a few steps from my house there is a nice running trail that goes between Kópavogur, the neighboring town, and Breiðholt. No cars are visible from there, and you have a magnificent view over Reykjavík. You can see all the way to the Pearl and the church tower of
“The boutique carries beautiful local design and knick knacks and selected items from Scandi navian and European designers.”
Hallgrímskirkja in downtown Reykjavík.” Does the area have a famous landmark? “Elliðaárdalur valley.”
Elliðaárdalur is only a stones throw away.
Explore the wonders of
WESTMAN ISLANDS with Viking Tours
We offer wide variety of sightseeing tours and activities like: • • • • •
THE CIRCLE TOUR by boat: daily at 11:00 and 15:30 NATURAL HISTORY BUS TOUR: daily at 13:30 SURTSEY BOAT TOUR: Every Friday at 17:00 VOLCANIC HIKING TOUR (ca. 3,0 hours) And many more... Please check our website and facebook
And do not miss our lovely soup with bread at lunch time as well as coffee/tea at Café Kró.
WESTMAN ISLANDS
Phone +354-488-4884 www.vikingtours.is
www.facebook.com/VikingToursHeimaey
Iceland Mag / vol. #07 2014
I
71
WE‘LL TAKE YOU THERE!
The Golden Circle Tours! RE-04
The Golden Circle RE-24
Gullfoss, Geysir & Þingvellir
ALL THE MOST EXCITING PLACES IN ICELAND
- Afternoon Tour SRE-74
The Golden Circle & Fontana Wellness
Iceland, so very diffrent! More Tours available in our brochures BOOK NOW
at your reception
EXPO • www.expo.is
Free WiFi
BSÍ Bus Terminal 101 Reykjavík 580 5400 main@re.is www.re.is www.flybus.is
72
I
Iceland Magazine / vol. #07 2014
R O
AND ON OUR WEBSITE WWW.RE.IS
on www.re.is