I amsterdam Magazine summer 2019

G-STAR RAW / GUESS / LACOSTE / LEVI’S / NIKE / MICHAEL KORS POLO RALPH LAUREN / SAMSONITE / SKECHERS / SUITSUPPLY VINGINO / VAN BOMMEL / VILLEROY & BOCH AND MANY MORE

2 5 0 FA S H I O N B R A N D S | U P T O 7 0 % S AV I N G S | O P E N 7 D AY S A W E E K

What’s on

Outdoor eating Teetotal trends Summer shopping

Pride Amsterdam Red Light Jazz Holland Festival

Around town Visit Vondelpark Noord insider’s guide Amsterdam beaches

Magazine | The Summer Issue 2019

F o r yo u to d i s c ov e r

Eat & shop

Summer Issue

The Great Outdoors

B O O K YO U R S H O P P I N G S H U T T L E T I C K E T O N L I N E

Made by amsterdam & partners

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Have a nice stay

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Vol 2 #3 €4.95

THE OFFICIAL AMSTERDAM CITY MAGAZINE

09-05-19 13:39

Vincent van Gogh, Sunflowers (detail), 1889. Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation)

Plan your visit.

Book your tickets online

Van Gogh and the Sunflowers 21.06 - 01.09.2019

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It’s not just our 165 destinations that set us apart It’s our caring crew Mr Jackson is looking for things to do during his round trip through Asia.

Our stewardess is telling him about a delicious restaurant in Beijing she visited once. Mr Jackson will find his way. But if he doesn’t, we’re more than happy to share more first-hand travel tips with him - klm.com

iamsterdam.com/citycard

Contents

5

WELCOME TO AMSTERDAM

06 Outdoor Amsterdam GET SOME FRESH AIR!

Chill in the park, take a dip in the water, or catch an outdoor festival… summer in Amsterdam has something for everyone.

13 Your Trip MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY

Whether you’re in Amsterdam for 12 hours or a week, we’ve got the perfect itineraries for your trip this season.

19 Eat, Drink & Shop WHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM

The perfect spots for eating out of doors, refreshing drinks that won’t leave you hungover, and the chicest summer shopping.

35 What’s On YOUR AMSTERDAM AGENDA

© BETTINA NESEKER.NL

© MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

From the Red Light Jazz Festival to the biggest Pride parade in Europe, there’s always something to see and do in Amsterdam.

53 City Guide EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

This summer, visit hip industrial Noord.

Don’t miss our Vondelpark feature to make the most of the city’s most popular park.

65 Day Trips DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA

Hit the beach! Long (hopefully sunny) days and warm nights make Amsterdam’s beaches the perfect place to hang out.

FOR PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND MAP, TURN TO PAGE 78

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‘A

msterdam is a great city, it just needs a roof’, I once heard an American friend saying. I couldn’t argue with her. With an average of 185 days of rain per year (a little over half the year, mind you) our climate is probably not the first thing that attracted you to our city. But it has its upside too, and that is our sheer joy and thankful appreciation at seeing the first rays of sunshine land on our doorstep. Strolling along the canals, where gardens are scarce, you will see numerFor more ous Amsterdammers enjoying information about a rosé with family and friends Amsterdam, sitting on makeshift terracvisit our website: iamsterdam.com es on their front porch. Or anywhere for that matter: we challenge you to find any city in the northern hemisphere with more outdoor cafes and dining spots, city beaches, open-air theatres and film screenings as ours.

If you need guidance, look no further than this magazine. Our opening article is all about the many opportunities to enjoy Amsterdam al fresco. To begin with, we strongly advise you not to miss out on some of the free open-air performances at the Vondelpark Openluchttheater. Music, dance, comedy and even opera performances take place every Friday to Sunday in this al-fresco theatre in the middle of the gorgeous Vondelpark.

In August, you should definitely catch some of the 250 world-class concerts of classical and contemporary music on and along the canals as part of the famous Grachtenfestival. So get out there, enjoy it while it lasts, and bring an umbrella just in case.

Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam Magazine

Summer 6 | TEXT: MERRITT GURLEY

Vondelpark

Bring your own picnic blanket, available from HEMA for €7.50.

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Al Fresco Amsterdam From urban beaches and open-air festivals to sun-drenched decks and starlit cinemas, the Dutch capital has you (un)covered.

A

s spring showers give way to broad, blue skies, everyone in Amsterdam heads outdoors to enjoy the dog days of summer.

The lush life

There are more than 30 lovely, leafy parks scattered throughout the city and each has its own distinct character and activities to enjoy. Reach for your sunnies and grab your favourite wicker basket; it’s picnic season in Amsterdam and there’s a plethora of parks practically begging for you to throw down a chequered blanket.

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Head to Vondelpark for 47 hectares of rose gardens, grassy fields, duck-dotted ponds and world-class

playgrounds with kid-pleasing features like an elevated-bridge circuit, slides, zip lines, swings and climbing towers. There’s a wide, shallow pool for splashing around during the warmer months and the Blauwe Theehuis, Café Vertigo, De Vondeltuin and Groot Melkhuis offer tree-shaded tables where you can enjoy a hot bite or cold drink.

Home to the Westergasfabriek, a former gasworks that was completely renovated in recent years, Westerpark has something for everyone.

Jogging and cycling paths, a splash fountain, restaurants, cafés, theatres and festival venues make this a favourite summer hangout. Stop

by Buurtboerderij Ons Genoegen, a little city farm in a cute corner

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‘There are more than 300 festivals held in and around the city each year.’

Summer

Get decked out this summer with our roundup of the best terraces in Amsterdam...

8 | AL FRESCO AMSTERDAM of the park where you can pet barnyard beauties. Its giant garden will make you feel like you’re on a countryside holiday.

Bonus: from Tuesday to Sunday they serve a three-course menu for €9.50. Who knew a bucolic escape could come at such a bargain price?

Take the free ferry to Noord to spend an afternoon in Noorderpark. This recently renovated urban oasis is a fusion of Florapark and Volewijkspark, and the resulting space is broken up into five pavilions – the Yellow Pump, Pink Tanker, Pompet, Bloemenkwartier and Grand Café Noorderpark – that host a line-up of concerts and shows.

Top terraces

At the first blush of spring, sweaters are shed and every window is flung open. By summer it seems that skylights are popped ajar, all retractable roofs are retracted, and every wooden deck becomes a menagerie of makeshift seating in restaurants, bars and cafés across the city. Just a 10-minute walk from Central Station, yet still flying under the radar, Hannekes Boom makes for a charmingly eclectic hang-out on the

IAMSTERDAM.COM/TERRACES

banks of the Oosterdok. Built entirely from salvaged materials, this is one of Amsterdam’s best beer gardens, where locals and savvy visitors gather on sunny days to enjoy the funky vibes, good music and fresh-off-the-barbecue burgers. For an elevated outdoor dining experience, head to Restaurant Bureau, a rooftop terrace located on the fifth floor of B. Amsterdam – and with its abundance of potted plants and ivy-covered trellises, it feels more like a park than a patio, if only all parks came with such a great bird’s-eye view of the city. If you like your terraces a little more hardcore, check out Café Sound Garden on Marnixstraat. The interior of this local-secret dive bar is all rough edges and hard rock, but the garden terrace out the back has a wicker-furniture and waterfront charm that is oh-so-photographable.

vitamin D while you cool off with a refreshing swim.

Wild swimming

What better way to bask in the glow of the silver screen than under a glittering canopy of stars? On warm summer nights, skip the dark, stuffy cinema in favour of watching Hollywood favourites, cult classics and current blockbusters at Amsterdam’s outdoor movie

The Netherlands may be famous for its museums and historic architecture, but it also has more than 800 designated swimming areas, and in the Amsterdam area you’ll find a bevy of lakes, ponds and open-air pools where you can soak in some

Take a scenic bike ride to Het Twiske, a recreational park between Zaanstad and Purmerend that is linked to Amsterdam via a stunning cycle path. Along this stretch, there are more than ten swimming holes – Speelsloot, the Kure Jan Strand and the Doesstrand are worthy stops – where you can rent canoes, rowboats and sailboats to embark on your own adventure. Ouderkerkerplas, on the border of Amsterdam Zuidoost and Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, is a paradise for seasoned swimmers, while the sandy beaches, shallow shoreline and nearby playgrounds make it ideal for the whole family.

Silver screen by starlight

Urban beaches

Trust a country built on the water to know a thing or two about urban beaches. Just a short ferry ride from Amsterdam Central Station, Pllek waterfront bar comes complete with its own broad stretch of sand where partygoers flock in summer months to enjoy great food, DJs and a vibrant atmosphere. Dok, in Amsterdam’s Houthavens, has sand and outdoor fun aplenty with a playground and children’s yoga classes making it great for families. At Strand Zuid, a chic lakeside complex, there’s a stylish restaurant, a beer deck with table tennis, and a sandy party beach with loads of sunbathing spots.

Pllek

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Het Twiske

Garden party

Hortus Botanicus

The Dutch love a good garden, and you’ll find little horticultural havens woven throughout Amsterdam’s parks and residential areas. Perhaps the most impressive of the lot, Hortus Botanicus was established in 1638, making it one of the oldest botanical gardens in the world. Sneak a peek at lesser-known gardens hidden throughout the city on Open Garden Days, 14-16 June, when estate-owners across Amsterdam swing open their wrought-iron gates and allow the public to explore the secret gardens that lie within.

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INSIDER TIP

‘Hike the Kennemerland sand dunes to watch the sunrise from the lookout point, then stroll along the beach and have breakfast at one of the seafront beach clubs.’

Maarten Zwetsloot, owner of Surfana surf school

Summer

For more details on all things al fresco this summer, visit iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

10 | AL FRESCO AMSTERDAM

Open-air theatre

© JESJE VELING

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

From June through September, the Vondelpark Open-Air Theatre (openluchttheater.nl) presents a free programme packed with festivals, dance, cabaret, children’s theatre, stand-up comedy and music held in an open amphitheatre with bleacher-style seating.

Each weekend brings a variety of new performances with Friday evenings usually dedicated to dance shows; theatre by and for children on Saturday afternoons; while Saturday evenings offer standup comedy and music; and to round out your peaceful Sunday mornings, the park comes alive with mellifluous medleys of classical music.

Pure Markt

Market mania Heat up your summer with rare finds from pop-up markets across the city.

The once-a-month IJ-Hallen (ijhallen.nl) at the NDSM Wharf is one of the biggest flea markets in Europe; strolling its sprawling labyrinth of tents, stopping for snacks or enjoying a bit of live music along the way, makes for a lovely week-

end outing. The travelling Pure Markt (puremarkt.nl) that bounces between gorgeous parks, such as Amstelpark, Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest) and Frankendael Park, is a more intimate affair and focused largely on food, with more than 90 vendors selling a variety of sustainable, organic and artisanal products.

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INSIDER TIP

‘Amsterdam Wind ’n Wheels is one of my favourite weekend spots. Rent a land-sailing cart and let the wind power you across the sand, then refuel with lunch at Bij Storm.’

Liesbeth Hijmans van den Bergh, owner of Kidsproof Amsterdam

This is the birthplace of gin, so toast to the Dutch with a G&T this summer!

screenings, wind in your hair. World Cinema Amsterdam, from 15-24 August, shows more than 40 features and short films across four different open-air locations. Pluk de Nacht, or ‘seize the night,’ from 15 to 25 August, shows a thoughtfully curated assortment of movies that have never-before been screened in the Netherlands. The films are projected on a sky-high screen at Het Stenen Hoofd, a dreamy waterside spot decked out with pop-up chairs and campfires, where guests can also grab a bite to eat, a beer or cocktails. Towards the end of summer, from 15 to 21 September, West Beach Film Festival offers drinks, snacks and fabulous films next to Sloterplasbad swimming pool, for free.

Outdoor festivals All summer long there’s a rotating

roster of festivals held in the great outdoors, with something tailored to every taste, be it live music, film, food or just the chance to connect with nature. Grachtenfestival Amsterdam, held between 9 and 18 August, is a seasonal highlight, when Amsterdam’s famous canals set an idyllic backdrop for classical music. Concerts are performed on stages by – or even on – the water, as the musicians play on pontoons and the audience, lined along the bridges or lounging in their own boats, are treated to a perfectly Amsterdam experience.

Kwaku Summer Festival from 13 July to 4 August and Appelsap Fresh Music Festival on 10 August are multicultural celebrations of food, drinks, music and dancing. While Uitmarkt, at the end of August, is one of the country’s most popular cultural events

Summer fairs

with more than 300 performances – spanning classical, kid-friendly, hip-hop, dance, theatre, jazz and more – across 30 stages.

Want the festival vibe, hold the music?

Trek, a travelling line-up of food trucks slinging all manner of sweet and savoury snacks, hits Amsterdam on 12-14 July, bringing other entertainment along for the ride.

Each season in Amsterdam brings its own delights, from the twinkle of its wintry cityscapes to the wild colours of its flower-filled springs, but summer is truly the perfect time to explore the city’s many outdoor escapes. Wherever the summer breeze carries you, do as the Dutch do and savour the moments when de zon breekt door (the sun breaks through) to enjoy all the art, culture and festivities that are right outside your door.

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‘By summer, every wooden deck becomes a menagerie of makeshift seating in restaurants, bars and cafés across the city’.

© KOEN SMILDE

The kermis (funfair) travels across Amsterdam year-round, but it always seems like the cotton candy tastes a little sweeter and the merry-go-round spins a little faster in these sunny summer months. From a towering Ferris wheel and amusement rides to duck-fishing games that dangle the promise of a giant plush prize. Fuelling the reverie is a smorgasbord of Dutch sweet treats, including the fried-andfluffy oliebollen and poffertjes.

© KOEN SMILDE

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Hey Amsterdam, /whats-on The ultimate guide to discover what’s on in Amsterdam.

iamsterdam.com/whats-on

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Twelve Hours Twenty-four Hours Forty-eight Hours Seventy-two+ Hours

How to spend your time in 12, 24, 48 or 72+ hours

Catch a concert in Vondelpark

Hear live music echoing through the trees on summer weekends in Vondelpark. A varied programme of performances take to the stage tucked away in the centre of the park, ranging from dance and comedy to film screenings and children’s entertainment. Enjoy it all for a voluntary donation.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

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Your Trip

12

14 | TEXT: ALISON MCGARRY

hours in Amsterdam

Whether it’s a whirlwind trip or a long luxurious stay, make the most of every hour in Amsterdam with our guide to what to see and do.

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© NADYA PEEK

How to spend your time in…

Try a local delicacy

Raw herring may sound a little scary to the uninitiated, but give it a go. You’ll spot haringhandels (herring stalls) serving up this Dutch speciality all over the city – ask for a broodje haring to get the fish served in a small sandwich with pickled gherkins and onions.

DURATION: 30 MINUTES

Find your perfect fit

Take a canal cruise for a snapshot of the must-see points of interest around the city. Order your canal cruise ticket online: iamsterdam.com/ canalcruise or get a free canal cruise with the I amsterdam City Card. Or, captain your own ship by hiring a boat (you don’t need a boat licence for smaller boats).

DURATION: 2 HOURS

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Sail away

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Amsterdam is known as the denim capital of the world, and the stylish locals are masters of off-duty dressing. Find your perfect pair of jeans from Amsterdam-based brands like Denham, G-Star Raw and sustainable brand Kings of Indigo at boutiques across the city.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

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Go plant-based

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Take envy-inducing photographs by wandering through the Jordaan and Negen Straatjes (‘nine little streets’).

These cobblestone streets are home to chic eateries, fashion stores and art galleries.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

© JEROEN SMILDE

Snap your own postcard

Admire a masterpiece

See spectacular paintings by influential Dutch artists at the famous Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh Museum. If modern art is more your thing, head to the Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam’s modern art Mecca (all free with the I amsterdam City Card).

Amsterdam’s culinary scene is ever-changing, and vegetarian and vegan restaurants are on the up and up. Check out Meatless District, Vegan Junk Food Bar or the Dutch Weed Burger Joint, to name a few local favourites.

DURATION: 1.5 HOURS

DURATION: 2 HOURS

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© EDWIN VAN EIS

Take home a piece of history

Browse more than 70 specialised antiques dealers in Spiegelkwartier, ranging from archaeological finds to Art Nouveau pieces and Delftware pottery.

DURATION 2 HOURS

hours in Amsterdam

Peek into secret spaces

The city is filled with hidden courtyards and points of interest that require a closer look – like the Begijnhof and its ancient chapel hidden behind the Spui and away from the busy shopping streets.

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

© ALEJANDRO CC BY 2.0

DURATION: 30 MINUTES

16 | MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TRIP

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Your Trip

Shop for authentic Dutch design and sustainable Amsterdam brands at The Maker Store in De Hallen.

Lose yourself in nature

As one of the world’s oldest botanical gardens, Hortus Botanicus in Amsterdam’s Plantage neighbourhood is a leafy sanctuary for exotic plants. See towering cacti, giant waterlilies and a house of exotic butterflies, then treat yourself to coffee and cake in the café afterwards.

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DURATION: 2 HOURS

hours in Amsterdam

Follow the sun

Find a sunny spot on a terrace and guard it until the sun goes down at local institutions like Hannekes Boom, Edel and Waterkant.

IAMSTERDAM.COM/CITY-CARD

© RONALD HOEBEN

Get your I amsterdam City Card at one of our visitor centres (see page 78) for free entry to many of Amsterdam’s museums and attractions, plus great discounts and special offers.

© MARK RICHTER

© KOEN SMILDE

DURATION: 4 HOURS

Sustainable dining

De Kas offers a dining experience that is so close to nature you will feel positively virtuous (even after three courses with wine pairings!). Step into a beautiful former greenhouse and be treated to the chef’s menu made up of ingredients fresh from the restaurant’s own gardens.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

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Go festival mad

Around 300 festivals take place in Amsterdam every year, and in summer you’re spoiled for choice. Partygoers can choose from a huge selection of music, theatre and cultural festivals almost every weekend.

DURATION: ALL NIGHT

Admire the 17th-century architecture and sprawling grounds of Frankendael House, Amsterdam’s only remaining country estate from the Dutch Golden Age.

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Hit the slope

Get the best view of the city from the sloping rooftop of the NEMO Science Museum (free with the I amsterdam City Card). The futuristic building is a feat of modern architecture in itself.

© BAS UTERWIJK

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Sunbake at the beach

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Catch a film under the stars

Stay ahead of Hollywood’s latest at the open-air film festivals that pop up around the city in late summer. Grab a blanket and head to various venues around the city including beaches, rooftops and parks.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

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© LAURA VAN DER PLAS

DURATION: 4 HOURS

DURATION: 3-4 HOURS

hours in Amsterdam

Go back in time

Take a day trip to the Zuiderzee Museum in Enkhuizen, where you can explore an authentic fishing village as it would have been in the 17th century. It’s a great family day out with plenty of interactive children’s activities.

A beach holiday is just a hop, skip and train (or bus) ride away.

Popular beach resorts Bloemendaal and Zandvoort aan Zee are lined with beachfront bars and cafés for lazy summer afternoons.

Meet Pepper, the human robot

18 | ADVERTORIAL

Travel the World at Tropenmuseum Amsterdam’s Tropenmuseum is a museum of world cultures, housed in one of the Netherlands’ most beautiful buildings, off the beaten tourist track in Amsterdam’s hip east.

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n the Tropenmuseum, you will find amazing objects from all over the globe, each with its own story. You will travel over the world and across time, encountering a wide range of cultures from the present and the past.

Cool Japan: from Hello Kitty to samurai

A must-see this summer is the Cool Japan exhibition. It showcases the world’s fascination with all things

Japanese: from Hello Kitty to samurai, and from well-known Japanese horror to kawaii fashion from the streets of Tokyo. Not only is there lots to see, there’s also lots to do. Visitors can game to their hearts’ content on Japanese arcade machines or converse with Pepper, the human robot. For fans of comic books and graphic novels, there are thousands of mangas to choose from for a good read. Cool Japan will be on display until 1 September 2019.

Tropenmuseum: Museum of World Cultures • Address: Linnaeusstraat 2, Amsterdam • Open: Tue-Sun 10 am-5 pm (and on Mondays during school holidays) • Admission: €16 for adults, €10 for students, €8 for children (aged 4-18) • Free with Museum Card, I amsterdam City Card or Holland Pass • For more information visit tropenmuseum.nl

20 Outdoor Eating 22 Latin Flavour 23 Local Rum 24 Scenic Shopping 26 Pizza Party 27 Fine Dining 28 Chic Shopping 30 Sustainable Dining 31 Teetotal Drinks 32 Central Shopping

Where to indulge in Amsterdam The Food Department Tucked away on the top floor of the monumental Magna Plaza is Amsterdam’s newest high-end food hall, boasting 16+ food stands and three bars. Highlights include Bepita’s arais (house-made pitas stuffed with spiced lamb), Van ’t Spit’s flavourful rotisserie chicken, Ta Toru’s Moluccan lemongrassskewered satay, and Sushito’s picture-perfect poké bowls.

@ MOKUMISTA

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@ MOKUMISTA

Eat

20 | TEXT: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

Restaurant Merkelbach

In a former coach house in Frankendael Park, with a terrace overlooking the romantic landscaped gardens of Amsterdam’s last manorial estate, sits a Slow Food restaurant with dependably good food (three-course lunch menu €32). Since opening his restaurant over a decade ago, owner Geert Burema, the initiator of the Slow Food Chefs Alliance in the Netherlands, has offered his guests ‘delicious, pure and honest food’ made with ‘authentic, sustainably produced, regional quality products’.

MIDDENWEG 72 RESTAURANTMERKELBACH.NL

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Get the very best of the season on your plate at Restaurant Merkelbach, like crisp-skinned sea bass with wilted spinach, sea lavender and North Sea shrimp.

&Klevering’s playful bamboo plates are the perfect pick-me-up for any picnic (€27.80 for a set of four).

HAARLEMMERSTRAAT 8 KLEVERING.COM

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Café Americain

Eating Outside Our guide to the best courtyard terraces, park patios and waterside tables in Amsterdam for al fresco dining.

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eemingly endless summer days are one of the great advantages of summering in Northern Europe. On the longest day (21 June), you’ll be able to enjoy almost 17 hours of daylight, and if the sun’s out there’s no better way to enjoy the weather than to dine out of doors.

Some of Amsterdam’s best terrasjes (terraces) are easy to spot, like the Leidseplein-adjacent patio at American Hotel Amsterdam with its famous fountain adorned with fish. Others, such as L’Invité le Restaurant and Stork can be stumbled upon while exploring the city’s quaint canals and wide open waterways. But a few of our favourites, such as De Kas and Mossel & Gin, are ensconced in parks or hidden in the secret courtyards of old monuments, like the pretty patios of Dignita Hoftuin, De Vergulden Eenhoorn, Lion Noir and The College Terrace.

Whether you prefer to be by the water, surrounded by greenery, or overlooking the hustle and bustle of city life, we’ve highlighted a few tried-and-tested terraces across town, where you can relax, unwind and enjoy some fabulous food and drink.

Head to this historical street-side terrace to order MRIJ-beef steak tartare, Dutch shrimp cocktail, entrecôte steak frites, Zeeland bouillabaisse, or one of the many other ‘modern classics’ on offer.

LEIDSEPLEIN 28 CAFEAMERICAIN.NL

ARC. by Lute

Savour clean, modern cuisine (think pulpo terrine with tomato consommé, macadamia nut crunch and herbs, €22) under the shade of a 100-year-old tree in the garden of the 1892 former city archiveturned-five star hotel.

AMSTELDIJK 67, ARC.AMSTERDAM

© RESTAURANT MERKELBACH

De Belhamel Pick up affordable outdoor eating essentials at HEMA (pointed-stem wine glasses set, €3).

NIEUWENDIJK 174-176 HEMA.NL

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This romantic mainstay combines dependable French-Italian fare with views of Amsterdam’s prettiest waterways, and a beautiful Belle Époque interior with plenty of original Art Nouveau details.

BROUWERSGRACHT 60 BELHAMEL.NL

Eat & Drink

22 | SOUTH AMERICAN RESTAURANTS

Wester Wijnfabriek x Amsterdam Arepa’s brings authentic Venezuelan arepas (cornmeal flatbreads stuffed with fillings like beef and farmer’s cheese, €7.50) to Westerpark.

PAZZANISTRAAT 10 WESTERWIJNFABRIEK.NL

Flora

At this unassuming shack hidden in plain sight in a westside park, the tacos come with creative toppings, such as cactus with roasted corn, nutty macha salsa and chipotle mayo.

The city’s best nachos are loaded with zesty queso fresco, crema, black-bean paste, salsa roja, tomatillo, and coriander with shaved radish and onion.

BILDERDIJKPARK 1A FACEBOOK.COM/FLORAAMSTERDAM

Latin Food Fest

EERSTE SWEELINCKSTRAAT 10A ESCOBAR.NU

@ ESCOBAR

Escobar

Once a municipal bathhouse, now a vibey Latin Bistro.

Venezuelan chef Fernando Paez Magro’s food travels fearlessly across the Latin-American world, with everything from raw fish specialities like ceviche and tiradito to pulled pork tacos, and BBQ leek with Romesco sauce. Tip: Grab a table on the street terrace or go for the ‘Perfect Pintxos Night’ (with salsa music) on Wednesdays.

Roses by Sal

Unbeatable for its buzzing vibe, Pisco-based drinks and pan-Latin food from ‘the streets of Buenos Aires, the markets of Lima and the palenques of Mexico’. If mezcal’s more your thing, head to the Uzcudun brothers’ other establishment, Salmuera, instead.

REGULIERSDWARSSTRAAT 40 ROSES-AMSTERDAM.NL

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Offering everything from the cool tangy flavours of ceviche and Pisco sours to the rich seared savour of grilled meats and beef-stuffed pastries, there’s something about Latin American food that just screams summer. Sample South America’s best at these Amsterdam eateries.

Amsterdam-blended William George white rum offers a local taste of the tropics (€37.95)

Without a palm tree or pirate in sight, domestic rum may be an unexpected discovery in Amsterdam.

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ctually, this city’s been at the centre of the rum trade for centuries, and the head office of E&A Scheer (est.

1712), the world’s biggest master blender of rum, is still housed on historical Herengracht.

But while the sugarcane-based spirit is slated to be ‘the next gin’, building a Dutch rum brand is something few have attempted. One of these pioneers, Andrew Nicholls, a prize-winning bartender and co-founder of William George™ (williamgeorgerum.com) explains its appeal: ‘Rum has a history that is equally evil and

enchanting. It evokes images of relaxation and fun, without being pretentious. And, as a category, it’s incredibly diverse.’ At the crowdfunded new Spirited Union Distillery (spirited-union.com) in sleepy Zuid, bulbous copper pots and a faint aroma of the Caribbean hint at ‘the world’s first distillery completely focused on botanically infused rum’. For tastings, make your way to the rum lounge at Roses by Sal (roses-amsterdam.nl), Caribbean bar Rum Barrel (rumbarrel.nl) or newly opened Hawaiian tiki bar Hula Hula (hula-hula.nl).

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@ SPIRITED UNION DISTILLERY

Local Rum

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Shop

24 | SCENIC SHOPPING

Shopping District: Negen Straatjes • Jordaan • Haarlemmerstraat/dijk

Retail Paradise Stroll through the higgledy-piggledy streets of Amsterdam’s most picturesque shopping district.

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ou’ll find a dazzling range of specialty shops and high-end fashion retailers selling local jeans, Dutch design, modern art, handcrafted jewellery, artisan food and vintage everything in the famous Negen Straatjes (‘nine little streets’ that connect the main canals), the Jordaan and the Haarlemmerstraat/dijk.. With its charming Golden Age canals, historic gingerbread-like houses and winding lanes, this part of Amsterdam is a true joy to discover on foot. Tip: do take the time to discover the many hidden hofjes (former almshouse courtyards) dotted around the district during your shopping downtime.

Marie-Stella-Maris

With its movie-star looks (think blackand-white bottles against a cinema lightbox wall) and watertight cause (part of the profits go towards clean drinking water projects worldwide), this is the place to pick up natural care products and home fragrances like the fresh, citrusy Objets d’Amsterdam (€39).

KEIZERSGRACHT 357 MARIE-STELLA-MARIS.COM

Zenza Home Accessories

Bring some bohemian summer vibes into your home with handmade rattan tables, tactile home textiles, exotic engraved mirrors and Zenza Home’s signature contemporary Egyptian filigree brass lamps that create a beautifully patterned interplay of light and shadow.

See the summer through rose-tinted sunglasses The Trinity 03 from the Third Eye Collection by Moooi x Gentle Monster (€330).

WESTERSTRAAT 187 MOOOI.COM

HAARLEMMERSTRAAT 89 ZENZAHOME.COM

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Gray Label is known for its GOTS-certified unisex kids’ clothing (ages 0-10).

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Love Stories

Bored with only the ‘sporty spice’ or ‘tutu-romance’ options offered by the makers of traditional lingerie, former interior designer Marloes Hoedeman set out to design ‘lingerie as versatile as women are’. Characterised by playfully mismatched fabrics, like this summery hand-painted lemon bralette with a contrasting scalloped lace trim and matching ruched tanga-style briefs (€90 as pictured), it’s sexy, but not overtly so.

HERENGRACHT 298 LOVESTORIESINTIMATES.COM

BEST HIDDEN SHOPPING STREET:

Westerstraat

This former canal is home to a Monday morning flea market and an organic farmer’s market on Saturdays. You’ll also find the showroom of a famous Dutch design brand, a vintage furniture store, an excellent Italian deli, a charming toy store, the city’s bestloved apple pie and more.

INSIDER INTERVIEW Emily Gray (35), founder of Gray Label ‘While we’re around the corner from one of Amsterdam’s most famous shopping areas, I didn’t set out to choose this location. I lived in this street, and both my brand and my kids (my inspiration) were born here. When this corner shop became available, I saw an opportunity to create a place where kids and their parents would enjoy shopping. We have little hidden treasures in the store for children to play with, while their parents discover our universe. Nowadays, more and more people long for good-quality, eco-friendly, print-free kids clothing in muted tones. We offer that in a full range of colours, sizes and styles. We also sell a few other selected brands with similar values; some are locally produced, others made from raw or natural materials, or have an extraordinary vision, but all of them are things you can’t easily find elsewhere.’

OUDE LOOIERSSTRAAT 44 GRAY-LABEL.COM

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26 | BEST PIZZA

© MOKUMISTA

Eat

Try Turkish pizza (baked flatbread topped with minced veal, onions, tomatoes, parsley and aromatic spices) at Leeman Döner (€5).

VAN WOUSTRAAT 160 LEEMANDONER.NL

Perfect Pizza Parlours From certified Neapolitan to vegan and by-the-slice, with an added helping of the latest bakery science, here are the best places in Amsterdam to get your pizza fix. nNea Pizza

Pizza Beppe

Combining age-old Neapolitan traditions with modern bakery science and 38-hour rising times, this new pizzeria impresses with impossibly light and fluffy crusts. While the ‘Margherita’ is hands-down the best in town, we also love the creative ‘Cabo Noord’ with cod, Taggia olives, fried capers, lemon and San Marzano cherry tomatoes. There’s also a small wine list of wonderful, yet affordable, Campanian wines.

With boasting rights as the first Amsterdam restaurant to be certified by the prestigious Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, you can rest assured that the pizzas at this nattily designed restaurant, which recently opened in Watergraafsmeer, are prepared the authentic Neapolitan way.

MIDDENWEG 23 PIZZABEPPE.NL

Toni Loco Pizza

With pizzas as big as bicycle wheels, Amsterdam's first serious slice joint slings sesame seed-studded crusts blistered in a 350-degree oven with ‘Italian-American-style’ toppings like ‘Pepperoni’ and the spinach-based ‘Popeye’.

While popular with kids and teens, grown-ups will enjoy the premium Champagne, wine and beer, too.

BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 92 NNEAPIZZA.COM

Mastino V

This 100% gluten-free and plant-based pizza specialist uses vegan cheeses, premium vegetables from the South of Italy and a ‘secret recipe’ crust that tastes as good as the real thing, so no one has to miss out.

BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 192 MASTINOPIZZA.NL

ALBERT CUYPSTRAAT 59 TONILOCOPIZZA.COM

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Husband-and-wife team Peter Gast and Jacqueline van Liere (formerly of ’t Schulten Hues* in Zutphen) are the creators of ‘the Netherlands’ first speak-easy restaurant’, Graphite.

No Rough Diamond Secreted away in a former diamond factory on a forgotten street off Rembrandtplein, it’s almost impossible not to call Graphite a ‘hidden gem’.

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he most interesting thing about Michelin-starred chef Peter Gast’s ‘speak-easy restaurant’ isn’t its much-talked-about gimmick, which requires a QR code to enter its secret location. Instead, it’s the combination of luxurious intimacy, understated food theatre and exciting cuisine that surprises and delights diners here. With seven comfy candlelit tables for two set against a dark, richly textured decor, the atmosphere is one of romance – not a common adjective in this minimalist-

loving land – yet with four chefs’ stations scattered about there’s plenty to entertain should you not be feasting your eyes on the pretty plates in front of you (or your date). A flirty signature dish of flowers, herbs and veggies (pictured) signals the start of your meal and prepares the palate for the pleasures to come: brilliant, bright and beautiful food with exciting contrasts and textures and (often) surprising ingredients (tasting menus start at €75).

GRAPHITE.AMSTERDAM

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Shop

Available at TASCHEN: Rembrandt. The Complete Drawings and Etchings (€150).

28 | SOUTHERN STAR

TASCHEN Store Amsterdam

Sandwiched between Mulberry and Lacoste on Amsterdam’s poshest street is the official Amsterdam store of the famous German publishing house that’s equally known for producing some of the world’s most expensive art books and promoting underexposed artists through its more affordable Icons series. You’ll find beautiful books covering genres such as photography, design, film, fashion, lifestyle and architecture here.

P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 44, TASCHEN.COM

Shopping District: Zuid • Museum Quarter • De Pijp The Society Shop

This Museum District mainstay has built a reputation for affordable made-to-measure men’s suiting. With expert tailors and over 300 fabrics from the world’s finest weaving mills to choose from, The Society Shop’s flagship store is a dandy’s paradise. While its philosophy is centred on timeless style over fashion, lovers of funky prints, trainers and bold colours should also have a look-in.

VAN BAERLESTRAAT 20 THESOCIETYSHOP.COM

Chic Shopping Follow the money to Zuid with its high-end fashion and age-old art.

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his stylish neighbourhood rewards the discerning visitor at every turn, from the splendour of Museumplein, home to some of the world’s best art museums, to the glamour of the P.C. Hooftstraat (known locally as the P.C. or ‘pay say’), where you’ll find all the most exclusive names in fashion. It’s an elegant mix of resV I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

idential and retail, with beautiful boutiques and impressive manors lining leafy streets.

For respected specialists and chic local brands, do check out Van Baerlestraat or, if you’ve a taste for artisan food, head to the ZuiderMRKT farmer’s market, held on Saturdays behind the Royal Concertgebouw, before picnicking in nearby Vondelpark.

Gold-plated earrings, bracelets and necklaces (€20-75 each at ATLITW).

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BEST HIDDEN SHOPPING STREET:

Cornelis Schuytstraat

While nearby P.C. Hooftstraat is the famous splurging spot for luxe labels, this charming street − often described as ‘a slice of Paris’ − offers more avant-garde and niche premium fashion and beauty boutiques, a designer vintage store, artisanal food and drink specialists, and the city’s fanciest flower shop and greengrocers.

INSIDER INTERVIEW Nina van den Maagdenberg (28), goldsmith and co-founder of All the Luck in the World (ATLITW)

Steppin’ Out

This ‘House of Classics’ proves the popular line that while fashions fade, style’s eternal. You’ll find an own-label line of casual M/F clothing – think button-down shirts, knitted polos, linen jackets, and chinos – and select brands such as Saint James stripy tees, Izipizi sunglasses, Cero jeans and Dutch label Josephine & Co (houndstooth jacket, €169.90, and trousers, €129.90, pictured).

BEETHOVENSTRAAT 52 STEPPINOUT.NL

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‘When we opened our first store on Gerard Doustraat it was still an unknown shopping street, but we saw its potential and worked with our neighbours to create the inspiring retail destination it’s become.

I’ve been able to do what I love for over six years, which resulted in a (jewellery) brand, three Amsterdam stores and a web shop. When designing for ATLITW Studio, I’m inspired

by Amsterdam and its people, but also by my travels and the latest fashion and decor trends.

Our jewellery collection is made of sterling silver-plated or 18K gold-plated brass. It’s an affordable line, with something for everyone. What fits within the concept of our store [a mix of old and new, own-brand and curated brands] is really about a feeling. Would I want to own or wear it myself? Is it an eyecatcher and does it offer good value for money?’

GERARD DOUSTRAAT 86 ALLTHELUCKINTHEWORLD.NL

Bluespoon Bar & Restaurant

Eat

uses kitchen scraps to create its inventive monthly ‘Close the Loop’ cocktail with a bite pairing (€12).

PRINSENGRACHT 587 BLUESPOON-RESTAURANT.NL

30 | ECO-FRIENDLY FOOD

Sustainable Restaurants While many Amsterdam restaurants jumped on the seasonalslash-farm-to-table bandwagon years ago, some are stepping up their sustainable game by paying even closer attention to ingredient sourcing and finding new ways to cook (often with less meat, and more veg) while being mindful of food waste.

De Kas

Vermeer

In Frankendael Park is a renovated 1926 greenhouse, where the Netherlands’ farm-to-table movement was born back in 2001. The Med-led set menu (from €35.50) changes based on whatever organic produce the chefs have harvested that day, and the views of the surrounding herb garden and park remain unparalleled.

For artfully presented produceforward plates fresh from his summertime rooftop kitchen garden, turn to Vermeer’s Michelin-starred executive chef Chris Naylor (Gault & Millau’s Vegetable Chef of the Year 2019).

He says: ‘For me, it’s logical to work with the seasons. Call it sustainable – it’s just what we’ve always done.’

KAMERLINGH ONNESLAAN 3 RESTAURANTDEKAS.NL

PRINS HENDRIKKADE 59-72 RESTAURANTVERMEER.NL

La Lotteria

BEETHOVENSTRAAT 200 LALOTTERIA.THECOLOURKITCHEN.COM

Experimental Gastronomy

@ IVO GESKUS

From its fully sustainable building decor and collabs with food waste-busters to optimise the local, seasonal ingredients used in the kitchen, to hiring practices that provide opportunities to the socially disadvantaged, everything’s green at the Italian restaurant of the Dutch Postcode Lottery.

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Superstar chef André Chiang creates an eight-course organic vegan tasting menu (€175) in collaboration with 15 artists who craft custom cutlery and tableware for this immersive experience from 14-16 June, which aims to ‘disrupt the conventions of dining’.

DIEMERZEEDIJK 27 STEINBEISSER.ORG

Mildly bitter and refreshing, the new low-alcohol wine cocktail Amsterdam Tinto (gift set with two glasses, €9.95) is available at the I amsterdam Store.

AMSTERDAM CENTRAL STATION IJ-SIDE IAMSTERDAM.COM/I-AMSTERDAM-STORE

No/Low ABV Teetotalism is trending with more new low- and no-alcohol drinks available now than ever before.

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esearch shows that the global decline in alcohol consumption has quadrupled in recent years as more consumers ditch drinking to detox or live cleaner lifestyles. Good news even for those of us who only occasionally embrace sobriety because it’s brought more exciting drink options to our menus and shop shelves. Particularly on-trend

are tea-based drinks like the new wildfermented Dutch kombucha brand Butcha (butcha.nl). Local craft brewer Lowlander Beer (lowlander-beer.com) recently released two 2.5% botanical tea-infused beers and a citrusy 0.00% witbier. And 100% Natural Blue Tea with butterfly pea flowers by Crusio (thee.crusio.nl) answers people’s need

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for ‘something special in their glass, preferably with a striking taste or colour, a special background story or impressive health benefits’, according to tea sommelier Kiona Malinka. Healthier soft drinks are another development, like ‘live ginger lemonade’ by AARD’G (aardg.nl) – an organic, sugar-free and naturally fermented drink with a turmeric-cayenne kick.

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Shop

Scandi-chic cross-body HVISK bag available from We Are Labels (€69.95).

32 | CENTRAL SHOPPING

Shopping District: Kalverstraat • Utrechtsestraat• Czaar Peterstraat

Centrum Ahoy!

Visit the famous department stores and Kalverstraat high street or explore the area’s many hidden gems.

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ith a full range of flagship stores, major fashion chains and discounters, Kalverstraat has everything on board for an ideal shopping day out – that is, if you can bear to brave the crowds. If, however, you prefer doing all your shopping under one (air-conditioned) roof, head to the nearby Dam Square area to hit premium department stores de Bijenkorf or Hudson’s Bay. Or set out to explore one of Amsterdam’s best-kept secrets, the Czaar Peterstraat, where specialist food and drink shops sit next to artsy concept stores and hip indie boutiques.

We Are Labels

With its 12th outpost, this multi-brand mini-chain brings on-trend fashion to the antiques district. You’ll find Dutch, French and Scandinavian fashion and accessories labels here (M/F, think mbyM, Edited, Veja, Casual Friday, Another-Label and Nümph). With eight annual collections, most of it priced under €80, it’s worth a visit.

NIEUWE SPIEGELSTRAAT 23 WEARELABELS.COM

GUBI’s Palm Tree Beetle Lounge Chair (€2,839 at Mobilia) adds a dash of summer style.

UTRECHTSESTRAAT 62-64 MOBILIA.NL

Sjoerd Vis

In a handsome former coach house in the Western Canal District, self-titled ‘browfectionist’ Sjoerd Vis specialises in ‘faceshape’ brow treatments with sharply defined underlines and ombre top line fades. It’s a natural slug-free effect that always perfectly matches your skin tone and hair colour.

Choose from a temporary henna treatment (€42.50) or (semi-)permanent eyebrows (€425).

LANGESTRAAT 47A SJOERDVIS.COM

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Shoppers by Susan Bijl at de werkwinkel +meer (from €24.90).

33 Get your chocolate-vanilla cheesecake fix in frozen form this summer at Cheesy Cakes (€4.50).

@ ITROUVA

UTRECHTSEDWARSSTRAAT 71 CHEESYCAKES.NL

INSIDER INTERVIEW Lian Aelmans (35), founder of de werkwinkel +meer, a concept store focused on art, prints and ceramics.

Nelson

Head to Nieuwendijk for premium streetwear and athleisure brands for the whole family. We love the Claire trainer with its thick rubber sole and pony-skin detailing (€129.99, pictured) from Dutch brand Maruti’s latest collection, but there are plenty of other international names and local labels to pick from.

NIEUWENDIJK 208-210 NELSON.NL

MUST-VISIT SHOPPING STREET:

© MOKUMISTA

Utrechtsestraat

This local’s favourite offers the proverbial butcher, baker and (designer) candlestick maker and so much more, from trendy vegan streetwear boutiques to painfully chic galleries, as well as quirky gift shops, a kitchenware store, several jewellers, a vinyl specialist and a marble apothecary-style coffee shop where staff wear bow-ties.

‘I opened my shop over four years ago on Czaar Peterstraat, a charming shopping street with a niche offering, away from the busy city centre. Here, there is room for creativity and time to give shoppers the attention they need. You won’t find the big brands and overly commercial retailers in this area, but instead local, small entrepreneurs with a story to tell. I share a downstairs studio with illustrator Anne Stooker, and you’ll find work from both of us in the shop. In addition, I like to search for clean, graphically inspired objects and designs that fit within my overall aesthetic. Currently, I have a crush on the ‘hairy legs’ vases by the artist I Like Making Stuff, and I always have a selection of Moebe frames and jewellery by Studio MHL in-store, as well as our bestselling shopping bags by Susan Bijl.’

CZAAR PETERSTRAAT 104 DEWERK-WINKEL.NL

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TOP 5 ➋

I amsterdam Store Amsterdam Central Station, IJ-side

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➊ STADSPLANK The Stadsplank (‘City Plank’) is a chopping board made from a tree that was felled in the city. Each unique board is engraved to tell you exactly what species it was and where it was rooted. €29.95

➍ WASTEBOARD SKATEBOARD Plastic pollution is a growing problem, but WasteBoards is turning the tide with their skateboards. Made from discarded bottle caps collected at music festivals and fished from Amsterdam canals. €149.95

➋ AMSTERDAM TINTO There’s a new drink in town. A highquality, low-alcohol wine cocktail with a mildly bitter freshness. Amsterdam Tinto was inspired by the Andalusian Tinto de Verano, but it’s less sweet and more aromatic. €9.95

➎ KRNWTR The designers of these reusable bottles, sustainable wooden coolers and organic syrups have been doing their part to save the planet. KRNWTR created a solution for the 50,000 plastic water bottles thrown away each day in the Netherlands alone. Now you can drink tap water in style.

Glass €3.50 | Jug €14.95 Re-usable bottle €14.95

➌ V@ AMSTERDAM The Amsterdam canal house cusions are eco-friendly and handcrafted in Europe. €60 - €100

#iamsterdamstore

Dates for your Amsterdam agenda For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

36 Exhibitions 38 Collections 39 Classical 40 Festivals & Events 42 On Stage 44 On Screen 45 Clubbing 46 Pop & Rock 48 LGBTI & Pride 50 Family Fun

Pride Amsterdam

© CRIS TAOL A OLIVARES

One of the biggest celebrations of LGBTI pride in the world, Amsterdam’s Pride festival sees hundreds of thousands of people pour into the city to celebrate the LGBTI community. With its world-famous canal parade, dozens of festivals and a vibrant rainbow of events across the city’s venues, Pride is the perfect place to learn more about Amsterdam’s dedication to diversity.

27 JULY-4 AUGUST, CIT Y-WIDE

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Exhibitions

© GLENN BROWN COLLECTION, REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM

36 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Inspired by Rembrandt

Silver Lake Drive

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omen play the leading role in Alex Prager’s highly stylised and hyperreal photographs where nothing is left to chance. Every element is carefully considered in her meticulously designed mise en scène images, where models and actors create film-like stills that speak of alienation. Prager is no stranger to Amsterdam after winning the Foam Paul Huf Award in 2012. This will be her second exhibition at Foam, and will feature over ten years of photo and video work.

© ‘HOPE’, 2005, ERWIN OL AF

14 JUNE-4 SEPTEMBER, FOAM

12 X ERWIN OLAF The Rijks has acquired key pieces from Dutch photographer Erwin Olaf.

Twelve photos have been paired with paintings from the museum’s collection to illustrate the inspiration on the photographer’s illustrious career. The list includes Rembrandt, Jan Steen, Breitner and others.

3 JULY-22 SEPTEMBER RIJKSMUSEUM

This exhibition presents a terrific opportunity to see the most remarkable Rembrandt works of art from the Rembrandt House Museum’s collection. Many of the works are graphic, and highlight the master’s draughtsmanship and technical know-how. But that’s not all: it also highlights Rembrandt’s influence on a range of big-name modern and contemporary artists, including Hercules Segers, Edgar Degas, Pablo Picasso, Horst Janssen, Willem den Ouden, Charles Donker and Glenn Brown. Works vary in scale, age and type providing a fascinating and intriguing chance to witness just how Rembrandt has inspired, and continues to inspire, generations of artists.

7 JUNE-1 SEPTEMBER REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM

THE LAST PET Museum Tot Zover presents contemporary work by artists responding to a growing trend in the Netherlands: the death of animals. The Last Pet pays homage to animals and considers not only the grieving process, but also our indifference to disappearing species.

13 JUNE 2019-19 JANUARY 2020 MUSEUM TOT ZOVER

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SUNFLOWER EFFECT Vincent van Gogh’s sunflowers are the star of this exhibition exploring what it was that fascinated the artist about them.

It also considers the history of his sunflower paintings and provides insights into the preservation of the pieces backed by extensive research.

21 JUNE-1 SEPTEMBER VAN GOGH MUSEUM

Featuring more than 75 historical costumes, Fashion Statements looks at fashion and identity both past and present. Six contemporary designers complement the historical garments by presenting their own contemporary designs questioning how wearers express themselves through the clothes they wear.

UNTIL 8 SEPTEMBER, AMSTERDAM MUSEUM

37

© AUBUTI TAU, ARCHIEF THABONG

10 drawings

© MATHIEU ASSELIN

Welkom Today

Interweaving diverse perspectives, generations and histories, Welkom Today features photographs both old and new by Ad van Denderen, Lebohang Tlali and students as well as family albums, newspaper archives and interviews by Margalith Kleijwegt. It’s all about the dying days of apartheid in Welkom, a gold-mining town in South Africa, and how it is today with archival images butted up against contemporary ones.

South African artist William Kentridge returns to Eye Filmmuseum. The focus of 10 Drawings for Projection is short films created from dozens of charcoal drawings that Kentridge created between 1989 and 2011, which he donated to the museum in 2015. Tackling themes that highlight post-apartheid South Africa, the works are designed for projection.

3 JUNE-1 SEPTEMBER EYE FILMMUSEUM

UNTIL 13 OCTOBER, STEDELIJK MUSEUM

A photographic investigation

When Red Disappears

© ELSPETH DIEDERIX

The Ravestijn Gallery is the latest to host Mathieu Asselin’s impressive Monsanto: A Photographic Investigation.

No stranger to controversy, Monsanto® is regularly in the news concerning the alleged effect it has on the environment. Through photos, advertisements, news items and many other sources, Asselin paints a picture of the influence this Goliath has had on people and the environment. He has also photographed dump sites in the US and victims of Agent Orange. It’s compelling stuff.

YAYOI KUSAMA Fans of Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama will be pleased to know that the Moco Museum is paying tribute to the Polkadot Princess. ‘Night of Stars’ and ‘Pumpkin’ are the two works on show. Here’s your chance to see Kusama’s trademark dots.

UNTIL 30 SEPTEMBER, MOCO MUSEUM

8 JUNE-1 SEPTEMBER, HUIS MARSEILLE

NEW NUANCES The aim of Cobra Museum’s New Nuances exhibition is to shift the movement’s ‘men’s club’ image by focusing on the mostly unsung women artists who produced work alongside them. Eight female artists are featured, including Lotti van der Gaag, Dora Tuynman and Anneliese Hager.

12 JULY-1 DECEMBER, COBRA

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©PETER BELL AMY

29 JUNE-31 AUGUST, THE RAVESTIJN GALLERY

The vibrant underwater world is the focus of Elspeth Diederix’ work. For When Red Disappears she traded the tropics for the somewhat cooler waters of Zeeland in the south of the Netherlands. Her dives illuminated a surprisingly colourful world of shells, sponges, anemones and sea squirts, which are revealed in this wonderful exhibition. It’s all about the abstract beauty of nature for this photographer hailing from Nairobi.

LOUISE BOURGEOIS Louise Bourgeois’ whimsical sculptures are loved the world over, her gigantic spiders for one. Now’s your chance to catch 12 works in the Rijksmuseum Gardens.

This free outdoor exhibition spans half a century of the artist’s oeuvre – from ‘The Blind Leading the Blind’ to ‘Crouching Spider’.

UNTIL 3 NOVEMBER, RIJKSMUSEUM GARDENS

Collections 38 | TEXT: HALLIE ENGEL

Figen 1998, Céline van Balen

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éline van Balen is a leading light in contemporary Dutch photography.

Inspired by August Sander’s work, Van Balen makes use of a large-format camera to ensure fine detail in her classic take on portraiture. ‘Figen’ is a part of a series of portraits made after Van Balen asked Muslim girls at an Islamic school if she could photograph them. Figen’s penetrating eyes highlight the photographer’s aim: to show the individuality of these young women when so many rules apply in daily life.

Using a simple setup with a black background, the viewer’s focus is on the face gazing serenely back at them. We love how the blue in her cream-coloured scarf matches Figen’s beautiful blue eyes.

FRANS HALS MUSEUM

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MAKE-UP, 1918, HASHIGUCHI GOYÔ The woman’s pale pink lips and exposed shoulder catch the eye, and it feels as though we’ve caught her in the middle of a quiet daily ritual. Is she preparing for a lover, husband or perhaps to entertain clients as a geisha? Don’t expect an answer – a lady never reveals her secrets.

WOODCUTTER, 1912, KAZIMIR MALEVICH The mundane becomes magnificent in this oil painting of a peasant chopping logs. Combining Cubism and Neoprimitivism styles, it reduces natural forms to geometric shapes, leaving us with a collection of spheres, rectangles, cylinders and cubes.

RIJKSMUSEUM

STEDELIJK MUSEUM

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17/5 - 15/9

artzuid.nl

Classical

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

| 39

Opera in the Summer

Roomful of Teeth – Partita for 8 Voices © KARIN STROBOS

As part of Holland Festival, the young American vocal ensemble (whose repertoire includes an immense range of genres and styles) sings work by Missy Mazzoli and Ted Hearne. The main part of the programme, though, was written by Caroline Shaw, a member of the ensemble. The Partita for 8 Voices won her the Pulitzer Prize for Music in 2013, making her the youngest-ever recipient of the award.

15 JUNE, MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

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Grachtenfestival

© RONALD KNAPP

n one of the first concerts of this year’s Summer Concerts series at Royal Concertgebouw, philharmonie zuidnederland are joined by the Brabant Choir and a number of soloists including Karin Strobos, Raoul Steffani and Kristina Bitenc, for an exuberant evening of operatic greatest hits. On the programme are arias and choruses by Mozart, Puccini, Donizetti, Verdi and many more, and singing along is encouraged! The Summer Concerts, two months’ worth of classical, jazz and pop concerts as well as film scores, are an annual tradition – sponsored by the BankGiro Loterij from this year on.

9-18 AUGUST, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

JOSHUA BELL The US violinist brings his Stradivarius to Amsterdam for a Bohemian evening of folkloristic, lyrical music, with the Bamberg Syphony Orchestra. On the programme are Dvorák’s Violin Concerto and Smetana’s Má vlast, six symphonic poems portraying the composer's Czech home.

18 JULY,

BRODSKY QUARTET The British string quartet visits

© MARTINA SIMKOVICOVA

© PHIL KNOT T

3 JULY, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

The magnificent Grachtenfestival, held annually on and around Amsterdam’s canals, is one of the city’s cultural highlights. Forming the perfect backdrop, the historic and beautiful Canal Ring hosts the festival of classical music at numerous locations. Concerts are performed on stages by (or even on) the water, as the musicians play on pontoons and the audience listens from the canal-side or from their own boats. The festival culminates in the famous free Prinsengracht Concert, taking place on the pontoon by the Pulitzer Hotel.

ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

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Amsterdam with a programme aimed at emphasising the timelessness of beauty in music, performing works spanning centuries – from baroque to the late 20th century, from Purcell through Mendelssohn to Karen Tanaka.

7 AUGUST, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

Festivals & Events 40 | TEXT: HALLIE ENGEL AND DAVID WILLS

FIBA 3x3 World Cup Basketball

Move over art, FIBA is in town. Basketball fans are in for a real treat with the FIBA 3x3 World Cup. Watch reigning champs from Italy and Serbia defend their titles in exciting challenges. It all comes to a stunning climax in the semi-finals on day six. The stakes are high, as winners earn themselves a spot to take part in the 3x3 in the Tokyo Olympics in 2020.

18-23 JUNE, MUSEUMPLEIN

© LEX HULSCHER

Kwaku

Red Light Jazz Festival

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he Red Light Jazz Festival is an annual event celebrating Amsterdam’s position as a true jazz city.

The festival aims to flaunt a more cultured side of the city’s infamous Red Light District, highlighting its long and strong connection with jazz. Amsterdam’s most notorious neighbourhood is the perfect location to feast on an exemplary line-up of big-name jazz musicians as well as up-

and-coming new talent. The musical genre made its way to Amsterdam in the 1930s and ’40s and hasn’t really left. Back then, Casablanca on the Zeedijk gained a reputation as a ‘Mecca for jazz lovers’. This vibrant three-day festival has grown over the years with performances taking place in more and more venues each outing.

Music, art and food – oh my! This yearly festival began as a football tournament, but it’s morphed into a colourful celebration of Surinamese and Caribbean culture. Take your pick of over 100 food trucks dishing out scrumptious international fare before watching a live performance, browsing the market or attending a dance workshop.

13 JULY-4 AUGUST, NELSON MANDELA PARK

7-9 JUNE, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

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ONCE IN A BLUE MOON Get back to basics at Once in a Blue Moon, which brings top names in folk, country, American and roots rock to Amsterdamse Bos. A dozen acts, including Eels, Courtney Barnett and Michelle David & The Gospel Sessions, will rock your world and you can devour BBQ, Tex-Mex and Kentucky soul food, too.

TREK FESTIVAL A variety of food trucks trek through the entire country and stop at city parks. As Trek hits Amsterdam, Amstelpark transforms into a magical open-air restaurant where you can sample everything from sushi to Surinamese, plus cocktails, performances, ’80s tunes and classic fairground rides.

24 AUGUST AMSTERDAMSE BOS

12-14 JULY, AMSTELPARK

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Bruckner Symphony

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Fri 7, Sat 8 juni Het Concertgebouw www.orkest.nl

Amsterdam is a city of diehard music fans, and you can join them at Appelsap, a one-day festival in Flevopark. There will be plenty of grime, R&B, hip-hop and progressive electronica, along with DJs spinning tunes. When you’re feeling hungry, browse the international food stands and find some tasty nosh before catching another act.

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10 AUGUST, FLEVOPARK

If you like big beats and you cannot lie, don’t miss the Drumcode Festival! This two-day event features four stages dedicated to different styles of techno, and features some of the hottest acts around including Charlotte de Witte (pictured). Tickets are selling fast, so don’t wait!

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For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

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Drumcode

24-25 AUGUST, NDSM WHARF

Loveland

Held in the beautiful surroundings of Sloterpark on a peninsula jutting out into the Sloterplas Lake, this event boasts six stages of international stars and the freshest Dutch acts, including Solomun, Chris Liebing, Marco Carola, Âme, Henrik Schwarz, Jamie Jones and techno godfather Carl Cox.

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10 & 11 AUGUST, SLOTERPARK

Uitmarkt

Milkshake © BAS UTERWIJK

This Milkshake certainly brings all the boys to the yard, and all the girls, and everyone in between as well. A festival with a clear message about respect, freedom, love and tolerance, Milkshake boasts a number of stages, each with its own defining character and acts. Expect everything from top DJs to drag acts and performance art. And loads of glitter, natch.

27-28 JULY, WESTERPARK

CITY SOUNDS City Sounds is a string of open-air concerts held every summer. This year, musical artists Jessie J, James Bay and Thirty Seconds to Mars take to the stage. There’s a food court on site with food trucks and bars serving a range of tasty options to tide you over.

3,4 & 6 AUGUST, NDSM WHARF

This free festival is one of the country’s most popular cultural events and the traditional opening of the cultural season. It features more than 300 performances across 30 stages, all free and ranging from classical music to experimental theatre, from hip-hop shows to ballet.

23-25 AUGUST, MUSEUMPLEIN & LEIDSEPLEIN

‘I can’t wait for LowINSIDER TIP lands festival; there’s always a really great atmosphere and everyone’s really friendly there, so it’s always a fun experience.

Plus, the line-up gets better and better every year, with Jorja Smith, Tame Impala, Hunee, IAMDDB and Billie Eilish all on the bill in 2019.’

Mylene Leeflang (24), PR & marketing executive

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On Stage 42 |

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

New Moves In this annual workshop, dancers develop their creative talents: they choreograph a work, design sets or costumes, take on the role of pianist or lighting technician, or try their hand at any other skill, whether on stage or behind the scenes. The result is a performance filled with infectious energy and an opportunity to discover new talent.

New Moves is also essential for the Dutch National Opera & Ballet, because it is a way for the company to discover new potential, and usher in and foster fresh talent.

1 JULY, DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET

Over het IJ

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his long-running festival is an easy-going delight. Catch the ferry across the River IJ and before you know it, you’ll find yourself on the lively festival grounds offering a summery blend of theatre, DJs and fabulous food. Although many performances are in Dutch, there’s plenty for internationals to enjoy.

5-14 JULY, VARIOUS LOCATIONS AT NDSM WHARF AND ACROSS AMSTERDAM NOORD (NORTH)

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CION Subtitled ‘Requiem of Ravel’s Bolero’, this dance performance by Gregory Maqoma brings to life Toloki, the main protagonist in novels by the South African author Zakes Mda. With eight dancers from his Vuyani Dance Theatre, Maqoma examines the dark history of his native country.

21 & 22 JUNE, ITA

IN ALL WEATHERS

Each summer, Toomler invites a host of top stand-up talent from the US, UK, Australia and Canada for its International Summer Festival: two comedians perform on four consecutive nights – Wednesday to Saturday – before handing the baton to another duo who do the honours the following week.

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VARIOUS DATES BETWEEN 3 JULY AND 10 AUGUST, TOOMLER

Opera

Amsterdam has long been marking summer by putting on lovely opera performances in the open air. The Dutch National Opera’s Opera in the Park is a screening of their current production of Debussy’s Pelléas et Mélisande in the beautiful Frankendael Park. It’s free; we do recommend bringing a picnic, though.

Museum Van Loon annually presents an opera performance in the house’s glorious

Holland Festival

Turan Dokht

Part of Holland Festival, this ‘intercultural rewriting’ of Puccini’s opera Turandot sees Iranian-Dutch composer Aftab Darvishi and Dutch director Miranda Lakerveld take the story back to its roots: an epic by the 12th-century Persian poet Nizami Ganjavi. Darvishi’s new music, influenced by Puccini but blended with Iranian elements, is performed by the Nilper Orchestra, an Iranian chamber orchestra for new music, and mezzo soprano Ekaterina Leventhal.

5 & 6 JUNE, MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

T garden. This year, it’s Gian Carlo Menotti’s The Old Maid and the Thief, with two performances every evening.

18 JUNE, FRANKENDAEL PARK /13-18 AUGUST, MUSEUM VAN LOON

his leading international theatre festival has been providing Amsterdam’s audiences with a survey of widely-acclaimed international productions since 1947.

This year sees the world premiere of aus LICHT, a selection of key sections from Karlheinz Stockhausen’s immense LICHT cycle.

In 15 hours of music performed over three days, the production aims to capture the entire tonal universe of the original cycle. The festival is also working with associate artists for the first time, having selected William Kentridge and Faustin Linyekula. There is new work by both artists, plus related pieces and works by artists referencing them.

UNTIL 23 JUNE, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

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Experience Holland at the

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THE TRIAL Polish director Krystian Lupa presents a five-hour cinematic performance based on Kafka’s famous novel. At a time of strongman politics, ultra-nationalism and newly oppressive states, Lupa demonstrates The Trial’s continued relevance. In Polish with Dutch and English surtitles.

BIANCA DEL RIO Kicking off Pride weekend, drag superstar and self-proclaimed ‘clown in a gown’ Bianca del Rio tells tales of her life, travels and family in a performance that is set to sell out. The evening includes a performance by Lady Bunny and an afterparty with DJ Diva MayDay.

21-23 JUNE, MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

1 & 2 AUGUST, THEATER AMSTERDAM

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Star Wars:

The Empire Strikes Back – Live in Concert

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rab your lightsabre and channel the force – it’s time for The Empire Strikes Back with a live musical score, led by acclaimed conductor Dirk Brossé. Taking place at the beautiful Royal Concertgebouw, this performance has it all – Yoda, Lando Calrissian, strings and horns. The perfect combination of pop and high culture, it’s great for kids, too.

11-14 JULY, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

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World Cinema Amsterdam

Bijlmerbios

This little festival has plenty of heart, and is totally unique – Bijlmerbios takes place outdoors, under the tracks of the Kraaiennest metro station. You’ll need to bring your own seat, so grab a cushion or spare chair if you have one; some nearby restaurants will even let you watch from their terraces. The movies begin at 9 pm, and this is a great way to rub shoulders with locals while experiencing another side of Amsterdam.

30 AUGUST-1 SEPTEMBER, KRAAIENNEST METRO STATION

One of the summer’s best movie events, World Cinema Amsterdam is a week-long celebration of movies from Africa, Asia, Latin America and the Caribbean. This year’s edition has a special focus on Cuban film and takes place at De Balie and the Rialto, as well as four different open-air locations, and outdoor screenings are free. There’s also food, music, Q&A sessions and more.

15-24 AUG, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

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ROMEO AND JULIET Ballet comes to the big screen with Romeo and Juliet, a special performance from the UK’s Royal Opera House LIVE season 2018/19. This screening includes an introduction by opera and ballet expert Bo van der Meulen, and tells the famous Shakespearean story of star-crossed lovers.

2 – 14 JULY 2019

EYESHADOW – TRAINSPOTTING Choose life. Choose a job. Choose Eyeshadow – a special evening combining movies and music. This edition features Trainspotting, a darkly comic look at the lives and exploits of drug addicts in 1990s Scotland based on the book by Irvine Welsh.

15 JUNE, EYE FILMMUSEUM

11 JUNE, DE FILMHALLEN

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For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

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De Zon

Dekmantel

Taking place among the trees of Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest) and at various venues along the River IJ, the 2019 edition marks Dekmantel’s seventh summer presenting cutting-edge electronic music. The festival boasts a line-up of fresh talent and the most creative and influential acts in house and techno, and actively encourages its performers to take risks on stage. This year’s luminaries include Jon Hopkins, Róisín Murphy, and Motor City Drum Ensemble.

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e Zon kicks the festival season off in sizzling summer style, complete with beach and palm trees. Keen clubbers can spend the day dancing to happy house, disco, hip-hop and top summer hits at a tropically themed NDSM Wharf. Break out your sunscreen and hats and enjoy a fun line-up of events including live acts, drum karaoke, a Hawaiian ferry trip plus a supply of fine refreshing drinks and tasty tropical treats.

Amsterdam’s De Marktkantine plays host to techno master Laurent Garnier. His illustrious career spans more than 30 years and has seen him play the world’s biggest clubs and festivals to rapturous applause. His boundless energy and interpretation of a broad range of musical styles, including deep house, Detroit techno, trance and jazz, ensures that the room heaves when he’s behind the decks. Little wonder then that he’s one of the world’s top 35 DJs!

9 JUNE, NDSM WHARF

14 JUNE, DE MARKTKANTINE

31 JULY-4 AUGUST, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

Laurent Garnier

Alkmaar oldest cheese market, just outside Amsterdam Every Friday morning from 10:00 – 13:00 WWW.VISITALKMAAR.COM

29-30 JUNE, RHONEPARK

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NOMADS FESTIVAL Wanderers from far and wide come together at Rhonepark to dance, spread the love and listen to the cutting-edge sounds of disco, future funk, soul, techno and underground house cuts. If dancing barefoot among happy people is your thing, then join the tribe for this twoday extravaganza.

WELCOME TO THE FUTURE Showcasing some of the best underground techno and house music from around the world, Welcome to the Future takes over the green surrounds and forests of Het Twiske. At this intimate and relaxed event, you can live it up at the main stages or tone it down in a hammock.

20 JULY, HET TWISKE

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Pop & Rock

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

46 | TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT AND DAVID WILLS

Ariana Grande

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lightweight pop princess who bloomed into a true pop star, Ariana Grande’s rise to the upper echelons of fame is as much testament to her sensitive and defiant reaction to traumas that have littered the passage of her life in the last few years as it is to her music. Not that she hasn’t got the songs, with latest album Thank U, Next quickly becoming an unruly upstart in the pantheon of great break-up records, musing on life, love and the difficulties of being a woman in the 21st century.

She returns to Amsterdam for two dates at the Ziggo Dome in August.

23 & 24 AUGUST, ZIGGO DOME

PIXX Solo female pop stars aren’t in short supply at the minute, but Pixx’ futuristic take on electropop – which blends motorik guitars, industrial quease, icy delivery and the occasional mega chorus – sets her well apart from the rest of the pack.

20 JUNE, CINETOL

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LOOSE ENDS FESTIVAL A new festival for Amsterdam, Loose Ends brings together some of the most hotly-tipped garage, punk and post-punk bands together at the city’s NDSM Wharf. As well as the ever-engaging and sweary headliners Sleaford Mods, Fontaines D.C., Sunflower Bean, Metz, Iceage and Pip Blom are on the bill.

23 JUNE, NDSM WHARF

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Father John Misty / José Gonzáles

Father John Misty’s fiery wit and malcontent musicality might not seem like the perfect match to José Gonzáles’ optimistic acoustics, but being able to see the two artists together on the same night seems almost too good to be true. What’s best is that they’re teaming up at the picturesque open-air theatre Caprera, which is nestled between the dunes and the forest in the beach resort of Bloemendaal.

Four Tops

Vocal quartet Four Tops are credited with defining the Motown sound in the 1960s along with the Temptations and the Supremes. They had massive hits including ‘Reach Out I’ll Be There’ and ‘I Can’t Help Myself (Sugar Pie Honey Bunch)’ with their soul sound hitting the sweet spot. At 83, Abdul ‘Duke’ Fakir is the only surviving member of the original group, but fear not as you’ll hear their classic hits supported by their funky backing band.

18 AUGUST, PARADISO

Neil Young

Gossip

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6 AUGUST, CAPRERA

Gossip have reformed to mark the ten-year anniversary of their Music for Men album. Known for fusing disco, punk, soul and rock to create an original sound, the band are set to bring the Paradiso down with their dynamic stage show, pounding sound and catchy guitar riffs. Fronted by the inimitable Beth Ditto, the band broke through with the punkish ‘Standing in the Way of Control’. This tour is sure to please fans and feature their big European hit ‘Heavy Cross’.

A true living legend, Neil Young’s career has seen the Canadian singersongwriter constantly redefine his image and sound. From the ’60s up to the present day, Young continues to traverse the musical landscape in search of new treasures. Join him in Amsterdam in July.

16 JULY, PARADISO

10 JULY, ZIGGO DOME

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HATCHIE Dubbed ‘the dream-pop idol of tomorrow’ by Pitchfork, the Australian singer and bassist Hatchie makes music which sounds like the soundtrack to a teen romance. Ever-evolving, she’s spliced the sound of swirling dancefloors to her sparkling-pop melodies on debut album Keepsake.

SNAIL MAIL Maryland-based Lindsey Jordan AKA Snail Mail is currently touring the world after releasing her debut album Lush to rave reviews. She is 19. If that wasn’t proof enough of her prodigious talent, her songs match quickening heartbeat strums of crystalline guitar with Jordan’s mellifluous voice.

7 JUNE, PARADISO

13 JUNE, PARADISO

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LGBTI & Pride 48 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Backdoor’s Pride Edition Backdoor parties focus on extravagance and dance floor fun. It’s all about the hottest music, dazzling stage shows and a raunchy atmosphere that promotes love, acceptance and respect. Join this diverse international crowd for a night of sexy fun with leading DJs setting the pace. It’s sure to be a night to remember.

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2 AUGUST, MELKWEG

Canal Parade

PATHÉ GAY MOVIE NIGHT Every month, Pathé De Munt screens a special LGBTI movie. Arrive half an hour before the film starts to enjoy a drink at the reception. There’s also a chance to win DVD packages. Check the Pathé website for more information: pathe.nl/gaynight FIRST WEDNESDAY OF THE MONTH, PATHÉ DE MUNT

stopping floats and be part of the pumping party atmosphere. It’s a veritable sea of pink, and dancing is borderline obligatory. Be sure to arrive early to grab a perfect canal-side spot to take it all in. Better yet, get down with the action and hop on a boat!

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he highlight of Pride festivities is undoubtedly the Canal Parade, where dozens of brilliantly decorated boats and barges set sail along the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Canal Ring. Hundreds of thousands of spectators flock to the city centre to cheer a dazzling array of show-

3 AUGUST, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

GAY80’S This new party night is all about the big icons of the 1980s: Madonna, Kylie, Whitney, Wham! and a host of others. Danserette presents this fab night featuring camp classics, mega mixes, updated versions and original cuts from one of the wildest decades.

Spin me round like a record, baby!

8 JUNE, PARADISO

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MELLOW MONDAY Recharge after a hectic weekend with a bit of pampering at Mellow Monday. This weekly event is the perfect way to relax and recuperate, featuring free foot and shoulder massages, dry and steam saunas, juices and smoothies, snacks and scrubs.

EVERY MONDAY, SAUNA NZ

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Referencing Bronski Beat’s big hit, Small Town Boy is a play that tells the story of a boy fleeing repression. His move to a freethinking metropolis brings personal, political and sexual freedom but also complexity.

23 JULY-3 AUGUST, ITA

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Time to flirt 3x NYX

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3x NYX is one of the most popular LGBTI nights in Amsterdam, but – of course – people of all backgrounds, sexualities and identities are more than welcome.

Expect a range of music in this three-storey extravaganza, including pop, house, hip-hop, R&B and even a few ’90s guilty pleasures.

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t’s time to unwind at this women-only beach party at Bloemendaal aan Zee. With the sun on your face, a drink in hand and sand between your toes, this event is all about dancing, enjoyment and friendly fun in a relaxed environment.

With thousands of women in attendance, you can flirt to your heart’s content.

EVERY SATURDAY, CLUB NYX

‘I would recommend heading to Amsterdam Pride and trying to see its worldfamous Canal Parade. I’m so proud of my city and seeing people from all across the globe come together to celebrate diversity, and that INSIDER TIP everyone can be who they want to be without fear of discrimination.’

Daan Ubachs (32), founder of sustainable fashion brand Unrobe

6 JULY, BEACHCLUB VROEGER

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PRIDE WALK Pride begins each year with a march from the Homomonument at Westerkerk to the Vondelpark. It celebrates the global LGBTI community in an effort to spread love and to support those living in countries where being gay is still a criminal offence.

PRIDE STREET PARTIES Pride’s closing weekend is all about partying.

Open-air events and street parties take place across the city from the Zeedijk to Westerkerk via the River Amstel, Reguliersdwarsstraat and the Dam. 2-4 AUGUST, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

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27 JULY, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

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Catch some waves Frog-spot in the park

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urfana, set on a patch of beachfront bliss in Bloemendaal aan Zee, has surf summer camps and surf lessons for kids, along with surf and yoga classes for adults. It is located within De Lakens campsite, in the middle of the sand dunes for which the area is famed, and after a long day of surfing you can hike the dunes, chill out at the sauna, get a massage, read in a gently swaying hammock, or have sundowners at Woodstock beach bar. Surfana also hosts a familyfriendly surf festival with 50 types of clinics, special events for kids and bands from all over the world. It takes place in early September, but you’ll need to book early to secure your spot.

6-8 SEPTEMBER, BLOEMENDAAL AAN ZEE

Nature experts host waterfront walks in Vondelpark, inviting kids and their parents to search for insects, reptiles and other curious creatures who make their homes along the little canals and gulleys that weave throughout the 47hectare park. Get ready to spot fish, caddisflies, frogs, backswimmers, dragonfly larvae, and lots of other surprising aquatic plants and animals.

This free excursion is a big hit each year. Check kidsproof.nl for more details and an updated calendar of kids’ events throughout the year.

14-16 JUNE, VONDELPARK

JOIN THE PLAY Just opened earlier this year, Black Cat Theatre hosts imagination-stimulating, interactive performances for toddlers aged one to five years old. The shows help kids unleash their creativity and learn new words through live music, engaging plays and cool toys.

CLAP, SING, DO-SI-DO The SoWhat kids’ concert, which takes the audience on a whirlwind adventure through the Wild West, invites kids to clap, dance and sing along. An entertaining mix of classical music, blues, jazz and even reading aloud will keep the little ones (and their parents) on the edge of their saddles.

WEEKENDS & WED AM BLACK CAT THEATRE

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Camp in the city

Train like a real Ajax player

Get a taste of the outdoors right in the city with a bit of urban camping. Camping Zeeburg in Oost is ideal for families, with a playground and a petting zoo, canoes and bikes for rent, and a cosy onsite restaurant.

You can swim at the pool at nearby Flevopark and then take the tram into the Centre or Oud-Zuid for some museum-hopping fun.

If your kids are into footie, there is no better way to fan that flame than by sending them to this fiveday summer camp where they will hone their skills like real players in Amsterdam Football Club Ajax. This is one of Europe’s best football academies, and the training techniques are based on the methodology used by Amsterdam’s much-beloved home team. They’ll even be dribbling across the actual Ajax training field!

ZUIDER IJDIJK

You can easily spend a full day at Amsterdamse Bos (Amsterdam Forest). Rent a little motorboat and enjoy the photo op of your little explorers decked out in the captain’s hat and outfits provided. Swing by the goat farm to feed the goats, pigs and chickens.

Take to the treetops at the Fun Forest climbing adventure, then cool down at the aquatic obstacle course.

AMSTERDAMSE BOS

Party with the animals © ARTIS, SAMUEL VAN LEEUWEN

Make a splash

When the sun starts to shine, the paddling pools dotted across Amsterdam’s parks and playgrounds are filled – with water and frolicking families. In Vondelpark, there’s a shallow freshwater pool where the wee ones can splash about.

Gibraltarbad paddling pool in the trendy Bos en Lommer neighbourhood is delightful for a tree-shaded dip; to the east, Oosterpark paddling pool has a climbing island, water fountains and other aquatic games for the kiddies.

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8-12 JULY, V.V. KLOETINGE

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Explore the forest

MAY-SEPTEMBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

On Saturday evenings during the warm summer months, Amsterdam’s Artis Royal Zoo keeps its gates open until sunset, giving guests the chance to see the diurnal animals nodding off to sleep and the nocturnal animals just blinking awake. Adding to the fun, there are live concerts, workshops and activities for children, along with barbecued bites you can eat picnic-style on the lawn.

SATURDAYS, JUNE-AUGUST, ARTIS ROYAL ZOO

FOLLOW THE PARADE De Parade travelling theatre festival returns every summer to tour the Netherlands with a rich array of artistic surprises in tow. The festival kicks off in Rotterdam and stops in The Hague and Utrecht before rolling into Amsterdam’s Martin Luther King Park in August.

HUNT FOR ROYAL TREASURE At the Royal Palace, take an audio tour that will lead your family back in time.

Follow Prince Louis, son of King Louis Napoleon, on a quest for golden stickers, or solve the mystery of the stolen olive branch with the help of Jacob, a boy from 1641.

16-31 AUGUST MARTIN LUTHER KING PARK

OPEN DAILY EXCEPT 11-28 JUNE ROYAL PALACE AMSTERDAM

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Inspired by Rembrandt Museum Het Rembrandthuis 7 Jun - 1 Sep 2019

This exhibition will feature the most remarkable examples from the museum’s collection.

Discover the surprising selection of work by such artists as Rembrandt, Hercules Segers, Edgar Degas, Pablo Picasso and Glenn Brown. iamsterdam.com/rembrandt2019

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Rembrandt & the Dutch Golden Age In 2019 we celebrate Rembrandt’s life, with a year of breathtaking exhibitions in museums all over the Netherlands.

iamsterdam.com/rembrandt2019

City Guide

54 Noord 59 West 60 Vondelpark 61 Zuid 62 Oost

Explore Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods

A’DAM Tower

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From the north side of Amsterdam Central Station, take the free ferry to Buiksloterweg. From there, it’s a short walk to the iconic A’DAM Tower. Inside, you’ll find a 360-degree lookout, chic hotel, revolving restaurant, night club, music school and even a burger bar with old-school arcade games. You could spend a day in the tower alone…

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IAMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

Hop on board for a scenic cruise with Plastic Whale and help keep our city clean. More than 200,000 plastic bottles have been removed and recycled into furniture via this social enterprise.

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The Other Side

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ranes stand tall, marking Amsterdam Noord’s (North) horizon with an ode to its industrial history as well as the many new developments popping up just across the River IJ. Gone are the days of true grit and grunge, as Noord has evolved into a quirky neighbourhood that plays host to music festivals, street art, cafés and vintage shops galore. Grab a free ferry from Central Station and step off a few minutes later to explore this ever-evolving neighbourhood.

For the fastest route, exit the Buiksloterweg ferry and step onto a wide, riverside promenade that leads visitors to a variety of amusements and eye-catching architecture. Inside the sleek, modern Eye Filmmuseum, exhibitions celebrate the history of filmmaking. But in summer, the star

of this space-age building is the large, waterside terrace – the perfect spot for sipping a chilled rosé at golden hour.

Meanwhile, take in a bird’s-eye view from the top of the A’DAM Tower, where thrill-seekers dare to swing from the edge of the roof – the highest in Europe at a spine-shivering 100 metres up. On the opposite end of the spectrum, a nightclub hides underground: Shelter spins electro beats until the wee hours.

From ships to hip

Alternatively, take the ferry slightly west over towards NDSM Wharf.

Once home to the Netherlands’ largest dockyard, this urban plaza now hosts a vibrant cultural centre with assorted eateries and an agenda full of unorthodox activities.

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Amsterdam’s neighbourhood to the north offers diverse entertainment and bohemian flair, just steps from the water’s edge.

INSIDER TIP

‘We’re both photographers and like to explore with our cameras. Don’t miss the VR Arcade in Noord.

We had an amazing time during the immersive game but it’s not for the faint-hearted… you might just look over your shoulder and spot a zombie right behind you!’

Bert Blommestein, consumer experience specialist, and Iris Jansen, digital consultant

Noord

56 | THE BOHEMIAN REBEL Northern expansion

With many industrial spaces available, this neighbourhood is quickly filling up with creative movers and shakers. Grab a slice at Klaproos pop-up pizzeria, where wood-fired pizzas are served in a spacious warehouse or on their terrace out front. Nearby, another repurposed warehouse now houses Cultcha Kombucha, a new, local brand brewing up the fizzy, fermented tea in-house. Further down the road, vintage hotspots Van Dijk & Ko and Neef Louis have endless antique goodies and vintage furniture on offer.

Hangar

Just as the name suggests, this was once an industrial hangar along the water’s edge; now, it’s a tasty seafood restaurant with a beautifully messy yet ambient interior. Tropical palm trees line the sandy beach terrace at this rustic location, where summer visitors dine on seafood under the stars.

AAMBEELDSTRAAT 36 HANGAR.AMSTERDAM

So lush and so green

While still less developed than the opposite side of the River IJ, Noord boosts more open space to slow down and enjoy this warmer season.

Journey along the recently refurbished Van der Pekstraat, where

For more information on Amsterdam Noord, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

© LILY HEATON

The sandy waterfront ‘beach’ at Pllek is a perfect spot to kick off your shoes and chill out on a beanbag with a beer in hand while enjoying the (ever-elusive) sunshine and a magnificent view of the River IJ. Journey around the corner to Noorderlicht, a greenhouse turned café housed along the water’s edge, where you can have lunch in the sun or dance the night away under the stars. This bohemian spot is home to an array of events including groovy beats during the Tropikali Festival (2 June) or live theatre performances during Over het IJ Festival (5-14 July). Once a month, treasure hunters can rummage through recycled wares when Europe’s largest flea market takes over. IJ-Hallen features over 500 stands full of vintage threads, vinyl records and knick-knacks galore.

Public Space

© STUDIO VALKENIER

De Ceuvel

Celebrated for its laidback, bohemian charm, this sustainable, waterside café and cultural centre is formed from recycled houseboats rooted in a former shipyard.

Host to a funky agenda, this ‘forbidden garden’ also serves up conscious dishes with locally sourced ingredients, some even grown on their rooftop. Make an impact during Trashlesstival (1 June) by collecting rubbish from the surrounding canals before you dance the night away.

KORTE PAPAVERWEG 2-6, DECEUVEL.NL

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Coffee and community connections play a central role at one of Noord’s newest arrivals on the ground floor of one of the new, residential towers just a short walk from the ferries. Mid-century modern decor brings a Scandinavian feel to this workspace, where visitors can meet up for lunch or sit down to get some work done at this laptop-friendly café.

BERCYLAAN 301 PUBLICSPACE.AMSTERDAM

COnScIoUs sHoPpInG rOuTe

© MONIQUE WIJBRANDS / SALT YSTOCK

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Ready to explore all of the sustainable endeavours that Noord has to offer? Hop off the ferry and onto your bike, heading towards (1) Noordje, a creative, cultural centre for children located on the edge of the Vliegenbos. Continue cycling north and stop by (2) 50/50 Food for an organic lunch served on their sunny terrace, before rummaging through recycled treasures at (3) De Lokatie. Take a shortcut along the tree-lined Noorderpark to arrive at (4) 50/50 Green, an urban farm supplying fresh ingredients to local venues (yes, including your lunch). Zigzag down the street for a pit stop at (5) De Ceuvel to enjoy a cold, refreshing beer along the water’s edge.

Stop for one more thrifting spree at an additional branch of (6) De Lokatie or head down the street to browse sustainable gifts and second-hand clothes for children at (7) RecycleKid before making your way back to the ferry along the River IJ.

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CONSCIOUS SHOPPING

Oedipus Brewery

Arrive thirsty to this colourful, quirky taproom launched by local brewers in 2015.

Wash down a juicy burger, spicy chicken wings or kimchi fries with a hoppy IPA, Belgian Triple or one of the other potent brews rotating on tap.

GEDEMPT HAMERKANAAL 85 OEDIPUS.COM

Noord

58 | THE BOHEMIAN REBEL

Trade in the busy city centre for idyllic natural scenery, and make the most of sunny days by venturing further out to the countryside. In Noorderpark, there’s plenty of space to rest and relax. Cool off in the public swimming pool during hot summer days, or pick up something to read at Kadett: an independent art space and bookshop located nearby. Noord’s expansive open spaces offer a leisurely approach to summer cycling, far unlike the bustling city centre. Explore the charming yet ever-so-flat Dutch countryside by bike to get your fill of windmills, polders and of course, countless fluffy sheep along the way.

Cycle slightly beyond Noorderpark

to find the Krijtmolen d’Admiraal, the last remaining active chalk windmill (circa 1792) and complete your farmland experience with a visit to Kinderboerderij De Buiktuin, a small petting zoo nearby the mill.

Curious for more? Continue your way further through the farmlands, heading northeast towards the quaint village of Broek in Waterland (around 12 kilometres from the IJ ferry point). Alternatively, take off on two wheels heading 10 kilometres northwest from the ferry towards Het Twiske, an expansive nature area and host to festivals, camping and outdoor fun. Nearby, the local Friekens Brouwerij nestled in the garden village of Oostzaan hosts the Friekens Tuinfest (1 June) with live music, beer brewing and fun for the whole family.

© LILY HEATON

vendors at the Pekmarkt alternate local treats, handmade goods and organic produce every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday.

INSIDER TIP

‘Our favourite is the Mexican food at Coba, created with love, attention to detail and a beautifully art-directed interior with modern yet authentic flavours. On a sunny day, cycle into Noorderpark for a glass of wine at Pompet; they have a terrace and a relaxed, boho vibe.’

Oceane Combeau, graphic designer, and Charlotte Newbold, freelance creative

Restaurant Stork

© MARIE-CHARLOT TE PEZÉ

Housed in a former factory, this popular seafood restaurant matches fine dining with sustainability.

Their ample interior – 1,100 square metres to be exact – feels modern and open yet inviting. A bounty of fresh, seasonal favourites like fruits de mer or the catch of the day can also be devoured outside on the sprawling terrace. Finish up with a cocktail and open view of the shimmering water as boats pass by along the River IJ. GEDEMPT HAMERKANAAL 201 RESTAURANTSTORK.NL

Dappermarkt

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West

59

HIPSTER HEAVEN

There’s no shortage of terrace space around the Hugo de Grootplein, but a sunny seat at this chic restaurant/bar is preferred. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, pair a few afternoon bites with one of their famous gin & tonics – there are 50+ varieties to choose from.

HUGO DE GROOTPLEIN 7-15, RAZMATAZ.NL

© MARIE-CHARLOT TE PEZÉ

INSIDER TIP

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Bursting with flavour, there’s plenty to see, do and eat in every pocket of the ever-expanding West.

Rebirth

s Amsterdam continues to make room for its growing population, residents have moved in every direction away from the Canal Ring. Around 15 years ago, the city renovated Westergasfabriek, an old gas factory, into a cultural hotspot. There’s plenty of outdoor summer fun to enjoy, including festivals, movies and music with plenty of bites and booze on offer. Subsequently, West has matured from a working-class neighbourhood into a trendy area full of shops and eateries as diverse as its inhabitants. Busy shopping streets like De Clercqstraat and Kinkerstraat run parallel, while Bilderdijkstraat pumps energy into the vibrant Oud-West (Old West) with its many bars, restaurants and boutiques. A diverse selection of food, fashion and films are available at De Hallen, an old tram depot turned cultural centre. The western expansion continues further to Bos en Lommer and De Baarsjes. Areas that were once farmland now host hipster cafés and concept shops along the Jan Evertsenstraat and Mercatorplein. Don’t miss the Amsterdam School-style architecture, featuring thick, sculptural brick and notes of an Art Deco aesthetic. Explore the socio-political context of this 20th-century architecture at Museum Het Schip.

‘We’re music producers, and play in a band called Mabassa.

Our studio is just behind Westerpark.

On a nice day, we like to have coffee in the park. There’s always so much going on in the Westergasterrein.

Look out for events like Summer Breeze and Roda da Holanda.’

Breno Viricimo and Nathaniel Klumperbeek, musicians and producers

Boerderij Westerpark

Tucked away in the back of the park, this little petting zoo offers outdoor fun for city-based animal lovers of all ages.

Spend time with Shetland ponies, pygmy goats and plenty more. Then, buzz over to say hello to nature’s superheroes at the Bijenpaleis (bee palace). This newly refurbished ecological initiative is the first of its kind in the Netherlands.

OVERBRAKERPAD 10 BOERDERIJWESTERPARK.NL | WELLBEEING.ORG

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Razmataz

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A walk in the park Picnic spots q With up to 10 million visitors a year, it’s no surprise that BBQs have now been outlawed. But don’t worry: there are plenty of yummy options available just outside the park’s perimeter. Grab pizza and prosecco (Pizzabakkers, Overtoom 501), Mexican burritos (Tomatillo, Overtoom 261), BBQ ribs (Braai, Schinkelhavenkade 1) or a salad to go (SLA, Amstelveenseweg 124) – just don’t forget your picnic blanket!

With summer in full swing, Vondelpark blossoms into a lush, green oasis of fun.

There’s plenty to explore in and around Amsterdam’s largest city park.

Vondelkerk e

Groot Melkhuis w

Nestled in a residential street along the park’s northwest corner, this once-active church now host concerts and events. Notice a familiar style? The church was designed (circa 1880)

by P.J.H. Cuypers, who also created Central Station and the Rijksmuseum.

Originally a small farm, this has been a familyfriendly spot since the 1870s when it was incorporated into the park.

Pick up assorted drinks, sweets, sandwiches and snacks at the self-service café, and enjoy a waterfront view along the terrace while the kids run around a large playground.

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Vondelbunker y

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Hidden below an overpass, this easily overlooked cultural centre is run by volunteers with an agenda featuring live music, movie screenings, beer tastings and more.

© MONIQUE WIJBRANDS / SALT YSTOCK

Brouwerij ’t IJ x Blauwe Theehuis r This summer, one of Amsterdam’s most beloved breweries will expand from their windmill headquarters in Oost to take over the legendary café tucked away under a leafy, green canopy. This Vondelpark favourite will transition into the ultimate summer beer garden where you can toast friends with a glass of Zatte, the brewery’s infamously strong triple, on the terrace.

y

Open-Air Theatre t Head to this central, lakeside stage to enjoy a variety of international performances. Kicking off in June, everything from classical to salsa, cabaret, dance and theatre takes place all summer long, Fridays through Sundays.

Zuid

At a loose end on a Wednesday? Catch a free lunchtime concert at the Royal Concertgebouw, where classical performances have taken place since 1889.

CLASSY MEETS CULTURAL

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Stroll along avenues and unwind in tranquil parks – Zuid provides antiquated charm with cosmopolitan flair.

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Gold Star

ud-Zuid (Old South) is chic and historic in equal measure. For a grand entrance, make your way through the Rijksmuseum tunnel. Exit directly onto Museumplein (Museum Square) where the view may feel slightly amiss without the iconic I amsterdam letters that have recently moved across town. Explore a trio of impressive museums – the Stedelijk, Van Gogh and Moco – each with their own fill of prized artworks. With elegant streets and stately mansions, it’s clear that Oud-Zuid was built for those with money. The glitzy P.C. Hooftstraat caters to affluent clientele who find delight in couture brands, while more high-end boutiques can be found along the Van Baerlestraat, Willemsparkweg and Beethovenstraat.

Amsterdam’s Latin Quarter, De Pijp, is a quirky residential neighbourhood full of hotspots and concept shops. Pick up picnic bites and souvenirs or taste a fresh, handmade stroopwafel (Dutch caramel waffle cookie) at the bustling Albert Cuyp Market.

For more information on Amsterdam Zuid, check out the Neighbourhood Guide on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Matsuki van Coevorden, hairdresser

© WILLEM DE KAM

‘As a teenager growing up in Zuid, I loved shopping at the Albert Cuyp Market. That area has changed a lot over the years, now with a lot of food spots! Three years ago, my brother opened De Japanner, an Izakaya-style bar and restaurant with an Amsterdam twist. ’

Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, this long-standing, grand café on the Roelof Hartplein features a charming 1920s interior. Large windows open up to a roomy, rounded terrace – the perfect spot to enjoy a Dutch crispy kroket and cocktail after exploring Museumplein nearby.

ROELOF HARTPLEIN 1-3 CAFEWILDSCHUT.NL

Studio Jux © MARIE-CHARLOT TE PEZÉ

INSIDER TIP

© LILY HEATON

Café Wildschut

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Focused on creating a positive impact in fashion, this local clothing brand takes sustainability seriously using eco-friendly materials and ethical production in Nepal. Now, this conscious lifestyle brand has expanded to a concept shop in De Pijp, selling brands with a similar philosophy alongside their own label.

CEINTUURBAAN 252 STUDIOJUX.COM

DISCOVER His life and REMBRANDT all his paintings

6 juli t/m 1 september 2019

RAI Amsterdam DISCOVERREMBRANDT.COM

The raw seaside beauty A raw mix of adventure and history. Walk on the wide beach, piers and through the harbor.

Stroll along estates and explore the history of the Atlantic Wall. Enjoy freshly caught fish at one of the beach cafes or restaurants. See the construction of the world largest sea lock.

Discover more on ijmuidenaanzee.nl Busline 382 from Amsterdam Sloterdijk to IJmuiden aan Zee stops near the beach.

Oost

Cool off with IJs van Oost: this neighbourhood favourite dishes out creamy, dreamy scoops on the Javastraat.

63 | CULTURAL MELTING POT

Full of expansive green spaces, entertainment and eateries, Oost is growing quickly while still retaining its unique charm.

Melting Pot

V

© MARIE-CHARLOT TE PEZÉ

enture over the River Amstel to Oost (East), where a diverse population is evident in both its residents and its architectural styles. Find grand 19th-century designs in Oud-Oost (Old East) and modern high-rise flats along the Eastern Docklands. Home to a melange of cultures, Turkish bakeries, Surinamese grocers and Middle Eastern cafés stand alongside plenty of trendy additions. The heart of Oost beats at the Dappermarkt, Amsterdam’s oldest market, where shoppers and vendors have haggled over fruits, flowers and fabrics for the last century. Hungry explorers will find everything from beers to bao buns and (coffee) beans at spots like Louie Louie, Happyhappyjoyjoy and Coffee Bru. On sunny days, crowds gather on the terrace at Brouwerij ’t IJ, the local brewery famously housed in a windmill.

For more Further east, Flevopark contains its very own distillery, ’t Nieuwe information on Diep, serving the beloved Dutch genever in a cosy tasting room.

Amsterdam Oost, check out the Neighbourhood Near the leafy Oosterpark, the monumental Tropenmuseum Guide on our website: houses a collection of anthropological treasures collected during iamsterdam.com/ the heyday of Dutch colonial exploration. neighbourhoods INSIDER TIP

Het Faire Oosten

Conscious shoppers can pick up artisanal crafts, worldly gifts and eco-friendly decor at this concept shop on the far-east side of Amsterdam.

Browse an extensive collection of fair fashion and brands with sustainable craftsmanship and social initiatives like V. at The City, who creates skyline silhouette pillows made from recycled fibres.

Inspired by its namesake, this bar-restaurant boasts a bold New York City-style interior along with a sunny corner terrace, perfect for the summer season. Open from early till late, their menu dishes out Indonesian fusion fare like French toast with bananas and shredded coconut, and street food like fried nasi and spicy satay.

JAVASTRAAT 88 BARBASQUIAT.NL

© LILY HEATON

Bar Basquiat

‘We love Amsterdam Oost! A few of our favourite spots are browsing bespoke art and illustrations at de werkwinkel +meer and Studio Pansa, who host a market with handmade ceramics (8-9 June) on the KNSM-Laan.’

Alina Tang, artist @giantpansy, and Bodie Hartley, illustrator @bodieh

WALDENLAAN 208 HETFAIREOOSTEN.NL

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TRAVEL WITH THE

AMSTERDAM & REGION TRAVEL TICKET

by bus, tram, metro & train

€19.50

€28.00

€36.50

Day Trips Discover the Amsterdam area 24H Zandvoort

During 24H Zandvoort on 15 June, this beach town’s hotels, shops, beach pavilions, museum and international race circuit open their doors for 24 hours. They organise special events, parties, workshops or tastings to give you an inside glimpse into their activities. Whether you live in the Amsterdam area or are just visiting, this is a fantastic opportunity to experience all that Zandvoort has to offer. And it’s just 30 minutes by train from Amsterdam Central Station.

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

15 JUNE

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66 Beaches 69 Haarlem 70 Castles & Gardens 71 New Land 72 Old Holland 73 Alkmaar 74 Cycle Holland 77 Further Afield

Beaches

66 | TEXT: VICKY HAMPTON

Beside the Seaside Amsterdam’s nearby coastline offers rolling dunes, sandy beaches and the clean (if rather chilly) North Sea in which to swim. Take your pick from Zandvoort, Bloemendaal, IJmuiden, Wijk and more.

J

ust half an hour from Amsterdam, the beach stretches all the way from Zeeland in the south up as far as the Dutch islands.

Take the train and head west until you reach the shores of the North Sea, and the beach resorts that come alive in summer.

Here, clean white sands and dunes hug the coastline for nine uninterrupted kilometres of sunbathing, water sports and lively beach clubs.

In this issue of I amsterdam Magazine, we bring you the hottest beach clubs in Zandvoort for those of you who enjoy eating and drinking while you soak up some rays. For the sporty among you, we have a cycling route that takes you through the iconic Dutch dunes.

And for those who like to party, there are a host of summer events and festivals – all of which take place on or near the beach. Don’t forget to pack your sunscreen!

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

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IO & REG EL TRAV T TICKE

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Dance Valley

One of the world’s longest-running dance festivals celebrates 25 years in 2019. The festival features every type of dance music you could care to make a box with your hands at, and is populated by stages that look like the results of a hallucinogenic dream Walt Disney might have had, had he been a massive raver. Though the line-up of this edition of Dance Valley still hadn’t been released at the time of going to print, superstar DJ David Guetta has been announced as a headliner. Don’t miss this dance fixture on 10 August in the leafy Velsen Valley, Spaarnwoude.

DANCEVALLEY.COM

INSIDER TIP

‘I’m looking forward to the Caprera Open Air-Theatre in Bloemendaal on 6 August. Two amazing artists – José González and Father John Misty – are performing together under the stars by the beach.’

James Scott Cook (36), musician who lives in Haarlem

Beaches

You could spend days exploring Amsterdam beach’s 38 hectares of dunes, forests and hidden swimming holes.

68 | LET’S GET SANDY

Four of the best beach clubs in Zandvoort

Whether you’re just stopping in for a quick coffee or making a night of it, these are the best beach clubs in which to eat, drink and be merry while soaking up some sun: • Hippie Fish – with its white interior, comfortable furniture and botanical vibe, Hippie Fish (pictured) will have you feeling right at home. Slow down and stay a while to enjoy the good food and relaxed atmosphere.

HIPPIEFISH.NL

• Ajuma – at this stylish beach hideaway furnished in an Asian theme, you can fully immerse yourself in the Asian atmosphere with great food from across the continent.

AJUMA.NL

© BET TINA NESEKER; CIT YMOM.NL

• Far Out – a slice of Ibiza in the Netherlands, Far Out is the perfect spot to chill out with a cool drink or a great meal under the trees.

BEACHCLUBFAROUT.NL

• Tent 6 – one for the foodies, Tent 6 serves fresh, healthy meals made with local, mostly organic ingredients. On Sundays, don’t miss the DJ spinning vinyl and the kitchen serving fresh oysters.

TENT6.NL

Pride at the Beach

Holy beach babes: Pride Amsterdam is taking the heat to the beach for the second time this year on 29-31 July. Expect a parade of many colours, music that will get your hips swaying and lots of happy, elaborately (or scantily) dressed people in this annual celebration of diversity with a sun-soaked twist.

British Festival

VVVZANDVOORT.NL/PRIDE-AT-THE-BEACH

Harbour Festival

This nautical festival (29-30 June) in IJmuiden features stages with singers, bands, choirs, DJs, poets, artists and theatre. There’s a host of activities, including boat tours of the harbour, visits to ships, and demonstrations by divers, the fire department and rescue teams.

IJMUIDENAANZEE.NL

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Ride a red Routemaster bus, greet Paddington Bear and gobble down British food and drinks to the sound of bagpipes at the British Festival. Get your fill of sports, movies and music from across the North Sea during the one weekend a year that Zandvoort goes full Anglophile: 5-7 July.

POPUPZANDVOORT.NL/ BRITISH-FESTIVAL

Haarlem

Find out more about day trips to Haarlem on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

AMSTERDAM’S NEAREST NEIGHBOUR

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Canals, Culture & Cuisine Amsterdam’s closest neighbour, Haarlem is known not only for its dining and shopping options, but also for its culture and architecture. A perfect summer day trip.

Haarlemmerhout park

Haarlemmerhout is the Netherlands’ oldest green monument. Located on the south side of Haarlem, ‘The Wood’, as it is popularly called, covers an area of 24 hectares and boasts a deer park, petting zoo and pancake house.

The park is host to several music festivals during summer, or you can take a guided tour of Villa Welgelegen – a retreat for Napoleon and Wilhelmina of Prussia.

If you don’t like sandy toes but still want to experience the laidback beachy vibe of the Dutch coast, pay a visit to DeDAKKAS in Haarlem. Climb the stairs of a gritty parking lot to find a city oasis on the rooftop with a magnificent view of old Haarlem and the Dutch dunes.

The food is local and seasonal, from breakfast to borreltijd, and as the name implies (kas is Dutch for greenhouse), they grow their own produce in the spring and summer months.

Cruise the River Spaarne The River Spaarne, which winds its way through Haarlem, offers a unique perspective on the city’s architecture and windmills. Join a boat tour with Haarlem Canal Tours or Smidtje Canal Cruises.

SMIDTJECANALCRUISES.NL | HAARLEMCANALTOURS.NL

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

Rooftop dining at DeDAKKAS

DEDAKKAS.NL

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Historical hofjes

Leafy courtyards enclosed by rows of quaint houses, Haarlem’s 21 hofjes can be hard to find behind their heavy doors and concealed entrances – but they’re well worth seeking out. These almshouses were often established by wealthy citizens as sheltered accommodation for elderly women in need. The oldest hofjes date back to the 12th century, and were built for Beguines, but most date from the 15th to 18th centuries. Most hofjes can be visited daily except Sundays, free of charge, between 10 am and 5 pm.

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Find out more about day trips to Castles & Gardens on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

Ride along the River Did you know that Amsterdam was built on a series of dams and dykes on the River Amstel? Follow this historic and majestic river as it winds its way south past lush green countryside, majestic manors and quaint villages.

Ouderkerk aan de Amstel

Featuring some of Amsterdam’s most breathtaking rural views, historic Ouderkerk aan de Amstel is easily accessible from Amsterdam. Both sides of the River Amstel feature some of the region’s top dining spots, such as Ron Gastrobar Indonesia, steakhouse Loetje aan de Amstel, Brasserie Paardenburg and restaurant Lute. Every summer, hidden beer garden KEK! pops up as the winter home of the Amstelbocht ice-skating club is transformed in its off-season, serving craft beer with an idyllic Dutch view and tasty local treats.

Hop on your bike

To follow our scenic River Amstel route, simply rent a bike from one of Amsterdam’s many bike rental shops and cycle south down the river. Break for lunch in Ouderkerk aan de Amstel (see right), a picturesque 12th-century village full of bustling cafés with sunny terraces, and exceptional restaurants. After lunch, stroll around the village and admire its churches, windmills and ancient monuments. Then cycle south until you reach the beautiful Ronde Hoep polder, where Golden Age artists painted nature scenes.

Today, it is an important bird sanctuary and a popular cycle route. If you’re not tired yet, continue along the river to Fort aan de Drecht, part of the Defence Line of Amsterdam.

From Friday through Sunday, hungry bikers can enjoy pancakes in the fort. Return to Amsterdam via the cycle paths, with the city on your horizon at the river’s every twist and turn.

CYCLESEEING.COM/MAPS-ROUTES/AMSTEL-RIVER

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City estates

The banks of the River Amstel were favoured by wealthy Golden Age merchants looking to escape the hustle and bustle of Amsterdam. A few of these magnificent buildings have been preserved – including the privately owned Oostermeer and the fully restored 350-year-old Wester Amstel, which hosts regular exhibitions and concerts and whose gardens are open to the public.

New Land

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AMS REGION & EL TRAV T TICKE

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Batavia Stad Fashion Outlet

Explore Batavialand

© PAUL GERRITSEN

Take a journey spanning 7,000 years of Dutch history at Batavialand.

Climb aboard a replica of the famous Batavia ship, and find out how these powerful 17th-century trade ships were constructed.

In among all this culture and nature, you’ll also find premium shopping at Batavia Stad Amsterdam Fashion Outlet. This charming, reconstructed 17th-century village is a shopping paradise for fashion lovers. More than 250 international fashion and lifestyle brands like Hugo Boss, Michael Kors and Tommy Hilfiger are waiting to inspire you with the latest trends, must-have items and more.

Batavialand Museum

Discover the history of Flevoland, from the pre-historic Swifterbant people to the largest reclamation project ever: the Zuiderzee project. The collection includes 6,000-year-old archaeological finds from the days when Flevoland was still an extensive marshland, as well as archives with thousands of photographs, documents and much more. There’s plenty for children to do, including exhibitions that let them step into the shoes of a dyke builder, archaeologist or lockkeeper.

Fun experiments and games teach them about one of the Netherlands’ key challenges: water management. Entry is free with the I amsterdam City Card.

BATAVIALAND.NL/EN/MUSEUM

Land Art – Exposure

During the creation of the Flevoland polder, the engineers and planners decided to mark the momentous occasion with art. The result is a collection of seven Land Art works by world-famous artists such as Robert Morris, Richard Serra and Daniel Libeskind. All seven can be visited in a single day by car, but if you’re visiting Batavialand, check out Anthony Gormley’s ‘Exposure’ statue at the border of land and sea.

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It’s not just your wardrobe needs that will be sated after a day at Batavia Stad; you can also indulge yourself with jewellery, chocolate and even innovative cookware. Tired after shopping?

Relax at one of the cosy cafés or restaurants.

BATAVIASTAD.COM

The Shopping Shuttle runs directly from Amsterdam to Batavia Stad, departing daily at 10 am from the pick-up point at the Amsterdam River Cruise Port bus parking lot on De Ruijterkade, and returning at 4 pm. Tickets cost €5 but are free with the I amsterdam City Card. Book in advance via: shoppingshuttle.bataviastad.nl.

Old Holland 72 | TRUE DUTCH HERITAGE

Find out more about day trips to Old Holland: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

Cheese, Windmills and More Experience traditional Dutch landscapes, complete with dykes, windmills, cheese farms, clog workshops and quaint villages. Summer is the perfect opportunity to explore idyllic Old Holland on two wheels.

Edam’s cheese market

Edam is one of the Netherlands’ best-kept secrets.

In the 14th and 15th centuries, the fortress town was one of the country’s most important commercial centres, with thriving ship-building, timber and cheese-trading industries. It continues to be known around the world for its cheese. Until 1922, farmers from the surrounding area sailed to Edam’s cheese market, where their produce was weighed and sold. You can see these old practices for yourself when the cheese market is revived every Wednesday morning between 10.30 am and 12.30 pm between 3 July and 21 August.

VVV-EDAM.NL

Explore Ilperveld and Het Twiske

Leave the buzz of the city behind for a few hours during a bike ride to one of the peaceful nature areas that surround Amsterdam. Take the ferry across the River IJ behind Amsterdam Central Station and follow signs for Landsmeer. At the crossroads, head towards either Het Twiske or Ilperveld. Ilperveld is a natural refuge, renowned for its birdlife and the hundreds of peat islands that vibrate when you step on them. You can rent a canoe, electric ‘whisper boat’ or rowing boat to explore this mysterious island kingdom (each weekend until October). Het Twiske, a large recreational lake surrounded by green, offers hiking, mountain biking, horse-riding, fishing, inline skating, boating and swimming. When you’re hungry, head to one of Het Twiske’s eateries, featuring produce from the vegetable garden, the local beer Saens Zoentje, and meat from the park’s Scottish Highland cattle.

ILPERVELD.NL | TWISKE-WATERLAND.NL

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

Monnickendam ‘fish days’

The beautiful harbour town of Monnickendam is home to dozens of historic listed buildings.

In the 17th century, shipyards and smokehouses were established and they never left: even now, some of the buildings and street names are reminders of its industrious past, when trades and crafts flourished. During the summer, you can experience bustling scenes of fish-smoking and fishing boats again during the ‘fish days’ in the picturesque inner harbour every Friday between 19 July and 23 August from 11 am-5 pm.

MONNICKENDAMMERVISDAGEN.NL

Alkmaar

Want to discover Alkmaar?

Go to visitalkmaar.com

ADVERTORIAL

73

Alkmaar: It Doesn’t Get More Dutch

© RICK AKKERMAN

Why not combine your visit to Amsterdam with a day trip to the worldfamous cheese city of Alkmaar, just 35 minutes away? Hidden hofjes, picturesque canals, sunny terraces and great events: that’s Alkmaar. And the huge cheese market, of course, where you won’t believe your eyes...

Famous cheese market

Thousands of visitors from all over the world visit Alkmaar for its cheese market, which takes place on the Waagplein every Friday from 10 am-1 pm until the end of September (and on Tuesday evenings from 7-9 pm in July and August). Plus, don’t forget to visit the National Cheese Museum.

© STEDELIJK MUSEUM ALKMAAR

© SJOERD VELTMAN

VISITALKMAAR.COM/CHEESE-MARKET

Historic city centre

Deep in Old Holland, Alkmaar lies in an area of outstanding beauty.

Nowhere else in the Netherlands will you find so many Dutch icons so close together. Many of the beautiful historic facades, canals and merchant houses are monuments from a time when Alkmaar was a rich trading town. Don’t miss the 17th-century Weighing House (1603), City Hall (1520) and Great Church with its famous organs (1518).

VISITALKMAAR.COM

Alkmaar events

The best painters of the 17th century came from the Netherlands – like Caesar van Everdingen, Alkmaar’s greatest painter. Admire his work at the Golden Age room in Stedelijk Museum Alkmaar.

Alkmaar is buzzing all year round. Other unmissable events include Victorie Sail (25-29 July): a unique collection of 200 historic ships that create an incredible spectacle on the water. The European Cycling Championships come to Alkmaar from 7-11 August. During this exciting multi-day programme, everyone from new-comers to elite riders compete for titles on the road race and in time trials. And don’t forget Kaeskoppenstad on 1 and 2 June. This historic event takes Alkmaar city centre back in time to the 16th century.

STEDELIJKMUSEUMALKMAAR.NL

VISITALKMAAR.COM/EVENTS

Golden Age

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

Cycle Holland

74 | ADVERTORIAL

Go Cycleseeing!

The best – and easiest – way to see Holland is by bicycle. Your cycling day trip starts right from your doorstep.

W

hile visiting Amsterdam, it may look like the rest of the country is a faraway place that takes a lot of planning to visit. Not so! Holland starts only a few kilometres from Amsterdam’s city centre! This includes the famous windmills, flower fields, castles and old Dutch towns that take you back in history. The ideal way to explore these is by bicycle. Holland has one of the best networks of cycling routes in the world. They are safe, fast and easy to navigate with lots of sign posts. There’s no need to cycle along dangerous roads or get lost in traffic. An added advantage: Holland is the flattest area in the world! No long climbs await you: in Holland, cycling is for every age and level of fitness.

Cycleseeing Amsterdam is a series of cycle routes from the city centre to attractions just outside the city. You can visit villages that are older than Amsterdam, admire typical Dutch scenery, and even pick your own Dutch flowers. Cycleseeing tours cater to everyone’s taste and level: you can cycle as much or as little as you please.

Free

m terdA g Armlsand n i e e s e ate cyclW

1

Check out our Cycleseeing routes around Amsterdam

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Let’s get started

All you need is...

A map: There are seven Cycleseeing route maps that fold neatly into a pocket-sized booklet to take with you. The maps are available at almost every bike rental shop in town, free of charge.

A bike: Amsterdam has many bike rental shops all over the city. Chances are you have already spotted one. If not, go to cycleseeing.com/#where-to-get-abike. Bikes usually cost around €7.50 per hour to rent. Or around €15 for a whole day. When renting a bike, make sure the rental company displays the I amsterdam approved sign.

A smartphone: Use it to find out the weather, and of course as a camera. You can use all the Cycleseeing maps on your phone while cycling.

Go to cycleseeing.com/#the-routes.

A nose for adventure: Your route can be as easy or as complicated as you like – take our advice for a half-day ride, or add extra trips as you go along to extend your stay.

Pro-tips

Follow the red signs: It’s impossible to get lost if you follow the distinctive red signs, which link virtually every town and city in the country.

Pack for snack attacks: Keep a bit of extra pep in your pedal and bring energy-filled foods like bananas, cashews and dried apricots to nibble on while you ride.

Bring a jacket: The Netherlands’ weather is delightfully unpredictable, so you might get caught in the odd shower or two.

Wear sensible shoes: Leave the high heels for the urbanites, and wear flat-soled shoes instead – handy when venturing into green areas.

Amsterdam beach

Some of the Netherlands’ most hidden treasures lie just a few kilometres outside of Amsterdam. Jump on your bike and get set to explore windswept beaches, quaint historic villages, unique dune ecology, and even some 13th-century ruins – on a route which is primarily flat, with a few hilly bits here and there. You won’t regret it!

Further Afield YOUR SUMMER AGENDA

Out & About

Efteling, World of Wonders

Since the opening of the Fairytale Forest in 1952 in Kaatsheuvel, Efteling has grown to become one of the largest theme parks in Europe. And now that it’s working towards its next big expansion in 2020, this summer is an ideal time to visit – with fun for all the family. Since 2010, the park has

From outdoor music festivals to wonder-filled theme parks, summer is the perfect season to venture further afield in the Netherlands. Take advantage of the fact that there are fewer tourists outside the capital, and get to know the rest of the country!

been open 365 days a year. Various events take place throughout the seasons, each offering a unique experience. During the summer months, guests can enjoy all the rides, attractions, shows and entertainment into the early hours of the morning.

© PART Y FLOCK

© VISIT FLEVOL AND

EFTELING.COM

Lowlands festival

For three days in August, a cultural village of 60,000 inhabitants appears in the middle of the Dutch countryside. The Lowlands festival hosts no less than 12 stages in three large areas, about 250 different acts and performances, dozens of restaurants from all corners of the Earth, food and drink stalls, a large market with everything from clothes stores to a barber’s shop, a local radio station, a daily newspaper (Dutch only), and seven luxury campsites. Though Lowlands covers a wide spectrum of different cultural activities, the main focus still is on alternative music: from rock to pop via hip-hop; from metal to electro via world music; and not neglecting drum ‘n bass, house and techno. Playing at Lowlands from 16-18 August are Tame Impala, Twenty One Pilots, A$AP Rocky, Anderson.Paak & The Free Nationals, The National, New Order, Royal Blood and many more.

LOWLANDS.NL

Parkpop in The Hague

One of the largest free pop festivals in Europe, Parkpop is a must for music lovers when visiting The Hague in the summer. Open to all, its welcoming atmosphere is a perfect demonstration of Dutch friendliness.

This year, it takes place on 28-30 June.

PARKPOP.NL

Pardoes de Tovernar (Pardoes the Magician) is the Efteling's cheeky mascot

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Day of the Castle

Every year on Whit Monday (which in 2019 falls on 10 June), dozens of castles, country houses and country estates all across the Netherlands are open to the public on the Dag van het Kasteel (Day of the Castle). Organised by the Dutch Castle Foundation, the day aims to raise awareness of the preservation of the country’s cultural heritage. You can find a list of the castles taking part, a programme of events and various routes you can follow on the website.

DAGVANHETKASTEEL.NL

© JON ISRAEL

Carnival time

For five days from 23-27 July, Rotterdam hosts one of the largest, most diverse summer carnivals in the world. The eclectic music scene, Rotterdam’s creative arts community, and 178 different cultures are the secret ingredients of this street festival’s vibrant atmosphere. Rotterdam Unlimited boasts battles, live music, dancing and much more.

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

Whatever your musical taste, you’ll find it: live electronica, soca, hip-hop, soul, R&B, drum ‘n bass and jungle. In addition to the music and performances, foodies will love the huge market selling street food from all over the world. Plus, don’t miss the parade that fills the streets with colour, costumes and carnival atmosphere.

ROTTERDAMUNLIMITED.COM

Need to Know

78

I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shop for everything you need to know about the city.

Last-Minute Ticket Shop

Make the most of discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance. The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy. Check the Last­Minute Ticket Shop after 10 am, and buy tickets at lastminuteticketshop.nl.

I AMSTERDAM STORE With a hand­picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must­see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Central Station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer.

Open: Mon­Wed 8 am­7 pm; Thu­Sat 8 am­8 pm; Sun 10 am­6 pm iamsterdam.com/en/i-amsterdam-store

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN Opposite the main entrance of Central Station.

Open daily, check opening times on iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket

Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket is available for one, two or three calendar days, and is valid on any of the routes listed in the public transport guide to the Amsterdam area. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store, as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport companies.

CLASS 2

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza.

Open daily 7 am­10 pm

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

2018 til 31-12with Valid un required and out Check in ier on every trip each carr

Y A D 1 AM D R E T S M

A

N & REGIO L TRAVE TICKET

Get the I amsterdam City Card for free entry into many of the city’s museums and attractions, as well as discounts and special offers!

USEFUL AMSTERDAM BLOGS Amsterdam is chock-full of bloggers, many of whom write in English. Here is just a small selection of some of the blogs we follow (plus our own!):

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I AMSTERDAM: blog.iamsterdam.com A sideways look at life in the city for visitors and locals.

STUFF DUTCH PEOPLE LIKE: stuffdutchpeoplelike.com A study of all things Orange.

AMSTERDAM FOODIE: amsterdamfoodie.nl Restaurant reviews, culinary guides and foodie travels.

AWESOME AMSTERDAM: awesomeamsterdam.com Personal tips and info on events, dining and culture.

In Case of Emergency

If you are a victim of crime, report it to the police (politie.nl). In emergency situations or to report a crime in progress, call 112. For non­emergency situations requiring police assistance or to make an appointment to report a crime in person, call 0900-8844 (if using a mobile phone with an international SIM card, dial +31 343 578 844). For medical emergencies, including telephone consultations and consultations on location, contact the hotel reception or call the tourist doctor on +31 (0)20 427 5011 (expatmc.net).

SPOTTED BY LOCALS: spottedbylocals.com/amsterdam Online city guide and app.

Getting Around

Amsterdam is well equipped with a public transport network of trams, buses and the metro, operated by GVB (gvb.nl). Public transport tickets – known as OV cards – are obligatory on all forms of public transport. You can buy a card for one or more days from ticket offices at the main stations; single one­hour tickets are for sale on trams and buses with debit or credit card (cash is no longer accepted). To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/en for up­to­the­ minute information on all public transport routes.

Google Maps is also generally fairly reliable.

Alternatively, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental stores throughout the city, and pedal like a local!

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

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3-14

On the Way Out

82 | TEXT AND PHOTOS: DAVE PELHAM

‘Every time I come to Amsterdam to visit my boyfriend, we go to a bar called Cafe de Dam [now renamed as Louis Bar and in a new location]. It’s owned by a really nice guy called Louis, and there are all sorts of fun knickknacks inside like beer coaster art.’

Meghan Grieve (22), art department assistant from Glasgow, UK

‘It’s a lovely city so we like to hang around and visit record stores, especially Second Life Music on Prinsengracht.’

Andreas Norström (36), nurse, and Jonathan Björklund (32), water engineer, from Sweden ‘My insider’s tip is to visit Amster­ dam West as that’s where the real Amsterdammers live. Cafe Broer is great for meals and drinks outside on the terrace.’

Christian Bergwerff (32), works for the Dutch Ministry of Foreign Affairs, from Amsterdam, the Netherlands

‘Oud-West is my favourite area to spend time in. In the summer, the people are friendly and the weather is good!’

Paul Yeh (27), student from London, UK

‘We enjoy visiting the parks around Amsterdam, especially Vondelpark. It’s the perfect place to relax.’

Sascha Zoch (29), and Chantal Hofmann (23), kindergarten teachers from Konstanz, Germany

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken designer Martijn Blokland deputy editor Vicky Hampton proofreader Julia Gorodecky contributors Karin Engelbrecht, Lily Heaton, Dave Pelham, EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, David Wills, Alison McGarry, Alex Hibbert, Merritt Gurley, Hallie Engel, Isadora Goudsblom), SaltyStock (Monique Wijbrands) advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or 020-7026180 subscriptions magazine@iamsterdam.com didn’t receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam & partners print Corelio Printing ISSN 2589-6717

V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

Vincent van Gogh, Sunflowers (detail), 1889. Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation)

Plan your visit.

Book your tickets online

Van Gogh and the Sunflowers 21.06 - 01.09.2019

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What’s on

Outdoor eating Teetotal trends Summer shopping

Pride Amsterdam Red Light Jazz Holland Festival

Around town Visit Vondelpark Noord insider’s guide Amsterdam beaches

Magazine | The Summer Issue 2019

F o r yo u to d i s c ov e r

Eat & shop

Summer Issue

The Great Outdoors

B O O K YO U R S H O P P I N G S H U T T L E T I C K E T O N L I N E

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