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THE LAST FRONTIER: BHUTAN
"Ye shey pi da chap sar mi thoeng; phog sar thoeng."
The arrow of the accomplished (master) will not be seen when it is released; only when it hits the target. (you don't see the process; only the result can be seen).
The Druk Air aircraft hovers over the craggy Himalayan slopes as the pilot noses in to land on the narrow airstrip. Paro is one of the trickiest touchdowns in the world, and one of the most scenic. The plane banks and you see the wide sweep of snow caps that tower over the tiny kingdom. Bhutan is nestled in their fold, protected from the outside world.
As the wheels make contact with the tarmac, you can almost feel a collective breath being released. And someone claps in the background, applauding the pilot’s deft manoeuvre.
Bhutan is a monarchy on the cusp of change. It established itself as a constitutional monarchy as recently as 2008, making way for an elected government. Steered by a council of ministers with a Prime Minister at its head, the royal family continues to play an active role in the social and administrative functioning of the country. Steeped in tradition and the Vajrayana Buddhist faith, it gracefully navigates its interaction with the world beyond its hidden kingdom.
Despite its pursuit of happiness, the Bhutanese have a long-standing martial tradition and are expert archers. In fact, archery is the national sport and its not that unusual to find people in traditional garb practicing their skill with a bow and arrow.
The more one draws an arrow back, the further it flies. The Bhutanese embody this spirit.
They rise above the challenges of living in an ecologically and geopolitically sensitive region of the Himalayas. They maintain their solidarity and sanctuary with customary calm and strategic foresight, honed by centuries of living with the elements.

Which is why this tiny country has such an awe-inspiring sustainability footprint. In fact, environmental protection of its virgin habitats is one of the four pillars of its National Happiness ethos. Over 60% of the country has been retained under forest cover and is protected by the government. With a small population of around 760,000 people, nature has room to thrive. Bhutan has played a leading role in wildlife conservation efforts. As a result, critically endangered species such as the tiger, the snow leopard and the black-necked crane flourish within its borders, in beautiful national parks like the Royal Manas National Park↗
There’s a greater strategy to this effort. In conserving the habitat of these species, Bhutan maintains a critical watershed that feeds its larger neighbours. It provides water to 20% of the world’s population. The environment plays a key role in the economy, as ecotourism, wildlife and adventure tourism are core elements that drive foreign currency into the country.
The Black-Necked Crane is a unique motif which symbolizes culture and nature coming together. Every November, clouds of Black-Necked Cranes leave the

In Bhutanese folklore, the Black-Necked Cranes are held sacred, and are often depicted dancing together in pairs. Their arrival is heralded as a symbol of good luck and prosperity, and the Bhutanese literally make a song and dance about it, as they celebrate the Black-Necked Crane Festival on November 11 with tremendous enthusiasm. The courtyard of Gangtey’s serene Goempa springs to life as locals gather together to watch the monks perform an intricate dance and music performance to welcome the birds.
The Jigme Dorji National Park↗ adjoins the Phobjikha Valley which comes under the aegis of the Royal Society for the Protection of Nature (RSPN). This reserve focuses on protecting the Black-Necked Cranes and their habitat. Within its environs, Bumdeling is a key site where the cranes roost for the winter. IUCN has listed the Black-Necked Crane as a vulnerable species and the Bhutanese administration has taken several steps to save it, as well as other avians that are threatened due to habitat loss. In a pathbreaking move, the Bhutanese government decided to shelve the idea of farming cash-crops in the wetlands just to save the Black-Necked Cranes habitat. Several monks voluntarily retreat to warmer zones every winter to avoid disturbing the cranes.
Although several visitors make it to Gangtey for the festival, they are strictly monitored so that they do not derange on the birds. Visitors are guided to designated areas from where they can view the birds at a distance, without intruding on them. The Crane Information Centre in the valley also offers visitors an opportunity to learn more about these ethereal birds.

Some say that the Phobjikha Valley is one of the most beautiful parts of Bhutan (if not on earth!) – and we are inclined to agree. For those who enjoy being outdoors, the Gangtey Nature Trail allows you to hike through the valley and soak up its beauty. The hike is not too strenuous and takes about 2-2.5 hours, taking you through forest, small hamlets and lush fields until you come out to a vast open area. The sense of space, light and energy is surreal. It offers you an opportunity to interact with the landscape and see an authentic side of untouched, rural Bhutan that you may otherwise miss.

As you drive back towards Paro, pause for a night or two at Punakha. The Punakha Dzong is an important centre of Buddhist learning. It is arguably one of the most beautiful monasteries in the world, with its magnificent traditional architecture and a fabulous location, overlooking the river.
While in Punakha, take a short drive outside the main town to visit Chimi Lakhang, the Temple of the Divine Madman. Perched at the top of a hill, Chimi Lakhang is intrinsic to Bhutanese folklore. Drukpa Kunley was a great performer, and spread his particular brand of wisdom through song, dance and drama. According to local legend, he subdued a demon with “a bolt of wisdom” which he shared with others through his storytelling and music, sometimes with a sexual connotation. His bizarre behaviour raised many eyebrows amid the old guard orthodoxy, but he has gone down in local culture as one of the most loved and revered characters in Bhutanese history.

Despite the thrust on eco-tourism as a key driver of the economy, the Bhutanese are very wary of over-tourism. Strict measures have been put in place to limit the number of visitors to the country. During the Global Pandemic, Bhutan’s borders were closed off to all outsiders, and it was one of the last destinations to open up. Druk Air, the national carrier, is the only commercial airline that is allowed to fly into the country. Visas are a must for most nationalities. And there is a cap on the number of tourists who can enter the country.
Yet we can’t get enough of it.
This mystical Himalayan kingdom continues to be one of the most sought-after destinations on the planet. For true travellers, Bhutan is one of the last natural and cultural frontiers. The mesmerising beauty of its landscape and the depth of its spiritual belief come together to create an aura that is simply magic. Its emphasis on sustainable living and protecting its natural resources only heightens its appeal. The kingdom of the powerful thunder dragon, the gateway to heaven on earth.