
4 minute read
THE SACRED SHRINES OF DUNGARPUR
A Prayer In Stone
Tucked away in the south-eastern corner of Rajasthan, just across the border with Gujarat, lies a magnificent old temple, just 24 kilometres outside the town of Dungarpur. As you enter its massive gates, an enormous elephant hand-carved out of stone, greets you. Hewn out of stone and marble, 225 pillars rise up from the ground inspiring awe in the beholder.

This is the Deo Somnath Temple, an architectural marvel — and one of Rajasthan’s last hidden gems.
On the shores of Veraval in Gujarat, overlooking the Arabian Sea, lies the first Somnath Temple. A sacred site for millions of pilgrims, the Somnath temple is revered by Hindus and dates back to the 1st Millenium. Looted and plundered several times, the devotees of the temple were afraid that it would be completely destroyed. So, they decided to build a replica of the temple further inland away from the marauders of the coastal areas – and that’s how the Deo Somnath Temple near Dungarpur was conceived.
Ironically, the current avatar of the Somnath Temple in Gujarat was constructed as recently as 1951, in post-Independence India. As a result, its “replica” the Deo Somnath Temple in Rajasthan, is now the “older sibling”.
Dungarpur is world-famous for its stone and marble carvers. These artisans travel across the globe, as they are commissioned to build beautiful temples and monuments in different corners of the planet. Deo Somnath Temple embodies this legacy of artisanship in its majestic façade and intricate interiors, similar in some ways to the temples of Khajuraho in Madhya Pradesh.
A massive Nandi bull, carved out of stone faces the imposing entrance. A vast portico is carved with idols of Hindu gods and goddesses, and the pinnacle soars high above towards the sky. A three-tiered façade is built in the Malva style, according to the Archaeological Society of India, and dates back to the 12th century. In fact, while the temples of Ranakpur, just a few hours away are a world-famous heritage site, few people are aware that the Deo Somnath Temple in Dungarpur has a ceiling that is almost exactly the same as the one in the Ranakpur temple.
What are all those hand-prints embedded into the walls?
Legend says that these were the imprints of women who committed Sati, to save their honour from invaders. The sanctum-sanctorum is sunk into the earth, and is located directly beneath the Shikhara, with its sizable Ratha projections. As you enter the sanctum-sanctorum, a white Shiva-Linga dominates the space. Six feet high, it is believed to be entirely natural and is the reason why the temple was constructed in this location.

Dungarpur’s historic centre is full of ancient architecture.
The Juna Mahal with its pillared galleries, intricate stone carvings and delicate lattice jaali-work immediately transports you back in time.
Various floors were built by each generation of the dynasty. From ceilings painted with scenes from the epics, to an entire collection of Chinese porcelain, and a closeted section dedicated to the Kama Sutra, the walls narrate their own story of the eclectic tastes of each period.
The palaces look out upon a peaceful lake. The Bijayrajrajeshwar Temple is a jewel. It has a magical aura that radiates across the landscape, as it seems to float upon the surface of the water. Beautifully decorated with domed chattris, the architecture is delicate and graceful, imbuing a deep sense of serenity in the visitor. Completed in 1923, the temple is dedicated to Shiva and Parvati.
Tucked away behind the Juna Mahal, beyond the public eye, are some of our favourite shrines. Small, intimate, and beautifully decorated, these small private Devi and Hanuman temples are truly special. The moment you enter this sanctuary, you feel a sense of calm and peace take over. The sole domain of the royal family and their guests, cut off from the hustle and bustle of the outside world.
Set within the royal precinct, these temples have a divine energy, a place where the soul comes home to pray. As you emerge from this sacred space, you feel rested and calm, as if you’ve emerged from a sanctuary. With a light step and your mind at rest, walk out into the streets of Dungarpur to soak up the city’s old-world charm.

-Gaib Sagar Lake and Juna Mahal images by Shivanjali Kumari Dungarpur