FRANCE
Port de Plaisance Below: Lunch at Matelote
Visit Boulogne-sur-Mer Think it’s just a ferry stop? Stick around – and net yourself a timeless French seaside weekend says Anthony Peregrine. Boulogne may be associated with ferries and cross-Channel familiarity, but don’t be fooled: it is the oldest, and most distinguished, Channel port. Caesar was based here for his BC jaunts to Britain. Some 1,800 years later, Napoleon parked 185,000 soldiers on the coast for a couple of years and then marched them away again, having realised that invading England wasn’t on. The harbour areas took a pounding in World War II, and were put back together with business, rather than beauty, in mind. But you don’t have to be pretty to be interesting. This is 58
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France’s premier fishing port – as pleasingly practical as a cod fillet, it bustles to the rhythms of the sea. It also keeps some of France’s best fish restaurants topped up. Meanwhile, up above is a splendidly preserved Old Town – quite a surprise, like finding a glorious medieval village above Grimsby. WHERE TO STAY NO EXPENSE SPARED Hôtel Cléry Rue du Château, Hesdinl’Abbé (hotelcleryhesdin-labbe.com). Set in swathes of parkland, this 18thcentury mansion is the sort of place Jane Austen heroines feel
entitled to. Inside, there’s a swish of period style about the decor, and Mr Darcy would approve of the victuals. Rooms from $160. La Matelote Blvd Ste Beuve (lamatelote.com). A blessed relief from designer minimalism. Bright colours surround Louis XVI furniture and a flotilla of fine ornaments. Plus there’s a pool and fitness setup. Rooms from $120. MIDDLE OF THE ROAD Hôtel Métropole 51 Rue Adolphe Thiers (hotel-metropoleboulogne.com). Simple, classy and
ASK THE LOCAL Thierry Humez is the owner of the Enclos-del’Evêché chambres d’hôtes. For a different perspective on Boulogne (and great views), climb the 12th-century belfry by the Town Hall. It was the keep of the original castle and looks like an antique lighthouse. Nearby, the 27 Vole Hole (52 Rue de Lille) is a terrific little café, with great music. Try la gainée Boulonnaise, Boulogne’s version of bouillabaisse. ‘Gainée’ refers to the share of fish traditionally left to the fishermen after a catch. It’s a word, and a dish, only found here. One of my favourite eating spots is 28 Esprit d’Hélène (69 Grande Rue): don’t miss the amazing ice creams. courteous – a nice town house, with a lovely garden you never would
have expected right here in the centre. Rooms from $109, room only.