AIR
My cuisine has its own identity. It’s like a fashion designer: they adapt their collection to a country’s habits but you still recognise their style to build a new business hotel in Fortde-France. When he asked me to be in charge of the catering, he mentioned his wish to create a gastronomic restaurant to promote the Caribbean products… I accepted because we had the same aim, developing Martinique gastronomy, which deserves to be known and recognised.” An avenue for recognition is exclusivity, and the enclave packs plenty of that; Ravin sets the scene by explaining, “The restaurant faces the famous Fort-de-France Bay and is an intimate setting for only 24 covers. It’s designed in contemporary style, decorated with sophisticated details brought together in perfect harmony. The aim was to create a contemporary Caribbean style – I turned the tables to explore a culturally charged universe of intrigue and emotion, through thematic displays of tableware and decorative arts. Peggy Desmeules-Deniot, an artisan potter located in Martinique, accompanied me during this project and together we have developed customised plates, table sets and timbales using specific local materials.” Ambience has its place, but it’s epicurean intrigue that will tempt loyal Ravinites and curious jetsetters here to part with their euros (Martinique is an overseas region of France). Local produce equates to gastro gold, as root vegetables like cassava, taro and turmeric – “We call it ‘mandja’ in Creole” – are readily available, as is passion fruit, which Ravin loves to cook with “as it has a very special taste and texture”.
Noteworthy signature dishes that crystallise his new direction are organic chicken egg, truffle, cassava and that notable passion fruit, as well as free-range farmed pork from Ancinelle cooked Mamy Yvanesse-style (Ravin’s grandmother), and a variation of chocolate maracuja for afters. “The menu has obvious differences because of the environment,” Ravin explains. “It’s not the same climate, and because I adapt myself to the place I work, I tap into my regional knowhow. I strive for an environmental approach and it’s essential for me to work with local artisans who keep their own culture. Necessarily, the product will differ even if a dish bears the same name as one in Monaco. For example, the livestock I cook in Martinique has a different taste because they eat differently and breathe a different air… However, despite a different culture or environment, you can guess my culinary signature because my cuisine has its own identity. It’s like a fashion designer: they adapt their collection to a country’s habits but you still recognise their style.” Ravin’s name may be above the door but in the La Table kitchen is another maestro: chef Lindley Lanappe is an important component in upholding Marcel’s high standards, and the pair worked together for 10 years in Monaco. “Lindley also hails from Martinique,” says Ravin. “I chose him because I trust him; we have more or less the same itinerary, he knows exotic products and has the islander mentality. He’s a real asset for the restaurant.” 84