FIELD NOTES FROM 30+ YEARS OF OFFSHORE FISHING
POWERED BY Light Tackle Edition
CAPT. MIKE HOGAN
Understanding how and why they are feeding
The right tool for the job
In the “olden days” when I was fishing more days than not (insert deep-long sigh), I would have my entire tackle selection in a partially filled five-gallon bucket and 6 rods: maybe (3) top water (3) jigs, depending on the day. A few light trolling rods stowed in the console. I ran charters that way and did very well. I fished with the same 5 or 6 lures in the same 2 or 3 colors all season. That style of preparation was far more common then as it is today.
Today, it’s MUCH different It's not uncommon to see guys lugging 25lbs of lures on a trip and enough rods to command marina respect with Lake Eerie walleye anglers Just look around at any major tackle store at all the suff. So much. Too Much.
I personally got caught up in “gear creep” too. I had my wake-up moment a few years ago when we had engine troubles before a tuna trip Loading and immediately unloading and immediately re-loading our 3 pickup’s worth of gear truly spot-lighted the absurdity of gear creep Too many rods, accessories, tackle bags We were ready for casting, jigging, trolling, live baiting, cod, AND stripers. Perhaps scallop dredging and lobstering too!
Realistically, there was a 99% chance we were just going to end up jigging tuna then maybe a couple of cod. As planned... We brought EVERYTHING just in case and spent stupid amounts of time managing gear, time that could be spent fishing or scouting We easily lost hours of fishing What’s that worth? Furthermore, all that gear was in our way all day What was impact of that? But what was the most damaging was with too many “options” and tired brains, we were prone to “fishing ADHD”. We felt compelled to use the gear we were so invested in. Rather, as experienced anglers we should have been focused on cracking the code: where was the hot bite?? Simply put - we had the gear-belly-bloat equivalent of having a hard time tying our own shoes
We became bad fishermen even though we all knew better We were bad fisherman because we tried to “do everything” which rendered us far less effective. Example: Anatomy of a tuna trip with Capt. Mike
Imagine the simplicity and efficiency of a golfer preparing for a day on the course. They don’t haul every club they own; instead, they select a streamlined set, each club chosen for its specific purpose This golfer knows their bag well – each club’s strength, the distance it can cover, and when to use it. This is the essence of efficiency, focus, and skill.
Now, translate this imagery to fishing with Capt Mike’s Tuna Crate Just as a golfer confidently picks their bag, knowing it contains exactly what they need for the course ahead, the tuna crate is your specialized fishing gear kit. It’s not about the quantity of the tools but the quality and appropriateness for the task at hand Within this crate lies a carefully curated selection of lures and tools, each serving a distinct purpose akin to a golfer’s driver, iron, or putter.
The golfer on the green, analyzing their next shot, doesn’t second-guess their club choice They know their bag, their clubs, and the game. Similarly, with the tuna crate in hand, you stand on your boat, the ocean your course, equipped with a focused selection of gear. Each lure, like a well-chosen golf club, is ready for its specific role – be it casting far into the open waters or dropping precisely where the fish thrive.
In this crate, efficiency meets expertise. Every tool and lure is an extension of your angling knowledge, much like every club in a golfer’s bag is an extension of their game strategy It’s about having the right gear at the right time, ensuring your fishing trip is as successful as a golfer’s game on their favorite course.
Golf Bag Approach:
My rule today is that my lures must fit in one milk crate and my rods should be carried by one person in one trip to the boat.
Criteria for Inclusion:
Efficiency: Gear that is easy to pack, use, and restock The crate system is designed for fast scrambling and minimal clutter
Versatility: Lures and tools that perform multiple functions, adaptable to various fishing conditions.
Durability: Professional-grade gear that withstands the rigors of saltwater fishing. Ease of Replacement: The ability to quickly replace favorite tools and lures
Intuitiveness: Lures that are effective with minimal input, ideal for guests or less experienced anglers
Compact Design: Everything fits within a milk crate-sized mesh bag, ensuring portability and ease of transportation.
Reediness Pack List:
Lures:
Plugs: Large offshore grade poppers and sliders for open water and scattered fish Jigs: A selection of Hogy Epoxy Jig Lures and Sand Eel Jigs perfect for imitating sand eels.
Soft Baits: A combination of Hogy Harness jigs for slow and low fishing and Pro Tail paddles, suitable for tactical casting and mimicking various prey.
Rigging Box: Contains all necessary terminal tackle including swivels, split rings, crimps, extra hooks, and Jig- Biki rigs for versatility
Tools and Accessories:
Pliers, de-hooker, crimpers, scissors, and split ring pliers. Essential for quick adjustments and rigging on the water.
Knives of various sizes for different purposes.
Heavy-duty fishing gloves
Wind-on tuna leaders for both casting and jigging
Mesh Crate Bag Functionality:
Designed to keep gear organized and easily accessible.
Mesh construction allows for rinsing and drying of the entire bag, ensuring gear maintenance is straightforward and effective.
Clear pouches for easy identification and access to specific items
Having a rod that can handle throwing big plugs and softbaits for tuna is a must here in the Northeast Often I'll find myself casting plugs up to 6oz, so having a rod that is capable of this is very important If I could only bring one casting outfit on a trip, this would be it
Over the years it was difficult to find a rod that checked all of the boxes in terms of a quality casting rod. We wanted a rod that is durable, high performing and easy to use So we decided to build our own!
A few key features that I look for in a casting rod are centered around making the long, strenuous fight easier on an angler An extended foregrip gives an angler more leverage during the fight, especially when "resting" Accompanied with a shorter rod butt which aids in maneuverability when changing positions, especially on a center console style boat
The "do it all" aspect is very appealing to us in terms of fishing gear Having a piece of equipment that is multifunctional makes it so much easier to target various species with different techniques That is exactly why we built this Hybrid Spinning Rod.
I couldn't tell you how many times I've had a failed tuna trip and wanted to salvage the day by catching some striped bass or bluefish once we got back inshore. But horsing in 40" bass on a heavy duty tuna casting rod just seems wrong
Hogy Tuna Casting Spinning Rod Features:
Heavy Backbone
Plenty of Tip Softness
Extended Cork Grip
Graphite Reel Seat
Premium Ceramic Rods
Recommended Reels:
Shimano Twinpower 10000-18000
Shimano Saragossa 10000-20000
Shimano Stella 10000-20000
A few things I like about this outfit:
Extended foregrip: I like a longer foregrip because it gives great leverage when “taking a break” with a big bend in the rod
Short Rod Butt: I really dislike tuna spinning rods with too long of a butt section I find long butts hard to maneuver during the short game and put my fishing grip in an awkward position to fight fish off my hip as opposed to a center “belted position This allows me to keep a 45-degree articulation with my elbows (saving arm strength” and allowing me to dip my knees and engage my core muscle group while fighting the fish
Super durable: I put a ton of heat on my tuna. I like to “l land it fast – or break it off”
Faster landing = healthier release & better meat
Gethere:
That is exactly why we built this Hybrid Spinning Rod Like most of our lures, the Hogy System: Hogy Hybrid Spinning Rod nails the overlap between BIG GAME inshore fishing and MEDIUM GAME offshore Strong and forgiving, this rod excels equally with big inshore striped bass and busting school bluefin tuna offshore Designed to accommodate 6,000 to 10,000 class big game spinning reels, this rod is easy and fun to use, weighing only 9 5oz
Hogy Hybrid Spinning Rod Features:
Fast Action Blank For Increase Sensitivity
Long Casting 7' Length
Premium-Grade Cork
Graphite Reel Seat
Premium Ceramic Rod
Recommended Reels:
Shimano Twinpower 6
Shimano Saragossa 60
Diawa Saltist 4500 - 5
Benefits of a lighter outfit:
I like using a lighter outfit during the final months of tuna season here on Cape Cod The fish are generally on the smaller side and don't always need to be caught on heavy gear.
The lighter outfit comes in handy while "Running and Gunning" where you are taking lots of casts throughout the day to try and entice finicky fish It's far less taxing on the body to be casting a light outfit all day, and allows you to stay fresh for when an opportunity arises
Gethere:
Seeing that you are in an area with bait and feeding tuna, you are already 75 percent of the way to success. The ideal time to blind cast is when you are in a defined area with lots of life. Here’s a few scenarios where it makes sense.
Charter Grade Popper: Best for when fish are scattered and something loud is needed to call them in Fished on a “Pop & Stutter” style retrieve
Slider: Good for fishing the swing, windy conditions and covering ground throughout peak periods of tide Hold the rod at 45 degrees to let the slider's slow wobble do the work Vary retrieve speed, accelerate on missed strikes.
Harness Jig: The best option when Sand Eels or Half Beaks are the primary forage Fast, twitching retrieve, or rip and drop for explosive strikes
WALK & GUN
The slow approach is the ideal way to target tuna and is usually associated with good fishing where there are numerous schools and plenty for everyone
WALK & GUN
Tuna Epoxy Jig: Best used for long range, fast retrieves near the surface
Keep rod tip up for surface skip, or rod low for side to side wobble
lider: Good for fishing the wing, windy conditions and overing ground throughout eak periods of tide Hold the od at 45 degrees to let the lider's slow wobble do the work. Vary retrieve speed, accelerate on missed strikes
Harness Jig: The best option when Sand Eels or Half Beaks are the primary forage. Fast, twitching retrieve, or rip and drop for explosive strikes.
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Scattered feeding fish in a defined area: If they are active, they will find your lure sooner or later and your time will have been better spent with lures in the water than out of the water while you run around looking for obvious signs
Scattered finicky fish: Boat traffic is the top reason fish get spooky. If this is the case, it is time to go stealth mode.
Acres of feeding fish: Why risk spooking the fish? Just cast and wait your turn.
WALK & GUN APPROACH 1 2 Approach slowly when a nearby school pops up WATCH VIDEO WATCH VIDEO
When: This is a great approach when there are a number of fish breaking in a wide area
Why: When the boat is in gear and the fish pop up near you, you will already be in motion I’m convinced that large accelration changes and boat RPM’s spook fish. No need for hard running. Idling up to a school at 10 knots or less is ideal There is no need to hurry in this situation as there are plenty of scattered feeds and they are popping up and down. If you go slow and happy, you might not even get to the school before seeing fish
There is a time and place for running and gunning but great care needs to be taken not to spook fish or disrupt other fisherman Running and gunning is appropriate in situations where there are widely scattered fish that would otherwise not be accessible without motoring.
Tuna Epoxy Jig: Best used for long range, fast retrieves near the surface Keep rod tip up for surface skip, or rod low for side to side wobble
Slider: Good for fishing the swing, windy conditions and covering ground throughout peak periods of tide. Hold the rod at 45 degrees to let the slider's slow wobble do the work. Vary retrieve speed, accelerate on missed strikes
Protail Swimbait: The best option when butterfish are the primary forage Fast or slow steady retrieve to entice
A walk-the-dog style retrieve with the Hogy XL Dog Walker is great presentation in that it creates a more subtle, waking commotion on the surface that drives fish crazy. Unlike poppers, which some anglers fish way too fast, when you get a spook plug doing its head swinging, side-to-side action, you will typically be moving slowly at a steady pace though the water, which can elicit more reaction strikes than a popper You would use the XL Dog Walker when you know fish are in a general area but are relatively scattered The XL Dog Walker is also an excellent choice to raise fish in deeper water.
WALK THE DOG
To many people, running and gunning is the name of the game but it is highly disruptive to tuna. Tuna and bait fish get very spooked by loud hull noise, engines screaming and changing RPM’s with boats running through schools. Unfortunately, this happens way too often, even when there are plenty of fish Resist the temptation to charge around if unnecessary. It will be tempting to cover lots of ground but will work to your disadvantage unless you can truly get on top of the fish
You’ll want to count how long the fish are staying up feeding for. If they are up for only 3 or 4 seconds, you won’t have a chance unless you are already on scene The magic number is 10 seconds If they are up for 10 seconds consistently, it’s time to motor
Charter Grade
XL Dog
Walker: These simple Dog Walkers have been carefully tuned for easy walk-thedog action with minimal effort Weighing 3oz they are a dream to cast on medium-heavy offshore gear The Charter Dog Walker features multiple rattle chambers for extra sound and vibration, tuna grade through wired construction, and 4X HD rigging.
1 Rod Position: Your rod tip can be pointed in any number of positions when fishing a spook or walk-the-dog plug. Some anglers fish a spook with the rod tip pointed at the water, while others prefer an upward angler between 30 and 45-degrees above horizontal. When watching anglers who are experienced at walking-the-dog, you will see that same side-to-side swing no matter how the rod is held.
2 The idea is to give the rod a quick snap, producing enough controlled slack to allow the head to swing left-and-right. “Controlled slack” means producing enough freedom for the head of the plug to swing while maintaining contact and forward movement in case a fish hits the plug A spook can also be fished like a pencil popper, with the rod held at a 45degree angle while it is pushed-and-pulled
Many pros carry fewer different types of lures but higher quantiles of each. Why? They bring the lures that work for their particular methodology and use a systematic approach to the various situations they may encounter (+backups)
Fast Skippy Retrieve: This is a tip-up, fast-crank retrieve. Great for imitating fleeing sea herring, half beaks and mackerel This is the preferred retrieve to breaking fish or blind casting in calm water when you know fish are in the area.
Steps:
Cast out, collect line.
Point the rod at a 45-degree angle and increase reeling speed and rod tip height simultaneously
As you reel, twitch your rod back sporadically This will cause your Epoxy Jig® Lure to pop in and out of the water simulating a fleeing bait fish
Tip Down Method: Reel-Reel-Reel-Pause / Reel-Reel-Reel-Pause I like to alternate this retrieve with the skippy retrieve. It is similar in that it is a very high-speed retrieve but opposite in the sense that your rod tip is pointed low –literally in the water This will allow you to have a very high retrieve speed without breaking the surface. Another variation I include with the retrieve is sporadic “stalls” I will randomly pause for three seconds and immediately pick back up This will often draw a strike
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Drop and Reel: This retrieve starts with the medium sub-surface retrieve but this time, you will introduce long pauses for up to a minute to let your bait settle as deep as 30’ before reeling again. This is an excellent retrieve for finicky fish. The Hogy Epoxy Jig’s® Lure relatively lightweight allows for a slow decent, which mimics a wounded or recently killed bait fish The drop can also put your lure in the strike zone of suspended fish you may be marking on your fish finder I like to try different “start-again” retrieves after the drop Sometimes I will start slow while others are a hard start. I will switch over the course of one cast.
The Pop-N-Fly retrieve is a technique that allows anglers to present a small, light fly on a heavier spinning outfit. Small flies like the 4″ Tuna Rigged Protail Fly are nearly impossible to cast on a heavy spinning outfit.
That’s where the addition of a large hookless plug comes into play By tying your fly to a larger plug via leader connection, anglers can utilize the casting distance they get from a large plug to present a very subtle and stealthy fly The Pop-N-Fly technique is especially deadly when tuna are feeding on very small forage
To start fishing the Pop-N-Fly, you will need a handful of gear
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The 7″ Charter Grade Popper is super long casting We choose the Clear color for the Pop-N-Fly because it’s as close as your going to get to an invisible presentation The reason for removing the hooks from this plug is because this isn’t your primary lure presentation The Popper acts as a form of transportation for presenting your fly Not only will this Popper allow you to present a small fly, but it will also aid in attracting fish to your fly The surface action given off by the popper grabs the attention of any near by fish, and puts their focus on your presentation.
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The Protail Flys are designed to imitate micro-forage with an ultra-life-like swimming action and profile. Each fly comes rigged with a Mustad 8/0 tuna live bait hook, making it capable of handling tuna up to 100lbs. This fly only weighs 7.5g, so casting them on a heavier spinning outfit is nearly impossible
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Leader Connection: We recommend anywhere from 24″-50″ of 70-80lb fluorocarbon leader for your fly to popper connection
Since this is a presentation for finicky fish, we want to minimize the hardware as much as possible That’s why we recommend a knot connection for this technique A palomar knot connected to both the rear of the popper and your fly is all it takes to start fishing this rig One thing to keep in mind is the longer your leader is, the harder it’ll be to cast your presentation.
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Once the surface activity has been located, slowly motor to the outside edge of the feeding area, making sure to quietly approach the school
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3.
Make a long cast towards the outside edge of the surface activity
Use a slow, sharp twitching motion for surface popping action
Utilize occasional 5-10 second pauses for finicky fish.
Sliders are great for imitating tuna that are keyed in on mackerel, sea herring and half beaks Sliders are also great for blind casting as their large size presents a very visible target. You’ll want to fish sliders on a medium retrieve with your rod pointed so that it is slightly upward – almost horizontal to the water. The lure is designed to have a slow, side-to-side wobble built in.
When tuna are keyed in on sand eels don’t underestimate its casting ability The soft tail has a deadly wobble when on a straight retrieve THAT SAID, My favorite way to fish the Harness jig is the “Kerplunk” method which is my sill way of saying to cast and drop the Hogy Harness Jig into a pile of birds or life and let it drop It’s amazing how many fish pick it up on the drop. I let it sink for a bit, then reel up and drop again
Big poppers are really your best bet when blind casting to tuna, assuming there’s not too many birds to mess with your lures The large style Hogy Charter Grade Popper has the body of our slider but the cupped face from our widely poppers in smaller sizes The result is a typical “NOISY” popper that can transition to a walk the dog action by dropping your rod type, making this lure extremely versatile.
The Hogy Protail Paddle makes a deadly casting bait for tuna keyed in on herring, small bunker, butter fish or other small baits The 6 5” Hogy Protail comes in a number of weights but the 4oz, 5oz and 6oz are the most popular sizes offshore as they are heavy enough to cast with Stella 20,000 sized reels You can retrieve the Hogy Protail Paddle at slow speeds to the very fastest.
The Protail Flys are designed to imitate micro-forage with an ultra-life-like swimming action and profile. Several years in the making, the Hogy Protail Fly has deep roots from Capt. Mike's time as an Orvis-endorsed fly fishing guide on Cape Cod. These heavy-duty softbait flys are made with the same durable soft plastic as our popular pre-rigged Protail Series.
The Hogy Harness Pro Tail series was designed specifically to imitate large baits such as bunker and mackerel This 9” version the same basic shape of the classic Pro Tail Paddle but scaled up to a much bigger “tunariffic” profile. The Harness Paddle also features Hogy Harness Jig rigging system molded inside the jig, connected to an oversized hook resulting in a massive softbait suitable for giant tuna on all class tackle. The 9”, 6oz versions is ideal for jigging
L Ep y J g every self-respecting “Tuna Crate” There’s pretty much nothing you can’t accomplish with these highly versatile jigs. If matching the hatch, color patterns exist for mimicking sand eels, sea herring, mackerel, sardines and half-beaks to name a few. The Hogy Epoxy Jig® can be fished in three different ways, making them very adaptable to just about any casting situation you may encounter.
T W w
minimal effort Our new new XL Dog Walker offers heavy casting weight of 2 5/8oz. They are a dream to cast on heavy inshore and mediumheavy offshore gear The Charter Grade Walker features multiple rattle chambers for extra sound and vibration, tuna grade through wired construction, and 4X HD rigging
TUNA EPOXY JIG
CHARTER GRADE SLIDER
HARNESS JIG
XL TUNA POPPER
HARNESS PROTAIL
TUNA RIGGED PROTAIL FLY
FINICKY SURFACE FEEDING TUNA
TUNA FEEDING ON BUTTERFISH
FAST MOVING SURFACE FEEDS
BOTTOM GRUBBING TUNA
Surface feeding tuna keyed in on larger half-beaks, butterfish & sand eels.
THE BITE THE CHALLANGE
Surface foaming tuna can be ultra finicky when keyed in on specific baitfish. Matching the color and profile of available forage will produce significantly more bites on a consistent basis When fish are spread out and showing in singles and doubles. The Charter Grade Slider can be blind casted to quickly cover ground and locate actively feeding fish.
THE SOLUTION
Simplicity is key Charter Grade Sliders offer excellent side to side kicking action on a steady retrieve. Occasional stop and pause can be imparted when fish follow without committing
Charter Slider
Subsurface Swimmer.
Scattered tuna feeding on butterfish.
THE BITE THE CHALLANGE
Tuna feeding on butterfish can be notoriously picky and tough to catch. Long range casts & imitative bait profiles are necessary for success.
THE SOLUTION
Offered in a variety of casting weights and sizes, the Pro Tail Paddles offer an ideal casting package for imitating butterfish. With casting weights available to 6oz, the Pro Tail Paddle can be casted on XH Tuna Spinning Tackle Heavy Duty VMC rigging is suitable for tuna upwards of 200lbs Cover ground quickly with fan casting techniques on a fast steady retrieve
Protail Paddle
Heavy Thumping Action.
Fast moving tuna chasing surface baitfish schools. Actively pursuing schools underway is necessary
THE BITE THE CHALLANGE
When tuna are seen breaking on the surface, but always out of casting reach. Long range casting lures are necessary to put fast moving fishing into range.
THE SOLUTION
The Tuna Rigged 4oz Epoxy Jig offers incredible casting distance and accuracy on heavy tuna spinning outfits. The Tuna Epoxy Jig offers an excellent side to side kick on a steady retrieve, aiding to quickly cover large swaths of productive water when tuna are moving fast. The Epoxy Jigs through wired construction and 4X VMC Treble Rigging offers superior strength for large Bluefin.
THE BITE THE CHALLANGE
Bottom grubbing tuna keyed in on large sand eels.
When you’re marking tuna down deep on the fish finder but seeing limited surface activity. A fast sinking, imitative sand eel profile produces picky fish
THE SOLUTION
The Tuna Harness Jig’s hydrodynamic profile and heavy weight is ideal for reaching depths of 180’+ in heavy current and varied sea states The long tapered UV Infused Speed Tail offers an imitative sand eel profile perfect for tuna keyed in on oceanic sand eels Ideal for slow-pitch style jigging retrieves, the Harness Jig offers incredible action with short 1’2’ jigging motion
HOGY TUNA JIGGING SPINNING ROD
Like most of our lures, the Hogy System: Hogy Tuna Jigging Rod nails the right weight, action and backbone for long days jigging for big tuna. Designed to accommodate 10,000 to 20,000 class big game spinning reels, this rod is easy and fun to use, weighing only 12oz.
I string this outfit the same as I do as with my 7’ spinning rod: with 100lb holocore with spliced loop for loop-to-loop wind on connections. I prefer casting wind-ons with spinning as the heavy flouro can be a nuisance on the spool
Hogy Tuna Jigging Rods and what are they? Our Tuna Jigging Rod series offers the strength, action and durability for targeting big tuna and offshore pelagic and groundfish species on heavy drag These rods feature a heavy backbone, with just enough tip softness for jigging baits from 4oz - 16oz
HOGY TUNA JIGGING CONVENTIONAL ROD
This rod has similar specs to its spinning rod counterpart, but in the form of a conventional outfit There are a few reasons why anglers might choose to use a conventional jigging rod over a spinning rod for tuna fishing:
Power and Control: Conventional jigging rods provide more power than spinning rods and are designed to give better leverage to an angler when fighting a fish This extra power allows anglers to control larger tuna more effectively, especially when fishing deeper water
Line Capacity: Conventional reels usually have a higher line capacity than spinning reels, which is necessary when targeting tuna golding in deep water that can make long, powerful runs
This rod has enough back bone for ANY tuna you would be willing to catch on stand up Certainly, any jigs you would want to fish It’s a stiff rod, so don’t skip your kettle ball carries at the gym! I fish this rod most often with a 6oz Hogy Harness jig or sand eel jigs to 16oz.
Precision Jigging: Conventional jigging rods offer more precise control over the placement and movement of the jig than spinning rods This level of control can be crucial when targeting tuna at a specific depth because it allows anglers to make subtle adjustments to the jig's movement
I really hate answering something like this with: "it depends..." But the answer here is one of those situations. I will say that I prefer "fishing" with spinning outfits and "landing" with conventional outfits, assuming I have a belt and maybe a harness With spinning outfits, you are jigging the lure with the rod in your strong arm, in my case right hand, and reeling with left hand, the less arduous of the two (Assuming you're right handed ) And in theory, the same dynamics apply when fighting a fish With traditional conventional reels I am working the rod with my left arm and cranking with my right (More Work) BUT and it's a big "but", a conventional outfit is much less taxing fighting a fish in a belt/harness system allowing most of your body to join the fight with proper fighting techniques (pumping with your whole body) LASTLY, and this is just personal preference, I feel like I can work a bait in a more sexy fashion with spinning, others say conventional All in all, my personal rule of thumb is tuna < 150lbs = Spinning and tuna > 100lbs = Conventional But at the end of the day, if all you got is one or the other -> SEND IT DOWN!
Hogy Tuna Jigging Rod Applications:
Slow-Twitch Jigging
Speed Jigging
Dead Sticking
Jigs Up To 16oz For Deep Water
Groundfish
Recommended Reels:
Shimano Saragossa 10000 - 20000
Shimano Stella 10000 - 20000
Diawa Saltiga 10000 - 20000
Hogy Tuna Jigging Rod Applications:
Slow-Twitch Jigging
Speed Jigging
Dead Sticking
Jigs Up To 16oz For Deep Water
Groundfish
Recommended Reels:
Avet JX6
Avet HX5
Shimano Talica 20-25
Diawa Saltiga 15 - 35
Gethere: Gethere:
Fast jigging is associated mostly with metals The bites tend to be more aggressive but you need to also pay careful attention to bites on the drop. This faster speed retrieve allows the angler to cover the entire water column using an erratic twitching retrieve.
Steps:
1
Drop to the bottom
Engage and
levels of the water column. The speed is good in that you can cover all the levels frequently 1. The speed is also good for drawing a reaction strike. 2.
Drop to the bottom or below targets identified on fish finder Engage and reel quickly while jerking the rod - cranking fast a furiously to the surface
Thisismyfavoritejiggingtechniqueforfishingwithsoftbaitsand Ithinkthemostunderutilized It’sagreattechniqueforthosefish youseeonthefishfinderthat“won’tbiteanything.”Ascompared tospeedjigging,aslow-jiggedlureisaneasytargetforlazytuna SlowjiggingworksbestwitheeltailssuchastheHogyHarnessJig Youarerelyingmostlyonboatdriftandslowrodtipmotionsto workthebait.Thenaturalsoftnessoftheplasticdoestherest.It’s reallyaslowmethod Ijokinglyteachpeoplemymethodby instructingtofishlike“youreallydon’tcareaboutfishing ”
TunaHarnessJigs:Averynaturaloptionforslowjiggingasthey offertremendousactionattheslowestspeeds,regardlessofthe shape Paddletailversionswillthumpwithshortsweepsofarod tip Eeltailversionsbody’swillquiverevenwhenleftintheholder atdrift
You’reabletostayinakeystrikezoneforaverylongtime
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3
1 Naturalandsubtlemovementsusedtopresentaslowandeasybaitforalazy tunatoeatisamethodthatisdeadly,especiallywithasoftbaittail
Aneasytechniqueforinexperiencedguestsonyourboat
TWITCH JIGGING
Twitch jigging is a variation of the Slow Jig with the only difference being a series of sharp fast twitches in the rod. It’s almost like you are vibrating the lure with rapid rod tip twitches. This technique works particularly well with the Hogy Sand Eel Jig
Its long, slender profile responds with a lot of jerking rod tip motions The huge benefit of this technique is that you can really dial in a certain depth This is a useful method when “sniping” fish you have identified on the fish finder.
SANDEELJIG
una Harness Jig: Long tails n eel bodied softabaits uiver all the way through he tip of the tail Our top and eel imitator. Not ideal ption when numerous ogfish are in the area.
Sand Eel Jigs: The sand eel jig is a tough duty sand eel imitator What this lure lacks in finesse is made up for in its ability to sink quickly, stands up to dogfish and rig in a variety of conf
Epoxy Jig: Hogy Epoxy Jig’s light body design results in a jig that is highly responsive to twitch jigging. Ideal in depths 180’ and under
TWITCH JIGGING BENEFITS
You’re able to stay in a key strike zone for a very long time Faster motions might trigger a reaction strike
Allows metal lure depth and softbait action.
TWITCH JIGGING APPROACH
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2
Drop to a specific depth that you are targeting
Twitch your rod with fast, short movements
3 4 Every few moments, change the depth by 10-feet and repeat
Once you have too much line out from the boat drifting away from your lure, reel in and repeat
If you are drifting for an extended period while blind casting, it’s often a good idea to drop a softbait down deep and park it in the rod in the holder It’s truly embarrassing to think about how effective this technique is as compared to all the energy and efforts anglers put into fooling tuna
While dead sticking you are literally just putting the rod in the holder and letting the boat do EVERYTHING. This is 100% a soft bait method as the plastic is flexing with each rock of the boat
With the recent developments of fish-finding technology, this technique is becoming more and more popular. In this technique, you are literally cruising around looking for targets to drop on. Search and Drop is the most tactical variation of jigging in that the captain and crew work hand in hand ready to coordinate the drop Each angler is poised and ready for the drop at a moment’s notice.
Go-To Hogy Imitations: If you are dropping on fish that you are marking on the fish finder, you'll want to get the lure down as quickly as you can to catch the fish while it is still close to being under the boat
Tuna Harness Jig: I like eel tail softbaits for tactical drops, as you don't want the "parachute" effect of a paddle to slow you down
Sand Eel Jig: This highly imitative sand eel jig is ideal for jigging when sand eels are present The bait is so long and slender, it has incredible action with hardly any rod movement A simple rise and fall of the rod tip is deadly
Pinpoints finicky fish.
1. The steady RPM’s of the boat will not spook the fish
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2 Covers ground while still being able to study topwater and fish finder.
SAND EEL JIG
Thislureisanall-starwhen tunaakeyedinonmassive amountsofsandeelsonthe lowerthirdofthewater columninrelativelyshallow water Thislong,narrow, metaljigiseasily manipulatedwithrodtip actionandholdsitsdepth reallywell Thesmallersizeis goodforfinickyfishin shallowwaterandthelarger sizesarebettersuitedfor deeperwater
SEARCH & DROP APPROACH
1 2 Identify an active area.
Find a happy cruising speed, maybe 8-knots for searching.
3 4 Have anglers holding their rods at all times, ready to free spool their lure at a moment’s notice
Along with watching the electronics, constantly look for changes in the water and be ready to cast at any water that looks “pushed” or otherwise altered.
HARNESS JIG
It’shardtobeatthislurefor verticaljiggingwhentuna arekeyedinonsandeels Althougholiveisthelogical firstchoice,mytwofavorite “confidence”colorsarebone andsilver Similartoallof ourtunagradesoftbaits,the HogyHarnessEelsareUV infusedwhichmakesthem farmorevisibleindeep water TheHogyHarnessJigs haveacustompaintjobto matchtheeeltails Bulk packsofreplacementtails areavailable
TheHogyEpoxyJig®Lure leadsthehotalbiemarketwith smallerversionsofthistunagradeedition TheHogyTuna GradeEpoxyJig®Lureisthruwiredandfeaturestheultrastrong,andultra-sharpVMC TropicStarHook HogyTuna EpoxyJig®Lurecanbefished ontop,subsurfaceorinadrop andreelpattern.Theyarealso effectiveonaslowdrop–slow jigandatwitchypresentation
HARNESS PROTAIL EEL
Designedforheavy-dutytuna casting,jiggingandtrolling, thisultra-durablepre-rigged softbaitfeaturesthesamedrop anddartactionanglershave cometoloveinourclassicTuna HarnessJigs
ProTailSoftbaitsareinfused withUVforgreatervisibility andpresentation.Theplastic hasincreaseddurability These baitsfeatureaperfect replicationoflargeoceanic mackerel,bonito,false albacore,flyersandmore
ABUNDANCE OF BAIT
THE BITE
Open water Tuna feeding on plumes of Sand Eels in various levels of the water column.
THE CHALLANGE
Tuna bucket feeding on dense sand eel schools
Matching the size, shape and color in a highly imitative fashion is essential if you want to compete.
THE SOLUTION
The Sand Eel Jigs have simplified the challange of "matching the hatch" by offering a variety of lengths, weights and imitative colors that shine when stripers are keyed in on sand eels. While the Hogy Sand Eel Jig is designed for all speeds, it's particularly deadly at high speeds zipping through all levels of the water column
FINICKY TUNA
THE BITE
Finicky Tuna feeding on various finfish
THE CHALLANGE
When Tuna on keyed in on herring, scup and butterfish the Harness Protail Eel offers an imitative profile and excellent subtle tail action when falling or fished on a deadstick.
THE SOLUTION
Best fished with a long cast updrift. Once cast, allow it to sink very close to the bottom and being working the jig slowly, with short pops of the rod trip, and reeling in the slack to create a slow up and down movement. Most of the strikes come on the fall with this method.
SUSPENDED BAIT SCATTERED OPEN WATER TUNA
THE BITE THE CHALLANGE
Tuna keyed in on suspended sand eels, mackerel & herring.
When tuna are feeding in the upper water column, but not busting on the surface the bite can be downright tough to get dialed in! With a variety of colors, the Epoxy Jig can easily imitative a variety of baits
THE SOLUTION
Tuna Epoxy Jigs are best worked with a slow, twitch jigging or dead sticking retrieve We've found the jigs excellent during flat calm conditions where suspended tuna get super finicky and don't seem to commit to traditional presentations. Make sure to adjust your leader size and drop down in lb test as the bite gets tougher.
THE BITE THE CHALLANGE
Scattered tuna feeding on large sand eels in open water.
When tuna are targeting big sand eels in open water, you'll need up upsize your offering THE SOLUTION
Specialized tuna Harness Jig softbaits are ideal for imitating large to jumbo sized sand eels. Work this lure on a lift and drop retrieve, paying close attention for any bites on the drop If you find yourself greeted with finicky tuna on big bait, slow twitching a tuna Harness Jig in the mid-water column is a sure-fire way to get bit. Easy to swap-out Harness Speed Tails make replacing the soft bait quick and painless when dogfish are a nuisance
Hogy Hybrid 5′ 6” with Avet LX class reel + 65lb Braid + 65lb top shot. Ok, I know I talk about this rod all the time I had one custom made just like when I was in 8th grade for multi-purpose use. Back then we would call it a “boat rod” (Holy crap, 30 years ago??) Anyway, I found it in my basement a couple years ago and did my best to find a version that was on the market I got close but But Anyway, this rod is made with a high quality but old-fashioned glass blank. It’s hard to break… Don’t worry, you can if you try! The rod is soft and parabolic and with all the bend, it is very forgiving on “spreader bar caught” tuna that just needs a teeny bit of slack to shake off This outfit is so compact and light, you can literally carry an 8-rod spread to the boat in one trip
A few features that I like about this rod:
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Parabolic Action: Very easy and forgiving for rocking boats Hard to give slack with this outfit…
Cork: I just like the feel and the look
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Short Rod Butt: Easy “hip-fighting” Good for kids and small framed people
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Super durable: I beat the crap out of my gear…
When to use: Tuna up to 100lbs
Action: Moderate Fast
Power: Medium
Length: 5'6"
Check out this trolling video we did with the Hybrid rod during the 2023 Salty Cape filming season: The rod was light and easy on those 55” fish. We landed our fish in about 5 minutes each
We've designed this ultra-fun rod to be the perfect blend of parabolic action, length, weight, and function for light tackle inshore and offshore trolling This no-frills workhorse conventional rod addresses the challenges we've had finding suitable tackle for trolling and jigging
Why Parabolic Action and what is it? These rods offer a softer bend from the rod tip towards the butt section. This forgiving utility allows the angler to feel every pull of the drag and stroke of the fish's tail. This forgiveness is beneficial for trolling, allowing the rod to absorb the strike and offer firm hook sets while used for trolling applications. The Hogy Hybrid Conventional Rod is built for pairing with compact, high-performance conventional reels, these rods are fantastic for leadcore & in-line weight trolling applications. A favorite technique for targeting Striped Bass, Bluefish, and school-sized Bluefin Tuna.
Hogy Hybrid Rod
I fish the same bluewater spread anytime, anywhere. I like big, lightweight spreader bars loaded with smaller bulb squids I’ll fish five bars to simulate the ultimate bait ball I’ll have two weighted lured on flatline clips, where I move their placement in the spread. I rarely deviate from this spread, other than changing colors. In addition to being a highly successful spread, I like the efficiency of a dialed in spread I know just how it swims, I know where it goes and how fast to fish it in any sea conditions, I know how the spread does on turns, etc This allows me to focus on finding fish, not tinkering with lures
SideNote: This spread is ultra light despite its massive footprint, allowing me to fish light weight with an ultra-strong trolling outfit I like lightweight bars capable of trolling up to 7 or 8-knots to cover ground.
Outside Rigger 1: 40-inch FlexiBar – 6-inch UV Green Mack
Inside Rigger 1: 40-inch FlexiBar – 6-inch UV Olive
Flat Line 1: Pre-Rigged Harness
Jig 6oz. Olive Sand Eel
Flat Line 2: Pre-Rigged Harness
Jig 6oz. Tinker Mack
Outside Rigger 2: 40-inch FlexiBar – 6-inch UV Rainbow
Inside Rigger 2: 40-inch FlexiBar – 6-inch UV Amber Squid
Center Line: WWB: Pocket Bird
Bar
1 Typically: calm = fast, rough = slow
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Fish fast or slow and in any sea condition.
Floating Bird bars can often remain “out” while battling fish It never ceases to amaze me how maybe “drifting” bars get hit
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Two Hogy Harness jigs, one in each corner for two reasons (1) Tuna maybe attracted to commotion of big bars but want something small, essentially making the bars a series of billboards (2) When lines are clear and tuna still battling, Hogy Harness jigs and be fished vertically by an extra angler. Often with great success!
3. VIDEO: STEP-BY-STEP DEPLOYMENT
If you get a hit, accelerate an extra 2 or 3kts and count to 30! I’d say 40% of the time this move will induce another strike.
Iliketofishthebirdbarway,waybackforavarietyof reasons.Thebirdfunctionofthebarallowsthebarto swimwellwithoutoutriggers,whichisimportantwhen fishedfurtherback.Thecommotioncanaddattraction becauseitisfarawayfromtheboatswake,alsoan attraction Thebirdbarwillfloat,soifyoubackoff,you canleavethefurtherbackbaroutwhileyoufishthefish andavoidtangles Youcanseewherethebirdis Itissofar back,itmaybedifficultforotherboatstoknowwhereyour lureis,includingyou!
TheHarnessjigshavebecomemyALLTIMEfavoriteflat linecliplureandhavepermanentlyreplacedcedarplugs onmyboat Ifishharnessjigsoneachflatlineclip,about 10feetinfrontofeachofmyclosestspreaderbars.They swiminandoutofthewakeandhavetheappearanceofa confused,lonebaitfish.Theycanbedroppeddownand jiggedwhilefightingafish.Thishasresultedindozensof hookupsonmyboatovertheyearsandwhyIlikethe lightnessofmyrodandreelcombosomuch.It’seasy enoughtoswitchgearsandjig Theyswimwellneara spreaderbarwithoutgettingtangled Ilikehowtheyswim closeandfurtheraway.Theyaretheultimatesandeel hedge Iftunaarekeyedinonsandeels,sometimesthey prefertheHarnessJigsoversmall,olive-coloredsquids thatlikelybroughtthefishtothewake.
Thesedays,Iprimarilyfishlargespreaderbarsriggedwith smallbulbsquids,evenintheCanyons Forstarters,the6inchcommonsizeisperfectformatchingthemajorityof baitfishthatschooltunafeedon Secondly,asimportantly, theyareMUCHlightersotheycanbefishedonlargebars forgreaterpresentationwithminimaldragandstillused onlightergear Lastly,theycanbetrolledfaster,allowing formoregroundtobecovered.IlikeourHogyFlexi-Bars becausetheultra-lightbarpulseswithwaveactionrather thantumble,allowingforroughertrollingorhigher speedsincalmwater.Theyarequitelightintermsofdrag andtheycanbefishedon20lb classgear(likemyoutfit above).
Outriggersworkgreatforsettingupatraditionaltrollingspread!Butletsbe honest,outriggerscanbeapaintodealwith Especiallyifyou’resoleexperienced anglerorfishinginrougherconditions.That’swhereourNoOutriggerTuna TrollingSpreadcomesintoplay!Wewanttosimplifythegameforanglers,andthis trollingspreaddoesjustthat!
Youdon’tneedmuchtogetstartedwiththisNoOutriggerTrollingspread A handfuloflight-tackletrollingrodsriggedupwithHogyDirectionalBirdBarsand yourreadytotroll!
The name of the game with this spread, along with any type of trolling is focussing on the life Keep you eyes peeled for birds, whales, bait, and of course tuna You’ll want stay as close as possible to all this life to enhance the likelihood of a fish seeing your spread
Don’t be afraid to use your electronics to your advantage If you see fish down deeper, or a cluster on your side scan try and “tease” them into your spread by imparting a little action on your bird bars. This can be done by simply cranking a bar in a few feet or picking up the rod and giving the bar a bit more action
Nowthatyouknowwhatgearyouneed,it’stimetosetupyourspreadandstart fishing!Thiscanbedonein3-4quickandeasysteps
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First let out your Center Line Bird Bars (If you have one!) Due to it's position down the centerline, it will stay out of your way for the rest of the deployment TIP: Send this one WAY BACK in search of the lone wolf tuna!
Youdon’tneedmuchtogetstartedwiththisNoOutrigger Trollingspread Ahandfuloflight-tackleoffshore conventionalrods(30-100lblineclass)riggedupwith HogyDirectionalBirdBarsandyourreadytotroll.Evena tunajiggingrodwill work!CheckoutCapt Mike'slight tacklehybridoutfithere:
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It’s a good idea to stagger the lengths of these two bars to cover more water. I prefer to keep the "inside line" by the prop- wash, and the "outer line" much farther out
Pick a side! Each directional bird bar is color coded so you quickly know which side of your boat to let it out on. The Port side is a redish/pink color, think “port wine” color for the “port side”! To minimize tangles, let the outer bar out first It will swim out of your way Once the Outer Directional bar is deployed, let out your inside line on same same of the boat. Repeat on the opposite side!
VIDEO: STEP-BY-STEP DEPLOYMENT
Conventionalreels
Capt MikeusestheAvetLX62-Speed
Aclassic" othe centerlineaspossible OftenfromaT-Toporaleaning post.
Irecommendclassic"straight-line"birdbarsforthe "inside"linesfortworeason:1)Youcanfishthemnear thewashwhichoftendrawsfish.2)itismucheasierand fastertoclearlineswithastraightlineclassicbarwhen fishingafish Youcancontrolwhereitgoes
PORTOUT
Thisisyourpor dinatedeach directionalbird Theport sidebirdbarisaredishpinkcolor,similartothatofport wine Sothink“Portwine”forthe“Portside”
Hi-VisGreenbirdforstarboardplacement
Military “RECON”: (the process by which you collect information about your target) tactics can be used while tuna fishing to increase your chances of finding them.
Here is my classic 30-minute search pattern which should provide enough time and range to investigate all the “tells” in an area.
Best search patterns consider sea conditions, life, and bottom structure
In rough seas you'll want to consider a zigzag pattern to accommodate for a smoother ride. A more linear approach like in the diagram work better in calmer waters allowing for a more organized approach to finding fish
The 100% Everyday Spread: I fish the same offshore spreads anytime, anywhere I love the efficiency of a dialed-in spread, one that you have full command of I know from past experience it looks sexy, that it works, just how it swims, I know where iit goes in the wash, how fast to fish it in any sea condition.
I know how the spread does on turns, literally EVERYTHING ABOUT IT This familiarity allows me to focus on finding fish, not tinkering with lures Simple Set it and forget it.
Bait Ball Effect: I have two variations of “everyday” spreads. One for larger boats WITH outriggers, and one for smaller boats WITHOUT outriggers. Either way, I am trying to accomplish the same thing: a big juicy bait-ball dancing behind my boat! I like MOST of my lures to match in size and profile with a couple of audible options.
WITH Outriggers: For me, trolling with outriggers is ideal as they allow me to fish a couple more rods and with larger spreader bars, namely the Hogy Flexibars that I designed for this spread specifically to pulse and dance just on the edge of the wake on light trolling rods. I just LOVE a bunch of big, lightweight spreader bars loaded with smaller bulb squids. A spread with 5 Hogy Flexi-Bars bars can be fished in Bluewater anytime, anywhere from Cape Cod to Key West and is ultimate simulation of a GIANT BAIT BALL. My secret weapons are the two Hogy Harness Jigs flanking the inside bars a few feet under the surface, simulating a few vulnerable baits lost from “the pack.” Lastly, my third component is WWB (way way back) Center rigger with a floating bird bar is targeting tuna that missed the spread and may be suffering from FOMO.
WITHOUT Outriggers: This spread is essentially the same as above but consists of 4 smaller FLOATING bird bars with larger bulb squids I use the larger squids in this situation to increase visibility to offset for potentially fewer rods and a smaller footprint. I fish the same Hogy Harness Jig Flatlines.
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Keeping calm while under pressure of crashing tuna in the area is huge, particularly if the feeds are relatively infrequent. The competition for approaching feeds can be daunting and even worse, just because the tuna are crashing, it doesn't necessarily mean they are easy to catch
Here's my highly sucessful systematic approach to breaking tuna
Match the hatch but also have a few alternatives in your spread. One off colors such as "shrimp" and one attractor like "rainbow.
Work The Tells: I am obviously going to key in on the breaking fish but I am also going to watch the fish finder for targets in the process. Sometimes the deeper, loner fish separated from the school are more aggressive. With either the Hogy Pro Tails or the Perfect Squids, I can drop to the bottom quickly
Tide/Current: I’m chasing schools and I am more focused on approaching the school properly than I am on the relative current direction but I will be sure to make note of boat/tide direction with every hook up Sometimes the direction in which your are trolling relative to tide/current really matters.
Light: Same goes for positioning relative to the sun.
Depth: We are targeting topwater fish, but we are poised to drop on a fish if we see on the fish finder. In doing so, we’ll take the boat out of gear and put the reel into free-spool for a moment if over 40 feet deep
Depth: We are obviously targeting topwater fish here, but we are poised to drop on a fish if we see on the fish finder In doing so, we’ll take the boat out of gear and put the reel into free-spool for a moment if over 40 feet deep + 1 for the Hogy Harness Jigs on a flat line clip!
Approach: If I am approaching breaking fish, I will pick up the boat speed to as much as 5 or 6 knots to cover some ground and back off once near the school. I’ll give the school a wide berth and try to approach from up wind and have my lures pass in front of the fish, NEVER across the school or from behind. This will spook them. It’s important to note here that stripers won’t mind aggressive approaches the first couple of times but they will become increasingly boat shy as the morning wears on If all boats exercise the same consideration, the action will be hotter for much longer and everybody catches more fish
Troll scanning is a great way to cover ground while fishing all levels of the water column. I refer to this technique as a hybrid between trolling and jigging. While I’m at idle speed, I will send two lures way back on jigging or casting rods I generally like fishing two of the same type of lure to avoid tangles while turning as both lures will react the same way If I see anything – ideally, targets on a fish finder but signs could be surface milling bait, whales, bird life or nervous water I’ll take the boat out of gear and let the jigs drop for at least 60 seconds, at most a few minutes, for a good target before raising them to the top again with the boat back in gear Incidentally, the lures rising back to the surface is when most strikes happen on the troll scan If it’s a long drop on good targets, I’ll fire two jigs over the side on the targets Sometimes all hell breaks loose and multiple rods will go off Champagne problems as they say
Scattered fish at verious levels in the water column. No discernible patterns
I know some people will question the engine noise and the easily spooked fish in this situation I run a diesel engine boat and feel my engine noise is not an issue; the pitch is different and quieter My RPMs are consistent but I also believe it to be important with gas or diesel engines. I think outboards but they are more likely to pick up and bury the throttle hence the bad rep on spooking fish I bet if anglers ran their outboards like diesels while cruising around, less spooking would occur. Variable depths: You want lures that will fish close to the surface on the troll but drop quickly when the boat is out of gear For that reason, I like the Hogy Pro Tail Paddles series for the job. They have a lot of drag so they rise to the surface when trolling but they come in heavy weights up to 16oz, so they drop fast when out of gear I will simply put (2) 6 5” Hogy Pro Tail Paddles way back and idle along, vectoring toward anything that looks juicy Look for signs: I “break for any targets” when troll scanning around scattered pods.
Cast on every stop: If you are stopping and dropping, chances are there’s a reason If it’s good enough to stop, it’s good enough to blind cast
Trolling Technique: This spread is best trolling at 4-8 knot speeds Speed is usually determined by sea state and how aggressively fish are feeding Slow speeds in rough conditions, faster trolling in greasy calm conditions When fish are located on the fish finder, drop the boat out of gear for 30 to 60 seconds. This pause allows the Harness Jig to sink deep in the water column, after the pause, resume trolling speed, giving the lure a quick pulse towards the surface. Most strikes occur during this pause and drop technique
Flat Line Clips: Starting with a flatline clip, you want to thread the flatline clip through the cleat so it is secure and then, if applicable, send the flatline clip out the scupper. Grab the running line, reach over and connect it to the flatline clip This creates a low profile and you’ll need less line to get the lure in the proper position Let the harness jig out so it is roughly twenty-five to forty feet back.
No Flat Line Clip Option: If you don’t have a flatline clip, you can use a rubber band You want to calibrate it where you think you want the harness jig and then take the running line and the rubber band, fold it over the line to keep the angle low, and, although some people clip it on the handle, Capt Mike personally puts it on the reel seat for a much lower presentation
Shorter Rods (5'6" – 6’): Best for vertical jigging. Offers greater leverage and easier handling du close quarters combat with big tuna Disadvantages include reduced casting distance and potenti strain on the line *Capt Mike’s Choice Jigging
Medium-Length Rods (7'0"): A versatile choice for casting with a good balance between range a manageability. Suitable for various techniques but with slightly less leverage for vertical battles. *Capt. Mike’s Choice Casting
Longer Rods (8' and up): Ideal for long-range casting to cover more water. They enhance lure ac but offer less leverage in fights and can be tiring over time
Short Butt: Typically, around 12 to 15 inches Allows fast, aggressive fishing and easy maneuverability, especially in stand-up fishing without a fighting belt Provides longer casting due to a longer tip section. *Capt. Mike’s Choice “I prefer longer casting length and cockpit maneuverability A shorter butt lets me fight a fish off my hip, allowing me use of core muscles to supplement my back and arms
Medium Butt: Generally, falls between 15 to 20 inches Balances casting and fighting capabilities, offering decent leverage and maneuverability.
Long Butt: Usually exceeds 20 inches, often up to 25 inches or more Maximizes leverage, especially when used with a fighting chair or harness. Suitable for the under-arm Japanese style of fighting fish, where the rod is tucked under the arm for better leverage and control
Fast Action: Bends primarily at the tip before the overall bend kicks in. Offers great sensitivity and casting distance but less shock absorption Ideal for precision casting and control in fights
Moderate Action: Bends more evenly than fast action rods, providing a good balance between sensitivity and shock absorption Less aggressive in hook setting but more comfortable during lon battles. *Capt. Mike’s Choice Casting
Parabolic (Slow) Action: Bends uniformly along the length, resembling a parabola. Excellent for deep-water jigging and absorbing the energy of large tuna It offers less sensitivity but provides a significant advantage in tiring out the fish *Capt Mike’s Choice Jigging
Medium Power: Ideal for smaller tuna under 125lbs These rods offer sensitivity and control, suitable for lighter lures. *Capt. Mike’s Choice lures under 4oz.
Medium Heavy Power: Best for medium class tuna under 300lbs, providing a balance of strength flexibility. *Capt. Mike’s Choice lures under 4oz and up
Heavier Powers: Designed for bigger tuna and heavier lures, providing substantial backbone for toughest fights
Selecting the right rod for tuna fishing is about finding the perfect balance between rod length, bu length, action, and power for your style of fishing Whether casting to surface feeders or battling d water giants, the right combination of these factors can significantly enhance your enjoyment and success.
10000 to 14000: Reels in this category make excellent combo reels for heavy inshore and light tackle casting offshore A reel in this class typically weighs around 23oz so not a light reel by any means but still considerably lighter than an 18,000 reel that is 10z heavier. I have 14,000 reels on my Hybrid inshore rods In theory, I only need a 10,000 but the 14,000 weighs about the same and gives me extra line capacity and retrieve speed with a larger spool diameter A 10,000 typically holds about 400-450 yards of super braid line, depending on the line strength and brand and a 14,000 will hold closer to 500yds I load mine up with an 80 lb super braid line and pair it with an 80lb fluorocarbon leader tied directly. A 14000-class reel will land just about any tuna under 150lbs on my Hogy Hybrid Spinning Rod and we have caught a number of bluefin on film with this outfit Paired with a heavier rod, a 14000-class reel can be pushed to land a 200lb fish The 14000 has a very high gear ratio of 6.2:1, which means the spool revolves 6.2 times per crank. 6.2:1 is very fast which is nice when casting to top water tuna, working lures at high speed with minimal effort and also for getting control of line in windy situations. This high gear ratio also makes it difficult to work a lure slowly, FWIW
18000: The 18000 class reel is my go to for casting to large tuna, say 150lbs and up. I expect to get about 500 yards of 80lb heavy super braid on my Stella version and about the same with 100lb hollow core as the hollow line lays flat on the spool. I go back and forth with line types for my 18000s On one hand, the hollow core lasts longer, is more chafe resistant and allows for a smooth sliced wind on the leader but on the other hand, it doesn’t cast as well as super braid I switched back to super braid last season and enjoyed the extra casting distance. That said, if I expected to switch hit this reel with casting AND jigging, I would absolutely put hollow core on it The 18000 has a pretty high gear ratio at 5 7:1 considering its size, but not too fast It’s a very versatile speed It’s not prohibitively fast for jigging and offers plenty of torque My 18000 and 2000 weigh about 32 oz each
20000: The 20000-class reel is my jigging version of the 18000. I expect to get over 550 yards of 80lb heavy super braid on my Stella version and like my 18000, about the same with 100lb hollow core as the hollow line lays flat on the spool The 20,000 has a slower gear ratio a 4 4:1, almost two full revolutions slower than the 14000. While this will facilitate a slower retrieve and inhibit a faster retrieve, you will find more torque with this style reel All my 20000s are loaded with 100lb test hollow core with 130lb fluoro leader, ready to serve as my heavy jigging reels pair on my Hogy System Jigging rod, with a forgiving parabolic bend for vertical battles
Reel Size: Size is indicated by numbers like 8000, 10000, 20000, etc. The higher the number, the bigger the reel
Weight: While larger reels offer more line capacity and drag power, they are also heavier It's crucial to balance the need for capacity and power with the comfort and fatigue factor, especially during long fights.
Drag Rating: Look for reels with a high maximum drag rating For large tuna species, a reel with a drag rating of at least 25-30 pounds is recommended, more so for durability’s sake than fighting at max settings Personally, I rarely fight a fish on more than 15 lbs of drag, when measured off a bent rod. It’s a lot. If I need more to stop a run, I apply a gloved hand to the spool from time to time.
Quality: The quality of the drag system is just as important as the maximum drag rating A smooth, consistent drag without jerks or hiccups is crucial in keeping the line tension and preventing breakoffs during a tuna’s sudden runs
Gear Ratio / Speed vs. Power: The gear ratio of a reel affects its retrieval speed A higher gear ratio reel retrieves the line faster but offers less torque for fighting big fish Conversely, a lower gear ratio provides more cranking power at the expense of retrieval speed. A medium-high gear ratio (like around 4 5:1 to 5 5:1) is often a good compromise for tuna fishing
Handle: A comfortable and sturdy handle is vital for long battles with tuna Having the right handle is a bigger deal than you might think Everyone’s grip is different Try as many as you can before pulling the trigger.
Tuna are fickle fish that have regularly driven me crazy for nearly 40 years My love for tuna is fueled by (1) part passion to (1) part addiction. I mostly love them but often hate them! I have made every mistake you can imagine out there. Hopefully this systematic approach might help you avoid some of the heart ached and wasted gas money I have spent over the years
Simply put, tuna wander
If you think about it, you really don’t have much structure to anchor fish offshore You are pretty much at the mercy of the direction the bait is heading, the ability of Bluefin tuna to find said bait and lastly, and most importantly, hoping the fish are in the mood to eat. Finding them is the hard part!
There are a lot of moving parts to assess, to say the least Putting together a logical and adaptable strategy before heading out puts you in a far better position to catch Your ability to read the situation once there and adapt to it will help that much more IMO, the key to tuna success is knowing when to stick around and when to run Here’s how I have learned to break down the situation over the years and make calculated decisions based on experience, rules of thumb and common sense.
Everyone loves reports. In theory they deeply cut the curve. In theory... I would say tuna reports go as planned less than 50% of the time without any re-work Here’s why:
What’s Your Report Status?
No Reports: Congratulations! You’re Fishing Blind: Hahaha, In this case, you ARE the report When and where the tuna are anybody’s best guess, especially when they first show up at the beginning of the season Someone must be first! If you don’t head out and look, the most you’ll know is that there aren’t any tuna swimming around at home or in your office Your focus on this trip is to leverage historical analysis.
Ask yourself these questions
What’s typical for this time of year? Mean average of past years' early hotspots is not a bad bet Access your log or local sites like saltycape com to view archived reports.
Is this year different in any way? Colder? Hotter? ? If so, if the same pattern continues to happen with other cycles, what would that look like?
What are the environmental factors like wind and tide in the forecast? How might they impact your historical information?
What’s typical for forage this time of year? You can’t always identify what’s around by sight “Typical forage” is always the best place to start to have your rods rigged and ready with
Yes Reports: Great, you have recent reports! Your focus on this trip is to replicate as much as possible and work from there to adapt to the new days’ conditions. Many times, the playbook remains unchanged, but many times, a new day in the same spot calls for a few small adjustments to fully capitalize. If the fishing is not happening, look at what has changed
Ensuring you have these details will help you immensely with your environmental analysis in planning and your situational analysis when on scene:
Ask yourself these questions.
Time to bite?
Time of slack tide?
Was the bite best at slack tide?
What bait were they feeding on?
What is the wind direction and speed that day?
Compare conditions during last report and today’s weather and extrapolate time of slack tides and extrapolate where wind and current might push fish If it’s a recent report, tide differences will vary only by a couple of hours Develop your plan
Obviously start where the last known information left off with minor triangulation for environmental factors such as tide and wind
If no fish or inadequate tells, head the direction the wind and tide differences might have pushed the fish
If still poor fishing, time to run the spots It’s handy to have a float plan ready to go so you can gauge how long it will take you to hit the other “known areas” within range. Sometimes a hot spot just needs a couple of hours to develop. A loop with a return could hedge that bet.
Early Season Reports: Keep in mind early fish are movers! Early season bluefin will often blow right through a spot A report just tells you where they were yesterday Even with a report, the ability to find your own fish is needed at least 75-percent of the time, at least to some degree The fish may have moved only 10 miles but if you are too hung up on “the spot” you’ll miss valuable time sniffing around to find your own fish I can’t tell you how many times I have scrambled based on a good report only to discover that the fish had moved
Peak Season Reports: A report might take you to where there is unpleasant boat traffic or mediocre fishing It’s a fact boats put fish down There may have been a good bite at 8 a m but by 9 a m , it’s over. Have you ever pounded a spot with the fleet all day only to end up getting skunked? By running your own playbook, you might find a bigger and better situation I never regret picking up and moving out of a crowded fishing situation with less than par fishing. After all, it’s the thrill of the hunt that keeps us coming back The fact is the most efficient way to get tuna is at the fish market
Congratulations! You have a clear schedule and are fired up for your next day on the water Your goal now is to assess environmental factors such as weather, tides, moon phase etc.and plan accordingly to establish where and when you are going Also use this information to create a backup plan as you extrapolate your information at hand with environmental changes
If you know what time the fishing was good yesterday, consider adjusting for the timing of today by 30 or 40 minutes If you’re fishing at a later stage of the tide than yesterday’s hot bite, it’s important to understand that bait, and consequently tuna, move with tide over the cycle and fishing can move as many as a couple of miles over a couple hours of fishing If you are fishing without a report, use this same concept to your advantage. The stage of the tide at hand might help suggest where to “put lines in ”
Questions to answer regarding tides:
Where are you in the tide stage? The period of slack between tide stages can kill the action.
If you are chasing a detailed report, are you compensating for daily time shifts in tide? I always use 30 to 40 minutes per day as a rule of thumb to ensure I am not late. So say my buddy has a great session on Monday at 5:00 Am, and I could get out on Wednesday, I would add 96 minutes to my target time.
I would still have more questions.
Did my buddy catch the tail end of action? I would subtract time for my target estimate.
Did she leave while it was still hot? That gives me some time to factor in
Obviously a non-issue if you are replicating a report, but there’s a few good rules of thumb here Bluefin Tuna love to feed at slack tide, so that’s technically “tide driven” Time factors to look at are the biggest such as:
Am I leaving early enough for sunrise?
Should I stick around for the late afternoon bite?
Is it going to get extra windy this afternoon? Not really a fishing tip, but the winds offshore are often fractional to the “land winds” in the afternoon as you approach land. I have been beat up forgetting/ignoring that more times than I care to remember
Weather can be the X-Factor from one day to the next, really impacting a tuna’s mood
What's the sun doing? Bright?
Overcast/rainy? In bright conditions, you may want to go earlier or later in the day. But if that’s not an option bright conditions usually merit brighter lures and lighter leaders Overcast and darker conditions tend to make fish less finicky Dark conditions merit darker lures.
Are fish following the general direction of the wind? Ask yourself if the past day-today variations on where they were was consistent with the prevailing wind direction If they are moving with the wind, use this Intel to project where you might start.
What’s the Moon Phase? Moon phase is often important information Fish often feed through the night on full moons making them less willing to eat by day Time to extra cater to the fish and give them no excuses to not eat. In contrast, during a new moon when the night is darkest, tuna might be less active at night and therefore more likely to feed during daylight hours This could potentially make them easier to catch during the day Tides are also stronger during a full moon.
Bluefin tuna migrate regardless of water temp and target local baits But water temps and breaks can be important for bluefin if bait is held up on a temp break as that’s where they will be YFT in waters south of Cape Cod often host warm water eddies that pinch themselves off from the Gulfstream. Warm eddies drifting in toward shore are good signs that tuna may be here Usually by July you will see temp breaks within range of medium sized center consoles. These eddies typically rotate in a clockwise fashion and often drift toward the coast depending on wind conditions. These “eddies” bring temperature breaks between cool water and warm where bait will get corralled by the invisible fence of warm or cool water. Temp breaks serve as defined structure in a vast ocean
Wind plays a huge factor both in terms of tuna mood and the direction they head in, most likely following the bait
What’s the wind direction? How Strong is it? How long has it been blowing in this direction? There’s a lot to unpack here For starters, wind direction can impact fishing. For example, here on Cape Cod, an East or Northeast Wind can really shut down fish’s moods That said, if it’s a few days in the same direction they will acclimate. No wind at all can make fish finicky A lot of wind might impact how you approach school if using small hard to cast lures?
Did the wind change from yesterday? If so, where might that wind direction have pushed the fish over the night? Did it change to the East or Northeast? Still seeing marks? Well that just stinks, because that wind kills fishing! In that case, you might be better off grinding it out where you know the fish are. You’ll be in the same boat in any other spot!
After conducting an environmental analysis, the next critical step is Decision Making This phase involves integrating your historical data, whether from previous seasons' migrations or recent reports, with current environmental conditions Here's how to approach it:
Dive deep into understanding the intricate details of environmental factors relative to whatever historical intel you have, whether it’s reports, experience, or common knowledge. Apply your historical knowledge, such as past migratory patterns and behaviors and recent intel if you have it to your current environmental analysis assessing factors like current weather conditions, wind direction, and tidal movements
Based on this combined analysis, modify your initial plan to accommodate changes in environmental factors such as wind direction shifts or tidal times For example, wind shifts might push the bite downwind a few miles…. Analyze the tide times and adjust your fishing schedule accordingly A safe rule of thumb is adding 40 minutes per day to accommodate for replicating the salient tide stage on a later date.
Utilize all available information to formulate a backup plan. This plan should account for potential scenarios where your primary plan might not be viable due to sudden environmental changes or even situational changes like prohibitively heavy boat traffic that is spooking fish Opting to target groundfish, such as cod, is usually always an option if the tuna bite is just not happening
I'm fixated on a simple gear system that aligns with my straightforward approach to finding fish That means a tight selection of the same jigs, plugs, soft baits, and trolling lures that I know like the back of my hand. A simple gear system allows me to focus primarily on environmental and situational factors, with my gear list remaining consistent on every trip The only change from trip to trip is what lures I have pre-tied on my rods based on what I 'expect' to encounter, but I am ready to adapt with an audible at a moment's notice I treat my Mesh Crate loaded with lures like a set of golf clubs; the same set goes with me each time, but I use each of my small selection of lures differently and regularly, according to each unique but categorizable situation I find myself in.
OK! You made it. Regardless of your path to this spot, it’s now time to “look out the window” and see what you’re dealing with. A detailed reading of the situation will result in peak success
What is getting preyed on? Here on Cape cod, the list is long Is it krill, silversides, crabs, sand eels, eels, herring, mackerel, squid, sand eels, pogies, scup, scavenged bottom fish? Often you can see what they are eating, but sometimes you can’t That’s when seasonality comes into play
Are there small pods of bait getting intermittently blasted? If so, your approach will have to be more tactical.
HUGE plumes of bait? If so, fish can be “lure blind” as they bucket feed through the schools. There is such a thing as too much bait It can be very frustrating Do you drop lures on their head right in a feed? -OR- work the parameter targeting fish that have been separated from the feed
Small Blips on the Bottom: At depths of 120’ or more, what appears as small blips on your fish finder could indeed be a significant tuna The scale of depth can make large fish appear deceptively small on the screen. It's essential to consider the context of the surrounding water depth and the fish finder's se accurately
VIDEO:SITECASTING TUNAWITHSIDESCAN
I am admitingly new to side scan fishing but have quickly become obsessed, especially after “sight casting” to tuna we marked on side scan. We had just arrived “late to the party” –a feed we missed by 5 or 10 seconds Jack sent a shot off the bow where they were just crashing a few seconds ago I was still holding my rod at the helm when I looked down at my side scan and saw a few marks a beam to us I fired off a cast with my Hogy Epoxy Jig Lure and instantly got tight. If you are serious about tuna fishing, it’s an expense worth having Made the difference on that trip and dozens after Check it out above
Topwater Appearance: Sand eels near the surface may create subtle dimpling effects, similar to raindrops. Predators quickly breaking the surface in pursuit can often indicate sand eels below
Sonar Appearance: On sonar, dense schools of sand eels appear as thick clouds or elongated blobs, reflecting their tightly packed schooling behavior.
Match the Hatch: Slim, elongated metal jigs or soft plastics that can be retrieved with a swift, jerky action mimic the slender profile and quick movements of sand eels, making them ideal for targeting tuna focused on this prey
Marks Around a clouds or blobs representing schools of baitfish When y uds, indicating tuna, circling, or moving through the bait ks around bait schools
Classic Arches: many anglers look for The ones in all the ads for fish finders The arch shape forms as the fish enters and exits the transducer beam's coverage area. The thicker the middle of the arch, the larger the fish. Classic arches are a strong indicator of fish presence and can indicate tuna swimming at a consistent depth
Streaks Indicating Fish Blasting Through a School: Vertical streaks on the fish finder screen can indicate tuna, aggressively blasting through a bait school. These marks are characterized by thei directional and speed-implied appearance, differentiating them from the more static arches or b
Marks Around the Bottom Simulating Tuna Grubbing on Sand Eels: When you see marks clutter around the seafloor, it can suggest tuna feeding behavior, particularly if they are targeting bottomdwelling prey like sand eels on schools of groundfish These marks might appear as irregular shapes or clusters, indicating the dynamic interaction between the predators and their prey
Topwater Appearance: Schools of pogies can cause noticeable surface splashes and disturbances, with fish often rolling or flipping at the surface Large slicks on the water may also indicate their presence after being fed upon
Sonar Appearance: Pogies appear as dense, sizable blobs on sonar, often tightly packed and moving cohesively, making them easy to distinguish from more scattered baitfish schools
Topwater Appearance: Herring being pursued will frequently jump or flick at the surface, creating distinct splashes Birds diving and hovering can also indicate herring schools below
Sonar Appearance: Herring schools show up as medium to large marks on sonar, typically more dispersed than pogies but less so than smaller
Match the Hat swimbaits or p swimming action of pogies are effective Fishing these lures with a steady retrieve or occasional twitches can entice tuna targeting these larger baitfish.
Topwater Appearance: Mackerel may not show much surface activity unless being actively pursued, but quick, sharp disturbances or splashes could indicate their presence. Often you will see mackerel feeding on and eels Tuna could be feeding on mackerel and/or sand eels The way to tall is watching for marks near “blobs of sand eels” on your finder
Sonar Appearance: Individual mackerel or small, tight schools appear on sonar as distinct, clear marks due to their streamlined bodies, sometimes forming larger, more cohesive shapes when d l k d
Notes: Generally speaking, tuna (or any species for that matter) are easy to catch when feeding on pogies, especially if big schools get separated into a series of smaller ones Assuming you can fish through birds, large poppers and walk the dog style lures can be effective blind casting baits for when things settle down but you know that tuna are still in the area I designed the very large Pro Tail Harness Paddle specifically for tuna keyed on pogies. It’s massive swimbait that is strong enough to land giants of which it has claimed many… The great thing about the Harness Pro Tail paddle is that it weighs 6oz and can be cast on some serious outfits It’s 6oz weight also helps it to get under menacing birds that are all too willing to
use medium-sized metal j swimbaits with a pronoun swimming action A varied retrieve, combining steady pulls with occasional pauses, can effectively mimic herring movements.
Thermocline can be seen as a visible “wall” displayed on sonar returns Often Captains will confuse the water density change as a line of bait when in reality it is the aggregation point of mid water plankton In this example you can clearly see bait schools along bottom below as well as along the barrier of the deep thermocline and a passing school of predators above the thermocline (likely tuna here)
, moving lures that mimic the mackerel's speed and shiny appearance are ideal. Large spoons, metal jigs, or shiny plugs retrieved quickly or with an erratic action can attract tuna feeding on mackerel.
Notes: I often find mackerel fed tuna to be challenging. I can think of more times than I care to admit when out on “the spot” while the fleet is catching tuna on live mackerel and yet I am not even so much as marking any on the finder I know this is the “finding fish” section of the playbook and that in this instance there are technically tuna in the area, I often pick up and “scout” when this happens It’s hard to leave fish to find fish but I thought I would share my “play” in this situation
Topwater Appearance: Juvenile butterfish, when feeding or evading predators, can create subtle surface disturbances Their presence might not be as conspicuous as other baitfish but look for slight ripples or the occasional flash of their rounded bodies near the surface.
Sonar Appearance: On sonar, schools of juvenile butterfish may appear as small, dense clusters or patches Their round shape and tendency to school tightly can create distinct, compact blobs, different from the more elongated marks of sand eels or the scattered signatures of larger baitfish.
Match the Hatch: When tuna are feeding on juvenile butterfish, lures that mimic the small, rounded profile of butterfish are effective Soft plastic baits in pale or silvery hues, worked with a slow, steady retrieve or gentle jigging action, can replicate the gentle, fluttering movement of butterfish.
Notes: Every region has a tuna sub-season that drives anglers crazy IMO, that is the butter fish bite here on Cape Cod. For starters, you’ll know juvenile butter fish are around when you see tuna swimming around in packs at impossibly slow speeds or by random and small feeds that can be measured in single digit seconds. You can see them, that’s for sure And sometimes you can even cast to them! But if your lure is too big, too noisy, or improperly casted, you will be out of luck Even if you do everything perfectly, it's still a 50/50 shot, at best. Here is a video I filmed a few years ago when I cracked the code on butter-fed tuna with the Hogy Pro-Tail paddle The lure was still new, and I hadn’t fully tested it on tuna Well, the good news was that “testing was compete” from the get-go. Since then, I know when the butters show up when paddle sales go through the roof in MidAugust Obviously, I am biased as I sit here and type this with a Hogy Hat on, but I deeply believe that the Hogy Protail Paddle is your best bet for these finiky tuna It’s small (5” and 6”) options, at least 3oz casting weight (up to 6oz), can be fished fast and slow and has a soft entry in the water
Topwater Appearance: Squid chased by predators may cause frothy disturbances on the surface, especially noticeable at night under lights. Predatory fish leaping or darting at the surface can also indicate squid presence.
Sonar Appearance: Squid schools display on sonar as irregular, somewhat scattered marks due to their inconstant swimming patterns and ability to rapidly change depth
Match the Hatch: For tuna feeding on squid, using lures that mimic squid's erratic darting actions is crucial. Soft plastics can be effective when jigged or retrieved with sudden, jerky movements to simulate a fleeing or injured squid
Notes: I always carry squid biki jigs in my crate in case someone wants to live line squid for tuna. I just pop on a sand eel jig and send it down In my case it is to bring home squid for dinner! Historically, I have noticed that there are often squid mixed with sand eels. For example, last summer there was an epic bite South of MV at the Suffolk There were captains I know catching tuna on live squid in the same area while tuna we were catching in the same area were coughing up sand eels When in doubt, I often drop sand eel jigs like we did in this video. You can fish them fast or slow Pin point or cover ground. I mix Olive (sand eel) and pink (squid)
Watch Here
Topwater Appearance: Halfbeaks often cause a unique surface disturbance due to their long, slender bodies and tendency to leap out of the water when pursued. Look for linear streaks or splashes on the surface as they attempt to escape predators.
Sonar Appearance: On sonar, halfbeaks can appear as thin, linear marks due to their elongated bodies. They may form loose schools, with the sonar signatures reflecting their less compact schooling behavior compared to other baitfish.
Match the Hatch: Targeting tuna feeding on halfbeaks requires lures that can imitate the slender profile and erratic action of these baitfish. Long, narrow soft plastics or Hogy Epoxy Jig Lure styled jigs worked with a fast, erratic retrieve can mimic the fleeing motion of halfbeaks. Surface lures that walk the dog or have a slender profile can also be effective, especially during active surface feeds.
Notes: Spraying Half beaks are so cool to watch They jump in perfect unison, “spraying” as they flee tuna Half beaks are very fast swimmers making tuna that are feeding on them “work” for their lunch. I think it’s the fact that tuna miss a lot of half beaks that makes them so aggressive when they are around. That’s the good news. The hard part is that tuna is often very scattered when keyed in on half beaks which is why I like to have long range casting lures rigged and ready in this situation Sometimes you’ll seed “pods” of tuna milling around looking for the halfbeaks If that’s the case, you want to properly lead them with a proper cast. In this situation your lure is all alone by itself in very clear water I’ll often downgrade my leader strength when imitating half beaks, as low as 60lb, especially for fish under 80lbs
As I mentioned earlier, there is minimal structure offshore to hold fish and the hardest part of the whole equation is finding tuna What I like about birds is how easily you can find them both with keen eyesight and with the use of radar, making them an invaluable resource offshore So often you are within mere miles of action all day during a skunking and maybe if you had spent a little more time looking at your radar you could have spotted life. Of course, you can also search for birds by cruising down wind, following moving whales or even heading in the direction of multiple single birds flying in the same direction Other times, you maybe halfway into a long run passing birds the whole way and by knowing what to look for you might have saved yourself a lot of running time by knowing when to stop!
The different types of birds and their behaviors point to different signs, some more valuable than others Knowing when to stop and how long to stay is the art For example, the first tuna shoot we did last season could have gone far less favorably had we not been paying attention It was one of those days when there were birds for miles indicating bait was stretched for miles. We were about 10 miles from our intended destination and noticed a very small cluster for shearwaters “vortexing” meaning they were very tightly compacted, vertical and flying around each other, clearly focusing on a “point of exit” from bait. We slowed down veered in. They didn’t even notice us. Sure enough, a tuna popped out of the water Once cast later we were tight None of us expected that but we new to read the situation.
Watch Here
Boats put fish down. If that is happening to you, it’s a good time to lead by example and by best practices Understand the fish dynamics. Try skipping the running and gunning to make long drifts where there’s an observable pattern. I am convinced changes in RPMs are what disrupt the fish the most This move requires a little patience when other boats are zipping around “putting the fish down” but I’m almost certain you’ll get more fish in the long run. Fish that come to you are more willing to eat than when blasted on.
Watch Here
The appearance of birds on radar screens can vary depending on the specific radar model and the radar settings being used. These blips may be scattered across the screen or clustered together in a specific area, indicating the presence of a group of birds. Sometimes even just one or two birds. For bird detection, you will need a radar with a high frequency range, typically above 24 GHz
Set Radar Manually: Set the radar to a narrow beam width: A narrow beam width will allow you to focus the radar signal on a specific area and detect small targets such as birds more easily Adjusting sensitivity settings will help you optimize the radar for detecting birds while minimizing interference from other sources.
1
Sea Clutter To 0
2
Rain Clutter to 0
Gain up to just to the point where you get some static 3
Auto Bird Mode: Most modern radar units have an “auto bird setting” that will make these adjustments for you. It’s literally as easy as hitting “the bird” setting.
times when e in terms of is just too one is . Here’s a s ago where rowds The “word” got od was there, up and started leaving some crashing tuna o were clearly or 7 miles and nd them…. We s
Lure Strategy: Terns are NOT a good sign of tuna but might indicate close to shore mackerel keyed in on sand eels which may be a good tell if you are seeking some macks to pop in your live well.
Small Baitfish Indicator: Terns often dive for small bait fish like sand eels and silver side, largely hinting at inshore species forcing bait to the surface Often you see turns before or just at the point of demarcation between inshore or offshore.
Gulls Larger Baitfish Presence: Gulls hovering and picking at the surface usually indicate larger baitfish such as herring, pogies, or squid, which are key indicators of potential tuna activity. Gulls are less energy-efficient than terns and will only expend energy where there's a substantial reward, often associated with larger prey that tuna also target. Here on Cape Cod, I tend to see more gulls on the “South Side” not too distant from Martha’s Vineyard For example, last season, I had gulls around me while jigging up squid at a pot Called The Claw the giants were keyed in. I was outgunned for giants but not calamari!
Lure Strategy: The presence of gulls can be a more reliable sign of tuna, especially if they are focused on a specific area where baitfish are being pushed to the surface Consider using larger topwater lures or subsurface offerings that can imitate the size and movement of the baitfish Look for busting fish or deeper sonar marks as signs to deploy your lures Gulls are suggestive of a possible topwater bite
Gannets Sign of Deep-Water Feeding: The dramatic, high-diving behavior of gannets is a strong indicator of significant baitfish schools below, which can attract large tuna. Gannets can dive from heights of up to 100 feet and plunge into water depths far greater than terns or gulls, indicating the presence of baitfish and potentially predatory tuna in deeper waters.Diving Gannets are telltale signs of significant baitfish schools below. Gannets are massive birds and won’t extend all that energy without a big fat reward
Lure Strategy: Gannets diving in a specific area is a strong signal to target depths below the surface action This behavior suggests active feeding by larger game fish, including tuna. Use heavy jigs, deep-diving plugs, or weighted soft plastics to reach the action Pay attention to the direction of the diving gannets and the drift; setting up a drift or a slow troll through these areas can be effective in hooking into tuna feeding below the surface
Indicator of Upwelling and Bait Concentrations: Often called "Jesus birds" for their ability to flutter and "walk" on the water's surface, storm petrels can indicate areas of upwelling where nutrients and baitfish are abundant, attracting tuna. I will say this about storm petrels. I always see them when tuna are around, but I often see them when tuna are not
Lure Strategy: The sighting of storm petrels can signal productive fishing zones If storm petrels you’re your best tell, recon the area while trolling with spreader bars or plugs while you summarize the situation
Pelagic Indicator: Shearwaters are often found further offshore and are adept at locating schools of pelagic fish, including tuna They glide low over the water, picking off baitfish disturbed by feeding tuna below the surface. They are very greedy and aggressive birds so their presence doesn’t guarantee tuna as they will work hand in hand with whales and mackerel feeding on sand eels It’s important to overlay shearwaters with the bird tells below. I want very stubborn shearwaters combined with some tuna marked on my fish finder or “vortexing” and very excited about a feed
Lure Strategy: The presence of shearwaters suggests that tuna may be feeding on subsurface baitfish schools Anglers should consider using subsurface lures like metal jigs, swimbaits, or even trolling feathers and cedar plugs designed to mimic the fleeing baitfish. Shearwaters are not the sharpest birds on the water and are greedy and aggressive making them a high nuisance bird, often rendering topwater plugs impossible to use as they will get hooked with every cast. default to a heavy 6oz swimbait, A 6oz Slider, or a 4oz Fasting sinking jig for casting jigs I’ll also be rigged and ready to drop on targets on the fish finder
Response: This is an awesome tell. STAY WITH THESE BIRDS as long as possible. Keep eye glued to the fish finder and be ready to drop on targets!
Lure Application: Topwater could be tough in this situation with aggressive bird behavior In this situation, I default to a heavy 6oz swimbait, A 6oz Slider, or a 4oz Fasting sinking jig for casting jigs I’ll also be rigged and ready to drop on targets on the fish finder
Response: Follow the birds Cruise a long in the same direction until they thin out When this happens, circle back to where you first saw them
tain a respectful distance, casting subsurface lures or those that can ments of baitfish trying to escape predators
es potential striped bass and albie activity in the area as both species Often the “tell” of cruising birds in groups suggests that either d now it’s over, or that the cruising birds expect something to cent sign but not the end all be all…
n: Suggests a feeding frenzy might have just ended, but fish could still ds are a stronger tell if they are reluctant to move out of your way and same area after you leave This is a stronger tell than “cruising birds ” ds happily pick up and take off and fly away it’s a much weaker signal
Active Feeding Frenzy: The holy grail both inshore and offshore! Clear indication of intense feeding activity directly below
Response: Approach cautiously so as not to disrupt the food-chain and cast to the edges of the frenzy
Lure Application: Fast-retrieving lures that can create disturbance or mimic the frantic movement of baitfish. Adapt lure type to situation. Terns would suggest small jigs and softbaits Gulls larger plugs etc
What it indicates: Birds hovering low over the water or dipping down to the surface without the dramatic dives seen when larger baitfish are present can indicate stripers (and the birds
eas where birds are showing interest but remain as stealthy as ot be as effective unless they're extremely subtle Instead, focus an get just below the surface activity.
s for a while or cruise around in the vicinity if in deeper water bait and predators on your fish finder
rio calls for versatile lures that can be worked at various depths ght entice a curious or lingering tune, like a slow-retrieved stick bottom.
It’s safe to assume that where there are whales feeding there are massive amounts of bait nearby When there’s massive amounts of bait nearby there’s obviously the potential for tuna, especially if they have been reported in the area.
• Feeding Frenzies: Whales engaging in hardcore feeding, especially surface feeding behaviors like breaching or bubble feeding, can indicate an abundance of baitfish that tuna may also be targeting, especially if they are known to be in the area.
• Whales + Bird Activity: Look for birds diving or hovering over areas where whales are feeding. This multi-species feeding behavior can be a strong indicator of a productive fishing area
• Whale Pods on the Move: Whales traveling in groups might be moving towards feeding grounds Tracking their direction could lead you to areas where tuna are also likely to be feeding.
Be on the lookout for whale surface activity, especially humpback whales, which are known for bubble feeding Bubble feeding whales concentrate baitfish or krill into tight balls, making them easy targets for tuna. Tuna often feed on the outskirts of these concentrated prey balls, capitalizing on the disoriented bait
• Fish the Periphery: When you spot bubble feeding activity, position your boat on the periphery of the action. Tuna are likely to attack the edges of the concentrated baitfish, so casting your lures or baits just outside the bubble net or disturbed water can be effective
• Use Appropriate Lures or Baits: Use your sonar to identify dense schools of baitfish below the surface, which may not be visible from above This can help you pinpoint where to cast your lines, even if the whales have moved on “Match the Hatch”being corralled by the whales If sand eels, a sand eel jig or heavily weighted softbait is a no brainer For larger baitfish like herring or mackerel, switch to bigger lures like large swimbaits or heavy sliders and blind cast the parameter.
• Respect Wildlife Regulations: Always maintain a safe and legal distance from whales and other marine life. Disrupting their natural behaviors not only is unethical but can also negatively impact your fishing success
Whales traveling in groups might be moving towards feeding grounds
Tracking their direction could lead you to areas where tuna are also likely to be feeding
Bird Activity: Look for birds diving or hovering over areas where whales are feeding This multi-species feeding behavior can be a strong indicator of a productive fishing area
Known for their spectacular feeding techniques, including the use of bubble nets to corral prey. The presence of humpback whales actively feeding can be a good sign that large schools of baitfish are in the area, which could also attract tuna.
Fin
These species feed on krill and small baitfish by swimming through dense concentrations with their mouths open If you notice these giants feeding in a particular area, it's worth investigating for potential tuna activity nearby.
A
Funky Water: Nervous water, boils, or even rip lines that may pen baitfish, making them vulnerable to tuna
Slicks: Fish-made slicks often mean something is getting eaten. Hopefully by tuna. If you are marking bait, see birds AND slicks, you’re three-quarters of the way there. Investigate the slicks for marks
Targets/Breaking
Tuna: If you see targets and nothing else, you’re in pretty good shape If you see targets and all the above, you’re in great shape! And breaking fish! Well, enough said
Water Temperature: Bluefin are associated with cooler and tend to be more bait driven as opposed to gulf stream-based Yellowfin, albacores, etc. where the temp breaks are the Holy Grail Pay close attention to temp breaks.
Bait: Do you see bait on the surface? On the finder? That’s a good sign Is bait clustered? If so, it might mean the school is in defense mode. Lots of bait “paving” the finder could also be a good sign but could also mean a lot of bait but no predators This is a good time to rethink the birds The birds are pretty good at knowing where the bait is Do you see birds loitering and bait? That’s a pretty good sign What do you know about the bait? What kind is it? If you don’t know a species, is it big or small? Packed? Scattered? Answers to any of these questions will guide you
RECAP
STEP 1: Reports/Historical Analysis
STEP 2: Environmental Analysis
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I don’t like coming home empty handed! You can’t always control the fishing but the good news is that each tuna trip is an opportunity for growth and learning The key to continuously improving your fishing skills lies in meticulously documenting and analyzing each trip. This process not only helps in fine-tuning your predictions for future outings but also transforms each trip into a valuable learning experience
Download Gotone!
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3 4
STEP 3: Plan & Execute
STEP 4: Observational Factors
STEP 5: De-Brief
*Analize & Log
Analyze and Compare: Before heading out, note your expectations based on weather, tide, moon phase, and other conditions Compare Predictions to Reality: After your trip, compare your initial predictions with what “actually happened” This can help you understand the impact of various factors on tuna behavior.
Log Actual Conditions: This includes air temperature, water temperature, wind direction and speed, sunlight conditions, tide times and stages, and any other relevant environmental factors
Fish Caught: Log each fish caught with details such as time, location, lure used, and method of capture. Photos can be invaluable here for verifying conditions and the fish's condition.
Identify Patterns: Over time, these records will help you identify patterns in tuna behavior relative to environmental conditions. This can refine your ability to predict prime fishing times and conditions
Use Technology: Leverage the Got One! App: By using a dedicated fishing log app like GotOne!, you can streamline the data collection process GotOne! can log most environmental conditions with GPS enabled photos, making it easier to correlate fishing success with specific conditions with built in reports. GotOne! was developed by a fellow tuna angler too!
Here’s a highly nerdy mind-map I created that decomposes what I like to call “a systematic approach” to finding fish In this playbook, I refer to to tuna tells and factors but this framework is how I approach finding all species of fish and the gear we design to “simplify” the process.
Tight Lines! -CAPT MIKE
If you have tuna fished before, especially where I fish a lot; East of Cape Cod, then you’ll know how many targets will show up on your unit. You’ve got whales, mackerel, sand eels, tuna, groundfish and thermocline Here’s a quick run-down to help break down what you are looking at and why it shows up that way on your screen.
Helps identify what you are looking at by indicating the target’s density
I use my factory setting for colors which basically delineate how dense an object being “returned” to the screen is. In my Garmin unit, Maroon is the densest color and light blue is the least dense Returns that are maroon will be targets like dense bait balls, large fish (pinged off the swim bladder), debris and of course bottom Harder rocky bottom is maroon and softer clay bottom has more orange and yellow hues
Approach: I use the factory setting
High Frequency for shallow water
Low Frequency for deep water
For starters, most units have the option for two frequencies, high and low Beam shaped like a cone Deeper you are, the wider your cone is, which is why you may see more marks down deep The frequency setting on a fish finder refers to the frequency of the sound waves emitted by the device Here are the key differences between high frequency and low frequency settings on fish finders Higher the frequency, the narrower the cone which also limits the effectiveness in deeper water.
Range: High frequency settings typically have a shorter range than low frequency settings. This is because high frequency waves are absorbed more quickly in water than low frequency waves If you are fishing in shallow water, a high frequency setting provides more detail on targets in a smaller area. In deeper water, a low frequency setting is more effective as it can cover a larger area.
Detail: High frequency settings provide more detail on small targets such as individual fish, as they can produce more detailed images of underwater structures. Low frequency settings, on the other hand, may not provide as much detail on small targets, but they can detect larger objects such as schools of fish or larger underwater structures
Clarity: High frequency settings tend to provide clearer images of targets, as they can distinguish between smaller objects and provide more detail on their shapes and movements Low frequency settings may provide less clarity but can still provide valuable information on the presence and location of larger objects.
Interference: High frequency settings may be more susceptible to interference from debris and bubbles in the water, which can create false readings or make it difficult to detect targets. Low frequency settings may be less affected by these types of interference.
Approach: if fishing in over 100’ of water, I typically use the split screen setting. I will set my High Frequency display to 50’ and my low frequency for the full span
Gain controls the sensitivity of the sonar system to incoming signals, while filter adjusts the type or range of signals that are displayed on the fish finder
While gain and filter are both settings that affect the display of sonar data on a fish finder, they have different functions
Gain: is a setting that controls the sensitivity of the sonar system to echoes or signals received from underwater Increasing the gain will amplify the strength of the returning sonar signals, making it easier to see weaker echoes such as those from smaller fish or baitfish. However, if the gain is set too high, it can also amplify background noise and clutter, resulting in a cluttered or confusing display Therefore, it's important to adjust the gain carefully to ensure the best balance between sensitivity and clarity of the sonar display.
Filter: on the other hand, is a setting that allows you to adjust the type or frequency range of the sonar signals that are displayed on the fish finder For example, some filters may be designed to reduce interference or noise from sources such as waves or other boats, while others may be used to enhance the display of specific types of targets, such as bottom structure or schools of fish. Filters can be adjusted in a variety of ways depending on the specific fish finder, such as by adjusting the frequency range, the strength of the filter, or the type of filter used
Congratulations!Youhavedoneeverythingright Youfollowedareport,adjustedfor conditionchangesandyoufoundyourownfish Theywerescattered,youtrolled yourHogyHarnessProTailsriggedonyourjiggingoutfitsandthestarboardroad foldedoverandthereelisscreaming!Nowwhat?
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Theanglerpicksuptherod,facesthefishandletsitrun
Thecrewclearsthedecks Theangleradviseshowmuchlineisonthereel
Manyanglerswillbestartledbyhowmuchlineiscomingoffthereelatthispoint It’sok.Letitrun.Letthefishtire.
Oncetheruniscomplete,idletowardthefishslowlywhiletheanglerputsmoreline onthereelwhilemaintainingpressure.Ifyoucanputthelinebackonwithoutidling, doit Thefishwilltiremorequickly Thegoalistogetasmuchlinebackonthereel withoutlettingthefishresttoomuchsothatitcanmakeanotherbigrun
Bereadyforthefishtoswimtowardyou Ifthishappens,reelasfastasyoucan Sometimesthischangeindirectioncanbesoaggressivethatthecaptainwillassist youbyre-positioningtheboat
Asthefightgetsclosertotheboat,itwillbecomemorevertical Ifyouareonacenter console,workthefishaft,preferablythecornerwherethecaptaincaneasilystep asidetoassist.Picktheupwindsideoftheboat,thiswillpreventdriftingoverthe fish
Tunawillmakebigcirclesthatwillgettighterasthefishgetsclosertotheboat.Let thefishrunalittlewhileitisswimmingawayfromtheboatandcollectlineasit circlesbackaround Nowisthetimetoputextrapressureonthefish Youwantextra pressurebutyoudon’twanttobreakoffthefish.
Asthefishgetsclose,theanglerisresponsibleforadvisinglinepositionrelativeto “anythingbad,”whichincludesthefishswimmingundertheboatorlinehitting trimtabs,swimplatforms,orengines It’sthecaptain’sresponsibilitytolisten, watchforhimselfandbereadytore-positiontheboat.Thereareoftenmanyboat adjustmentsneededneartheendgametoavoidtrouble Usually,thisonlyentails drivingacirclearoundthefishandkeepingthefishatthemostergonomicposition ontheaftquarteroftheboat
Asthefishgetsveryclosetotheboat,itwilllikelyfreakoutabitandwithaburstof adrenaline,itwilllikelyripmorelineout.
It’stimetogaffthefish.Atthispoint,thegaffisinwhicheverhandyouwanttogaff withandtheother(gloved)handisontheleadercontrollingthefish Theoutboard sideofthetuna’sheadisthetargetlocationtogaffthefish
Oncethefishisstuck,grabthegaffwithtwohands Ifthefishislarge,it’sagood ideatoputasecondgaffintothefishatthispoint.Don’thurtyourbackliftingthe fishin!!
Icarry2gaffs.Thefirstisa60″gaffthatismyprimarygaff.I knowalotofanglersprefera6’gaffsotheygetextendedreach butIprefertheshortergaffs Forstarters,Iprefergetting closertothefishtoensureanice,cleanheadshotsothatIdo notdamagethemeat Thesecondreason,andreallythemore importantoneasfarasIamconcerned,isthatitismucheasier todealwitharoundtheboatwhennotusingitandalsowhen landingthefish.Youhavelesspoleflyingaroundbattingat yourcrewwhenyouarelandingthefish Icarrythesecond48” gaffforhelpwithalargefishonceitisgaffed
IcarryaPoonHarpoonthatIhavehadsince2008 Ihavemine riggedwith100’of3/8”¼”nylonrope Iamnottargetingfish over300lbswithcastingandjigginggearsothatamountof ropeisOK.Iftargetinglargerfish,youmaywanttocarryas muchas300’ofline
VIDEO: HOW TO RIG A POON HARPOON
VIDEO: LIVE HARPOONING
SUSHI ANYONE?
Congratulations!Youhavesuccessfullycaughtandlandedabluefintuna Nowlets diveintooneofthemostimportantpartswhenitcomestoharvestingatuna Sinceyouhavealreadyproperly"fielddressed"andpackagedyourfish,you shouldbeleftwithafirm,easytofillettuna Weliketobreakdownthiswhole cleaningprocessintoafeweasyandsimplesteps:
FILLET TOP LOIN
Inmyopinionthetoploinistheprimomeatonatuna.Thisportionofthetunais whereyouwillfindthefirmestanddarkestmeat Ilikeashorter6"bladeforallmy initial"pilotcuts" Myfirstcutcomesinuptowardsthemeatiestpartofthetuna head Thereisalotofmeatheresodon'toverthinkyourcut Fromherefollowthe backboneallthewaydowntothetailsectionofthefish Endyourfilletafewinches upfromthetail Nowyoucanvirtuallysplityourfishinhalfbymakingacutdirectly ontopofthebackbone Nowit'sjustamatterofjoiningyourtwocutsuntilthetop loinjustfallsoffthefish.
FILLET BOTTOM LOIN & TORO
Nowit'stimeforthebottomloin.Againwestartwithourshortknifetocreateour "pilotcuts" Ourfirstcuthereisoutliningthebottomofthefish Thenanincision behindthepecfinoutliningthebellymeatorinJapanese,the"toro" Thisafatty cutoftunathatisextremelysoughtafter NextIbreakoutmylargerknifeand finishoffmycutsbygoingallthewaytotheribline.Lastly,Iliketoseparatethe fattybellymeatfromtheleanerbottomloinmeat Thatwaythereisnoconfusion onwhichcutoffishIamhandling
VIDEO: HOW TO FILLET A BLUEFIN TUNA 1 3 2
Iliketotrimawayanydarkmeatleftonmyfillets Thisdarkermeatwilloftengive offa"fishy"tastesoitsbesttojusttrimaway Removingthedarkmeatalsohelps withpreservingthequalityofthefish Ithenparticiontheloinintosteaks,usually into5"widepiecesforeasystorage.Lastly,Islidemylongerknifebetweenthe meatandtheskinforacompletelyskinlessfilletoftuna Nowit'stimetopackage upandenjoy!
Thisisdebatablythemostimportantpartofthiswholeprocess! Notunacleaningiscompletewithoutafinelycuratedbeertocapoffa successfuldayoffshore OneofCapt Mike'sgo-to"tunabeers"isa CiscoBrewersWhaleTail
RazorSharpStainlessBlades–AllnewHogyfishingfillet knivesutilizepremium,razor-sharpG4116German Stainless-Steelbladeswithabeautifulblackfinish Hogy filletkniveswillmaintaintheiredgelongerinbothfresh andsaltwaterapplicationsandmakethejobofcutting baits,filletingfishofallsizes,andsteakinglargegamefish easierthaneverbefore. Non-SlipSuperPolymerGrip-Weusethemost comfortableandslip-resistant,superpolymergripsfor yoursafetyandcomfort Thesehandlesfeelgreatinyour handandensurethatyoualwayshaveasolidgriponyour filletknife Thesehandlesalsocleanupeasilyandstay lookinggoodlonger
6" FILLET KNIFE: PILOT CUTS, TRIMMING
8" FILLET KNIFE: SKINNING LOINS
9" FILLET KNIFE: BROAD CUTS
Backbone
Rib cage
KEEP IT FRESH!
Greatjob!Youexecutedeverythingperfectlyandhavenowsuccessfullyfound, caught,andlandedabluefintuna Thehardworkisdoneandnowit'stimeto simplydressandprepyourfishtokeepthemeatasfreshaspossible.Followour simpleTunaFieldDressingGuidetomakethiswholeprocessassimpleandquick aspossiblesoyoucangetbacktofishing!
Onceyourfishhasbeensuccessfullygaffedandlanded,it'stimetobleeditto preservethequalityofthemeat Thiscanbedoneacoupledifferentways
Method1:Thisfirstmethodworksbestonfishthatcaneasilybetakenaboard yourvessel.Youwanttomakesureyourfishhasbeendispatchedbeforemaking yourinitialcuts Thesefishareextremelypowerfulandyoudon'twanttobe handlingafloppingfishwithasharpknife Asimplebrain-spikewilldispatch yourfishquicklyandhumanely Onceyourfishisnolongeralive,makeanincision rightonthechin thereisamajorarteryrighthereandseizingitfirstwillexpenda lotoftheinitialblood Next,anincisiononthefisheslateralline,about5"fromits pectoralfinwillyieldanothercutinamajorartery Yourlastcutwillbemade inlinewithyourfirstlaterallinecut,thistimeattheendofthefishtowardsthe tail Atthispointyoushouldbeseeingalotofbloodbeingremovedfromyourfish
TIP: Ifyourboatcomesriggedwithasaltwaterwash-downhose,insertthe nozzleintothemouthofthefish Thissteadystreamofsaltwaterwillhelpflush outmorebloodatquickerrate
Method2:Thismethodismostlycateredtowardscommercialanglerstargeting fishover72" Assumingyouoptedtoharpoonandtailgaffyourfish,youmay wanttogoaboutbleedingthemwhiletheyarestillinthewater Withatailrope secured,andeitheraswimhookorgaffsecuredinthefishesmouth,putyourboat inidletostartmovingwaterthroughyourfish Followthesameincisionslistedin Method1,andinsteadofawash-downhoseyouareutilizingtheforwardmotion ofyourboattoflushwaterthroughoutthefishesbody,thereforeremovingallthe blood
Onceyourfishhasbeensuccessfullydispatchedandbled,you'regoingtowantto removethegillsandentrailstoreducetheoverallbodytemperatureofthefish Thisgreatlyimprovesthequalityofthemeat Usingasharpknife,makeacut about4"wideintheanusofthefish Reachinginsidethisincisionwithtwofingers youwillfeela"cordlikeentrail".Thisissimplyaconnectionpointfortherestof theintestines Simplycutthiscordtoallowyourselftopullouttheentrailsinone fluidstep Liftingthegillplate,cutbothendsofthegillstoremovethemoneata time.Thismaytakesomemaneuveringandadditionalcuts,butjustkeepinmind youwanttoberemovingallofthegills Nowthatthegillsareremovedsimply reachdownthecavityofthefishandpulloutalloftheinsides Becarefultonot punctureanyoftheentrails Allofthese"scraps"canbetossedoverboardandfed tothecrabs.Youhavenowsuccesfullydressedyourfish!
TIP:Itmaybeworthwhiletotakealookatthestomachcontentsofyourfish This willgiveyouanideaofwhattheprimaryforageofyourfishwas.Valuable knowledgeforanyangler!
Assumingyouintendedtoharvestatunaandbroughtplentyofice,thefinalstep inthiswholeprocessistoicedownandstoreyourfish Iliketostuffthecavityof myfishwithasmanybagsasoficeIcanfit Thishelpswithensuringanevenly distributedicingprocess.Ithenplacemyfishinmyicedownedhatchandsealit up!
TIP:Addafewinchesoffreshsaltwatertoyourbox
WARNING: CONTAINS SCENES VIEWERS MAY FIND DISTURBING.
Thislowersthetemperature oftheboxgreatly
Lateral line incision
Chin incision
Saltwater hose
Gill removel
Anus fin incision
The only real difference between tuna jigging and casting lures, and striper casting and jigging lures is the size of the outfits, the heaviness of the leaders and the strength of the terminal connections. The lures themselves are not all that different in size, which means that by upgrading your terminal connections for tuna, you can use the same gear
You have two choices with braid: hollow core and traditional solid style For my reels 18000 and above, I use hollow core and since braid is very expensive and will last multiple seasons, I am pretty consistent with my sizing 100lb on my 18000 and 130lb on my 20000 sized reel. I like hollow core because you can have a spliced loop that is strong and smooth but also has minimal drag going through the guides while casting or if under strain with a big fish The loop will allow you to simply and quickly change pre-made wind-on leaders Your local shop can put a braid in your line for you if you don’t know how or have the time. If you break off your loop while fishing, you can create a new loop with a Bimini hitch or the faster and easier Spider hitch, which isn’t quite as strong. (TIP: I reverse the line on a spool after a season Your shop can do this for you)
Some anglers use mono leaders for casting and jigging and in addition to the huge cost savings, there are some advantages. 1) Mono is softer and suppler. That means it will take less memory set than fluorocarbon and that is not worth it as heavy fluorocarbon leader can sometimes act like a slinky on your reel 2) Mono has some stretch, given its shockabsorbing characteristics and connections hold better when there’s a lot of pressure at boat side 3) It crimps better than fluorocarbon leader It’s more forgiving THAT BEING SAID, I personally use fluorocarbon leader 100% of the time for the simple reason that it is less visible underwater Tuna have such keen eyesight and I believe that mono over flouro would trade in a number of those single fish days to skunky days I’ll live with the headaches. TIP: Flouro gets dirty. Keep alcohol wipes and wipe them throughout the day. I also replace my fluorocarbon leaders after every trip, even on fishless days A simple teeny, impossible-to-see-by-the-naked-eye, nick in the line will hold light and lose its stealth. There are a number of knots you can use to tie leader directly to braid Some of them are fascinating and ultra-slick through the guides, giving you extra casting distance, but I prefer the ease and convenience of a loop-to-loop connection of a wind-on leader. I figure I will have more fishing time if I can put a new leader on in a quarter of the time
With tuna, the lighter the fluorocarbon, the more likely you will be to get bit. Unfortunately, practicality often gets in the way of the fun and you have to live with fewer bites but more landed For Bluefin likely to be over 100lbs, I use 100lb leader for casting and 130lb leader for jigging. For smaller, school sized fish, my default is 80lb but I carry 60lb for problematic days when the fish are being super picky The longer the leader, the better as tuna do not like seeing the braid to flouro connection. But it is difficult to cast, therefore I make casting leaders much shorter My default casting leader is 12’ whereas my jigging leader is 30’ or 40’, especially on conventional reels You also need extra leader for jigging because the presentation is entirely different. There is far more line in the water in contrast to the water around it With a cast leader, only a small percentage of the line might be visible on the surface
My general rule of thumb is that I tie direct with a loop knot at 60lb test and below, and crimp the line above. 80lb can really go both ways and I will crimp it if I feel I need the chafing gear 100lb and above is crimped all the way In most cases, I will crimp with ½” chafe gear to a 220lb swivel and attach a similarly sized split ring to the swivel This is the best way as the swivel will minimize torque on the connection during a battle. The split ring gives added abrasion resistance and easy lure changes
Split Rings: I’m always swapping out plugs So having a split ring connected to by crane swivel speeds this process up. Also handy for swapping out hooks if the split ring gets tired. I keep a Hogy Split Ring Kit on Hand Crane Swivel: Having a crane swivel on the business of my wind on leader infront of my split ring is SOP for team Hogy. 120lb test is sufficient. Chafe Gear: A teen piece goes a long way “Just enough” to form the smallest loop possible to the crane swivel Wind On Leaders: I carry 12’ casting lengths and 25’ Jigging lengths 80, 100 and 130lb in each length.
Everything comes down to a solid connection when target trophy tuna Here's how to rig your own bullet proof leader to lure connections.
"Paint" yourcrimp blackwithasharpie.
.5"BlackChafeLoop
130#FluoroLeader
1.3mmAluminumCrimp
For rigging with light leaders 80# and less.
220#CraneSwivel
220#1.4SplitRing
The best rigging connection on heavy leaders 80# and up
220#CraneSwivel
220#1.4SplitRing
80#Fluoro + PalomarKnot
Tackling the largest of offshore gamefish requires a keen eye to details and perfection in rigging technique Hogy's full lineup of offshore terminal rigging allows you to quickly build or repair your offshore presentations
1.Reduce crimp visibility by coloring with a black sharpie marker
2. Eliminate unnecessary break offs by leaving a 1/16" flange along crimp edges when crimping
3 Measure line diameter to crimp size Improper pairing of line to crimp size will greatly reduce strength and reliability
4. Use the proper style chafe gear for connections. Black Chafe for leader loops Stainless Chafe for hook connections.
Hogy Jig Biki Rig 5/0 or 7/0, Diesel Mack Rig 3/0: Cod can be so keyed in on small bait that they often will only hit the teasers The 3/0 + hooks are big and strong enough for cod and will penetrate their tough mouths
Tactical Jig: Sand Eel Jig or Flutter Pitch under 200’ of water I recommend the 6 and 8.5oz versions. In water over 200-f with a strong current, I usually start wit 12oz jig and move up to a 16oz jig in hea current The Hogy Sand Eel jig gets dow bottom quickly due to its long slender p and is fished fast If Cod or Haddock are a bigger presentation, the alternative is the Hogy Flutter Pitch Jig which will closely resemble a herring or similarly sized baitfish
Strategy: I look for two things when searching for cod; a plateau, such as ledges, that you can spot on a chart or a live bottom that looks “furry” on the fish finder I start by locating a circular, topographical elevation or recess In stating with the topography, I’ll try the shallowest point first and drift over the deep side. Once I’m in the area of where I think will be a good place to drop, I’ll invest some time into looking for a live bottom, which shows up as an alternate color. From my understanding, a live bottom consists of sponges, growths, crabs,, etc. In other words, a habitat in a big, open ocean that is capable of holding a flourishing food chain
Ideally, you might mark a few fish But m often than not, you don’t. At least I don anyway I’ll play around with drops if th area looks really good. Sometimes, on th first drop, I’ll pick up a few dogfish righ away If this happens, I’ll make a move the next spot It’s amazing to me how s of a move it can take to completely chan fishing Where I am fishing, East of Chatham on Cape Cod, there are so many topographical changes that you’ll have plenty of spots to
Tip: Pay close attention to your bottom machine when looking for live bottom areas. They often show up as "blue fuzz" right along the bottom
Tip: Although a speed jigging retrieve may be effective for tuna fishing, it can actually be problematic when ground fishing When there is an abundant amount of fish on the bottom, speed jigging will cause a lot of unnecessary snagging of by catch. Slow your retrieve down and opt for a slower “twitch jigging” style retrieve to maximize fair catches
Harness Protail Paddle
Harness Jig
Charter
Grade Slider
XL Tuna Popper
Jig-Biki Rigs
Sand Eel Jig
Protail Paddle
XL Tuna Popper: Rigged with tuna grade hardware Hogy tuna poppers are a dream to cast on heavy duty offshore setups and are perfectly tuned to give off the ideal pop and stutter action Featuring multiple rattling chambers, these poppers are ideal for blind casting and calling up fish in deeper water
XL Tuna Dog Walker
Primary Technique: Topwater Casting Speed: Medium + Fast Style: Attractor with visibility and noise.
Charter Grade Sliders: Crafted for ease of casting with heavy gear, each Slider is thoughtfully w a consistent descent, equipped with tuna They typically swim 2 to 3 feet below the standard conditions. Hogy Charter Grad through-wire construction specifically t the strength and challenges of large tun imitation of offshore baitfish, these Slid easy to retrieve This combination of effe simplicity has made them a favorite stic anglers, especially those targeting big ga ocean.
Primary Technique: Sub Surface Casting Medium + Fast Style: Imitator of large baitfish
Tuna Grade
Epoxy Jig
Harness Protail Eel
XL Tuna Dogwalker: Mirroring the design of their inshore counterparts, these specialized Dog Walkers are equipped with hardware specifically crafted for tuna fishing While the walk-the-dog style plugs are not commonly used for tuna, they are just as effective for this species as they are for striped bass The plug's leisurely, side-to-side movement allows anglers to fish it slowly on the surface, making it an excellent mimic of larger oceanic baitfish such as bunker and mackerel This unique action makes the Tuna Grade Dogwalker a highly effective lure for enticing tuna, offering a different approach that can be particularly successful in scenarios where traditional methods may fall short mary ed: + M lity nois
Hogy Pro Tail Paddle: This lure excels with its compact size for a subtler presentation, yet it is available in sizes up for casting with heavy gear. This makes it incredibly ve suitable for both light and heavy tackle situations Its ro construction is designed to withstand the demands of targeting large tuna, with a hook that has been rigorou tested to 150lbs and proven effective for landing tuna exceeding 180lbs. The well-designed paddle tail, a key f ensures durability and effectiveness under challenging conditions. For optimal performance, use a steady med fast retrieve at a 45-degree rod angle To trigger aggres strikes, try speeding up your retrieve, pausing for 2 to 3 seconds, then resuming at a medium pace, a technique exploits the tuna's instinctual behaviors The Hogy Pro Paddle allows for versatile top sub surface presentation deep-water “drops” on long pauses.
Primary Technique: Casting Speed: Slow + Medium Sty Imitator
Harness Pro tail Eel: These are almost identical in design to the Harness Pro Tail Paddle, except they feature a straight eel tail instead of the paddle The eel tail offers a much more natural presentation, as it does not disperse as much water as a paddle tail. That being said, this bait still has some great action Fished on a cast and drop retrieve, this bait is the ultimate sand eel imitation and can be fished a magnitude of different ways.
Primary Technique: Heavy Duty Jigging Speed: Slow + Medium Style: Imitator
Harness Jigs: The Harness Jig is carefully balanced to ensure a natural drop and retrieve and features our custom 500lb test stainless steel harness that connects the 6X strong VMC Barbarian Live Bait Hook to the built in ball bearing swivel in the nose In addition to the 6X strong connection, the harness is extends the hook back into the bait just enough to minimize counter productive tail snags and ensure positive hook ups Designed to interface with the Harness Speed Tail that features a unique rigging channel for fast and easy rigging These baits are deadly when jigged slow and twitchy on the bottom, or even dead sticked out of the rod holder. Not to mention they can also be cast and retrieved just like any other plug
Primary Technique: Offshore Casting + Jigging Speed: Slow + Medium Style: Imitator
Sand Eel Jig: Assist hook rigged sand eel jigs are a perfect imitation of large oceanic sand eels that we often find while tuna fishing offshore. Coming in weights up to 16oz, these jigs are ideal for dropping in deep water and heavy current Fish these jigs slow and twitchy, fast like a knife jig, and everything in between. The olive color pattern is ideal for matching the hatch, and the pink and green are perfect attractor colors Also a great jig for deepwater cod fishing
Primary Technique: Offshore Jigging Speed: Slow + Medium + Fast Style: Imitator
Harness Pro Tail Paddle: This is the big b h d l ail Paddles! We this gigantic is carefully p and retrieve est stainless 4X strong built-in ball dition to the ess is extended enough to l snags and or matching
Tuna Epoxy Jig: We all know and love the Epoxy Jig lure, but this tuna grade version takes our beloved inshore jig to offshore heights! This is hands down the ultimate sand eel imitation when tuna fishing If you have ever fished for False Albacore with regular size Epoxy Jigs, then take everything you know and replicate it for casting for tuna Whether it's fast and skippy on the surface, low and slow subsurface, and everything in between, casting for tuna with this jig is just “big albie fishing”!
Primary Technique: Offshore Casting + Jigging Speed: Slow + Medium + Fast Style: Imitator
"Matching the hatch" is a term borrowed from the world fly-fishing , emphasizing the importance of selecting fishing lures that closely imitate the natural prey of target species, in this case, tuna. This strategy is critical for successful tuna fishing, as it involves choosing lures that replicate the size, profile, and color of the baitfish or other prey items that tuna are actively feeding on in their natural environment. The rationale behind this approach is based on the predatory instincts and feeding behaviors of tuna, which are highly selective and adapted to recognize specific characteristics of their prey By presenting a lure that mirrors the appearance and movement of the natural food source, anglers can significantly increase their chances of attracting and hooking up. The precision in matching the lure to the hatch is key, as even slight deviations in size, profile, or color can be enough to deter a tuna from biting This attention to detail ensures that the lure is perceived as a genuine bait fish, leveraging the tuna's instinctual feeding patterns for a more effective fishing approach
Bigschoolsofherringaretheultimatescore Tuna gonutsforherringandthesurfacecanlook whitewashedwhenthefeedison Notonlyare herringgreatbecausetheydrivetunacrazy,but theyoftencallinlotsofbirdsto,makingiteasier tospotthefoodchain Bone,blue,blackandsilver arego-tocolors.IfBluefinarebustingonherring, lures l ti i ’t l th t iti l Y ill mark
Mackerelarealsoveryimportantforagefortuna Thechallengewithmackerelisthattheytendtobe moreskittishandmovequickly Unlikehugefeeds withsandeelsandherring,mackerelfeedstendto beshorterlivedandfarmorescattered,makingit hardtoapproachbreakingfish Blacksilverand greensilv h l f i i ingherring
Tunakeyedinonbutterfishcanbeveryfinicky, particularlyiffeedingonjuvenilebutterfish Feedsare supershort,oftenonlyforahandfulofseconds Often tunawillscatterandisolatesinglebutterfishonthe surfacemakingitextremelydifficulttostagethese fish TheRunN’Gunapproachiskeyhere
TOP COLORS
1stChoice:Blue2ndChoice:Bone LURE SELECTION HARNESSPROTAIL
TOP COLORS LURE SELECTION
TOP COLORS
1stChoice:Bone2ndChoice:Blue LURE SELECTION
Whatfishdoesn’tlovesandeels?Onewaytotelliftherearea lotofsandeelsintheareaitthroughalotofwhalebubbles, whichindicatefeeding Tunawillfeedonsandeelsatalllevels inthewatercolumn Whentunaarekeyedinonsandeels,they willmostoftendartthroughbaitballs,insortofabucketfeedingformat
TOP COLORS
1stChoice:Olive2ndChoice:Bone LURE SELECTION
TOP COLORS
1stChoice:Purple2ndChoice:Silver LURE SELECTION
Similartomackerel,halfbeaksare fastmovingandfeedsareoften sporadicbuttuna’sfeedsonhalf beakscanlastlongerthanmackerel Halfbeaksareeasytospotastheyare highjumpersandtendtojumpin unison Theykeytochasingtuna keyedinonhalfbeaksistogetahead ofthemifyoucan Thefeedscan oftenbeshortlived,butwhentheygo down,theyoftencomebackup quickly Thoughoftendifficultto decipher,understandingthe directiontheyareheadingisthe nameofthegame
Tunakeyedinonsquidcanbeas finickyastunawhentheyarekeyedin onsmallbutterfish,thetechniques remainthesameastargetingBluefin keyedinonbutterfish,butyourlure andcolorselectionwillneedtobe adjustedalittle Thenameofthegame istobereadytochargeuponaquick fe
TOP COLORS
1stChoice:Pink 2ndChoice:Bone LURE SELECTION POGIES PROTAILPADDLE
Tunakeyedinonpogiescanpresenta uniquesituation Oftenthepogieswill beschooledupintotightpodsandthe tunawillcrashthroughthem Inthis case,workingalargerpaddletailon edgesofbaitpodswillbethekeyto gettingbit
TOP COLORS
1stChoice:Olive2ndChoice:Bone LURE SELECTION HARNESSPROTAIL
Flexi-Bar Squid
Bars
Harness Jigs {6-80z}
Hogy 18" Pocket Splash Bar for Tuna Trolling:
Bird Bars
Hybrid Conventional Rod
Charter Grade Swimming Plug
The Hogy 18" Pocket Splash Bar is an essential addition to any light tackle tuna fishing arse
Despite its compact width, the inclusion of nine 9” squids significantly enhances the appearance of a bait ball, providing both size and visual appeal Its manageable size is perfe suited for light tackle and traditional fishing gear, ensuring ease of use for anglers of all lev
The bird, constructed from ultra-lightweight yet incredibly durable foam, coupled with a titanium bar, ensures unmatched strength and longevity Its oversized wings, crafted from semi-rigid plastic, are designed to spray water up to 24 inches, minimizing breakage on im with the deck This bar, favored for its lightweight design and dynamic splashing action, st out as a top choice for light tackle tuna trolling. Featuring UV-infused squid bodies for maximum attraction and stainless spring steel bars for resilience, its optimized for offshor trolling at speeds of four to twelve knots A standout selection for pursuing school Bluefin and Yellowfin tuna across the Northeast Coast and Canyons, its light tackle compatibility sets a new standard for spreader bar design
The 40” Flexi Bird Bar redefines the concept of simulating a large bait ball with its wider frame and smaller 6” squids, perfect for mimicking dense groups of small baitfish. Its innovative design incorporates a lightweight, spring stainless steel bar that introduces flexibility and occasional pulses. These spontaneous movements create a lifelike action that can provoke reaction strikes from trailing tuna Despite its impressive size, the Flexi Bird Bar remains lightweight, allowing it to be utilized with 20 class fishing outfits without compromising the ability to land sizable catches. This unique combination of size, flexibility, and lightweight des makes it an effective tool for anglers targeting tuna, offering a blend of practicality and efficie in a larger spreader bar format.
The Classic Bird Bar from Hogy epitomizes traditional excellence in tuna trolling. Designed for straight-line running, this model is versatile enough to be fished directly from the rod holder or deployed on outriggers, offering anglers flexibility in their setup. Its straightforward design ensures reliability and effectiveness, making it a staple in any serious tuna angler's spread The Classic Bird Bar is built to seamlessly integrate into your trolling pattern, providing an enticing simulation of baitfish that appeals to a wide range of tuna species. Its durability and ease of use make it an indispensable tool for those looking to maximize their catch with a proven, no-fuss solution.
Innovatively designed, the Directional Bird Bar introduces a unique element to tuna trolling with its swimming plate located on the underside of the bird This ingenious addition is engineered to direct the swimming action away from the boat, eliminating the need for outriggers to spread the bird bars in the wake The Directional Bird Bar autonomously swims, creating a more natural and dispersed trolling pattern that effectively mimics a school of baitfish This self-steering capability not only simplifies setup but also enhances the lure's effectiveness by offering a more lifelike presentation Ideal for anglers seeking to streamline their gear without compromising on the spread's expansiveness or the lure's attractant capabilities, the Directional Bird Bar is a gamechanger in offshore trolling technology
Engineered specifically for use with outriggers, the Hogy Classic Bars bring an unparalleled level of sophistication and effectiveness to tuna trolling These spreader bars are celebrated for their lightweight construction and the pulsating action that closely mimics the natural movements of baitfish, thanks to the advanced design featuring UV-infused squid bodies. The incorporation of stainless spring steel bars ensures both the durability and flexibility needed for the demanding conditions of offshore trolling.
Tailored for deployment at speeds between four to twelve knots, the Hogy Classic Bars are uniquely suited for lighter tackle setups, allowing anglers to enjoy the benefits of a high-action spread without the need for heavy titanium rigs This makes them particularly advantageous for targeting both school-sized Bluefin and Yellowfin tuna across the Northeast Coast and Canyons, providing an enticing presentation that is hard for tuna to resist The design of the Hogy Classic Bars for outriggers maximizes the spread and visibility of your baitfish imitation, creating a more enticing and effective trolling setup. Whether you're a seasoned angler or new to tuna fishing, these bars offer a reliable, efficient way to increase your catch rate, making them a must-have in your offshore trolling arsenal
The Hogy Charter Grade Deep Dive Swimming Plugs are designed with a straightforward approach, featuring simple color patterns and a robust construction similar to our tuna p specifications These plugs are suitable for targeting a variety of game fish on stand-up g with the 7” Offshore version being capable of sustaining performance at speeds up to 12 knots
Regarding their diving capabilities, extensive testing has shown that factors such as the c boat speed, and how much line is out can influence the depth reached. Despite these varia it's been consistently observed that the lure can dive to depths of over 20 feet An importa feature of these plugs is the inclusion of 4x 6/0 VMC inline hooks, chosen for their streng reliability These hooks are designed to improve catch rates and withstand the demands o targeting larger gamefish
Mesh Crate System
Tuna De-Hooker
Roll Up Jig Sleeves
Poon Harpoon
Mesh Crate System: We wanted to create a storage system that truly was saltwater friendly We all know how corrosive saltwater water is towards fishing gear and oftentimes other storage bags and containers would lock in saltwater making for a big rusty mess That’s where our Mesh Crate System comes into play. Designed for saltwater use, this full washable storage system makes the organization of fishing tackle a breeze
Holds Up To 4 Plano 3600 Series Boxes
Vinyl Pockets For Leader Spool
Mesh Storage Pouches for Sunscreen, Tools, Etc Heavy-Duty Carry Straps
Open Top Design For Easy Tackle Access Accessories Not Included.
Roll Up Jig Sleeves: Heavy jigs can always be a hassle to store properly. They also take up a fair amount of space That’s why we created these simple heavy duty jig bags Built tough from heavy-duty marine grade mesh & vinyl Jigs will store securely with full length Velcro strapping. Simply rinse your jig sleeve at the end of a trip and hang to dry in a well ventilated area
Tuna De-Hooker: Using a de-hooker tool for tuna is a game-changer for both the fish and th angler. For the tuna, the de-hooker significantly reduces the risk of injury by allowing for a m controlled and less invasive method of hook removal By using a de-hooker, anglers can ensu the tuna is released in the best possible condition, maximizing its chances of survival. For the angler, this tool not only simplifies the de-hooking process but also minimizes the risk of get accidentally hooked or injured during the process That’s why we came up with a simple, port and easy to use Hogy Tuna De- Hooker.
Filet Knives: All anglers need a reliable knife to filet their catches from a long day on the water. That’s why we created our Hogy Filet Knives! Each kit comes with 3 knives - 6” Groundfish, 8” Gamfish, & 9” Tuna blade for all your fish cutting needs.
Poon Harpoon: Using a harpoon to land a tuna is an age-old technique that, at first glance, m seem daunting to many anglers. The imagery of wielding a long spear-like tool while on a ro boat might appear challenging However, with a bit of practice and understanding, mastering harpoon becomes surprisingly straightforward
For those willing to invest the time to learn, harpoon can prove to be an invaluable tool in their arsenal. We created the Poon Harpoon for walks of anglers to wield when targeting large fish
Cape Cod is a magical place to be an angler Serving as the nexus between the Southernmost reach of cool crisp Labrador Current and the Northernmost reach of The Gulfstream, the Cape hosts cold water groundfish like cod, halibut and haddock AND just about every highly migratory species worth catching like tuna, stripers, albies and more. Waters aside, Cape Cod also boasts just about every fishing terrain imaginable including crystal clear flats, boulders rips and wide open blue water. Pretty much every fishery in the world can be replicated here on Cape Cod in some way.
You are holding in your hand my personal playbook for tuna that I have developed over the years on the water. Like most other species here Cape Cod, tuna behave similarly all over the world. I deeply believe that the techniques you’ll learn here can be used anywhere around the world.
Thank You for taking the time to check my playbook ou k how you did!
POWERED BY
Salty Cape was established in 2012 as a spin off of Hogy Lure Co to serve as a blog for all things fishing on Cape Cod, helping anglers shorten the learning curve to the dozens of micro seasons here from groundfish to tuna We also like to think there’s a “Cape” in all places "salty" which is why we feel so lucky that we can produce instructional videos for locals here and anglers abroad alike.
Hogy Lure Co was founded by Capt. Mike Hogan in 2006. Originally based in Capt. Mike’s Basement as a side hustle, Hogy has since evolved into an international saltwater fishing company based around the mission to “simplify fishing” by developing “charter grade” products focused on catching fish, rather than fishermen! We fish hard Have fun and especially enjoy helping people have a highly productive day playing “hooky”!
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