Historic Scotland, Spring 2013

Page 23

landscapes

Threave Castle

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ituated alongside the lush banks of the River Dee, Threave is a unique island castle that juts imposingly into an otherwise gentle rolling skyline. Its excellent defensive position means that, even today, this mighty castle is an adventure to get to. Built for Sir Archibald Douglas in about 1369, Threave comprised a five-storey tower house surrounded by a large complex of buildings, which would have

Getting there 3 miles west of Castle Douglas on the A75

formed a secure village covering most of the island. Breaching the stronghold is now a much simpler affair than it would have been in the 14th century. Ring the bell by the jetty and the custodian will safely ferry you across to the island in a small boat. Once inside, take time to admire the impressive scale of the fortifications that overlook miles of pleasant, low-lying farmland and pasture. The tower you see today is the product of minor

modifications in the 18th century to convert the site into a prison during the Napoleonic Wars. Like his castle, Archibald was no understated character. His natural father, ‘the Good Sir James’ of Douglas, had been a close ally of Robert I (the Bruce) during the Wars of Independence with England. Archibald continued the fight, earning for himself the intimidating title for which he is best remembered – ‘the Grim’. By the time of his death in 1400, Archibald was the most powerful magnate in southern Scotland. When James II took steps to overthrow the Black Douglases in 1455, it was Threave that staged the final act in the drama. After a two-month siege, the castle was annexed to the crown, marooning it thereafter on the relative margins of Scotland’s history. As the first great castle to be taken into state care, Threave is an awe-inspiring sight well worth pushing the boat out for.

Dirleton Castle

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n elegant fortress in East Lothian, Dirleton Castle has sat on its rocky perch since the 13th century. For the first 400 years of its existence it served as the attractive residence of three noble families – the de Vauxs, Haliburtons and Ruthvens – who ruled over the rich agricultural lands encompassing the barony of Gullane and Dirleton. As much a place for gracious living as it was for defence, each family is ref lected in the fanciful patchwork of styles you can see in the surviving ruin, and it’s quite a challenge to tour the castle in any chronological sense. Looking over its distinctive warm yellow sandstone you’ll see the large sections that are courtesy of John de Vaux – an Anglo-Norman knight, who

built the multi-towered keep in the mid 1200s. The robust gatehouse was an improvement following the First War of Independence with England, when the battered remains of Dirleton passed to the Haliburtons. An even more intimidating feature added by them was the dank and gloomy pit prison. The last keepers of Dirleton were the Ruthven family, who acquired the castle in 1510 and brought a touch of Renaissance f lair to its stormy medieval roots. Immediately striking when visiting are the enchanting gardens that now embrace the battlements. To the west, the reconstructed gardens perfectly capture the refined formal planting of the Victorian period, while the beautiful north end is

Getting there In Dirleton village 3 miles west of North Berwick

a riotous Arts and Crafts f loral palette. Here, you will also find the celebrated fragrant herbaceous border, especially noteworthy as it has wound its way into the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s longest. Dirleton Castle may no longer be a family residence but it has blossomed once more with an immaculately designed landscape alongside the legacy of an impressive aristocratic seat. historic scotland | Spring 2013 | 21


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