32 FOOD
CREATE YOUR OWN
Farm fresh feasts
Greenleaf preps for opening in Milford By Matt Ingersoll
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mingersoll@hippopress.com
Over 30 Proven Wine Recipes Fresh Commercial-Grade Ingredients Chefs Keith Sarasin and Chris Viaud of The Professional Brewing Equipment Farmers Dinner cast a wide net across New Hampshire during their search for a space to No experience necessary! 4.69”wide x 2.6” high Guaranteed results!HIPPO Horizontal 1/8 page house a new farm-to-table restaurant. But it VISIT US AT INCREDIBREW.COM for our upcoming brewing events and hours
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was when they came across the site of an old 19th-century bank in Milford that they realized a unique opportunity — to create a space that would preserve and honor the history of the building while utilizing products directly sourced from farms both right in town and beyond. Greenleaf, the name of their restaurant that is on track to open in the coming weeks, sounds like a nod to what Sarasin and Viaud are all about — creating a rotating menu of farm-fresh ingredients with a particular focus on items in their growing seasons. But according to Sarasin, the restaurant is actually named after an individual. “The history of this building dates back to 1865, when it was the Souhegan Valley National Bank. They were actually printing money here at the time for the United States, which is an incredible thing to walk into,” Sarasin said. “A gentleman by the name of Luther Greenleaf was the primary architect who did the first renovation of this building in 1907. We have the original blueprints from him that were handdrawn that we’ll be displaying.” The two found the building last September and have spent the last several months on renovations. Greenleaf will seat about 70, including six in a private area in the fully restored vault from the original bank, as well as 12 at the bar and six at a chef’s table, offering an up-close and personal experience with the chefs in an open kitchen. An additional 16 seats will be available in a private function room at the back of the building. Viaud said they have continued relationships with several farms that have participated in The Farmers Dinner over the years, and have also formed new ones with purveyors right in town. “We’re working closely with the farms to be able to help them promote the product that is coming out, and also be able to refresh and revamp our menus as much as possible,” Viaud said. He and Sarasin have already started experimenting with some opening menu items, like a cast iron roasted New York strip with potato gratin, Swiss chard and King Trumpet mushrooms sourced from Dunk’s Mushrooms in Danville; and a chicken dish with a creamy parsnip puree and caramelized spring onion bulbs. Fresh baked artisan-style bread will be made in house too. Even some items grown micro-seasonally will make their way onto Greenleaf’s menu through some kind of dish for short periods of time, Sarasin said.
Cast iron roasted NY strip with potato gratin, Swiss chard and King Trumpet mushrooms. Courtesy photo.
“You obviously have your four seasons, but when we talk about microseasons, it’s this small window of time for something we want to work with, that we’ll have for maybe a week or two and then can’t have again for another 51 weeks,” he said. “Black locust flowers, for example, are up for one week in an entire year. Ramps are another; they are only in season for about two weeks. They are just like wild leeks, they have a nice garlic and onion flavor.” Viaud said proteins such as beef, pork, chicken and duck (sourced from Élevage de Volailles in Loudon) will likely stay around the same on the menu. For example, while items like a burger may stay, he said he may change up what the added sauce will be. Greenleaf’s cocktails will also not only use ingredients from local farms, but some will pay tribute to some of the original owners of the building. Sarasin shared one example of a drink being named after Frederick W. Sawyer, the son of the original bank’s branch manager who rescued his whole family after they were robbed, kidnapped and locked in their own vault in 1867. Even a non-alcoholic cocktail program of drinks made with juices pressed fresh daily is in the works. “We always feel like the bar is an extension of the kitchen,” Sarasin said. “Not only are we going to use fresh flavors, but we’re going to be building raised beds for heirloom edible flowers that we’ll use for garnishes across the board.” 33
Greenleaf An opening date is expected in the coming weeks. Visit the website or follow them on social media for updates. Where: 54 Nashua St., Milford Anticipated hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 4 to 10 p.m. Closed on Mondays. Visit: greenleafmilford.com or follow them on Facebook and Instagram @ greenleafmilford