
5 minute read
West Side Story

Skiing up Trail Ridge Road from the west side of RMNP
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Story and photos by Murray Selleck
Another strong gust of wind whipped at my jacket and pants. I sounded like a flag. The windchill felt like ice on my face and my fingers must have gone south since I couldn't feel them anymore.
No amount of arm swinging would help bring those digits back. It must be turn-around me, I thought to myself.
My legs were talking more common sense than my eyes. I had hoped to be able to ski further up Trail Ridge Road beyond Milner Pass and Poudre Lake but my legs were saying think about the return trip down.
I could see the low angle climb to Medicine Bow Curve above Poudre Lake. It didn't look too bad or too far. I really wanted to reach treeline and maybe get a view of the Alpine Visitor Center.
In this case my legs and common sense won out. Turn-around time it was.

Earlier that morning, I had met a friend from Fraser at the Timber Lake Trailhead on the west side of Rocky Mountain National park. Our plan was to ski up Trail Ridge Road as far as we could and back down in a day. The first thing my friend said when we met up was he could only ski with me for about an hour before he had to get back. Well, you make a plan and see what happens is generally the case. I was happy for the company no matter how brief.
We followed a ski trail that had been broken and skied up through the twisting switchbacks that the west side of Trail Ridge is famous for. Both sides of the road were filled with snow-loaded pines and spruce and between the trees were little pockets of gorgeous views to the west and north.
At about switchback #4 my skiing partner turned for home and I continued up on my own.
Through the switchbacks, the ski trail had been hammered and hoofed by at least one moose and maybe more. The footprints in the track made setting my kick between those deep craters a bit tricky while I kept my eyes open just in case a moose still had designs on redecorating the ski track.

The track ended at Farview Curve and up above was a blank canvas of pristine snow with not a ski track in sight. My free ride just ended and the true work of breaking my own trail was about to begin.
I slid my skis through boot top snow. That's not terribly deep but this snow was not light and fluffy. The previous snowstorm had come through with a bunch of wind and compacted it firm enough to create resistance but not firm enough to stay on top. Breaking trail like this is easy enough when you set a steady tempo and lose yourself in your thoughts and surroundings.
Trail Ridge is not a hard climb. It's road grade and offers an easy kick for skiers. Steep road cut slopes on one side, road markers for the snowplows to open the road come spring mark the other side along with lots of trees lining the drop off make navigation easy.

Massive and wind-whipped Jackstraw Mountain to my right kept me company and the looming Continental Divide slowly came within sight with each forward stride.
One of the difficulties a skier may encounter is dealing with the elevation gain over distance. Timber Lake Trailhead is around 8,800 feet. Milner Pass is at a lung-sucking 10,700 feet, that's just shy of 2,000 feet of climbing. Temperatures may drop and wind will likely increase as you gain elevation. The weather here is nothing if not unpredictable.

As I skied further up I didn't see any sign that a skier had been up there for quite awhile, or at all. Old trails plowed in by moose and tracks made by snowshoe hares were my constant reminders of the critters who make this national park home.
I admired the power of the moose to wade through deep snow. I was just as jealous of the rabbit's light footed ability to cover ground. The space between their leaps in the snow paled compared to my slow methodical trudge to create my own track.

I turned around and skied face first into a cold headwind. My long kick and glide back down was going to be filled with a cold windy resistance. No matter. You come up here for the scenery, the grandeur, the solitude and gratitude... gratude that such a park exists at all and it is worth any effort to witness it in any season. Trail Ridge is a grand xc tour. It should be considered a Colorado classic. If you love to cross country ski, if you love covering ground under your own power, and if you love being surrounded by the beauty of one of the greatest national parks; then, Trail Ridge Road should be on your list to ski.

If You Go:
- Expect the best but pack for the worst. Pack some food and then add a bit more. It's surprising how fast and how many calories you'll burn. Extra food may just be enough.
- Take water bottles that won't freeze shut on you. Yes, my water bottle froze shut at Milner Pass and didn't loosen until back down at Timber Lake. That's a long, thirsty descent.
- Pick your best weather day possible. You'll want the big views of the park's scenery. It would still be a fun ski tour if the clouds were socked in but you'll regret not seeing the big mountains.
- Road grade and westerly headwinds don't allow for a carefree glide back down. You'll still have to put some effort into your skis going down the trail. Save enough energy for your return trip. Let common sense (and your legs) rule your day!

Murray Selleck moved to Colorado in 1978. In the early 80’s he split his me working winters in a ski shop in Steamboat Springs and his summers guiding on the Arkansas River. His career in the specialty outdoor industry has continued for over 30 years. Needless to say, he has witnessed decades of change in outdoor equipment and clothing. Steamboat Springs continues to be home.

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