Long Delite Farm and Deliteful Dairy ‘doing things the new, old-fashioned way’

written by TRICIA LYNN STRADER

While traditional farms increasingly disappear, there are still some that go back generations.

Long Delite Farm is one of them.

In 1831, the Long family settled on a large piece of property in Williamsport, just north of Downsville. Today, Brooks and Katie Long represent the seventh generation to operate the 160-acre parcel. Brooks, who was raised on the farm and worked alongside his father, Galen, and his grandfather Lawrence, recalled growing crops and raising livestock.

When he graduated from high school in 2001, he decided to stay on the farm. He didn’t go to college for one of the agricultural-based programs, but learned from doing, reading and researching.

“We made the decision to transition to a rotational grazing operation in 2002 to better utilize our facilities and very rocky ground,” Brooks said.

A farmer’s life like his isn’t exciting, he said, but it is fulfilling. There’s always something that needs to be done.

“While being your own boss is great, it can also be very stressful, but it’s in my blood, and it’s what I do,” he said.

Family affair

Living and working on the farm is still a family affair. In 2004, Brooks married Katie, who was born and raised on a dairy farm in Smithsburg. They formed a strong friendship while showing cows together in 4-H and married after Katie graduated from Wilson College. Son Kaleb came along in 2006, followed by daughter Brielle in 2007.

In 2009, they purchased the cows and equipment side of the operation from his father, who still works on the farm part time. They purchased the property from his grandparents around 2016.

While the cows are grazing in the pasture, Brooks’ day begins early, before 6 a.m. Cows are milked twice, in early morning and late afternoon. He feeds them non-GMO grain while in the milking parlor.

“I ll the transport tank in early morning before milking. I work in the eld, milk in the afternoon and work in the office overseeing the business,” he said. “This time of year, I’m also making hay to feed the cows over the winter. The No. 1 priority is the health and well-being of the cows. Producing high-quality forages for grazing and hay production is a key to that. That’s what we focus on, and the girls do the rest.”

The Longs sell milk to the Maryland & Virginia Milk Producers Cooperative, of which they’ve been a member for more than 50 years. They added to the number of cows at one time, milking 75 to 80 daily. But they found that a smaller number of cows was better for the land and settled on 60. They have been awarded the Dairy of Distinction award from the Maryland Dairy Association and the Farm of the Year award.

According to www.washco-md.net, the Washington County Farm of the Year award was created in 2010, and the program’s first winner was recognized in 2011. The Maryland Dairy of Distinction program was created in 2009 by the Maryland Dairy Industry Association. The concept for the program is that well-kept farms enhance consumer confidence in the dairy industry. The program recognizes the hard work and dedication of dairy owners and operators who have attractive farms and provide a good image for the dairy industry. Since 2009, 44 dairy farms have been recognized across the state, with 10 being in Washington County.

Brooks Long is the seventh generation of his family to operate the 160 acre Long Delite Farm near Williamsport.

Colleen McGrath/ Herald-Mail

Creative route

In Maryland, Washington County is ranked first for inventory of dairy cows and number of dairy farms. Brooks said about 100 farms average 100 to 120 cows. As the world dairy market started to transition away from small, family-type operations, the Longs wondered what to do. The industry was focusing on efficiency rather than quality and taste. They couldn’t expand to a large operation and began to explore the world of direct marketing. They did not want to compromise the taste and nutrition of whole milk.

“We had to get big, get out or get creative,” Brooks said. “We went the creative route. We opened the store here about two years ago. It took off and has been doing very well.”

That store is the Deliteful Dairy. Visitors can stop in, check out the cows, and watch much of the operation of making rich-tasting whole milk and flavored milk and butters, plus artisan whole-milk cheeses. They can take home some of the farm-to-table products.

The Longs also branched out to selling milk in parts of Pennsylvania, West Virginia and Dover, Del. Brooks is considering starting home delivery in some areas. Their milk is slow-vat pasteurized to keep the rich milk flavor. Pasteurization is required by law. He said large operations process it at 162 degrees for 30 seconds or 180 degrees for ultra-pasteurization, to save time. But something’s lost, he said, when doing so quickly at such high temperatures. He pasteurizes their milk at 145 degrees for a half-hour and cools it immediately afterward. However, it’s not homogenized, so the natural cream rises to the top.

Brooks said customers comment that the Longs’ process makes digestion of the milk much easier on the stomach.

“We credit it to the nonhomogenization. That keeps it in its more natural state, so the body can absorb it easier. People who think they’re lactose-intolerant or allergic tell us it’s easier to digest. When they run out and go to the store for a quick milk purchase, they tell us they could really notice the difference. I don’t have any hard science to back it up, but it’s what customers tell us.”

Farm visit

When visitors come to Deliteful Dairy and look around the farm, they can talk to Katie or perhaps catch Brooks going between the office, milking operation or store. They’ll see a new window in the processing room. They can watch milk bottling and cheese making. A cheesery is coming soon, with gourmet panini grilled cheese and other foods for carryout or outdoor dining. Customers can also find beef, pork and eggs right from the farm.

“Obviously, farming makes us very proud,” Brooks said. “We’re one of only 2% of Americans responsible for feeding the rest of our population, as well as many people in other countries through exports. We are doing things the new, old-fashioned way.”