SHAVING: YOU’RE DOING IT WRONG
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT MANUAL SHAVING
Shaving is probably more common to your mornings than pancakes and orange juice, and like many men, you often take it for granted. Maybe you find it a chore, or perhaps even worse—a painful necessity. Despite having shaved countless times, many men complain about a number of shaving side effects—not getting as close a shave as desired, irritated skin, razor bumps, nicks or ingrown hairs. Dragging a sharp blade against your hairy chin is a scary prospect when you stop to think about it, but with a little honing of shaving skills, anyone can transform an annoyance into a morning ritual to look forward to.
THE PREP WORK With the proper steps, you can soften your hairs, open your pores and lubricate your skin, making shaving a breeze and also a daily mini-facial. Many men shortchange their shaving prep, but the following steps are essential to getting both a close, comfortable, one-pass shave and healthy skin.
WASH YOUR FACE
Start by washing your face. Dirt, grime, dead skin and oils are all things you want to avoid when performing such a delicate operation on very sensitive skin. Facial cleansers work best because they help soften the protein in the hair and exfoliate dead skin that will clog razor blades.
USE HOT WATER
Heat helps open your pores and soften your beard, so taking a hot shower right before shaving is ideal. If a shower is not an option, splash hot water over
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the face or, if there is time, wrap a towel soaked with hot water around the face like barbershops do. Hot water softens the protein keratin that makes up part of the hair and also allows your hairs to swell with water. Keep your face warm and moist during the entire shaving process.
SHAVING CREAM
Apply shaving cream and let it sit for 2 to 3 minutes; this allows your hair follicles to fully hydrate and swell with water, making them easier to cut. If you have one, use a shaving brush in a circular motion to create a good lather, ending with upstrokes to lift up your hairs. Comb your hair or brush your teeth while you wait. The longer you let the shaving cream stay on your face before shaving, the softer your skin and your beard will be. If you’re in a hurry, at least start shaving on the side of your face, then your moustache and end with your chin. Your chin hairs are usually the stiffest, so you’ll allow those hairs to soften longer if you reserve this portion for last.
PUTTING STEEL TO SKIN RAZOR SELECTION
Razor companies would like you to believe that the number of blades or the flexibility of the razor justify spending big money on their products. But by far the most important factors to a comfortable shave are only using sharp razors and keeping your blades clean from hairs and dead skin. Depending on how often you shave and how thick your beard grows, you may need to replace your razors every 10 to
HEALTHY MAGAZINE JUNE 2013
15 shaves, which may or may not justify buying expensive razors. Remember that using dull razors is the cardinal sin of shaving, resulting in irritation and ingrown hairs.
WITH THE GRAIN
Shaving with the grain is essential. This doesn’t always mean shaving down, however. Let your beard grow out a few days and you’ll be able to see which direction your hairs grow, which is the same direction you should shave. You may get a closer shave going against the grain, but you also greatly increase your chances for getting ingrown hairs and nicks. If you want a closer shave, lather up again and focus on the specific problem areas. Professional barbers often shave with the grain the first lather and then shave sideways after the second. However, be careful with these last two suggestions; overshaving an area often causes skin irritation. Finally,
use very light pressure when shaving. Pushing too hard down also leads to skin irritation and ingrown hairs.
COLD WATER TO FINISH
After you’ve finished, wash your face with coldest water you can comfortably stand. Ending with a cold water wash discourages inflammation in the same way a cold compress helps swelling and closes your pores, helping to keep them unclogged.
AFTERSHAVE
Aftershave lotions and moisturizers can be used to help keep your skin healthy and moisturized. Shaving is a traumatic experience for your skin as you remove a couple layers of skin after a typical shave. Using moisturizer helps keep your skin healthy and soft, particularly if you have sensitive skin. But don’t use harsh alcohol-based aftershaves, which cause redness and irritation.
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