HAUTE DINING
THE CAVALIER Bridging the best of London and San Francisco BY STEPH KEAY
I
T CAN BE HARD TO FIND REFUGE FROM THE CONSTANT hustle and bustle of the city: somewhere you can sink into a banquette and cozy up for date night, catch up over a decadent brunch with longtime friends, or even saunter into and grab an apéritif after some solo retail therapy. Somehow, The Cavalier’s stylish yet inviting space is perfect for all that—and more. Understated on the outside, quirky elegance on the inside, the London-leaning brasserie designed by interior design dynamo Ken Fulk is operated by the dream team of executive chef Jennifer Puccio and managing partner James Nicholas. Tucked into a side street in San Francisco’s SoMa neighborhood and adjacent to Hotel Zetta, it’s a day-to-night dining space one can stop into for any occasion. Following the pandemic shutdown, Nicholas has brought in industry veteran Andrew Fuentes as general manager. Fuentes most recently managed teams at Saison, Eight Table, and Ozumo. Nicholas also re-enlisted high powered event planner extraordinaire, Alisha Lamos, and inventive cocktailian, Ross
32
Katzenberg, to concoct luxurious new refreshments—e.g., the Tzar Martini with Beluga vodka and caviar—for the drink menu. Previous favorites with a British bent, such as The White Lady, inspired by a recipe from the iconic American Bar at the Savoy Hotel, will still be shaken (or stirred). Meanwhile, the menu of elevated, British-inspired pub fare has also been reinvigorated, with Puccio continuing to derive inspiration from California’s bounty of farm-fresh produce and her culinary expertise across cuisines. Her creativity can be credited to her extensive career—from working in the kitchens of James Beard Award winner Ana Sortun’s Oleana in Cambridge, Massachusetts, to honing her talent here in the Bay at Elisabeth Daniel, Cortez, and Ubuntu. New additions to The Cavalier’s menu include reimagined versions of the Dungeness crab soufflé with salad lyonnaise and steak tartare with Aleppo peppers and polenta crostini. Have no fear: Puccio’s signature Brussels sprout chips, dusted with smoky-sweet vadouvan, will remain on the menu, as will
PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE CAVALIER
The Blue Bar at The Cavalier