HAUTE DINING
A gorgeous spread of dishes at Via Veneto
LA DOLCE VITA STOP BY VIA VENETO TO BE REMINDED OF THE SIMPLE PLEASURES IN LIFE: GOOD FOOD, GOOD PEOPLE, AND GOOD TIMES
AMED AFTER ONE OF THE MOST ELEGANT streets in Rome, Via Veneto has been a mainstay of the Pacific Heights community for more than 30 years, no easy feat in San Francisco’s costly and competitive culinary landscape. Not unlike its namesake, the neighborhood Italian trattoria has hosted many notable personalities during its time—just see the photo of owner Massimo Lavino and Robert De Niro behind the bar. The food is hearty and satisfying, as Italian fare should be, but Via Veneto draws a sizable crowd of regulars because of its delightful owner and warm, attentive staff. Unlike some
32
restaurant owners who stay strictly behind closed doors, Lavino is constantly on the floor and seemingly everywhere all at once. There’s a welcoming air of familiarity as soon as he greets you, as though he’s been waiting for you to show up. Suddenly, you wonder why you hadn’t dropped by sooner to see your old friend, Massimo. I watch as he darts around with a pepper mill under his arm, breezing through the front door and serving diners seated at sidewalk tables while socializing with familiar faces strolling by. Suddenly he’s behind Via Veneto’s bar, stirring up one of his oft-requested Negronis.
PHOTO CREDITS: © ROBERT RICHARDS
N
BY STEPH KEAY