Issuu on Google+

S

I

N

G

A

P

O

R

E

march 2012 $6.80 incl. gst

Ko Chen Tung

FASHION

FORWARD looks, icons & inspirations


G-Star Stores Singapore IOn Orchard Unit B1-06 - Paragon Unit 02-31/32 Isetan Orchard Level 2 operated by sidefame pte ltd, fenix group


UNIT 01-48, PARAGON, TEL. 65.6738.3323 • LEVEL 1, TAKASHIMAYA DEPARTMENT STORE TEL. 65.6738.2212


TEAM Publisher/Editorial Director EDDY KOH

INTERNATIONAL EDITIONS

Editor-in-Chief DANIEL GOH daniel@heartmedia.asia

HEART MEDIA SDN BHD C10 2nd Floor Mail Box 334 Fahrenheit 88 179 Jalan Bukit Bintang 55100 Kuala Lumpur Malaysia Tel (603) 2148 9923 Email marketing@heartmedia.asia

Senior Features Writer HAFIZ RASID Contributing Writers AARON TAN ARAVIN KUMAR Fashion Stylist TOK WEI LUN Assistant VP, Sales & Marketing AILEEN SOH aileen@heartmedia.asia Executives, Sales & Marketing HUDA KARIM huda@heartmedia.asia KAI kai@heartmedia.asia Coordinator, Sales & Marketing SHIKIN MOHD shikin@heartmedia.asia SHAHILA JURAIMI shahila@heartmedia.asia Art Director HAN Graphic Designer JEREMY GOH

MEN’S FOLIO MICA (P) No. 001/12/2011 & ISSN 0219-0982 is a publication of HEART PUBLISHING PTE LTD 2 Alexandra Road #07-08 Delta House Singapore 159919 Telephone (65) 6733 9931 Facsimile (65) 6733 5661 Printed by Fabulous Printers Pte Ltd No part of MEN’S FOLIO may be reproduced in any form or by any means without prior written consent from Heart Publishing Pte Ltd

34

MEN’S FOLIO MALAYSIA

MEN’S FOLIO INDONESIA PT. KINGPIN MEDIA PO Box 6169 JKUPL 1440 Indonesia Tel +62 21 722 4632 / 722 4639 Email info@kingpinmedia.co.id


UNIT 01-48, PARAGON, TEL. 65.6738.3323 • LEVEL 1, TAKASHIMAYA DEPARTMENT STORE TEL. 65.6738.2212


CONTRIBUTORS Our March contributors speak out on fashion and style

Ilyazid Ilyas

Makeup Artist

I have always believed that fashion is a personal interpretation of inspirations that you derive from your surroundings. My inspiration and personal style is a constant battle between maximal eccentricity cut through with pared down minimalist. A dusting of David Hockney or Andy Warhol would not hurt any wardrobe but of course practice some restraint.

Wesley Loh

Callum Smith

Photographer

Photographer

I think my work defines my life and hence my style. I don’t believe in having dramatic colours in my clothing probably because I’m dramatic enough with my personality. So I stick to calmer shades of beige and greys. Also being a photographer, the attention should be on the the subject in front of the lens, not behind it. I believe style is confidence. One cannot exist without the other. An insecure but wealthy businessman dressed in Savile Row will still look worse than a self assured bum in an opt shop blazer.

36

Style is what you want others to think you are and more importantly what you really are when no one’s looking. The majority of my fashion influences is from the music and the musicians I listen to, I grew up on a generous dose of Brit Pop and I guess my younger years were spent trying to emulate the musicians if not in talent then at least in style. I could relate to their words and a lot of my inspiration comes from thinking about how they talk about the things they do, picturing how they lived and what they thought about. Just trying to think about what it would be like to be them. Even after I grounded myself, the influence still pervades the way I think.


THE GIFT OF TIME

‘‘Cape Cod’’ watch in steel with alligator strap.


THE GIFT OF TIME


Double-breasted jacket in cotton and silk seersucker. Blouson shirt and trousers in cotton poplin. Liat Towers Tel. 6738 9807 Takashimaya Tel. 6735 5228 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands Tel. 6688 7111 Scotts Square Tel. 6636 1181 Hermes.com


coverlook

This month’s khaki craze: (L-R) Dries Van Noten, Hermes and Fendi

PHOTOGRAPHY Mark Law STYLING Daniel Goh STYLING ASSISTANT Wei Lun HAIR Ark Lin using L’Oreal Professional GROOMING Lolent Lee using M.A.C Cosmetics MODEL Ko Chen Tung OUTFIT DOLCE & GABBANA Leather lattice blouson worn over white T-shirt, khaki trousers and calf belt WATCH HUBLOT Big Bang rose gold automatic chronograph with 48 baguette diamonds

Bite The Dust The hue ‘khaki’ was derived from the Hindustani language to denote dust. Since the British Army in India first introduced khaki in 1861 as a kind of camouflage for the tropics, some armies around the world have utilised similar hued cotton drill fabric in their uniforms for operational service and summertime garb. When war veterans returned home wearing the colour, khaki eventually migrated to civilian wear. Khaki has also been associated with safari attire. Khaki played a major role in shirts, trousers and outerwear in Out Of Africa, which starred American golden boy Robert Redford at his handsome prime. From 1970s onwards, khaki reigned in urban centres with a gamut of interpretations from preppy chinos to rugged safari suits.

PRADA Document cases

CANALI Cotton shirt

40

RALPH LAUREN Black label cotton chinos

DIOR HOMME Leather shoes

LOUIS VUITTON Silk tie


coverlook

(L-R) Fendi, Ermenegildo Zegna, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Dries Van Noten and Etro

To turn khaki into a bold staple of your wardrobe, wear chinos instead of jeans. With a lean fit and lower rise, sharply pressed chinos with side tabs are now appropriate for the workplace with a smart navy blazer. A fine-gauge crewneck cashmere sweater with clean white sneakers would be ideal for a laid-back movie date. For a beach wedding, a lightweight cotton khaki suit would be a fresh alternative to navy. A crisp white shirt with a spread collar, a black silk tie gilded with a gold tie bar, a leather belt and an alabaster pocket square will be all you need to construct a polished statement. By Aravin Kumar

Robert Redford

ck calvin klein Leather belts

GIORGIO ARMANI Sunglasses DOLCE & GABBANA Sneakers

Etro Sweater

42

DOLCE & GABBANa Gold tie bar

FENDI Leather bag

Louis vuitton Scarf


editor’s picks

Asian Fashion Icons

March is All About…

In our Runway Report this month (page 72 – 76), we are proud to draw inspiration from the style of Asian icons David Tang and Edison Chen, who between them portray the spectrum of masculine style, from Mr Tang’s rumpled refinement of another generation, to Mr Chen’s street savvy sexiness of today. You’ll also see a fashion spread inspired by the last emperor of China (page 116). It really makes a refreshing change from more of the usual style people that you see all over the place: yes, random Western figures devoid of context or relevance. PIAGET Altiplano

RALPH LAUREN

You can never be Too Thin (or too Vulgar)

Khaki Colour

We are showing a lot of khaki in this issue not just because I like this wardrobe staple – it’s simply an item that is cropping up literally all over the shop. The colour brought to mind this passage from Brideshead Revisited by Evelyn Waugh: “One day in a cupboard we found a large japanned-tin box of oilpaints still in workable condition. ‘Mummy bought them a year or two ago. Someone told her that you could only appreciate the beauty of the world by trying to paint it. We laughed at her a great deal about it. She couldn’t draw at all, and however bright, the colour were in the tubes, by the time mummy had mixed them up, they came out a kind of khaki.’ Various dry, muddy smears on the palette confirmed this statement.”

44

Summer Better Than Others If you’re planning a rest cure at a island getaway consider these perfect summer basics: A slouchy Hermes hobo bag and a pair of spare sandals.

I’ve seen watches grow bigger and ever more baroque in their make and design over the years and I think it’s a worrying trend. You might as well be wearing the town hall clock (Big Ben anyone?) or a sundial (there used to be one at the Botanical Gardens, but it’s gone – is someone wearing it?). If status is what you’re striving for, people should be more honest about it and simply strap a thick bundle of cash on their wrists with a rubber band or, let’s be more obvious, hang it around their necks on a ribbon. The same goes for mobile ‘devices’. They are getting bigger by the model and challenging the idea of mobility. So go thin: I think Piaget’s elegant Altiplano is the perfect watch for now. Spare and reduced, it makes perfect sense. I also like the razor’s edge sharpness of Motorola’s Razr for its serious, nofrills appeal. The Dior Homme clutch is perfect too – I think the moment for those cumbersome, heavy, hardware-laden it-bags is truly over, don’t you? By Daniel Goh


note from the editor

QUALITY AND QUANTITY

T

his particular unremarkable season is a good example of where men’s fashion is at right now. There is a vast quantity of very good clothes, clothes of excellent quality both in workmanship and fabrication, at every level of the market, from the excellent jeans at Uniqlo all the way up to a croco jacket at Hermes. In fact, if there’s any one trend that marks this particular fashion era, it would be the complete festishism of craftmenship and artisanship. Good quality is flooding every price point in the market, catering to every taste level. Is this good? It means that fashion has finally become a true democracy and no longer a dictatorship of, and the reserve for, the elite. However, and am I asking for too much here? – I think not – that there is also a sense that fashion has become monotonously the same. There’s a vast multitude of merchandise, but no individual thing that is particularly, urgently desirable, or even of note. Innovative design, which reveals the new, which breaks with the past, that which makes fashion addictive and exciting, doesn’t seem to exist anymore. And maybe this is the flip side of the same coin – there’s no bad fashion now either. With the prevalence of all sorts of style blogs and stylezines, some dubious and run by 15-year-old Canadians, and with the suddenly rudderless traditional fashion elite jumping to join the increasingly senseless babel of style voices, all fashion is now possible. If you don’t believe me, just look around you. People are wearing a never-before heterogeneity of styles – none of it bad fashion, if you refer to those many street-style blogs, but none of it particularly new either. Some quarters of the fashion world add to the confusion by promoting a frivolousness and vulgarity that seems as naff as those old-school designers who seem stuck in a treadmill of recycling. The more fashion changes, and the more quickly, the more it stays the same. It’s very apparent because my job actually requires me to look at fashion, and to try to make some sense of it all, and to write about it.

46


Polo_S_MF_0312.pdf

Page

1

16/01/12,

11:07:37

AM


note from the editor

If there’s any one trend that marks this particular fashion erat, it would be the complete festishism of craftmenship and artisanship.

So I can say with some confidence that there really hasn’t been anything new since 1990. After the cleansing minimalism of that decade, it’s been one endless round of recycling and pastiche after another. It’s the ‘post-modern’ disease. The last 20 years has seen the comeback of the 1980s five times at least, the latest round of baroque Versace prints merely the latest 1980s iteration. Designers continually reference, heavy-handedly, the nostalgia soaked eras of fashion past. A lot of the strictly traditional ‘sartorial’ dressing comes unchanged from the turn of the 1900s. Khaki, such a staple today, is from the 19th century. The high-waisted, wide-legged pants so hot now come from the 1920s. The leather aviator blousons are from the 1930s, the slim tailoring from the 1970s, the boho prints form 1960s, etc and so forth. Some of these ideas might once have seemed fresh and relevant, but after its umpteenth reappearance, none of it means anything anymore, despite the increasingly good quality of everything. It’s all dross. An optimistic note: although it’s certain that the age of genius is passing here’s a bit of hope. We have at the moment a strong handful (pitifully few!) of designers and visionaries not content to just contribute to the pile of stuff that can’t possibly interest any intelligent person. Designers like Raf Simons, Alber Elbaz, Rick Owens, Sarah Burton, Miuccia Prada, Karl Lagerfeld and Phoebe Philo really give me a reason to look at another fashion show, and if there is anything I can wish for this season, it would be for you, gentle reader, to consider before you consume and let’s not go clicking onto those banal, mind-corrupting style blogs if you can help it.

Daniel Goh editor-in-Chief

50


X10 10 things to

do, know, see,

buy,

experience

&thisenjoy month.


X10

Young Blood If exquisite Parisian-chic Balmain is epitomised by rock legend Jimi Hendrix, then its young diffusion line, Pierre Balmain would be embodied by today’s adolescent pop sensation Justin Bieber. With plenty of dark leather and lean denims encompassing its soft-edged rock ‘n’ roll-meets-hip hop swagger, Pierre Balmain is finally here with a store at Scotts Square. Carrying its complete range of menswear and accessories, the 771-sq ft boutique is the perfect walk-in wardrobe for the young man strutting to the thumping disco beats of David Guetta on his headphones. By Aravin Kumar

Pierre Balmain is slated to open in March at #01-11 Scotts Square


X10

Epicurean Season If there’s a common love that strikes a chord with Singaporeans, it’s the love of food. In celebration of this indulgence, an impressive list of over 100 restaurants – including Buyan Russian Haute Cuisine & Caviar Bar and Garibaldi – will be participating in Restaurant Week, a week-long gastronomic affair set to reignite your infatuation with delectable cuisines. Back for its fourth edition, the culinary event opens doors to some of the finest dining establishments for diners of every pocket. Exclusive threecourse menus for lunch and dinner are reasonably priced at $25+++ and $35+++ respectively, bringing haute cuisine to a wider audience. By Hafiz Rasid Restaurant Week will run from March 19 to 25, 2012, and bookings can be made online at www.restaurantweek.sg. Please note that Dining City Star-Awarded restaurants charge a supplement of $15 for lunch and $20 for dinner


The playwright in his childhood days

X10

Vox Populi Set against the momentous 2011 General Elections, Alfian Sa’at’s political satire Cooling Off Day cleverly weaves the concerns and opinions of Singaporeans he interviewed in the months leading to the elections into a bold play. “At a time when we as a society are experiencing a political awakening and wanting to have a greater say in how our country is run,” notes Ivan Heng, artistic director of W!ild Rice, “this production has a sense of urgency and immediacy that only the experience of live theatre can provide.” Led by an ensemble of renowned theatre-heavyweights, including Jo Kukathas and Neo Swee Lin, Cooling Off Day’s sharp insights into the private thoughts of voters and candidates are sure to renew the public’s interest in politics; served with a healthy Singaporean dose of gallows hilarity. By Hafiz Rasid Cooling Off Day is running till March 11, 2012 at the School of the Arts Drama Theatre. Tickets are available at SISTIC, www.sistic.com.sg, Tel: 6348 5555


X10

Picturesque Commentary They say a picture is worth a thousand words, and an image by photojournalist-turned-fine arts photographer, Gerard Rancinan, truly speaks volume. In his words, “a picture is not a language. A picture is a shock. You have to shock people. You have to take the people in front of the picture with you and let them feel the emotion.” As one of France’s highest ranking photographers, Rancinan’s work has been featured in the most critical contemporary art collections in the world, where his piercing social commentary – and at times grotesque imagery – has earned him a reputation as a premier fine arts photographer. Showcased in a solo this month at Opera Gallery Singapore, photo-enthusiasts can step into his world of biting social commentary. By Hafiz Rasid Gerard Rancinan’s solo exhibition will run from March 9 to 25, 2012 at Opera Gallery, #03-05, ION Orchard. For more information, visit www.operagallery.com


X10

BAY Bedazzled iLight Marina Bay 2012 is the second edition of Asia’s first and only sustainable light art festival. This dazzling display is themed Light Meets Asia and will feature 30 innovative and environmentally sustainable light art installations, with a strong focus on works from Asia. The installations are by new, emerging, and wellknown artists from countries across Asia, including Singapore. They will be displayed along the Marina Bay waterfront, transforming the place into a magical space of light and colour. Visitors to iLight Marina Bay 2012 can enjoy a full array of complementary programmes and activities – including a night picnic, carnival, performances, guided tours, talks and workshops. By Aaron Tan

iLight Marina Bay takes place from March 9 to April 1, 2012 from 7pm to 11pm


SPORT B. ad in Men’s Folio Men's Folio (1pp Mens) TRIMMED - 232mm x 308mm BLEED - 238mm x 314mm TYPE AREA - 200mm x 278mm

SPRING SUMMER COLLECTION IN STORES Isetan Orchard Level 2 6738 3217

www.agnesb-sportb.com

13 Feb 2012


Inspiration Image by Olaf Bruening for Bally Love

X10

Life in Technicolour In the dead of the darkness, the five figures stand shoulder to shoulder. Their piercing gaze is unsettling. Plaster white paste covers their skin from top to toe. Clownish jewel-toned wigs frame their flamboyant panda eyes. Their lips are stained thick. They seem to be utterly stark naked at first glance, but wrist-deep gloves, ankle-cut socks and bags, fashioned out of masking tape and then coated with Bally’s vibrant colours, adorn their bodies. These enigmatic creatures, along with Bally’s vintage posters, are the muses for renowned Swiss artist Olaf Breuning in this collaborative project entitled BallyLove #2. The capsule collection includes a men’s loafer, totes, a messenger bag, scarves and other accessories. By Aravin Kumar

BallyLove #2 will be available from April 2012 online and at selected Bally flagships.


1

01/02/12

16:41

camper.com

CAMPER_T74_SINGAPORE_MENSFOLIO_WR.pdf

Water Runner by Camper

VivoCity #01-21, ION Orchard #B1-13, Paragon #03-43/44, Isetan Scotts Men’s Department Level 3, Takashimaya Ladies’ Department Level 1, Takashimaya Men’s Department Level 3, The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands #B2-13


X10

King’s Silver With 180 years of history that saw the evolution of its matchless workmanship and refinement, Christofle was always a royal favourite. Appointed the ‘Silversmith to the King’ and ‘Purveyor to the Emperor’ during the reign of Napoleon III, the French house of Christofle has not only perpetuated its excellent reputation but with its spirit of innovation and creativity, forged its way into the present with a diverse range of fine silver and crystal homeware and accessories. The silver leaf bowl (above), designed by artist Karim Rashid, has ultra-modern lines and unique geometric forms. Crafted by master artisans, it will add lustre to the home with its gleaming silver finish. By Aaron Tan

Christofle stores can be found at 19 Burn Road and 581 Orchard Road


X10

Swan Song Presenting one of the greatest classical ballets of all time, the Singapore Dance Theatre opens Season 2012 with its rendition of the timeless classic, Swan Lake. Through evocative music and skilful dance, Swan Lake tells the magical tale where the princess Odette is captured by an evil sorcerer and transformed into a swan, the spell not to be broken until she is promised true love by a man who is pure at heart. With spectacular staging, resplendent raiment, classical music by Tchaikovsky and breathtaking movements, audiences can expect a stunning performance of one of the world’s most beloved ballets. By Aaron Tan

Catch Swan Lake at The Esplanade Theatres from March 15-18, 2012


X10

Hearty Sillage The connection between memory and scent is as fascinating to researchers as it is to fragrance enthusiasts. Inspired by the power of scents, Serge Lutens extends an invitation to indulge in an olfactive reverie with his latest gourmand creation, Jeux de Peau. Anointed with mouth-watering notes of milk, coconut, licorice and apricot, the fragrance is a nod to the nostalgia of childhood, telling the story of Lutens’s many memorable trips to the boulangerie as a boy. Unlike the tooth-achingly sweet accord that is associated with most gourmand perfumes, Jeux de Peau approaches the genre from a hearty angle – more buttered toast than cupcake. As the imagery suggests, the top notes greet the nose with warm, yeasty baked-goods accords, tempered by the floral notes of immortelle and dry sandalwood. By Hafiz Rasid

Serge Lutens’s Jeux de Peau is available at Escentials, #03-02/05, Paragon, Tel: 6736 2478


X10

A Japanese Invasion Taking the notion of deconstruction to the extreme, he slashes and tears apart garments then fuses them back together again with poetic aggression. The notoriously reclusive Jun Takahashi (above), founder of avant-garde label Undercover, is next in line to partner Japanese fast fashion giant Uniqlo, after Jil Sander’s minimalist +J took a bow with its final neat navy blazer last fall. Instead of Undercover’s antagonistic anti-glamour sensibility, Takahashi takes an optimistic approach for spring, by constructing a comprehensive collection for the modern family. Marrying Uniqlo’s ‘Made For All’ philosophy with Undercover’s archive of colours and cuts, even the kids will be queuing up to get their tiny paws on this surefire collaboration. By Aravin Kumar UNIQLO X Undercover collection will be launched on March 16, 2012 at 313@Somerset


mAGNET runway

Spring Icons The season’s new looks, inspired by these fashion icons, exemplify what’s perfect right now. By Aravin Kumar

ACNE

DRIES VAN NOTEN

ETRO

Bigger Trees Near Warter (2007)

David Hockney: English tailoring reworked with humour

COmme des garcons IPad case, MR PORTER

Rainbow Rebellion

Appearance: Characterised by his chunky circular frames and bleached mop, David Hockey is a living legend and multihyphenated artist with works in stage design, printmaking and photography. His colour-driven works mirror his graphic style. In his youth, striped rugby shirts, chinos and tennis shoes were his staples. In his seniority, he has moved on to relaxed tailoring with knitted ties and tweed blazers, although his obsession with colour hasn’t cooled. Runway: David Hockney’s affiliation with colours and stripes was prevalent at the Milan and Paris collections. Stripes prevailed at Dries Van Noten with tri-colour combinations, while Etro presented cheerfully checked tailoring. HOW TO: Take a lesson in colour from the artist and play around with your classics this season. For work, relieve monotony with bold shirt and tie combos. Switch your cotton ties for silk knit ties. Instead of a solid-coloured shirt, pick out dress shirts in pastels, or stripes and shock your neutral wingtips with striped or argyle socks.

ETRO Knit ties

H&M Pastel pink blazer

BALLY Scribe brogue

PAUL SMITH Striped socks

BOSS BLACK Optical glasses


mAGNET runway

DSQUARED 2

Givenchy

PHOTOGRAPHY: STEFAN KHOO

BOSS ORANGE

Edison Chen: High street meets high fashion

Street Kings

CARTIER Love bracelet in 18k white gold

Appearance: Often snapped with hip-hop inflected gear such as limited edition hoodies and low-slung faded denims, Edison represents the rapid rise of the cool-conscious Chinese youth. With his wax-spiked coif and distinct facial features, this fashion entrepreneur and Cartier junkie has been at the forefront of Asian fashion for a decade.

Jil Sander Printed T-shirt

Runway: Dsquared 2 presented an assortment of urban-layered street wear, such as vivid pullovers that were paired with high topsiders, while Givenchy pumped up sportswear with vibrant birds of paradise motifs. HOW TO: Follow suit and team your treated jeans with leather or suede high-top sneakers and layer a vibrant parka or a hooded jacket over a printed tee when the temperature drops. Keep your accessories simple with minimalist accents such as a stainless steel watch or white gold bracelet.

NIKE Sweet classic canvas sneaker

“I would say my style is based on hip-hop influences, with Japanese finishing on top. I just wear what I feel, instead of wearing the trend.� G-STAR Straight-cut denim jeans

ALEXANDER WANG Leather backpack

GIVENCHY Obsedia belt


LANVIN

ALEXANDER McQueen

ALEXANDER McQueen

Mick Jagger: Subversive British rock ‘n’ roller

Bohemian Rhapsody

Appearance: With his gaunt frame and shaggy mane, Mick Jagger, front man of The Rolling Stones, epitomised the essence of British rock ‘n’ roll in the 1960s. He pranced around, hips gyrating and arms flailing. His eyes were lined with kohl and his ears were pierced. In dramatic contrast to the uniformed Beatles, he often performed in fancy getups that had flamboyant embellishments including feathers, rhinestones and lace. Jumpsuits were undone to the navel and trousers were full.

ALEXANDER McQUEEN Belt LOUIS VUITTON Harold sunglasses

PRADA Document cases

Thomas Sabo Skull pendant with eyelet LANVIN Water snake note pad

Runway: His eccentric panache was felt at Alexander McQueen. A deft concoction of stripes, florals, houndstooth and gingham, reminiscent of a Jagger stage wardrobe, was shown with plenty of anarchic swagger. HOW TO: While his outlandish finesse may be inimitable, his audacious approach can be an indication to break out of a style rut. Experiment with colours, patterns, fabrics and fits to keep your wardrobe fresh and exciting. For a fancy night out, layer a lean ruby velvet smoking jacket over a white shirt and team it with a pair of relaxed trousers. Inject a little pattern with accessories, such as a paisley scarf.

ETRO Printed scarf

CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN James tassled loafer

Etat libre d’ORANGE Jasmin et Cigarette


mAGNET runway

CANALI

DIOR HOMME

YOHJI YAMAMOTO

SHANGHAI TANG Cotton pants BERLUTI Loafers

Orient Express

Giorgio armani Glasses

SHANGHAI TANG Cotton blazer

David Tang: Mao-chic Gentleman

DIOR HOMME Leather cardholder

Appearance: Best known as the founder of contemporary Chinese-chic Shanghai Tang, David Tang is a committed capitalist with an arsenal of businesses, such as clubs, restaurants, flagships and an exclusive distribution for all Cuban cigars in the Asia Pacific. With his tousled, salt-and-pepper streaked hair, he is often spotted in mandarin-collared jackets and loose trousers, mingling with the rich and fablous at parties around the globe. Runway: The East was inspiration for Canali as traditional notch lapels were substituted with Nehru-collars. At Yohji Yamamoto, ethnic wear was reinvented with amplified bagginess that draped nonchalantly off the body. Dior Homme borrowed military button detailing that is clasped at the collar with a metal ring. HOW TO: Partake in the prevalent interest in the East with lightweight linen shirts and straight-cut chinos for free-and-easy Fridays. For casual work days, couple your lightweight cotton suits with unbuttoned bandcollared shirts and loafers.

LANVIN Straw hat

PATEK PHILIPPE Ref. 5496P in platinum case with satinated silvery dial

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Leather belt


mAGNET runway

GUCCI

GUCCI

DOLCE & GABBANA

Tom Ford: Polished dandy

Back to Black

TOM FORD Olivier sunglasses

Appearance: When Tom Ford isn’t strapped into a black suit and tie, he leaves three or four buttons of his bespoke dress shirt undone to reveal a haze of carefully manicured hair. Runway: Sartorial perfection featured heavily in Milan. Dolce & Gabbana constructed traditional monochromatic mohair suits which were sharp yet insouciant. At Gucci, Frida Giannini showed strictly contoured tailoring that seemed to mirror Tom Ford’s glamorous discipline.

YVES SAINT LAURENT Dress shirt

HOW TO: To become the suave man yourself, wear a tailored dark suit with strong shoulders and a defined waist. Slip into lean trousers, finished with cap-toed black lace-ups. If you lack Mr. Ford’s sharp facial architecture, a structured frame will give that illusion. With a spritz of an archetypal scent and leather-strapped timepiece around your wrist, stride forth with elegant poise.

“I don’t wear this black suitwhite shirt combination to be iconic – but because I’m most comfortable in this. Just like girls need to be comfortable in heels before they go out for the first time, a man should wear a suit throughout a normal day.”

Alfred Dunhill Coin diamond cufflinks

Cartier Extra-flat Ballon Bleu watch in white gold and white dial

DOLCE & GABBANA Black tie

TOD’s Patent lace-ups

TOM FORD Grey vetiver


magnet news

FASHION News The latest buzz in the fashion and lifestyle scene. By Aravin Kumar

Boy Wander Ben Sherman’s Englishman takes a journey from Brighton to Tokyo for summer. Combining the label’s traditional British aesthetic of plaids and tailoring with a Japanese sensibility, the collection features utilitarian pieces that evoke laid-back lounges of the 1960s. Warm plaids and Madras checks on shirts collide with the washed pastel tones of chinos and shorts. With the use of laundered fabrics and contrasting prints influenced by Japanese artisans, the collection impresses with its lived-in vintage feel.

Marni Matters Just as we getting over the va va voom sex appeal of Versace, H&M rolls out another designer collaboration for spring, collaborating this time with quirky Italian label Marni. Classed with intellectual designers Miuccia Prada and Rei Kawakubo, Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni’s signature is her ingenious use of eclectic prints and patterns, as well as distinct shapes and materials. For the H&M collection, utilitarian ease prevails with a palette of neutrals, spiked with accents of electric blue and geometric motifs. A cult favourite with industry insiders, this collaboration allows Marni to leap to the forefront of fashion as it caters to a whole new generation of style-hungry youth. The Marni at H&M collection arrives at H&M stores worldwide on March 8, 2012.

79


magnet news

Happy Feet From footwear to belts, Pedro’s spring collection has got the modern man’s back covered. With a neutral palette of sand and brown, the extensive footwear range spans refined lace-ups, easy loafers and casual sneakers. Accessories complement with warm shades and superior grains. The messenger, along with the doctor’s bag, melds utilitarian ease with elegant detailing. Ties and belts are executed in various widths, for both formal and casual occasions.

Fifteen Love Although tennis means sweaty fun, there is no excuse for looking drab while you’re hitting balls on the court. Chanel, with ingenious intuition, has created a lightweight graphite tennis racket with accompanying quilted leather or canvas cover, reminiscent of a classic Chanel 2.55 bag. Team the sleek racket with the tennis ball set that comes with four Chanel-monogrammed balls and a quilted pouch.

Baking Blues G-Star elevates the modern-day staple of denim to new heights with its three dimensional approach. This season, G-Star presents the Arc 3D Loose Tapered Braces as a new development of its famous 3D denim. Elaborately constructed, the Arc pants are fashioned with twisted seams and inseams to create an asymmetric tapered fit around the legs. Taking inspiration from motorcycle riders from the 1930s, the 5620 Dimension pants are another 3D style that is formed by stretching or shrinking seams while stitching and ironing. Mounted on a mannequin, each piece is baked in an oven, permanently transforming it into a 3D product, which moulds to the curvature of the body.

80


Retro Active Inspired by the vibrant bustling streets of Marrakech, Topman delivers an utterly eclectic wardrobe, worthy of a romantic summer escapade. Recalling a retro era, a kaleidoscope of prints and patterns are splashed over a collection consisting of comfy aged knitwear, faded jerseys, peg-leg chinos and midlength shorts. Also taking influence from African tribal patterns, Indonesian batik, intricate tiles as well as wallpaper florals, simple cotton short-sleeved shirts and jersey polos are given a luxurious makeover with a feisty colour palette and subtle details.

Men in Black Expressing yourself sartorially at the work place can be risky business. However, subtle accents in the form of Thomas Sabo’s signature rings or bracelets can break the monotony. In the spirit of rebellious iconography, skulls, crosses and anchors embellish the collection with a greater focus on details. To complement your inner rock star ambitions, slip on an understated bracelet with matt black obsidian beads and miniature silver skulls.

81


magnet news

Fashion Equanimity KOhZO Denim’s Shauket Imam on finding the balance between environmental consciousness and sartorial bliss. By Hafiz Rasid Shauket Imam

How long does the research process take in testing new materials?

‘E

nlightenment meets the Wild West’ is quite possibly the perfect description for Swiss label, KOhZO Denim. Granted, the green movement is on the lips of every fashionista these days, but KOhZO is doing it with a rebellious flair. For the luxury denim label, the key is in the details – the use of rare materials such as hibiscus, washi (a traditional Japanese paper), and even cannabis. Heading this denim revolution, Shauket Imam, founder of KOhZO and self-professed ‘flower child’ successfully melds the loves of his life – fashion, creativity, and nature – into this unique and purposeful collection. Imam made a stop in Singapore to celebrate the debut of his label at Bread & Butter at the Mandarin Gllery.

Men’s Folio: The jeans/denim market is pretty saturated. What is the brand’s position in the market? Shauket Imam: KohZO is a denim brand, but at the same time it’s not focused solely on the use of denim. If you look at it, KOhZO is opening a totally new direction in denim wear, from the use of interesting materials to the styling. It’s always maintaining a very high standard, using my formula, and keeping in mind environmental impact.

82

Usually it takes about two years, because we start from the ground up, from the raw materials to the end product. Each fabric that we use is specifically made for KOhZO, instead of the usual purchasing of readymade fabric. To ensure the best, we don’t really consider what the cost of producing the jeans might be due to the use of the fabric.

Given the popularity of your label with celebrities, do you design with what you think celebrities would wear in mind? When I started in the late 1990s, it was never intended to be a celebrity brand, but it caught on due to my influence, contacts, and friendships. Six years ago, I realised I was in the wrong direction, so I made a correction. I had an epiphany when I was in Africa, so that was when I started to reflect on the brand, and get thinking about designing not just for celebrities but for everyone, so that kept me grounded on the original vision for the brand.

There’s a focus on all-natural and environmentally safe for the brand. Do you consider KOhZO a sustainable brand? Denim is one of the most poisonous fabrics in textile industry. By that I mean it consumes the largest amount of production energy and raw materials, while producing the highest amount of waste. It has become out of control, and we’re not seeing the destruction we’ve caused. So we take it one step at a time, by being responsible. It’s in the philosophy of the brand, but at the same time, I don’t want to tone down the fashion element through being environmentally conscious.


sporty and smart Paul & Shark brings an Italian sensibility to yachting wear for the growing waterfront lifestyle in Singapore. By Hafiz Rasid

I

n its maiden voyage to Southeast Asia, renowned Italian label Paul & Shark anchored on our shores recently and opened its debut boutique on glitzy Scotts Road. The luxury sportswear and lifestyle brand, beloved around the world for its excellent made-in-Italy craftsmanship, joins a line-up of new labels making their debut at Scotts Square. For its Spring/Summer 2012 collection, Paul & Shark takes inspiration from exotic Jaipur; stripes and vivid shades of orange and pink dominate the Yachting collection, taking a page from the vibrant Holi festival celebrated in spring.

The elegant yet casual collection shines with the use of patented garments and high-performance technical materials geared to weather the elements – the waterproof knitwear of the Watershed line, stretch fabrics that shape the total look of the Kipawa Tech line, and the Scoop jacket, an extreme garment made for the bold adventurer to brave extreme conditions, all represent techno-fabric innovations. True to its heritage, the collection also retains its distinct nautical lifestyle DNA, a signature of the brand since the 1970s. Paul&Shark is located at #01-08, Scotts Square, Tel: 6636 3892

83


magnet essential

The Social Network Our stylist Wei Lun witnesses how Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring/Summer 2012 collection was overwhelmingly influenced by social media

“We’re in the mood to experiment, to rework tailoring, making it modern and innovative.” – Domenico Dolce

Dolce & Gabbana S/S 2012 runway

I

t amazes me what social media can achieve today, basically it amounts to a new religion among some front row guests at major shows, not to mention inspiring the Spring/ Summer 2012 collection by Dolce & Gabbana. I could not quite digest the idea immediately but then again, as one of the most successful Italian fashion houses, Dolce & Gabbana is no stranger to controversies and being vision-forward. As one of the first brands to boast live digital coverage online, the duo has seemingly made a metaphoric reference to social networking with a netting motif in the collection. Made of fabric or leather and wrought in different ways, the nettings are casually thrown over T-shirts, appear as mesh-like veils over shorts and pants, and pop up as leather-net jumpsuits; all boyish allure, sexy and athletic at the same time.

84


Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce

The Dolce & Gabbana S/S 2012 regional press day was hosted in Hong Kong

“It’s all a game, with new rules every season.” – Stefano Gabbana

On the other hand, the designer duo has also revisited expert tailoring but with a twist in details. So crisp cotton shirts feature subtle jagged collar trims and slits, and single-button and lapelfree blazers are pressed paper-thin. They are a witty sartorial vindication of Domenico Dolce’s statement on the collection: “We’re in the mood to experiment, to rework tailoring, making it modern and innovative.”

85


magnet news

Light and Lean Kevin Carrigan, ck Calvin Klein’s global creative director presented a lean and colourful Spring/Summer collection in Hong Kong for the region’s press and buyers. By Daniel Goh

86


87


magnet notebook

Through My Lens The fashion photography scene here, as seen through the idealistic eyes of up-and-coming fashion photographer Callum Aldrin Smith

T

he first editorial spread I did was for Amica – it was horrible. But I guess on hindsight, with anything that we’ve done, there’s always room for improvement. I think if I had more control over the concept and direction of the shoot, it would have made a difference. I suppose when working with a team of people, you have to be as diplomatic as possible and challenge yourself by applying each team member’s opinions and ideas to the shoot. It can be frustrating because you have to compromise on the idea that you wish to express. That takes a certain getting used to, because working independently on a project allows you to have full control. I guess the trick is to try and adapt to a certain style when you have to, because you can never choose when a job comes in, or whether you’re in the mood for it at that point of time. Of course, going solo has its drawback too; your ideas may be out of touch or be misunderstood, but that’s the price for speaking your mind. I do find that music serves as a constant source of inspiration and motivation for me and others in my trade. For example, the work of photographer Brendan Zhang, has paid some wonderful tribute to iconic figures in music such as Marc Almond, and Echo & The Bunnymen, in the context of fashion photography. Even though I haven’t been around long enough to make a judgement on the fashion photography scene in Singapore, I see a break in the usual perspective in Zhang’s work. It’s a sense of humour that I admire in his work. Because I consider myself a relatively newcomer, I’m fine with experimenting with the limitations and restrictions imposed on me by clients, otherwise my work gets repetitive. Personally, I feel that there’s a lack of distinctive style amongst the photographers here.

‘‘

I rely heavily upon creating a scene that doesn’t physically exist which opens a world of images that is only limited by the ideas that I have. 88

’’


As long as your style is strong and is genuine to yourself, an image commissioned by others will still be recognisable as yours. I rely heavily upon creating a scene that doesn’t physically exist so that opens a world of images that is only limited by the ideas that I have. From experience, I would say a bigger budget helps in accomplishing bigger ideas. I’m very inspired by theatre sets and especially of those from Terry Gilliam’s films; I long to be able to manifest that picture in my head without being constrained by what is practical. Right now I can accomplish that goal by means of digital manipulation; I guess that’s where technology comes in handy. That is why people who inspire my craft are painters, such as Sam Weber and James Jean, rather than photographers. Both express the images in their head so vividly, and I’ve been attempting to emulate their style with photography by means of digital manipulation and collages, but I still feel that I have a long way to go before I reach that standard of expression. Of course, painting and photography are two different mediums, but I still feel there’s a lot more to be worked on with the medium I’ve chosen to work in. But it gets rather frustrating and exhausting to be stuck in your perspective for too long and it would be amazing to be able to understand and see the same things from another culture’s perspective. Given a chance, I’d definitely like to venture forth beyond the Singapore market, and Japan would be my chosen destination. The Japanese are like the weird guy in school who behaves curiously and keeps to himself a lot. Their culture is that of growing up with a different standard of etiquette, language, and formalities – so there’s a form of repression of individual expression; but that results in their ideas being unique, which I find fascinating.

89


FILL IN THE BLANC Silvery platinum wig, pale skin and cryptic words: Andy Warhol’s famously blank expression was the perfect foil for his colourful art. This season, white-clad timepieces are the perfect canvas for the latest colourful, cartoon clothes

LOUIS VUITTON

Tambour Diving II in steel Case with white rubber strap Outfit: PRADA Cotton print shirt, silk print scarf RAY BAN Acetate optical shades (worn throughout)

GIRARD PERREGAUX

1996 Automatic in rose gold with leather strap

Accessory: JO MALONE Red roses cologne


CHOPARD

L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon in titatnium with white alligator strap Outfit: PRADA Cotton print shirt with crystal embellishment, cotton embellished drawstring hat


CHANEL

J12 White 42mm in steel and white high-tech ceramic bracelet Outfit: PRADA Cotton print shirt, silk print scarf MARNI FOR H&M Cotton print shirt


MONTBLANC

TimeWalker Chronograph Automatic in red gold with white alligator strap Outfit: PRADA Cotton print shirt, cotton print jacket


OMEGA

Seamaster Planet Ocean 42mm in ceramic with white rubber strap Outfit: PRADA Cotton print shirt with crystal embellishment, silk print scarf

BAUME & MERCIER Hampton in 18K rose gold with leather bracelet

Accessory: PIAGET Limelight party cocktail ring


FRANCK MULLER Cintree Curvex Vintage in rose gold with white alligator strap

PHOTOGRAPHY Ivanho Harlim and Shysilia Novita STYLING Wei Lun GROOMING Ark Lin using L’oreal Professionel MODEL Jasper / Ave

Outfit: PRADA Cotton print shirt with crystal embellishment


magnet time

hip and cheerful

A kaleidoscope of boldcoloured watches built for play. By Hilman Nasir

Hip-Hop 40mm collection in plastic casing with rubber strap

Citizen Citizen Eco-Drive Super Titanium in titanium casing with rubber strap

Nixon Rubber Re-Rub in full silicone rubber strap and case

French Connection Fall/Winter collection in plastic casing with rubber strap

Puma Slide in full silicone rubber strap and case EDC Military in full silicone rubber strap and case

96


Marc by Marc Jacobs Rock watch in stainless steel case with rose goldtone plating and amethyst plastic topring on siliconwrapped stainless steel bracelet

ODM JDCD Phantime in PC case with transparent lens, with nylon bracelet

ToyWatch Metallic Collection in polycarbonate casing with metal strap

Casio G-Shock GR8900A in aluminum bezel casing with resin strap

Swatch New Gent in plastic casing with silicone strap

97


magnet time

TONE UP!

Athletic and architectural designs add muscle to ck Watch & Jewelry’s latest. By Alvin Wong The Cogent blends Calvin Klein’s trademark lessis-more design with architecture exuberance

100


Boasting 100m water resistance, the diver’s watch performs as well as it looks

ck Watch’s all-black dress watches with PVD-coated cases and silicon straps are primed for a night out

For office-appropriate accompaniments, look no further than the Accent and Masculine

101


magnet time

Watch News The latest tickings in time. By Aaron Tan

DeBethune Dream Watch IV You might be reminded of the LeDix mobile telecommunications device engineered and created by the Celsius X VI II company that incorporates a tourbillon clock in its mechanism when you see the DeBethune Dream Watch IV for the first time. But DeBethune’s is a completely different animation, it is an iPhone 4S shield that is a tribute to Steve Jobs. It is also the high-tech equivalent to DeBethune’s earlier DBM concept that features an ultra-thin mechanical pocket watch encased in a leather-bound case for the iPhone 4. Sculpted in mirror-polished and bead-blasted titanium, the 4S case of the Dream Watch IV sports a futuristic spaceship-inspired design, functioning as avant-garde armour for the 4S iPhone as well as protecting the user from the electromagnetic waves emitted by the device. The pocket watch with its shimmering blued titanium dial sparkling with white gold and diamond stars, and engraved sterling silver discs displaying the hours at 6 o’clock, and the minutes at 12 o’clock, stares out from what appears to be the cockpit of the 4S case while artistically referencing the cosmos. But for the practical man anxious about the day when the 4S is eclipsed by new generation versions with a change in dimensions, DeBethune is ready for the scenario. So the pocket watch can be easily detached from its docking pod in the 4S cover, and converted into a wristwatch by implanting it into an additional outer titanium case with floating lugs and alligator strap (all are constituents of this model); a versatile transformation that also allows the owner to appreciate it worn on the wrist or on his 4S at a whim. Fitted with the Calibre DB 2005 mechanical hand-wound movement with self-regulating twin barrel with six days of power reserve, silicon/platinum balance wheel with flat terminal curve, and triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, the watch has a 42.6mm diameter and is 10.6 mm thick. The timepiece and 4S cover comes in a limited edition of 12 sets.

102

Cartier d’Art Polar Bear enamel watch Part of the Cartier d‘Art series featuring animals with lifelike feral charm, the Cartier d’Art Polar Bear Enamel work evokes the poetry of craftsmanship, drawing on patience and research, expertise and artisanal secrets. The translucent enamel on the dial of this timepiece plays with the light, suspended between fragile borders that are as delicate and elegant as a pencil line. In the absence of sudden contrasts or interruptions, the gaze is drawn from one enamel cell to the next and to each individual facet is the brightening sky sparkles with tiny flashes of silver placed one by one as stars. It continues by exploring the back of the polar bear and lingers on its head, before dropping down to the ice itself.


One Man EXCELLENCE Wilhelm Rieber handcrafts every single part in his eponymous tourbillons

Omega James Bond 007 50th Anniversary Collector’s Piece To celebrate 50 years of James Bond films, Omega has released a special update of the incredibly popular Seamaster Diver 300m James Bond watch which has been worn by 007 in every adventure since Golden Eye. The James Bond 007 50th Anniversary Collector’s Piece is available in two sizes, 41mm and 36.25mm. The cases of the watches are made of stainless steel and they feature ceramic bezel rings with diving scales in matte chromium nitride with the number ‘50’ in red as a reminder that the watch is celebrating a very special anniversary. Each version of the watch is presented on a classic brushed and polished Omega-patented screwand-pin stainless steel bracelet. The James Bond 007 50th Anniversary Collector’s Piece will prove irresistible to fans of 007 and to anyone interested in elegant, distinctive timepieces. Its 41 mm version is produced in a limited edition of 11,007 pieces, and the 36.25 mm version in an edition of 3,007 pieces.

Descended from generations of watchmakers, tourbillon maker Wilhelm Rieber grew up surrounded by watches. Quite the family prodigy, even his grandmother noticed his obvious talent for watchmaking since he was a child and his future was cast in stone. A fervent admirer of legendary master watchmakers of the past, Wilhelm considers the tourbillon the paragon in watch making, and doing so by hand as the highest level of mechanical artistry a watchmaker can attain. So it is not surprising he also started making his first tourbillon watch when he opened his studio for repairing antique watches in 1984. Naturally, Wilhelm insisted on making every single part himself by hand, and it took him four years to complete that first tourbillon. Wilhelm claims that people can evince his passion when they see his tourbillon watches because of the energy and self he has poured into their creation. Each one takes him an average of six months to make, and he personally chronicles every step in crafting the tourbillon from the beginning to the end with detailed pictures that are compiled into a book that is presented to the buyer and owner of the watch. Admirers and famous clients such as Michael Schumacher and KISS band member Eric Singer have described Wilhelm’s tourbillons as magnificent and impossible. But Wilhelm continues to improve on his techniques, refusing to rest on his 28 years of experience and expertise. He is also as committed to staying an independent watchmaker: “The reason why I will never join a large factory and make 10 watches a year is because I don’t know what will become of my watches. I might lose the very essence of my watches. I would rather make only two watches a year that show ‘me’ in the watch than 10,000 that show none of me.” This personal integrity, no doubt, contributes to the artistic value of an entirely handcrafted Wilhelm Rieber tourbillon. Wilhelm Rieber tourbillons are avilable at Dickson Watch.

103


“I don’t design clothes. I design dreams.” – Ralph Lauren

“If they want to see me, here

I am. If they want to see my clothes, open my closet and show them my suits.” – Albert Einstein

“Fashion is what you adopt when you don’t know who you are.”

– Quentin Crisp

MODE


“Clothes make the man. Naked people have little or no influence on society.” Art produces ugly “things which frequently

– Mark Twain

become beautiful with time. Fashion, on the other hand, produces beautiful things which always become ugly with time.” – Jean Cocteau

Fashion is ‘‘architecture. It is a matter of proportions.’’ – Coco Chanel


O PHOTOGRAPHY Mark Law STYLING Daniel Goh

Ko Chen Tung, Taiwan’s hottest new actor, has just released his debut album, certain to hit the Asian shores like a tsunami of bubble tea. In this exclusive, the breakout boy star shares his take on fame and his meteoric rise to stardom. By Marcus Soh

Boy !


CK CALVIN KLEIN

Soft nappa zip front outerwear, cotton jersey sleeveless top


CK CALVIN KLEIN

Reflective suiting jacket with matching pants, woven diamond pique long sleeved shirt


Alfred Dunhill

Charcoal wool suit worn with white cotton shirt and cotton scarf

‘‘

I am a minimalist. I tend to go for one single tone; I don’t like wearing too many colours.

’’


‘‘

Showbiz is not all about the glitz and glamour, a certain amount of hard work and dedication has to be put in as well.

’’


CK CALVIN KLEIN

Mercerized high twist jersey crew neck, cotton jacket, cotton pants and lace-ups


CK CALVIN KLEIN Soft nappa zip front outerwear, cotton jersey sleeveless top

HUBLOT

Hublot King Power Oceanographic 4000 in titanium


I

f getting nominated for a Golden Horse award is a feat to applaud, try winning the award on your first nomination. That is what Taiwanese actor Ko Chen Tung managed to bag on the night of the Golden Horse awards just last year for his stellar performance in You Are The Apple of My Eye. Awarded the Best Newcomer, the 21-year-old went from zero to hero instantly, making headlines overnight. Playing the role of a high school prankster who harbours an undying crush on his classmate, Ko garnered himself a legion of fans throughout the Chinese diaspora. Ko’s big screen success is followed by the release of his debut album Be Yourself last November; and Ko has been the busiest young man since, travelling around the region to promote the album, of which this interview and photoshoot is part. It’s no surprise then that when the tall and lean actor first stepped into the studio, signs of fatigue wore over his pallor. Wearing a black cap with a black leather bomber jacket over a white tee, he slumped into his seat after an exchange of vague pleasantries, and instantly zoned out. I was later informed that they had come straight from the airport after touching down; they came straight from Kuala Lumpur via Penang (with a quick dinner in Gurney Drive of which details are fuzzy). “The travelling wears me out,” chimes Ko as he sits impatiently while waiting for his hair and make-up to be done, periodically checking for Facebook updates on his iPhone. Once prepped and rested in the makeup chair, the restlessness in him quickly dissipated, and he was ready for the camera.

Men’s Folio: What are your new projects? Ko Chen Tung: I’m in the midst of filming two movies, one is a love story filmed in Taiwan, while the other is a Hong Kong production which will end by April. I actually took days off school to finish up my promotional work for the album, after which I will head back to resume school at Taipei University.

In this album, what was the message you were trying to convey? It is titled Be Yourself, to encourage people to strive for what they believe in, and to have confidence in themselves. The songs mainly revolve around love, but mostly I want to inspire people to say what they feel deep down inside, to express themselves without inhibitions and simply to be themselves. It is akin to the themes in the movie, You are the Apple of my Eye.

How does winning such an important award for your first movie make you feel? To be honest, I really wasn’t expecting it. Of course, I am very happy to know that my first piece of work received such recognition from critics and audiences. It feels really good knowing that the hard work and effort that you have put in is being acknowledged. I really have to thank my lucky stars.

Now that you have experienced both acting and singing, which do you prefer? I have always preferred acting to singing. However, after all the promotional work and autograph sessions, getting the passionate responses that I have from fans has boosted my confidence in singing, and it has become something I want to do well in. To be frank, I have always enjoyed singing, but to do it in a recording studio is a little different, it takes much more than just a good voice.

Do you think it will pose a challenge that you were credited for your acting at such an early stage of your career? Of course, there will be greater expectation to do well, and I guess that’s where the pressure comes in. It also reinforces the fact that showbiz is not all about the glitz and glamour, a certain amount of hard work and dedication has to be put in as well.

Tell us something about yourself that fans don’t already know. I still have the child in me, I like to tease and do stuff that people would not expect, like pranks etc. It makes me happy to put a smile on everyone’s face. I think it’s important to learn how to be happy in life, and not to take things too seriously. Having said that, I only behave in this manner in front of my close friends.

Was the transition from acting to singing easy for you? These fields are very different for me. Acting requires more expression, movement and preparation before engaging the role while singing is only about using your voice. However, for a movie, I don’t have to act in front of the audience, I can retake a particular scene if it is not ideal. But for singing, I have to be able to perform well in front of a crowd, I cannot retake. In a way, the pressure is different.

Do you have any immediate plans for the future? I am pretty spontaneous, I will accept whatever opportunities come along my way. When I first started filming, I told myself I need to be happy in order to enjoy what I am doing. When we wrapped up the production, I was very happy as the entire production team was satisfied with the filming, and to me it was a success. Perhaps my plan for the future would be to continue being happy doing what I do.


CK CALVIN KLEIN

Cotton long sleeved shirt, surf print reversible outerwear, slim tie and cotton pants


‘‘

I have become more confident, getting more accustomed to meeting new people and even to being in front of the press. As for my personal life, I am still adapting to the attention. Having rumours in the tabloids are all part and parcel of showbiz and I guess it is inevitable.

’’

STYLING ASSISTANT Wei Lun HAIR ARK LIN using L’oreal Professionel GROOMING Lolent Lee using M.A.C Cosmetics


THE SCHOLAR PRINCE Refined and elegant tailoring with oriental inflections reigned at the collections this season in looks that recalled the last emperor Pu Yi PHOTOGRAPHY Ivanho Harlim and Shysilia Novita STYLING Wei Lun


DIOR HOMME Cotton long vest, cotton jacket, Z ZEGNA Cotton pants, HERMES Leather high cut shoe, PRADA Cotton drawstring hat, CHANEL French cane, TART Celluloid

round optical frame


LOUIS VUITTON Silk shirt with matching pants, MARNI FOR H&M Silk print scarf, SALVATORE FERRANGAMO Cotton drawstring hat, TART Celluloid round optical frame, GUCCI Leathers shoes


SHANGHAI TANG

Cotton jacket, PRADA Silk Scarf, TART Celluloid round optical frame


DOLCE & GABBANA Cotton pants, SHANGHAI TANG Cotton jacket, KAME MANNON Acetate round optical frame, Z ZEGNA Leather shoes


DIOR HOMME Cotton long vest jacket, cotton pants, EMPORIO ARMANI Cotton print shirt, DITA X THOM BROWNE Acetate round optical frame, HERMES Leather belt


HERMES Cotton shirt, cotton pants, leather high cut shoe, SHANGHAI TANG Cotton jacket, PRADA Silk scarf, Tart Celluoid frames


SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Cotton shirt, cotton pants, t,

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Leather shoe, PRADA Cotton drawstring hat, RODENSTOCK

Metal round optical frame, Cotton long coat (Stylist’s own)


SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

Cotton shirt, cotton pants, MARNI FOR H&M Silk print scarf, LUNOR Acetate round optical frame

HAIR Ark Lin using L’oreal Professionel STYLING ASSISTANT Hilman Nasir MODELS Arekusu / Looque


mode character

AN AMERICAN IN PARIS Celebrating his 15th anniversary at Louis Vuitton with a retrospective exhibition in Paris, creative director Marc Jacobs describes his artistic journey at the world’s foremost luxury house. By Aravin Kumar

M

orphing from his lumpy sweaters and shaggy shoulder-length hair of his grunge days to toned, tanned and tattooed, Marc Jacobs’s personal transformative journey mirrors that of Louis Vuitton’s creative reinvention. When he took on the reigns as creative director in 1997, Louis Vuitton was not the trend-starting French maison that it is today, but a staid handbag maker with an established heritage. Introducing ready-to-wear lines for men and women as well as accessories, footwear and fine jewellery, Marc Jacobs transfigured the business into a multi-billion dollar household name. Called the Andy Warhol of our times, his creative collaborations with the likes of fine artists, Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami and Richard Prince, merged the sizzling worlds of art and fashion to define a new era of luxury. Fashion imitated art, as the chosen artists deconstructed the famed Monogram to produce ‘It’ handbags that were slung as arm trophies on women all around the world. His shows for his eponymous label in New York as well as Louis Vuitton in Paris have become the theatrical highlights of every fashion season. This year, he looks back at the 15 years at Louis Vuitton with an exhibition that opens at Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris on March 9 (running until September 16). The exhibition will see an indepth parallel analysis of two distinct personalities in fashion history: Louis Vuitton’s time-honoured travel legacy will be presented alongside the museum’s 19th century fashion and accessories collection on the first floor. On the second floor, Marc Jacobs’s creations and artistic collaborations of the 15 years at Louis Vuitton will be retraced. For Jacobs, this would seem to be a pivotal moment in his career; He pauses to reflect on his situation on top of the luxury pile.

“The most important thing to me about the Louis Vuitton Monogram is that it is identifiable – besides the quality, it is the status of it, the recognition it brings, that makes people want to have it.” 126


Men’s Folio: Were you surprised when they first approached you for Louis Vuitton? Marc Jacobs: Of course I was surprised! I was shocked. I was surprised on lots of different levels. Firstly, I was American. Secondly, I was surprised that Louis Vuitton was even considering fashion. They had always been known for one thing, and here they were deciding that they wanted to move into all these different categories. Do you look back on the 15 years behind you as an archive? It is not something we think about before we start a collection, but during the creative process, we can be reminded of things we did in the past that struck a chord with lots of different types of customers. We never simply roll out a piece and redo it. Rather, we think what intrinsic quality it had that made it so appealing to so many people. The answer is often a certain sex appeal without vulgarity, so we keep that in mind as we design.

momentum. Sometimes, you just have to clear your head and get out to see other things. It is very important to be nourished. I love to go to museums and galleries. I like to see theatre, film, dance – anything creative. It doesn’t promise you inspiration, but it nourishes your creative soul, and that’s good. Respect and disrespect characterise your creative approach. Can you explain? It’s logical. How can things move forward if you never question them or challenge them? I can think of examples in art, or music, or film. Change is a great and horrible thing, and people love it or hate it at the same time. Without change, however, you just don’t move. I think we have been very successful at creating a parallel universe. You walk into a Louis Vuitton store, and all the luxury and savoir-faire of making a trunk is there, but you also know that people do not travel with trunks anymore. Therefore, there has to be something more. I was not brought in to create the new version of the trunk; I was brought in to appeal to people who carry Louis Vuitton on the streets or on the red carpet – the world we live in today. So, when I say that the most important thing to me about the Louis Vuitton Monogram is that it is identifiable, it is because – besides the craftsmanship, besides the quality – it is the status of it, the recognition it brings, that makes people want to have it.

“I like to see theatre, film, dance – anything creative. It doesn’t promise you inspiration, but it nourishes your creative soul, and that’s good.”

Has your vision of the Louis Vuitton person evolved over time? So much has changed since the beginning. In any creative process – and particularly when, as in the case of Louis Vuitton, there was no ready-to-wear heritage – you always need to find out what you can play with and how you can play with it. Time plays a part in that. I personally am a big believer in evolution rather than revolution. You cannot get to point Z without going through X and Y. We couldn’t have arrived where we are today without having gone through all those years that came before. You need time to invent a ready-to-wear archive. It cannot be done in a season. How do you work with your creative teams at Louis Vuitton? As well as the ready-to-wear team, we have separate creative teams for shoes and bags. Basically, we all work on everything together and feed off each other’s ideas. A shoe can inspire a dress, just as a dress can inspire a bag, and vice versa. Although we all have our separate workspaces, we are on the same floor, so it is easy to share and to communicate. I think that, when we do our job best, it is because there is some kind of connection between all the designs. We tend to relook constantly at each of the products as we design the new ones, which keeps the whole collection unified. How does the creative process start when designing a collection? In the beginning, there is an idea, but the road to that idea is not always so clear. The clarity comes from doing and making, trying and retrying. I have been told by some people that I actually do know from the beginning what the collection is going to be, but I myself cannot see that. I really believe that it is the process, not the initial idea that creates the end result.

Do you wait for the idea to unfold by its own? Luckily, there are a lot of people around me who, maybe, on those days have ideas. It’s that blank paper thing. There are days when I feel paralysed and think, “Oh, there’s no big idea”, but sometimes a little idea gains

Regarding your collaborations with artists, you already knew Stephen Sprouse, so it must have been quite an organic process to get him involved. Was it the same with Takashi Murakami and Richard Prince? Each one was different. I knew Richard before and had loved his work for a long time, so I asked him to collaborate. For Takashi, I had just been to an exhibition of his work at the Cartier Foundation which had greatly impressed me, and I started to recall all the articles I had seen about him. I didn’t know him as a person, but I just called up and said, “Would you like to come over and talk about doing something?” It was an impulsive thing, really, but it worked because he was interested and we got along. Each of the collaborations was truly an exchange of creative ideas between two people who do different products and have different talents – it was a great coming together of different media. Did you choose these particular artists because you thought they were complementary to the Louis Vuitton universe, or was it more antagonistic? No, it was impulsive. Obviously, I had reasons for choosing them, but ultimately they were personal things, and I just believed – especially after speaking to each of them separately, after sensing their enthusiasm – that it would be fine. I have certainly spoken to other people with whom it was clear after one meeting that the collaboration would not work. Obviously, they shall remain nameless. If a person says to me, “Well, you can use my artwork”, then I am not interested in the collaboration. I do not want to be given a couple of paintings, or photocopies of paintings, and be told, “Do what you want with them”.

127


TOD’s Suede safari shirt, Bally Cotton shorts, Chanel Straw hat


Sands & Sensibility From sand to olive, nostalgia-laden dusty hues are ideal for unwinding under the summer heat PHOTOGRAPHY Mark Law STYLING Jeremy Tan


Dolce & Gabanna Cotton suit with pleated pants, HermEs Calfskin leather double-strap bracelet worn as necklace, cotton knit tank-top and suede sandals, CHANEL Straw hat


PRADA Wool checked

suit jacket with shorts,

ck calvin klein Cotton tank-top, GUCCI

Leather derby shoes,

Chanel Straw hat


(Left) GUCCI Wool knit v-neck pullover (Right) GUCCI Wool knit pullover worn with wool/leather blazer and cotton pants


(Left) LOUIS VUITTON Silk Suit with draw-strings pants worn with cotton tee (Right) BALLY Cotton Safari shirt, PRADA Wool checked flat-front pants, TOD’s Leather loafers


(Left) Boss Selection Wool suit, Boss ORANGE Wool scarf (Right) Alfred Dunhill Cotton tee worn with wool coat, CK Calvin Klein Cotton flat-front pants, HERMES Calfskin leather bracelet


HermEs Leather cardigan, Boss Selection Cotton trench coat,

Dior Homme Cotton linen pants

HAIR Vanessa Choo @ Next Salon using L’oréal Professionnel STYLING ASSISTANT Diana Pan Pan PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS Tristan Yau, Brandon Peters & Stewart MODELS Shuan Autault / AVE, Thiago Copetti / Upfront


mode character

Under My Skin Local designer Ethan Koh builds a name for himself with his line of exotic leather accessories. By Aravin Kumar

L

uxury is in the DNA of Singaporean designer Ethan Koh who was born into a family with a predisposition for minute details, excellent craftsmanship and exceptional quality. His great grandfather was a trader who learnt the art of leather tanning from the British in the early 1900s. This expertise was passed down to Heng Long International, a tanning conglomerate that today supplies luxury houses all over the world. A fourth generation leather artisan, the 24-year-old Koh has forged a name for himself, for his Ethan K line of exotic leather accessories, that is sold at Harrods in London, and upmarket boutiques in Moscow and Paris. Men’s Folio: Could you tell us a little about your background? Ethan Koh: I’ve worked at my father’s tannery on the leather selection team since I was a teenager. I’ve also been very fortunate to have undergone internships at Hermes as well as other luxury houses. Observing the workshops at my father’s tannery as a child, which was at the back of our home, then working there, inspired me to become a designer using precious materials. I admire my father for his great entrepreneurial skills as he managed to run one of the top five tanneries in the world, supplying to the likes of Hermes and Prada. I also admire my brother, Albert Koh, for his passionate work and knowledge of luxury skins. As the operations manager, he enabled me to realise my grandiose ideas.

Describe the highlights in the meteoric five years after creating the clutch for you mother in 2006. My proudest moment so far has definitely been my collaboration with Harrods. There have also been two other milestones; namely the unveiling of the Ethan-K Wildlife Odyssey Collection in July last year and the launching of the brand in Tsum, Moscow last December. The launch of exotic leather accessories for men in September last year was also a highlight. Although you were born and raised in Singapore, you have chosen Mayfair as your personal and business base. Why is this so? Mayfair is an area in London known for bringing together people from all over the world. The elegant women that walk the streets of Mayfair are my inspiration. Describe the process of your bespoke service. One of my clients asked me to create a crocodile bag for his wife, in an olive green that matched his leather sofa. I travelled to their home to analyse the colour and texture of the furniture in order to create the colour they wanted. In addition to the leather’s colour, the client has creative control over minute decisions from the type and colour of the lining, metal closures, and zippers to a personalised name embossment and date of production, making the article a truly personal creation.

When did you first decide to pursue a career in fashion? Aged 18, I designed my first bag inspired by the Alstroemeria flower, utilising the ultra-luxurious skins of the Niloticus and Porosus crocodiles. The first bag I ever created was a clutch for my mother and I took great pride and pleasure in seeing carry the bag. Her friends spotted the bag and that’s when I started to think I might have the beginnings of a business.

What projects are you currently working on? The Ethan K brand is planning to expand geographically. Moreover, a new collection will be launched in July 2012, to include more exciting clasps in semi-precious stones. Later this year, a short film will also be produced to show the Ethan K heritage, and we will be moving to our new Ethan K ‘Private-Salon’ in Knightsbridge, London.

You studied in London, at both Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion. What made you decide to make that shift overseas? I find London very inspirational and cosmopolitan, because of its culture and the fact that it’s one of the world’s most stylish capitals. It was the ideal place for me to grow as a designer. Both Central Saint Martins and London College of Fashion are considered the best fashion schools worldwide so that’s a no-brainer.

As a young entrepreneurial designer, what challenges do you face? Starting my own business at the age of 23 means that I have to be very entrepreneurial. With a limited budget, creating luxurious objects is a challenge. However, I come from a family with artisanal know how, so exotic skin is in my DNA, and my family has been very supportive.

How did the experience of studying abroad mould you as a designer? I am inspired by many things – architecture and interiors, the people I meet, and also my personal heritage. My debut collection, launched in January 2011, drew directly upon inspirational people and places – especially the Art Deco embellishments in Mayfair, where I live. I was also very fortunate to meet the many individuals from different countries, like Ukraine, Saudi Arabia and Russia, who are now my friends and ambassadors for the brand.

138

What are you looking forward to achieve in the future? I hope to have a beautiful Ethan K boutique in each of the world’s major fashion destinations. This is just the beginning of what I hope will be a very exciting, long journey. We are not rushing to make more; instead we are concentrating on producing the finest quality.


121

PHOTOGRAPHY Cher Him

“We are not rushing to make more; instead we are concentrating on producing the finest quality.”


Basic Instinct Alfred Dunhill redefines indispensable pieces from a man’s wardrobe PHOTOGRAPHY Cher Him STYLING Daniel Goh

Looking put together after a long haul flight can be a hard task. Cover up in a luxurious suede blouson and there wouldn’t be any worries about wrinkled shirts. ALFRED DUNHILL

Brown goat leather Lewis blouson


When the cold wind blows, skip the

hoodies, and layer a wool cardigan for a rugged yet polished impression. ALFRED DUNHILL

Grey wool shawl collar cardigan, grey wool/silk birdseye trousers


Lightweight scarves add a little dash of colour and texture. ALFRED DUNHILL

Grey V-neck striped sweater, blue linen cotton striped scarf


A fine gauge V-neck knit beneath a grey blazer would be the sharp answer when it gets chilly. ALFRED DUNHILL

Grey cotton and wool mixed blend, seasonal blazer, navy cashmere V-neck knitwear, white shirt, blue cotton jeans, brown Windsor messenger


The grey suit is infinitely cooler compared to its black counterpart. Classic and versatile, it always works with a white shirt and dark tie for the office. ALFRED DUNHILL

Grey suit, white shirt, navy regulated grid woven tie

(Left) Boss Selection Wool suit, Boss ORANGE Wool scarf (Right) Alfred Dunhill Cotton tee worn with wool coat, CK Calvin Klein Cotton flat-front pants, HERMES Calfskin leather bracelet


It’s not always sun and games in

summer. With plenty of showers ahead, invest in a proper waterproof coat that would go over anything from a sartorial blazer to a casual tee. ALFRED DUNHILL

STYLING ASSISTANTS Aravin Kumar & Hilman Nasir MODEL Nick / AVE GROOMING Ilyazid Ilias using M.A.C Cosmetics and Schwarzkopf

Navy top coat, blue cotton jeans


N G S I S W E D LLO & FOESIRE S D REAM D LE AB G L I N A AV LEADI S & E AT TOR NDS S OK SSTA O B EW N

15426.M8-Form Ad.S.indd 1

2/17/12 4:57 PM


MIX It’s all in the mix:

interiors, design, grooming, travel, gadgets, parties fun fashion!


MIX renew

grooming News The latest lotions and potions that make facing the world that much easier. By Daniel Goh

A Full Report

Shea Goodness

The products in L’Occitane’s shea butter range boast an exceptional concentration of shea butter, a luxury ingredient that is full of vitamins A and E, and fatty acids that help to strengthen cell membranes, and soften and nourish skin. The Ultra Rich Face Cream ($70) is for intensive nourishing, suitable for dry to very dry skins. This comes in a new-look jar that drew inspiration from the grain storage huts of the Bukina Faso, where shea nuts are harvested. For sensitive skin and those fragile with age, the Ultra-Gentle Moisturiser ($61) is recommended as it is ultragentle, hypoallergenic and fragrance-free, perfect for using with the Ultra-Gentle Cleansing milk ($35) a silky smooth cleanser which includes soothing liquorice extract. Each of these three items contain shea butter concentrate as well as a combination of natural sugars that shield skin from damaging climatic factors.

148

There’s nothing more ruinous to a man’s looks and self-esteem than the inevitable thinning of hair, known, sadly, as male-pattern balding. Luckily for you, there’s a new barrage of products aimed at preventing (or at least slowing down) this tragic condition. Otherwise, no fabulous outfit, or bulky status watch can save you. Aveda’s new Invati line is formulated to combat thinning hair – naturally. This is a 97 per cent naturally derived, botanically active, three-step system (shampoo, conditioner, revitalises) said to reduce hair loss if used continuously for three weeks. Ingredients include wintergreen, millet seed, milk thistle, sugar beet, turmeric, ginseng and other extracts. Aveda products are now available at the first-ever Aveda Experience Centre in Southeast Asia, which has opened right here at Ngee Ann City (#B1-32A), where you can experience and bring home Aveda’s extensive range of products. There’s more care for your hair. Medavita, a pioneer in phytocosmetics, has a new range that seeks to treat and prevent male hair loss. The Medavita Anagen Fase Shampoo Homme ($30) is a fully organic formula (ginger, turmeric, cinnamon) which stimulates hair growth, micro-circulation and overall volume. Use this with the Medavita Lotion Concentree Homme ($110) spray serum which you can massage into your scalp. You can buy the range from selected salons. If these lotions and potions aren’t enough for you to hold on to your roots, you can now pop botanical hair loss supplements. This isn’t new exactly, but a classic product which made headlines way back in 1986. Phytophanere Dietary Supplement is now available in a handy 60 capsule bottle ($48, Unity Stores), which will see you through a month. The pills contain borage oil, fish oil, brewer’s yeast and wheat germ oil amongst other healthful ingredients which not only benefit your hair but also your skin and nails.


Duncan Napier

Belif in Singapore Joining the already overly-crowded cosmetics market in Singapore, Belif, a 150 year old Scottish cosmetic brand, opened its flagship store at Wisma Atria in January. Belif is a range of gender-neutral formulas that contain herbal ingredients, prescribed and dispensed by traditional British herbalists from recipes crafted by Scottish herbal clinic, Napiers. The entire line comprises 44 products, including star products, The True Cream and Hungarian Water Essence, a body line, and a specific men’s line. The brand name Belif originated from the English word ‘believe’ and stands for the ‘trust’ and ‘belief’ that the brand hopes to deliver to its consumers through ingredients, formula, and quality assurance. Belif was conceived from the herbal recipes and philosophy of Duncan Napier, a respected botanist and herbalist who opened the first herbal shop and clinic in Edinburgh, Scotland in 1860. It applies Napier’s 150 year-old original herbal formulas to all its cosmetics. Belif’s The True Anti-Aging Essence protects skin and leaves it radiant by retaining moisture through double layers of Calendula’s ultra-hydrating whipping cream — excellent for calming and moisturizing irritated skin—and super-potent antioxidants from the Amazonian acai berry. Also notable is Belif’s The True Cream, which is inspired by the practice of treating the damaged and cracked skin of Edinburgh’s farmers with an ointment consisting of marigold, red clover, and poke root. Containing all these essential herbs, it keeps the skin soft and supple for hours. Belif’s Hungarian Water Essence was inspired by the legendary ‘Hungarian Water’ that allowed Hungarian Queen Elizabeth to maintain her beauty into ripe old age. Based on a moisturizing formula created by applying Hungarian Water to natural herbs including rosemary and lavender, this water-type essence is enjoying popularity by transforming aged, dull skin into healthy-looking skin glowing with youth.

Feeling Bleu Bleu de Chanel has been given a new travel spray which is so sleekly elegant it looks like an accessory that could make any dresser or sink look immediately more refined, wherever you may be. Made from a silky blue aluminum, with the name in silver, the twist and spray system is intelligent and easy to use, not to mention idiot and spill-proof. Ideal for travel, the light 20 ml spray ($124) is perfectly portable as it slips easily into the smallest of totes, briefcase or washbag. Refills ($93) make this spray an endless pleasure. If you don’t already know, this fragrance smells of pink pepper, vetiver, cedar, labdanum, ginger and sandalwood.

149


mix sensations

Around the corner British Michelin-star chef, Jason Atherton, piques the interest of local foodies with a new true-to-style Spanish tapas bar, Esquina. By Hafiz Rasid

O

ne certainly can’t complain about the lack of good food in Singapore. And much to epicureans’ delight, the culinary landscape is actually ablaze with the star power of several well-known names setting up shop here. The latest entrant is Esquina, a new venture by celebrity chef Jason Atherton. Having worked under the famed Gordon Ramsey Group in 2001 as the executive chef for Verre in Dubai, he returned to London four years later to helm the much applauded maze, in what would be the most successful brand in the group; earning many accolades and the notable Michelin star in the next year. Atherton went solo last year to open his flagship restaurant, Pollen Street Social that earned him another Michelin star. Now, he’s bringing his magic touch to the gastronomic scene here. Far removed from any glitzy mall – the venue of choice for culinary bigwigs – Esquina is a cosy dive that promises to add a social element to the side of excellent food. Eschewing the pompous dining experience associated with Michelinstar establishments, Esquina, is a fuss-free, no-reservations-needed eatery that is more of a watering hole than a restaurant. Its long communal bar and kitchen is a recreation of an European-style urban canteen, where food is prepared inches away from the patrons. The easy going chef talks to Men’s Folio about the idea behind Esquina and how it fits into Singapore’s food scene.

Men’s Folio: Share with us the concept behind Esquina. Jason Atherton: Esquina’s based on a very traditional Spanish tapas bar. I want it to be first and foremost to be a good neighbourhood restaurant. When diners come to Esquina, I want them to drink beer, have good food and talk to the chef – just hang out. It’s not going to be a special occasion restaurant and we don’t want people to plan month-long reservations; it’s a place where you go after work and have a quick bite to eat. That’s pretty much how the Spanish life is. Every neighbourhood has a joint like this in Spain. Esquina is the result of my life-long love affair with Spain and its produce. I love everything about this amazing country and its culture and people. We don’t want our food to be schizophrenic from following trends, so it’s just good Spanish tapas with a bit of a twist.

150

Why the location? It’s a local neighbourhood, and it’s been around for a few years. (When hotelier and restaurateur) Loh Lik Peng suggested this neighbourhood, I thought it was perfect for this concept. This is a very colourful area, and it has a chequered history, it’s kind of cool to have a joint here.

How did the partnership with Loh Lik Peng came about, and how does it fit into his restaurant and hotel group, Unlisted Collection? I met him in 2006 when he was in London. A few years later we opened a restaurant together in Shanghai with Mavis Khoo-Oei, who runs the Goodwood Park hotel. our partnership evolved from there. I wouldn’t say we’re trying to fit into other restaurants under Unlisted Collection, we’re sort of doing our own thing. This is still very much a Spanish tapas bar, but we don’t want to let go of our Michelin star history, so everything we do has to be perfect.

Tell us about the team behind Esquina. At the moment, it’s just me and Andrew Walsh. He is here to get things running and have a strong team in place, develop and maintain the standard of quality in the menu. We need to keep the menu current and exciting; this is what we’ll do in the coming years.

What are some important considerations you took into account before opening Esquina? We’re in the middle of the world’s biggest recession, no matter which part of the world you’re in. That is an important point to consider, so we made sure the menu is price effective. I want people to still feel like they can have a good quality meal and still be affordable. Obviously, we’re coming to a new town. Instead of imposing ourselves on the people, we want to be part of the Singapore culture. That’s why I’ll never come here trying to change the local cuisines because they have been established for hundreds of years. So it’s more of adding to it than changing it. Esquina is located at 16 Jiak Chuan Road, Tel: 6222 1616


mix sensations

Perfect 10

When you’re lumbering through the city streets, praying your feet don’t fail you, District 10 offers consolation with a little tipple and no-nonsense comfort food. By Aravin Kumar Kopitini

A

fter a hot and heavy day at work, worn-out and famished, you need a little cheery pick-me-up. Cheap beer and deep-fried food would merely send you deeper into the abyss, so you need something with a bit more style. Enter District 10. Once nestled in the hidden corner of Winstedt Road, District 10 has now relocated to UE Square, in the vicinity of River Valley and Clemenceau Avenue, right where you need it. District 10 presents a tranquil prospect with a culinary experience that marries a little bit of fancy with a whole lot of comfort. Recycling materials from their previous home, fixtures are paved with a rustic yet slick wooden finish that is organic and unpretentious. Conceived by notable local architect Martin Goh of WM Architects, the space glows, echoing the soft tangerines of a sunset. Drinks are ample with a wine list, deep in Australians as well as selections ranging from French to South African bottles. Classics are on hand, as well as signature cocktails to amuse the experimental. With a dose of Tia Maria, scotch whiskey and freshly brewed coffee, the Kopitini with its smoky dark amber tint, perks and lifts any weary soul. With consultant chef and co-owner Luca Pezzera at the helm, leaving with merely a glass or two at the bar would be a grave mistake. Migrate from the open-concept bar to the breezy outdoors for your sit-down dinner. Sheathed in a golden-brown crust, start off with the Parmesan cheese foie gras croquette

British curry

Hoegaarden battered fish & chips

Pavlova

delicate Parmesan cheese-laced foie gras croquette. If you are able to claw yourself a second helping, dip the thick stick of goodness into the grass-green wasabi-spiked mayonnaise. For your mains, satiate your famished desires with either the Hoegaarden battered fish and chips or the aromatic British curry, served with Basmati white rice. The fish and chips are a classic for the tame. However, if you prefer a little run in the spice department, the British curry would do it. Served with homemade tomato chutney, the curried sliced beef tenderloin is dense with flavours, yet it does not overwhelm the palate. Complete your evening with the Pavlova. Decorated with tangy passion fruit sorbet and luscious ruby strawberry salsa, the Pavlova is light and tantalizing. District 10 Bar & Restaurant 81 Clemenceau Avenue #01-15/16/17 UE Square Shopping Mall Singapore 239917 Tel: 6738 4788, www.district10.com.sg

151


mix sensations

Luck Be A Hybrid Nightlife mainstay Michel Lu amps up the club scene with a hybrid concept venue, bringing fabulous food, great cocktails, and a chic new haunt to night owls on the prowl for fun. By Hafiz Rasid

W

hen it comes to creating the hottest party joint, no one does it better than Michel Lu. The veteran in Singapore’s club scene – he’s the mastermind behind the incomparable Stereolab and Centro – is back after his departure from The Prive Group with a whole new concept, the part lounge, part eatery and part dance floor, Lucky 13 that is a generous promise of a good night out. Lucky 13 is the first project released under Lu’s new company Revolver Asia. Marketed as a ‘Miami-style’ venue, the casual vibe of Lucky 13 is quite in contrast to Lu’s former exclusive nightspot, Stereolab. “Every concept that I create is distinct and separate, and Lucky 13 is no different,” explains Lu. “The decor, ambience, style and vibe are a lot more rugged, and the outdoor deck and smoking area with the wonderful landscaping just make it even better.” “I think it’s just like what you’d expect from a bar in the meat packing district of New York. It fills a much needed gap of a casual no cover charge party venue with good food and drinks,” says Lu. And if Lu’s lucky streak in a string of successful nightspots is any indication, Lucky 13 is sure to strike gold amongst partygoers here.

Michel Lu

152


Men’s Folio St Germain Cocktail

In expected Lu fashion, Lucky 13’s approach to the casual venue comes with a touch of style – the dining table is clothed in leather at Lu’s behest because “it adds an interesting texture for diners.” A signature logo, created by London’s famed tattoo artist Andrea Furci, is set against a decor that strikes a balance between Miami-rawness and timeless refinement. If the vibe and visual cues aren’t enough to inspire the Miami feel, a glance at the menu is evident of the joint’s slant towards Americana. Headed by American chef Garfield Angove, Lucky 13 serves up a mix of flavours common in the Party Town, such as the Grilled Mahi Mahi Tacos with Chipotle Pico de Gallo, Cuban Medianoche Sandwich, Gambas al Ajillo – and of course, the quintessentially Cuban import, a mojito.

Men’s Folio St Germain Cocktail A night out in the club is not complete without the obligatory libation, but getting liquored up and lowering your inhibitions need not be a dreadful display of embarrassment. As is casual at Men’s Folio, everything that we

do has to be done with panache and style. So put away the frothy pint – and restrain from the crass act of downing shots – and order Lucky 13’s special concoction for our readers, the Men’s Folio St Germain Cocktail. Tasteful and sparkling, it hits you with the right amount of buzz to get you in the partying mood. So sip up, and toast to the club maestro, Michel Lu. Lucky 13 is located at #01-02 TripleOne Somerset, Tel: 6733 9800

153


mix tech

Gorgeous Gadgets Who says that that there can be no marriage between fashion and technology? By Aaron Tan

LG

3D UD TV LG Electronics has recently unveiled the world’s largest 3D Ultra Definition TV at the Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas. This 84-inch is impossibly slim, combining LG’s industry-leading 3D technology and Smart TV function with UD display technology, breaking new ground in immersive 3D home entertainment. LG’s 3D UD TV boasts superb picture quality with 8 million pixels, four times the resolution clarity (3840x2160) of existing HD TV panels. Combined with LG’s Slim and Narrow Bezel Design, the 3D UD TV provides the most convincing 3D viewing experience currently available outside of a movie theater. Colours and details throughout an entire image are preserved with utmost clarity and sharpness, even when displaying scenes with dark lighting.

156

Polaroid SC1630

Looking more like a smartphone than a digital camera, the Polaroid SC1630 runs on the Android operating system. Armed with a 3x optical zoom, the 16-megapixel camera has 18 different scene modes and has a 3.2-inch rear display. Features inside the camera include automatic face detection and smile detection. It allows you to edit photos and video including removing red eyes, cropping to size, and colour correction before uploading onto social networking or photo sites via Wi-Fi. It is even GPS enabled to arrange your photos by date and location.


SONY

Tablet S 3G On first look, you might find the Sony Tablet S 3G a bit weird as it looks somewhat different from other tablet PCs. The back panel has been designed to look like a folded page of a magazine, thereby making one side thicker than the other. However, the wedge shape makes it comfortable for a user to hold the device. The tablet features a 9.4-inch display with a resolution of (1280x800) pixels. The tablet’s display is sharp and produces excellent colours and watching movies on its big, detailed display is a treat. Rather than go through the specs of a tablet, what sets the Sony Tablet S 3G apart from the competition is its ability to simply “throw” music and videos to other DLNA compatible devices including TVs, mobile phones, PCs, laptops and others. Meaning that with a single swipe, one can enjoy music and videos streamed directly from the Sony Tablet S 3G on other DLNA compatible devices.

The Libratone Lounge

Famous for their high quality and great sound, Danish company Libratone has launched the Libratone Lounge, designed to simplify and enhance any home décor with room filling, high fidelity sound without clumsy speakers and tangled wires. Subscribing to the Scandinavian minimalist design ethos, these speakers border on plain, yet they are beautiful to look at. The Libratone Lounge incorporates what is called FullRoom technology to ensure full acoustic, clear sound is heard throughout the room via a single speaker. The focus on design is reflected in the speaker’s materials, which are crafted from luxe Italian cashmere, chrome, and wood. Equipped with Apple AirPlay technology, it also allows you to stream music from Mac or PC iTunes libraries as well as songs stored on an iOS device through Wi-Fi.

Nakamichi “My Mini Plus”

Nodding to the Harajuku street culture ,this tiny portable lightweight speaker weighing just 139g dreamed up by the renowned Japanese high fidelity audio company can fit neatly into any hand or shoulder bag. The five-cm cube-shape mini speaker comes in eight colour options including light pink, fuchsia, purple, red, blue, black, lime green, and silver to match any youthful inclination.

157


mix drive

Street Stud An embodiment of performance and polish, Porsche’s new Carrera 911 tears up the streets. By Aaron Tan

T

he completely redesigned generation of the sports car icon has stepped into the limelight. With its flat stretched out silhouette, exciting contours and precisely designed details, the Porsche 911 stays true to the 911 tradition with its distinctive Porsche design language, exuding power and elegance. Porsche designers made sure the new 911 looked the part with its iconic fender shapes, ovoid headlamps, and fast tail but with a fresher and sleeker look, but bearing a more than a passing resemblance to the Panamera.

158


Engine:

3.8-litre V6

Power/Torque:

350bhp / 287lb/ft

Acceleration:

0-100kph: 4.8s

Top speed:

289kph

The all-new lightweight body of the Porsche 911 Carrera is built with an intelligent aluminium-steel composite construction, resulting in a lighter yet sturdier outer shell. Aerodynamic optimisation includes a wider, variably extending rear spoiler, enabling the new 911 Carrera’s lift to be reduced yet further. The 100 millimetre longer wheelbase and reduced height combined with up to 20-inch wheels accentuates its athletic appearance. The wider front track also ensures the new 911 Carrera sits even more solidly on the road. The re-modelled exterior mirrors are accommodated on the upper edge of the door and not as before on the mirror triangle. Not only is this aerodynamically advantageous, it emphasises the improved silhouette and visual impression of width. To complement the modern exterior design, the Porsche designers have created an interior which takes its cue from the Porsche Carrera GT. The driver is now even more closely integrated with the cockpit thanks to the centre console rising up to the front with the high mounted shift lever or gear selector located close to the steering wheel in motor sport fashion. Classic Porsche elements are also to be found inside, as they are on the outside like a high resolution multifunction screen. New active control systems elevate the dynamics to an unprecedented level while the electro-mechanical steering offers greater precision and feedback. The modifications enure the 911 Porsche further entrench its reputation as an icon from the instant its first generation arrived 50 years ago.

159


mix scene

New Jeans on the Block KOhZO celebrated its premiere in Singapore with a launch party. By Hilman Nasir

B

est known for its geen denim, streetwear label KOhZO celebrated its entry into Singapore with a launch party. Besides the sizzling fashion parade showcasing KOhZO’s funky denim collection, KOhZO’s creator Shauket Imam was also present to explain the eco-friendly and green-conscious philosophy behind his designs that uses only natural yarn and fabrics. But there’s nothing like wearing the clothes and feeling the texture on the skin, so the guests were gamely egged on by celebrity host Utt to try on the collection for a firsthand experience. KOhZO is available exclusively at selected Bread & Butter stores in Singapore. Juan Jimenez and Abigail Baniqued

Joie and Shauket Imam

KOhZO designer, Shauket Imam with VGO CEO, Steven Goh and the models

Utt

160


Marilyn Lee and Shu

Monica Wong and Jacqueline Poh

Olga Iserlis and Celina Lin

Rick Ong and Irving Goh

Aileen Goh and Leslie Goh

Sarah Lombardi and Marine Obin

Mai Lu and Matthew Read

H

ermes hosted a private screening of their fashion documentary: Hearts and Crafts for friends of the luxury house last November. Over 250 invitees made an appearance at The Joyden Hall at Iluma for this muchanticipated preview. The film revealed the intricate art and workmanship behind the crafting and assembling of the immaculqately finished Hermes pieces one encounters finished immaculately – the bags, jewellery, silverware and scarves. It serves as an appreciation of the Hermes artisans who are hidden in the ateliers of the label. Along with this film, Hermes also put together 10 profiles of their artisans for online viewers to appreciate.

(From left) Ian Horsburgh, Putri Sudiono, Jennifer Li and Douglas Khee

Charlyn Tan and Selena Lim

Hermes presented a documentary, Hearts and Crafts, to pay tribute to its artisans. By Hilman Nasir

Hearts and Crafts 161


A Weil of a Time Raymond Weil commemorates its 35th anniversary with the unveiling of its new Singapore boutique at Marina Square. By Aaron Tan

(From left) Ong Ban, Agnes Sng, Jörg Alois Reding, Dirk Paulsen Nathan Hartono

(From left) Tracie Pang, Rachel Marley, Nathan Hartono, Irene Ang, Adrian Pang

T

(From left) Jessy & Elie Bernheim

Kimberley Kee

162

he grand opening of the 300-sq ft Raymond Weil Marina Square was a glitzy affair fuelled by champange, canapes, and enchanting live performances. Hosted by media celebrity and theatre stalwart Adrian Pang, the event also saw the launch of the boutique exclusive Crazy Time collection, and the brand’s affirmation of its commitment to the development of the arts in Singapore. The evening was graced by Elie Bernheim, director of Raymond Weil and grandson of the brand’s eponymous founder; Dirk Paulsen, director of C. Melchers GmbH & Co. Singapore; Jörg Alois Reding, Swiss ambassador to Singapore; Stephan Ritzmann, Group CEO of Sincere Watch Limited; and Ong Ban, CEO of Sincere Watch Limited. Local celebrities Irene Ang, Hossan Leong, Jazreel Low and Keegan Kang also added some star dust to the occasion.


mix scene

Martin Bachmann and Nat Ho

Dicky Cheung and Diana Ser

H

ot after the heels of its first mono-brand boutique in Kuala Lumpur, Swiss luxury watchmaker, Maurice Lacroix opened its new flagship concept store in Singapore, the second in Southeast Asia after Malaysia. This event took place at the nexus of Marina Square where guests and VIPs were treated to champagne and canapés whilst admiring Maurice Lacroix timepieces. To celebrate the occasion, Maurice Lacroix invited their first Asian brand ambassador, Dicky Cheung, Hong Kong singer and actor to represent Maurice Lacroix’s ‘follow your convictions’ philosophy. Located at Marina Square, the boutique echoes the stylish undertones of the mall. At over 400 square feet and styled with Maurice Lacroix’s signature sleek sophistication and discreet luxury, the warm accents come with a muted colour scheme enhanced by balmy spot lighting and matte marble flooring. Reflecting the marquee’s mechanical finesse are the silver finishes and prints of watch wheels and plates.

(From left) Tara Rushton, Paul Foster and Azusa Hyde

Cynthia Koh

Edmund Chen

Luxury Defined It was a night to remember at the grand opening of Maurice Lacroix’s first standalone boutique in Singapore. By Aaron Tan

163


MIX lust page

STYLISH INDULGENCE The editorial team at Men’s Folio highlights ideas and objects that inspire and excite this month

The Naka Island “Time and silence are the true luxuries in my life. Without the distraction of emails and phone calls, I would be able to have a quiet moment to sun bathe underneath a palm tree while sipping gin and juice.” – Aravin Kumar, Fashion Writer

lust at first sight Christian “ItwhenwasI laid my eyes on this Louboutin pair of Rollerboy Spikes.

loafers

Yes, boys too can fall hard for a Christian Louboutin. I mean, how could anybody not adore this fierce, edgy, rock-and-roll footwear? I love it and I want it.” – Hilman Nasir, Intern

The Horse of Nayebhossein

by Pooya Aryanpour

“One should always invest in art. It’s about having taste, which I define as the most intense form of individuality.”

– Wei Lun, Senior Fashion Stylist

Piper-Heidsieck x Jean-Paul Gaultier Black Cancan

“They say you never forget your first time – I popped my ‘champagne cherry’ to Piper Heidsieck and it’s still my favourite bubbly to date.” – Hafiz Rasid, Senior Features Writer Available at Hermitage Wines Retail Outlet, One Marina Boulevard

164

A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and her Life in Fashion, Art, and Letters

by Penelope Rowlands

“A must read. Snow is someone whose professional accomplishments I truly admire. We even share the same birthday - and the love of three-martini lunches.” – Hafiz Rasid, Senior Features Writer



Men's Folio Singapore March 2012