Second hand clothes pdf by Hannah Hussain

The rise of second hand clothes; and its motivational drivers

Declaration School of Art & Design

fcp3

Declaration Form 2012/13 Module: Negotiated Project Stage 1 Module Leader: Tim Rundle Ref. no: FASH30001

I confirm that this work has gained ethical approval and that I have faithfully observed the terms of the approval in the conduct of this project.

This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed.

Should this statement prove to be untrue I recognise the right and duty of the board of examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the Universityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s regulations on assessment contained in its handbook.

signed ................................................................................................. ...................

date.........30/1/2013................................................................................................. ____

Contents 1. Introduction 8-14

13. Appendix

2. Methodology 15-24

Appendix 1 Ethical Checklist 137-138

3. Market 25-42 Pest - 32-33 Swot - 34-35

Appendix 2Museam V&A visit 139-140

4. Non-Profitble Organisation 43-50 Appendix 3 Sophia’s closet sample sale 141-144 5. Consumer 51-62 Appendix 4 London Case Study 145-146 6. Sustainability 63-68 -London Street Style - 147-148 7. Green Washing 69-76 Appendix 5 Vintage Fair 149-152 8. Luxury 77-80 9. Trends and Tribes 81-90

Appendix 6 Questionnaire 153-160 Results, analysis and consent

10. The future 91-95 11. Conclusion 97-101

Appendix 7 Open questionnaire for men & key answers 61-163

12. References, Bilography and Illustrations

Appendix 8 Interview Transcript at ‘A vintage obsession’ 165-171

References 113-117 Figures 119-123 Bibliography 125-135

Appendix 9 Charlotte O-brien Consent & Interview transcript 171-177 Appendix 10 Ceri Heathcote Email Interview178-182

Appendix 18 H&M case study 216-218

Appendix 11 Erica Louise Email Interview 183188

Appendix 20 Tutorial Record sheets 222-226

Appendix 19 Cirtical Path/ Note on Time Management 219-221

Appendix 12 Male Voice recording 189-190 Appendix 13 Online questionnaire, results and analysis 192-198 Appendix 14 Focus Group transcript 199-203 Appendix 15 Consumer Profiles 204-206 Appendix 16 Mental Mapping 208-212 Appendix 17 Visual Merchandising 213-215

NTRODUCTION When old turns new

1.0 The rise of second hand clothes ‘A long chain of charity and commerce binds the world’s richest and poorest people in accidental intimacy. It’s a curious feature of the global age that hardly anyone on either end knows’ (packer 2002:54). result, there has been rising concern among individuals about the health of our planet and third world workers welfare. A subsequent boom in second hand trends which consumers are emotionally responsive to, has created new fashion tribes and communities. Predominantly fashion has become one of the most unsustainable industries to date.

Presented as both a fashion and anti-fashion statement, second hand clothes have been introduced and absorbed by the fashion industry in different ways. The recession has caused brands to lower prices and through globalisation, the mass production of apparel has become an ever growing and profitable industry (Mintel 3, 2010). As a FIG 3 Vintage Clothes in Cow. Own Photography

Angela Mcrobbie(1989), was the first to identify the sub culture of consumption (Katherine E. Pears 2006: Online). In terms of eco fashion, eco-dress has developed from the hippie subculture of the 1960’s. The disapproval of the fashion industries’ use of textile mills and sweatshops was voiced by eco-feminists especially as the system exploited women. The style has been influenced and empowered through values associated with the protection of environmental, human, and animal rights. The ‘Hippie’ tribe, was recognised through the creation of embellishments and the trading of clothing, getting garments from alternative channels outside the consumer based fashion conscious culture. Sustainable fashion designers have often represented this subculture of eco-fashion as a deliberate form of anti-fashion, accidentally creating 8

a stigma against this style (Palmer 2005:30). Are these people, avid and careful, secondhand consumers with limited budgets, or is there a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;protect the planetâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, recycling ethos? Originally, research for this report focused on investigating peoples motivations to re-use clothes, but further study steered the report in the direction of looking at all aspects, with brands being a main contributor to the changing industry. Therefore the purpose of this study to explore the rising second hand clothes industry, and to discover motivational purposes from both consumers and brands; researching how organisations are responding to new consumer demands. The recycling clothes industry has amplified over recent years, but not as much compared to other materials (Household Waste Recycling Act, 2003: online). This initially demonstrates a potential gap in the market. 9

FIG 4. Hippie dress 2010

Recommendations will be made into how the recycling of clothes can be commercially viable, whilst appealing to eco-buyers at the end of the report.

1.2 When did recycled fashion begin? consumer-driven society and fast moving economy that drives the profit driven culture of today; often through the quest for self-expression.

Postâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;World War II shifts in income and purchasing power helped fashion, style and speciďŹ c garment niches to emerge such as: teenage clothing, career dressing, sports and leisure wear (Fashion Futures, 2025) During World War 1 when clothing was scarce, women invented ways to update outfits. Recycling was seen as inventive and revamps of current dress codes were admirable (Walkley 1980:20) (V&A visit, 2012: appendix 2). Surprising, this DIY technique did later become fashionable.

The journey begins with a study of how second hand fashion symbolises society, investigating how the recent economy, trends, sustainability and technology have shaped the recycling clothes industry. The report will also discover who recycles and why, looking at ethical, economical and commercial reasons.

Towards the end of the twentieth century, the western world became more aware of its responsibility to protect the earth from human waste and new recycling schemes and movements arose. Now, the fashion industry is rapid with ever changing trends. Trade in Second-hand clothing and textile recycling is becoming increasingly profitable and in many ways beneficial, with companies choosing profit over positive, ethical and environmental change. However some positivity still remains with garments that sit on the rack unsold for too long being given to charity. Alternatively, unsold garments are disposed of in bulk to textile recyclers who sort and grade them, some go to the industrial cleaning-rag market and more for the second-hand-clothing export market (Encyclopaedia, 2010: Online). Second-hand dress can also been seen as a way to express individuality through past trends and quirky styles, however to some it is a matter of price. From a business point of view, fashion is a key element in feeding the 10

FIG 5 Shirts at â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;A vintage obesessionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; store. Own Image

ETHODOLOGY Who, Why, How?

sample. Emails from inspirational bloggers and experts within the industry also contributed to the research. Visits to a range of stores were also made to gain firsthand experience. All primary research was conducted ethically according to the University ethical code, and consent forms were used appropriately. The extension of each method, analysis, limitations, blank questionnaires, results and ethical considerations are shown in the appendix.

The research for this report was conducted to investigate the rise of the second hand clothes industry, and to discover its motivational drivers. Exploration into the unique characteristics of second hand shoppers will aid the understanding of the specific drivers towards its purchase and consumption. The report questions why are people really buying into trends such as vintage, and who is the new consumer?

Visits to inspirational stores/places

2.1 Primary research

To get into the mind-set of the consumer and understand their lifestyle, visits were made to relevant events and places. These were chosen because they looked at different areas of the second hand clothing industry. Organisations were visited around Nottingham, London and Kent to gain insight into the recycling ethos, and notes on visual merchandising as well as photography has been documented and used constructively in the report.

The methodology includes questionnaires, online surveys, vox pox’s, email interviews and face to face interviews, which are displayed on a CD at the back of the document. Transcripts are shown in the appendix as well as a range of creative methods for a representative and reliable

Luxury sample sale - This visit took

FIG 6. Visual merchandising at Cow (22 October 2012) Own Image

place one the 1st December in London allowing first-hand experience of a second hand luxury sample sale at ‘Sophia’s Closet’. Additionally interviews could be done with the owner or the brand (Luxury sample sale, 2012: appendix 3) London was also a key place to visit as it embodies many aspects of second hand fashion. From low-cost pre-loved clothing in Camden market, to genuine vintage collectables and designer-customised retro (London Case Study, 2012: appendix 4). The Vintage Fair in Nottingham was also visited to gain insight into second hand tribes and visual merchandising trends (Vintage Fair 2012, Appendix:5) 16

Questionnaire FIG 7 Jacket at Cow’’ (22 October 2012) Own Image

Hand completed questionnaires aimed at a range of consumers was created to determine: • Who recycles clothes • Why recycling clothes is important • Recycling tendencies compared to specifically recycling clothes. A closed questionnaire using multiple choice questions was used as the most suitable way to gain information. This is because it provided quantifiable results which can be statistically analysed into graphs to discover patterns and correlations. There were 100 participants overall, (50 male and 50 females) creating the opportunity to compare gender outcomes. By asking 20 participants from each age range, it was possible to gain insight into different consumer behaviours (Questionnaire, 2012: appendix:6). Triangulation was used to understand the consumer and enabled a more in-depth exploration of the topics covered. Further interviews with brand managers allowed a more thorough understanding of the industry.

Interviews Emails were sent to over 20 people outlining the aims and objectives, asking them to contribute to research which offered a chance for in depth answering. It was expected that only a few would reply (through contacting). Views from a range of people within the industry, from bloggers to experts, provided deeper understanding of the motivations drivers towards second hand fashion, giving a more rounded perspective and helping guide the report. Face to face interviews allowed for content analysis as well as the ability to express personal views not covered in the questionnaire. It also offered an opportunity to explore beliefs and trends not raised in the questionnaire.

FIG 8 Hair styling at the Vintage Fair’(8 December 2012) Own Image

Who was Interviewed? Who: Verity Mason Job Role: Owner of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;A vintage obsessionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Why: To gain knowledge of second hand fashion industry, consumer trends and business insights Method: 20 minute interview at 11am on 20th November 2012. The interview took place at the vintage boutique store, Lace Market Nottingham Transcription: The interview transcript can be found in the appendix 7. The full video is displayed on a CD at the back of the report

Who: Ceri Heathcote Job role: Writer for The Ethical Fashion Forum Intelligence Magazine and a blogger at Oxfam Fashion. Why : To gain further insight into a key case study Oxfam and talk in depth about recycling clothes Method: Email interview conducted on the 1 Novemeber 2012. Transcription: The transcription can be found the appendix 9

FIG 9. Vertiy Mason. Own Image

Who: Irakni Job Role: 33 year old business man Why: To gather further information about the male consumer Method: Voice recording Transcription: Voice transcription can be found in the appendix 11

Who: Erica Louise Job role: successful sustainable fashion blog (www.recycled-fashion.com),cofounded (and co-editor of) an additional collaborative sustainable sewing fashion blog, and co-founder of an online marketplace focusing on recycled art, craft, gifts, and fair trade products. Why: Further insight into recycling and the customization of clothes market through social media Method: Via email 3rd November 2012 Transcription: Print screens of emails and transcription can be found in the appendix 10. References to the interview are made throughout report.

Who : Charlotte Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;brien Job role: Owner of the online boutique Sophias Closet Why: Knowledge of the luxury second hand industry and discussion of the sample sale Method: 15 minutes face to face interview on the 1st December 2012 Pimlico London. Transcription: The interview transcript can be found in the appendix 8 and the video on a CD at the back of the report

FIG 10. Charlotte Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;brien. Own Image

FIG 11 Oxfam Window display(22 October 2012) Own Image

Open male survey

project and a disclaimer was featured to inform participants of what will be done with the data. All women in the sample had purchased at least once a piece of second-hand clothing in the past (screening question). The questionnaire was piloted on 5 participants to increase accuracy and 50 surveys were also completed. Online techniques also help to decrease location bias (Online female survey, 2012: Appendix 13).

Once the results from the questionnaire were gathered it was clear that the target consumer for this project was female. An online open ended survey was used to create more detailed answering and was used to further investigate why men donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t recycle clothes as much as women. The results could then justify the decision to focus the report on the female consumer. (Online Male survey, 2012: appendix 12)

Focus Group 29/12/12

Online female survey 18-25 The results of the questionnaire informed further research via an online questionnaire. A few initial questions were answered focussing on consumer lifestyle, to further analyse in depth the motivations behind the buying of second hand clothes to really tap in to the main insights. In terms of ethics, a detailed explanation of the

After the majority of the primary research was completed and key questions identified, a focus group was conducted with 5 individuals (female students age 20-25) to discover the importance, and relationship between fashion and price. The aim was to discover a link between consumer lifestyles and motivation. Interaction among participants created 20

evidential insight into consumer lifestyles. Opinions on specific brands also offered a chance to further explore reasons behind buying choices (Focus Group, 2012: Appendix 14)

Consumer Profiles and Lifestyle It was very important to have a deep understanding of the relevant consumer. To achieve this, 2 individuals chosen from the focus group were asked to create their consumer profiles buy compiling favourite objects into one composition. These were collected from the 1st November through to January. The profiles are analysed further in the appendix (15). Consumer profiles were also made for the ethical and modern consumer (in the main body of the report) to show creative insights. FIG 12. Consumer Profile’ by Bryony Lloyd

Creative methods Mental mapping was undertaken by asking the random participants to draw the lace market in Nottingham. This is an appropriate place in Nottingham with many charities and vintage shops being well known in this area. Analysis of the drawings was used to discover gender interpretational differences as well as what retail outlets were most recalled. (Creative Methods, 2012 ‘mental mapping’: Appendix 16)

A Vox Pox was used to explore consumer lifestyles and the second hand clothing consumer’s motivation to buy; a key question within the research. ‘Why do you by vintage?’ was asked to all and were written on swing tags for a visual effect (Creative Methods, 2012 ‘Vox Pox’: Appendix 16)._

2.2 Secondary Research

FIG 13. Designer Forum Sign Up leaflet

‘Second-Hand Cultures’ By Nicky Gregson, Secondary research was used to analyse the market globally through a wide range ‘the ethical consumer’ by Rob Harrison of secondary sources. Trend reports such 2005, and ‘Old clothes, New looks, second as: Mintel, WGSN, Stylus and Style sight, hand fashion’ by Alexandra palmer and provided past and future forecasts. Journals Hazel Clark 2005. A future trends lecture from Emerald gave a deeper understanding at The Design Forum was also attended on the 5th November, and finally magazines, into consumer behaviours, and press releases offered valuable information on newspapers and background research through lectures helped to inform decisions recent company developments. Quotes from books were influential in particular and increase understanding.

FIG 14. Vintage add in the ‘Vintage Directory’

2.3 Analysis of methods Triangulation was used to understand the consumer and the industry. Interviews were conducted to enable a more indepth exploration of the topics covered. Both open and close questionnaires were used online and by hand to increase validity, and create a true representation of the public in the UK. Bias factors could be questioned, as much of the research was conducted in Nottingham which isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t representative for the demographic. Therefore this research recognizes several limitations. First, the sample has to be increased and become representative of the target population. However, interviews were conducted around London where vintage/second-hand markets and stores are readily available. Nottingham is also a fashion capital, and so has lots of potential for further research. Secondary research was used to analyse the market globally.

mapping and writing on swing tags were also used for more innovative results; this created depth and excitement to the project. This report does gather information from around the world using secondary research, however it would be interesting to see cross-cultural differences in the profile of vintage and second-hand clients in more detail. For example between Europe and North America, where certain vintage clothing styles are culturally embedded. Lastly, it would be interesting to investigate recycling in other industries.

2.4 A note on visual language

The report uses pastel colours because they present a vintage aesthetic. The document was also printed on to ivory coloured recycled paper, which is considerate of the issues raised in the report in terms of environmental It would have been interesting to include concerns. Textured effects were used males; however research conducted ngage with the reader and recycled showed that they are less likely to be the tracing paper was also used. consumers of second hand fashion. Blogs and forums discussing vintage fashion and eco-fashion on the internet also tended to show that men are not major players in the industry. Research was piloted to increase validity, however subjectivity of personal involvement could have affected the results. Ethical implications were also considered according to the University ethical code, permission was asked to use individualâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s words, and consent forms were used appropriately. Creative methods such as mental 23

HE MARKET Lets Talk Trash

FIG 15. Fur Coats in Backlash Nottingham. Own Image

‘The recycling of textiles and the concerns about ethical clothing is small but fast growing ,with the market for ethical clothing, excluding charity shop and secondhand sales being worth around £175 million, up from an estimated £40 million in 2005. Despite growth, this remains an undeveloped market with plenty of potential.’ (Mintel 1,

2009 ‘Ethical clothing UK’: Online)

The UK recycling rate is only 9% (DEFRA, 2007). The apparel industry has one of the longest and most complicated industrial chains of the manufacturing industry involving input from the agricultural, chemical, textile, apparel, retail, and waste treatment industries. (Defa 2011: Online) In the UK, people spend £44 million a year on buying clothes (Mintel 3, 2010). This initially demonstrates that there is a gap in the market for the recycling and re-use of clothes which is yet to be exploited.

3.1 Globalisation

FIG 16. New Delhi â&#x20AC;&#x201C; India (2009)

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Cotton fields stand for 25% of all insecticides worldwide. 99% of cotton is grown in developing countriesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; ( DEFRA, 2012)

society. This issue alone should be the main motivational driver of the second hand clothing industry. Unfortunately other superficial elements exceed these aspects which will later be discussed. To analyse in more detail, results from the questionnaire (Online Questionnaire, 2012 :Appendix 13) indicated that only 4% of respondents were concerned about environmental or ethical issues, with the majority, (over 70%) stating they buy for originality or cheapness. 66% saw no correlation between clothing purchase and conservation of global resources, and a mere 3.8% of respondents felt there was a strong correlation.

The main causes of globalisation are; low labour and transport costs, low cost of new communication technologies and the decrease of the time given to create lines for high-street brands. This has resulted in led times reducing from 90 to 45 days in one season (An ethical fashion industry 2011: Online). This is argued to be unethical and should be better established and demonstrated within the industry, although this is highly unlikely in our profit driven 26

Furthermore while the market spend has more than quadrupled in the past five years, eco-fashion still has a tiny share of the global fashion market (0.04 per cent)

FIG 17. 1940’S Fabric

compared to supermarket clothing lines (Marsden 2010: Online). Fundamentally we are consuming more and more often than previous generations (Harrison 2005:45).

3.2 Mc Fashion Fast Fashion increased at the end of the 1990’s when brands began to look for new ways to increase profits (Hansen 2000:5). Globalisation has grown rapidly since then and mid-priced brands have shifted production to the developing world where labour costs are significantly lower.

‘We’ve gone from a place where 200 years ago your market was where you could walk in a day, to a place where your marketplace is the whole globe’, Said Richard Parsons, CEO and

chairman of Time Warner (Parsons 2012: Online)

3.3 Exploitation The huge high street brand ‘Primark’ was exploited through BBC's Panorama and The Observer, uncovering child labor within manufacture in 2012. Profit being £761,000,000 with the chain being worth an estimated £5bn. Primark has 177 stores in three countries, employing 25,000 people (BBC 2012: Online). Campaigners are now demanding that the

FIG 18. Love Fashion Hate Sweat Shops (20

UK government acts fast, in order to force companies to be responsible for the welfare of workers all the way down their tangled supply chains. This clearly shows the rise of a new, and more eco consumer. A participant from the focus group stated, ‘ I used to buy from charity shops but now the stuff in Primark is so cheap I don’t need to’ (see appendix 14). This is damaging

012) by Newham Asian Women’s Project.

for the second hand clothing industry as the more affordable high street brands become, the less likely hood for non-ethical consumers to intentionally recycle.

So why is there such a divide between general waste and clothing in terms of re-usage?

3.4 Landfill so the very affordability of clothing is now responsible for the 1.2 million tons of it (clothing) being dumped into landfill every year. Shockingly 50% of these textiles being discarded are recyclable (Kershaw 2012: Online). When thinking about the environment, 80% of clothes are disposed of after a single use (Defa, 2010), significantly adding to the carbon footprint.

The proportion of house hold waste being send to landfill has fallen 58% in one year (2010-2011)(Mintel 2, 2011), signifying a positive change within the recycling industry and is a reflection of the increasing number of recycling schemes available. Conversely this is not reflected within the textile industry. Impacts of the recession have caused brands to lower prices, and

FIG 19&20 : Landfill Couture by Phil Shaw

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;While other waste sources are reducing, clothing landfill increased by one third in 2011â&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Defa 2011: Online). 31

FIG 21. Scarlett Johansson (2012) by Dolce & Gabbana.

PEST

The multi-factorial issues surrounding the mass marketing and recycling of clothing can be more easily represented by using a PEST and SWOT analysis:

Political – Economical –

- Rates for 2012 are £48 +VAT per tonne which have increase £7 per year till current date compared to in active waste which is £2.50/tonne, an overall increase of 50p per year(mintel 2 2011: Online).

- 1 in 5 say they can’t afford to be green or ethical due to the impacts of the recession (Bhattay 2012: Online) - The clothing sector has survived the recession despite growth being limited due to weakened consumer spending with the market growing an estimated 1.5% in 2010. (The trend report (2007) In the Financial Times 2007)

- Landfill operators can apply to have tax-free status for any part of a site that is not used for landfill, but for recycling waste.

Social

Technological

- Awareness and interest for vintage clothing has increased dramatically since the early 1990s due to celebrity endorsement, taking style inspiration from taste markers reinforcing second hand fashion. Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s more, celebrity activists sometimes collaborate with fashion designers to establish their own eco fashion lines in form of selfpromotion (ASH 1996:219-20)

- Mobile technology has enabled the consumer to have constant access to brand media platforms with significant rise in e-commerce and m-commerce advertising. Social networking sights such as Facebook and Twitter aid brands with new ways of promoting. - Smart fabrics and new ways of manufacture such as 3D printing has the potential to change the entire way we consume apparel.

- Rented Vintage is also a medium that demonstrates the flourishing market for vintage clothing

FIG 22. Lana Del Ray for Prada 2012

SWOT Weaknesses Strengths

- Men are less interested in second hand fashion and so this limits the target market.

- Second hand fashion applies to a wide demographic through a variety of mediums with trends and tribes contributing to the industry.

- Brands are also reluctant to change their manufacturer if they are gaining significantly more profit through globalisation

- The industry offers positive effects on the environment, which in turn increases the likely hood of positive company social responsibility (CSR) (Mintel 9, 2009)

- There is a lack of awareness of recycling clothes, and awareness is what creates the ethical consumer ( Harrison 2005:10)

- UK-produced goods are increasingly associated with quality, as consumers take more interest in how a product is made.

- Research shows that Charity shops have been labelled with a negative stigma compared to vintage stores(vintageclothing-trend 2011: online)

FIG 23. An ethical Fashion Industry Illustration (2011) by The Labour behind the Label project

FIG 24. Sequins at Oxfam Vintage 2012. Own Image

Opportunities

Threats

- Consumer concerns with issues like sustainability and ethical production and trading is higher than it has ever been (Mintel 8 2012).

- Students are an unreliable consumer, ‘Many students have adopted a ‘spend now, pay later’ attitude: six in ten accept that debt is just part of university life.’(mintel 4, 2011)

- Fashion trends are beginning to allow brands organizations to target specific demographics as a potential marketing strategy - The success of online platforms such as Ebay and Asos Marketplace highly demonstrates the desire for second hand clothing. 35

- Sudden change in trend, taste or preference could dramatically affect the industry if brands are not considerate of the fashion conscious consumer as well.

3.6 Perceptual map

A Perceptual Map was the best way to display the most influential and important brands in the curren their impact on the industry.

Profitable O

Lack of Ethical and Environmental incentive

Non - Profitab

nt market. The map shows a range of high-street brands, vintage stores and charities, and displays

Organisation

ble Organisations

Ethical and Environmental incentive

FIG 25. White rose sign 2012. Own Image

3.7 Supporters Of Recycling Some of the key players within the recycling clothes industry are Oxfam, Marks and Spencers, White Rose and Traid (BBC 2012). All these brands offer recycling clothes banks and are in touch with recycling schemes and collaborations. American Eagle trade is a key merchant

FIG 26. The Vintage Wearhouse Nottingham, 2012. Own Image

in terms of trading second hand clothes in bulk, exporting to small businesses in foreign markets and is on track to becoming world leader in wholesale clothing distribution (The trend report (2007) In the Financial Times 2007).

‘‘Resale is a multibillion dollar industry that has been growing at a rate of 5% per year for a number of years’’ (Reeger, (2005) in Charbonneau 2008: Online)

FIG 27. White Rose Clothing Bank. 2012.Own Image

‘Today the countries of sub-Saharan Africa are the world’s largest second hand-clothing destination, receiving close to 26 percent of total world exports in 2004’ (Encyclopaedia 2010: Online).

Consequently, 90% of clothing consumed in the UK is imported. The question remains, is there a solution to the mass marketing of second hand clothing?

ONPROFITABLE ORGANISATIONS Waste not, want not

4.0 Charities; boom or bust? The popularity and upgrading of the jumble sale has led to another new development; the nearly new charity shop. Charities are the main contribution to the recycling of clothes through re-use. However with our ‘lazy’ generation (Marsden 2010: online), charities have started to undertake door to door collections in order to make it even easier for people to donate their clothes. The Salvation Army Trading Company’s textile bank is a prime example. This links to Marks and Spencers’ breakdown of the ethical consumer, who state that people are more willing to recycle if it does not mean a significant change for them (Barnett 2011, ‘The marketing Week’: Online). Recycling from home is easier and more convenient, therefore this is a key insight in this report which will help to develop recommendations for further study;(This is later explored in the ‘consumer section’ of the report). The online questionnaire conducted as primary research for the report, showed that 85% of the subjects agreed or strongly agreed that recycling is a good idea; whilst 66% said they purchase clothing from second hand stores. However, 90% felt that the recycling of clothing should be encouraged with 83% stating they would recycle if it was easy and they were aware of the benefits(Online Questionnaire, 2012, appendix:13).

FIG 28. Oxfam Sign 2012. Own Image

4.1 Oxfam Case Study ‘In May 2011 Oxfam launched its first popup shop in London’s Selfridges, staffed by celebrities and stocking clothes worn by celebrities, carrying exclusive samples from luxury labels’ (Bhattay 2012: Online).

This quote from the actress Scarlett Johansson, shows that involvement (in a charity) creates a relationship and loyalty between the organisation and the consumer. This may be a factor in why certain things do and don’t get taken to charity shops and why things are passed on in different ways.

Scarlett Johansson said at the launch...

The negative stigma of charity shops is shown through primary research (Focus group, appendix: 14). One participant stated ‘I never buy stuff in charity shops it always smells bad and everything is them is skanky! You can get some lush stuff in Vintage shops in Nottingham, and when paired with highstreet it can look really cute. It’s definitely a style that encourages me to shop in vintage because before it came into fashion, I used to get everything from Topshop.’ (Owen, 2012 appendix:14)

‘‘What a great way to give old clothes a new lease on life. As a global ambassador for Oxfam, I have seen how the charity’s work can change people’s lives. In India and Sri Lanka I’ve visited projects that are helping poor people find their own solutions to poverty. So, I’m delighted to be able to donate this beautiful Dolce & Gabbana dress that I wore to last year’s Drama Desk Awards in New York. This dress holds treasured memories for me because that was such a special evening. I hope somebody else enjoys wearing it as much as I did.”(Johansson(2010) In Vogue

2011:online)

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Up to 75 per cent of donations go straight to the dump, with charity shops paying for the privilegeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Portas 2011:online).

In 2010 Fashion guru Mary Portas starred in a TV programme called ‘Mary the Queen of Charity shops’. Her aim was to transform charity shops into real contenders; by revamping them and making them more like high street stores. Although this created publicity it could be questioned whether bargain hunters would go elsewhere. Isn’t the charm of Charity shopping (or thrift shopping) the sense of discovery of finding a unique item, whether it be for authenticity or the ’bargain factor’? Another participant from the Focus Group said ‘‘Thrift shopping is fun too cause you never know what you are going to find. I’ve found some really cool things in second hand stores before like all my old vinyl’s which I collect and quaint vintage boxes that I keep my stuff it. That’s what makes it fun!’’ (pease, 2012 appenedix:14) It can be concluded that people need to see the real benefits of charity shops. Maybe if charity shops incorporated vintage visual merchandising it would encourage more people into the stores? (visual merchandising, 2012, Appendix:17) FIG 29. Oxfam Clothes swap leaflet 2012

4.2 Tracing the Product Journey Storytelling initiatives show a product or brand history or process, which can be as effective online as in-store. We are becoming progressively interested in garments which have a story behind them or embody nostalgic attributes; “Companies should take a stand for something beyond selling product,” says Robert Richman, manager of Zappo Insights. Retailers are beginning to tell the journey of their product from start to finish. This promotes the longevity of the item and establishes the brand as a positive counterpoint to fast consumerism. An example of this is British label Hiut Denim, which attaches ‘History Tags’ to their jeans. Each pair comes with a unique number which can be registered at the History Tag web page linked to the brand’s e-commerce site. ‘If in the future your jeans get handed down, or end up in a second-hand shop, their memories will go along with them. That’s both the genius of the History Tag and of making a product to last. It will give our objects more meaning’ Says Hiut co-founder(Hieatt (2010) in Stylus 2010: Online).

The History Tag ‘‘ On the one hand, we have the desire to make something well, to make something to last. And on the other hand, we have the geeky side of us that understands the power of the internet to tell stories. That’s why Hiut Denim will be the first jean company in the world to have a History Tag. After all if we make a pair of great jeans that last, so should the memories that are made in them. So, how does it work? Each jean will come with a unique number. Your unique number. You go to the HistoryTag website and register. That’s it. Then you can upload pictures of where you went, what you did, who you did it with…to the HistoryTag website. So those memories get saved. Not a big deal right now. But when you look back, it will become a big deal. And yes, the History Tag is a bit like a blank iPod, but as you add more and more music it becomes more and more interesting. Or in our case, the more memories you add to it, the more fascinating it becomes. So if in the future, your jeans get handed down, or end up in a second hand jeans shop, their memories will go along with them. Your memories won’t be forgotten which we think is good. And that’s the genius of the history tag. And that’s the genius of making a product to last. It will give our objects more meaning. It will mean we throw things away less. Because it attaches the stories to the objects that we love.

Regarding mobile technology, Prada’s iPhone app, The IOU Project allows At Hiut, we want to have ideas that no one has had. We are customers to upload a photo of them not here to make up the numbers. We don’t want to play wearing the garment ensuring the product’s small just because we have started out small. We want to change the denim industry. We want to be creators can see their design being worn history makers as well as jean makers’’. (Hieatt (2010) in around the world. Stylus 2010: Online). From a brand perspective it creates a product journey from what is generally a second hand clothes industry it could have postive one-way, impersonal experience (Stylus, results in encoraging people to re-use, with emotional 2010). attachment to a garment being important for many thrift shopppers, through a sence of discovery. If this aspect was implemented into the 48

FIG 30. Huit denim 2011

ONSUMERS Whos cares?

5.0 Why don’t consumers care? Market research shows that consumers care about products being responsibly produced; but when they shop they buy the same goods they always did. It is called the 3:30 paradox: 30 per cent of customers call themselves ethical shoppers but only 3 per cent are (Skapinker 2012: online). A 2010 study in the Journal of Business Ethics stated that consumers gave market researchers what they believed were socially acceptable answers before going off and buying what they wanted. They concluded that consumers do intend to be ethical but, when they get to the shops it proves too difficult (Skapinker 2012: online). This is the intentions-behaviour gap. An opposing view by Oxfams blogger Ceri Heathcote states that ‘second hand clothes are brought by anyone who cares about the environment or wants to get better quality for their money’ (Heathcote 2012, appendix: 9). She thought that the buying of second hand clothes for some is purely ethical, but further research suggests that for many the motivational drivers are affordability paired with individualism rather than a generic look led by high street fashion. The focus group also gave insight into what people do with their old clothes, Another participant stated ‘I can’t be bothered to take it to a charity shop,’ (Owen 2012, appendix: 14) This statement clearly

represents a commercial incentive to recycle clothes, with a lack of an ethical motivation to change behaviour. The graph below shows how many people think recycling clothes is a good idea (Online Questionnaire, appendix:13). Although 59.1% agree, both secondary and primary research proves their actions dont reflect this.

FIG 31. Infomation graphic ‘ Who thinks recycling clothes is a good

idea?’ Own Image

5.1 Gender

FIG 32 Information Graphic ‘ Do you recucle clothes’ Graph. Own Image

Women differ from men in their shopping This initally shows that men are less aware of habits, typically spending twice as much as trends and feel less responsibility to recycle men on average per year (Mintel 10, 2012). ‘But I’m speaking as a male Evidentiary support So given the surplus of who is not subjective to also came from the second hand market, questionnaire results becoming a brand victim like why is it not worn by (Questionnaire, the females are because the males? Well, they are 2012: appendix 6), marking campaigns conducted less fashion conscious which showed that than women (Mintel very often are playing to the men are less likely to 9, 2011). One male insecurities of the opposite sex; recycle clothes overall. participant aged 31 The graph above insecurities that males do not interviewed, says he demonstrates this. necessarily possess.’(Irankni 2012, does not shop second hand because he appendix 11). thinks it is ‘nasty’, and continues to say

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The most useful variables in understanding consumer recycling are motivation, ability and opportunity to recycle. Consumers are more likely to recycle when they perceive that the benefits outweigh the cost, including money, time and effortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Macinnis 2010:294)

FIG 33. Blue Window’ (1998) by Michael Carson

5.2 Consumer Behaviour Consumers must break old waste disposal habits and develop new recycling habits in order to create an impact. Increasing accessibility and awareness of the impact of re-usage in a positive way could be the potential market place(Macinnis 2010:294). In hindsight, if they believe that their efforts will have an impact they would be more motivated to recycle. But why are we still not changing? ‘People not wanting other people to wear their clothes, and a lack of information as to just how easy and important textile recycling is’ (Caine’s (2008) In Mintel 7, 2008: Online) are key factors. People are getting bored and lazier as everything from technology to fashion becomes easier to access. ‘I have taken my stuff to one of those bins at the tip that recycle clothing, but that was only once because I had a car. I wouldn’t do it now because it would be so much effort carrying it all there! I’d probably sell some stuff that I think will make over a tenner on Ebay and just throw the rest out in bin bags cause it’s just easier.’ (Ginti 2012: appendix:14)

Consumers live in a complex world of competing considerations’ (Harrison, 2005.‘The ethical consumer’:49)

5.3 The Consumer Motivations Charbonneau(2008), suggests that there are different types of consumers. 3 of which are: 1. Personal responsibility consumer is ‘the conscious and deliberate choice to make certain consumption choices based on personal and moral beliefs’. 2. The socially conscious consumer is one who ‘takes into account the public consequences of consumption’. 3. The responsible consumer who ‘resources with respect to the global human population’. People that recycle clothes are, ‘Creative individuals; ones that experiment with their outfits and style, students, individuals that choose to live a frugal life, the elderly, and those that choose to do so for environmental reasons.’ Says Erica Louise (Louise 2012, Appendix 10)

FIG 34. CHEAP DATE ZINE 1994

(consumer 1 ) The bargain hunter positive sign for all clothing retailers, from top-end designer labels through to charity shops. ‘On every spend level this potentially profitable group can be lured with the underlying messages of cheap style and trend.’ (Mintel 6, 2010). ‘Price sensitivity or price consciousness has been found to be a positive predictor of second-hand shopping behaviour (Guiot and Roux 2010:online).

Tapping into the mind set of getting more for your money is Vouchercloud, Groupon and price comparison sites which exploit the idea of a bargain. The Smartphone app Vouchercloud, provides vouchers and discount codes which can be used in 5,000 leading outlets across the UK covering a range of top brands (Mintel 3, 2010). Primark and Newlook are also successful brands, offering their clients the latest fashion trends at low price appealing to those on tight budget. Slightly pricier Topshop, offers a 10% student discount whilst running competitions to win shopping sprees at their chain. This is a

Brands have explored this consumer behaviour and have started to create more affordable sub-brands that feature ranges from well-known designers that appeal 57

‘For luxury marketers, responsible prosperity is becoming a powerful tool’(Clark 2011, WGSN).

(Consumer 2) The modern consumer

to both budgeters and non-budgeters. A recent example of this is Stella McCartney, Roberto Cavalli and Viktor & Rolf all creating more affordable ranges for H&M (Verdict 2012:online).

The new consumer is more likely to experiment with trends and brands. They have been buying into fast and throw away fashion for years, but Chandaria.K. and Tooke.G (2012) at the market research information and consultancy division (Kantar WorldPanel), demonstrate that consumers are now demanding quality over quantity.

Zines such as ‘Cheap Date’, launched the UK 1997, is aimed at young people with less money such as students. The Zine uses alternative dress to promote taste makers and iconic trends, signifying that price doesn’t have to compromise. ‘We all make some duff decisions, but at least they were cheap, and then there are the triumphs’(Garnett 2012:online). This is a positive sign for the industry by appealing to those that want to express an individual style inexpensively, and so being less likely to shop commercially. This potentially enables vintage, and charities shops to harness a specific consumer.

According to WGSN’s responsible prosperity report ‘A new breed of consumer is demanding brands that are both luxurious and sustainable in order to justify their postrecession spend. In addition the contemporary consumer of today is more connected, engaged, price aware and understanding of market dynamics, making them harder to please and difficult to fool. 58

FIG 35. Lana Del ray, Modern Consumer profile.. Own Image

FIG 36. Fashion Evolution Logo

(Consumer 3) The Ethical Consumer In contrast, consumer awareness and concerns with issues like sustainability and ethical production and trading is higher than it has ever been (Mintel 1, 2009). However field experiments have shown that many consumers can’t afford to be ethical (Kempen 2009: Online). ‘As concern for the environment becomes an accepted part of lifestyle issues, sustainability challenges individuals to work together as socially responsible partners’ (Stylus 2011: Online). In addition people are becoming more cynical about where their donations go; an overwhelming 88% of American, British and Canadian adults said they are sometimes suspicious about how much of the money they donate actually goes to people in need, as opposed to management and administrative costs (The trend report (2007) In the Financial Times 2007). This signifies people’s lack of trust within the industry and proposes that reassurance methods need to be implemented in to order to encourage recycling overall. Moreover, according to a Marks & Spencer’s ethical consumer report, 27% of people buy ‘ethical’ clothing if is its easy and doesn’t 60

require significant personal change or sacrifice. In contrast 38% are increasingly concerned about environmental and social issues but don’t believe that they personally can make a difference (An ethical fashion industry, 2011: Online). This is significant because it shows that people want to be ethical but have not yet got considerable personal motivation to do so. Environmental concerns appear to be of less importance. Sweatshop labor is an emerging concern for shoppers when making apparel purchase decisions (Shen 2012: Online). The celebrity Sean diddy made news round the world in 2003 when he was charged for having his ‘Sean John’ line made in illegal inhumane sweatshops, with wages as low as 65 cents an hour (Weisbrot 2003: Online). This created great media attention which led to a campaign against questionable labour practices in the apparel industry as well as a lawsuit being filed against 18 well-known US retailers. These examples demonstrate the rise of the ethical consumer with change being driven by patrons, giving potential for second hand brands to express their concerns to further gain consumer admiration.

FIG 37. Luxury Consumer Profile. Own Image

USTAINABILITY Why should we care?

6.0 Isn’t time we cottoned on?

Denim is made compleatly from cotton making the whole trend an environmental debate with garment conversion processes such as Sandblasting being extremely unethical. Despite this, some brands such as Dolce and Gabbana refuse to ever give up processes such as sandblasting. This is due to the lack of incentive from buyers with their profit margin and consumer loyalty remaining high, indicating that change has to be consumer driven. Perhaps the rise of

‘Cotton is the worlds ‘dirtiest crop’ (Hunter 2012:

Online).

FIG 38. Cotton 2010 by The grren Elephant.

the new ethical consumer will encourage this change? Almost all the cotton grown is shipped to China once it is harvested so this transfer of materials adds to the carbon footprint (Fashion Futures, 2025: Online). Cotton drained the Aral Sea in central Asia, helped to empty the River Indus in Pakistan and destroy the Nile in Egypt.

FIG 39. Satellite image of the Aral Sea’’ 2010

‘It takes 25 bathtubs of water to grow enough cotton for one t-shirt. Its cultivation uses up 35 million hectares of farmland, an area the size of Germany, and soaks up a tenth of all the world’s pesticides.’ Fred Pearce, senior environment correspondent 2008 ((Pearce, 2008: Online)

6.1 Sustainable Fashion

FIG 40. Newspaper dress 2012. By Gary Harvey

‘This trend is the germ of something that will last for years … for many consumers, sustainability is the new status symbol’ Nicola Clark, Responsible prosperity: luxury marketing’s new focus report (Clark 2011, WGSN) Sustainability is beginning to saturate the market through a number of media channels such as the success of the TV documentaries Life and Blue planet. The fashion world mildly expresses its concerns through elements such as Chanel’s spring/ summer catwalk underwater show 2011, and Steven Meisel’s water and oil photo shoot in Vogue Italia (fig 41) which are key examples of a new sustainable state of mind. A ground-breaking example of rising sustainable fashion innovations is ‘Fish Feast’, launched in 2011. A durable material made solely from fish scales that is treated under heat and pressure to create a viable alternative to plastic and inspired by the huge amounts of fish-scale waste generated by the fishing industry every year (Stylus, 2011). Could it be possible to ethically design clothes from materials as natural as this for example? ‘Likewise in search of a healthier lifestyle, a new trend has evolved where consumers are opting to decorate their homes using natural toxin-free products such as plant-

based materials and safer synthetics. This is generating the new desire of a non-toxic home’ (Stylus 2012: Online). Consequently, this signifies slow change in consumer behaviors with brand innovation creating positive signs for the growth of sustainability, turning the whole movement into lifestyle. Furthermore, currently un-developed smart nature has the potential to generate sustainable natural materials with a low environmental impact in the future (N.V, 2012).

‘Smart fabrics present new challenges and create new aesthetics and sensibilities. Seamless garments offer a comfortable fit; partly finished garments may be bought and then ‘finished’ by a local micro-manufacturer based at a local supermarket; dyeing a garment may be available at the ‘touch of a button’ and be another programme offered on a domestic washing machine. How can the needs of the ‘green consumer’ be met?’ (Stylus , 2012: Online) 66

FIG 41&42&43 Water and oil 2012. By Steven Meisel. In Vogue

REEN WASHING A new era.

FIG 43: Eco Couture 2010

FIG 44. H&M-Conscious-Collection Campaign Image 2011

7.0 The only way is ethics

‘Growth is being driven by strong consumer So how are brands tapping into the ethical demands for fairly produced and sustainable consumer? Recently a new era of greenwashing has evolved. clothing, and that demand Consumers are beginning is being met by growing ‘If consumers judge to be the drivers of change, numbers of ethical brands, that companies are and so brands are starting and now increasingly joined to adhere to their needs by by the high street majors. The behaving badly, linking positive environmental other vitally important driver they can and will impacts with the desire of is the fast-growing provision bring them to them affordable fashion. H&M is of genuinely fashionable to their knees…’ a prime example, making and stylish ranges, showing (Harrison 2005:22) 25 million pairs of shoes how ethical can mean using water based glue looking good as well as (H&M’s Conscious Actions feeling responsible.’ (Mintel 1, 2009 ‘Ethical Sustainability Report, 2011: Online). clothing-UK’: Online) 71

7.1 Labelling Through the implementation of H&M’s cotton conscious collection it has become the number one user of organic cotton globally (H&M 2012, press release). However regardless of its success, for many, the extent to which buying an ethical brand implies an inconvenience or a ‘product compromise’, e.g. in terms of quality, style, and range of options available ect. Through future analysis it can be concluded that the decision to buy from an ethical brand compared to a commercial alternative is influenced by: • Brand awareness • The importance of other product/ brand criteria • Price (Co-operative Bank 2007: Online)

‘Long term innovative labelling could be implemented to increase awareness for consumers and sorting. Clothing labelling giving environmental information to consumers such as organic or ‘green’ cotton content could also help increase sustainable consumption of textiles.’ (Morley 2006: Online) In 2009 boots reduced their carbon footprint of its Botanics range by 20

FIG 45. ’don’t destroy what you came to enjoy’’ 2012. by Quicksilver

retailers are looking to increase their local sourcing as the ‘Made in the UK’ tags come back into fashion’ (Saunter 2012, WGSN).

per cent, through packaging design and distribution methods (Hill 2009: Online). This has enabled the company differentiate and inform consumers what the benefits of their product are on the environment, increasing their CSR. A leading example of the rise of eco labelling is the Quicksilver and Roxy ‘No Water Sucks’ Europe-wide campaign which continues to promote eco products. These are distinctive by their recycled label tags. When the garment reaches the end of its life, it can be returned to a Quicksilver store for recycling and the lifecycle starts again (Poldner 2012: online). This demonstrates the notion of “responsible prosperity” and proves a powerful marketing tool for brands by reaching those that want to be ethical without considerable change in lifestyle. ‘UK 73

Levi Strauss also attracted universal applause when they began adding “Recycle this” to its denim care tags (Stylus 2012), a positive change regarding the ecological issues that come with denim production. Correspondingly, some brands such as Sainsbury’s have tried to use this as a way of advertising but been caught out. “I’m not a Plastic Bag” line in 2007, a limited edition cotton bag marketed to reduce consumers’ use of plastic bags. However media soon realised that the bags were made in China using conventional cotton (Stylus 2012).

FIG 46. Topshop Reclaim to Wear. Nelma Kalonji in Dazed Digital

7 .2 Topshop Case Study ‘More environmentally friendly fabrics are being used at highstreet level and being applied to an increasing range of apparel products, proving that sustainability does not have to compromise style’

This season sees Topshop collaborating with ‘From Somewhere’, the pioneering eco-fashion label (Melius 2012, WGSN). Topshop’s pledge to Fairtrade can be seen in its mainline Moto denim range with some styles being made using Fairtrade cotton. Top Shop’s London store has around six ethical fashion labels and a genuine vintage section (Laskar 2012, V&A: Online). It could be considered whether in the future the volume of eco collections will increase. Possibly they could incorporate sustainable materials in their main product ranges. Topshop also have a genuine vintage section in its main London Store which is extremely popular. FIG 47. Topshop ready to wear collection. Bibby Sowray in Fashion Telegraph

(Melanie park (2012) In WGSN, 2012:Online)

UXURY

Blurring the boundaries

FIG 48. YSL new vintage III label. 2012

8.0 Barriers have started to collapse Vuitton have started reproducing and reinterpreting vintage clothing (for its 2010-2011 winter collection) (Cervellon, 2012:956), along with Yves Saint Laurent making a new contribution to sustainable luxury fashion by reworking archived fabrics into classic and iconic pieces. Their ‘New Vintage III’ line is available now in limited, numbered editions at the YSL flagship boutiques in Paris, London and New York. This proposes that people’s motivation to wear second hand luxury clothes is mainly fuelled by fashion trends and the need to feel accountable. In recognising new consumer demands, designers have started to take the leap. One

It has been highlighted that many successful brands aspire to reflect consumer concerns and aspirations for a better world, and this combination represents the tipping point. ‘We have seen a shift during the economic crisis from luxury brands being more overt about their heritage and craft skills and highlighting their charitable and social responsibility associations.’ (Johnson (2011) in Saunter, WGSN 2011: Online) Following the recent fashion driven consumer craze, several high-end brands such as Ralph Lauren have started hunting for vintage pieces and selling them in their flagship stores, side by side with new collections. Fashion houses, such as Louis

FIG 49. YSL new vintage III shirt 2012

‘Overcoming information barriers and lack of communication between designers and the waste treatment industry could be an area ready for intervention.’ (Morley 2006: Online)

8.1 Designer Influences example is Vivienne Westwood, who has used her designs to make political and ethical statements in the past and previously expressed anti consumerist views which may seem a contradiction to selling luxury fashion. She has launched a new range of ethical bags for A/W ’11-12’ in collaboration with The Ethical Fashion Programme using only recycled materials (Plank 2012, WGSN). Additionally, British fashion designer Katherine Hamnett is seen as one of the first designers to combine environmental involvement with style. Since 1989, Hamnett has been developing her ‘organic’ and ethical fashion line, and is recognised for her T-shirts sporting slogans such as ‘Clean Up Or Die’ and ‘STAY ALIVE IN 85’, which are on display at the V&A Museum. Katherine told the V&A umbrella team ‘I care but licensees don’t give a damn. In fact one told me, ‘‘If you carry on with this ethical and environmental shit, you can take your collection and fuck off ’’ (Hamnett (2011) in Franklin 2011: Online). Nonetheless the increase of eco-friendly designers could be extremely beneficial and potentially lead to new tribes.

FIG 50 Save the future 2012

8.2 Campaigns Currently high end brands are beginning to focus on in store environments as oppose to social influence when launching marketing campaigns. The UK department store Selfridges is a leading example through the launch of Project Ocean 2012 aimed to raise awareness of endangered fish. Typography on the window reads “Would you eat a Panda?”. Alannah Weston, creative director of Selfridges, says 68% of consumers would like to make greener, sustainable choices, but they don’t know how to do it. Selfridges’ commitment to the campaign is a long-term one (Stylus, 2011: Online). FIG 51. Estethica. 2012 By The British fashion council.

The most noticeable development in the luxury industry is the support for a more sustainable approach. London’s Fashion Week’s ethical event Estethica continues to grow in popularity since its launch in 2007. The event provides exhibition space for thirteen eco-conscious fashion labels and designers such as Lily Coles’s North Circular line; ‘Ethical practices are far removed from mainstream fashion, luxury brands are paying more and more attention to what’s going on at the Ethical Fashion Show. And Paris, as a global fashion capital, is no small stage’ (Pirolli 2012: online). Likewise

in 2007 Brazil’s Fashion Week introduced “e-fabrics” or recycled fabrics through a range of elegant evening gowns, and continues to do so through other designers and collections. There is no doubt that the fashion industry is attempting to respond to the consumer demand. Could this type of recognition continue merge the commercial and ethical motivations to shop second hand?

rends and Tribes

One mans trash, is another mans treasure

9.0 From thrift to fashion ‘For the very specific case of clothes, it is not necessarily true that second-hand clothes are more cost effective than new clothes, especially when they are vintage. In addition, most consumers, including vintage experts, do not have a reference price for second-hand and vintage pieces, as it depends on the birth period and rarity of the piece.’ (Guiot and Roux, (2010) In James 2012: Online)

FIG 52. Vintage Warehouse Promotion sign 2012. Own Image

9.1 Vintage There are growing indications that vintage is a unique and valuable classification of second-hand clothing (Matsumoto, (2000) in Charbonneau 2008: Online). ‘Vintage is a term used to describe clothing between 20 and 100 years old. Items before 1920 are usually considered antique’ (Walkley 2005:25). Since the end of millennium, with popular movies and television series such as Mad Men in the 1960s, street style has been inspired by vintage design. Such appreciation of the style has created collectables such as Warholinspired paper and cardboard pop clothing which are clear examples of the cheap and cheer of its day developing into a collectable vintage treasures (Cervellon 2012: Online). The ‘vintage style’ has developed from a stigma. It used to be seen to clothe a quirky arty individual, but and has increasingly become more well-known and mainstream through its increased availability and profitable business associations that come with the misconceptions of the trend.

FIG 53. Jewellery box at A vintage Obsession 2012. Own image

FIG 54. Shoes at Cow 2012. Own Image

‘The interconnections

between clothes as objectively worn and the subjective sensation of wearing them and seeing them being worn indicates a possible variety of identities. While clothes certainly can be worn to emulate and convey a status or rank in affirmation or disguise they may also have other ends. In today’s multicode societies, clothes inhibit as well as facilitate communication between highly fragmented social groups.’ (ASH 1996:219-20).

Primary Research helps to demonstrate why people buy vintage (Creative Methods 2012 ‘Vox Pox’: appendix 16). Key answers were: • I like having something that no one else has to help express my personal style • Because its cheap and you can always find something that might surprise you •

Looks original when paired with high street items

•

I love floral

•

Nostalgic

This research conveys the idea that many younger shoppers buy vintage to create an personal style, establishing that a sense of individualism is important.

FIG 55. Vintage Means Pre-loved

However the trend has led to the confusion of ‘what really is vintage?’ Boutiques and ‘vintage stores’ seem to be conning those less knowledgeable of the trend into buying a vintage inspired item and over pricing them creating false value. Did they buy that item because it is vintage of because it looks vintage? A clear example of this if Camden market (London Case Study 2012, appendix 4).

what they did with their old clothes, one participant from the focus group said, ‘I Ebay them all. Reworked vintage especially goes for loads of money on Ebay. I got £200 last year when I sold all my vintage stuff on there. It’s effort but is worth it if your selling vintage or Topshop items’ (Focus Group 2012, appendix: 14). Likewise the increased mainstream appeal of vintage clothing has crossed over into the bridal wear market, offering wedding dresses that are wholly unique with history. Events such as the London’s Vintage Wedding Fair 2011 have helped to promote the trend. It demonstrates that Vintage has also become a lifestyle.

Celia Birtwell for Topshop used ‘60’s- 70’s vintage’ to inspire collections of high price, however buyers feel they have the same unique and special qualities as that of real vintage garments and so pay the over inflated prices. Online shopping sites such as Ebay and Asos have also begun to be influenced by the desire for vintage. On one search on clothes and accessories alone, Ebay pops up 21,591 entries under vintage for potential buyers (The meaning of vintage, 2007: Online). When asking participants 86

FIG 56. 90s Style Long Sleeve Rainbow Tie Dye Crop Top. Asos MarketPlace

‘Purchasing second hand clothes can be a distinction of taste or it can be about value in the sense of a ‘bargain’. Equally it can simply be about financial necessity. Second hand spaces (such as boot fairs) have meanings that differentiate them drastically from first hand spaces and they can be seen to be a system of reorganisation of shopping which critical to the creation of ‘value’. Space matters not only in creating the context for value creation through transactions but in constituting the limits of these second hand worlds’ (Hansen 2000:5)

9.2 Retro Tribe Retro mainly refers to sixties’ and seventies causal wear and has been trending through sportswear this year. Retro shops, like car boot sales are founded on the clear difference between first and second hand in terms of value. ‘Retro shops create the opportunity for the consumer to explore the culture of the self-stylized ‘alternative’ style originating from the hippie sub culture’ (Walkley 2005: 136). A successful brand which represents the style is ROKIT (London Case Study 2012, appendix 4). Social Space is also important when referring to a second hand shopping experience. 87

Vintage Inspired These magazine spreads are a clear example of how vintage and retro trends and styling has come back into fashion. Lady gaga (1920’s styling) for Vogue’s semptember issue 2012, fifites pin up styling for S/S Harpers Bazar Singapore May 2012, and icon Alice in Wonderland wearing classic vintage lace for LOVE magazine S/S 2011

FIG 57. Lady gaga for Vogue’s September issue 2012

FIG 59. Ellie Tanning. LOVE magazine 2011

FIG 58. Harpers Bazar Cover Singapore May 2012

Retro Inspired

FIG 60. Beyounce for Dazed and confused A/W 2011

Superstar Beyounce for Dazed and confused A/W 2011

7.3 Up cycling and DIY fashion Another deemed fashionable way to recycle is up cycling, receiving extra ‘street cred’ by addressing the many social challenges that the fashion industry faces. As material is readily available it slows down the factory’s supply demands with immediate gain in terms of recycling. ‘A small proportion of women make their own clothes, however, this appears to be a growing trend’ (Mintel 8 2012, Womens fashion Lifestyle’s: Online). An example of this is TRAID remade, Textile Recycling for Aid International Development, a UK fashion label for men and women that turns unwanted clothes into one off hand-made pieces with all proceeds going to fight poverty. Traid has 11 shops in the UK, attracting celebrity endorsement from Lindsey Lohan, balancing its philanthropic nature with cutting edge fashion (Style Sight, 2012: Online). From the questionnaire it can be concluded that 20-29 year olds up cycle the most. Could this be further utilised perhaps through a range of industries such as the craft industry, making it is an easy, fun and creative way to recycle? Could brands also organise collaborations with the arts and craft industry to help promote fashion DIY, as well as playing on the importance of costume and craft within the drama industry to motivation people?

FIG 61 & 62. DIY. Material Therapy

HE FUTURE

Every decision has a consequence

FIG 63. White Rose chalk board Nottingham 2012. Own Image

10 . The Future of Recycling Clothes Over the decades, the importance of eco friendly products has continued to fluctuate. ‘This has stemmed from eco-integrate versions of well known products which have the same considered aesthetic and function but boasts valuable eco credentials’ (Style Sight, 2013). In response, Style Sight reports that 2013 shows a positive rise in a new consumer, the eco consumer; predicting that ethical, sustainable and thoughtful consumerism will become the ‘new norm’. The rise of recyclable clothing labels and the increase of details being given on the labels has cause brands such as MADEBY to extend throughout the UK (Saunter 2012, WGSN), combining many consumer demands together allowing them to feel content and connected with their garment. This will result in greater brand trust with transparency being key for both companies and consumers, creating room in the near future for brands too improve their image through integrity-based marketing(Stylus 2012). Smart businesses are already starting to do this by create new green marketing campaigns to replace established credentials. Savvy consumers are purchasing fewer ‘new’ goods, finding continued value in old or used items (Fashion Futures, 2025). Buyand-sell forums are also growing. Large companies are starting to introduce new product and material recycling programs and this will continue to grow over the next few years ‘The future eco consumer wants fairness and social justice’ (Style sight, 2013). 93

Ceri Heathcote Oxfam’s ethical fashion blogger states her predict for the future of pre-loved clothes, ‘I think eventually the cost of new clothing could be forced to rise by shortages and the global economy, then pre loved clothing could become much more popular and highly sought after. However the popularity of pre loved clothing will always be determined by supply, and in order for there to be a supply of second hand clothing there will still need to be plenty of new clothing made. I think whether people charity shop or not could be determined by how much time they have. Enterprises which make charity shops more accessible like the Oxfam online shop will help to increase popularity’ (Heathcote 2012, appendix: 9).

The UK has seen a rise in a new demographic. According to WGSN responsible prosperity report, the ethical consumerism market is forecast to continue to increase by 40.5% between 2012 and 2016. New innovations and the introduction of ethical products into the mainstream retail market are expected to drive market growth over the next few years, as will consumer attitudes (Key Note 2012: Online).

Furthermore from the pest devised, it is evident that technological advances are beginning to create more complex and useful fabrics. In the future one garment could represent the values of three garments using smart fabrics, and the advance of sustainable materials and 3D printing could completely change the fashion industry as we know it. In turn would recycling cease to be relevant at all if one item had multiple purposes? Perhaps synthetic fibres will be developed to mimic the properties of a material such as cotton.

‘This, plus improving availability, is helping to drive up sales of ethical clothing as one aspect of that wider movement.’

‘These 3D printers can build a square foot of wall in less than 20 seconds’ (Quirk 2012: Online)

Stylus predicts this as a huge trend in the near future of 2013 with some brands already beginning to innovate. In turn Verity Mason, the owner of ‘A Vintage Obsession’ Nottingham gives her view on the future of second hand clothes; ‘I think it’s going to carry on being popular but I do think because there are so many vintage shops opening now, people need to start specialising and offering something special in store instead of just to get people there’ (Mason 2012, appendix 7). Charity shops in particular could consider this in order to differentiate.

(Department for International Development, 2011: Online)

FIG 64. Overalls 2013 Stylus

Future trends also illustrate that the growing use of social media will become more commonly used as an advertising tool for non-profitable organisations, due to their low advertising budget. This increase of awareness could lead to a boom in the

FIG 65. vintage inspired s/s 2013 Stylus

recycling clothes industry with more people being influenced to change their behaviour. The competition from profitable organisations may then increase due to the success of the industry. To elaborate further, the market in 50 years times will potentially become more saturated with brands wanting to improve their company social responsibility and follow demands of the ever growing eco conscious consumer. In terms of Fashion trends, overalls materialised will be a key item on the S/S 13 runways, with a nod to each of its various permutations that emerged throughout the 20th century. From 30s-era work wear to the 50s playsuits and 90s grunge, overalls have long been a stylish yet practical addition to Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wardrobes. A variety of new silhouettes and material s bring a contemporary update to this cyclically popular staple for 2013 (Style Sight, 2013).

ONCLUSION

Saving money while saving the planet is surely enough?

FIG 66. White rose accessories Nottingham 2012 Own Image

11. Conclusion luxury brands that may to be reluctant to change policies, for example globalisation or clothing manufacture. This suggests a drive from consumers has to be prominent in order to implement a change. Accessibility could drive this reinforcement.

The report is set out to consider if recycling clothes could be used as a medium to encourage environmental and ethical cultural change. The key factors established throughout the document build upon the consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s motivations to recycle and the impact these motivations have on brands and organisations. It was confirmed through trend forecasting that there is a need and want for new approaches regarding recycling clothes, however a lack of familiarity and knowledge inhibits a physical change. It has been highlighted that recent tribes have encouraged this industry to blossom, but regrettably reasons are mainly due to commercial motivations. It can therefore be suggested that organisations should advertise to a particular demographic. To elaborate further, the danger of the industry lies in the commitment from high street and 99

This research document concludes that younger women and students in particular, are motivated to acquire and wear secondhand clothing primarily for the thrill of bargain hunting whilst enjoying a sense of nostalgia. Acquisition of obtaining a fashionable unique item through vintage and retro trends is also a driver. The recession also bought a sense of resourcefulness and creativity to consumers. It created potential monetary value from goods they no longer want, evolving from garage sales, to Ebay auctions to online swapping. Consumers are, by default, combining environmental benefits with self-

‘Consumers are more likely to sit up and listen to retailers if there are incentives, rewards or long-term benefits for them. Retailers need to make green choices easier and more affordable’.

(Mintel 2009, ‘Ethical and Green Retailing’)

interest rewards. Findings also indicate that women believe recycling clothing is a good idea; and so it is suggested that the implementation of a brand or service should combine these aspects. This will help to steer the industry in to an age of recycling clothes as a way of life through increasing peoples the knowledge of our every changing environment. Motivations primarily rest on our need for uniqueness through our quest of self expression paired with affordable fashion.

The recommendations in this report will be explored and implemented in the next stage.

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ECOMMENDATIONS

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FIG 67. Brand Logo,. Own image

Executive summary The finding of this report suggest there is a gap in the market for a new recycling clothes brand or scheme that incorporates consumer demands for an easier way to recycle clothes. Although there is currently a lack of awareness, the growing interest and concern of ethical and environmental issues discovered in the report is a growing trend and one that needs to be addressed. Policies addressed in the PEST suggest positivity around sustainable materials and recycling. This is because saving money is an important part of our generation. It therefore raises the question, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Is there a lack of awareness of the need to recycle clothes within the industry, or is there just a lack of incentive?â&#x20AC;&#x2122; In relation to primary research results, it is demonstrated that current drivers are primarily commercial, with cheap fashion being a main priority. Popular fashion tribes such of that of vintage is a positive starting point, and can be utilized by linking the trend with the awareness of economical issues.

The success of the online platform Asos marketplace, highly establishes the desire for new independent vintage boutiques within the market. It also addresses peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s desire to sell and buy second hand clothes for commercial reasons. This, in turn, suggests that the demand for eco friendly clothes could be tackled through a new, simple recycling clothes brand or system. A simpler and more connected website than Ebay and Asos could be the potential market place, with charitable collaborations being a suitable way to connect with the new ethical consumer. For every item of clothing donated, a voucher or discount code will be given back to the consumer to use within other ethical or environmentally friendly brands and collections. Voucher worth, will depend on the value of the item(s) donated to the brands online store. Consumers can also shop from the store which in turn encourages recycling.

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E- Commerce According to Asos, 80% of sellers are using the reselling site to fund their new wardrobes. ‘In 2011 the top selling boutique turnover was £50,000 and the top selling individual earner £10,000’ (Stylus, 2012, Online). This shows the potential triumph of a new company within this industry. The service or brand could differentiate itself in a number of ways. Firstly, the potential for an easier way to recycle clothes from home to gain something back is an incentive in itself. Online shopping has become a key activity for anyone with web access; 90% of those with internet connections say they have bought something in the last year

(Mintel 11, 2011). The rise of e-commerce is still in the early stages of development; additionally it will gain share of all retail spending over the next few years whatever happens to the economy, showing great potential for an online brand. Consumers think recycling clothes is inconvenient(Barnett 2011), and so by solving this issues, it creates a gap in the market for a new scheme or service. Through an online platform, consumers could buy and sell second hand clothes from home. Below is a website mock up design.

FIG 69. Website mock up 2012. Own image

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Why should this be implemented now? • Fashion e-commerce is booming. Consumers’ appetite for online fashion is growing with eight in ten women buying clothing online (Mintel 2012, Fashion Online – UK: Online).

• Second hand clothing is becoming more popular as people begin to recognise the real costs of fast fashion. •

Stronger consumer demand for fairly produced and sustainable clothing is being met by growing numbers of ethical brands, and now increasingly joined by the high street majors (Plank 2012, Communication Strategy WGSN: Online)

• Mintel conservatively estimates that the market for ethical clothing, excluding charity shops and secondhand sales, is worth around £175 million (Mintel 7 2008, Ethical and Green Retailing: Online) • The power of ‘word of mouth’ is stronger online, with an estimated 5 million people reviewing a brand online (Mintel 2012, Fashion Online – UK: Online). • The desire for a unique ,and individual style is growing.

• The recent recession has caused everyone to think about their spending habits, and most have had to adjust or cut their clothing budgets accordingly. ‘Cost Effective Fashion is key’ (Mintel 3 2010, Impact of the recession –UK: Online)

FIG 68. Pastels. Blogspot

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FIG 70. Remain Simple. habitualbliss tumblr

Selling The donation of clothes will be conducted through a free postal service that delivers free envelopes or parcel boxes provided by the brand. If the brand wants to successfully promote recycling, a consideration of economical packaging must be considered. Collection could also be a route the brand may choose to go down if their client has lots of items to donate of a certain value. Nonetheless initially this limits the brand to the UK market however wider distribution

methods could be later discusses if brand profit was high enough to make this justifiable. The value of a garment would have to be assessed prior to donation. This will ensure the customer receives an appropriate voucher to avoid disappointed. This can be predicted on the website before buyers commit. This will be further executed through website design in the implementation stage.

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Collaborations The impact of Marks and Spencer’s ‘Look behind the label’ advertising campaign, created a level of interest in ethical labelling (Smithers, 2012: online). Marks and Spencer’s is in partnership with Oxfam, encourages customers to hand over an old item of clothing every time they buy a new one. Taking inspiration from their ‘shwopping’ campaign in terms of getting back something from what you donate, consumers will receive vouchers, discounts or store credit back for brands (or the brands itself) that have similar brand attributes. This is a great promotional strategy for the brand. Such could include H&M’s cotton conscious collection, Marks and Spencer’s, and Topshops eco Moto range. Designers are increasingly starting to create more affordable and ethical ranges, therefore exclusive offers for these collections, as well as offers for sub brands of high street and designer collaborations would be relevant. Subsequently this would create publicity around new offers and will keep the brand up to date with fashion, appealing to the fashion conscious consumer.

FIG 71. ’H&M conscious collection 2012 H&M.

FIG 72. Green shoes, 2010

FIG 73. M&s Plan A, M&S with Oxfam 2012

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FIG 74 London street style, Oxford Street 2012. Own Image

Tribes

The site will be engaging, keeping up with current trends. This will be done by sectioning the website into pages such as vintage, retro, label less, and pre-loved luxury. Nevertheless, danger of alienating the non-ethical consumer has to be considered. This is why it has been established that the buying and selling of second-hand clothes is suitable.

Target Market With the consumer reaching a tipping point and shifts in consumer attitudes towards fast fashion, the brand will ‘Consumers are increasingly target a wide range of aware and responding to consumers; those who environmentally responsible want to be ethical and products. This applies across a those that already are. This will be executed by broad spectrum of consumers, combining incentive to not just the assumed ‘green recycle with getting a ‘bargain’. Therefore the elite’, giving a huge potential to engage consumers in living target audience would be mainly young female more sustainable lifestyles’ (Yates professionals ranging 2009: Online) from 19-35. This is due 108

to the need for cheap fashionable items following trends and the interest selling for again for the older sector illustrated in the questionnaire results. Insight into the brands target consumer was also gained from the first Questionnaire executed (Questionnaire 2012, appendix: 6).

Campaign â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The high rates for switching to low-energy light bulbs and reducing plastic bag usage shows that behaviour has been changed in the past. This seems to be mainly led by the use of major campaigns within big companies â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;(Mintel 9, 2009). These two factors combined, would increase consciousness of the importance of recycling and so should be considered for the next stage of implementation. The success of Envirofone, who recycle mobiles from around Europe in return for cash, states that the launch of a similar brand based on apparel is relevant. The majority of handsets donated are refurbished and sold on developing markets around the globe. The brand emphasises the importance of giving your phone a new life in developing countries around the world, offering a valuable lifeline to communities. This is significant since a connection with a product and its product journey is evidently important to consumers; this is also a potential trend. This connection could be made through a number of campaigns, projects and collaborations helping to create

more principled reasons to reuse. The Small Steps project is a charity that donates all its money to give shoes and support to children working on municipal rubbish dumps globally. Luxury second hand shoes are auctioned off with all the money going to charity. By collaborating with this charity a campaign could be made for the new brand. This creates incentive and a connection with the buyer. Research in London reveals that at least half have no idea where their rubbish goes once it is collected (Cabinet Office 2002: online). Thus, this is an area which should be considered when collaborating with organisations, to help inform and teach people of the recycling clothes process. In the future when the suggested brand expands, social media and blogging aspects could be introduced to emphasise the importance of a product journey, consequently creating a strong relationship with the consumer.

FIG 75. Envirophone 2009

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Location Location is also a key factor into brand success. Due to the high level of demand for second hand fashion in London and its â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;high fashionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; status especially in terms of the vintage trend, it would seem a missed opportunity not to launch the brand within this area. The brand will only be established in the UK due to the limiting clothes collection process. To determine how to launch this new service into the industry more research about the consumer and other brand campaigns will be undertaken in more depth in the following stage.

Competitors Ebay is a huge competitor as the e-commerce market has grown by 150% since 2005, with four in ten internet users making fashion purchases online (Mintel 5, 2012). Therefore emphasis should be on the positive effects of the business in terms of sustainability and creating ethical incentives. Due to the demanding consumer of today, relationships could be made with charitable or ethical organisations to highlight social responsibility for both the brand and the consumer. Such brands that currently do this are Marks and Spencerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and H&M. These brands are also relatable to the clientele.

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FIG 76.Postcard of Carnaby Street, London 1969

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Aims and Objectives After under-taking research throughout the report, aims and objectives were made to further break down the next stage of implementation to successfully launch an online recycling clothes brand. FIG 77. Denim at Cowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; 2012. Own Image

Aims

Objectives

- To create an online platform that allows people donate and buy second hand clothes to both the commercially driven and ethical consumer.

- For the period of 2012 to 2013, create an inspiring brand that increases awareness of the importance of recycling clothes.

- To create a brand that promotes the act of recycling clothes through trends and fashion with a big emphasis on ethical and environmental impacts. - To create a brand that competes but also differentiates with online brands such as Asos Marketplace and Ebay through consumer touch points. - To help implement other schemes into the industry. - To create a brand that appeals to a wide range of consumers.

- From the period of 2013 to 2014 collaborate with inspirational organizations. - To encourage incentives for people to recycle clothes through a number of discounts and in store vouchers potentially expanding to give promotional deals for other environmentally friendly and ethical brands. - To successfully link cheap fashion with ethical and environmental benefits. To conclude, the recommendations suggested take into account all the findings from the report and is appropriate for 2013, due to new consumer demands, rise of e-commerce and the increase of green washing by brands. 112

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List of Figures Figure 1 (front cover image). Lululiz in Vintageland, 2011. Vintage French. Available online at: http://lululizinvintageland. blogspot.co.uk/2010/09/vintage-french-lacebundle-vfln1.html Figure 2. Ju Ulvoas, 2011. Cut The [illustration] Available online at: http://society6.com/product/Cut-The_ Print?tag=illustration

Figure 11. Hannah Hussain, 22 October 2012.Oxfam Window display [photograph] Nottingham Figure 12 . Bryony Lloyd, 2013. Consumer Profile [Graphic] Available online at: http:// bryonylloyd.co.uk/2013/01/ Figure 13. Designer Forum Publication leaflet

Figure 3. Hannah Hussain, 22 October 2012. Vintage Clothes in Cow [photograph] Nottingham

Figure 14. . The vintage directory, 2012. Vintage fair advertisement [Publication] Nottingham

Figure 4. Barry Lategan, 2010. Ossie Clark Hippie dress by unknown [photograph] Available online at: http://emmapeelpants. wordpress.com/category/tasty-fellas/johntaylor/

Figure 15. Hannah Hussain, 28 October 2012. . Fur coats at Backlash vintage [photograph] Nottingham

Figure 5. Hannah Hussain, 22 October 2012. Shirts at A vintage Obsession [photograph] Nottingham

Figure 16. N/A 2009. New Delhi – India [photograph] Available online at: http:// www.weirdlyodd.com/wp-content/ uploads/2010/12/Pollution-in-new-delhi. jpg&w=960&h

Figure 6. Hannah Hussain, 22 October 2012. Figure 17. 2012, 1940’s Fabric [photograph] Available online at: http://www. Visual merchandising at Cow’ [photograph] eclecticmaker.co.uk/images/AmericanJaneNottingham ABC123-FabricPack.jpg&w=600&h=600& Figure 7. Hannah Hussain, 22 October 2012. Figure 18. Newham Asian Women’s Jackets at Cow [photograph] Nottingham Project, 2012. Love Fashion Hate Sweat Figure 8 Hannah Hussain, 8 December Shops [photograph advertisment] Available 2012. Hair styling at the Vintage Fair. online at: http://www.waronwant.org/ [photograph] Nottingham campaigns/love-fashion-hate-sweatshops Figure 9 – Hannah Hussain, 4 Novemeber 2012. Verity Mason white board [photograph] Nottingham Fig 10 – Hannah Hussain, 1 Decemeber 2012. Charlotte O’Brien White Board. [photograph] Nottingham

Figure 19& 20: Phill Shaw, 2011. Landfill Couture. [photograph]. Available online at: http://www.ecosure.com.au/uploads/ Southern%20IMCG%202010-11%20 Annual%20Report%20Ecosure.pdf. Figure 21. Dolce Gabbana, 2012. Scarlett 120

recycle clothes Graph [Infographic] Own Image

Johansson [photograph] Available online at:http://www.luxuo.com/wp-content/ uploads/2009/02/dolce__gabbana_scarlett_ johansson_01.

Figure 33. Michael Carson, 1998. Blue Window [Oil on Canvas] Available online at: http://baboesjka.tumblr.com/ post/5775720418/blue-window-by-michaelcarson

Figure 22: Fashin, 2012. Lana Del Ray for Prada â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Fake. [Photo Manipulation] Available online at: graziadaily.co.uk%2Ffa shion%2Farchive%2F2011%2F11%2F30% 2Flana-del-rey-for-prada--fake-but-great. htm&ei=46w

Figure 34. CHEAP DATE ZINE, 1994. [Book Cover] Available online at: http:// bitsandbobbins.com/blog/2007/06/05/thecheap-date-guide-to-style

Figure 23: Labour behind the Label project, 2011. An ethical Fashion Industry [Illustration] Available online at: http:// fashioninganethicalindustry.org/home/

Figure 35. Hannah Hussain, 2012. Lana Del ray Consumer profile [Image Manipulation] Figure 36. Word Press. 2010. Fashion Evolution Logo [type] Available online at: http://centreforsustainablefashion.files. wordpress.com

Figure 24: Hannah Hussain, 28 October 2012. Sequins at Oxfam Vintage [photograph] Nottingham Figure 25. Hannah Hussain, 22 October 2012. White rose sign [photograph] Nottingham

Figure 37. Hannah Hussain, 2012. Luxury Consumer profile [Image Manipulation] Figure 38. The green Elephant, 2010. Cotton [photograph] Available online at: http:// www.thegreenelephant.us/2012/04/cottonwhite-gold-of-uzbeks.html

Figure 26 Hannah Hussain, 22 October 2012. The vintage Warehouse [photograph] Nottingham Figure 27 Hannah Hussain, 4 November 2012. White rose Clothing Bank [photograph] Nottingham Figure 28. Hannah Hussain, 28 October 2012. Oxfam Sign [photograph] Nottingham Figure 29. Hannah Hussain, 28 October 2012. Oxfam Clothes Swap [Leaflet] Nottingham Figure 30. Urban Times, 2011. Huit denim [Photograph] Available online at: http:// hiutdenim.co.uk/blogs/story/5649492-thehistory-tag Figure 31. Hannah Hussain, 2012. Who thinks recycling clothes is a good idea? [Infographic] Own Image Figure 32. Hannah Hussain 2012. Do you

Figure 39. 2010. Aral Sea [Satellite image] Available online at: www.goldenassay. com/2012/09/10/the-draining-of-the-aralsea/&docid=r_gEgdycIqhUTM&imgurl Figure 40 Gary Harvey, 2012. Newspaper dress [photograph] Available online at: http://www.treehugger.com/sustainablefashion/gary-harvey-couture-fashion-witha-conscience.html Figure 41&42&43 Steven Meisel, 2012. Water and oil [photoshoot] Vogue. Available online at: http://www.styleite.com/media/ steven-meisel-water-oil-photos/ Figure 44. H&M, 2011. H&M ConsciousCollection Campaign [photo] Available online at: http://www.fashionologie.com/ HM-Conscious-Collection-2012-22632923

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Figure 45. Quicksilver, 2012. donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t destroy what you came to enjoy. [Illustration] Available online at: http://the-quiksilverinitiative.com/Blog/eur/Launch-of-theGreen-campaign&docid=jeLxJS9O24uJAM &imgurl

Figure 53. Hannah Hussain, 22 October 2012. Jewellery box at A vintage Obsession [photograph] Nottingham

Figure 46. Nelma Kalonji, 2011. Topshop Reclaim to Wear. Dazed Digital [photo]. Available online at: http://www.dazeddigital. com/fashion/article/14013/1/exclusiveshoot-topshop-reclaim-to-wear

Figure 54. Hannah Hussain, 22 October 2012. Shoes at Cow [photograph] Nottingham Figure 55. n/a Vintage Means Pre-loved [illustration]. Available online at: http:// www.theyallhateus.com/page/18/

Figure 56. Once Up on A time boutique, 2012. 90s Style Long Sleeve Rainbow Tie Dye Figure 47. Bibby Sowray, 2011. Topshop Crop Top [photograph] Available at: https:// Reclaim to Wear. Dazed Digital [photo]. Available online at: http://www.dazeddigital. marketplace.asos.com/listing/crop-tops/90sstyle-long-sleeve-rainbow-tie-dye-cropcom/fashion/article/14013/1/exclusivetop/477136 shoot-topshop-reclaim-to-wear Figure 57. Vogue, September issue 2012. Figure 48.YSL, 2012. YSL new vintage III Lady Gaga [Magazine front Cover] label [Clothing Label photo] Available online at: http://www.medesignmag.com/ fashion/2637/ysl-new-vintage-iii-collection/ gallery/10809/#contents Figure 49. YSL, 2012. YSL new vintage III shirt [Clothing Label photo] Available online at: http://www.medesignmag.com/ fashion/2637/ysl-new-vintage-iii-collection/ gallery/10809/#contents50.

Figure 58. Harpers Bazar, May Issue 2012 [Magazine front Cover] Singapore Figure 59. LOVE, S/S issue 2011. Alice in Wonderland [Magazine front cover] Australia Figure 60. Dazed and confused, A/W 2011. ID 60.BeyoncĂŠ [Magazine front cover]

Figure 50. Katherine Hammett, 2012. Save the future [photo] Available online at: http://zaramartin. blogspot.com/2012/03/save-future. html&docid=OFE7DquIP2qWvM&imgurl7

Figure 61 & 62. Material Therapy, DIY [Photo] Available online at: http://www. materialtherapy.com/search?updatedmax=2011-06-05T17%3A34%3A0004%3A00&max-results=7

Figure 51. Estethica, 2012. British fashion council [photo]. Available online at: http://www.britishfashioncouncil.co.uk/ content/1146/Estethica

Figure 63. Hannah Hussain, 22 October 2012. White Rose Chalk Board [photograph] Nottingham

Figure 52. Hannah Hussain, 22 October 2012. Vintage Warehouse sign [photograph] Nottingham

Figure 64. Stylus, 2011. Overalls 2013. [Runway Image] Available online via: http:// www.stylus.com/en/Events/2011/October/ Reports/Future-Trends-/ Figure 65. Stylus, 2012. vintage inspired S/S 122

2013 [Runway Image] Available online via: http://www.stylus.com/en/Events/2011/ October/Reports/Future-Trends-/

Figure 76. Postcard of Carnaby Street, 1969 [Postcard] Available online at: http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_ m66l3daoGj1rvlawqo1_1280.jpg

Figure 66. Hannah Hussain, 22 October 2012. White Rose Accessories [photograph] Nottingham

Figure 77. Hannah Hussain, 2 December 2012. Denim Shirts at Cow [photograph] Nottingham

Figure 67. Hannah Hussain, 2012. Brand Logo [Graphic] Figure 68. Pinterest, 2011. Pastel Colors [graphic] Available online at: http://insearchoflittlesadie.blogspot. ca/search?updated-max=201111-18T10:00:00%2B11:00&maxresults=15&start=33&by-date=false Figure 69. Hannah Hussain, 2012. Website Mock up [Graphic] Figure 70. Tumblr, 201. Remain simple [packaging] Available Online at: http:// habitualbliss.tumblr.com/post/13528466108 Figure 71. H&M, 2012. H&M conscious collection. [Advertisement] Available online at: http://www.hm.com/gb/ life?cm_mmc=adwords-_-uk-_-rr-_%2Bconscious%20%2Bcollection%2 Figure 72. Green shoes, 2010 [Advertisement] Available online at: http:// www.greenshoes.co.uk/ Figure 73. M&s Plan A, 2012. M&S with Oxfam [Website Print Screens] Available online at: http://plana.marksandspencer. com/about/partnerships/oxfam Figure 74. Hannah Hussain, 2 December 2012. London street style, Oxford Street [photograph] London Figure 75. Envirophone, 2009. [Website Print Screen] Available online at: http:// www.envirofone.com/en-gb/what-happens

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Journals

Harrison,R.,Newholm,T.2005.The ethical consumer.2nd Ed. London: Sage K. Tranberg Hansen.2000. Salaula: The World of Secondhand Clothing and Zambia. Chicargo Macinnis,H,. 2010. Consumer Behaviour, 5st ED. Canada: Cengage Nicky,G.,Crewe,L. 2003. Second hand Cultures. Oxford: Berg Palmer,A., Clark,H. 2005. Old clothes new looks, second hand fashion. Oxford. Berg Walkley.C.,1980. Charity and the Victorian Needlewoman, 5TH ED. London: Maney Publishing

Burns, D.J., Warren, H.B. (1995), “Need for uniqueness: shopping mall preference and choice activity”, International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, Vol. 23 No.12, pp.4-12. [Accessed 25/11/12] Butler, S.M., Francis.S., (1997), “The effects of environmental attitudes on apparel purchasing behavior”, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Vol. 15 No.2, pp.76-85. Cervellon,M.,Carey.L,(2012) Something old, something used: Determinants of women’s purchase of vintage fashion vs second-hand fashion: International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, Vol. 40 Iss: 12, pp.956 – 974 D’Souza, Clare, Mehdi Taghian, Peter Lamb 127

and Roman Peretiatko (2007), “Green Decisions: Demographics and Consumer Understanding of Environmental Labels,” International Journal of Consumer Studies, Vol. 31 (4), 371-376

Cabinet Office, 2002. Public Attitudes Towards Recycling and Waste Management [online]. Available at:http://www.ipsos-mori. com/Assets/Docs/Archive/Polls/waste_ recycling.pdf [Accessed 2/11/2012]

Ginsburg,M.,(1972). ‘The Tailoring and Dressmaking Trades, 1700-1972’.Costume, Journal of the Costume Society, Vol. 6, p. 6471

Callender, 2008. Jane Shepherdson: from Topshop to Oxfam [online]. Available at: http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/newsfeatures/TMG3364886/Jane-Shepherdsonfrom-Topshop-to-Oxfam.html. Accessed [28/10/2012]

Ginsburg,M.,(1972).’Rags to Riches,The Second-Hand Clothes Trade 1700-1978’. Costume, Journal of the Costume Society, Vol. Clearabee, 2011. Valuing our clothes 6, p. 100 [online]. Available at: http://www.clearabee. co.uk/textile-recycling-landfill/ [Accessed Groves, E. (2008), “Vintage, green 01/12/2012] movements spur denim recycling”, WWD: Women’s Wear Daily, Vol. 196 No.17, Consumer Focus, 2009. Consumers’ Guiot, D., Roux, D. (2010), “A second-hand shoppers’ motivation scale: antecedents, consequences and implications for retailers”, Journal of Retailing, Vol. 86 No.4, pp.355-71.

Websites BBC, 2012. Marc Bolland: M&S to become ‘multi-channel retailer’ [online]. Available at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/ business-20217053 [Accessed 2/12/2012] BBC, 2012.Primark sales growth boast Associated British Foods [online]. Available at: http://www.bbc.co.k/news/ business-20217057 [Accessed 12/11/2012] British Fashion Council, 2012. The Value of the British Fashion Industry [online]. Available at: http://www. britishfashioncouncil.com/uploads/ media/62/16356.pdf [Accessed 20/01/2013]

understanding of green claims in advertising [online]. Available at: http:// www.consumerfocus.org.uk/assets/1/ files/2009/06/Green-expectations-singlepage.pdf [Accessed 2/10/2013]

Defra, 2011.WRAP Sustainable Clothing Roadmap Progress Report [online]. London: Available at: http://www.defra. gov.uk/publications/files/pb13461clothing-actionplan-110518.pdf Accessed [11/10/2012] Defra, 2006. Sustainable Consumption and Production [online]. Encouraging Sustainable Consumption. Available at: http://www.sustainable-development.gov. uk/what/priority/consumption-production/ consumption.html [Accessed 21/12/2012] Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs, 2004. Municipal Waste Management Survey 2002/03 [online]. Available at: www.defra.gov.uk/ 128

environment/statistics/wastats/mwb0203/ index.htm [Accessed 23/10/2012]

Hill.J, 2009. Mapping the environmental policy drivers [online]. Available at: http:// www.green-alliance.org.uk/uploadedFiles/ Publications/reports/Greener%20 products%20final2.pdf

Ethical Consumerism, 2011. An ethical fashion industry labour behind the label [online]. Available at: http://www. fashioninganethicalindustry.org/!file/ Fashion Futures, 2025. ‘Global scenarios for a sustainable fashion industry’ [online]. Available at: https://www.forumforthefuture. org/sites/default/files/project/downloads/ fashionfutures2025finalsml.pdf [21/12/2012]

Hines.T., Bruce.M.(2007).Fashion Marketing [online]. London. Available at: http://www. prschool.ge/img/every_day/Fashion%20 Marketing.pdf [Accessed 15/11/2012] Household Waste Recycling Act, 2003 [online]. Available at: www.legislation. hmso.gov.uk/acts/acts2003/20030029.htm [Accessed 10/01/2013]

Financial Times, 2007. Branding for the ethical consumer [online]. Available at:http:// www.ft.com/ethicalbrands [Accessed Jonathon Hardcastle, 2011. Effective 3/01/2013] Customer Communication [online]. Available at: http://ezinearticles. Franklin, D. 2011. An ethical fashion debate com/?Effective-Customer[online]. Available at: http://www.vam. Communication&id=286704. [Accessed ac.uk/content/articles/e/ethical-fashion22/12/2012] debate/ [Accessed 22/10/2012]

Katherine E. Pears, 2006. Fashion Reconsumption; developing a sustainable fashion consumption pratice influenced by sustainability and consumption theory [online]. Available at: http://researchbank. rmit.edu.au/eserv/rmit:6309/Pears.pdf:2006 [Accessed 12/11/2012]

Friends of the Earth International, 2002. Clashes with corporate giants - 22 campaigns for biodiversity and community [online]. Available at:www.foe.co.uk/resource/ reports/clashes_corporate_giants.pdf [Accessed 8/01/2013] Gauntlett, D. 2001. Michael Foucault Institute of Communication Studies [online]. Available at: http://www.theory. org.uk/cltr-foul.htm [Accessed 10/10/2012] H&M, 2011. H&M’s CONSCIOUS ACTIONS [online]. Available at: http:// about.hm.com/content/dam/hm/about/ documents/masterlanguage/CSR/reports/ Conscious%20Actions%20Sustainability%20 Report%202011.pdf [Accessed 19/12/2012]

Kershaw,J, 2012. WRAP reveals multi-million pound savings in textile recovery [online]. Available at: http://www.e2bpulse.com/ Articles/326058/E2B/Pulse/News/News_ Articles/2012/WRAP_reveals_multi.aspx [Accessed 11/11/2012] Key Note, 2012. Green and Ethical Consumer Market Assessment 2012 [online]. Key Note. Available at : http://www.keynote.co.uk/ market-intelligence/view/product/10537/

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green-and-ethical-consumer [Accessed 08/11/2012] Le recycling, 2012. Recycling [online]. Available at: http://le-recycling.com/index. php/recycling/ [Accessed 18/10/2012] Market Research, 2011. Mintel and The ethical way of life....what’s in for me? [online]. Available at http:// www.marketresearchworld.net/index. php?option=content&task=view&id=1165 [Accessed 11/01/13] Morley,N., Slater,S. 2006 Recycling of Low Grade Clothing Waste [online]. Available at: http://www.oakdenehollins.co.uk/pdf/ defr01_058_low_grade_clothing-public_ v2.pdf[Accessed 06/11/2012] Skapinker,M., 2012. Number of the Day: The 3:30 Paradox [online]. Available at: http://www.unofficialpartner.co.uk/?p=1175 [Accessed 05/01/2012] Sustainability report, 2011 [online]. Available at : http://www.google.co.uk/ url?sa=t&rct=j&q=h%26m%20make%20 25%20pairs%20of%20shopes%20with%20 water%20based%20 Traid, 2012. Textile recycling for aid and international development [online]. Available at: http://www.traid.org.uk/retail. html [Accessed 01/12/2012]

Aluminum.htm [Accessed 13/01/2013] Webb, T. 2008. ‘Textiles – Time for ethical sourcing Mk II’ [online]. Ethical Corporation. Available at http://www.ethicalcorp.com/content. asp?contentid=5637 [Accessed 15/01/2013] Women’s Environmental Network, 2004. Carrier Bag Tax [online]. Available at: www. wen.org.uk/waste/Reports/carrier_bag_tax_ policy.pdf [Accessed 25/10/12] WRAP, 2012. Sustainable Clothing Action Plan [online]. Available at: http://www. wrap.org.uk/content/sustainable-clothingaction-plan-1 [Accessed 04/11/2012] Yates.L, 2009. Green expectations- on products and production processes [online]. Available at: http://www.green-alliance.org. uk/uploadedFiles/Publications/reports/ Greener%20products%20final2.pdf [Accessed 3/12/2012] is-ethics/3028974.article [Accessed 14/12/2012]

Online Articles

Alexander,E. 2012.’Oxfam curiosity’ Vogue News [online]. Available at: http://www. vogue.co.uk/news/2011/04/01/oxfamcuriosity-shop-pop-up-at-selfridges [Accessed 16/11/2012]

Anon, 2007. ‘Branding for the ethical consumer’. Financial Times [online]. Verdict, 2010. H&M Designer Collaborations Available at:http://www.ft.com/ethicalbrands [online]. Available from:http://www.just[Accessed 12/10/2012] style.com/market-research/hm-designerBarnett, M,. 2011. The marketing Week collaborations_id94244.aspx [Accessed [online]. Available at: http://www. 22/11/2012] marketingweek.co.uk/the-only-wayis-ethics/3028974.article [Accessed Waste Watch, 2001. Aluminium recycling 14/12/2012] [online]. Available at: www.wasteonline. org.uk/resources/InformationSheets/ 130

Garnett, 2012. Oyster Daily [online]. Smithers,R. 2012. ‘M&S launches Available at: http://oystermag.com/ ‘shwopping’ scheme’. The Guardian.[online]. interview-cheap-date [Accessed 12/11/2012] Available at: http://www.guardian.co.uk/ money/2012/apr/26/marks-spencerGraham.A., 2011.’Retail queen Mary Portas shwopping-scheme [Accessed 15/11/2012] turns her attention to charity shops’. Sunday Mail [online] Available at: http://www. Weisbrot,M,. 2003. ‘Anti-Sweatshop dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2082061/ Movement Provides Needed Counterweight Mary-Portas-blasted-child-labour-sketchin the Global Economy’. Center for Channel-4s-Mash-Up.html [Accessed economic and policy research [online]. 17/12/2011] Available at: http://www.cepr.net/index.php/ op-eds-&-columns/op-eds-&-columns/antiHughes,A.,2009. ‘The ethical way sweatshop-movement-provides-neededof life....what’s in for me?’ Market counterweight-in-the-global-economy/ research [online]. Available at http:// [Accessed 1/12/2012] www.marketresearchworld.net/index. php?option=content&task=view&id=1165 [Accessed 5/11/2012]

Online Journals

Hunter,J.H,. 2010. ‘What’s So Bad About Cotton?’ The Environnemental Magazine [online].Available at:http://business-ethics. com/2010/08/07/1438-the-bad-side-ofcotton/[1/11/2012] Marsden.J, 2010. ‘Eco-fashion takes over the high street’. The metro [online]. Available at http://metro.co.uk/2010/03/10/upcyclingis-eco-fashion-trend-generating-fashionbuzz-159731/ [Accessed 11/11/2012] Quirk.V., 2012. ‘how-3d-printing-willchange-our-world’ Arch Daily [online]. Available at: http://www.archdaily. com/253380/how-3d-printing-will-changeour-world [Accessed 05/01/2013] Skapinker,M. 2012. ‘In search of the exclusive ethical consumer’. The financial times [online]. Available at:http://www. ft.com/cms/s/26001eba-afcd-11e1a025-00144feabdc0,Authorised=false. html?_i_location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww. ft.com%2Fcms%2Fs%2F0%2F26001ebaafcd-11e1-a025-00144feabdc0.html&_i_ referer=#axzz2DAI6GF1e [Accessed 3/11/2012]

Burns, D.J., Warren, H.B. 1995. ‘Need for uniqueness: shopping mall preference and choice activity’. International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management [online]. Vol. 23 (Iss.12), Available via: http://www.emeraldinsight.com/journals. htm?issn=1361-2026&volume=16&issue=1 [Accessed 18/10/12] James.R, Rajiiv.Dant. 2010. ‘A Second-hand Shoppers Motivation Scale: Antecedents, Consequences and Implications for Retailers’. Journal of Retailing [online]. Vol. 4 (iss:3), Available via: http://dominiqueroux.e-monsite.com/medias/files/guiot-etroux-jr-2010.pdf [Accessed 14/10/2012] Joergens, C. 2006. ‘Ethical fashion: myth or future trend?’ Journal of Fashion and Marketing and Management, [online]. Vol. 10 (iss 3), Available via: http:// www.emeraldinsight.com/journals. htm?issn=1361-2026&volume=10&issue=3 &articleid=1563054&show=html [Accessed 15/11/12] Kempen, L., Muradian, R., Sandoval,

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C., Castaneda, J. 2009. ‘Too poor to be green consumers?’. Ecological Economics, [online]. Vol. 68 No.7, Available via: http://www.emeraldinsight.com/journals. htm?issn=1361-2026&volume=16&issue=3 [Accessed 18/11/2012] Shen.B.,Wang.Y .2012. ‘The impact of ethical fashion on consumer purchase behaviour’. Journal of Retailing [online]. Vol. 16 (Iss: 2), p.234 – 245.Availble via: http://www.emeraldinsight.com/journals. htm?articleid=17031316 [Accessed 28/10/2012]

15/12/2012] Mintel 1(2009).Ethical clothing-UK[online]. available via: http://academic.mintel.com/ display/393875/?highlight=true, February [Accessed 1/12/2012] Mintel 2 (2011).Waste Management industrial report UK [online] February. Available via: http://oxygen.mintel.com/ display/568920/ [Accessed 1/12/2012] Mintel 3 (2010). Impact of the recession -UK [online] June. Available via: http://oxygen. mintel.com/display/480795/?highlight=true [Accessed 14/11/2012]

Data Bases

Mintel 4 (2011),Student LifestylesUK[online]. May. Available via: http://oxygen.mintel.com/ display/579268/?highlight=true[Accessed 2/11/2012]

Clark,N. 2011. ’Responsible Prosperity’ WGSN (26th May).Available via: http:// www.wgsn.com/content/report/Marketing/ Communication_Strategy/2011/May/ responsible_prosperity.html [Accessed 25/10/12] Melius,L. 2012. ‘Sustainable textiles: high street overview’. WGSN (27 September) Available via: http://www.wgsn.com/ content/report/News/2012/Jul_Stories/ Jul_30/News_Story_Jul_3010.html [Accessed 29/11/2012] Mintel (2010) Student Lifestyles UK [online]. June. Available via: http://oxygen.mintel. com/display/508478/?highlight=true [Accessed 20/11/2012]

Mintel 5 (2012)Fashion Online. UK [online].March. Available via: http://oxygen.mintel.com/ display/590053/?highlight=true[Accessed 2/11/2012] Mintel 6 (2011) Youth Fashion – UK[online] December. Available via: http://academic. mintel.com/display/604853/?highlight=true [Accessed 4/01/2013] Mintel 7 (2008.) Ethical and Green Retailing[online]September. Available via http://academic.mintel.com/ display/280622/?highlight=true [Accessed 20/11/2012]

Mintel (2012). Men’s Fashion Lifestyle [online] May. Available via: http://academic.mintel.com/ display/590099/?highlight=true[Accessed 13/10/2012]

Mintel 8 (2012), Womens fashion Lifestyle’s[online] May.Available via: http://academic.mintel.com/ display/590148/?highlight=true [Accessed 14/10/2012]

Mintel (2012).E-commerce[online]Feb. Available via: http://academic.mintel.com/ display/479843/?highlight=true [Accessed

Mintel 9 (2009). Ethical and Green Retailing[online]Available via :http://academic.mintel.com/ 132

display/395927/?highlight=true [Accessed 13/11/2012]

[Accessed 17/12/2012] Clark,N. 2012. ‘Trend analysis’ WGSN (30 July). Available via: http://www.wgsn.com/ content/report/HBL/Trend_Analysis/2012/

Plank.M, 2012 ‘Communication Strategy’ WGSN: Available via: http://www.wgsn. com/content/report/News/2012/Jul_ Stories/Jul_30/News_Story_Jul_3010.html [Accessed 29/11/2012]

November/Home_Cleaning_trend_analysis. html#Eco [Accessed 19/01/2013]

Saunter,L. 2012. ‘Made in the UK: ASBCI Conference’ WGSN: Available via: : http://www.wgsn.com/content/report/ Sourcing/2012/October/made_in_the_ uk.html [Accessed 24/10/2012] Style Sight, 2013. Vintage in S/S 13 [online]. Available via: http://www.stylesights.com/ fashionoffice/voard-dynamic.

Press Releases

Style Sight., 2012. From disposable to Desirable.[online] Available via: http:// www.stylesigh.com/fashionoffice/ board-dynamic.php?ref node=node1468&boardnum=9797&mypage=6 [Accessed 22/11/2012]

NewsroomDetails/657405.html

H&M, 2012-04-12 - Press Release Sustainability [online]. Available at: http://about.hm.com/content/hm/ NewsroomSection/eNewsRoom/

Blogs Batz,.B.2008.’ Top 50 Shockvertisement’. Trend Hunter [online blog]. Available at:http://www.trendhunter.com/slideshow/ top-50-shock-controversial-ads-on [Accessed 19/10/12]

Stylus , 2011. Future Trends [online] Available via: http://www.stylus.com/en/ Events/2011/October/Reports/FutureTrends-/ [Accessed 02/01/2013]

Bryan Pirolli,2012 .’In Paris, ethical fashion heads down the runway’. Global Observer [online blog]. September 14.Available at: http://www.smartplanet.com/blog/ global-observer/in-paris-ethical-fashionheads-down-the-runway/7177 [Accessed 9/01/2013]

Stylus ,2010. Positive-Provenance[online] Available via: http://www.stylus.com/en/ Retail/2010/December/Reports/LuxuryProvenance-How-to-Use-Heritage1/ [Accessed 13/12/2012] Stylus ,2012. The-Non-Toxic-Home[online] Available via: http://www.stylus.com/en/ Vision/2010-Year/August/reports/The-NonToxic-Home-/ [Accessed 28/10/2012] The co-operative bank,2007. The ethical consumerism report [online] Available via: http://www.co-operativebank.co.uk/images/ pdf/ethical_consumer_report_2007.pdf

Fred Pearce, 2008. Fred’s Footprint: What price cotton? New Scientist [online blog]. Wednesday, June 18.Available at: http://www.newscientist.com/blog/ environment/2008/06/freds-footprint-whatprice-cotton.html [Accessed 15/11/2012] Louise.E,.2012. Sustainable fashion. Recycled Fashion [online blog]. 4September.

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Available at: http://www.recycled-fashion. com/ [Accessed 1/11/2012]

Wonderland, 2012 April/May

N.V, 2012 ‘.Difference Engine: The PC all over again?’. The Economist [online blog]. Sep 9th.Available at: http://www.economist. com/blogs/babbage/2012/09/3d-printing[27/11/2012]

Films

Unstash, 2011.’Brand Identity’[online blog]. Accessed at: http//blog.unstash.com/brandidentity/on [Accessed 8/10/12]

The Dollar a Day Dress, 2011, motion picture, BCC Panorama’s film uncovers how the global garment industry can harm poor countries , Distributed by The Ethical Fashion Forum. UK. [Accessed 19/10/2012]

Presentations

Beales.S. 2012. A Nottingham University Lecture. Fashion Forward. [lecture] October 18. Nottingham 2012. Nottingham Trent University.

Blood sweat and t-shirts 2008, television program, BBC THREE 29 Decemever 2008 [Accessed 12/12/2012]

Chandaria.K. and Tooke.G. 2012. Kantar WorldPanel, GB fashion Market Insight. [lecture] September 2 2012. Nottingham: Nottingham Trent University

Videos

DEFRA, 2012, Ethical consumerism: More harm than good? Tansy Hoskins and Matt Houlihan [online video] Accessed Chandaria.K. and Tooke.G. 2012. Kantar 23 November 2012. Available at: http:// WorldPanel, Primark and their Jeans Market. www.youtube.com/watch?v=13NFZ[workshop] September 3 2012. Nottingham: v3qwE&feature=related Nottingham Trent University Fashion 2011, FashAustralia: principals of sustainable fashion design [online video] Accessed 19 October 2012. Available at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=13NFZv3qwE&feature=related Poldner.K, 2012 ‘Future Trends Briefing’ Natalia Allen 2011, EcoSpeakers :Sustainable by Stylus, The Designer Forum, 15 March Fashion Design & Wearable Technology [online video] Accessed 16 Decmeber 2012. Nottingham Available at: http://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=WcZK26R3xdM

Trend briefing

Magazines

Wonderland, Special K, 2011 Novemeber/ December Love. The Supernatural Issue. Autumn/ Winter 2011

Oxfam Great Britain 2012, From Poverty to Power New Edition - Duncan Green introduces his book, Oxfam [online video] Accessed 17 October 2012. Available at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yq2O0Tk8NM&feature=youtube_gdata

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eBay Mom Jeans 2011, eBay [online video] Accessed 18 December 2012. Available at: http://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=sQYGA1n_jZ8&feature=related

Interviews Heathcote,E. 2012. Ethical fashion Blogger for Oxfam. Interviewed by Hannah Hussain [via email], 1st November 2012. Iranki,V. 2012. Husband of Charlotte O’brien. Interviewed by Hannah Hussain [in person], Sophia’s Closet, Pimlico London, 1st December 2012. Lousie,E. 2012. Writer of Recycled Fashion Blog. Interviewed by Hannah Hussain [via emai], 3rd Novemeber 2012. O’brien,C,. 2012. Owner of Sophia’s Closet London. Interviewed by Hannah Hussain [in person], Sophia’s Closet, Pimlico London, 1st December 2012. MasonV,. 2012. Owner of A Vintage Obsessed. Interviewed by Hannah Hussain [in person], A vintage Obsessed Boutique Nottingham, 20th November 2012.

Visits

London. 2012, Camden Market, Brickson, South End, 31st November 2012, London. Luxury Sample Sale. 2012. Sophia’s Closet, 1st December 2012, London. The V&A Museam. 2012. Victorian Dress, 4th November 2012, London. Vintage Fair. 2012. The Nottingham Vintage Fair, 8th December 2012, Nottingham.

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V&A Museam Visit It was firstly important to get into the mindset of the consumer, and gather some initial knowledge before further investigating into the rise of second hand clothes and its motivational drivers. The Victoria and Albert Museum was visited in order to research into the history of ‘second hand dress’, and discover how far the industry has come since then. It was chosen due to the historical second hand dress section, with the additional benefit of London being a great place to observe trends. The visit was made on the 4th November 2012, London. The section of the museum that was most interesting was the ‘Victoria dress ‘section in the V&A. It was discovered that during the renaissance in the Middle Ages, trade in second hand dress adopted a purpose. This was to offer poorer people to acquire better quality and fashionable clothing. At this time the uniqueness of a garment signified wealth and social status. The re-using of clothing is now mainly due to an over production of garments (Burns 1995:10).

‘The poor would rely on the huge secondhand clothes trade prevalent during the period, spending hours altering old clothes for themselves and their families to make them fit or to make them more fashionable. Clothes could be dyed and the good parts of a garment made into children's clothes or accessories, and areas of wear could be patched. There was even a market for ragged clothes that had been through several owners - these were still worn by the destitute’ (V&A, 2012, Online) The visit also allowed gained knowledge about East Asian cultures. Years ago and still today in some parts in East Asian it was believed that clothing carried a presence or aura of a former wearer, and so these clothes must be saved to enable the person to ‘live on’ and be remembered. Treasured garments were shown at the museum. +

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Luxury Sample Sale

The Luxury Sample Sale was a great way to see how different things get passed on in different ways. It was held at Sophia’s Closet in London on the 1st December. The luxury second hand clothes boutique has an online presence, however this event was a great way to create publicity and create engagement with the new brand. Independent jewellery

designers also attended to create recognition around their new products, and brand ambassadors from the second hand store ‘The Box Boutique’ also brought pre-loved stock to sell.

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London Case Study London is a retro case-study in terms of second hand fashion and its significant in terms of design, subculture and street style. The retro scene has a long history of expansion, with an increase in niche marketing. There are over 50 retro and vintage stores in the inner London region where growth is clearly linked to the developing market of second hand goods (British Fashion Council, 2012: Online). Nonetheless it is debatable whether the growth is subject to commercialisation. Witness how ‘charity’ car boot sales are seen as acceptable where their commercial counterparts are not; how pre-packaged retro is seen as a stylistic cop-out, and how the image of the commerical charity shop has stemmed considerable negative media attention’ (Gregson 2003:31). Brands such ROKIT, began in London 1986 starting out with a small market stall in Camden. It

now has three London stores in Camden, Brick Lane and Covent Garden. With the rise of mass produced, throw-away high street fashion Rokit has boomed. Many stylists frequently use Rokit garments and accessories for fashion features in magazines from Vogue to Dazed and Confused to I.D magazine (ROKIT, 2012: Online). London is generally considered the most vibrant, active city for what is now a thriving global industry. The love of vintage is not just in obvious hotspots like trend setting Shoreditch and Brick Lane, as Londoners’ love of vintage is reflected through hundreds of vintage events such as the world famous Portobello Market in West London. In fact, the London vintage scene currently boasts more vintage shops, retro café’s, kilo sales, retro themed nightlife and vintage festivals than any other capital (London Calling, 2012, the rise and rise of vintage: Online).

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Held in Kensington on April 17 2012, the bi-annual London Vintage Wedding Fair brings together more than 35 suppliers of vintage bridal dresses and accessories. While the fair offers more than a century of styles, an abiding trend from the selection of labels was the importance of lace (London Calling, 2012 the rise and rise of vintage: Online). The vintage fair at Southbank (29-31 July 2011) also brought Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Royal Festival Hall to life with a retro-inspired style. TRAID's flagship store opened in the heart of Camden in May 2009. It stocks the very best in TRAID Vintage. TRAID Secondhand and has a large section devoted to TRAIDremade, which is an eco and socially conscious recycled

fashion label. Moreover, shop interior is fitted with largely reclaimed materials using timber, scaffolding and fabric to create an overall experience and environment (TRAID, 2012. Textile recycling for Aid and International Developmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;:Online)

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London Street Style Doing street style in London on the night of the Vogue Fashion Night Out was a great way to trend spot vintage dress and vintage inspired peices.

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Questionniare Hand completed questionnaires aimed at a range of consumers was created to determine a number of things: who recycles clothes and why, and recycling tendencies compared to specifically recycling clothes. We can also see the motivation behind recycling and therefore determine what could be done to change peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s behaviour. A closed questionnaire is the best way to find this out because it provides quantitative data, which can then be statically analysed and put into graphs to identify clear correlations. By using a random sampling technique asking 100 participants overall, 50 male and 50 females created more reliable results and generated the opportunity to compare age and gender outcomes. By asking 20 participants for each age range it was possible to gain insight into different consumer behaviours. Although 100 participants is a reliable amount, by solely conducting the questionnaires in Nottingham does not create a representative sample of the whole of the UK and so is slightly biased to one city, however the random sampling technique used does help to create a more accurate results. Therefore triangulation was used through to make the research more reliable. The questionnaire was piloted on 3 participants to create accuracy.

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Ethical Considerations Consent Form A declaration was included with the questionnaire which enabled participants had to agree before continuing to answer the questions. This is declaration which was printed and attached the each questionnaire given out and completed to ensure it adhered to the ethical guidelines: I am a fashion communication and promotion student in third year and this project is a research document into peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s motivations for recycling clothes. This questionnaire will help me gain crucial primary research and although you will be anonymous results will be used in my report to determine further recommendations and steer the direction of my work. If you would like to contact me or have any question you can email me on N0330610@ my.ntu.ac.uk (my university email address). Additionally you can contact me on 07756698136. By ticking the box that states you have read this declaration you are agree that the answers given can be used for research in my dissertation.

Thank you for your time. Please turn over for the questionnaire.

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A Selection of Questionnaires

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Key Results

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The pie chart show the overall result of recycling clothes compared to recycling in general. Clearly results show a gap in the market for the recycling clothes industry.

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The questionnaire results show that the age bracket of 40+ are most likely to recycle in general compared to those under 19 who are the least likely to recycle overall. By looking at each age bracket in detail we can see the motivation for each age group behind recycling clothes. Younger consumers are also the least ethical consumer.

This could due to a number of reasons such as: Their lack of knowledge of the fashion industry as a whole Appearance as much of a priority A lack of environmental and ethical issues as whole Less likely to fully support themselves therefor less likely to gain from selling clothes Parents may take responsibility for the clothes â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;If we create awareness of the importance of recycling clothes at a younger age could it have a big impact on the generation in the future?â&#x20AC;&#x2122; Profitable businesses such as vintage stores can further appeal to a younger, more fashion conscious demographic compared

to non-profitable organisations such as charity shops that appeal to an older age range. The questionnaire results show that the 20-29 age group tends to recycle other items compared to clothes with a positive result for selling for gain. An organisation that appears to target this audience is the online brand EBAY. This means that recycling clothes for this age group is harnessed through organisations that encourage trading. In contrast for the 50 + age group, charity shops prove to be the main motivation for recycling. Additionally this shows there is potential for organisations to advertise to a specific demographic. Profitable businesses such as vintage stores can further appeal to a younger, more fashion conscious

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demographic compared to non-profitable organizations such as charity shops that appeal to an older age range.

_ Gender Women differ from men in their shopping habits, typically spending twice as much as men on average per year [Mintelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;sÂ Value Clothing Retailing â&#x20AC;&#x201C; UK, December 2009]. Results from the questionnaire clearly mirror this. From the results it can be concluded that men are not the target market because they are less fashion conscious than women, and tend to buy from higher end commercial high street brands with social status being of key importance to them.

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Online Male Survey Some of the main barriers within the second hand clothes industry come from a lack of communication with the brand and the costumer, as well as a lack of trust when donating clothes to organisations. This was also reflected in the male survey conducted for primary research. An open ended survey was used to create more detailed answering, and was used to further investigate why men dont recycle clothes as much as women. The results could then inform my decision to focus my report on women. The survey was created on the 15th November and since then, 43 responses were collected.

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Key Answers Key Answers Not all results can be shown in this appendix so the log in details have been given below. www.surveymonkey.com Username – Hannahfcp Password – rainbow1

This screening question was used at the beginning of the survey to see who recycles clothes to further justify the answers. 2. If answered no to the previous question, give reasons why you don’t recycle clothes. I don’t have time to put all my clothes onto Ebay - 24/11/2012 19:33 Because I feel my clothes are too high quality and expensive to give away for free 23/11/2012 17:45 I question where my donations will end up as if never see the benefits - 20/11/2012 16:04

designer suit to a charity shop, i normally invest in expensive items so that I don’t throw them out or if I don;t want them anymore I pass them down to family or close friends at work - 19/11/2012 14:09 It takes a lot of time to take all your unwanted clothes to the charity shop and I hardly ever clear out my wardrobe as I don’t shop often. - 17/11/2012 19:55 not fashionable, don’t get money for it. 18/11/2012 15:3 3. What organisations are you aware of that recycle clothes? Gumtree - 25/11/2012 11:54

I always feel like it is a shame put give a 163

I don’t know any that recycle clothes compared to organisations that recycle materials like plastic and glass. - 23/11/2012 18:12

If there was an easier way of doing it 15/11/2012 15:48 If I felt that the places I gave my clothes to would do them justice- 19/11/2012 14:09

Oxfam, TRAID - 15/11/2012 15:48

5. Are you aware of fashion trends that revolve around the second hand industry?

nspcc post bags through my door that they collect, I’ll see if I don’t need anything. along with that if my other half is having a clear out of her stuff/my stuff we tend to take it down to the charity shop such as oxfam.15/11/2012 17:15

No - 25/11/2012 18:35 yes hippie - 4/12/2012 14:17 Not really but I know some people who like to customize thier clothes - 19/11/2012 14:16

Ebay - 3/12/2012 14:08 I don’t know any that recycle clothes into new materials but I know places like charity shops re-use clothes - 24/11/2012 19:30

yes - it is quite popular amongst students and certain subcultures such as the indie scene and hippy types to buy second hand clothes. Especially the indie scene, think people trying to model themselves on jarvis cocker out of pulp in the 90s and similar groups. I’m not so with it now I’m in my 30s but I’m sure indie types still do this. 15/11/2012 22:01

The rag man, I don’t know really. 16/11/2012 12:11 4. What would make you recycle clothes more? If I knew a little about the history of the item like who has had it before me or why it is important to recycle.-25/11/2012 18:40

No, I am not fashion conscious 15/11/2012 15:43

If I was more clear on the effects of not recycling? I am aware of how bad mass production of plastic is for example but i’m unsure of the damages caused through the textile industry. In terms of re-using clothes, if it was easier to by nice second hand clothes instead of routing around in charity shops to find one good item.17/11/2012 19:55 if there was an incentive to, such as coupons, or money? like 5 quid off on top man/burtons. - 15/11/2012 17:15 164

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'A Vintage Obsession' Interview Emails Verity Facebook Message to Arrange the Interview

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Consent Form

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Interview Transcript 20 minute face to face interview at 11am on 20th November, 2012. The interview took place at the vintage boutique store, Lace Market Nottingham. Full interview can be seen on the CD at the back of the report. Can you tell us a little bit about who you are? My names Verity Mason and I’m the owner of A Vintage Obsession in hockey which is a little independent vintage boutique Do you stock retro, vintage and second hand highstreet wear or just one type? Erm...we do sell a mix of retro and classic vintage so we are trying to have a little of everything so there is something for everyone. And which type sells best? Erm, id say the 80’s stuff is what goes, well sells daily so the students that come are looking to buy the 80’s bargains, and every now and again I get a true collector who comes in who want original 40’s or 50’s vintage dress. Where do you source your stock from? Erm, a lot of it is about building relationships with collectors, erm...going round theatres and then I go round antique fairs and i’ve gone abroad a few times before as well.

that you cant get hold of? Erm...mmm...I think at the moment I can get hold of a lot of what I want to be honest with you (Laughs) What is the most important aspect of your business? To me it’s doing something a bit different to other retro vintage shops and just being a bit more specialist than they are. My customer service element. Do you think vintage fashion is a passing trend or a permentate shift i people shopping habits? Erm i think it’s a permanent shift its just in the magazines all the time now it’s what everybody is doing and because people haven’t got much money at the moment its just an easier way to shop. Do you think there been a shift in people perceptions of charity shops and wearing second hand pieces recently? Definitely people are lot more open to the idea and in particular because my store is a bit more ‘boutiquey’ as oppose to a retro shop I tend to get middle aged more affluently people coming in who don’t at all mind buying second hand.

Do you think the motivation because buying second hand and vintage is ethical What type of clothing what you like to sell or just commercial? 169

(Pauses) Erm, properly a bit of both Why do you think so many people throw away their clothes instead of recycling them? I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think as many people are at the moment because people are tight for money they are starting to do things like car boot fair to get money back thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what I think they are doing a lot more. Do you think people are aware of the importance of recycling clothes compared to other materials? Properly not I think people are doing it just for money for themselves. How do you think perceptions can be changed? I think that properly vintage shops could play more on that side of it. What is the reality of the situation in terms of eco fashion? There are people who are interested in it but they still have a long way to go What do you think future is or second hand fashion? I think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s going to carry on being popular but I do think cause there are so many vintage shops opening now people need to start specialising and offering something special in store instead of just to get people there. OK Thank You

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Charlotte O'brien Consent An email interview at with Charlotte O’brien Firstly I conducted an email interview with Charlotte O’brien from the pre-loved luxury online boutique, ‘Sophia’s Closet’. The consent and emails are shown below:

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Email Interview What most interests you about luxury fashion? Each designer has their own unique style that develops with each season within the brand, trends are constantly changing, it’s an incredibly creative and competitive environment. What are the advantages of luxury second hand clothes? Affordability. Luxury fashion comes with an extravagant price tag and second hand designer goods allow fashion lovers an opportunity to consume them too. What inspired you to start this business? My love of designer brands, mixed with my love of sample sales. I had a clear out of my wardrobe one day and realised how many things I had brought over the years but didn’t wear, I decided to set up a website for fashion lovers, a one-stop shop where you can buy and sell. Who do you think buys pre-loved clothes? Pre-loved is a question of condition, many items on the website have only be used the once and are in perfect condition, but because of this reason the re-sale price is extremely affordable. So I think people that buy them are more fashion savvy and think outside of the box. Why do you think people buy vintage? Do you? Vintage is simply a question of taste, some people love 50’s style of 70’s maxi dresses, we offer a vintage section on our site, but designer vintage only, we have some great

ossie clark pieces. I love to have an eclectic wardrobe and love to wear vintage for that special occasion, there’s not much chance of turning up to the same event in a similar outfit to someone else. Is the motivation behind second hand clothing ethical or simply commercial/ trend based? Both. It is environmentally very ethical to recycle anything we use, including designer clothes, and when trends come and go so quickly there is always more and more clothes being made everyday. Why do you think people sell their clothes? People sell their clothes to make room and money for new ones, more often than not people will sell a pair of shoes to contribute towards a new pair, or a bag they have their eye on. Why do you think so many people throw away their clothes instead of recycling? I think its terrible if people throw clothes away in the trash, there are so many people who don’t have this luxury in the world, that I would really recommend donating unused clothes to charity. Do you think people are aware of the importance of recycling clothes compared to other materials? No, I think people realise now its bad for the environment to throw away plastic for example into the bin and not to recycle them but perhaps they don’t realise clothes and raw materials are equally important for 173

other reasons. How do you think perceptions can be changed? I think more needs to be done to advertise recycling; more and more houses are equipped with separate bins for glass, plastic etc, it would be good to have a materials one also. What does the future have in store for pre loved clothes? I think people are becoming more and more individual, it is thought of as cool to develop your own sense of style, and therefore recycling previous fashions is a great idea. There is a great market for this especially in this economic environment.

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Face to Face Interview Consent After the emails were conducted, a visit was made to London to help out at the Luxury Sample Sale. This was a great opportunity to gather primary research and conduct the interview face to face and record it. A face to face interview was conducted on the 1st of December 2012 in Pimlico London, with the owner and manager of the luxury second hand online boutique,

Charlotte O’Brien. The boutique, ‘Sophia’s Closet’ collects pre loved, high end luxury clothing through door to door donations as well as buying from sample sales. The interview was conducted in the boutique and the full video of the interview can be seen on the CD at the back of the report.

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Interview Transcript Hi can you tell us a little bit about who you products that normally only the very rich can afford. are? Yup, my name is charlotte O’Brien and originally I trained as an actress but I’ve always had a love for fashion so developing my own business seemed like the right thing to do. Can you tell us a little bit about your business? So it’s a website where you can buy new and pre-loved luxury designer clothes. Its high brand only and it’s basically a design ebay but kind of with more of a boutique style so we only have selected items on the website. Can you tell us a little bit about the event you hosted today? So today was our first boutique sample sale so it was just friends and family invite only. It was kind of just a warm up to a possible launch we are doing in January.It was just an opportunity to invite people to come and see the products and try them on if they wanted to. What are the advantages of luxury second hand clothes? Luxury is becoming more and more expensive every year and prices go up more with each designer and obviously with the state of the economy now a days less people are able to afford to buy designer clothes and the gap is getting bigger and bigger. There are still a lot of people that appreciate and love designer goods but there is no way they can afford them so either they buy fake goods or second hand goods, and this just gives them the opportunity to have the same

Is that what inspired you to start this business? Well basically I have grown up in London. I’ve been to many sample sales in my day long with many friends. After a while we ended up having a huge collection of designer clothes we weren’t wearing and which we had bought because cause it was a bargain at the time and so we wanted to and… so we started doing clothes swapping parties were you come and you swap with your friends or you buy an item off your friends and kind of the idea came from that. In the end I had so many products that people starting given them to me to upload on the website, so that’s why it’s a website now. What do you think the most important part of your business is? Well the business is defiantly two fold, there’s the buying and the selling so you constantly need new products so your constantly finding new sellers and new buyers as well so in the marketing and advertising industry you need to find people that are interested in new products whether it’s through the Google search engine or though social media networks. This is the most important aspect. Why do you think a lot of people throw away their clothes instead of re-using them or recycling them? I think that people don’t want to give away their clothes ifthey are worth something and similarly if they think they are worth

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What do you think the future has in store for pre-loved clothes?

nothing they can’t be bothered to sell them or take it to a charity shop so they just put clothes in the bin. But I also think people aren’t aware of the fact that charities are collecting whatever state clothes are in and sending them to counties that can’t afford the luxury of throwing clothes away. There are also recycling centers in Britain which recycle different materials and they become different formats.

I think it is very fashionable now a days, to have your own unique style so the good thing about pre loved clothes is that it is very unlikely you’d go to a party dressed the same as someone else or see someone else in the same outfit as you at an event; So it’s kind of an opportunity to dress in your own unique way so therefor I think people are becoming more aware of second hand clothes and it’s becoming more popular.

Do you think people are aware of the importance of recycling clothes compared to other materials? Umm, no well I think there is a big awareness now a days of recycling materials such as glass, plastic, cans , aluminium’s (stuff like this). You also get some households in London that have special bins from their council which have sections where you can put paper in one bin and food waste in the other bin for example but there isn’t any material section so maybe this is why people aren’t very aware; but if you go down to a recycling center there are material recycling bins available as well. How do you think perceptions can be changed for recycling clothes? I think that recycling is becoming more and more popular now a days so it’s just a matter of time before people are used to recycling certain items and then other things are going to be introduced so I think it’s too much to throw everything at the public at one time and expect them to go through their whole house hold so I think bit by bit it is getting better but I think there is still definitely progress to be made in terms of awareness.

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Ceri Heathcote Consent

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Interview via Email Ceri Heathcote, writer for The Ethical Fashion Forum Intelligence Magazine and a blogger at Oxfam, was interviewed via email to gain further insight into a key case study Oxfam and talk in depth about recycling clothes. This was conducted on the 1st of November. Consent was given. Interview with Ceri Heathcote– Who buys second hand clothes and what is the motivation behind it? What are the advantages of recycled fashion/ second hand clothes? You get more for your money in terms of quality and it is also better for the environment because it stops clothing going into landfill. For each new piece of clothing that we buy there will be an environmental impact that can includes carbon footprint, use of non renewal resources and pollution by buying second hand we avoid these impacts. Do you buy and/or sell second -hand clothes? WHY? I buy second hand clothing because I like to refresh my wardrobe constantly and it is better for the environment than buying new.

second hand clothing ethical or simply commercial? Would depend on the person. For some it is ethical, for many it is also about money and finding a different look to the generic looks on the high street. Why do you think people up-cycle their clothes? Do you? Because they love a piece of clothing and they don’t want to part with it but want to update it, because they want to reduce their waste or because they love getting creative with their clothing. Yes I do for all of the above reasons. Why do you think so many people throw away their clothes instead of recycling? Perhaps because they are lazy, can’t be bothered or don’t understand or care about their environmental impact.

Who do you think buys pre-loved clothes? Anyone who cares about the environment or wants to get better quality for their money. Do you think charity shops target a more ethical consumer compared to those that Why do you think people buy vintage? Do buy and sell vintage clothing? I am not sure you? that they actually target an ethical consumer Yes I buy vintage. I think people buy vintage but I think maybe the charitable aspect because they love vintage styles and because may be particularly attractive to ethical much vintage clothing is better made than consumers. modern high street fashion. Do you think that Charity shops that continue to freshen up their image and Is the motivation behind buying vintage/ attract the fashion-conscious as well as the ethical shopper will be successful 180

in diverting shoppers from the likes of Primark and New Look to their doors? I am not sure, it is possible. I think celebrity endorsement could probably be one of the biggest drivers of this kind of change.

What does the future have in store for pre loved clothes?

I think eventually the cost of new clothing could be forced to rise by shortages and the global economy and pre loved clothing Do you think there has been a shift in could become much more popular and consumerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perceptions of charity shops highly sought after. However the popularity and wearing second-hand pieces? Yes I thin of pre loved clothing will always be k it has become much more fashionable and determined by supply and in order for there acceptable amongst young people perhaps to be a supply of preloved clothing there will because of the effect of fashion bloggers, still need to be plenty of new clothing made. street style and celebrities wearing vintage. I think whether people charity shop or not Does Oxfam fashion have any exciting could be determined by how much time plans for 2013? I am not sure about this, they have. Initiatives which make charity you could try contacting Kelly â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Koconnor@ shops more accessible like the Oxfam online oxfam.org.uk shop will help to increase popularity. Do you think people are aware of the importance of recycling clothes compared to other materials? Yes, I think so although much household recycling is enforced, but recycling of clothes is not. How do you think perceptions can be changed? It needs to be perceived as fashionable and trendy. I think people need to be attracted by what charity shops have to offer rather than being made to feel guilty about buying fast fashion. What is the reality of the situation in terms of eco fashion? I think it has moved on in leaps and bounds in the last few years but still has a long way to go before it is widely accepted and becomes the norm rather than the exception. 181

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Erica FaceBook Messages A similar questionnaire was also conducted via email to a sustainable business professional, with over a decade experience working within the environmental sector. A career focused on eco-tourism and sustainable fashion, craft, fair trade, and ethical product. Erica is the writer of a successful sustainable fashion blog (www. recycled-fashion.com), co-founder (and co-editor of) an additional collaborative sustainable sewing fashion blog, and cofounded an online marketplace focused on recycled art, craft, gifts, and fair trade product. Through primary research it was possible to gain insight into who the ethical consumer really is, and what the motivational drivers are behind the second hand clothing industry

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Ercia Consent via Email

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Erica Email Transcript Can you tell us a little about who you are? Hi, I’m Erica, I’m in my 30’s, dual Australian-British Nationality. I live in a Melbourne Bayside suburb, Australia, with my husband, pre-school age son, and cat.

In recent years, I began writing a successful sustainable fashion blog (www.recycledfashion.com), I co-founded (and co-editor of) an additional collaborative sustainable sewing fashion blog, and co-founded an online marketplace focused on recycled art, craft, gifts, and fair trade product.

Here is a snippet from my linkedin account:

What most interests you about recycled fashion?

A sustainable business professional, with over a decade experience working within the environmental sector. A career focused on eco-tourism, wildlife conservation, community development, and more recently involved with sustainable fashion, craft, fair trade, and ethical product.

The fact that you can look great by choosing second hand fashion, which does not dent a hole in your pocket, nor have an effect on environment (buying new utilises new resources, and new materials, second hand does not)

Having studied Business & Finance, Business Administration and Interior Design, I ventured into Project Management for retail store development. After extensive international travel, experiencing the plight of underprivileged communities in developing countries, and seeing how our environment is impacted by our fast-paced consumer driven society, my career focus changed for the better. I began working for one of the world’s leading environmental and philanthropic volunteer travel organisation’s for seven years. I set up and managed the Australasian branch of the organisation, developing new strategies, partnerships, web marketing, PR, finance, recruitment and management of new employees.

Fashion can be damaging to our environment. The never ending cycle of fashion brings new garments every season, which very soon become out of fashion, and can quickly end up in landfill. What are the advantages of recycled fashion/second hand clothes? By choosing to restyle second-hand garments, this eliminates the necessity to buy new, and at the same time creates something far more unique and in some ways more interesting than mainstream fashion. Do you buy and/or sell second -hand

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clothes?

style of vintage clothing Is the motivation behind buying vintage/ second hand clothing ethical or simply commercial?

I buy second hand, but I do not sell WHY? I really do not see any need to buy new, there is an abundance of clothing in existence, whether that be in charitable shops, jumble sales, boot sales, eBay, etsy, or in our own wardrobes.

Why do you think people up-cycle their clothes? Why do you?

Who do you think buys pre-loved clothes?

Wanting to look unique, at the same time cost saving. Upcycling clothes to your own size, style and shape can be far more flattering than buying off the rack. They money saved in buying second hand and refashioning, is a huge bonus. Lastly, I do so because I believe there are far too many clothes already in circulation, so I may as well utilize existing textiles.

Creative individuals; ones that experiment with their outfits and style, students, individuals that choose to life a frugal life, the elderly, and those that choose to do so for environmental reasons. Why do you think people buy vintage? Do you? Yes, I do buy some vintage clothing. I do believe that vintage clothing is of a higher quality than that of today. Fabric choices (certainly before 1970â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s when polyester came into play) were better, and the quality of workmanship. I do believe this is why we still see quality vintage clothing for sale. I do wonder if weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see clothing made today, still in one piece and for sale in decades to come. Why do I think people buy vintage? a) For the reasons above b) It has become trendy c) Some individuals prefer the cut and

Probably more-so, commercial, but maybe even due to a change in the economy encouraging people to increase their frugal ways, thus choosing second hand clothing as it is cheaper.

Why do you think so many people throw away their clothes instead of recycling? Laziness and/or ignorance Do you think people are aware of the importance of recycling clothes compared to other materials? No, definitely not aware. We are encouraged to recycle our plastic, cardboard, glass, but there is little emphasis on recycling textiles.

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How do you think perceptions can be changed? With the increased awareness of recycling or upcycling clothes: a) more sewing/refashion bloggers that are putting forward their ideas for others to be inspired by b) access to workshops, classes and talks to reiterate and teach others how and why to recycle clothes c) Celebrities embracing second hand What is the reality of the situation in terms of eco fashion? There appears to be signs of hope in the world of eco fashion, with new initiatives popping up all over the world, embracing ethical and recycled fashion. But, on a larger scale, most people simply do not understand, nor care, for eco fashion; there is still a long way to go. What does the future have in store for pre loved clothes? I believe the stigma of buying second clothing has in many ways changed, and that is a good thing. Because buying recycled fashion saves money, and in some ways is now trendy, I do believe more people will be choosing to buy second hand in the future.

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Irakni Voice Recording Transcript Irakni Interview Transcript – Male Age 31

online that in a shop.

Face to Face interview, however participant did not agree to be recorded so just the voice recording was used. Conducted 1st December Pimlico London at the Luxury Sample Sale.

Does it not bother you that you can’t try them online? Not really because I look good in everything. (laughs)

Do you think it’s fashionable for men to dress in second hand clothes?

Would you ever buy second hand clothes? No.

No.

Why?

Because it’s nasty! (Laughs) But I’m speaking as a male who is not subjective to becoming a brand victim like the females are because the marking campaigns conducted very often are playing the insecurities of the opposite sex; insecurities that males do not necessarily possess.

( pause ) I don’t know. Are you interest in fashion? ( pause ) No not really? What do you think about a fashion website as oppose to a fashion shop? I think it is pretty interesting as a concept and I think there is a lot of demand for it and I think there’s is a lot of interest from female consumers. As a male do you prefer to shop online or in a shop? I think online. Why is that? I get feeling that I can acquire a better value

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Online Questionnaire Once the target consumer was identified a few initial questions were answered in one final online survey focussing on consumer lifestyle. This was to further analyse in depth, the motivations behind the buying of second hand clothes, and really tap into the main insights. Online techniques also help to decrease location bias gathering a more representative sample. All women in the sample had purchased at least once a piece of second-hand clothing in the past (screening question). 54 participants completed the online survey. Results suggests that there is room to encourage the importance of ethical clothing and recycling materials in the market. An interest in second hand fashion is a positive starting point in terms of further creating awareness of the ethical issues attached to the stigma of vintage, with a positive response for second hand clothes is already apparent. To back up the results, mintel states that many students have adopted a ‘spend now, pay later’ attitude: six in ten accept that debt is just part of university life. (Mintel 2011, ‘student lifestyles’: Online)

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Blank Questionnaire

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Results

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Focus Group Transcript The focus group was conducted with a small group of female students from Nottingham Trent, with their ages ranging from 19 to 22. The participants were chosen by the researcher because they all wore second hand clothing, and for their availability. A pilot study was conducted to test the procedures, specifically the focus group interview guide, and audio recording equipment. Research questions were carefully considered and are provided throughout. The focus group was conducted on the 29th December in Nottingham. Tamsin Pancoust Charlotte Guest Cerys Owen Julia Pease Ginti 1. What motivates you to acquire and wear second hand clothing?

is skanky! You can get some lush stuff in Vintage shops in Nottingham and when paired with high-street it can look really cute. Its definitely a style that encourages me to shop in vintage shops cause before it came into fashion I used to get everything from Topshop. TP- Yer I know you can get some really nice chunky cardigans in vintage stores and if you search at car boot sales you can find some real bargains, but it’s hassle and I don’t really have time so it ends up being easier to pay a tenner for something in Primark. (PAUSE) JP – Thrift shopping is fun too cause you never know what you are going to find. I’ve found some really cool things in second hand stores before like all my old vinlys which I collect and cute vintage boxes that I keep my stuff it. That’s what makes it fun.

TP - Erm I don’t often buy from charity shops or vintage stores because I tend to just get all my clothes in Primark now (LAUGHS)

TP – My friend got an amazing fur coat from a car boot sale for a fiver and they are about £70 quid in all the vintage stores in town, and the ones in Zara are about £150!

JP- Yer I know what you mean cause sometimes the stuff in Primark is cheaper than stuff in Cow and Backlash which are real vintage, so sometimes it does seem pointless; but saying that I do buy loads of clothes in charity shops where it is much cheaper.

CG- I can’t really comment cause I never shop in second hand stores I cant be bothered to search for things!

(PAUSE) CO – I never buy stuff in charity shops it always smells bad and everything is there

(ALL LAUGH) 2. What factors do you identify as important to acquire secondhand clothing? JP – Cheap as chips, well it is if you go where I go like all the charity shops back home in York and jumble sales you can pick 199

up a top for a quid in there. G – I definitely think of the ethical issues when buying second hand because being from Lithuania I here loads horror stories about children working illegally in factories. I can get clothing for less than a pound over there and when I bring my stuff England everyone askes me ‘where it’s from’ and ‘how much it was’ and their always shocked when I tell them how cheap it is. So I guess price is really important but I have heared stories of people buying clothing in primark and finding messages stitched into the lining like from children in slave labour and stuff. Ive heard that big factories have to check the stitching before they sell it on because befor they have found ‘help me’ stiched into the hem or lining. (PAUSE)

have done it if they were really poor I suppose? 3. What factors do you think are important for women to acquire second-hand clothing currently? TP- Fashion trends defo like vintage and retro and stuff . CO- Yer I only buy vintage clothing cause I think it’s cute and it’s in fashion. Even Topshop and American and appeal have vintage inspired clothes now. TP- Also, I think older women might buy from charity shops and things to help society and the environment, whereas are age group doesn’t seem to care as much or know much about it so I think it depends on your age. CO- Ive seen more men wearing vintage too. like the Addidas trainers and old school Airmax’s cause it looks trendy I think.

JP – Oh My god that’s horrible TP- There you go Hannah some great stuff for your project!

JP- I don’t think older men would though

(LAUGHS)

TP- No my dad definitely wouldn’t!

G – But its true, too be honest after I heard that I started buying more second hand clothes cause it really freaked me out

(LAUGHS)

CO- That’s horrific! I never think of wear my clothes come from at all I just buy what’s in fashion, I feel bad now!

CO – I think it depends what industry you’re in. I don’t think a working class women would go into vintage shops and charity shops.

G- My dad doesn’t even go shopping

(PAUSE) 3.Anyways... (LAUGHS) What factors do you think were important for women to acquire secondhand clothing initially? CG- In the olden days they probably bought second hand clothing because they couldn’t actually afford clothes. JP- Yer there wasn’t really any environmental issues back then so that wouldn’t have been a reason. They might

G- No they might if they are into fashion they might rent expensive luxury vintage cause they have loads of shops like that in London, and its becoming more and more fashionable...

TP – Yer I suppose but I couldn’t imagine someone who is in a professional environment to wear anything from a second hand store cause it wouldn’t portray a good image. Well I know I wouldn’t because I would want to look smart and I 200

just think most things second hand smell a bit bad or look worn out, and that would look bad in a work place.

got £200 last year when I sold all my vintage stuff on there. Its effort but is worth it if your selling vintage or Topshop.

CO – Yer I think the more money you have the less likely you are to thrift shop, but there is the one off person that will spend loads of money on a high quality vintage item in London or something.

TP – I was going to put my stuff on Asos market place but you have to take all the pictures on a person and it was too much effort so I ended up given loads of my stuff to my friends. I can’t be bothered to take it to a charity shop.

4. What factors do you identify as important to wear second hand clothing?

(LAUGHS)

G- I have taken my stuff to one of those bins at the tip that recycle clothing, but that was TP – I feel like I should say the environment only once and because I had a car. I wouldn’t ,but if I’m honest I never ever think about do it now because I don’t even know how that. to get there and it would be so much effort carrying it all there. I’ll probably sell some (PAUSE) stuff that I think will make over a tenner on JP – Yer me neither I never think about Ebay and just throw the rest out in bin bags recycling clothes I can’t be bothered to cause it’s just easier. put everything up on Ebay; but even if I Thank you that’s great guys! did I wouldn’t consider it as recycling as I would be doing it for money not to help the environment. CO - A unique style is important I think cause that’s one of the reasons I buy vintage because I don’t think anyone else will have one alike. I’m so sick of getting something I really like from Topshop and seeing about 50 girls in it when you go out! TP – Yer I hate that I would rather get a cute cheap top at a boot fair plus then I would care if someone wants to borrow it or if it gets ruined 5. When clothing is no longer needed, wanted, or used, what do you do with it and why MG- I do give stuff to charity but that’s properly only because my mum takes it for me when I do a clear out. CO- I Ebay them all. Reworked vintage especially goes for loads of money on Ebay I 201

Focus Group Consent I am a fashion communication and promotion student, and as part of my programme of study a, undertaking research into the rise of the second hand clothes industry. To enable me to answer my research question, I wish to talk to you about your role within the buying and selling of second hand clothes. The focus group will be a focussed discussion and will take approximately 30 minutes. It will be focused on where you shop and why, and what you think about second hand trends. The focus group will be taped and transcribed, and should you want a copy of the transcription then please ask me and I will arrange for one to be sent to you. The information you give me will be used in support of my work and will be written up in my dissertation. Anything you say will be treated with the strictest confidence and your contribution to the discussion will not be attributed to you as an individual, what you said will be used for illustration only; to reinforce a point that I am making. Your names will be used however. The results will be used as part of my university assessed work, as part of primary research in order to create recommendations for the research project. It will be read by my tutor and be made available to the external examiner. The tapes will be kept on a password protected computer and will be destroyed once I have completed my degree and graduated. If you want to find out more about the project you can contact me on 07756698136, or email me at N0330610@ntu.ac.uk

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Consumer Profiles

Tamsin Pancoust Russian Hat I got this in a vintage shop in Nottingham, I think it was Backlash. I think they look cute and can really dress up a high street outfit to make it ‘vintagey’. Plus it’s warm! Top I actually got this from a car boot fair. It was about 20p I think. I got it from a stall that had bundles of ‘vintage’ or old clothes (depends out you look at it). But paired with black skinny’s and my Russian hat it looks really fashionable. Shoes Also a vintage treasure I got from the car boot sale which is where I go most Sundays, mainly for fun but everything there is so cheap and older people especially don’t know that their stuff could go for a lot more than a few pence on sights such as Ebay. Cornflakes I just wanted to include this box of corn flakes because they are my favourite and

pretty old school now I imagine Tattoo Magazine I love tattoos, I have 5 myself and I’m currently saving up to get a new one. I really like the pin up designed tattoos that are really common at the moment. Umbrella My little sister’s umbrella, I think it’s really cute. Not sure why I wanted to include it I just think the silly lady bird design is quite ‘me’. Shirt I bought this shirt at a charity shop in Nottingham, I think it was White Rose actually. I like the cream colour and floral pattern. The vintage floral designs and pastel colours is what I like most about the style. Red Clutch Bag This was actually my mums from when she was my age (21). It’s hard to find nice second hand clutch bags that can pass for modern. Phone

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Unfortunately this is my phone. I wanted to include this because it shows how my money affects what I buy. Although I am a student with a loan I still make sure I watch what I spend it on and so buying genuine

vintage from a boot fairs and second hand stores is a great way to keep in style and dress differently. However the phone isn’t really out of choice.

Cery Owen Scarf I got this scarf from COW in Nottingham. It normally just ties it round my bag or put it in my hair, it helps to jazz up an outfit. Cross Chain My favourite necklace and I got it from Topshop. I wear it every day; I really like the whole cross trend which is in all the magazines at the moment. Jeffery Campbell’s I had to include these shoes because I invested so much money in them and I wear them every time I go out. They go great with vintage shorts, making the whole outfit stand out. Plus they are easy to walk in. Illustration Book I am a graphics student and this book helps

give me a lot of inspiration for my work. Bobble hat A hat can always put a twist on an outfit. I think bobble hats make an outfit look quirky and cool. Creepers These are my double sole creepers. Being short I feel that not only do these shoes give me extra height but they are a great alternative to heals on a night out. Plus they go with my purple hair. Hair dye Bright purple! I like to stand out and be different, and being an art student, I think this is the time I can really get away with an ‘alternative’ style.

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Mental Mapping Mental Mapping techniques were undertaken as a way to creatively discover how much people remember charity shops compared to vintage shops. The lace market in Nottingham was a perfect place to do this, as there are many vintage and charity shops in that area such as: Oxfam, White Rose, Red Cross, A Vintage Obsession, Vintage Warehouse, Cow and Wilder.

It was discovered that most people recalled vintage stores and boutiques compared to non-profitable organisations. This clearly demonstrates lack of awareness to recycle to ethical and environmental issues which clearly shows there is a weakness within the recycle clothes industry. These are some of the drawings.

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Visual Merchandising

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H&M Case Study

‘A

t H&M, our business concept is to offer fashion and quality at the best price. For us, sustainability is at the core of the concept of quality and part of our corporate values’ (Karl-Johan Persson, 2011, H&M: Online) H&M is a prime example making 25 million pairs of shoes using water based glue. Through H&M’s new ethical code of conduct they have become the market leader in sustainability among fast-fashion brands. Through the implementation of H&M’s cotton conscious collection it has become the number one user of organic cotton globally, ‘’The collection showcases the diversity of what is now possible in greener fashion with outfits in different styles reflecting the variety of today’s red carpet fashion.’ (H&M (2012) in Plank 2012: Online). The brand is now working towards the goal of sourcing all cotton from more sustainable sources and pledging to rid its supply chain of hazardous chemicals by 2020 (Style Sight, 2013). However with H&M selling 550 garments per year and only 7.6% of cotton is organic (Melius 2012, WGSN) it can be questioned

whether ‘ethical’ is even the correct term to use. This is a clear example of how the brand is portraying themselves as ethical to the consumer, with their cotton policy representing a major shift in the industry. Many brands are following in their footsteps, such as Puma who are set to launch a biodegradable fashion line in 2013. Detailed in H&M’s conscious Action sustainability report 2011, H&M saved 300 million litres of water from denim production, used the equivalent of 9.2 million plastic bottles for recycled polyester, and become the world’s number one user or organic cotton. The brand has since signed up the Greenpeace Detox campaign in response to activists who poster stickers on H&M’s shop windows, pledging to rid its supply chain of hazardous chemicals used in denim production such as sandblasting by 2020 (H&M, 2011. ‘H&M’s CONSCIOUS ACTIONS Sustainability report’ 2011: Online).

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Critcal Path When the project started, initially my plan was to start my research as soon as possible during the first few weeks of workshops. I wanted to establish the strength of the project and make sure there was enough plausible research to enable me to make recommendations and question the industry. I knew second hand clothes, was a route I wanted to take because of my personal interest in vintage styles. I attended a conference at the Designer Forum on future trends in October to help steer my project, and I also looked through past work to see what my strong points were. I found that a feminine, creative and vintage style was something that I kept going back to in terms of visuals. I also started pinning a lot of visuals and report layout inspiration throughout this time, and collected magazine rip outs to help motivate my creative ideas. Being an intern a Sophia’s Closet, (the second hand luxury boutique) over summer till now also enabled me to learn a lot about the industry and gave me the opportunity to conduct face to face interviews and attend the sample sales. By October, I had a huge bulk of online research collected, and this enabled me to cut down the parts which were relevant and helped me discover my research question. However, I did struggle to find relevant books on the subject as many were dated; therefor journals were my main source of secondary research. A lot of the material was on the consumer and so initially I decided to focus my report of ‘peoples motivation to buy second hand’, researching into ethical, environmental and commercial motivations. However after

conducting several interviews through to mid-November, I realised that brands and non-profitable organisations also have an important role to play. Therefore I changed my question to ‘the motivation drivers of the second hand clothes industry’. This also enabled me to look at trends and tribes in more detail. Further advice given by my tutor and feedback from my interim presentation, also helped me to include key players within in the industry and look at the market in more detail. I also prepared my chapter plan essentially built the skeleton of my report. I wrote the majority of my report before December, so it could spend Christmas proof reading the copy and re-organising it. I also cut a lot of information out which I felt strayed away from my research question. Further advice given by my tutor and feedback from my interim presentation also helped me to include key players within in the industry and look at the market in more detail. By having the writing done by 1st January it gave me 2 weeks to reference fully and put everything in the appendix. I then had another 2 weeks to design the document, where I printed it out on black and white and went through each page to check the layout and proof read for the final time. I sent to document to print a week before the hand it, giving me enough time to bind the document, add in textured babe and get my cd cover designed.

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Initially research via Mintel and online sights on the recycling clothes industry to initially establish a gap in the market. I then created a mind map to brainstorm my ideas and possible routes I could take. Si Beales gave me confidence in my idea and encouraged me to create a recycling clothes scheme, similar to that of Asos and Ebay. I began to use pinterest to store my visual inspiration and ideas. Lucy Norris’s lecture on looking beyond the usual resources inspired me to look into other areas of the industry such as interiors and the recycling of other materials. After this lecture I looked at Steven Miesel’s work in vogue and continued to reference this in my work. On this day I also hired a camera and did photography around Nottingham at the vintage stores and charity shops. Most of online questionnaire results collected during this time period in Nottingham city centre. I wanted to gather as much primary research at this time to help steer my project and validate research. Further insight from my tutorial encouraged me to look at the Quicksilver and Roxy campaign I emailed a range of ethical and vintage fashion bloggers over this time period. It was expected that only a few would reply. I began to gather important quotes from mainly books to helo direct my writing. I also created my first chapter plan at this time. I began to analyse different consumer types using the questionnaire results. I also began to look at relevant brands within the industry during this time. I looked at a range of sectors such as vintage, charity, highstreet and luxury. I could also further compare consumer types and discover who the ethical consumer was. Ceri Heathcote replied via email with her interview answers on this date. A pest and swot was created through full analysis of the market. This gave me an overall understanding of the problems at hand and key issues. Over time I then cut this down to make it relevant to my report. This also allowed me to established key players within the industry. The workshop with Tim about creative methods inspired me to conduct mental mapping and Vox Pox techniques from this time till Christmas. Erica email interview reply enabled me to gain further insight into the main report topics and validate research. I collected ‘second hand fashion’ leaflets and event flyers. Past reports shown to us in tutorial, gave me and deeper understanding of the amount of research needed and the importance of clarity within visual language. Joined designer forum and gathered lots of importance research with added depth to the research I had already gathered. It also gave me information on future trends and consumer behaviours. A face to face interview at ‘A vintage Obsession’ in Nottingham was conducted and recorded. The interview focused on vintage trends. Soon after I completed my official chapter plan. London V&A visit helped me gain knowledge on the history of second hand clothes. I also conducted a face to face interview with Charlotte O’Brien at Sophia’s closet, and helped out at the luxury sample sale, where I took pictures and blogged about the event. I also interviewed (via voice recording) an older male participant, which allowed me to compared and create gender differences. This encouraged me to create an online male survey. The vintage fair allowed me to gain understanding into visual merchandising methods, and take pictures of the event. It also inspired me to elaborate on trends and styles. Most of online questionnaire results collected and analysed around this time. I then began to make my recommendations and create website mock ups and logos. Over this time I analysed my primary research and created my appendix. The focus group was conducted on this date with students. I also added consumer profiles to my report using a compilation of items from two participants from the focus group. My writing was completed by this time and I began to Harvard reference. I also printed out my work several times and proof read. I started to put my dissertation in to Indesign, creating information graphics and adding appropriate visuals. Sewed in swing tags and got document printed on various paper textures. Front cover was designed.

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