PERSPEX Fashion Communication and Promotion Hannah Wood N0642592
CONTENTS Advertising Comparison 4
Louis Vitton
5
Valentino
Creative Context 8-9 Interior & Art 10-11Fashion & art
The Big Idea 16-17 idea plan 18-19 idea
2
Visual Merchandise 6
The Dover Street
7
Primark
Cultural Context 12-13 The 60’s 14-15 Fluanting your assets
20-21 - Refrences &
Illustrations
INTRO
Clear plastics and perspex was in particular a prominent trend in the year 2013-2014. And ever since, the creative industry has taken inspiration at many different market levels, covering different contexts, such as, Visual merchandise, interior design, and art/sculpture. We also look at the cultural, social and historical side to clear plastics taking us back to where plastic fashion began. This magazine should provide you with the insight into the further meaning of perspex and clear plastic in relation to fashion and the creative industries.
3
the Perspex trend, and although they’re both the same (high mid/low high) market level, they have taken a very different approach to the styling of the trend. With Louis Vuitton going for a more playful and ‘cute’ connotation that fits with there brands message and therefore there target consumer. Whilst Valentino has kept a more refined and structured approach to
Perspex review: Louis Vuitton and Valentino
the overall images. This may be to do with the age of the consumers, Louis Vuitton’s being perhaps younger than Valentino’s due to the style of products there promoting. Comparing the art direction between these two advertisements, you can tell that Louis Vuitton has clearly considered the fold in the middle of the page of a magazine as they’ve created a visual contrast, which is set from the middle. Louis Vuitton’s campaign plays with the idea of symmetry, making it pleasing to eye, and with one model slightly set off, it makes for a nice visual, which personally I think focuses you to the products (the bags) making it a successful advertisement. Assisted with a very strong colour theme, Louis Vuitton’s being pinks and whites
4 Fig 2.
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton and Valentino both adopted
h their ng wit lo a g in d ), runn ach an colours l appro e fu y la (pastel p the shin and d using minine n a fe , ry s y e v ter g gre the ligh o’s bein h create to Valentin x e to eac Persp ealing r p a p le a c , ain of the I find it ge, ag wever the ima o f H o . s rs rt pa n the me go dow t consu e ’t n rg id ta d tino of the rmally t Valen are no s ting tha c ti s s re la te p in so s clear anner, look, a olous m iv fr playful re mo take on erious s ted in a o a m e e ro p to s ed on eshing y decid fr e re th it g I find e this restin I believ . l its inte h a ri c a te a ppro the m e seen ative a could b onserv c d n re e o tr am n to use the be see e beca I could re might b fo ere if taken , and th image d s fa d n a ra as eb portray r both ening th e p v a e e w h nect t. Ho be c to con contex r l e fu y m la u ns n into a p the co l opinio t helps ersona a p th y ry M nt. a sto in a rtiseme inderella e adve C f th o h it ry w ers e sto ss slipp used th the gla f o is there air, a e id pex ch ay, the e pers th y settle w b ted presen being re
Fig 3.
Valentino
and the style of coat worn is supposed to represent her rags, it’s a very modern and perhaps complicated representation. When as Louis Vuitton’s advertising story seems much lighter, and obvious to the eye, you can clearly se it portrays that 50’s vibe, with the ice cream, and hair pinups. Both brands have successfully represented the trend in a way that will appeal to there target consumers, whilst following the trend; they’ve simply adapted it to fit with their brand image. I have touch on is the fact that both theses brands are from the same high-end market level. And although I wanted to analyze two different sectors, I couldn’t find any examples of advertising campaigns with the perspex trend even though I knew the brands sold the trend. I think this is because the higher end brands can promote the trend because it perspex in that context looks futuristic, and stylish and they can basically look expensive because they are expensive. However when sold at a lower market level, it can appear frivolous and cheap, therefore even though they sell the trend, they don’t want to promote it as it may reflect poorly on the brand due to its context.
5
Per sp in w ex has indo bee ws nu yea sed and rs. It’s to in pro mo s t o pa st c re s suppo nd rt f o h con mm o seg not una p disp ashion me a t n lay lly any ions t, d for thin ispla used g in , and to f it is y s it ram par a d by s o ticu esn it ha e, act fash lar. ’ ing ion The t repre s no a s as sen ass as it t ista way I li ap nce rom can e ke me t it o in h t o er b rch ent see be and par es and ise een st sell t of the o the t rs refo app disp o app re n imply are ear la n y o l o / t dis its s visu t to type elf. trac al be so I’ see t f br sell and ve cho ing for na sh mt ll, , sen ig The h-e h in L e t w n D a ond d, f o c o t v ver ual ash on be Stre ery diff and ion a ve ere et, f o N r r n y war ew whic com t high dc Yor h p ly re k, a loth And any in g in n ard d is g the the ed see eye nP very and n s r im to of t pre low ark, he bra end fash stigiou nd. , low which s ion It’s. is a The cos indu imp ma Dov t an stry o s r s t dh er S com ant m arke . igh to c tree par st t, ons ed t is is m to P mu ider reet ore c r t h im hat on sm s ark t alle eve maller r bu rend, t n in hey if dge size wou Dover t fo r pr S ld t r om hav eet otio ea na mu nd visu ch al
Perspex industry: Visual Merchandising
The Dover Street and Primark
6
Fig 4.
merchandise than Primark due to the size of the establishments. However I think it’s interesting to see how they have both used perspex s in a creative way in order to present their apparel. A normal Primark store would never normally be something worth talking about in context to visual merchandise, however this particular flag ship store in London has created a really industrial, and futuristic looking display. “Focusing on contemporary fixtures, elegantly curated throughout. The focal point is the sweeping Perspex plinth installation, used to display footwear.” (Ref 1. Claire Dickinson, 2015. WGSN. Claire Dickinson. Available at: wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk) In particular I like the way it forms a mysterious shadow, as if the shoes are floating. Which leads me to the similarity of The Dover Streets display.
Fig 5.
Fig 6.
The bags on top of the chairs first appear to be floating and the combination of mirrors and perspex confuses the eye. This style of visual merchandise is typical of The Dover Street and their type of styling, with the clothes being so expensive, expressive and creative, its important not to distract from them as they could be seen to sell themselves. Unlike Primark who needs to try in order to come across as ‘cool’ to persuade consumers to change there
Fig 7.
opinion on the brand, and buy the clothes. However I think its important to note that this visual merchandise has not been rolled out across all the stores, which I presume is due to cost and practicality, but also because its probably not what there normal target consumers are expecting. Its perhaps more acceptable in London, but would be received as well in there smaller town stores.
7
Fig 9. Perspex can be used in an art form, most frequently seen as an instillation. Perspex is a great material to use as it can be easily cut into any shade. It’s also a cheaper, safer, lighter alternative to glass. I particularly like what Olarfur Eliasson created which was a maze of rooms made from sheets of different coloured perspex, with cleaver lighting. “Olafur Eliassonis a Danish-Icelandic artist known for sculptures and large-scale installation art employing elemental materials such as light, water, and air temperature to enhance the viewer’s experience.” (Ref 2. Emily Cather, 2015, WGSN. Available at: wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk) I think
Perspex industry: Creative context
he pushes the boundaries to instillation, to
8
make you feel differently, and think differently, and I like this particular instillation.
Interiors & Art
Fig 10. ghost chair. 2015
In relation to interior design, perspex has played a role in many different creative ways. One of the most iconic statements is the famous ghost chair. That modern, chic, futurist look has not seemed to go out of trend, the chair has become somewhat of a classic in the industry. Unlike the fashion industry, which seems to pick up and drop clear plastics as and when it pleases, especially in the lower market segments, making it a fad. We know the interior design industry doesn’t move as rapidly as the fashion industry. And I think this is the result of fast fashion, created by high street brands to turn over more produce. The reason I’ve brought this up is because perspex is a cheap alternative to glass and I think its often-used in interior design to keep costs and weight down. Therefore making perspex interiors version of fast fashion.
9
Fig 8. Anders Sune Berg, 2015
10
Perspex industry: Interior fashion & Instilation art
Fashion & Art
Fig. 12
Fig.13
Fig 11. George Ong. 2013
In relation to the different connotation that
comes along with clear plastics in fashion, I’ve narrowed it down to two types. There’s the kind of fashion forward style, which is used in a futuristic, modern, experimental way. Then there are those wearing the material because they’re trying to be seen keeping up with trends. Perspex/clear plastics were worn especially as a trend in the year 2013 -2014, making it a fad. However it defiantly depends on the market level, as the higher end, and higher priced products can afford to be more playful, because it wont cheapen the brand, it just makes them look like there being more
11
experimental which is why they advertise with things like perspex. When as the more high street, and lower priced brands cant allow this to damage there brands image as it just looks like the cheap alternative.
Fig.14
Fig.15
12
Perspex roots : The 60’s
60’s
Fig 16.
s
“In the 60’s designers experimented with shiny new waterproof materials with a modern look like PVC and perspex.” (Ref 4. V&A, 2016, Available at: http://www.vam.ac.uk/ content/articles/h/history-of-1960s-fashionand-textiles/) This is a trend that we still see reappear occasionally, for example the clear plastic mac coat by Burberry and perspex heels on Dior’s boots. But in the 60’s “Paco Rabanne pioneered dresses made from plastic discs and metal links, which looked more like sculpture than clothing.” (Ref 5. V&A, 2016, Available at: http://www.vam. ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-of-1960sfashion-and-textiles/) this style of futuristic and playful dressing has come into our everyday fashion. However a factor I think relates to the cultural and social style to the 60’s is the open and free spirited styles we know have today.
fig. 18 When looking at perspex out of context to
Fig.17
fashion, it came about in the mid 1930’s, and new plastics were used thought World War 2, perspex in particularly was used in plane cockpits. ‘Poly (methyl methacrylate) (PMMA), also known as acrylic or acrylic glass as well as by the trade name, is a transparent thermoplastic often used in sheet form as a lightweight or shatterresistant alternative to glass. The same material can be utilized as a casting resin, in inks and coatings, and has many other uses.’ (Ref 3. Creative Commons AttributionShareAlike License, 2016, Wikipedia, Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ Poly(methyl_methacrylate)) but I would say it didn’t really make an appearance in fashion until the 60’s. It has to be said that perspex may have been used as an alternative to glass in the 60’s as its cheaper, and I think this opinion of perspex social still stands. Although high-end brands are able to pull off this look due to the context. Which it seems bizarre as were still willing to pay the same prices for a plastic looking bag then a real leather bag, but that’s the power of advertising. Were now socially used to not paying for quality, but the brand name instead and I believe this change in mind set came about in the 60’s.
13
Y $ £
Flaunting your assets This social movement I’ve decided to call ‘flaunting my assets’ as its based on the communally seen clear clutch bag that
was extremely popular in the year 2013.
A bag, or a clutch is supposed to contain
Perspex trends
our objects, away from beading eyes. Yet
14
we seem compelled to share our wealth with the outside world. I think this was a
trend, which supported the movement of wanting to appear wealthy, and it’s a way of displaying to the world that you own
designer makeup and well as the bag,
and your bottle of water is Voss and not
just Evian, and you have the latest iPhone,
along with the coolest iPhone case, making suggestions the your wealth.
Didn’t you mum always tell you it was rode to look inside women’s hand bags, well
that’s no long the case, as its turned into
something we do. However when you think about how much women spend on what goes inside their handbags, I
suppose it makes senses to show it off.
However, obviously this means attracting
the unwanted attention of pic pockets and thieves’, which you’d think these women would want to avoid, but if fashion says
clear bags are the next big trend, then it
becomes more important to them than the logical and practical side of the item.
Y $€ Fig 19.
Fig 20.
Fig 21
Fig 22. Tommy Ton, 2013
15
Big
Perspex: The big idea
The
16
My research has shown me how perspex has acted as a prop to assist fashion in many ways, as well as being the fashion its self. I was thinking about other ways in which perspex could assist the fashion industry, when I had the idea to create literal props that would represent our daily used objects like laptops and tablets etc. (life style props). As technology is becoming one of the most important components to our daily lives, we now take them into consideration when buying many things, in particular, bags. Therefore my idea is to have perspex objects placed around a store, which are of the same size and shape as daily used objects, i.e. laptops, iPads, iPhones, water bottles, umbrellas, purses, credit cards perfume bottles, make-up compacts, lip stick. The (Perspex) objects would be placed around the store allowing people to pick up and test out how well the bag suits their needs and lifestyle. Making this concept a way of providing attentive customer service, as it’s a way of assuring the customer that the product meets all the customers needs. Making them more likely to buy the product as they have the reassurance that it will. The style of store I could see this concept being created in would most likely be a middle market bag store like Michael Kors, Kurt Geiger, Kate Spade, Marc Jacobs, Paul Smiths, I think these brands produce and appeal to a market who use bags for both the purpose of work and leisure. Therefore my idea would really help theses style of brands. Another important factor about this
Idea
idea is that it wouldn’t cost much to produce, as perspex isn’t expensive. Which is an important factor to consider as technology changes and develops so frequently, they would need to quickly and cheaply reproduce items at a low cost. Then it got me think about the higher market sectors, and how the shopping habits and lifestyles are different, to the middle market, a and I was considering how my concept could be adapted to this market. So when people are buying customized bags, especially made for there needs, the curator or designer could use the perspex props to allow the customer to pick out what they want the bag to hold, so they can design a bag that can perfectly hold everything snug. This is also a way the brand can find out more about the type of lifestyles that there consumers have, allowing them to target forthcoming products to meet there customers wants. I could also see this idea being played with to produce a visual merchandise display of scaled up versions of the daily used objects dotted around the stores as a way of promoting the idea of making sure all you items fit to the customers. I understand playing with the scale for promotion is used frequently, however it’s effective, and as my concept is about fit, it thinks it would act as a playful and effective way of promoting the concept. Brands like Paul smith and Kate Spade are both brands I could see this idea being successful for as they’re both very playful in terms of promotion, yet there products have a very practical use.
17
Fig. 23
18
Fig 24.
Fig 25.
19
References
Ref 1. Claire Dickinson, 2015. WGSN. Claire Dickinson. Available at: wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk Ref 2. Emily Cather, 2015, WGSN. Available at: wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk Ref 3. Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, 2016, Wikipedia, Available at: https://en.wikipedia. org/wiki/Poly(methyl_methacrylate) Ref 4. V&A, 2016, Available at: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-of-1960s-fashion-and-textiles/ (Ref 5. V&A, 2016, Available at: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-of-1960s-fashion-and-textiles/)
Illustrations
20
Fig 1. Nicole Bentley, 2015. [digital image] Vogue Australia. Available at: http://www.fashiongonerogue.com/ fernanda-ly-pastel-looks-vogue-australia/ Fig 2. Steven Meisel, 2012. [digital image] Louis Vuitton. Available at:http://ola.ohlalamag.com/wpcontent/uploads/2014/11/6a00e54fb7301c88340162fe18d8ce970d.jpg Fig 3. Sarah Moon, 2013. [digital image] Valentino. Available at:http://4.bp.blogspot.com/BI_kJimvy08/UOx8JXmC6II/AAAAAAAATAQ/MwiUKTeLeAw/s1600/valentino-spring-summer-2013-03.jpg Fig 4. Hannah Wood, 2016. [photography] In possession of the author. Fig 5. Hannah Wood, 2016. [photography] In possession of the author. Fig 6. Claire Dickinson, 2015. [digital image] WGSN. Claire Dickinson. Available at: wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk Fig 7. Claire Dickinson, 2015. [digital image] WGSN. Claire Dickinson. Available at: wgsn.com.ezproxy.ntu.ac.uk Fig 8. Anders Sune Berg, 2015. (Your body of work). The beautiful wild. Available at: http://thebeautifulwildmag. com/art-review-olafur-eliassons-reality-machines-at-moderna-museetarkdes/ Fig 9. berta fischer, 2013. [sculpture]. Available at: http://data1.whicdn.com/images/170882312/large.jpg Fig 10. kartell Louis(ghost chair). Unkown. Available at: https://www.esturri.com/images/Kartell-Silla-Victoria-Ghost.jpg Fig 11. George Ong. 2013. [digital image]. Available at: http://www.virtualshoemuseum.eu/chau-har-lee/2013 Fig 12. Unkown. [photography]. Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/390124386446372540/ Fig 13. Unkown. [photography]. Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/371476669243389282/ Fig 14. Unkown. [photography]. Available at: http://glamourandpearls.blogspot.co.uk/2013_04_01_archive. html Fig 15. Unkown. [photography]. Available at: http://wheretoget.it/look/256890 Fig 16. Unkown. [photography]. Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/455989531000487550/ Fig 17. Unkown. [photography]. Available at: https://uk.pinterest.com/pin/542261611352746924/ Fig 18. Peggy Moffit, 2005 [photography]. Available at: http://modbabes.livejournal.com/5112.html Fig 19. Juliet Paylor, 2014. [digital image], The Daily Mail. Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/tvshowbiz/article-2606586/Paris-Hilton-shamelessly-shows-vast-wealth-jumps-transparent-bag-bandwagon.html Fig 20. Mery Schnettler, 2013. [digital imagae]. Available at: http://snacksdeestilo.com/2013/07/tendencia-seethrough-bags/ Fig 21. Unkown. [photography]. Available at: https://www.theoutfit.com/style-tricks-stylish-people-1524337989. html Fig 22. Tommy Ton, 2013. [photography]. Available at: https://daisiesinbloomblog.wordpress.com/2013/03/ page/2/ Fig 23. Unkown. [photography]. Available at: http://figtny.com/category/everyday-life/ Fig 24. Jayne Pickering, 2015. [photography]. Available at: http://www.marieclaire.co.uk/news/548911/christopher-kane-opens-his-london-flagship-store.html Fig 25. Unkown. [photography]. Available at: http://www.talent-lab.it/shop/prodotto/plexiglas-colorato-60x40-cm/
21
Word count: 2595