Ted Puglia © César Ochoa
2012 Tourism & Get-Aways Québec / Montréal/Ottawa / Acadia
Visit us in Frelighsburg! 150, chemin Richford Frelighsburg, QuĂŠbec J0J 1C0 450 298-1226
NATURALLY... LUXURIOUS
Côté Nord Tremblant, a holiday resort concept offering luxurious log homes and waterfront suites for nature lovers and outdoor sports enthusiasts!. • • • • •
2 to 6 bedroom Chalets | 1 to 3 bedroom Suites Pool, tennis, kayak, snowshoe & cross-country trails, bikes Access to a private beach 6 minutes from skiing at Tremblant and the National Park Bistro Caribou on site also offering a full catering service
For a corporate meeting, family holidays, a romantic weekend, a reception or a friendly get-together. Offering quality activity packages and services adapted to your needs.
For more information and to reserve: GQ 1 888 268.3667 • info@cotenordtremblant.com
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RAWDON RIGAUD MONT ST-GRÉGOIRE
1 877 886 5500
Let time stand still ... Health & Beauty Centres and Nordic Spa everywhere in Quebec
•
Massotherapy
•
Body Treatments
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Aesthetic Treatments
www.amerispa.ca 1.866.amerispa GQ l 5
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August 17 – 26, 2012 w w w.cap italp r id e.c a facebook .co m /capitalp r id e GQ l 11
Table Of contents Introduction In the Land of Fabienne Larouche................................16
First Nations Two-spirited History......................................................18 Discover the First Nations Peoples and Culture.......... 20
1- Montréal & surrounding regions Montréal........................................................................22 Old Montréal ................................................................34 Downtown.....................................................................42 The Village ...................................................................54 The Plateau Mont-Royal...............................................82 Hochelaga-Maisonneuve..............................................94
2 - Longueuil & Montérégie / Eastern Townships Longueuil & Montérégie................................................98 Eastern Townships ................................................... 106
3 - Laval / Laurentians / Lanaudière Laval........................................................................... 120 Laurentians................................................................ 124 Lanaudière................................................................. 142
4 - Ottawa / Gatineau / ottawa river valley Ottawa ...................................................................... 152 Gatineau..................................................................... 164 Ottawa Valley, ........................................................... 168
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Table Of contents 5 - Québec City & area Québec City, Cultural Capital..................................... 153 Côte-de-Beaupré & Portneuf..................................... 208 Chaudières-Appalaches............................................ 220 Charlevoix.................................................................. 224
6 - Mauricie & Central Québec Trois-Rivières & Mauricie........................................... 234 Central Québec.......................................................... 244
7 - Saguenay-Lac-St-Jean / North Shore Saguenay................................................................... 252 Lac-Saint-Jean........................................................... 262 The North Shore........................................................ 264
8 - Lower St.Lawrence / Gaspé / Acadia / Madgalen Islands Lower St.Lawrence .................................................. 272 The Gaspé................................................................. 280 Acadia........................................................................ 294 Madgalen Islands.................................................... 299
Les Éditions HMX 2012 Publisher : André Gagnon Contributors :
André Gagnon andregagnon@guidegaiduquebec.com Graphic designers :
Thibaut Temmerman, Antoine Aubert, François Bernier, André Gagnon, David Girard, Vanessa Girouard, Jordan Arseneault, Michael Hawrysh
Étienne Desforges
Sales :
Carolina Ramirez carolina@communicationsetre.com
Luc Barrette luc@communicationsetre.com
Postal address :
Christine Brindamour
C.P. 915, Succursale C, Montréal, Qc 514.523.9463
Pierre Druelle pierre@communicationsetre.com
www.guidegaiduquebec.com
Maude Desjardins maude@communicationsetre.com
Le Guide gai du Québec (Guide GQ). All Rights Reserved. ISSN 0845-4736
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Sharon Olivera sharon@communicationsetre.com
Du 13 au 19 août 2012 Partagez l a fierté
August 13 to 19, 2012 s har e t h e pr i de
fierté M o nt r é a l a parade, presented by viagra, under the theme
our flag our pride
Un défilé, présenté par viagra, sous le thème
notre drapeau notre fierté
www.fiertemontrealpride.com
In the land of FABIENNE LAROUCHE
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uébec is one most openminded nations on Earth when it comes to sexual diversity. It was the first legislature in the Americas to ban discrimination of the basis of sexual orientation in 1977, just a few years after the decriminalization of homosexuality in Canada in 1969. In 2002, Québec’s National Assembly unanimously voted to institute civil unions, going as far as it could before the federal redefinition of marriage in Canada in 2005. In 2009, Québec became one of the rare jurisdictions in the world to adopt a national policy against homophobia. It just goes to show just how welcoming this country is, that you can find GLBT life and culture reflected in all of Québec’s cities and regions. This is largely thanks to the men and women who helped shape modern Québec, among which there are many artists who have helped foster and express this openness. Fabienne Larouche is among these pioneers and her characters are a reflection of the nation’s modern attitudes. Born in the Saguenay and 16 l GQ
residing Laurentians, the screenwriter and producer is the 2012 recipient of the Prix de lutte contre l’homophobie (Fight Against Homophobia Award) from the Fondation Émergence. Because they are a daily part of people`s lives, TV series can allow us to measure the evolution of how homosexuality is perceived, and some of the writer’s series have been part of this evolution. Throughout her career, Fabienne Larouche has drawn a sensitive and honest portrait of Québec’s gay and lesbian community, without falling into clichés or moralizing. While her gay characters don’t always have it easy, their stories get incorporated into the fabric of the world around them, often undramatically. In this spirit, we invite you to discover the diverse regions of Québec, while discovering the men and women who have marked our culture and who are among the pioneers of our community’s proud standing in the four corners of Québec. Bon voyage! André Gagnon, Publisher
We are located 15 minutes from downtown Québec. Open all year long.
Kwe ! Welcome to the Traditional Huron site, the most authentic recreation of an Indian village. Guided tours, canoe rides, strolls in the forest, tales and legends, dance shows, craftsmanship and more.
575, rue Chef Stanislas Koska Wendake, Qc G0A 4V0 Téléphone : 418-842-4308 Télécopieur :418-842-3473 www.huron-wendat.qc.ca wendat@huron-wendat.qc.ca
EDUCATIONAL PACKAGES AND CUSTOM-MADE PACKAGES FOR SPECIAL GROUPS. OUR RESTAURANT NEK8ARRE, CAN WELCOME 180 GUESTS. THE MENUS OFFER ESSENTIALLY GAME AND FISH. ON THE SITE, VISIT THE ‘’LE HURON’’ BOUTIQUE, KNOWN WORLDWIDE FOR THREE GENERATIONS FOR ITS AUTHENTICIT OUR SITE CAN ACCOMMODATE INDIVIDUALS WITH REDUCED MOBILITY.
first nations
Š wikipedia.org
two-spirited History
H
omophobia came to QuĂŠbec and to the larger part of North America the moment the first European colonizers set foot on the continent at the end of the 15th century. As Christians, they were convinced that sex should only be between a man and a woman, for reproductive purposes. As they repressed any homosexual behavior amongst themselves, so colonizers extended this repression to the First Nations people, whose sexual mores were much more open. For the majority of North American First Nations Peoples, sexuality 18 l GQ
was seen as a gift from the gods, to be used with complete freedom. As such, they saw nothing wrong with talking about sex in front of their children, or with children’s sexual exploration, provided all parties were consenting. Nor was sexuality confined to adult marital relations, and as such, men could have several wives, or could marry men who had taken on the role of a woman, i.e. the berdaches or two-spirited ones. The berdache phenomenon is a particular social tradition in which a man decides of his own free will to adopt the role of a woman. The in-
first nations
© firstpeople.us
verse phenomenon existed as well, but was not included in the same term, and is unfortunately less well documented. Whether they were male-born or female-born, twospirited people were held in high esteem because they were seen as holding both feminine and masculine spirits, which made them spiritually more powerful. The use of the term “two-spirited” is now extensively used amongst First Nations Peoples since berdache was seen as having a European origin. Two-spirited people were also discouraged from marrying so that they could devote their lives to shamanism. The annual celebration for the two-spirited shaman would involve having all their partners dance for them. The adoption of the opposite sex’s role came with a change in clothing from the time of puberty. As such, there was no stigma against trans-
vestitism, since it was seen as a perfectly acceptable personal choice. The only restrictive criterion in these societies was that a person had to choose a masculine or feminine identity and stick to it. Nonetheless, it meant that fundamentally one’s sex at birth did not determine one’s future gender role. Over time, and centuries of Judaeo-Christian repression, twospirited people in the formal sense disappeared, but luckily the tradition has not been forgotten. Hence, you have the title of the first gay magazine published in Québec by the ADGQ, l’Association pour la défense des droits des gai-e-s du Québe: Le Berdache was so named as a reminder that homophobia had not always been the norm in this country, even long before the decriminalization of homosexuality in 1969. GQ l 19
first nations
DISCOVER FIRST NATIONS CULTURES
T
he First Nations Peoples of today are reconnecting with their tradition of openness to sexual diversity. In Wendake, only 15 km from Québec City, the Huron-Wendat Nation’s territory is home to the Musée des Premières Nations, which allows you to discover the contemporary and ancient aspects of their culture and societies. Modelled after a traditional Huron long house, the building combines a 55-room hotel, the museum, a restaurant and a boutique all under one roof. The building’s modern design uses high-end natural materials like stone, leather, and wood to create a stunning architectural whole, surrounded by themed gardens and walking trails that make this one of the most unique locations in the entire region – not to mention one of the most beautiful outdoor patios. The HuronWendat Museum has been dedicated to the preservation and promotion of this nation’s cultural and heritage since its opening in 2008. At La Traite restaurant, Martin Gagné expertly serves up nouvelle cuisine dishes inspired by hunting, fishing, and foraging in the Great North. In the gift shop, you’ll find excellent First Nations crafts and artwork, while the hotel is the perfect launch-pad for visiting the Wendake territory and surrounding areas, per20 l GQ
fect for lovers of all kinds of traditional winter activities. Further north still, you’ll want to make a visit to Mashteuiatsh, which was founded in 1856 on a site familiar to First Nations Peoples for thousands of years. On the shores of the Pekuakami (i.e. Lac St-Jean), the village of Mashteuiatsh welcome you as the region’s only remaining indigenous community. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a panoramic view of the Pekuakami, which is more of an inland sea than a lake. The Ilnu Nation Welcome Centre has an interpretive site offer the perfect opportunity to get to know this millennia-old culture and will guide you through it. In spite of the profound inequalities with which First Nations peoples have been fraught – and must be rebuilt in a spirit of equality – the relationship that Québec and Canada have with First Nations peoples constitute a crucial part of our heritage. The enduring inlfluence of FIrst Nations peoples on Québec have lent a profound difference between this country and other states with a history of European colonialism: look no further than the names “Québec” and “Canada” which were both derived from aboriginal words and literally define the countries to this day.
first nations Nikuishkushtakan - Carrefour d’accueil Ilnu 1516 rue Ouiatchouan, Mashteuiatsh G0W 2H0
Site traditionnel huron 575, rue Chef Stanislas Koska Wendake, G0A 4V0
418 275-7200 www.kuei.ca
418.842.4308 www.huron-wendt.qc.ca
Situé à 15 minutes au nord de Québec, le site, authentique reconstitution d’un village indien au Québec, est l’occasion unique de découvrir l’histoire, la culture et le mode de vie des Hurons d’hier et d’aujourd’hui . Ouvert toute l’année, il est préférable de réserver.
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Montréal, the world of
Michel TREMBLAY
Michel Tremblay © Joshua Kessler
T
he novelist and playwright to most famously bring the soul of Montréal to the stage and page is without question, the great Michel Tremblay. For the last forty years, he has brought the language and spirit of working class Montréal to literary heights, leaving an indelible mark on contemporary Québec culture. Translated into countless foreign languages, Tremblay’s work has proven that this so-called «patois» of Québec French has the power to make us laugh, cry, and speak universal truths. 22 l GQ
Since the beginning of the 1970’s, this playwright laureate has written works that feature gays, lesbians, bisexuals and transvestites in works like La nuit des princes charmants (where a young man discovers his sexuality over one wintery night in Montréal), and his theatrical drag laments Hosanna and La duchessse de Langeais. His work has just as often been the basis for TV and film. Throughout his oeuvre, Montréal is the symbolic character that emerges
Les belles-soeurs, musical version (2011)
first and foremost. Les chroniques du Plateau Mont-Royal is a six-novel series that begins with the acclaimed La Grosse Femme à côté est enceinte (The Fat Woman Next Door is Pregnant) and continues with five other titles that remain one of his greatest achievements. An openly gay writer, Tremblay depicts the city’s homo world with similar prowess in his other 5-novel series Le Gai Savoir (La Nuit des princes charmants, Quarante-quatre minutes, quarante-quatre secondes, Le Coeur découvert, Le Coeur éclaté, Hôtel Bristol New York, N.Y). Michael Tremblay’s works, which include over thirty novels, plays, and musicals, have been translated into over 25 languages. His first major work, Les Belles Soeurs, is the most frequently staged Québécois drama
in the world. René-Richard Cyr’s musical adaptation, hot off its success in Paris last spring, will take the stage at the Monument-National Sept. 20-29 before continuing with Québecwide tour. While his literary works have been rewarded with countless prizes throughout his career, Michel Tremblay’s distinction by Québec’s then Minister of Justice, Kathleen Weil, and the Fondation Émergence notably won him the Lutte contre l’homophobie prize in 2010. As you traipse through Montréal’s downtown, along the Main, and on the Plateau Mont-Royal and in the Village, you’ll be retracing the steps of many of Tremblay’s characters.
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Montréal
Montréal, Here I Come!
T
he past forty years have seen an amazing progression of Montréal’s gay and lesbian community, from the closet to its current status as major international gay hot-spot, from its early “outing” in the works of Michel Tremblay, to the Gay Village which has become renowned the world over as a major gay scene, to the huge circuit events like Black & Blue and Divers/Cité, which have put 24 l GQ
Montréal on the map for some twenty years, and, most recently, the 2006 World OutGames, which solidified Montréal’s place on the short list of the world’s major gay destinations. This tremendous openness to sexual diversity is something that is not new to this urban centre, whose 3.5 million inhabitants share a history of cultural diversity.
TIME STANDS STILL AT CLOCK TOWER BEACH
BEAuTIfuL SANDy BEACH juST STEpS AWAy fROM DOWNTOWN
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Montréal Musée Pointe-à-Callière ©waynetaylor
Montréal,
F
Québec’s Metropolis
ounded in 1642 as a frontier post of New France, in the middle of First Nations territory of the upper St. Lawrence valley, the young colony learned early on how to live in peace with its surrounding neighbours, signing the treaty known as the Great Peace of Montréal with 39 First Nations, in 1701. Conquered by British-American troops in 1760, during the Seven Years War, which pitted the great European powers against each other, it has ever since been a place where different cultural and linguistic communities have mingled, in spite of their apparent “solitudes”. In the 20th century, waves of immigrants from the four corners of 26 l GQ
the world started to shake up the old French-English, East-West division of the city on boul. St-Laurent, adding a wide variety of cultures to the mix. With its many major Jewish, Italian, Haitian, Latin-American and Middle-Eastern communities, Montréal has become a multicultural metropolis. The world’s second largest French-speaking city after Paris, Montréal is home to a variety of accents of the Frenchspeaking countries, spoken by its majority bilingual inhabitants, many of whom are trilingual (Spanish, after English, is Montréalers’ 3rd most commonly spoken language). The minority English-speaking community of Montréal is also very diverse in origins and accents and has
Montréal The Magic of Lanterns, Montréal Botanical Garden © Montréal Botanical Garden, Michel Tremblay
As Canada’s foremost francophone city, and a major university hub, Montréal’s outstanding cultural scene and major festivals make it a year-round tourist attraction. These outstanding festivals are an awesome way to experience the heart and the soul of Montréal. For the gay and lesbian community in Québec and other Frenchspeaking Canadians, but also for many English Canadians, Montréal is more and more the foremost centre of gay life not only in Québec, but also in Canada. Like it was for the young girl in Tremblay’s musical Demain matin, Montréal m’attend (“Tomorrow Morning, Montréal Awaits Me”), so many young gays
and lesbians leave their small towns to start new lives in Montréal. In such a diverse community, no one is ever really “foreign”: diversity, whether sexual, ethnic, linguistic, or of cultural/national origin, is the rule rather than the exception.
Le quartier des spectacles © Victor Diaz Lamich
colored the Montréal fabric.This effervescent mélange is what gives Montréal its European flair and North American reality. Differences of sexual orientation aren’t seen as strange, but rather as just one more kind of socio-cultural difference.
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Rufus Wainwright © César Ochoa
A City open to the world
M
ontréal’s ethnic and cultural diversity is reflected more and more within its GLBT community. Artists from diverse cultures and origins contribute to both Québec and Montréal’s vitality and renowned international reputation for culture. The most well-known gay artist from Québec today is no doubt the singer Rufus Wainwright, son of the late folk singer Kate McGarrigle and of the American singer Loudon Wainwright III. This jewel of the community, who grew up in Montréal and Saint-Sauveur, still keeps a residence in the city. 28 l GQ
But no one has exposed Montréal’s ethnic and cultural diversity as much as film director Steve Galluccio. In his first film, the 2003 English-language comedy Mambo Italiano, this son of Italian immigrants recounts the difficulty of being gay in Montréal’s Italian community. In 2010, his film Funkytown explored the world of Montréal’s downtown discothèques in the 1970s, a time when gay night clubs were establishing themselves in the centre of the city. The dialogue in the film, which switches back and forth from French to English, demon-
strates the unique bilingualism of this part of the city.
has performed numerous times at the Divers/Cité festival.
Other artists have come from the four corners of the earth to enrich Québec and Montréal culture. Among them, José Navas is perhaps the most well-known internationally. Born in Venezuela in 1965, José Navas has been based in Québec since 1991. After having earned a reputation as a talented and charismatic solo contemporary dancer, he began to create group pieces as an independent choreographer and became artistic director of the dance company Flak. His artistic creations focus on the essence and the purity of movement. In 2000, he was voted one of the 100 personalities that put Québec on the map. José Navas is very active and involved in his community and
In a category of his own, the photographer and performance artist 2Fik has used his personal experience as a two-time immigrant to fiercely question identity. Born in Morocco, this multidisciplinary artist describes himself as an artist without a state, who is implicated in three cultures: Canadian, French and Moroccan. This is the starting point for his creative process of self-questioning and self-determination as he moves through different communities that identify themselves through ethnicity, language, and sexual orientation. He defines his photography as a sort of soap opera where his characters (all of which are played by himself) meet and evolve.
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Greater MontrĂŠal and surrounding areas
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Montréal Métro
Hôtel Le Prestige 12555 Sherbrooke Est, Montréal, H1B 1C8
1.877.918.5500 / 514.640.5500 www.hotelleprestige.com
Tucked beside Montréal’s easternmost Parc-Nature de la Pointe-aux-Prairies and next to the Gold Club, this elegant and comfortable hotel has 72 rooms and suites with a/c, free Wifi, continental breakfast incl. Gym and pool.
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Montréal
Montréal’s Old Port
IGLOOFEST Montréal © tourisme-Montréal.org
Sexy, Charming & Historic!
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Canada’s biggest city; it became known from early on as an open city, the centre of gay life in Quebec.
By the middle of the 19th century, the existence of gay meeting places in the Old Port becomes more apparent, according to the Québec Gay Archives. When the sun sets over the poplar-lined Champs de Mars, you can almost imagine men leaning against them, waiting to see who’s up for a roll in the hay. As a seaport, and then as party central during the American Prohibition years, Montréal was
Not far from downtown, with its extensive backdrop of colonial history, the Old Port has become a favourite neighbourhood for Montréal’s gays and lesbians. According to a survey conducted ten years ago, the Old Port boasts the second largest percentage of gay and bisexual-identified inhabitants in Montréal... after the Village. One such inhabitant is Jean-Pierre Pérusse, an actor and artistic director who has worked on many major events in the gay community, from the Black & Blue to pride festivities.
ays and lesbians have had a presence in Montréal since colonial times. Even under French rule, there is archival evidence of people being tried and punished for “buggery”, which was the term used at the time to describe sex between men.
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Montréal This heavily tourist-centred area is one of very few examples of pre20th century urban architecture in North America that is still relatively well preserved. Everyone will enjoy the narrow cobblestone streets, steeped in history, where it’s easy to see why scenes for films set in Europe can easily be shot. For a deeper look at the city’s past, take a tour of the Musée de la Pointe-àCallière (archaeology and history) or the Château de Ramezay. For anyone wanting to experience the city’s tremenous historical range, there is a large variety of accommodations in the neighbourhood: you won’t want to miss the Maison Pierre-du-Calvet, built in 1770, which is still in use as an inn and restaurant.
Galerie MX on rue Viger regularly shows new work by Zïlon, a fixture of Montréal’s gay visual art scene. For going out, there’s the UN on rue Notre-Dame, a must for dance music enthusiasts. Summertime gets a little wild on the Terrasses Bonsecours, which is known for their very gay-friendly Sunday afternoon outdoor dance events. From the Old Port, take a short bike ride or walk along the Pont de la Concorde – or ferry ride with “Navettes Maritimes” - to get to île Sainte-Hélène, where techno and house music takes over part of Parc Jean-Drapeau for the Piknic Electronik Sunday afternoon raves.
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old Montréal
Accommo d a tio n Auberge Bonaparte 514.844.1448 447, rue Saint-François-Xavier www.bonaparte.com Montréal, H2Y 2T1 One of the jewels of Old Montréal’s hotel scene. This four-star hotel was built in 1886, with rooms furnished in the Louis-Philippe style. The Bonaparte Restaurant serves refined French cuisine.
Casa de Mateo 440 rue Saint-Francois-Xavier, Montréal, H2Y 2T3
514.759.6755 www.casademateo.com
Casa de Mateo, Inn and restaurant, welcomes you warmly in the old port. You will find the tastiest Mexican food in a cozy atmosphere. The Mariacas all weekend adds a charming touch to the decor.
Le Saint-Sulpice, Hôtel boutique 414 rue St-Sulpice, Montréal, H2Y 2V5
1.877.SULPICE / 514.288.1000 www.lesaintsulpice.com
Tucked beside the historic Notre Dame Basilica in the heart of Old Montréal, the Saint Sulpice is a 4-star hotel where you’ll feel all the comforts of a private residence. 108 rooms, many with fireplace, balcony, or patio with garden views.
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Inn
restaurant
438 St-François-Xavier, Montréal, H2Y 2T3 tél.: 514.844.7448 casademateo@sympatico.ca
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old Montréal
restaurants L’Assommoir 112, rue Bernard Ouest, Montréal, H2T 2K1 211, Notre Dame Ouest, Montréal, H2Y 1T4
514.272.0777 www.assommoir.ca info@assommoir.ca
Whether at their Mile End or Old Port location, you’ll enjoy the beautiful lighting, mouth-watering food, and awesome music that make l’Assommoir the place to be. Tapas, ceviches, tartars, and grilled meats are at the top of the menu, along with over 250 cocktails from their fabulous drink menu.
Restaurant Gandhi 230, rue Saint-Paul Ouest Montréal, H2Y 1Z9
514.845.5866 www.restaurantgandhi.com
Come discover the aromas of Indian cuisine in a serene, elegant atmosphere. Traditional music plays while you enjoy a culinary voyage for all the senses.
Restaurant Solmar 111 St-Paul Est, Montréal, H2Y 1G7
514.861.4562 www.solmar-Montréal.com
Located in the heart of Old Montréal in a 200 year-old building, the Solmar was the city’s first Portuguese restaurant (est. 1979). Enjoy the fish, sea food, and excellent port menu in an elegant atmosphere.
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443, RUE SAINT-FRANÇOIS-XAVIER MONTRÉAL (QUÉBEC) H2Y 2T1 Auberge: 514 844-1448 Restaurant: 514 844-4368 www.restaurantbonaparte.com
230, RUE SAINT-PAUL OUEST MONTRÉAL (QUÉBEC) H2Y 1Z9 (514) 845-5866 www.restaurantgandhi.com
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old Montréal
Int eres tin g p l a ce s & activ itie s Amphibus Tour
514.849.5181 www.montreal-amphibus-tour.com
It’s a tour bus that converts into a boat, offering exciting and one-of-a-kind views and guided tours of earth and water on the St Lawrence. You’ll see more of Old Montréal in one hour than you could see in a week on foot. Amphibus tours is definitely a must!
La Maison du Jazz 2060 Aylmer Street Montréal H3A 2E3
514.842.8656 www.houseofjazz.ca
This elegant New-Orleans style Jazz lounge and restaurant is a must-visit for Jazz aficionados. The decor is elaborate and inviting with bronze statues, elaborate chandeliers and live Jazz music. Keep an eye out for the saxophone beer tap!
Musée du Château Ramezay 280 rue Notre-Dame Est, Montréal, H2Y 1C5
514.861.3708
This museum’s exhibits allow you to relive history; explore daily life from the early 18th century to the present day.
Old Port of Montréal On the Saint-Lawrence riverbed in Old Montreal, the Old Port is being progressively renovated to host a wide range of activities. During the summer, locals pack the Old Port for stellar views of the Loto-Quebec fireworks series. Montréal’s gay festival Divers/Cité will be holding events in the Old Port for its 20th edition, from July 30 to August 5.
Palais des congrès de Montréal 201, av. Viger Ouest, Montréal, H2Z 1X7
514.871.3170
Welcomes each year the Bal en Blanc during easter week and The Black & Blue during Thanksgiving weekend.
UN night club CLUB U.N 390, rue Notre-Dame Ouest, Montréal
514.849.1390 www.un1.ca stevbishop@un1.ca
With a sexy underground vibe, peopled by house and dance music lovers of all stripes, this mixed nightclub turns up the heat on weekends and with their Tuesday night drink specials.
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old MontrĂŠal
I n t e r e s tin g p l a c e s & activ ities
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DowntowN © MTOQ
Once Upon a Time IN THE WEST… END
W
hen Michel Tremblay was writing and directing his first scenes featuring gay characters at the beginning of the 1970’s, Montréal’s gay life was still concentrated in the west end of town. It’s fitting that Tremblay’s cross-dressers would emerge from the post-war cabaret world on the Main. Only after the Second World War did a gay scene truly come into its own in the night clubs and bars on the western edge of downtown.
and Bud’s. As with straight bars, these bars were typically street level, and in high-traffic areas. As a result of the skyrocketing rental costs and police repression which culminated in the months leading up to the 1976 Olympics, gay nightlife found itself moving east to a corridor of Sainte-Catherine Street which had been nearly abandoned after the massive expropriation and demolition which occurred in the 1960s in order to construct the CBC tower and the Ville-Marie throughway.
Although not openly gay establishments at the time, a few bars and pubs became well known as gay meeting places, such at the Dominion Tavern and the Peel Pub (at the time). After the decriminalization of homosexuality in 1969, the first gay bars appear on Stanley Street. This would later be remembered as the belle époque of places like Limelight, Le Jardin, Truxx,
The last ten years have seen a near-completion of this eastbound shift in the gay nightlife scene, and the Sauna 456, currently closed for renovations, as well as the historic Cabaret Cléopâtre, home to classic drag and female impersonator shows.
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With its renowned hotels, high-end restaurants and department stores,
DowntowN
At its core, Montréal’s downtown shows its true North American nature, with a blend of French, British, and American influences. In the shadow of the sky-scrapers on René-Lévesque Boulevard, Sainte-Catherine Street has remained for over 100 years Montréal’s major commercial strip, where you can shop (or window shop) at Simons, Ogilvy’s, or Holt Renfrew.
The Canadian Centre for Architecture (CCA) is an internationally renowned locus for research and promotion of architecture in its contemporary and historical forms. Founded in 1979, Bronfman heiress Phyllis Lambert has maintained the centre with constant philanthropic support, and her acclaimed devotion to architecture as a matter of public interest.
Av. McGill College la nuit / Centre-ville © Tourisme Montréal, Stéphan Poulin
major cultural institutions and museums, and of course the summer’s outdoor festivals, the downtown area continues to attract more than its share of gay visitors. All the more so since the Black & Blue, which celebrates its 21st edition this year, and the queer film festival Image+Nation both take place downtown.
Downtown Montréal is where you’ll find the arena of the legendary Canadiens NHL hockey team, as well as the concert venue for all of the biggest stars who come through town, from Madonna to Céline Dion, Kylie Minogue and Lady Gaga: they’re all at the Bell Centre (Bonaventure métro). Further west, the Montréal Museum of Fine Arts (or MBAM) on Sherbrooke Street (métro Guy-Concordia), and the renowned Canadian Centre for Architecture (the CCA, at Lucien l’Allier métro) are two of the city’s most esteemed institutions. Founded in 1860, the Montréal Museum of Fine Arts was one of the first art museums worthy of the name, with a collection that sought to representatively unify visual culture and its history. With a mammoth collection of over 36,000 artefacts, spanning ancient times to the most contemporary works, paintings by great European and New World masters, photography and decorative arts make up a gigantic permanent collection in 3 different buildings.
With its coveted collection of materials and research tools, the CCA is at the forefront of knowledge-sharing, exhibitions, and programmes for the advancement and appreciation of architecture, both in theory and in practice. GQ l 43
DowntowN © Ville de Montréal
Quartier des spectacles
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ust east of downtown, the newly minted Quartier des spectacles entertainment district is the fruit of years of public private cooperation, and now gathers all manner of colourful characters that would have fit right in at Tremblay’s Main. The only vestige of the classic red light district of the 50s-80s is the Café Cléopâtre, which has bravely held out against a giant conglomerate of developers to 44 l GQ
protect the headquarters of female impersonator, transvestite, and drag shows that inspired works like Tremblay’s Hosannah. Slowly divided and conquered by urban development, the Red Light district will soon be a thing of the past. But the fact of the district’s dedication to entertainment continues to right true, even if fewer and fewer of the stages show cabaret or drag
acts. In its current form, the dozen or more concert venues in the area have a combined capacity of some 28,000 seats, the most recent of which is the newly constructed symphony hall (Maison symphonique), built beside the Wilfred-Pelletier hall of the modernist Place des Arts.
La Place des festivals occupies Jeanne-Mance street just west of Place des Arts and becomes the major site of all the big summer festivals in Montréal, including the Francofolies, the Just for Laughs, and, of course, the Festival de Jazz.
Place des Arts and the Quartier des spectacles form an axis that points to the century-old Quartier Latin area, built around one of the main buildings of the university, which is now home to the Grande Bibliothèque du Québec, on Berri street.
The Quartier Latin (Latin Quarter) has all the bustle and life of a city, without the imposing skyscrapers. The storied “Other Montréal” emerges in its streets, with the terrasse-lined cafés of rue St-Denis, or enjoy a succulent hamburger at the delightful La Paryse on Ontario street. GQ l 45
MontrĂŠal Downtown
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Downtown
Accommodation & Restaurants Brisket Montréal, Salon Krausmann 1093, côte du Beaver Hall, Montréal, H2Z 1S5
514 878 3641 www.briskets.ca
Tourists and hockey fans alike flock to this century-old pub, one of Montréal’s oldest, to enjoy the family-friendly atmosphere and famous smoked meat, poutine, or marinated pork knuckle.
Days Inn Montréal 215 boul. René Levesque Est, Montréal, H2X 1N7
514.393.3388 www.daysinnMontréal.ca
An elegant and peaceful retreat in the heart of Montréal. Whether its for business or pleasure, everything there will make your stay in Montréal a memorable one.
Hôtel Fairmont Le Reine Elizabeth 900 boul. René Lévesque O.
Montréal
514.861.3511 1.888.610.7575
www.fairmont.com
One of the most famous and most luxurious Montréal hotels, the Fairmount Queen Elizabeth is located directly above the train station and underground city, with unparalleled vistas of downtown, and of the Mary Queen of the World Cathedral.
Hôtel W 902 rue du Square-Victoria, Montréal, H2Y 2J3
514.395.3100 www.starwoodhotels.com
Home in the city’s historic Banque du Canada building transformed into a rich, modern tapestry, W Montréal is close to picturesque Old Montréal and the city’s worldclass downtown.
Hyatt Regency Montréal
514.982.1234 /514.285.1243
Le Gourmet Burger 1433 B rue Bishop, Montréal, H3G 2E4
514.435.3535 www.legourmetburger.com
1255 Jeanne-Mance, Montréal, H5B 1E5 www.Montréal.hyatt.com The recently renovated Hyatt Regency Montréal is conveniently located in front of the Place des Festivals, which is about as central as you can get. With its 605 rooms, it is an ideal choice, close to nightlife, culture (Museum of Contemporary Art) and shopping.
The mission of Gourmet Burger is to create a perfect burger using the finest ingredients, on a freshly baked bun, using only the freshest vegetables, herbs, mouthwatering sauces. Char-grilled beef, bison, and chicken burgers are the centrepiece for a meal we recommend you try with our sweet potato fries or a gourmet poutine.
Le Meridien Versailles 514.933.8111 1808 rue Sherbrooke Ouest, Montréal, www.lemeridienversaillesMontréal.com H3H 1E5 The Château Versailles seemlessly embodies comfort and sophistication at every turn. Conveniently located in Montréal’s Golden Square Mile, the city’s best boutiques and restaurants, and most exciting attractions.
Resto-Bar Micro Brasserie Le Brasseur de Montréal 1483 Ottawa Montréal, H3C 1S9
514.788.4505 www.brasseursdeMontréal.ca
This micro-brewery stands out for its delicious beer, affordable comfort food menu, relaxed atmosphere and hip outdoor patio. 48 l GQ
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Downtown
Accommodation & Restaurants Restaurant Le Taj 2077 rue Stanley, Montréal, QC. H3A 1R7
514.845.9015 www.restaurantletaj.com
For all those who have never tried indian cuisine and for its connoisseurs.
Restaurant SU 5145, rue Wellington Verdun, H4G 1Y2
514.362.1818 reservation@restaurantsu.com www.restaurantsu.com
Let chef Fisun Ercan take you on a culinary voyage of the Mediterranean: along with the traditional mezze appetizers, enjoy the warm ambiance and refined flavours of Turkish cuisine.
Zero 1 Hotel 01 Boul. René-Lévesque. Est, Montréal, QC. H2X 3Z5
514.871.9606 1.855.301.0001 www.zero1-mtl.com
At the heart of Montréal’s Quartier des spectacles district, in an inspiring, modern, urban environment, ZERO 1 reinvents with casual chic the concept of the downtown hotel reflected in the design and comfort of its 164 rooms and suites.
Downtown
S e r v ic e s La Capoterie 2061 rue Saint-Denis, Montréal, H2X 3K8
514.845.0027 www.lacapoterie.net
Perfect place for gifts, the sex-shop La Capoterie offers a wide selection of condoms, including the best-selling Japanese condoms!
Guilde canadienne des métiers d’art 514.849.6091/1.866.477.6091 guildecanadiennedesmetiersdart.com 1460-B Sherbrooke Street West Montréal, H3G 1K4 More than a showcase for Canadian Art, this Guild strives to promote artisans as well as Inuit and First Nations art. With a collection of over 1000 works, the Guild also hosts exhibitions of well-known and up-and-coming artists and artisans.
A unique boutique hotel with 100 of experience
Enjoy the welcoming atmosphere, historic cachet and fine arts ambiance Enjoy the welcoming atmosphere, historic cachet and fine arts ambiance
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Downtown I n t e r e s ti n g p l a c e s & a cti v iti e s Biennale Internationale Art Numérique
514.524.0208 www.bianmontreal.ca In its inaugural year, this festival of digital and multimedia art will become a biannual event, with gallery exhibits and special events taking place throughout Montréal (to June 13). Various locations. Festival Juste pour Rire
1.888.244.3155 www.hahaha.com To celebrate its 30th anniversary, this bilingual comedy festival presents a whopping 8 gala nights July 12-23. A profusion of stand-up comedy, special events, and more will have you keeling over with laughter. Musée d’Art Contemporain 514.847.6226 de Montréal www.macm.org 185 rue Sainte-Catherine West, Montréal, H2X 2J1 Québec foremost centre for contemporary art shows off its extensive Abstraction exhibit until 2016, with this summer’s temporary exhibit Zoo (May 24 – Sept 3), about how we see animals and nature in today’s world. Musée des Beaux-Arts 514.285.2000 1380 rue Sherbrooke West, Montréal, www.mbam.qc.ca H2G 1J5 The foremost art museum in Montréal, now spread out over 3 buildings, hosts travelling exhibitions and a magnificent pernanent collection. The sensuality of paintings by Tom Wesselmann on display in Beyond Pop until Oct 7. Place des Arts. 514.842.2112 175 rue Sainte-Catherine West, www.laplacedesarts.com Montréal, H2X 1Z8 A public institution serving the entire population, the Société Place des Arts is dedicated to making performing arts available to a wide audience. Bell Centre 514.932.2582 1909 av. des Canadiens-de-Montréal, www.centrebell.ca H3B 2S2 A sports and cultural complex that is also a place to do business, not to mention the home of the NHL’s Canadiens hockey team. The Canadian Centre for Architecture 514.939.7000 1920 rue Baile, Montréal, H3H 1P6 www.cca.qc.ca Based on its extensive Collection, exhibitions, programs, and research opportunities, the CCA is a leading voice in advancing knowledge, promoting public understanding, and widening thought and debate on architecture Métropolis 514.844.3500 59 rue Sainte-Catherine East, Montréal, www.metropolismontreal.ca H2X 1K5 This enormous music venue has played host to some of the most outstanding international performers. Upcoming concerts include Janelle Monáe (June 27) and Beirut (July 16 & 17).
Théâtre du Nouveau Monde 84 rue Sainte-Catherine Ouest, Montréal, H2X 1Z6
514.866.8668 www.tnm.qc.ca
The TNM is arguably the foremost French language theatre in Montréal, with a stunning 2012-2013 programme including works by Marguerite Duras, Molière, and Québec playwright laureate Michel Marc Bouchard.
Ziggy Ziggy, I call him Ziggy I’m so hot for him He’s not at all like all the rest But he’s held out and he’s the best Even if I know He would never go with me Ziggy, they call him Ziggy I’m so hot for him And when I saw him that first day I went and gave myself away Oh so indiscreet Oh but he was sweet to me Four a.m. he’s here by my side Talking, laughing and making friends Making fun of me too He can do whatever he wants I don’t mind, but he pretends Not to see what I got through
Why won’t he try anything new ? I would be his very best And his first, in many ways Oh if I were one of his boys Thin and languid and self-possessed So in demand nowadays Ziggy, my crazy Ziggy I get weak for him He lives a life that I can’t share I don’t know why but I know where Oh it breaks my heart Knowing I’m not part of him 54 l GQ
© www.classicstodayfrance.com
Ziggy, my crazy Ziggy I get weak for him He lives a life that I can’t share I don’t know why but I know where Oh it breaks my heart Knowing I’m not part of him
The Village
THE VILLAGE 30 years of diversity
B
efore becoming the hub of Montréal’s gay life – the Village is Canada’s largest – the part of the city it now occupies was a notable cultural destination: it was here that the Ouimetoscope, Canada’s first movie theatre, was built in 1906. The area fell to the wayside in the mid-20th century, only coming back to life gradually since the mid-1970s with new businesses catering to a gay clientele: the Priape sex shop, continuously operated since 1974, and the Boîte en Haut, the gay bar that opened in 1975 where the Complexe Sky now stands. Little by little, the gay community migrated east of Saint-Laurent Boulevard in the Eighties. In 1982, three new gay establishments opened their doors: the 1681, Les 2R, and Max. Dubbed “Le Nouveau Village
de l’Est”, inspired after New York’s East Village, the area would soon be known simply as Le Village. Even more diverse now than ever, the Village celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. For six years already, the summer-long Aires Libres event has become a fixture for Montréalers and tourists alike to enjoy outdoor patios (terrasses) and the pedestrianization of SteCatherine Street (May 14-Sept 6 this year). The uniqueness of the Gay Village has been maintained over the decades of transformation. Hence the old Station C post office, where the famously homo-inclusive Starmania musical premièred in 1980, has now been converted into the Apollon Nightclub: the place remains “très, très gai.” GQ l 55
The Village
The Village
© César Ochoa
M
ontréal’s Gay Village is replete with stories like that of the young girl in Michel Tremblay’s famous musical comedy Demain matin, Montréal m’attend, where the character dreams of being “surrounded by furs and fags.” Although the fashions have changed, droves of young men and women from smaller towns move to Montréal in order to openly live their homosexuality, an influx that never ceases to invigorate gay city life, and in turn, develop the Village itself. Like many of the actual villages these young people come from, the gay Village has a lot of the same 56 l GQ
friendly, welcoming vibe. While many GLBT people eventually meet in bars or through the cultural scene, it’s no surprise that their current stomping ground along Sainte-Catherine East is where the Village sprouted up: the street has long been known for its nightlife and cultural venues, and has been the location of various media outlets since the early 1970s. Today, the Village a vibrant urban attraction, particularly in the summer when the Sainte-Catherine street axis becomes a pedestrian street to allow crowds to enjoy major GLBT events like Pride and Divers/cité, as well as the FIMA
The Village
Bal en Blanc 2012 © Carolina Ramirez
and Fetish Weekend, which happens over Labour Day weekend. All year round, the Village is home to a happening nightlife and a wide spectrum of atmosphere and locales. The Village that Never Sleeps With its 25-some bars, pubs, dance and nightclubs, the Village is Québec’s foremost gay nightlife mecca. Some of these establishments are legendary institutions, like the Sky Complex, with its pub, nightclub, and roof-top terrasse (with wading pool), has been a must for over 18 years. The complex is in the same building as the former Boîte En-Haut, the first gay bar to open in the Village, which
makes it the oldest continuously operated gay hang-out for over 35 years. Apollon (from the same owners as Parking), with their Katacombes bar downstairs, and Unity are the two most popular nightclubs. Downstairs from Unity you’ll find the famous Bar Stock, with its muscled manly dancers. The leather and denim crowd call l’Aigle Noir or the STUD their second home, while girls who like girls flock to the Drugstore, a more mixed venue. For a drink between friends in a more chill vibe, the Gotha Lounge on Amherst street has a loyal clientele. GQ l 57
The village
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Mado Lamotte © César Ochoa
The Village
The area also has plenty of places that keep up Montréal’s reputation as an open-minded city, with its saunas, male strip bars, and of course, cruising grounds. Dotted with dozens of hotels, B&Bs, inns, and restaurants, you can really take advantage of what it has to
offer 24/7. With almost 100 cafés and restaurants, visitors will have no trouble finding the atmosphere that suits their taste. You can make a culinary world trip in the area’s eateries, and as far as shopping is concerned, the Village has the gay male basics totally covered.
BBV est recommandé par TripAdisor | BBV is recommended on TripAdvisor
info@bbv.qc.ca | www.bbv.qc.ca | +1-888-228-8455 60 l GQ
SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY SUPPERS STARTING AT $1*
AU MENU
Discover NÜVÜ Bistro-Experiences’ culinary experience in a unique decor created by Moment Factory MIXED CAESAR $1 PASTA OF THE DAY $2 ARIANNE BURGER or NÜVÜ BURGER $3 BEEF TARTAR or SALMON TARTAR $4 BEEF FLANK or SALMON FILLET $5 DUO OF TARTARS $6 CORNISH CHICKEN $7
Reservation: 514.940.6888
www.bistronuvu.com *Promotion details on site.
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the Village The Palm of zilon ‘ s HAND , © André Rider . ZÏLON
A SHOWCASE of Gay Culture
T
he Village is also the place where much of gay visual art has emerged in recent years, characterized by an emphasis on the male body and homoeroticism. Zïlon is one of the city’s iconic urban artists, whose mural art of 62 l GQ
androgynous faces done in graffiti style fill the empty walls of the city. You could recently enjoy his work for a while longer on a building façade at Sainte-Catherine and Montcalm.
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the Village
© Document remis
Yvon Goulet is a fixture of the village art scene, with his striking paintings done on recycled political placards, featuring erotic and Village scenes.
Besides his male nudes, painter Jean Chainey depicts urban landscapes with architectural and surrealist elements. Joël Provost is a sculptor of the male form as well as a teacher at La Loggia Art & Breakfast (co-owner of La Loggia Art & Breakfast), welcomes you in his Atelier de sculpture du Village on De Maisonneuve Boulevard. 64 l GQ
Amherst street is known for its cluster of vintage furniture stores and art galleries. Galerie Dentaire (see p. 77) and Galerie Zéphyr Lieu d’art are known for exhibiting works by gay artists..
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the Village
Blanc Mémoire_ JosephJeanGilles ©Marc-André Goulet
History, Culture and Heritage on Amherst Street If you want to explore the rich history and heritage of the Village’s underground culture, you simple must explore Amherst street, the North-South artery that connects the Village to Parc Lafontaine. Galleries, antique dealers, and aestheticians (that classic gay métier) are clustered along a street that has become an artery for the neighbour’s quality of life. To discover the area’s industrial past and place in 19th Canadian history, you can’t miss visiting the Écomusée du fier monde, dedicated to this pivotal period in the city’s history. For the pedestrianization of Sainte-Catherine Street, large panels showing the 250-year history of the area have been installed throughout the Village. Places of Interest Vestiges of Montréal’s burlesque and nightlife heyday are 66 l GQ
to be found along Sainte-Catherine Est, including the Théâtre National, which was founded in 1900 and is still in use. Alys Robi, Rose Ouellette, and the stars of yesteryear have given way to indie bands and music acts from around the world that stop here for Pop Montréal and other events. Next door to the National is the even more historic Ouimétoscope, Montréal’s first cinema, which was in operation until the 1980s. By the by, it was when the National was temporary renamed the Cinéma du Village that the neighbourhood got its nick name “the Village”, in imitation of New York’s West Village. Across from the National, the Beaudry Métro station was the first public building in the world to be branded with the colours of the rainbow flag. The station’s unusual inclined tunnel escalator ramp has been featured in numerous photo shoots, films, and Michel Tremblay’s Laura Cadieux.
the Village St-Timothée Amherst
Far more than a mere commercial strip, the Village is a district where the gay and lesbian community shows its true colours. If you want to see what living in the area is like, stroll along the adorable rue Sainte-Rose between de la Visitation and Papineau streets, where horse-and-carriage-era town houses and gateways show off some architectural charm. Take a detour to the Saint-PierreApôtre Church and adjacent conference centre, formerly the heart of what was known as the Faubourg Québec. Take a walk down Dalcourt and Lartigue alleys, or
amble down Logan or Lafontaine streets, where mansard roofs and heritage trees add a special antique look to the charming street life. Just south of the Village, along the St. Lawrence Seaway, you can visit the Maison du Gouverneur, which was formerly the Pieddu-courant Jailhouse (est. 1836) where the rebels of Papineau’s Patriotes were hanged in 1837-38, and the gigantic Molson Brewery (founded in 1786), all of which are testaments to the rich history of the Faubourg Québec. GQ l 67
the Village things to do & points of interest Aires Libres 514.529.1168 Rue Sainte-Catherine Est www.aireslibres.com Montréal, H2L 2H5 From May 14 to Sept 6, the stretch of Ste Catherine between St-Hubert and Papineau becomes a giant outdoor patio and pedestrian mall – The Aires Libres becomes one of the most anticipated cultural events of the year. Apollon / Katakombes www.apollonmtl.com 1450, rue Sainte-Catherine Est www.katakombes.com Montréal, H2L 2H8 The place where the gods of nightlife (and those who worship them) go to play. Écomusée du fier monde 514.528.8444 2050 rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3L9 Located in a former public bath in the Village, the charming Écomusée du fier monde invites you to discover some of Montréal’s industrial and working class history. Galerie Dentaire 514.523.5535 1239 rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3K9 www.galeriedentaire.com The Galérie Dentaire is a dentist office with an artsy twist. This office doubles as an art gallery, showcasing primarily gay art. Galerie Zéphyr 514.529.9199 2112 rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3L8 www.galeriezephyr2112.com An independent contemporary art gallery showing artists from all over. In may and june, Zachari Logan and Tatsu. Théâtre Prospero 514.526.6582 1371 rue Ontario Est, Montréal, H2L 1S2 This French language theatre is one of the many stages for the Festival Transamériques Usine C 514.521.4198 1345 av. Lalonde, Montréal, H2L 4N6 Interdisciplinary performing arts space for original and touring productions by artists from around the world. One of the stages for the Festival Transamériques.
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Accommodation Admiral’s Inn Resort 87, Main Street, Ogunquit, ME 03907
1.207.646.7093 www.theadmiralsinn.com
With three different types of accommodation, and walking distance from both the town and the beach, enjoy the renovated rooms in the historic inn, or the deluxe rooms and suites in the hotel section. Spa and wellness centre on site.
Gîte B&B Le Cartier 1219 rue Cartier, Montréal,H2K 4C4
514.917.1829 / 1.877.524.0495 www.bblecartier.com
Only steps away from Papineau métro in the Gay Village and adjacent to downtown, you’ll feel right at home in this B&B. Tucked beside the Jacques-Cartier Bridge, it’s the perfect place for a successful get-away.
Bed & Breakfast du Village 1279 Montcalm Street Montréal, H2L 3G6
514.522.4771 / 1.888.228.8455 www.bbv.qc.ca
Philippe and Nicolas will offer you gracious hospitality in their warm and welcoming Bed & Breakfast. Their very comfortable rooms were renovated just last year. Among other features, this B&B has a lovely dining room, a large terrace and indoor parking.
B&B Le Chasseur 1567 Saint-André Street Montréal, H2L 3T5
514.521.2238 / 1.800.451.2238 www.lechasseur.com
This one-hundred year old house with original wood flooring was once the home of students of the Montréal Diocesan Seminary in the 19th century! It was converted into a B&B in 1983. You will find comfort and a warm welcome at Le Chasseur, not to mention their affordable prices.
Hôtel Les Suites Labelle 1205 Labelle, Montréal, H2L 4C1
514.840.1151 www.hotellabelle.com
The hotel Les Suites Labelle has become a reference in affordable lodging, ideally located in the heart of Montréal downtown’s cultural district, perfect for leisure as well as business travellers.
Complexe Bourbon 1578 rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2H9
514.523.4679 www.clubhotelMontréal.com
The Club Hotel is the place to be. For eating, drinking, going out, relaxing, everything is possible at the Club Hotel. The hotel, restaurants, bars, patios and atmosphere await you for unforgettable moments.
Gîte touristique Maison des Jardins 1365 rue Logan, Montréal, H2L 1X4
514.598.7359 / 1.800.975.1365 www.maison-desjardins.ca
Luc and Robert are your hosts at this adorable B&B and outdoor spa, all year round. You’ll appreciate the generous breakfasts and professional massage therapists on site. Calm, tranquility and 10 years of experience,
Hotel Stay Centre Ville 910 boul. Maisonneuve Est,Montréal, H2L 1Z1
514.303.7584 www.hotelstaycentreville.ca
This modern, urban renovated hotel in the Gay Village has 14 clean en suite rooms, flat 32” TV, breakfast, and free Wi-Fi. Near Metro Berri-Uqam, and the main bus station. 70 l GQ
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the Village Accommodation La Loggia Art & Breakfast 1637 rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3L4
514.524.2493 / 1.866.520.2493 www.laloggia.ca
This unique space is more than just a Bed & Breakfast, it is also a sort of art gallery. Elegantly furnished, this very confortable Bed & Breakfast also features works by Canadian artists. Joël & Rob welcome you with warmth and will serve you a breakfast that is as healthy as it is generous!
Hôtel Félix 1274 rue Ste-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2H2
514.525.2424 / 1.888.525.2426 info@hotelfelixMontréal.com www.hotelfelixMontréal.com
The Hôtel Félix was born out of a simple idea between two friends: open a hotel in the heart of the Village, but make it, calm, elegant, comfortable, and also affordable. Come spend a night in one of their 14 rooms, relax on their terrace, or read a book in their lounge.
Studio Living 1831 Montcalm Street Montréal H2L 1R4
514.249.8099 www.gitescanada.com/10090.html
Welcomed by your friendly host Michel, you will stay in one of the three intimate studios that open onto a private garden. A copious breakfast awaits you before you set off to discover the city.
the Village
Restaurants Bistro Nüvü 1336, rue Sainte-Catherine Est Montréal, H2L 2H5
www.bistronuvu.com
Come enjoy the bistro experience for the see-and-be-seen. Its ultra-modern lighting system, and interior design by architect Humà make every night special. Tuesday is their FOODCLUB gay night with $1 menu items.
Boulangerie La Mie Matinale 1371 rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2H7
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514.529.5656
We OFFER You To... Toast...
Feast...
... And Enjoy Life!
In The Heart Of The
VILLAGE
Sun to Thu: 11:00 am to 11:30 pm
Fri to Sat:
11:00 am to 00:30 pm
1495,
Catherine St. East, corner Alexandre-de-Seve, 514.596.3933
Ste
the Village
Restaurants French bakery, pastry shop & café and a unique European atmosphere where you are welcomed by the owners Régis & Didier. Homemade and daily fresh pastries, breads and croissants. This café is a shrine to late gay icon and French singer Dalida.
Java-U du Village 1259 Saint-Catherine Est / Metro Beaudry
514.303.8544 / www.javauvillage.com
Offer your self a Delightful – Breakfast , Mon To Fri, 6:30-am / 11:30 am & Weekends- 6:30 am / 3:00 pm. Or Enjoy our gourmet sandwiches & Personalized Salad’s made Fresh & the way you want it ! Have A- fresh coffee or a Cool beverage on two great terrasses . Java U is your gourmet cafeteria all year long. Visit us to get a first hand Experience.
La Piazzetta 1101 rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2G5
514.526.2244 www.lapiazzetta.ca
Square pizzas thin crust of the nice restaurant chain Piazzetta knew how to make tip over the heart of the Quebeckers. Nice atmosphere and colored menu.
Le Planète Inc 1451 rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2H9
514.528.6953
Established in 1994, Le Planète is as aptly namedas ever. The dishes emerging from its kitchen are still bursting with culinary tastes inspired by the four corners of the globe, reflecting Mother Earth’s most excellent bounty.
Papas Martinis Tapas
514 526.8787 / 514.544.1321 www.papastapas.ca 1654 rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal 3547 boulevard Saint-Laurent Chef Alexandre Fernandez is a breath of fresh air with his hip menu! Don`t forget to savour his delectable Portuguese Tapas, accompanied by a cocktail martini. This restaurant/lounge, with rustic exposed brick walls and elegant decor, also doubles as a wine bar.
Pourquoi Pas Espresso Bar
514.419.9400
1447 Amherst Street, Montréal, H2L 2G2 The mission of our friendly baristas Tyler (the Canadian) and Tony (the Parisian): to open your mind and palette to the art of direct trade coffee, served from their impressive Italian espresso machine. Local artists also expose their work in this independent café.
Restaurant Be Bap
514.524.7878
Rôtisserie Saint-Hubert
514.286.9661
1429, rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3L2 www.restaurantbebap.com One of several Asian restaurants in the area, this new family-run establishment specializes in warm, flavourful Korean cuisine (try the bibimbap), with modern décor. 1019 Sainte-Catherine Street East www.st-hubert.com Montréal, H2L 2G4 The quintessential Québec rotisserie chicken chain St-Hubert also has a restaurant in the Village! Come with friends or family to taste their famous rotisserie chicken.
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PIZZA GERMANICA
A THIN-CRUST PIZZA FOR DISCERNING TASTES!
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the Village S e r v ic e s
Barbier Mohawk 1305 av. Papineau, Montréal, H2K 4H3
514.524.7582
This scruffy barber shop is located just beside LeStud, Montreal’s bear nightclub and bar. Owner Jean-Marc specializes in haircuts inspired by New Wave music.
Boutique OSEZ 1320 rue Wolfe, Montréal, H2L 3J3
514.521.2004 www.boutiqueosez.com
This boutique located in the heart of the Village has been attracting fashionable men with its designer clothing and sexy underwear since 2000.
Mariage à Votre Image Rév. Johanne Bérubé
514.493.6596 / 418.875.1059 www.mariageavotreimage.com
Working as a registered pastor for over 15 years with Québec’s Ministère de la famille, Johanne Bérubé is certified to perform civil unions, weddings, engagements, baptisms and funerals. She’ll provide a legal ceremony tailored to your needs (interdenominational).
Masso 1452
514.654.1070 www.masso1452.com
Robert, a professional masseur, provides different types of massages to ease body pains, stimulate bloodstream, etc.
Massage Apsara 1333, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, local 301 Montréal H2L 2H4
514 528-9920 admin@apsaramassage.com www.apsaramassage.com
In a relaxing, zen atmosphere, the handsome masseurs at Apsara offer Thai, Swedish, and Deep-Tissue massage, for relaxation or to soothe muscle pain.
Physotech Spa concept 1475, rue Amherst, Montréal H2L 3L2
514.527.7587 www.physotech.com
An urban spa recently refitted in new premises located in the middle of the Gay Village. All the services for over 25 years!
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How do we do luxury? Let us count the ways.
Wherever your spirit takes you in Quebec, whatever time of year, we have the ultimate overnight address. Four in fact. Each has a signature style but all provide you with great creature comforts, fabulous dining and service that can only be called exceptional.
For reservations or information, call 1 800 441 1414 or visit www.fairmont.com
Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu
Fairmont Le Ch창teau Frontenac
Fairmont Le Ch창teau Montebello
Fairmont The Queen Elizabeth GQ l 79
The Village Bars Apollon / Katacombes
www.apollonmtl.com
1450 Ste-Catherine Est, Montréal H2L 2H8
Bar Aigle Noir
514.529.0040
1315, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2H4
Bar le Cocktail
514.597.0814
1669, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2J5
Bar Stock & Lounge
514.842.1336
1171, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2G8
Bar Taboo
514.597.0010
1950, boul. De Maisonneuve Est, Montréal, H2K 2C8
Cabaret Mado
514.525.7566
1115, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2G6
Campus
514.526.9867
1111, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2G6
Circus
514.844.3626
439 St Andre, Montréal, H2L 3T4
Citibar
514.525.4251
1603, rue Ontario Est, Montréal, H2L 1S6
Club Date
514.521.1242
1218, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2G9
Gotha 1641, rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3L4
514.526.1270
La Relaxe
514.523.0578
1309, rue Sainte-Catherine Est Montréal, H2L 2H4
Le Drugstore
514.524.1960
1366, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2H6
SKY Pub & Club 1474, rue Sainte-Catherine Est Montréal, H2L 2J1
Stereo 858, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2E3
Stud 1812, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2K 2H3
Taverne Normandie
514.529.6969 www.complexesky.com 514.286.0325 www.stereo-nightclub.com 514.598.8243 www.studbar.com 514.522.2766
1295, rue Amherst, Montréal, H2L 3K9
Taverne Rocky
514.521.7865
1673, rue Sainte-Catherine Est, Montréal, H2L 2J5
Unity 1400, rue Montcalm, Montréal, H2L 3G6 80 l GQ
514.523.4429 www.clubunityMontréal.com
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the Plateau Mont-Royal Terrasse de la rue Saint-Denis © Tourisme Montréal, Stéphan Poulin
the Plateau Mont-Royal
T
he Plateau Mont-Royal has changed significantly since Michel Tremblay wrote his gritty Chroniques du Plateau stories thirty years ago. This formerly work-class area has become a very trendy neighbourhood, counting amongst its inhabitants the largest concentration of artists in Canada. 82 l GQ
Densely populated, but on a human scale, the Plateau has many elements that are typical of early 20th-century urban areas; it is known for its 3-story buildings, winding exterior staircases and heritage tree-lined streets. Situated just north-east of the downtown core, at the foot of Mount Royal, edged by Parc Lafontaine to
the Plateau Mont-Royal Design by Québec’s Philippe Dubuc © Yann Ostiguy
the east, it is a very urban area where you can do your shopping on foot and enjoy innumerable little bars and cafés, such as rue St-Denis. This is the ever-chic neighbourhood where Philippe Dubuc has his flagship bou-
tique. Furthermore, it is the gathering place for young people and intellectuals by virtue of its being the location of the best life music shows, theatres and performance venues. GQ l 83
the Plateau Mont-Royal
Royal Phoenix Document remis
Where gays & lesbians meet
B
efore the gay community migrated to the Village and the Plateau became the trendy place it is now, the lesbian community would rally in the many lesbian bars on rue Saint-Denis, to the extent that the ladies christened it rue “SainteDenise”! You could find feminist, gay, and lesbian bookstores, as well as numerous establishments owned and operated by lesbians. The expansion of the Village to include the area just south of Parc Lafontaine meant that gays started to live more and more on the Plateau as well, making this the place where gays and lesbians rub elbows more than anywhere else in the Montréal. Statistically speaking, the Plateau is the borough where the most gays and lesbians actually live. Unlike the Village, the Plateau’s gays 84 l GQ
and lesbians are less flamboyant and blend into their community more seamlessly. Aside from its three saunas, the area has few avowed gay establishments, even if that’s where the most compelling nightlife is located outside the Village. You’ll find a number of bed & breakfasts, cafés, restaurants, and boutiques that are gay-friendly and often owned and operated by gays or lesbians. And if you want to make sure you meet Plateau gays, go for a stroll on the southeast corner of the Parc Lafontaine pond, the neighbourhood’s ultimate “gay beach”. Northwest of the Plateau, the Mile End neighbourhood is an area known for its artistic and alternative queer scene, particularly with lesbians. The Royal Phoenix and Cagibi have become go-to places in the ‘hood.
Cupcakes,
great occasions !
www.petitsgateaux.ca
783 Avenue Mont-Royal Est 514-510-5488
Tasty, delicious, without nuts, our famous cupcakes bring happiness ! GQ l 85
the Plateau Mont-Royal things to do & points of interest
George Stamos © César Ochoa
Agora de la danse
Info : 514 525-1500
840, rue Cherrier, Montréal, H2L 1H6 www.agoradanse.com/en One of the most avant-garde spaces for contemporary dance in Canada, the Agora offers an exciting programme that finishes with the Transamériques (to June 9).
Cinéma Excentris
Info : 514 847-2206
3536, boul. St-Laurent, Montréal, H2X 2T6 An independent cinema showing only “auteur” films of the daring and avant-garde variety. Cinema in its purest form, with a focus on new voices.
Espace GO
Info : 514 845-4890
4890, boul. St-Laurent, Montréal, H2T 1R5 Avant-garde French language theatre often premièring works by out gay playwrights.
Théâtre d’Aujourd’hui
Info : 514 282-3900
3900 rue St-Denis, Montréal H2W 2M2 French language theatre known for premièring works by Québec writers.
Théâtre de Quat’sous
Info : 514 845-7277
100, av. des Pins Est, Montréal, H2W 1N7 This tiny, arty French language theatre was entirely rebuilt in 2011; known for daring contemporary performance works and plays.
Théâtre du Rideau Vert
Info : 514 844-1793
4664, rue St-Denis, Montréal, H2J 1T1 For the 40th anniversary of playwright laureate Antonine Maillet’s La Sagouine, this French language theatre will feature the Acadian classic performed by the original actress (Viola Léger), Oct 18-28, 2012.
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The Plateau Mont-Royal a ccommod a tio n Gîte B&B au Piano Blanc 4440, rue Berri, Montréal, H2J 2R1
514.845.0315
Guesthouse and B & B, in the heart of cultural district Plateau Mont Royal. Discount for 10% for 7 days or more. Delicious breakfast.
Le Magnolia 1125, rue Rachel, Montréal, H2J 2J6
514.524.5818 www.lemagnolia.ca
The Magnolia is a gorgeous victorian B&B facing Lafontaine Park, in Montréal’s renowned Plateau Mont-Royal district.
Gîte B&B Shézelles 4272, rue Berri, Montréal, H2J 2P8
514.849.8694
A magical setting with a charming atmosphere, this B&B has birchwood floors and cedar walls throughout. Offering three large rooms and a splendid suite.
Gîte Ma’am Bolduc
514.527.3884
4351, av. De Lorimier, Montréal, H2H 2B2 www.mambolduc.com Inn and restaurant on the plateau with the best poutine in Montréal. Home-made hamburgers, an eclectic atmosphere, and outdoor patio in the summe
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the Plateau Mont-Royal R estaur a n ts & B a r s
Crêpanita 1576, ave. Mont-Royal Est, Montréal, H2L 1Z2
514.524.5535 www.crepanita.com
Sweet and savoury crêpes, paninis and salads: this is a little café with big flavour. Delivery available.
La Croissanterie Figaro 5200, rue Hutchison, Outremont, H2V 4B3
514.278.6567 www.lacroissanteriefigaro.com
This Outremont croissanterie is infused with the aroma of an out of the way café from 1920s Paris. Come taste the fresh croissants, breakfasts, and table d’hôte menu in the Figaro’s enchanting art-nouveau décor.
Le point G 1266, ave. Mont-Royal Est, Montréal h2J 1Y4
514.750.7515 www.boutiquepointg.com
Waffles, ice cream and so much more await you at Le point G. Winner of the Fourchette d’or (Golden Fork) for the best macaron in Montréal.
Restaurant Kazamaza
514.844.6292
4629, avenue du Parc, Montréal H2V 4E4 www.kazamaza.ca Kazamaza serves colourful and delectable fine Syrian cuisine, including vegetarian, meat and fish mezzés. Often featuring live music. Brunch served on the weekends.
Resto La Banquise 994, rue Rachel Est. Montréal, H2J 2J3
514.525.2415 / 514.525.5996 www.restolanbanquise.com
Since 1968, la Banquise has been the place for poutine in Montréal, with 25 different kinds of poutine and locally brewed beer on tap. With its adorable outdoor patio, you’ll relish the food and atmosphere 24hrs/day!
Poisson Rouge 514.522.4876 1201, rue Rachel Est, Montréal H2J 2J8 www.restaurantlepoissonrouge.ca Fresh fish reigns king in this colourful restaurant facing Parc Lafontaine, though they also serve some delicious meats from Québec. Chef`s menu with five services at affordable prices. Bring your own wine.
Caférico 969, rue Rachel Est, Montréal, H2J 2J4
514.529.1321 www.caferico.qc.ca
Québec’s first 100% fair trade, organic coffee roaster. Stop by to try one of their diverse selection of freshly roasted beans, organic products in bulk, or for lunch, check out the newly opened adjoining eatery Le Petit Rico.
L’Assommoir
514.272.0777
112, rue Bernard Ouest, Montréal, H2T 2K1 www.assommoir.ca info@assommoir.ca 211, Notre Dame Ouest, H2Y 1T4 L’Assomoir is a trendy and welcoming bar with an urban vibe. The menu is a fresh and effervescent selection of ceviches, steaks, tapas, fresh fish, and 250 cocktails. Both Assomoir locations are well located in the Mile End and Old Port.
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the Plateau Mont-Royal R estaur a n ts & B a r s Les Deux Gamins
514.288.3389
170, Prince Arthur Est, Montréal, H2X 3D7 www.lesdeuxgaminsMontréal.com An experience worthy of the streets of Paris. Classic cuisine made with local ingredients in season, complemented by an impressive list of imported wines.
Restaurant Buona Forchetta 2407 Mont-Royal Est , Montréal, QC H2H 1L2
514.521.6766 www.buonaforchetta.ca
This gourmet Italian resto specializes in grilled meats and classic pastas served with a variety of delicious sauces, all cooked with 100% cocoa butter (Mycryo). No frying, no cholesterol, just the pure flavour of the ingredients cooked to perfection.
Restaurant Commensal 1720, rue Saint Denis, Montréal, Qc H2X 3K6
514.845.2627 www.commensal.com
Smack-dab in the middle of the bustling Quartier Latin, this vegetarian resto is the perfect place to grab a healthy lunch on the go. Spread out of 3 floors, enjoy the savoury vegetarian and vegan buffet fare with countless salads and hot dishes.
Au Pied de Cochon 536, avenue Duluth Est, Montréal, H2L 1A9
514.281.1114 www.restaurantaupieddecochon.ca
Chef Martin Picard`s menu is inspired by local Quebec ingredients and traditions. Foie gras (in poutine or in a pie!) and of course pork (of which everything is good).
Royal Phoenix Bar 5788, boul. St-Laurent, Montréal, H2T 1S8
514.658.1622 royalphoenixbar.com
With its Cantine Royale serving pulled pork and other delights from 5pm-1am, they have an irresistible evening line-up catering to queers and lesbians in this bohemian ‘hood.
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the Plateau Mont-Royal S ervices Boutique Philippe Dubuc
514.282.1424
451 Rue Saint-Denis, Montréal, QC H2J 2L1 Designer Philippe Dubuc has been one of the defining fashion references in Montréal since 1993. His flagship boutique on St-Denis features tailored and urban looks with high-end cuts and luxe finishes.
L’Échange 713, avenue du Mont-Royal Est Montréal, H2J 1W7
514.523.6389 www.librairielechange.com
Keep books alive by trading or buying second-hand – browse their extensive selection of quality books (literature, art, coffee-table sized) and CDs
Visit our studio: 4200 St-Laurent Blvd. Suite 415 (4th floor) Montréal, QC H2W 2R2 Montreal Sex Toys Pleasure Parties
Tel: 877.569.8699 info@joytoyz.com
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the Plateau Mont-Royal S ervices Joy Toyz 4200 Boulevard Saint-Laurent, suite 415, Montréal, H2W 2R2
1877 569 8699 www.joytoyz.com
This alternative erotic boutique, open since 2000, is entirely owned and managed by women. On top of toys, lubricants and carefully selected massage oils, the boutique offers workshops to healthily awaken your sexuality.
Garderie Le poil aux pattes 4255 A, rue Frontenac, Montréal, Québec, H2H 2M4
514.659.8541 www.lepoilauxpattes.com
An educative animal daycare with animal health technician on site who offer during the day a large playground and spacious lofts. Hairfur Daycare will simplify your trip for a day, a week or even a month.
Tattoo Box 155 Avenue des Pins Est, Montréal, QC
(514) 759-6806 www.tattooboxMontréal.com
Québeckers have no qualms about tattoos, which makes it one of the best places in North America to get one. If you have always wanted but never dared, now’s the time! Call Yoshi.
Théâtre Outremont 1240, avenue Bernard Outremont, H2V 1V5
514.495.9944 www.theatreoutremont.ca
This historic art-déco theatre and cinema has been a launch pad for Québecois artists for decades. Reopened for live theatre in 2001, the theatre’s programme includes music, comedy, stage productions and films.
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Hochelaga - Maisonneuve
HoMa! Oh my!
Parc olympique / Hochelaga-Maisonneuve © Régie des installations olympiques
L
ocated just east of the Village, the Hochelaga-Maisonneuve (or “HoMa”) neighbourhood is becoming more and more popular for the gay community. A little further away from downtown, this “gaybourhood” resembles the Plateau Mont-Royal, which was built in the same period, with the main difference being that HoMa has stayed closer to its working class roots. The Hochelaga neighbourhood, just east of the Village, is a formerly working class and industrial zone that is undergoing constant metamorphosis. The cute little shops that line Place Valois on Rue Ontario are but one sign of change and renewal. Many gays have chosen to make their home on the west end of Hochelaga, which is by walking distance from the Village. Originally built as a kind of Frenchspeaking Westmount east of what was Montréal at the end of the 19th cen94 l GQ
tury, the Maisonneuve neighbourhood has retained many lovely remnants of this bygone era The grand neoclassical façades of the Morgan and Pie-IX avenues and the utterly charming Marché Maisonneuve, the neighbourhood’s public market, reveal the historic grandeur of the area. Lording over it all is the ornate Château Dufresne on Sherbrooke Street, now an art museum. The Maisonneuve neighbourhood was completely transformed by the construction of the Olympic Stadium for the 1976 Games. Even now, over 30 years later, visitors to the area are still struck by the futuristic Stadium and its sweeping diagonal tower or “mast”, which offers impeccable views from the top. The Biodôme, Botanical Gardens, and the Parc Maisonneuve, located just north of the Parc Olympique, are enjoyed by thousands of visitors each year.
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Hochelaga - Maisonneuve
things to do & points of interest
Biodôme de Montréal
514.868.3000 www2.ville.Montréal.qc.ca/biodome 4777, av. Pierre-De Coubertin, H1V 3N7 An unique museum in the world where five ecosystems are recreated: Arctic, the laurentienne forest , the marine St. Lawrence and the rain forest.
Château Dufresne
514.259.9201 www.chateaudufresne.com 2929, av. Jeanne-d’Arc, H1W 3W2 By its collections and exhibitions, the Château Dufresne museum seeks, collects and interprets as well the working history as upper-class, the industrial inheritance, visual and decorative arts of the beginning of the XXe century of the district, Montréal and Canada.
Jardin botanique de Montréal
514.872.1400 www2.ville.Montréal.qc.ca/jardin 4101, rue Sherbrooke Est, H1X 2B2 With its collection of 22 000 species and cultivars of plants, its 10 greenhouses of exhibition, its around thirty thematic gardens, iis research team and its programs of animation, the Jardin Botanique of Montréal is classified among the most important and the most beautiful botanical gardens of the world.
Parc Olympique
514 252-4141 4141, av. Pierre-De Coubertin, H1V 3N7 Conceived for the olympics of 1976, its construction includes the Tower, the Stage (Stadium), the Sports center, the tourist Hall, the outside areas.
Théâtre Denise-Pelletier
514.253.8974 www.denise-pelletier.qc.ca 4353, rue Ste Catherine Est, H1V 1Y2 Contemporary French language theatre and dance in a converted church, home to choreographers’ studios and the Salle Fred-Berry.
Hochelaga - Maisonneuve
R estaur a n ts & accommod a tio n Restaurant Le Valois 25, Place Simon Valois, Montréal, H1W 0A6
514.528.0202 téléc. : 514.528.4366 www.levalois.ca
Located in the heart of Montréal’s Hochelage-Maisonneuve district on the promenade Ontario, Le Valois offers a fresh take on the classic french brasserie. You will be served in a warm atmosphere, a harmonious mix of Art Deco with rich coloured wood and glass.
Restaurant Cabotins 4821, rue Sainte-Catherine est
514.251.8817
With humour, this restaurant has been set in a former men’s clothing shop. Both menu and décor have been adapted to the previous use of the space.
Auberge le Sieur de Joliette 2617, rue Joliette, Montréal, H1W 3H1
514.526.0439 www.lesieurdejoliette.com
Located near the Olympic stadium, your hosts Marc and Jeanne will offer you a warm welcome at this bed & breakfast with four rooms and decorated with a style that is both classic and modern. Featuring a beautiful outdoor patio in the summertime. 96 l GQ
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Montérégie / Eastern Townships
Montérégie
Le jardin d’Henriette © ministère du Tourisme du Québec
The GardEn of Québec
S
panning the southern shore of the Saint-Lawrence River, to the east of Montréal, the Montérégie stretches all the way to the American border in the south and up to Lac Saint-Pierre in the north. With Longueuil and the other South Shore suburbs of Montréal, the Montérégie’s 1.4 million inhabitants make it the second most populous region in Québec. The area takes its name for the Monteregian Hills, which are all located in the Montérégie, with the exception of Mount Royal. The region includes several major rivers, including the Richelieu and the Yamaska, as well as the Vaudreuil peninsula, which is the triangle formed by the Saint98 l GQ
Lawrence, the Ottawa River and the Ontario border, just west of Montréal. Montérégie also holds some of Québec’s most stunning farmland, making it one of the most important agricultural regions for Montréal, with its vegetable farms, orchards and vineyards. The population is concentrated along the shores of the SaintLawrence, facing the island of Montréal, in the towns that were amalgamated to create Longueuil and in the rest of the South Shore. There are five bridges linking the South Shore to the city and one metro station, located at the end of the Jacques-Cartier Bridge in Longueuil.
Longueuil
S
Longueuil, Gateway to the Montérégie
eparated from Montréal by the Saint-Lawrence, the city of Longueuil celebrated its 350th anniversary in 2007. The city was founded by Charles Lemoyne, a wealthy French merchant from Montréal, whose famous sons Pierre LeMoyne d’Iberville and Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Vienville, took an active part in French colonial expansion in North America, founding Louisiana and New Orleans respectively. East of the Saint-Lawrence, the South Shore’s many suburbs have flourished over the past 50 years. Vieux-Longueuil,
the city’s version of Old Montréal, is full of charm and exquisite fine dining. Getting there from the Village is simply a matter of either walking or biking across the Jacques-Cartier Bridge, or simply hopping onto the metro. Many gays who prefer the tranquility of the suburbs to the busy city life have settled there over the years. With over 230,000 inhabitants (400,000 if you count the agglomeration), Longueuil also has two saunas that cater to gay and bisexual men.
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Longueuil
things to do & points of interest Azteca 2954, boulevard de Chambly Longueuil, J4L 1N2
450.674.1444
With a varied menu of Mexican dishes and a great selection of imported goods in the adjacent boutique. Copains Gourmands Restaurant 352 rue Guillaume (angle St-Jean), Longueuil, Qc J4H 1S4
450.928.1433 www.copainsgourmands.com
French cuisine, local produce, international inspirations and gourmet flair are given special attention at chef Jean-François Hogue and partner Éric’s charming Old Longueuil eatery. Messina 329, rue Saint-Charles Ouest Vieux-Longueuil, J4H 1E7
450.651.3444 www.messina.ca
Chef Lorenzo has concocted a spectacular menu of reinvented Italian dishes, with the ultimate in flavour and presentation. Tasting menu for 2, special events rental, and more. Sauna 1286 1286, chemin Chambly, Longueuil, J4J 3W6
450.677.1286 www.1286.ca
This sauna is open 24 hours a day, and makes for an ideal playground for men seeking men. Sauna, open showers, hot tub, video room, room and locker rental. Sauna 3481 3481 Montée Saint-Hubert
(450) 462-3481 sauna3481@hotmail.com
This small and meticulously clean sauna is geared towards a more mature, discrete crowd. Dry sauna, steam room, hot tub. Rapid HIV testing first Friday of every month, 12-4pm.
Only 15 minutes from downtown Montréal
514.890.1000 / 1.877.890.1008 $109,00/night (double occ.) Continental breakfast, Wii access, local telephone calls & parking included.
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Montérégie Restaurant L’incrédule ©Cesar Ochoa
The Montérégie Countryside
A
way from Montréal’s suburbs, the Richelieu Valley is one of the oldest agricultural areas in Québec, and is definitely worth the detour. By travelling along the shores of the river, you are walking in the footsteps of the famous Patriots who fought for freedom and the independence of Québec from Great Britain in the revolt of 1837-1838. With its spectacular hills rising like monoliths in the middle of a plain, the region offers many gorgeous hiking trails, like the ones at Mont Saint-Bruno in Longueuil. Halfway between Montréal and Sherbrooke, Grandby is the largest city in the Yamaska valley. Just a few kilometres from Granby, the naturist lodge Bain de Nature has been welcoming the gay community for over 27 years, and a fantastic place to stop and bask in the tranquility of the countryside. Ski Bromont, located just a few kilometres from Granby, is 102 l GQ
one of the most popular ski resorts for Montréalers. Granby zoo, the largest in Québec, is also a major attraction. In Saint-Hyacinthe, you will find L’Illusion, the region’s only gay bar. The area also benefits from a milder winter than the rest of Québec, thanks to the warm winds from the Atlantic that freshen the Appalachians. It is in this region that we find most of the vineyards in Québec, along the wine route. Epicureans will want to discover these exotic Québec wines. Nature and camping lovers will want to make a stop at Camping Plein Bois in Sainte-Marthe, close to Rigaud, on the Vaudreuil peninsula, the largest gay camping site in Québec. Largest cities: Longueuil (population 233.000), Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu (population 90.000), Brossard (population 76.000).
Longueuil/Montérégie
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Montérégie
accommodation Auberge Relais 4 Saisons Inn 579, rue Bord-de-l’eau Sud, Noyan, J0J 1B0
450.294.2677 / 1.877.294.2677 www.au4saisons.com
Hostel build in 1936 completely renovated while retaining its original character, situated in the countryside on the banks of beautiful Lake Champlain (water activities available). Accommodation services, catering, recreation, dance, and marina packages are offered.
Auberge West Brome 128, route 139, West Brome, Qc J0E 2P0
1.888.902.7663 / 450.266.7552 www.awb.ca
Located only an hour from Montréal in the undulating hills of the Eastern Townships, the Spa West Brome is a modern therapeutic spa that offers the allure of a country inn with the added attraction of fine dining inspired by local and regional produce.
Bar L’Illusion
(450) 252-4011
460 Av Mondor, Saint-Hyacinthe, J2S 5A7 The region’s only gay bar.
Camping Domaine de la Frontière Enchantée
450.826.4490 www.campingfrontiereenchantee.com
474, ch. Covey Hill Havelock, J0S 2C0 In operation since 1963, this well maintained campground offers offers two lakes, waterfalls, a 25m-long pool, and par three golf. A full list of activities all summer long. This year open until October.
Chalets à louer.ca / 1380, rue Dalaire, Saint-Hyacinthe, Qc J2S 9A2
514.954.8965 / 418.686.5465 www.chaletsalouer.ca
Over 1,876 cottages for rent and 101 cottages for sale in Canada, the US and Mexico! www.chaletsalouer.ca is the ultimate web resource to find the perfect cottage to rent for your vacation anywhere in Québec. You can even contact the owners directly with no middle man!
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Montérégie
Accommodation Gîte Le point de vue 135 ch. Bourget, Rigaud, Qc J0P 1P0
Tél. : 514 927-6468 www.lepointdevue.net
Perched on the summit of Mont-Rigaud on the South Shore, surrounded by a patch of green between earth and sky, this B&B’s view will blow you away. With superior comforts earning it a 4-sun rating, you’ll love the generous breakfasts and pastoral déco
Hôtel Brossard 7365, boulevard Marie-Victorin Brossard, J4W 1A6
514.890.1000 / 1.877.890.1008 www.hotelbrossard.com
Whether for a business trip or a romantic get-away, enjoy a stay in one of the 125 rooms or suites with European flair and great views of Montréal. This South Shore hotel also houses a massage therapy centre.
Le Chien Noir Rue Lakeside, Knowlton, Qc, J0E 1V0
Info@LeChienNoir.ca www.lechiennoir.ca
This luxury apartment is unique in the Knowlton area, offering accommodation that combines the elegance of yesteryear with today’s comforts. The perfect place to start exploring the boutiques, antiques shops and wineries of the renowned “Route des Vins” that criss-crosses the bucolic countryside.
Motel Grande-Île 1215, boul. Mgr.-Langlois, Grande-Île, J6S 1C1
450.373.9080 www.motelgrande-ile.com
On Highway 20, exit 14 you will find a motel with various facilities available: telephone, internet and well equipped guest rooms.
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“Deux vieilles” Musics and lyrics by Clémence DesRochers
L’été, quand il fait beau soleil, Je vois souvent passer deux vieilles Qui marchent en se tenant le bras, Elles s’arrêtent à tous les dix pas Quand j’entends leur éclat de rire J’ai un peu moins peur de vieillir C’est la chanson que je nous chante, Serons-nous deux vieilles amantes ? Resterons-nous tendres complices De mes manies, de tes caprices Dans le secret d’une maison, Le château fort de nos saisons, Où je fredonne un air ancien ? Cet été je ferai un jardin
Clémence DesRochers © Voir
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C’est la chanson que je nous chante, Serons-nous deux vieilles amantes Descendant lentement le temps, Qui s’arrêtent de temps en temps ? Tu cherches l’ombre, moi le soleil Les gens diront “Voyez les vieilles Qui sont ensemble depuis toujours Et qui mourront le même jour” L’été, quand il fait beau soleil, Je vois souvent passer deux vieilles Qui sont ensemble depuis toujours Qui partiront, qui partiront, Qui partiront le même jour.
Abbaye Saint-Benoît © Stéphane Lemire
Eastern Townships
In the garden of Clémence DesRochers
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n 1980, singer and songwriter Clémence Desrochers was the first Québec musician to speak of lesbian love with her song Deux Vieilles (‘’Two old women’’). The daughter of poet Alfred DesRochers, Clémence DesRochers is a multidisciplinary artist, singer, actress, and comedian whose charisma and humanity have long won over the Québec public. From the age of 17, she was part of Paul Buissonneau’s La Roulotte, before she became famous for a series of roles for Radio-Canada. In 1969,
she staged the musical Les Girls, along with Paule Bayard, Louise Latraverse, Diane Dufresne and Chantal Renaud. And she has been since then always concerned with women issues in our society. After being part of dozens of comedy, theatre, and films as actress and director, after winning many awards showing appreciation from her audience and peers, Clémence Desrochers was made a Knight of the Ordre National du Québec in 2001. After retiring from the stage in 2008, she received GQ l 107
Eastern Townships the Governor General’s Award for performing arts in 2009, and was decorated with the Order of Canada in 2010. Unsurprisingly, her rare stage appearances from the last 3 years have sold out months in advance. In the cold months, the Eastern Townships becomes a hot-spot for everything that slides on snow or ice. Venture to one of the three summits of Mount Orford, the highest of which rises to 850 metres, to admire the spectacular beauty of the view. Mount Shefford, meanwhile, is known for its dramatic slopes and attracts extreme skiers from all over. At 968 metres, Mount Sutton is one of the biggest ski resorts, and is one of the foremost snowboarding attractions in Québec. The resolutely English-named Owl’s Head, with its stunning view of Lake Magog, has 4 ski lifts to accommodate up to 14,000 skiers and boarders at a time, and has an international reputation for downhill enthusiasts. Mount Orford Park is a National Park perfectly suited for a long range of outdoor activities all year
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round, only a few kilometres from Sherbrooke. With popular ski resorts and lakes ideal for water sports, it is known as cottage country for many Montréalers. You can enjoy the Véloroute des Cantons, a network of 11 scenic trails or the Route des Sommets, where you can go horse-back riding in the forest from one of numerous stables. Kayaking is also a major attraction, taking advantage of the region’s countless calm waterways. The Eastern Townships is an outdoor adventure paradise. Lake Memphrémagog, lac Mégantic, lac Aylmer, lac Massawippi: all summer long, kayaks, canoes, sailboats and water-skis crisscross these majestic lakes that even host swimming competitions and are among the most popular spots of the region. Is there anything that says “vacation” more than diving head first into the soft clean fresh water of a country lake? For Gourmets The Eastern Townships are also known for the wineries that bask in the region’s milder climate, provid-
Sherbrooke
Sherbrooke The “Queen” of the Eastern Townships
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lémence Desrochers was born in Sherbrooke, which is sometimes known as the “Queen” of the Eastern Townships. This quaint university town has a unique mix of Québec culture with that of the United Empire Loyalists, who fled New England after the American Revolution to settle in the region. Sherbrooke is the largest city in the Eastern Townships, and with over 40,000 students, it has the largest student population proportionally in Québec. Nightlife is concentrated downtown around King Street and Wellington. Located over 140km from Montréal, Sherbrooke has developed its own gay and lesbian scene. The friendly pub L’OtreZone is frequented by the city`s gays and lesbians.
Lac-des-Nations is a beautifully landscaped multi-use urban pathway (walking, biking, roller blading) that circles the lake of the same name. Make sure to stop at the gorgeous cascading fountain at the Halte des Nations. You can also eat or quench your thirst at the Marché de la Gare, a public market where you can find some local delicacies. A few steps from the market, you will find the Tourist information office, and board the Orford Express, one of the most beautiful tourist trains in Canada. The Promenade Lac-des-Nations is well-maintained and accessible all year round, allowing locals and tourists alike to get a taste of nature in the heart of the city in both summer and winter.
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Eastern Townships yards, country inns, cider orchards and animal farms. The foodie tourist will find something to satisfy their appetite and their curiosity.
ed by the more temperate Atlantic winds as they meet the Appalachian Mountains. Whether you’re exploring them on by hike, bike, or car, the byways and high ways of the Townships guarantee some tasty discoveries. The Route des Vins (Winery Route) stretches over 140 km, with pastoral roads, vine-
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When it comes to haute cuisine and excellent chefs, the Townships have them in spades, whether it’s on land, rail, or boat! Looking for a taste of something different? Enjoy the immersive experience of the Orford Express, a tourist train where the beauty of the scenery is matched only by the flavours created exclusively by their master chef. Largest cities: Sherbrooke: population 150,000; Granby: population 60,000
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Eastern Townships Accommodation
À la Maison Hatley B&B 48, rue Hatley, Magog, J1X 3G4
819.868.6606 / 1.888.996.6606 www.lamaisonhatley.com
In a lovely waterfront ancestral home dating to 1875, you can enjoy a cosy stay just a short walk from the centre of the town. The outdoor spa is open year round.
À la Maison Hôte Orford 2037, chemin du Parc Canton Orford, J1X 7A2
819.868.2604 www.maisonhote.com
With an unmatched view of Mount Orford, this B&B, located just minutes away from Lake Magog, is distinguished by its quiet sophistication. Thanks to your experienced hosts, Danielle and Robert, you’ll find pleasure and serenity at once.
Auberge aux deux Pères 680, chemin Des Pères, Magog, J1X 0P9
819.769.3115 / 514.616.3114 www.audeuxperes.com
Unequalled view looking onto Lake Memphémagog, welcoming staff, four large rooms with private bathrooms, and a heated swimming pool.
Au chant du Coq 2387, chemin du Parc, Orford, J1X 7A2
819.843.2247 www.chantducoq.com
Bed and Breakfast rated 4 stars by the CITQ for its superior comfort, superb facilities and range of services.
Au Manoir de la rue Merry 92, rue Merry Sud, Magog, Qc J1X 3L3
819.868.1860 / 1.800.450.1860 www.manoirmerry.com
This charming ancestral home welcomes your with a warm decor and period furnishings. Your hosts, Dominique and Yves, discreet and attentive, will take good care of you. Just steps from downtown.
Bain de Nature 127, rue Lussier, Saint-Alphonse de Granby, J0E 2A0
450.375.4765 www.baindenature.ca
The luxury and comfort of Bain de Nature lie in its simplicity. Gourmet dinners served in a familial atmosphere. On the terrace, enjoy a large whirlpool and a deep tissue massage.
B&B Au Virage 172, Merry nord, Magog, Qc J1X 2E8
819.868.5828 / 1.866.868.5828 www.auvirage.ca
This warm and comfortable B&B, built in 1937, also features air conditioning and wireless internet. Located just a few minutes’ walk from the beach and all of the activities of the magnificent region of Magog Orford.
Domaine de Courval 825, chemin de Courval Waterville J0B 3H0
819.837.0062
This small dairy in the Coaticook valley is home to Laurie and Reynald, and is a destination for any goat’s cheese aficionado. You’ll want to try their mould-ripened cheese as well, the Lunik and the Perle. 112 l GQ
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Eastern Townships Domaine Pinnacle inc. 150, Chemin Richford, Frelighsburg, Qc J0J 1C0
450.298.1226 www.domainepinnacle.com
This family business produces an ice cider that has received acclaim and prizes worldwide. Take a tour of the orchard and visitors’ centre and taste or purchase locally made confections and foodstuffs.
Gîte École Buissonnière 1685, Chemin Saint Armand, Saint Armand, JOJ 1T0
450.248.0260 www.giteecolebuissonniere.com
Overlooking the scenic Mont Pinnacle in Saint Armand, at the heart of the wine district, this converted country school house has been magnificently restored as an historic bed & breakfast.
Hôtel Saint Martin Bromont
450.534.0044 / 1.866.355.0044
111 blvd. du Carrefour, Bromont, J2L 3L1 www.lestmartinbromont.com There’s no better place to enjoy the quaint landscape of Bromont than this Hotel, which looks out over the outskirts of the town. A boutique hotel with 70 rooms and suites, you’ll love its unparalleled comforts, quietude, and the distinguished interiors of the St-Martin Bromont.
L’Actuel Bar & Grill
819.847.1991
5, rue Hatley, Magog, J1X 3G5 www.lactuelbargrill.ca This restaurant truly lives by the seasons: come summer, enjoy the patio with its view of Lake Magog, and in winter, the heritage home’s interior is warmed by their fireplace, jazzy atmosphere, and creative cuisine.
La Maison de Ville - bed & bistro 353 Saint-Patrice O., Magog, J1X 1W7
819.868.2417 www.lamaisondeville.ca
Come experience the new flavours of this cosy Bed & Bistro. Its modern décor and chic ambiance offer something comfortable and special in the heart of old Magog. You’ll be charmed by the location and by your hosts, Simon Beaupré and Martin Gagné.
Le Relais des Mésanges 148 route 112 Ouest, Dudswell, J0B 1G0
1.819.884.1232 / 1.855.8841232
Three country houses and five chalets. Less than two hours drive from Montréal and Quebec, with the Relais des Mésanges, taste the saving peace of the country !
Motel des Deux Lacs 2909, route 112, Shefford, J2M 1C6
450.539.2398 / 1.866.539.2398 www.moteldesdeuxlacs.com
8 rooms on the edge of an artificial and private lake. An amazing terrace to admire the sunset. What else ?
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Eastern Townships Spa Algua-Sulis, Centre Beauté & Bistro
819.346.1133 / 1.877.9SPASULIS www.spaalguasulis.com
950, rue King Ouest, Sherbrooke,J1H 1S3 In addition to its body treatments and tantalizing bistro menu, you’ll want to sit back and enjoy the many amenities of the Spa Algua-Sulis: whirlpool thermotherapy, Nordic and thermal waterfalls, polar baths, a Finish sauna, and outdoor relaxation areas with lakeside views. À l’auberge de la tour et spa 819 868-0763 / 1877 668-0763 1837, chemin Alfred-Desrochers, Orford, info@auberge-de-la-tour.com J1X 6J4 www.auberge-de-la-tour.com In this former farm, renovated with simplicity and taste into an Inn and spa, you will find everything you need to relax: their indoor whirlpool, open all-year round (with a view of Mount Orford) or in their infrared sauna.
Méchant Steak 111 Wellington Nord, Sherbrooke, Qc J1H 5B9
819.791.5544 www.mechantsteak.com
This unique steakhouse is the place where ambiance, creative cooking and delicious regional ingredients like fine cheese, mushrooms, and locally raised meat combine to make an unforgettable culinary experience.
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Laval / The Laurentians / Lanaudière
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Laval / The Laurentians / Lanaudière
Laval
The other ISLAND DJ MarkAnthony © Damian Siqueiros
J
ust north of Montréal, and with three metro stations linking it to the city, the island city/suburb of Laval has rapidly developed over the past fifty years to become an urban centre that is less and less on its metropolitan neighbour, with some 400,000 inhabitants. Laval was formed in 1965 when the former agricultural villages on Ile Jésus (Jesus Island) were amalgamated into one municipality and several new neighbourhoods were created. For those gays and lesbians that prefer the house and the yard to the city life, Laval is the favourite choice, combining the advantages of a typical North American 118 l GQ
city with a very close proximity to the Laurentian Mountains and the Quebec countryside. The shores of both the Rivière des Prairies on the south side of the island and the Rivière Mille-Iles on the north have numerous condos with breathtaking views of the waterways. The old villages on the island like Sainte-Rose have some excellent restaurants located in the hundred-year-old houses that line the old country roads. It is no wonder that the gay painter Mathieu Laca has made his home here. Amateurs of astronomy will not want to miss the Cosmodôme of Laval, which recently invested
more than 10 million dollars in renovations. There are now many new interactive technologies that allow visitors explore the Moon, Mars, or any other planet in our solar system. The visitor can then enter into a space station that plunges them into a universe that is both real and virtual. Shopaholics will want to visit the large shopping centres in Laval’s new downtown, which is easily accessible by car or by metro, while late night partyers will not want to miss Laval’s famous afterhours club Red Lite, where DJ Mark Anthony, one of the pillars of the Black & Blue festival, is a resident DJ. The gay clientele is generally more present on Sunday nights. In the Pont-Viau district, there are also two saunas for gay and bisexual men.
Autoportrait Š Mathieu Laca
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Laval Boutique Romance 450.669.6169 14, rue du Pont Viau, Laval, H7N 2X9 www.boutiqueromance.ca This prestigious erotic boutique in Laval offers high end products to indulge your fantasies. The trained staff is both friendly and helpful. Cosmodome 450.978.3600 / 1.800.565.2267 2150, autoroute des Laurentides www.cosmodome.org Laval, H7T 2T Space exploration and astronomy are the themes at this family and youth-geared thrill centre. With educational programmes, films, exhibits, and more, this season features a special multi-disciplinary display on the planet Mars. Red Lite 450.967.3057 1755, rue de Lierre www.red-lite.ca Laval, H7G 4Y With its 20,000 sq ft area, this gigantic after-hours club is one of Canada’s largest. It can accommodate up to 2,500 revellers with electro, urban, and hip-hop DJs spinning until the next day from Fri night to Sunday late morning. Sauna 226 450.975.4556 243, boul. des Laurentides Laval, H7G 2T Looking for that very discrete encounter outside of the village? This sauna caters to a 30+ in a spacious and laid back environment. Sauna Pont-Viau 450.663.3386 1A, rue de Nevers Laval, H7G 1A7 This off-island gay sauna is now even more accessible due to the recently opened mÊtro Cartier. Its 15 rooms (3 doubles), and dry sauna have been a haven of hot hook-ups for over 35 years.
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36 rooms and 5 cottages
Hot tub, sauna, spa treatments Cross-country ski & snowshoe trails Swimming pool, bicycles, canoes, & paddle-boats available
Group, business, relaxation and outdoor packages available
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Spa Resort Fine Dining For quality hospitality & fine dining.
3167, 1er rang doncaster Val-David www.aubergeduvieuxfoyer.com
819.322.2686 - 1800.567.8327
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the Laurentians © Tourisme Laurentides
A NATURAL Destination
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ocated just north of Montréal, the Laurentians are by far the foremost destination for citydwellers looking for the peace and quiet of the great outdoors. You only have to try taking Highway 15 northof Montréal on a Friday or Sunday to realize just how much they like it out there. For many types of visitors, from day-trippers to explorers, the mountains and foothills of the Laurentians, which rise abruptly from the plain of the St. Lawrence Basin, are a major tourist attraction. With its ski hills, such as the internationally renowned MontTremblant, its lively towns and villages like Saint-Sauveur, Sainte-Adèle, or Val David, and its countless lakes, it’s an area that provides year-round enjoyment with several gay-friendly or gay-oriented establishments to choose from. 122 l GQ
In the Lower Laurentians (BassesLaurentides), many gays flock to Oka Beach, a half-hour drive from Montréal just north of Laval, where naturists and nudists enjoy the sandy shores. At the place where the Ottawa and St. Lawrence Rivers join to form the Lac des Deux-Montagnes,the water is known for its freshness and quality. and the beach harbours a few marvels of its own. For outdoor dancing, there’s nothing like the Beach Club at Pointe-Calumet. For a more sophisticated occasion that requires architectural flair, or for a wedding, the Abbaye d’Oka is a no longer a monastery and is open to the public. In Saint-Hyppolite, near SaintJérôme, the Auberge du Lac du Pin Rouge is inn that hosts a Sunday gay night.
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the Laurentians © Tourisme Laurentides
With its backdrop of waterfalls that are typical of the Laurentians, a lot of gay naturists prefer to strip down at the waterfalls of Saint-Margueritedu-Lac-Masson, just between SaintJérome and Saint-Sauveur. The adorable town of Saint-Saveur is a locale favoured by nature-lovers, skiers, and gourmets. You’ll be charmed by the shops, restaurants and resort ambiance. In summer, a gigantic waterpark attracts bathers of all ages, or for something less crowded, try one of the many spas in the surrounding area. In winter, the Mont Saint-Sauveur ski hill is one of Québec’s most popular ski resorts. And it’s only one of 5 ski hills that in all total over 100 downhill trails. From the end of July to early August, music, art, and dance enthusiasts convene in the town for the Festival des arts de Saint-Sauveur. The festival hosts major headliners from the national and international dance and music scene. Further north, the resort town of Mont-Tremblant has been the Lau124 l GQ
rentians’ premier tourist destination since the early days of the “P’tit train du nord.” Nowadays, the railway has been turned into a bike path, for a sportier way to explore the area. Since the city was revamped by the development company Intrawest, and reconstructed to resemble a mountain ski town, all-season tourism has been booming. Vacationers from Canada, the US and all over the world flock to Tremblant, which boasts a newly opened casino to add some international glamour. A whole series of events and festivals punctuate the cultural year, from the Féérie des Glaces (Feb-March) to the Festi Jazz in August, and the Rhythmes Tremblant which happen every weekend in July and August. Major urban centres (aside from the Montréal suburbs on the Rivière des Milles-Îles): Saint-Jérome (pop. 68,000). Saint-Sauveur (pop. 10,000), Mont-Tremblant (pop. 9,000), Mont-Laurier (pop. 13,000)
Inspired by the charm of yesteryear, the Quintessence is the rst boutique hotel in Mont-Tremblant, featuring 30 elegant suites on the shores of Lac Tremblant. The Quintessence restaurant offers rened cuisine, highlighting regional products. The Spa Sans Sabots will complete your experience with personalized care of the highest calibre. Mention the reservation code (GGQ) and get a 10% discount. Don’t forget to ask about our wedding packages! 3004, chemin de la Chapelle, Mont-Tremblant J8E 1E1 819.425.3400 | 1 866 425.3400 | info@hotelQuintessence.com GQ l 125
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the Laurentians accomm o d a t i o n & S e r v i c es Amerispa Station Baltique 160, rue Watchorn Morin-Heights, J0R 1H0
450.226.7722 / 1.866.263.7477 www.amerispa.ca
Nestled in a century-old forest, this spa offers you the experience of relaxation in the Nordic style, one of 10 Amerispa locations in Québec. You’ll want to stop in at chef Bernard Minguy’s Bistro afterwards.
Aqua Restaurant Bar Avenue des Grandes Tourelles Boisbriand, J7H 0A7
450.818.1052 www.aquarestaurantbar.com
This unique restaurant and bar on the North Shore offers you a multi-sensory experience. Share tapas with friends or try some of their original dishes in a decor that is both urban and chic, complete with in-house DJ. From 10pm on, the tables are taken away to make space for a lively dance floor where guest artists perform
Auberge Rêve Blanc 707, chemin Ferme Rouge, Mont‑Laurier, J9L 3G3
819.623.2628 / 1.866.523.2628 www.auberge-quebec.ca
Nature-lovers will love this both rustic and modern Inn, nestled between the forest and the river. Hosts Jeff and Nathy will make you feel right at home.
Auberge du Vieux Foyer 3167 1er rang Doncaster, Val-David J0T 2N0
819 322-2686 / 1800 567-8327 www.aubergeduvieuxfoyer.com
For 50 years this charming resort has been a gateway to enjoying nature’s beauty. The fastidiously prepared rooms, outdoor activities, and cozy atmosphere make this the perfect place for a romantic escape or special occasion get-away.
Aventure Quatre Saisons 13080, Route 117, Labelle, Qc J0T 1H0
514.554.5091 www.aventurequatresaisons.com
Adventure awaits: canoeing, kayaking, group rafting and yurt tenting on the shores of the Rivière Rouge in the Upper Laurentians. Enjoy the beaches of fine white sand, the calm waters, the natural forest and the exotic flair of Mongolian yurts. A certified personal guide will accompany you for your stay.
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C O N T A C T
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the Laurentians Chalets de l’aiglon 566, chemin du Progrès Chute-Saint-Philippe, J0W 1A0
Diane St-Louis 819.585.2732 www.aiglon.ca
Five fully equiped cottages provide the perfect launch pad for enjoying the major sugarshack, snowmobiling and cross-country ski trails.
Chalets Escapade 6933, route 117, Val-Morin J0T 2R0
819.322.2502 / 1.877.322.2502 www.escapadelaurentide.com
Personalized service and numerous activities (hot-tub, spa, sauna, billiards, heated outdoor pool) await you, only minutes from the Belle-Neige ski hill and outdoor adventure areas!
Chalets Lac à la Truite 1961, chemin de la Montagne, Sainte-Agathe, J8C 2Z7
819.321.2222 / 1.877.700.2221 www.noschalets.com
With our whole variety of full equiped chalets fronting the lakefront, we’re offering you the best of the Laurentians. Come and see by yourself how great it is to relax and breathe Lac à la Truite’s fresh air (private beach, kayak, etc.) A sensorial experience to share.
Chalet Tremblant LES EAUX
514.718.0621 / 514.593.3000 www.chaletsauquebec.com/FicheChalet.aspx?IdChalet=4737 This lovely chalet-style condo is comfortable and close-by ski hills, golf courses, and a spa. The fireplace and 2 closed bedrooms, this rental apartment comfortably accommodates up to 6 people. Contact : Sylvain Tremblay
Condos Étoiles Laurentides 514, chemin du Mont Loup-Garou, Sainte-Adèle, J8B 3C8
514.831.1843 www.condoslaurentides.com
A haven of peace par excellence, Condos Stars Laurentians offer quiet and romantic. Ideal for a getaway in the countryside, couples will discover relaxation and comfort. Whirlpool, terrace, equipped kitchen, TV, bedding and towels, etc.
Condo Lac Tremblant 2853 Chemin du Village, Mont‑Tremblant J8E 1E9
1.819.681.1751 info@condolactremblant.com www.condolactremblant.com
Located just 1km from the Mont Tremblant ski resort, these condos, fully-equiped, offer a majestic view on the Lake Tremblant marina and the mountains. Also features a heated outdoor pool!
Domaine La Cédrière
450.963.1638 / 514.926.1638 www.domainelacedriere.com
The Cedrière’s two fabulous Scandinavian-style log cabins have everything you need for the perfect get-away. Built in 2009 with the highest quality materials, each can accommodate 8-12 people. Wood fire place, dining room, ample-sized beds, fully equipped kitchen, pool tables and embedded sound system throughout with optional Wifi. An exclusive, reduced-access location where calm, luxury and pure enjoyment await you. 128 l GQ
450 227-1800 hotelstsauveur.ca
[ Nordic landscape_Urban comfort ] Specializing in packages (dining, ski, outdoors, spa, water park, etc.)
Come and enjoy the stay of your dreams, where refinement and relaxation will ensure an experience of well-being that you won’t soon forget. The hotel is situated in the heart of the magnificent Saint-Sauveur Valley, just a stone’s throw away from a wide variety of restaurants and activities.
NEW!
Our luxurious Cottage can accommodate 8 guests in comfort and tranquility. ASK FOR OUR RAINBOW PACKAGE, GQ l 129 EXCLUSIVE TO THE MEMBERS OF THE GUIDE!
the Laurentians
accomm o d a t i o n & S e r v i c es Évasion Gîtes et Refuges 1401 Chemin du lac aux Quenouilles Lac Supérieur QC, J0T 1J0
819.688.5407 Web : www.evasiongiterefuges.ca
Lovers of nature and the outdoors will adore the tranquillity of Évasion Gîtes et Refuges. Located just 15 minutes from Mont-Tremblant, and located in a heavily wooded-area, don`t leave to go hiking without having eaten a hearty breakfast, offered by one of your friendly hosts.
Gîte B&B Le Roupillon 2316, Chemin du Village, Mont Tremblant, J8E 1E9
819.429.6402 / 1.877.819.0827 www.giteleroupillon.com
A charming nature is waiting for you at 5 min. from Tremblant (skiing, casino, etc.) Full equipped and confortable rooms and condos (spa, terrace, massage, etc.) Restaurant Les Artistes offers you a complete and fresh table every day.
Gîte Confort et Sérénité 115, route 364, Morin Heights, J0R 1H0
450 226-8791 www.confortetserenite.com
Paul and Chantal welcome you in their relaxing Inn, where you are surrounded by nature and the gentle lullaby of the river.
Hôtel Alpine Inn et Relais Santé 1440, chemin Pierre-Péladeau, Sainte-Adèle, J8B 1Z4
450.229.1545 / 1.877.257.4630 www.hotelalpineinn.com cigale-california.com
Perched between mountains and the river, this historic inn (built in 1924) is the perfect place to rest. You’ll feel pampered by the health centre and restaurant (with wood fireplace).
Hôtel du Lac 121, rue Cuttle, Ville de MontTremblant (Québec) J8E 1B9
1.800.567.8341 / 1.819.425.2731 www.hoteldulac.ca info@hoteldulac.ca
The supreme relaxation experience awaits you at Spa-sur-le-Lac, in the heart of nature. Treat yourself to special moments at the peaceful oasis at Hotel du Lac.
Hôtel La Sapinière 1244, rue de la Sapinière Val-David, J0T 2N0
819.322.2020 www.sapiniere.com
This hotel complex with 64 rooms and suites is an institution that has hosted international politicians, artists and athletes for decades. Don’t miss out on their spectacular view of the Lake or the refined cuisine of their restaurant.
Hôtel Quintessence 304, chemin de la Chapelle Mont-Tremblant
819.425.3400 www.hotelquintessence.com
Nestled in the heart of the Laurentian Mountains, on the shores of Lac Tremblant, this elegant hotel reinvents the traditional “mountain chalet”. A peaceful, yet chic, sanctuary.
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accomm o d a t i o n & S e r v i c es Hôtel Saint-Sauveur 500, ch. des Frênes, Piedmont J0R 1K0
450.227.1800 / 1.866-547.1800 www.hotelstsauveur.ca
This conveniently located hotel is within walking distance of St-Sauveur’s many restaurants and winter activities, with a magical view of the surrounding valley.
Hôtel Spa Watel 250, Saint-Venant Sainte-Agathe-des-Monts, J8C 2Z7
819.326.7016 1.800.363.6478
Tucked on a mountainside with a view of the Lac des Sables, the 31 rooms and suites (with jacuzzi) have everything for a perfect get-away: massage therapy, spa, sauna, restaurant serving local cuisine and a live show venue – with beach and ski hills nearby.
Hostellerie du Lac Noir 2791, Chemin des Faucons, Nominingue, J0W 1R0
819.278.3817 / 1.888.278.3817 www.hostelacnoir.qc.ca hotelln@expresso.qc.ca
Discover a nature lover’s heaven: 8 rustic cabins to enjoy the peacefulness of nature, tucked on the lakeshore in a beautiful 44 acre forest. Trails, mini farm and 4 season activities. Well behaved pets welcome.
Kanata Tremblant France Légaré (Directrice des Ventes)
1.877.734.3414 / 819.421.1152 www.KanataTremblant.com
Located only 20 minutes from Mont Tremblant, the Kanata Tremblant Écovillage and log cabins is a spectacular refuge, set on 1300 acres of mountains and forest. Have your own eco-friendly lake-side log cabin built with the best materials available, for less than you think.
Parachutisme Adrénaline (LAURENTIDES) 881, Lamontagne, Saint-Jérôme, J5L 1T8
1.877.727.2248 / 450.438.0855 www.paradrenaline.ca
Come experience your first instructor-led tandem parachute glide only 30 min from Montréal. There’ll be nothing on your mind but the fantastic scenery as you descend to earth. Video and photo options available.
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accomm o d a t i o n & S e r v i c es Relais St-Denis 61 St-Denis Avenue, Saint-Sauveur (Quebec) J0R 1R4
450.227.4766 / 1.888.997.4766 www.relaisstdenis.com
Exceptional location, luxuriously-appointed suites, 4-season spa and outdoor swimming. In every suite: Living/dining area, fireplace, air-conditioning,TV, CD/DVD player, double therapeutic bath Glass shower stall, Hi-speed Internet.
Spa Ofuro 777 chemin de St Adolphe, Morin Heights, J0R 1H0
450.226.2442 / 1.877.884.2442 www.spaofuro.com
Open in 2000, this Japanese-themed spa is breathtaking. With a small stream running through the spa, the hot tubs, saunas, steam rooms, hammocks and wood burning stoves blend into the natural landscape to provide an experience of ultimate relaxation.
Résidences Mont-Tremblant 102 allée du Rabaska CP 2670, Mont-Tremblant, J8E 1B1
1.819.425.5707 / 1.888.425.5707 www.rabaskatremblant.com
RABASKA, located right between the ski hill and the resort town of Tremblant, and adjacent to the P’tit Train du Nord golf course, the Résidences Mont Tremblant are within hiking distance from the Rabaska River and the Spa Scandinave. With snowshoes and cross-country skis are waiting at your front door, this is an ideal get-away for any nature-lover.
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accomm o d a t i o n & S e r v i c es Royal Laurentien 2237, chemin Lac Nantel sud Saint-Faustin, Lac Carré, J0T 1J2
819.326.2347 / 1.800.GOLF.ROYAL www.royallaurentien.com
Located in St-Faustin-Lac Carré in the Laurentians, these luxurious chalets will not leave anyone indifferent. Some of our chalets offer private outdoor Spas.
Restaurant Le Cheval de Jade 688 rue de Saint-Jovite, Mont-Tremblant, Qc J8E 3J8
819.425.5233 www.chevaldejade.com
Restaurant Le Cheval de Jade. Fine French Cuisine. Winner of the Table d’Or des Grands Prix du Tourisme Laurentides 2011. Local ingredients are served. Gourmet menu offered with 7 or 9 courses. Table d’hôte from $27,75. Vegetarian dishes, bouillabaisse, fish, seafood, local meats, foie gras & duck.
Sentier Plein Air La Détente 3169, boul. Des Ruisseaux, Mont‑Laurier, J9L 3G6
Rod Poirier & Sylvie Lefebvre 819.623.6818 www.ladetente.qc.ca
Is located in the heart of the Upper Laurentians, and boasts a host of outdoor activities in all seasons. Whether it’s fishing, hunting or hiking, you have everything you’ll need for an unforgettable vacation! Make yourself at home in the fully equipped chalet. Tremblant Mountain Chalets
1.888.624.6097 www.tremblantmountainchalets.com These charming cabins, built to measure with all of the modern amenities, are perfect for a romantic getaway or a vacation between friends. Located 6km from Mont Tremblant`s northern ski slopes, the cabins showcase a panoramic view of the forest and the mountain.
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a c c o m m o d a t i o n & S ervices
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The essence of nature Live the Japanese experience, live Ofuro Spa
evolution emotion sensation nature
thermotherapy - massotherapy body care - esthetic care lodging - meeting room.
The most ZEN spa of all Gifts certificats available 138 l GQ
777, chemin St-Adolphe, Morin Heights 450-226-2442 1-877-884-2442 www.spaofuro.com
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Love Still Exists Lyrics: Luc Plamondon Music: Richard Cocciante
When I fall asleep against your body Then I don’t have any doubt Love still exists All my years of confusion All, I would give them all To anchor myself to your port The solitude I fear Which is watching me at the end of my route I will kick it out To love you once for all To love you at any price Despite that sickness that runs And kills the love When I fall asleep against your body Then I don’t have any doubt Love still exists We were not on the same side But after all we don’t care If we’re right or wrong The world is leaded by insanes My love it depends only on us To love ourselves harder
When I fall asleep against your body Then I don’t have any doubt Love still exists To love you once for all To love you at any price Despite that sickness that runs And kills the love When I fall asleep against your body Then I don’t have any doubt Love 140 still exists l GQ
Céline Dion © promo.sonymusic.ch
Beyond violence Beyond madness Despite the bombs falling Everywhere around the world
Lanaudière
The Hills... are alive with the sound of Céline !
C
éline Dion’s 1992 mega-hit L’Amour existe encore (Love Still Exists) was written by composer Luc Plamondon at one of the lowest moments in the AIDS crisis. In subsequent years, the international pop diva recorded the Starmania crypto-gay ballad ‘Un garçon pas comme les autres’ (“an unusual boy”), also by Plamondon, which cemented Dion’s status as a gay icon in Québec, just as her star was rising globally. Die-hard Céline Dion fans making a trip through this area won’t want to miss the opportunity to check out the small town of Charlemagne, near Repentigny, where the star was born and grew up. Ev-
eryone in town can tell you where the family homestead is. There is no shortage of opportunities to enjoy winter sports in this outdoorsy region. Snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, and ice-fishing are just some of the many winter activities made all the more enjoyable and scenic by this hilly landscape. North-east of Montréal, stretching between the Laurentians and Mauricie, Lanaudière is another much-loved nature get-away for Montrealers. While the southern part of the region is starting to look more and more suburban, with towns like Terrebonne, MasGQ l 141
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couche and Repentigny building up along the shores of the Thousand Island and St. Lawrence Rivers, the back-country is still mostly farmland and untouched forest. Unlike the Laurentians, this region’s main geographical features are hills, not mountains. Naturists are sure to enjoy the Domaine La Fierté in Saint Julienne, near Rawdon, a resort and camp-ground exclusively for gay men, with room for tents or trailers. The bar and restaurant make it the perfect holiday location with naturism allowed almost everywhere on site. There are a number of gayfriendly inns and spas in the region which offer a chance to relax, 142 l GQ
unwind, and enjoy the beautiful natural surroundings but an hour away from Montréal. Recently subsumed in the Terrebonne suburb, Lachenaie is the (perhaps) unlikely meeting place for all of the gay fetish practitioners. A private club for over 15 years, the Donjon Lachenaie is the ultimate hide-away to explore your more secret fantasies, and get warmed up! Largest cities : Terrebonne (pop. 102 000), Repentigny (pop. 79 000), Mascouche (pop. 32 000). Joliette (pop. 19.000)
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Accomm o d a t i o n Auberge Aux Quatre Matins 155, des Skieurs, Saint-Côme, QC J0K 2B0
450.883.1932 / 1.800.929.1932 www.auxquatrematins.ca info@auxquatrematins.ca
Auberge Aux Quatre Matins is the place of choice where you can take time to relax. We offer the charm of a rustic accommodation, a typical regional gastronomy, health center and a relaxing spa and many activities nearby for all seasons.
Days Inn Berthierville 760 Gadoury, Berthierville, J0K 1A0
450 836-1621 www.daysinnberthier.com
In the hometown of the famous Québec race car driver Gilles Villeneuve (for which there is a museum in town), a stay here will make you feel at home, coming back from a ski trip of snowmobile ride, or one of the many other activities in the region.
Pourvoirie Basilières 3328, Chemin Brassard RR 2, Saint-Zénon, J0K 3N0
450.884.0228 www.pavillonbasilieres.com
A mere 1.5 hours from Montréal, this country get-away is the perfect place to enjoy the natural beauty of Lanaudière.
Pourvoirie Trudeau 4551, chemin Brassard, Saint-Zénon, J0K 3N0
1.800.293.5432 / 450.884.5432 www.pourvoirietrudeau.com
This country oasis stretches over 50 square km, including 36 chalets, 27 lakes and over 116km of hiking trails. Open year round, there the chalets are the ideal place to enjoy all four seasons.
Ranch 4 Saisons 651, Rang 4, Saint Alphonse Rodriguez, Qc J0K 1W0
450.883.0933 / 1.877.883.0933 www.ranch4saisons.com
If you love the outdoors and riding, you’ll love riding vacation package Ranch 4 Saisons. Ranch 4 Saisons is located northeast of Montréal, in the Lanaudière region where lakes and mountains meet. Take advantage of a number of package deals, and go from city-slicker to cowboy!
Lanaudière Services
À la détente source Spa 2951, route 343 L’Assomption, J5W 4S1
450.588.4233 www.detentealasourcespa.ca
With its fabulous decor, pristine riverside location, and tasteful lay-out, this spa is perfect for those who are in search of a peaceful, welcoming place to unwind. Some treatments offered outdoors in the summer season.
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L’Accalmie spa nordique 1.877.481.1515 1691, rang des Forges Ouest, www.spalaccalmie.com St-Félix-de-Valois, J0K 2M0 Located in the heart of Lanaudière, on the slope of a mountain edged by the Assomption River, this spa offers a location in harmony with nature, with relaxation guaranteed. Le Donjon de Lachenaie maitreserge@hotmail.com 1691, rang des Forges Ouest, donjondelachenaie.blogspot.com St-Félix-de-Valois, J0K 2M0 Give in to your fantasies in the most well-equipped dungeon in Québec. Réserve faunique Mastigouche
1.800.665.6527 www.sepaq.com/rf/mas Founded in 1979, this nature and game reserve has maintained its pristine qualities while still being accessible by excellent roads. Hunting, fishing, hiking and relaxation are all at your doorstep (or tent-step), but beware the fabled the witch that haunts the area at night… Vilain Plaisir 450.326.0595 / 1.855.752.4747 1933, chemin Gascon, Terrebonne QC www.vilainplaisir.com J6X 4H2 Discretion is one thing, but abetting your secret desires is altogether more fun! The staff and owners of this tucked-away sex shop are expert purveyors of adult toys, hisand-her lingerie, and even offer home demonstrations (!) and discreet mail delivery.
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Winter Special
g n i h s i f e e F r the week during
Near by
• St-Jean-de-Matha Super Slides • Val St-Come Alpine Skiing • Dog Sledding • Snowmobile location Free activities included: Snowshoes and hiking, Nordik skiing access on tracks, White fishing, Snowmobile access on tracks, Snowmobile ride, Gym and Spa.
Centre de Plein air Trudeau
1 800 293-5432
www.pourvoirietrudeau.com 148 l GQ
LY
WOW! ON
From Janu ary to March ex
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Ottawa / Gatineau / ottawa river valley/ Abitibi-TĂŠmiscamingue
Ottawa / Gatineau © Tourisme Ottawa
Stradling the OTTAWA River The Ottawa River separates Québec from Ontario, as soon as one passes the Vaudreuil peninsula west of Montréal. This natural border is by no means a human border. Between Montréal and Ottawa, French remains the dominant language on both sides of the river and exchanges between residents on either side are frequent. Further west after Ottawa, the Ottawa valley is mainly English-speaking on both sides of the river. Exchanges are just as frequent up in the North West, in Témiscamingue and in Abitibi, where the border again crosses land. Although the majority of Canada`s Capital region is in Ontario, it is a cross border area which includes the city of Gatineau on the Québec side. This makes the Ot150 l GQ
tawa region the third pole of gay and lesbian life in Québec. Economic growth over the past 40 years has drastically reshaped the peaceful town of Ottawa. This growth began around the time when the Omnibus bill was passed in 1969, decriminalizing homosexuality in Canada. A city where civil servants were previously forced to hide their sexual orientation for fear of losing their jobs, in 2001, when the census included same-sex couples for the first time, ironically, the Ottawa/Gatineau region was found to have the highest percentage in the whole country. In 1857, Queen Victoria chose Ottawa to be the capital of Canada, later to become the place where great political decisions were made
Our history lives here. The Canadian Museum of Civilization and the Canadian War Museum are the must-sees of Canada’s Capital. Discover Canada’s cultural and military history within life-size environments. From May 18 to October 28, 2012, take a journey through the mysteries of Maya: Secrets of their Ancient World at the Museum of Civilization. From June 13, 2012 to January 6, 2013, learn the history behind the war of 1812 at the War Museum.
100 Laurier Street, Gatineau, Québec 1-800-555-5621 • www.civilization.ca
1 Vimy Place, Ottawa, Ontario
1-800-555-5621 • www.warmuseum.ca
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Ottawa / Gatineau Musée de la civilisation © Ottawa Tourism
to advance gay and lesbian rights and the legalisation of same-sex marriage in 2005. Beyond its administrative functions, the presence of the federal ministries helped to stimulate the creation of numerous research centers which have contributed to the economic growth and diversification of the city.
bilingual city although the Frenchspeaking community is mainly concentrated on the Québec side of the river and in the east end of Ottawa on the Ontario side, from the banks of the Rideau Canal to Orléans at the city limits.
Home of great cultural institutions such as the National Arts Center, the National Gallery of Canada and the Canadian Museum of Civilization, the capital region has become a major cultural centre in the country. Just two hours from Montréal, Ottawa is not to be missed on a trip to Québec!
A few decades ago, a more liberal set of laws regarding bars opening hours resulted in many gay establishments choosing to set up shop on the Québec side, but ever since the laws were changed to harmonise opening hours on both sides of the river, nightlife has been refocused on the Ontario side. This has contributed to the rise of a ‘’Gayborhood’’ close by Bank Street and Somerset in Ottawa’s Centretown.
With a little less than half the population of the metropolitan area speaking English as their mother tongue and one third speaking French, it is one of the most bilingual regions in Canada. No surprise then that Ottawa is officially a
Not quite a gay village yet, the area is still the epicentre of gay life. The emergence of this area as a gay area still does not detract from the appeal of the Byward Market. Nowadays, the community still gathers around these two areas.
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ENRICH
YOUR OTTAWA
EXPERIENCE
NATIONAL GALLERY OF CANADA
AN INSPIRED DESTINATION! Louise Bourgeois, Maman (detail), 1999, NGC, Ottawa. © Louise Bourgeois Trust
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Ottawa & Gatineau Downtown
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© The Village Ottawa
Ottawa
Ottawa The Village & Centretown
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ver the past 25 years, LGBT establishments have concentrated themselves in Centretown, just south of Parliament Hill. After visiting Parliamentary Hill, the National Arts Centre or the Canadian Museum of Nature, you can easily stroll down to the gaybourhood next door. The Centretown Pub has been an institution for over 25 years now. It’s location on the elegant Somerset Street, right next to Bank Street has shaped Ottawa’s gay geography. With a pub on the ground floor, the Cellblock discothèque on the second floor and the Silhouette piano-bar, it is the most popular gay
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complex in town, head to head with the Flamingo on Elgin. You’ll find a range of gay shops along Bank Street and its side streets: cafés, restaurants, bookshops, saunas, erotic shops for men and women and community resources. Closer to Parliament on Sparks street, the Edge Club has become another popular night spot. In 2011, Ottawa LGBT community group The Village succeeded in getting signs marking the stretch of Bank as The Village, and commissioned the colourful “We Demand” mural on Gilmour at Bank Street.
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The Byward Market’s European Flavor
Marché By © Ottawa Tourism
E
ast from Parliamentary Hill, on the other side of the Rideau Canal, the Byward market is the social hub of the Lower Town, the traditionally Frenchspeaking district in Ottawa. A great place to get a taste of Ottawa, local farmers sells their products on various fruit and vegetable stalls. Housing some of Ottawa`s finest restaurants as well as cafés, delicatessens, bars and specialised boutique, the Byward market has a sort of European charm. The market also has a fantastic nightlife. After visiting the National Gallery or catching a show
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at the National Arts Centre, it`s the place to be to finish the night. The LookOut and the Overkill on York Street are well frequented gay and lesbian pubs. On the ground floor, enjoy some Japanese cuisine at Kinki. Otherwise, there is always a gay night going on in one of the various bars and clubs in the area. For years now, Hump night on Wednesdays at Mercury Lounge has been the place to be. If you are a visual arts lover, take a walk at La Petite Mort Gallery on Cumberland Street, where gay artists are often shown.
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accommodation, restaurants & bars ARC The Hotel 140, rue Slater, Ottawa, K1P 5H6
613.238.2888 www.arcthehotel.com
The first luxury boutique hotel in Ottawa, this unique establishment with 112 rooms has all the modern amenities needed for a relaxing and luxurious stay. Their elegant decor was created by interior designer Yabu Pushelberg.
Centretown Pub 340, rue Somerset Ouest, Ottawa, Ontario, K2P 0J9
613.594.0233 www.centretown-pub.com
Where you can relax, have a drink, shoot some pool, and watch the game and news. You can make new friends and chill out with old friends.
Kinki Sushi 41 rue York, Ottawa, K1N 5S7
613.789.7559 www.kinki.ca
A high-quality Asian Fusion Sushi Restaurant in the ByWard Market. You can listen to some of Ottawa’s finest djs and live musicians laying down their cool-contemprary beats. The modern airy atmosphere also provides an outdoor terrace.
Ottawa Centre Bed & Breakfast 62, rue Stewart, Ottawa, ON, K1N 6J1
613.237.9494 www.ottawacenterbnb.com
This outstanding B&B offers lavish breakfasts, free off-street parking, central air conditioning, guest rooms on the second floor, in room bathrooms, wireless internet, and light laundry upon request.
Lady Dive Tours Ottawa, à l’angle de Sparks et Elgin
613.223.6211 www.ladydive.com
With its three types of vehicles, Lady Dive Tour presents an original way to discover the National Capital Region. Climb aboard the unique Amphibus, the historic Trolley or one of the three Double Deckers which two have an open roof.
More and more people are choosing Chocomotive for: l our organic fair-trade Peruvian chocolate l our locally made confections l our candy counter with over 20 different types of pralines & brittles Come discover the art of the chocolatier! Enjoy our cosy bistro with its comfort-food menu & our welcoming staff .
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Points OF interest Galerie 240 240, avenue Guigues, Ottawa, K1N 5J3
613.680.0866 www.galerie240.co
Located in Ottawa’s historic Byward market, this house, built in 1870, was once used as a convent for the Catholic church. Today, it is home to Galerie 240, which hosts temporary exhibitions featuring abstract, surrealist and symbolic art.
National Gallery of Canada 380, Prom. Sussex, Ottawa, ON, K1N 9N4
613.990.1985 / 1.800.319.ARTS www.beaux-arts.ca
Ovehanging the Ottawa River with its glass tower, the NGC feature many impressive collections of local and foreign fine arts. 2011-2012 current and upcoming exhibitions: May-Sept 2012 Van Gogh: up Close
National Arts Center 53, rue Elgin, Ottawa, ON, K1P 5W1
613.947.7000 / 1.866.850.ARTS www.nac-cna.ca
National Capital’s primary cultural institution, the NAC features varity of shows such as Rufus Wainwright and Sarah Maclachlan. Other world acclamed symphonic and ballet concerts are presented. The English theater is directed by Peter Hinton.
La Petite Mort Gallery 306, rue Cumberland, Ottawa, ON, K1N 7H9
613.860.1555 www.lapetitemortgallery.com
Avant-garde, titillating, and always surprising, the shows at Guy Bérubé's La Petite Mort Mort Gallery often feature LGBT artists. Check out the FLESH GARDEN group show July 6-29.
Canadian Museum of Nature 240, rue McLeod, Ottawa, K2P 2R1
613.566.4700 / 1.800.263.4433 www.nature.ca
Housed in an impressive castle-like structure, Canada’s natural history museum’s extensive collection presents exhibitions on diamonds, whales, and the secrets of the Arctic.
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Ottawa Annual Events Capital Pride
www.capitalpride.ca
Canada’s capital gets draped in the rainbow flag during 10 days of festivities including concerts, performances, film screenings, parties, pageants (Mr. & Miss Capital Pride) and of course the pride parade. From August 17 to 26, 2012. Mr. Leather Ottawa
www.mrleatherottawa.ca
The fetish community comes out in full swing for three days of workshops, events, and private parties, culminating with the crowning of Mr. Leather Ottawa. Normally takes place during the month of November. Inside Out Film Festival
www.insideout.ca
Ottawa`s 6th annual LGBT film festival will be held this year from November 15-18. At last year’s edition, over 3500 spectators came out to screen a selection of thirteen films from Canada and around the world. Tulip Festival
www.festivaldestulipes.ca
Every year since 1953, the Netherlands has sent 1 million colourful tulip bulbs to Ottawa to thank Canada for having sheltered the Dutch Royal Family during the Second World War. The festival features numerous events and attracts up to 500,000 visitors annually. Franco-Ontarian Festival
www.ffo.ca
A major event for francophones and francophiles, this festival, which has been a tradition since 1976, is a celebration of the vibrancy of the FrancoOntarian community. June 14-16. Canada Day
www.ottawakiosk.com
Every July 1st, Ottawa organizes a massive outdoor celebration for Canada’s birthday featuring concerts, picnics, street performances and pyrotechnics, where a sea of patriotic Canadians proudly adorn the maple leaf. Gatineau Hot Air Balloon Festival
www.montgolfieresgatineau.com
More than 200,000 people come out to this unique event to admire the colourful hot air balloons. For its 25th anniversary this year (from August 31 to September 3), the festival will be featuring performances by Isabelle Boulay, Éric Lapointe, and KC and The Sunshine Band. 162 l GQ
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Gatineau
NGC-Event-Setup © Ottawa Tourism
On the other side of the Ottawa River
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n the other side of the Ottawa River, twin-city Gatineau is home to the Canadian Museum of Civilizations. Around the federal buildings in downtown Gatineau, you will find a lot of fine restaurants and cafés. Walk through Place Aubry and around Laval Street. There are several heritage buildings in this beautiful square, including the magnificent Queen-Anne style Aubry House, the former Chez Henri Hotel (the first building to be designated as a historic monument by the new Ville de Gatineau) and the Aux 4 Jeudis 164 l GQ
café (the old Laflèche grocery store). It is also one of the rare pedestrian squares in Gatineau. Le Twist Café, on Montcalm Street nearby has been a popular gay and lesbian hub for more than a decade. The world-class Casino du Lac Leamy in Gatineau is also an attraction if you feel like gambling. The complex includes a hotel and cabaret. For almost a quarter century Gatineau has hosted a Hot Air Balloon festival (Festival des montgolfières) that adorns the sky of the capital area with balloons of all shapes and sizes.
The ultimate culinary and cultural destination in the heart of downtown
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accommodation, restaurants & bars Auberge des Outaouais 1175, rue Jacques-Cartier, Gatineau, J8T 2W3
819.561.5241 www.Auxbergesoutaouais.com
Enchanting decor, delicious cuisine and warm welcome, this is a place of rest and relaxation for people who like to explore and experience.
Le Pied de Cochon 248 Montcalm, Gatineau (QC) J8Y 3C1
819.777.5808 www.lepieddecochon.ca
This charming restaurant serves traditional French cuisine, with top choice meat and seafood on the menu.
Au feel de l’eau
819.329.2413
1 boul. du Casino, Gatineau, J8Y 6W3 www.aufeeldeleau.ca We offer à la carte private cruises on Gatieau and Ottawa River on a 100% electric boat. For business meetings, 5@7, lover getaway, special events, etc. Bar and caterer services available on demand.
Canadian Museum of Civilization 100, rue Laurier, Gatineau, QC, K1A 0M8
819.776.7000 / 1.800.555.5621 web@cililisations.ca www.civilization.ca
Impressive architectural masterpiece, this museum makes you travel true the ages that made the history of Canada. It is also the only place in North American that feature IMAX film in 3D and 2D in a Dome screen.
Château Cartier Hôtel, Conference Centre, Golf and Spa 1170, chemin Aylmer Gatineau (secteur Aylmer), J9H 7L3
1800.807.1088 www.chateaucartier.com
Perfect for your business meetings or big events, this hotel and convention centre located in the middle of nature offers both classic and signature suites, an 18-hole golf course along the Ottawa river, a health club and spa as well as a restaurant and lounge serving Brazilian cuisine.
Festibière de Gatineau Parc du Lac-Leamy, Gatineau
www.festibieredegatineau.ca
The second edition of this beer festival takes place May 25-27, 2012. Exhibitors and speakers share their passion for the brew, with activities available for the whole family.
Les brasseurs du temps 170, rue Montcalm, Gatineau, J8X 2M2
819.205.4999 www.brasseursdutemps.com
Classic or contemporary, this micro-brewery knows what the beer is all about. Their museum traces its rich history. Beer tasting on site.
Spa Homâ 4, rue Georges Bilodeau Gatineau, J8Z 1V2
819.595.3044 www.spahoma.com
This spa is exclusively for men, offering spa and esthetic treatments and products specially adapted for your individual needs.
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2 NEW DOUBLE DECKER BUSES FOR 2012
Fun for everyone! Double Decker & Trolley city tours HOP ON & OFF ALL DAY!
It’s a boat! It’s a bus!
No, it’s Ottawa-Gatineau’s original Amphibus River and Land Adventure!
Ottawa- Gatineau
Walking tours & step on guides available for groups
iNFO@LaDyDivE.COm Kiosk - 613 223-6211 Reservation - 613 524-2221 WWW.LaDyDivE.COm
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ottawa river valley
Rivers, hills & valleys
ManoirPapineauMontebello ©info07.com
Before Ottawa was chosen by Queen Victoria to the be the site of the newly united Dominion of Canada in 1857, the Ottawa River valley and its tributaries was a mostly woodland region, a land of farmers and lumberjacks. Even today, it only takes a half hour to get to the back woods from the downtown, or to discover the picturesque villages founded in the 19th century by the Québec population boom, and by British immigrants. Between Montréal and Gatineau, on the Québec side of the river, a visit to the charming village of Montebello is a definite must. As an old seigniorial home for the Petite-Nation county, it was where patriot leader LouisJoseph Papineau built his mansion after returning from exile in 1846, after the Rebellion of 1837-38. He had already made the first sketches for it while in exile in France, inspired by the chateaux of the Loire valley. The construction itself took three years, from 1847-1850, while the interior decoration was completed gradually by 1859.
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In the Gatineau River valley, which flows from the Upper Laurentians to the Ottawa River, you have to visit the Parc national de la Gatineau that abuts the city. Only a half hour from downtown, the Lac Meech waterfalls have long been a gathering place for the area’s gays. Hop in for a refreshing dip! The Gatineau valley has a host of picturesque villages, like Wakefield, on the river’s western shore where it meets the La Pêche River. Wakefield has gained a reputation as an artists’ colony of sorts, with several bohemian cafés, pubs and galleries. At the Moulin de Wakefield, you’ll find seasonal haute cuisine that has earned many fans. West of Gatineau, the Pontiac region is one of the few regions of Québec that remains mostly English-speaking. In June, local artists gather at the studio of out gay painter Marcio Melo for a studio tour of the area, which is an excellent way to visit the region’s artists in the natural environment that so inspires them.
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ottawa river valley accommodation, restaurants & bars Auberge de Mon Petit Chum B&B 29 chemin Burnside, Wakefield, J0X 3G0
819.459.1814 www.monpetitchum.com
Only 25 minutes from downtown Ottawa, in the heart of Wakefield. Wake up to a gourmet breakfast! Quietly nestled between cafes and boutiques along the Gatineau River. A walk away from the old steam train and endless hiking trails to discover.
Auberge Old Chelsea B/B 213 Old Chelsea Road, Chelsea, J9B 1J3
819.827.0713 info@aubergeoldchelseabandb.ca www.aubergeoldchelsea.ca
Located just 10 minutes by car from Parliament Hill in Ottawa and the city`s main attractions. You have the choice of staying in one of the Inn`s many comfortable rooms, or have a more eclectic experience in the Funky Bunky Cabin, more rustic, but decorated with lively colours.
Auberge & Spa Le Moulin The Wakefield Mill 60 Mill Road,Wakefield, J0X 3G0
888.567.1838 / 819.459.1838 www.wakefieldmill.com info@wakefieldmill.com
Escape to the charm and serenity of the most beautiful Inn & Spa in Canada’s National Capital Region.
Chalet-Condo Lac Cayamant Julie Martel
819.459.1912 / 819.775.5366 www.chaletsauquebec.com/FicheChalet.aspx?IdChalet=7604
Located in the idyllic Gatineau Valley town of Lac Cayamant, just 1.5 hours from Ottawa-Gatineau on the majestic Lac Cayamant, these stunning cottage-condos are the perfect place to get away from it all, any day or night or the week.
Château Logue Hôtel 12 rue Comeau, Maniwaki J9E 2R8
819.449.4848 / 1877 474 4848 www.chateaulogue.com
The Château Logue Hotel & Golf Resort is located on one of the historic sites of Maniwaki, in the heart of the Outaouais region. Offer yourself an unforgettable memory in one of their 51 rooms and suites, superbly furnished and decorated.
Chocomotive 502 rue Notre-Dame, Montebello, J0V 1L0
819 423-5737 www.chocomotive.ca
On top of being an artisanal chocolatier that uses only certified organic and faire trade cocoa, ChocoMotive (which takes its name from its location, in the former train station of Montebello) is almost like a museum that opens its doors to the public to let them discover the masterwork of these chocolatiers.
Domaine Monte-Bello 696, rue Notre-Dame, Montebello, Québec, J0V 1L0
877.420.5096 / 819.423.5096 819.962.5096 www.domainemontebello.com
Surrounded by nature and located in the picturesque village of Montebello, Domaine Monte-Bello feature rooms and spacious condos, meeting rooms and the possibility of cruising on the Ottawa River.
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PLUS QU’UN AUTRE POISSON DANS LA RIVIÈRE RIVIÈRE!!
12 Cadieux, Île du Grand Calumet Québec, J0X1J0 1-866-695-2925 www.horizonx.ca
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ottawa river valley accommodation & S er v i c es Éco-Odyssée 819.459.2551 52, Chemin des Sources, La Pêche www.eco-odyssee.ca J0X 3G0 Adventures of observation and identification of wild water maze. Unique! In the heart of nature, 30 minutes from Ottawa. For all ages. Horizon X Rafting 1.866.695.2925 Cadieux, Île-du-Grand-Calumet, J0X 1J0 www.horizonx.ca Climb into a Maravia Diablo raft for an adventure that is both exciting and safe. Special night time excursions are organised during the full moon. Winner of the Québec Grand Prix of Tourism Award in 2012 for its category. Le Nordik - Spa en nature 819.827.1111 / 1.866.575.3700 16, chemin Nordik, Old Chelsea, Qc www.lenordik.com J9B 2P7 Le Nordik – Nature Spa is a relaxation retreat located in Old Chelsea, a picturesque and friendly town bordering Gatineau Park. With its unique style, the Spa is dedicated to the practice of relaxation techniques from the Scandinavian countries, such as Nordic baths involving hot and cold hydrotherapy. Mont Ste-Marie 1 800 567.1256 76, chemin De la Montagne, Lac Stewww.montstemarie.com Marie J0X 1Z0 Mont Ste-Marie isn’t just a pretty mountain, although it is that too. We also boast the highest vertical in the area. So you can appreciate the scenery as you speed down our slopes. And with a great mix of runs ranging from easy to expert, there is no shortage of ways to get down our mountain. 888.757.2329 / 1.819.623.2329 Pavillon de l’Orignal www.pavillonorignal.qc.ca 162 Chemin de la Baie au Sable, GrandRemous, Qc, J0W 1E0 Nestled in the Baie au Sable, one of the Baskatong Reservoir’s most beautiful coves, the Pavillon is the ideal place to relax and enjoy the beach and nature walks, as well as fishing, raspberry-, blueberry- and mushroom-picking.
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quÊbec city national capital area / Charlevoix / Chaudière-Appalaches
CONTEMPORARY HOTEL / QUÉBEC CITY
ROOMS STARTING AT
& URBANIA OUR HIGH-END LIVING SPACE STARTING AT
/night
double occupancy
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Nous avoNs l’art de dénicher des lieux d’exceptioN
skilled iN the art of fiNdiNg you exception spaces
Les Immeubles Charlevoix helps you find your place in the settings of your dreams.
touRist & CoRPoRate Rentals in old QuébeC City & ChaRlevoix
1 866 435-6868
Real estate bRokeRage old Québec City 418 692-2908 Mont sainte-anne 418 827-5751 baie-saint-Paul 418 435-6221 la Malbaie 418 665-2375
imcha.com
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8 th year of success 7 / 7 open (no exception) 6 months of sunny terrace 5 to 7 (and more) happy hours 4 dozens of tapas to choose from 3 distinctive prizes in 2011 2 new chefs 1 new world_menu
vieux-port, quĂŠbec
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Québec city © MTOQ
The city of Robert Lepage
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uébec City, the national capital of Québec, is truly the birthplace of Québec identity. Established in 1608, it is one of the most ancient colonial towns in North America. New France started as a trade post and quickly grew to populate the surrounding areas and from there on the Côte de Beaupré, then to Île d’Orléans before spreading to the whole Saint Lawrence River Valley.
This ancient city, reminiscent of the Northwest of France from which came its first settlers, is recognised as a UNESCO world heritage centre. Nestled between the Cap Diamant and the banks of the wide river estuary, this European-style city easily charms its visitors. For its 400e anniversary, one of the city’s most renowned and celebrated artists, Robert Lepage, offered the city the now world famous Moulin à images (see cover), a spectacular multimedia show, projected publicly during the summer on the industrial landscape of the Bassin Louise silos, recounting the history of the site and the city. 180 l GQ
17 SAULT-AU-MATELOT VIEUX-PORT, QUÉBEC G1K 3Y7 418 692-1334 WWW.RESTAURANTTOAST.COM
kitchen open 7/ 7 until midnight...
71, RUE SAINT-PAUL VIEUX-PORT, QUÉBEC G1K 3V8
418 692-1991
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It is in Québec City, his hometown, that multidisciplinary artist Lepage decided to found his creation centre, Ex-Machina, which can be found in the historic Old Port district, two steps away from Place Royale. In 1975, at age 17, Lepage entered the Conservatoire d’art dramatique de Québec. In 1985, he created La trilogie des dragons, a piece about Quebec City’s former Chinese district which used to stand along Saint-Vallier Street in the lower town. This particular production brought him international fame. After serving as artistic director for Ottawa’s National Arts Center, Lepage made inroads in the film industry with Le confessional, a film about the quest for identity of a bisexual man, in which Quebec City is prominently featured. For his next film, La Face cachée de la lune, Lepage plays two brothers, a gay man and a university student who’s lost drive. Set in his home town, the story follows their attempt to overcome their mother’s death. 182 l GQ
In 2004, Robert Lepage took centre stage once again, directing KÀ for the Cirque du Soleil. Guy Laliberté, founder of Cirque du Soleil, saw Lepage’s potential to take art direction to a new level. His most recent creation, LipSynch, a 6 hour panorama which focuses on language, was presented in March 2010 in Montréal. or the occasion of Québec City’s 400th anniversary in 2008, one of their preeminent artists, Robert Lepage, created a spectacular outdoor light and sound installation called Le Moulin à images. The history of the city and the industrial site of the Bassin Louise silos was projected onto the silos, drawing crowds from all over the country. In July 2012, his production of The Tempest (music by Thomas Adès, after the Shakespeare play) will be presented by the Opéra de Québec before going on to play at New York’s Metropolitan Opera. His newest multimedia presentation, Fragmentation, is on display at the Montréal Museum of Fine Arts through August, 2012.
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QuĂŠbec City and surounding areas
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C么te-de-Beaupr茅
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DJ Charles Poulin © Myspace
Québec city
Gay life in Québec City
W
hen the gay community began to be visible in the city, it was naturally in the majestic Old city (Vieux-Québec), which attracts locals and tourists alike. Gay life then spread along Saint-Jean street in the Faubourg Saint-Jean-Baptiste, a popular neighbourhood next to the walls of the old city.
In Old Québec City, Hippocampe Sauna & Hotel is probably the oldest gay establishment still running in the Province. Le Drague, a favourite nightclub, has become a true institution even since it opened over 25 years ago. This is how Saint Jean street has become the center of gay life without the creation of a real Village as in Montréal. The Nouvo Saint Roch neighbourhood is another revamped centre of gay life. The old town and old port areas, as well as the Montcalm district, have several gay friendly establishments. In Quebec City, as elsewhere, gays tend to gather in more central neighbourhoods, hotspots of nightlife.
BARS & CLUBS
Bar St-Matthew’s 418.524.5000, 889, côte Ste-Geneviève, Québec, G1R 5M2 Bear nights 1st Sat. of the month; leather nights last Sat. Le Drague 418.649.7212, 815, rue St-Augustin, Québec, G1R 3N4 www.ledrague.com Drag shows presented regularly. Club ForHom / Galerie DomaHom 418.522.4918 , 221, rue Saint-Jean, Québec, G1R 1N8 www.forhom.ca A club for men and adjoining art gallery 186 l GQ
833 rue Saint-Jean Québec (QC) G1R 1R2 Téléphone : (418) 914-3117 http://www.unstyledevie.com
www.facebook.com/unstyledevie www.twitter.com/1styledevie www.youtube.com/user/unstyledevie/videos
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QuĂŠbec Downtown
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Québec city
Québec City cultural capital
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must-see in Québec City’s cultural calendar this summer is the exhibit on gay writer laureate Michel Tremblay (see p.22-23) at the Musée de la civilisation. Artefacts illustrating the playwright’s life and work include photos, excerpts of his novels and plays, soundscapes and music inspired by the author of Les bellessoeurs. Come “meet” the colourful character’s from Tremblay’s world (to Aug 18).
Also at the Musée, you can enjoy the millinery exhibit Chapeau! (to Aug 13, 2012). The exhibit’s 130 pieces show the history of 190 l GQ
the hat in the West. In addition to an exhibit dedicated to French language public broadcaster RadioCanada (to Sept 23), check out the Samouraï exhibit to Jan 27, 2012. The summer’s most hotly anticipated event is by far the arrival of Madonna on the Plains of Abraham, on August 30 for her MDNA tour. From July 5 to 15, the Festival d’été du Québec takes over the city with a wide variety of indoor and outdoor music shows. 2012’s programme features K-OS, Cults, LMFAO and Sarah McLachlan. Though it is less well-known than Montréal’s, Québec City’s Festival de Jazz presents a talent-filled programme Oct 18-28
FROM 7 JUNE TO 3 SEPTEMBER 2012
THE SURREALIST ADVENTURES OF WOMEN A R T I S T S I N M E X I C O A N D T H E U N I T E D S TAT E S
PARC DES CHAMPS-DE-BATAILLE QUÉBEC (QUÉBEC) G1R 5H3 WWW.MNBA.QC.CA
THIS EXHIBITION WAS ORGANIZED BY THE LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART (LACMA) AND THE MUSEO DE ARTE MODERNO (MAM), MEXICO. IT WAS MADE POSSIBLE THROUGH A GENEROUS GRANT FROM THE TERRA FOUNDATION FOR AMERICAN ART. THE ORGANIZERS ARE GRATEFUL FOR THE SPECIAL COLLABORATION OF THE NATIONAL COUNCIL FOR CULTURE AND THE ARTS (CONACULTA) AND NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FINE ARTS (INBA), MEXICO. ROSA ROLANDA, AUTORRETRATO (SELF-PORTRAIT), 1945. GOUACHE ON PAPER, 40 X 33 CM. COLECCIÓN BLAISTEN.
Heritage and contemporary visual arts www.culture-patrimoine-deschambault-grondines.ca
Jacynthe Carrier
Only 30 minutes from Québec City COME LIVE A TOTALLY UNIQUE EXPERIENCE !
246, 5e Avenue Saint-Gabriel-deValcartier Québec G0A 4S0 418 520-7238
RAFTING, HYDROSPEED, KAYAK TRAINING ENJOY OUR AWESOME “AFTER-RAFT” EVENTS JOIN US THIS SUMMER ! www.newwaveexpeditions.com info@expeditionsnouvellevague.com
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Québec city
cultural Capital Thérèse et Pierrette à l’école des Saints-Anges de Michel Tremblay © Théâtre du Trident
Grand Théâtre de Québec 269, boulevard René-Lévesque Est Québec G1R 2B3
1.877.643.8131 www.grandtheatre.qc.ca
The Tempest, an opera inspired by Shakespeare’s play, and directed by Robert Lepage, from July 26 to Aug 1.
Palais Montcalm 995, place D’Youville Québec G1R 3P1
418.641.6220 www.palaismontcalm.ca
A live music venue for every style and genre, from classic to electro. The acoustics at the Raoul-Joubin concert hall are known for being exceptional.
Théâtre La Bordée 315, rue Saint-Joseph Est Québec G1K 3B3
418.694.9721 www.bordee.qc.ca
French language theatre. Upcoming shows: Félicité, by Olivier Choinière, and Ionesco’s absurdist Les chaises, directed by Bertrand Alain.
Théâtre Périscope 939, avenue de Salaberry Québec G1R 2V2
418.648.9989 www.theatreperiscope.qc.ca
Cutting-edge French language theatre. In June, Montréal-born bilingual actor Rick Miler presents Rick Miller: Vendu and Wajdi Mouawad’s Seuls.
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cultural Capital
Exposition Chapeau! © www.magazineprestige.com
Musée de la civilisation 85, rue Dalhousie Québec G1K 7A6
418.643.2158 www.mcq.org
Not to be missed: an exhibit dedicated to the world of author laureate Michel Tremblay Until August 13, 2012.
Musée national des beaux-arts Parc des Champs-de-Bataille Québec G1R 5H3
418.643.2150 www.mnba.qc.ca
From June 7 – Sept 3, an important exhibition of women surrealist artists from the US and Mexico. Includes works by Frida Kahlo.
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shops, activities and place of interest Bibi & Cie 42, Rue Garneau, Vieux Québec, G1R 3V5
418.694.0045 www.bibietcompagnie.com
To find that perfect hat you’ve always wanted, there’s only one place: Bibi & Cie in Old Québec. In addition to furs, scarves and gloves, the store boasts a selection of over 3000 hats!
Expéditions Nouvelle Vague 246, 5ième Avenue, Saint Gabriel de Valcartier, G0A 4S0
418.520.7238 / 418.844.3674 info@expeditionsnouvellevague.com www.expeditionsnouvellevague.com
With their dynamic and safety-aware staff, and superb setting. you’ll be talking about the white water rafting at Nouvelle Vague for years to come.
Un style de vie 833, rue Saint-Jean, Québec, G1R 1R2
418.914.3117 www.unstyledevie.com
Your eyes will no doubt be drawn to this chic new boutique, which sells a variety of sexy underwear and swimwear.
Site traditionnel huron 575, rue Chef Stanislas Koska Wendake, G0A 4V0
418.842.4308 www.huron-wendt.qc.ca
Situé à 15 minutes au nord de Québec, le site, authentique reconstitution d’un village indien au Québec, est l’occasion unique de découvrir l’histoire, la culture et le mode de vie des Hurons d’hier et d’aujourd’hui . Ouvert toute l’année, il est préférable de réserver.
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Accommodation Auberge Place d’Armes 24, rue Sainte-Anne Québec, G1R 3X3
418.694.9485 / 1.866.333.9485 www.aubergeplacedarmes.com
This charming inn occupies two elegant period houses, one of which belonged to PierreOlivier Chavreau, a 19th century Premier. Chosen by National Geographic (2009) as one of the top 129 best places to stay in North America.
Château Bonne Entente 3400, chemin Sainte-Foy Québec, G1X 1S6
1.800.463.4390 www.chateaubonneentente.com
After 50 years in the hospitality industry, this 5-star hotel has always remained avantgarde. With distinctive rooms and suites, you will be charmed by their exceptional property, framed by peaceful gardens and waterfalls.
Comfort Inn Sainte-Foy
www.choicehotels.ca 7320, boulevard Wilfrid-Hamel, Ste-Foy, G2G 1C1 Only 5 kms from Jean-Lesage international Airport and close to all major points of interest.
Gîte au chant de la rivière 252 Chemin Redmond, St-Gabriel-DeValcartier, G0A 4S0
418.844.3280 www.giteauchantdelariviere.com
Nestled along the Jacques-Cartier River less than 30 minutes from downtown Québec, you’re all that’s missing at this 4-bedroom Scandinavian log cabin with outdoor spa. Breakfast included with overnight stays.
Gîte Confort 30, rue Audubon Québec, G2M 1A3
418.849.0613 / 1.855.849.0613 www.giteconfort.com
This newly opened bed & breakfast is only 15 minutes from downtown Québec City. Its three colourful comfy rooms and friendly hosts will help you make the most of your stay.
Gîte du Parc 345, rue Fraser, Québec, G1S 1R2
418 683-8603 / 1888 683-8603 www.giteduparc.com
This comfortable and relaxing Inn is located in a beautiful one-hundred year old house, close to the Plains of Abraham.
Gîte Monique et André Saint-Aubin 3045, de la Seine, Québec, H7W 5E2
418.658.0685 www.gitesaintaubin.com
In a perfect combination of calm and comfort, your host will be glad to meet all your needs and inform you on the best attractions and activities around.
Gîte Saint-Aubin 3045 de la Seine, Québec, G1W 1H8 Grand Times Hotel 5100, boulevard des Galeries Québec, G2K 2M1
418.658.0685 www.gitesaintaubin.com 1.888.902.5555 www.timeshotel.ca
This elegant and spacious hotel in the middle of a concrete jungle is located in the city`s business district. The Grand Times features an indoor pool, a gym and a business centre. 198 l GQ
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Accommodation Hotel Ambassadeur 3401, boulevard Sainte-Anne Québec, G1E 3L4
418.666.2828 / 1.800.363.4619 www.hotelambassadeur.ca
A gorgeous view of Québec City and the Battures de Beauport bay, with a spa located inside an atrium… take a moment of well-deserved rest and relaxation at this welcoming hotel.
Hôtel Champlain 115 rue Ste-Anne, Québec, G1R 3X6
418.694.0106 / 1.800.567.2106 www.champlainhotel.com
Let yourself unwind in this comfortable and friendly hotel, located in gorgeous OldQuébec, just steps away from the city`s main tourist attractions.
Hôtel La Citadelle 4800 boulevard Wilfrid-Hamel, Québec, G1P 2J9
418.871.3938 / 1.866.871.3938 www.hotelcitadelle.com info@hotelcitadelle.com
Comfort and warmth: the Citadelle will charm you with its 36 personalised rooms!
L’Auberge du Quartier 170, Grande Allée Ouest, Québec, G0C 1V0
1.800.782.9441
15 minute walk from the Old City, the Grand Théâtre, the Convention Center, the Québec Parliamentary Hill and from most government buildings.
Le Coureur des Bois 15, rue Sainte-Ursule, Québec, G1R 4C7
418.692.1117 / 1.800.269.6414 lecoureurdesboisquebec@gmail.com
Recently renovated, the rooms are furnished for maximum comfort.
Les Immeubles Charlevoix 179, rue Saint-Paul, Québec,G1K 3W2
418.692.2908 / 1.866.435.6868 www.imcha.com
Les Immeubles Charlevoix specializes in accommodations by and near tourist attractions for the discerning visitor. Their growing international clientele enjoys the quality and personalized service, as well as the unique properties available in Old Québec, Lac Beauport, Stoneham, and Charlevoix.
Le Port-Royal 144, rue Saint-Pierre,Québec, G1K 8N8
418.692.2777 / 1.866.417.2777 www.leportroyal.com
Come enjoy the historic Port Royal experience in a comfortable and spacious suite at the Port Royal Hotel & Suites. The fin-de-siècle architecture and modern décor give this hide-away a special flair. A concept of refined hospitality for the discerning traveler.
Le Saint-Gabriel, Hôtel Champêtre 1825, Boul. Valcartier, Saint-Gabriel de Valcartier, Qc G0A 4S0
418.844.9740 / 1.888.303.3621 www.hotel-le-st-gabriel.com
The Saint-Gabriel hotel is an old wood mill located 20 minutes outside of Québec in the “green crescent” of the Jacques-Cartier region. Surrounded by the village’s 4 clock towers, it’s the ideal starting point for an outdoor adventure. Auberge La Bastide 418.337.3976 577, rue Saint-Joseph www.bastide.ca Saint-Raymond, G0A 2J0 Authentically decorated in the style of this 100 year-old village. Add a gourmet touch to your stay by trying their creative cuisine. 200 l GQ
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Québec city gastronomical Capital
© Arnaud Baty
In the footsteps of Serge Bruyère
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s a capital city and popular tourist destination, Québec City is home to a host of gourmet restaurants. The grand culinary tradition to be sampled here owes many of its qualities to the late Serge Bruyère, a precursor of “nouvelle cuisine” and one of very few Franco-Canadians to make it into the canonical Larousse gastronomique.
After apprenticing with Paul Bocuse and the Troisgros brothers, Jean and Pierre, Bruyère emigrated from France in 1976 and opened his first restaurant in Québec City in 1980. By 1988, an American guidebook had rated his restaurant the best in the world that year. His real skill was in creating a fusion of French nouvelle cuisine with Québec’s local and regional foods. In 1994, Bruyère left this world long before his time, leaving behind his true legacy, a team of apprentices who would go on to become some of Québec’s greatest chefs. 202 l GQ
reinvented
The experience of flavour
2115, rang Saint-Ange Québec (Québec) G2G 0E8 418 872-4386 info@restaurantlataniere.com www.restaurantlataniere.com
Cuisine Service Décor
Follow us on:
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50
vins au verre By the glass Wines
Every wednesday evenings sans fausse note, émaillé de surprises à vous jeter «enUnbasrepas de votre chaise, digne des plus grands restos de la ville – ambiance décontractée en prime.
»
Sophie Marcotte, Restos Voir - 1 décembre 2011
2.5 hours free interior parking 204 l GQ
aviatic.ca
LOCAL TRILOGIES
SEASONAL GAMES FRESH FISHES FOIE GRAS
IN THE HEART OF OLD QUÉBEC, NEAR THE SAINT-JEAN GATE
17 SAINT-STANISLAS STREET, QUÉBEC (QUÉBEC) G1R 4G7 418 692-5488 | LEPATRIARCHE.COM GQ l 205
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Restaurants Aviatic 418.522.3555 450, rue de la Gare du Palais www.aviatic.ca Québec G1K 7R1 Once a simple pub, this restaurant located in the majestic Gare du Palais offers delicious Asian-inspired creations. The wine list is sure to please those with even the finest of palettes. Largo Jazz et Grill 643, rue Saint-Joseph Est Québec, G1K 3C1
418.529.3111 www.largorestoclub.ca
Established in the Saint-Roch district since 2004, this restaurant has become a staple of Jazz aficionados in Québec City, offering three concerts a week, often featuring local artists. At the same time, enjoy their simple, yet delicious dishes. La Crémaillère 73, rue Saint-Anne, Québec G1R 3X4
418.692.2216 www.cremaillere.qc.ca
This classic European-style restaurant has won countless hospitality awards over its 35 year history, serving refined French and Italian inspired cuisine to patrons from all over the world. Le 48 Saint-Paul 48, rue Saint-Paul, Québec, G1K 4A6
418.694.4448 www.le48.ca
Offering up a musical ambiance inspired by world beats and international cuisine that is flavourful, refined and very accessible, this establishment aims to give you a complete sensory experience with a decor inspired by the Cirque du Soleil. Paillard 418.692.1221 1097 Rue St-Jean, Québec, Qc www.paillard.ca G1R 1S3 This unparalleled bakery and gelateria is the ultimate place to enjoy a pastries, sandwiches and tasty morsels on a long refectory-style table, giving the gourmet locale a hip, New York feel with a European twist. Restaurant Le Marie Clarisse 418.692.0857 12, Petit Champlain, Vieux Québec, Qc www.marieclarisse.qc.ca G1K 4H5 With its 340 year-old walls, nestled in North America’s oldest commercial district, the “Quartier Petit Champlain”, Le Marie-Clarisse offers a fine dining experience of market-fresh fish and seafood, and delectable meat dishes, including their succulent fillet mignon. Restaurant La Tanière 418.872.4386 2115, rang Saint-Ange, Québec, G2G 0E8 www.restaurantlataniere.com This renowned and trendy restaurant keeps things fresh, serving up local cuisine while at the same time integrating elements of international cuisine. With friendly service and an inviting atmosphere, you’ll also be happy to know that the owners have gone out of their way to reduce their carbon footprint.
Restaurant Le Patriarche 17, rue St-Stanislas, Québec, G1R 4G7
418.692.1991 www.restaurantsss.com
The hip lounge and cosy restaurant at Simple Snack Sympathiqueand offers 2 distinct atmospheres for enjoying cocktails and hip music, or savouring a great meal in front of a working fireplace. 206 l GQ
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Restaurants Restaurant SSS 71, rue Saint-Paul Québec City, G1K 3V8
418.692.5488 www.lepatriarche.com
Tucked away in the heart of Old Québec City, this sophisticated restaurant serves creative and scruptious dinner fare in the intimacy of an 1827 stone building. Chef Stéphane Roth’s regionally inspired dishes combine 3 elements in his “local trilogies” with passion and exceptional taste.
Restaurant Toast! 17, rue du Sault au Matelot Québec, G1K 3Y7
418.692.1334 www.restauranttoast.com
Enjoy international fusion cuisine in a modern but cosy atmosphere. The interior courtyard boasts a heated patio and garden open all summer long.
Tuscanos 1445, avenue Jules-Verne (angle Duplessis) Québec, G2G 2R8
www.tuscanosquebec.com
In a warm and welcoming atmosphere, Tuscanos has become famous for its diverse and genuine Italian cuisine, with a selection of pastas, pizzas, veal, salads, grilled meat and seafood with divine home-made sauces and a selection of more than 100 desserts. Spacious free parking.
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Portneuf - Jacques-cartier
ile d’orleans © flowercat
Québec City & surroundings
Nature’s Abundance
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ocated at the opening of the St. Lawrence Estuary, where the river opens up to become a wide sea way, Québec City’s surrounding areas are characterized by natural abundance and some of North America’s oldest agricultural land. It was along the Côte de Beaupré and on the Île d’Orléans that the earliest settlers took root some 375 years ago, in what became the breadbasket of New France. In the foothills of the Côte de Beaupré, visitors won’t want to miss the Montmorency Falls nature park, which hosts the summer fireworks display les Grands Feux Loto-Québec. West of Québec City, several small villages of the Portneuf district dot the Chemin du Roy (the King’s Road), the first 210 l GQ
land route in Canada, which dates to the 18th Century. There’s nothing like being here in harvest season, when the region becomes a cornucopia of local produce. North of the Capital Region, the rolling hills of Laurentian Mountains gradually meet the estuary the closer you get to Charlevoix. The Laurentians offer an array of ski hills and year-round outdoor activities, such as the very popular Mont Sainte-Anne. West of the Capital, Jacques Cartier National Park offers a spectacular backdrop to any outdoor adventure. In addition to nature’s abundance, the region boasts a large number of gay-friendly establishments and lodgings of all types.
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Côte-de-beaupré - ïle d’orléans Manoir Mauvide-Genest © pylacroix, Flickr
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he île d’Orléans is often considered the heartland of Québec, the nostalgic centre of this proud culture, for its beautiful scenery and rich history. The 300 families who were the earliest settlers in French North America emanated from this picturesque stretch of land in the St. Lawrence River.
ric Maison Drouin, where you can see how the inhabitants of New France lived in the 18th century. At the Manoir Mauvide-Genest, which dates to 1734 and was built by a dentist-cum-nobleman from the reign of Louis XV, you can visit the site with guides in traditional period costume.
The earliest vestiges of the seigneurial system, which immitated the landowning nobility and almost feudal peasantry from the Régime of the 17th and 18th century France. The only remaining manor on the island that has remained entirely unrenovated is the histo-
Nature-lovers and adventurers will want to explore the Île d’Orléans on foot or by bicycle to really experience the island’s charms. The Saint-Laurent gold course affords a spectacular view of the seaway and Laurentian Mountains.
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Gîte
Au Toit Bleu
3879, Chemin Royal Ste-famille, Île d’Orléans (Québec) Canada G0A 3P0 Tel: 418-829-1078
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Portneuf - Jacques-cartier Accommodation Le Gîte au toit bleu 418.829.1078 3879, avenue Royale, Sainte-Famille, www.autoitbleu.com G0A 3P0 Your hostesses, experienced travellers Loulou and Iris, will ensure that you have an unforgettable stay in one of their five colourfully decorated rooms in their 100-year old home located on the beautiful île d’Orléans. Au chalet en bois rond 418.329.1233 / 1.877.629.1233 325, rang St-Jacques, Sainte-Christine www.auchaletenboisrond d’Auvergne, G0A 1A0 info@auchaletenboisrond.com In this village, located near Portneuf, you have the choice of 35 round wood cabins. On a river or a lake, you will find yourself surrounded by nature, with a property of 42 000 square feet at your disposition. Culture et Patrimoine Deschambault418.286.6891 Grondines www.culture-patrimoine117, rue Saint-Joseph deschambault-grondines.ca Deschambault-Grondines, G0A 1S0 This organization works to preserve craftsmanship (such a iron smithery and woodworking) as well as heritage buildings, highlighting the importance of preserving the heritage of our ancestors and creating the heritage of tomorrow. Gîte du Hibou 418.802.7430 / 418.848.6372 (F) 482, Chemin du Hibou, Stoneham-etgiteduhibou@hotmail.com Tewkesbury G3C 1S7 www.giteduhibou.com Just 20 minutes from Québec City, for a romantic getaway or a group trip, this Inn offers a warm and welcoming atmosphere, surrounded by nature, and close to the ski slopes. Manoir du Lac Sept-Îles 418.337.8893 3679, chemin du Lac-Saint-ïles Saint-Raymond, G3L 2S3 The Manoir is the perfect refuge for couples and nature-lovers. Suites, standard rooms, and cottages with spa and boat access available. The acclaimed restaurant is presided over by Chef G. Bouquet and maitre d’ V. Caron. La Jeanne Claire, Couette & Café 418.848.3093 303, 5e Avenue, Saint-Gabriel de www.lajeanneclaire.com Valcartier, G0A 4S0 A lovel and peaceful haven for all season: nature and quietude on the shores of the Jaques-Cartier River, 45 km away from Québec City. With two fully-equipped and carefully designed rooms, yout hostess Marie-Claude will welcome you with a smile.
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Côte-de-beaupré - ïle d’orléans Chalets-Village Mont Sainte-Anne 418.826.3331 / 1.800.461.2030 1815, Boul. les Neiges, Saint-Ferréol-leswww.chalets-village.com Neiges Québec, G0A 3R0 15 charming country houses for short term rental. Fully-equipped houses at the foot of Mont-Sainte-Anne and lots of winter and summer sports and activities. Au Gîte de la Chute
418.822.3789 / 1.855.822.3789 www.quebecweb.com/gitedelachute A mere 15 minutes from Old Québec City, and only 5 minutes from the famous Montmorency Waterfalls, this certified B&B has 4 delightful guest rooms and boasts a generous breakfast.
5143, avenue Royale, Boischatel, QC, G0A 1H0
Motel et Condo Chez Charley 418.827.5837 / 1.888.564.2663 9650, boul. Sainte-Anne, www.motelcondocharley.com Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré, G0A 3C0 Located on the shore of the St. Lawrence River, a few km from ski resorts, motel or as condominiums lodging accommodating 2 to 8 persons.
eanne-Claire La Jcouette et café (B&B) 216 l GQ
303, 5e avenue Saint-Gabriel de Valcartier (Québec)Canada G0A 4S0 418 848-3093
www.jeanneclaire.com
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Lévis Lévis © KimonBerlin
Lévis Across the river
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ocated on the other side of Québec City on the southern shore of the Saint-Lawrence, with over 137,000 inhabitants, the City of Lévis is the largest agglomeration in the Chaudière-Appalaches region. You can get there from Québec City by crossing either the Pierre-Laporte or Québec Bridge, or by taking the ferry that links the Old Port of Québec to Old-Lévis. It is worth crossing the river to get to Lévis, if only for the stunning views of the national capital.
In the past, Lévis has proven to be of strategic importance in the defense of Canada. After having sieged Québec City from Lévis in 1759, the British understood the strategic importance of its location at the mouth of the SaintLawrence River. They built three forts to protect it from 1865-1872, one of which, the “Fort Number218 l GQ
One”, is still around today. Pentagon-shaped, it is the last remaining of the many forts that were built to protect Québec City from a possible American invasion. Well-known for its naval shipyards, Lévis is also the home of Québec’s largest financial institution, Desjardins. You can visit the Maison Alphonse-Desjardins in Old-Lévis, where the founder of this powerful cooperative institution lived and where he started his first credit union. While walking the streets of this historic neighbourhood, one captures the feel of a small prosperous village of the Québec countryside. Just outside the city, you will not want to miss the magnificent waterfalls at the Parc des Chutesde-la- Chaudière, very popular amongst the local gay community..
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Chaudière-Appalaches Tours Martello © Guillaume Cattiaux
On the South Shore
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n the south shore of the St. Lawrence from Québec City, the Chaudière-Appalaches region is like a transitional space between the river valley and the salty sea waters that start at the almost mythic Ile d’Orléans. This riverside country is dotted with centuriesold houses, many of which are still standing since the era of New France, in the 18th Century. As such, you’re find some of the country’s most beautiful villages in clusters along the 200 km of river shore, making it like one giant garden facing the Capital. The Chaudière River, which is half the namesake of the region, slices through the Beauce district and empties into the St Lawrence at Lévis. On its southern border, near the State of Maine, the peaks of the Appalachian Mountains create stunning reliefs in Thetford, Labotiniere, Etchemins, Bellechasse and the Côte-du-Sud (southern slope) area. It’s a natural playground, with bicycle trails lining the fertile valley, and a mecca for bird-watching, as well as maple sugar shacks, come March. Upriver from Québec City, lies the Lotbinière district, where seigneurial estates and mansions have long characterized the countryside, which remains bucolic, with beautifully preserved architectural remnants of bygone eras. Lotbinière and Saint-Antoine-de-Tilly are two hamlets that literally belong to an association of Québec’s most beautiful villages. The renowned Domaine Joly-De Lotbinière is a gigantic horticultural park, maintained since the 19th century by the Lotbinière dynasty. Know as one of North America’s most stunning gardens, the site is a natural attraction without parallel. In nearby Joly, naturists find their own version of paradise at the Domaine de 220 l GQ
l’arc en ciel, the only gay-oriented camp ground in the Capital area. The campground is easily accessed via Highway 20 (Autoroute 20). On your way, we recommend a stop at the Carrefour de Tilly, where Justin and Antonin host hungry travellers at their bistro in pastoral SaintAntoine-de-Tilly. Further south, the legendary region of the Beauce is one of Québec’s proudest and most independent, with more than a few business in its stable. We might attribute the existence of two gay bars in Saint-Georges-de-Beauce to this region´s entrepreneurial spirit. In spite of their proximity to Québec, this town´s gays scene would be envy of other towns its size. Further east, for those who appreciate wood carvings, making a stop by Saint-Jean-Port-Joli, renowned for its woodworking, is a must. Isle Aux Grues is a stunning set of islands in the St Lawrence, and is part of Grosse-Ile National Park. For much of the last century and before, Grosse-Ile was a quarantine station for immigration into Canada (much like Ellis Island, in New York), and nowadays guides reenact historic figures from the island’s past. Hundreds of thousands of immigrants came to Canada via Grosse-Ile in the 19th century, with records of over 6,000 deaths, many of which were Famine Irish. The massive influx of Irish immigrants in this era explains why so many Québeckers have Irish last names, even though they may not speak a word of English! Largest cities : Lévis (pop. 136 000), Saint-Georges (pop. 32 000), Thetford Mines (pop. 26 000).
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Chaudière-Appalaches Accommodation & Restaurants
Auberge Artistique 6104, Saint-Georges, G6V 4J8, Lévis
418.837.9619 info@aubergeartistique.com
L’Auberge Artistique and its old-style charm offer you a cosy space, four spacious rooms with a warm decoration where reigns contemporary art.
Domaine de l’Arc-en-Ciel 1878, 5e rang Ouest, Joly, Autoroute 20 sortie 266, G0S 1M0
418.728.5522 www.dom-aec.com
Come discover this charming location with wooden trails, a natural island, a naturist zone, a bar, dance-hall and olympic swimming pool. Outdoor camping OPEN LATE APRIL to end of Sept.
La Plage 195, Blais Est, Berthier-sur-Mer
418.259.7514 / 1.866.559.7514
This motel-restaurant named “The beach” in French, is the perfect place to stay when visiting Berthier-sur-mer, a town known by those who love sailing. Open in the winter from Thursday to Sunday.
Maison Lauriault 3909 chemin de Tilly, St-Antoine-deTilly QC
418.886.4381 www.maisonlauriault.com info@maisonlauriault.com
Heritage House (1804) in the heart of the village of Saint-Antoine-de-Tilly (1702) 20 minutes from Quebec city.
Motel Lévis 8520, boulevard de la Rive Sud Lévis, G6V 8V7
418.837.6667 www.motellevis.co
Welcoming travellers since 1955, this establishment has preserved its original charm. Take advantage of this motel’s convenient location, just steps from a park with a belvedere where you can enjoy breathtaking views of the Saint-Lawrence River, Île d’Orléans and the Montmorency waterfalls.
Passions gourmandes 850, chemin des Sucriers Sainte-Marie, G6E 3N4
418.387.4478 www.passionsgourmandes.com
For all your private events (accommodating 10 to 100). Enjoy the best of local cuisine, prepared by passionate chefs, and attentive service in a private dining room with cathedral ceiling.
Villégiature et Pourvoirie Daaquam 47, rue des moulins, Saint-Just-deBretenières, Qc G0R 3H0
418.244.3442 / 1.888.558.3442 www.daaquam.qc.ca
A fresh air paradise in the middle of the Parc régional des Appalaches, Daaquam sets a new standard for authenticity and friendly service. With its 7 rental cottages and 4-star B&B, you can enjoy year-round get-aways for relaxation, adventure, fishing, hunting and hiking.
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Chaudière-Appalaches
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Charlevoix
Les Moulins de L’Isle-aux-Coudres © Tourisme Charlevoix
Scenic Charlevoix
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or two centuries now, the Charlevoix has welcomed summer vacationers from around the globe to admire the beauty of its scenery. Just under an hour’s drive east of Québec City, discover its exceptional natural sites and unique attractions, contemplate the endless beauty of its mountain and river landscapes, immerse yourself in art and culture, savour celebrated regional fare and take in traditional warm and friendly hospitality. No wonder the region counts on a significant number of gay-friendly accommodations. A favorite of Canada’s Group of Seven painters, the birthplace of the celebrated Cirque du Soleil, and a heritage town with over 85 century224 l GQ
old homes, Baie-Saint-Paul is nestled in a valley that still draws artists to this day. Take a walk along its many narrow streets lined with charming boutiques and art galleries—it’s a great way to discover and fully enjoy one of Québec’s oldest municipalities. The River Drive area runs some fifty kilometers from Baie-Saint-Paul to La Malbaie, winding along the majestic St. Lawrence River in a procession of breathtaking views. It includes Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive, a historic municipality known for its maritime heritage, where visitors can take a free ferry ride to Isle-aux-Coudres. The area also comprises the lovely villages of Les Éboulements and Saint-Irénée.
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Charlevoix
Parc national des Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie © Tourisme Charlevoix
Discovered in 1535 by Jacques Cartier, Isle-aux-Coudres has a fascinating sea-faring history. Today, the proverbial hospitality of the “Marsoins,” as the locals are affectionately known, is as warm as ever, and vacationers are always happily greeted with a smile. Isle-aux-Coudres is accessible via a free fifteen-minute ferry ride from Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive. With over 1,100 rooms and 35 first-rate lodging establishments, La Malbaie is the main town and tourist destination of Charlevoix. Home of the impressive Manoir Richelieu
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overviewing the St-Lawrence, with its casino, no wonder why! From romantic inns and quaint, cozy B & Bs to luxury hotels with outdoor pools and spas, here lovers are sure to find the perfect setting for romance. Restaurants boast gorgeous riverside views and whet your appetite with tantalizing gastronomic menus featuring flavours so typical of Charlevoix - cheeses, duck foie gras, smoked salmon, emu medallions and other regional fare are all prepared by reputed chefs, to tempt your taste.
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Charlevoix
Accommodation Auberge Beauséjour 569, chemin du Quai, Saint-Josephde-la-Rive, G0A 3Y0
1.800.265.2895 www.aubergebeausejour.com
Well nested in one of the most beautiful villages of Québec. You will feel at home.
Auberge de la Rive 280, chemin de l’Église Saint-Joseph-de-la-Rive, GOA 3YO
1.888.935.2846 www.aubergedelarive.net
Discover the Charlevoix region on bicycle and make this charming Inn your base with rooms decorated with country charm. Enjoy their cuisine in their dining room or their patio overlooking the St-Laurence River.
Boulangerie La Main Blanche 24, rue Leblanc Baie-Saint-Paul G3Z 1W9
418.240.2220 www.lamainblanche.ca
Pastries and fresh bread make this bakery the ideal place for breakfast and to savour local confections. Stay for a coffee and croissant, or bring home one of their superb cakes.
Crêperie Le Passe Temps 245, Boul. de Comporté, La Malbaie, Qc G0T 1M0
418.665.7660 www.creperielepassetemps.com
The cosy atmosphere of this 1820’s building is the perfect setting to enjoy delicious crêpes and fondues, as well as high-quality table d’hôte offerings. The only challenge is what to choose!
Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu 181, rue Richelieu, La Malbaie, Qc G5A 1X7
1 (888) 610 7575 / (418) 665-3703 manoirrichelieu@fairmont.com www.fairmont.com
Nestled majestically between the sea and the mountains, the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu Quebec Resort in Charlevoix is a vision of historical splendor. Rich in tradition, this exquisite paragon of hospitality blends the quiet charm of the countryside with the sophistication of a world-class resort.
Gîte Richelieu 555 rue Richelieu, La Malbaie Qc G5A 2X4
Tel.: 418.620.0532 www.gitelerichelieu.com dseguin@gitelerichelieu.com
Le Richelieu Bed & Breakfast, built in 1917, is a former presbytery that has been meticulously and respectfully restored.Three history filled, well appointed rooms, are available, all with private bathroom facilities! A public living area, an inviting dining area with private tables, and a lovingly restored gallery compliment this wonderful home
Gîte les Colibris 80, rue Sainte-Anne, Baie St-Paul, G3Z 1P3
1.888.508.4483 / 418.240.2222 charlevoix.net/lescolibris colibris@charlevoix.net
Centrally located near all services and activities.
Gîte Terreciel 113, rue Sainte-Anne, Baie-Saint-Paul, Québec, G3Z 1N9
418.435.0149, www.terreciel.ca/gite/
Inviting century home on the edge of the rivière du Gouffre, just steps from the beach, wharf, best restaurants, art galleries and museums. The B&B offer spacious rooms with private bathroom free parking, Wi-Fi connection and more.
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Charlevoix
Accommodation Katabatik - Aventure dans Charlevoix 210, rue Sainte-Anne Baie-Saint-Paul, G3Z 1P8
1.800.453.4850 www.katabatik.ca
Amateurs of the great outdoors will have a tough time choosing what to do in this region with the many different packages offered by this agency. Sporting and ecotourist activities await you: cycling, kayaking, paragliding…
La Maison Vert-Tige 125, rue St-Raphaël, La Malbaie, G5A 2N6
418.665.5628 maisonvert-tige.com adm@maisonvert-tige.com
Spacious all equipped condos. Charm and intimacy.
Le Petit Félix 160, rue du Quai La Malbaie, G5A 2Y1
418.202.0858 / 418.665.5435 www.gitescanada.com/lepetitfelix
Miguel and Yves are your hosts at this quaint home with a surplus of charm. Generous breakfasts are served on the patio with a stunning view of the river; massage therapy available on site.
Le Sablon Charlevoix Groupe Omégalpha Inc.
450.754.1551 / 1-888-754-1551 www.sabloncharlevoix.com
Seven luxurious cedar-shingled chalets overlooking the St. Lawrence River at the foot of scenic mountains await you at St-Irénée’s Sablon resort.
Mouton Noir 43, rue Sainte-Anne Baie-Saint-Paul, G3Z 1N9
418.240.3030 www.moutonnoirresto.com
Baie-Saint-Paul native Emannuelle, your hostess, and chef Thierry Ferré, who hails from Brittany, serve bistro-style French cuisine infused with local flavour.
Restaurant le Saint-Pub 2, rue Racine, Baie-Saint-Paul, G3Z 2P8
418.240.2332 www.saint-pub.com
The restaurant of the Charlevoix microbrewery offers refined bistro cuisine accompanied by a selection of beers brewed onsite.
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Mauricie /Central QuĂŠbec
Trois-Rivières Downtown of Trois-Rivières © MTOQ_Turgeon, Linda
Between industry
S
ituated half-way between Montréal and Québec, the Mauricie region is the second oldest area of European settlement in New France. Founded in 1634 as the first incorporated town in Québec, Trois-Rivières celebrated its 375th anniversary in 2009. Formerly a major centre of the pulp and paper industries, the town of Laviolette has successfully revitalised its downtown core and Old Trois-Rivières in recent years. But Trois-Rivières isn’t purely of historical interest: there are also the bustling bars, cafés and clubs on the rue des Forges and the rue Royale where restaurant and bar patios 234 l GQ
spill out onto the street. History buffs can also visit the rue des Ursulines, and trace the origins of one of Québec’s oldest towns. In early summer, the FestiVoix brings out numerous singer-songwriters for an array of outdoor music shows. The highlight of the riverside city’s cultural year by far is the famed Festival international de poésie, which is a magnet for gay and lesbian literary souls who gather to hear poets from around the world read and share their work. Also in Trois-Rivières, the Musée québécois de culture populaire (Mu-
Mauricie Cité de l’Énergie © Yvan Cossette, Picasa
& poetry
seum of Québec pop culture) presents six unconventional and fun exhibits which will allow you to discover the diversity of Québec culture. Another attraction not to miss: the Forges-du-Saint-Maurice. Located about 20 minutes from downtown Trois-Rivières, this historic site commemorates Canada’s first iron industry, which was in operation since the 18th century. The many wellpreserved archaeological remains let you travel back in time to the birth and evolution of the country’s earliest forges.
In Shawinigan, the first destination we suggest is la Cité de l’énergie, a science-and-technology complex based around the theme of energy. You can check out the hydroelectric plants, interactive exhibits, multimedia presentations and fascinating scientific demos. It’s the ultimate place to discover the marvels of electricity, pulp & paper, aluminum and electrochemical technologies. Experts show you experiments on magnetic levitation and hydrogen power. Take a moment to climb to the second highest observation tower in Québec to enjoy the spectacular view.
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mauricie © Kcraam
Mauricie
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nd we could hardly talk about travel in Mauricie without mentioning La Mauricie National Park, which covers 536 square km of forests and lakes stretching into the distance - a feast for the eyes. This is an ideal spot either for leisurely strolls or for keeping in shape with long hikes, as well as sunny picnics, fishing and camping. The Mauricie region is known for its tremendous fishing culture, and every winter the ice-fishers come out in droves for La Pérade à Ste-Anne, where the coveted “poulamon” or river chad is on the menu. No better occasion than this to visit the Auberge du temps Inn, an 18th century manse where chefs Serge and René serve up traditional local cuisine with a modern twist. They specialize in fusing local ingredients with the gusto 236 l GQ
of international haute cuisine. The inn’s four magnificent guest rooms are carefully appointed with period antiques and décor, to further instill the true relaxation of a well-deserved escape. While recent decades have seen the development of a gay and lesbian community in Trois-Rivières, competition with Montréal and Québec City (each only 1.5 hours away) have made it harder for GLBT venues to stay open. Nonetheless, you’ll find plenty of gay-friendly establishments in both Trois-Rivières and Shawinigan.
Largest cities : Trois-Rivières (pop. 126.000.), Shawinigan (pop. 52.000), La Tuque (pop. 12.000).
The Inn at Lac à l’Eau Claire : The source of relaxation itself
STARTING AT
Get-away Package: One night accommodation 5-course dinner Buffet breakfast Bottle of sparkling wine in your room Access to the Wellness Centre Service included
$ 149
PER PERS. DOUBLE OCCUPANCY STARTING AT
$ 253
PER PERS. SINGLE OCCUPANCY
500, Chemin du Lac-à-l’Eau-Claire St-Alexis-des-Monts (Québec, Canada) J0K 1V0 1 877 265-3185 www.lacaleauclaire.com GQ l 237
© Tourisme Québec
Discovering New France THE KING’S WAY
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etween Montréal and Québec City, on the north shore of the Saint-Lawrence, the chemin du roy or “King’s way” was the land route to be built in Canada. The chemin du Roy was built from 1731 to 1737 and stretches over 280 km. It linked the three major cities of New France as well as all of the villages in between. The completion of this “royal” road facilitated commerce, travel, mail delivery, and expanded land occupation in the colony. Today, the chemin du Roy is a well-established tourist route that runs parallel to route 138 and runs through three major tourist regions of Québec: the Québec City region, Mauricie, and Lanaudière. The journey begins in Portneuf in the Québec City region, where you pass through some of the most beautiful villages in Québec, like Neuville, Cap-Santé, 238 l GQ
Deschambault and Grondines. In Mauricie, on its longest stretch, the chemin du Roy passes through picturesque villages that line the Saint-Lawrence, from Champlain to Sainte-Anne-de-la-Pérade, to bring you to the heart of Old-TroisRivières, with its lively streets and harbour. This contrasts beautifully with the bucolic landscapes to the west, in Maskinongé. Throughout Lanaudière, the chemin du Roy passes right beside the Saint-Lawrence, from Berthierville all the way to Repentigny. The tourist route brings us all the way to the first streets of this Montréal suburb. The chemin du Roy is beautiful to travel by car or motorcycle, but its many charms are best seen on a bike. Officially designated a “Green Route” for nearly its entire length, the chemin du Roy has many sections with bike paths.
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Mauricie Accommodation, restaurants & interesting places Auberge à l’Arrêt du Temps 965, boul. de Lanaudière, Chemin du Roy Ste-Anne-de-la-Pérade, G0X 2J0
418.325.3590 / 1.877.325.3590 www.laperade.qc.ca/arretdutemps
It is as if time has come to a halt in this ancestral home with unique character. Run by Serge and René, this Inn has received several awards.
Auberge Godefroy 17575, boulevard Bécancour
1.800.361.1620 www.aubergegodefroy.com
Next to a bay facing the city of Trois-Rivières, this high-end inn offers well-appointed rooms, indoor and outdoor swimming, and a dedicated staff to meet your every request.
Auberge Le Florès 4291, 50e Avenue, Ste-Flore-deGrand-Mère, G9T 1A6
1.800.538.9340 www.leflores.com info@leflores.com
With its enchanting decor, ambiance and delectable fine dining, this 34-room Inn is close to many activities.
Auberge Saint-Mathieu du Lac 2081, chemin Principal Saint-Mathieu-du-Parc, G0X 1N0
819.532.3397 www.auberge-st-mathieu-du-lac.com
Just ten minutes from Mauricie National Park, this Inn built by the owner will charm you with its warm atmosphere and its natural surroundings, nuzzled between a lake and a mountain.
Camping Lac St-Michel 11 650 Rue du Clairon, Trois Rivières QC G9A 5E1
819.374.8474
5 camp grounds with high cleanliness and service standards in 5 of Québec’s most beautiful tourist regions. Camping Union camp sites are amongst the best camp sites in the Chaudière-Appalaches, Gaspé, Eastern Townships, Laurentians, Mauricie and all over.
Cité de l’énergie 1000, av. Melville, Shawinigan, G9N 6T9
819.536.8516 / 1.866.900.2483 www.citedelenergie.com
This tourist complex offers a unique experience filled with culture and entertainment. Check out the Hydro-Québec observation tower for gorgeous panoramic views.
Restaurant Aqua 334, rue des Forges Trois-Rivières, G9A 2H1
819 371 1515 www.restaurantaqua.com
Located in the heart of downtown Trois-Rivières, the superb décor of this modern resto measures up to the creative presentation and succulent food. Chef-owner Stéphane devotes all of his skills to thrilling your taste-buds: from lobster burgers to fresh pasta, you’ll be carried away by Aqua’s true passion for the culinary art.
Festival International de poésie de Trois-Rivières
819.379.9813 www.fiptr.co
This major event brings together poetry-lovers, mostly at the Bar Zénob (171, rue Bonaventure). From September 28 to October 7.
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Mauricie Festival du western de Sainte-Tite Ville de Sainte-Tite
418.365.7524 / 1.877.WESTERN www.festivalwestern.co
This country music festival and rodeo with over 600 000 visitors will bring out your inner cowboy/girl. The 2012 edition runs from September 7-16.
Festivoix 1300, rue du Fleuve Trois-Rivières, G9A 6B2
819.372.4635 www.festivoix.co
This festival in celebration of the voice features a wide variety of music styles with over 80 different shows. The 2012 edition runs from June 28 to July 8.
Forges du Saint-Maurice 10000, boul. des Forges Trois-Rivières, G9C 1B1
819.378.5116 / 1.888.773.8888 www.parcscanada.gc.ca/forges
This national historic site is located at the site of the first steel company in Canada. Make sure to stop in the site’s visitor’s centre to learn more about Canada’s industrial history..
Gîte de l’artiste 1021 Grand-Rang, Saint-Tite, G0X 3H0
418.365.3855 www.pierrepatry.com
This large ancestral house, home to the painter Pierre Patry, and renovated with the modern amenities, is a beautiful place for a getaway.
Gîte Saint-Mathieu du Parc 660 Chemin St Marc, St-Mathieu du Parc
819.532.1062 / 819.370.6468 www.gitechambrechaletstmathieuduparc.com
In the heart of St-Mathieu-du-Parc, this Inn, just 10 minutes away from the Mauricie National Park, is a place of calm and comfort. Surrounded by mountains, forests and lakes (60 in this region alone), you will be at one with nature.
Hôtel Sacacomie 4000, chemin Yvon-Plante, Saint-Alexis-des-Monts, J0K 1V0
819.265.4444 / 888 265-4414 www.sacacomie.com
This charming hotel is ideal for nature lovers, located just minutes from the Mastigouche wildlife reserve and Lake Sacacomie. Ideal for a getaway, this hotel is open all year round.
Musée québécois de culture populaire 819.372.0406 200, rue Laviolette, Trois-Rivières, G9A 6L5 www.culturepop.qc.ca This museum of Québec working-class culture invites you to discover the values and the daily lives of everyday Quebeckers, as well as the former prison of Trois-Rivières.
Parc des Chutes Sainte Ursule 2575, rang des chutes, Sainte-Ursule, Qc J0K 3M0
819.228.3555 www.chutes-ste-ursule.com
The park is a place to relax par-excellence where one is lulled by the sound of the falls cascading over a total descent of more than 270 metres.
Passion Sélect Boutique Érotique
819.693.6040
1600, rue Royale, Trois-Rivières, G9A 4K1 www.passionselect.ca The largest erotic store in Mauricie. Accessories and erotic toys, lingerie, DVD always in promotion. Vast inventory, everything in store. 242 l GQ
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Not Just in the City Dramas by
Serge Boucher Serge Boucher © Jocelyn Michel
B
orn and raised in Victoriaville, playwright Serge Boucher is one of Central Québec’s most famous sons. Following in the footsteps of Michel-Marc Bouchard, who famously sets all of his highly homosexual dramas in rural locales, Boucher is known for depicting life outside of Montréal and Québec City. Though lesser known than preeminent dramatist laureate Michel Tremblay, Boucher’s first opus, Nature morte premiered in a production directed by the great author of Les Belles-Soeurs. After winning the Gratien-Gélinas prize (kind of like Québec’s Tony award) for Nature morte, he went on to achieve notoriety for his second work, Motel Hélène, a bizarre dramedy in which Johanne, the main character, is torn between her abusive husband, and François, the gay convenience store clerk who helps her finding meaning in life. 244 l GQ
François has become a recurring character in Boucher’s works, returning in various plays. His equally quirky and widely acclaimed foray into television has continued to place sexual diversity in the narrative of small town Québec, with the recent TV series Aveux (“Confessions”) showing a central bisexual character: the series has unflinching sub-plots about pedophilia and transsexuality, all set in the town of La Tuque in the Mauricie region. Unlike its English counterpart the CBC, Radio-Canada has not shied away from tough and taboo subjects in its fictional dramas. Is about female fraternal twins, one of whom who mysteriously disappears on their birthday, leading to an exploration of identity crisis as a theme. In March, 2013, his new piece Avec Norm, starring the handsome Benoît McGinnis, will be performed at Montréal’s Théâtre du Rideau Vert..
Central Québec
Mondial des Cultures © Frédérick Côté
A required Stop
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outh of the St. Lawrence River, the Centre-du-Québec region earns its name from being adjacent to all of Québec’s most populous areas: Montréal and surrounding areas, the Eastern Townships, the Mauricie region and the greater Québec City area. As such, it’s the perfect place to plan an excursion to any major attraction in Québec. The region’s major urban centre is Drummondville, the perfect place to stop between Montréal and Québec. History buffs will want
to visit Village québécois d’antan, a cultural and historic heritage site. If you appreciate traditional cultures from around the world, you will want to make a trip during the Mondial des cultures, a folk music and dance festival that takes place at Woodyatt Park in Drummondville. The festival will celebrate its 30th anniversary July 5-15, 2012. the Village québécois d’antan will literally immerse you in the past. If you are a fan of traditional world cultures, you’ll want to make a trip during the Mondial des culGQ l 245
Central Québec
tures, a folk and traditional dance festival that takes place every July at Woodyatt Park in Drummondville. The festival will celebrate its 30th year in 2012. Over 11 days of festivities, dozens of world renowned artists and folk dance troupes participate in the events, which gather over 300,000 spectators every year. Drummondville has a number of gay-friendly dining establishments for the weary traveler. In the heart of the town, the restaurant and inn A la bonne vôtre is widely praised 246 l GQ
for its decadent food as well is its friendly, welcoming atmosphere. In June, Victoriaville hosts the Festival des fromages fins du Québec, a fine cheese festival for foodies and gourmets to taste the country’s finest dairy creations. Lovers of fresh air and wide open spaces and gay naturists have gathered regularly at the Domaine Emeraude campground and resort in Saint-François-du-Lac by Lake Saint-Pierre.
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Central Québec Accommodation
À la bonne vôtre 819.474.0008 / 866.474.0008 207, rue Lindsay, Drummondville, téléc.: 819.474.0162 J2C 1N8 www.alabonnevotre.ca Enjoy a comfortable week end in the heart of Drummondville and close to all activities. Domaine Émeraude 450.568.3634 261, rang de la Grande-Terre, www.domaine-emeraude.com Saint‑François-Du-Lac, J0G 1M0 info@domaine-emeraude.com Charming little property for adult males only. The owners wish to create a friendly, respectful and warm atmosphere; a place for fun, relaxation and meeting others. The clothing-optional policy applies to most of the primary site. Hôtel Montfort Nicolet 819.293.6262 1141, rue Saint-Jean-Baptiste www.hotelmonfort.ca Nicolet, J3T 1W4 Located in the historic mansion of the Monfortain Order overlooking the Nicolet River, this 50-room hotel features a restaurant in the converted chapel, an indoor pool, and a rooftop spa. 819.358.9101 Le Gîte du Champayeur www.champayeur.qc.ca 5, rue de l’Hôtel de Ville, Warwick, J0A 1M0 This charming little inn is located in Warwick, Québec’s national fine cheese capital. The perfect place to start a cycling adventure, and close to golfing, skiing, and many artisanal cheese-makers. Winner of the 2009 People’s choice’s Agricotours prize. Le Village québécois d’Antan 819.478.1441 / 1.877.710.0267 www.villagequebecois.com 1425, rue Montplaisir, Drummondville, J2B 7T5 Located close to Highway 20 in Drummondville, almost halfway between Montréal and Québec City, Village Québécois d’Antan is a lively revival of XIXth century rural Québec life. Victorines du lac 819.583.6904 / téléc.: 819.583.6906 1886, route 161 Sud Lac Mégantic, www.victorines.ca G6B 2S1 info@victorines.ca 17 elegantly fashioned and unique rooms providing an inviting change of scenery and an opportunity for relaxation.
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SAguenay–Lac-St-Jean / North Shore
Saguenay
Between Berries & Lillies
Michel Marc Bouchard
Š Damian Siqueiros
Between berries & lilies
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et in Roberval in the early 20th century, Lilies (Les Feluettes) was the break-out play by celebrated out playwright Michel-Marc Bouchard, who hails from the Saguenay-Lac-SaintJean region. Originally produced in the late 1980’s, this play remains one of very few pieces written for the theatre that feature two Romeos torn apart by intolerance. Translated into multiple languages, and brought to the screen by acclaimed filmmaker John Greyson, Lilies has become an iconic work in Québec’s gay cultural canon. Since stepping onto the theatre scene in 1985, Michel Marc Bouchard overturned all the conventions. An instigator of a truly gay theatrical language, he also achieved hugs success in Québec’s theatrical establishment. Unlike Tremblay, Bouchard’s work is more interested in gay life outside of major cities. Young Québec filmmaker Xavier Dolan (I Killed my Mother,
Heartbeats) will be adapting Bouchard’s Tom à la ferme, the prolific playwright’s latest hit. All of Bouchard’s favourite themes are here: repressed sexuality, passion, and the archetypal return home. He has a banner year ahead, with his Christine, la reine-garçon at the Théâtre du Nouveau-Monde in November, and a remount of his career-making Les Muses orphelines at the Jean Duceppe, Feb 20 – Mar 30, 2012. Michel Marc Bouchard’s career has been marked by countless awards and prizes. A darling of the Canada and Ontario Councils for the Arts, he was shortlisted 3 times for the Governor General’s Literary Award, and nominated (also 3 times) for a Masque for best original script. He is the winner of the 1992 CAN prize and was honoured with the title of Officer of the Order of Canada by Governor General Michaëlle Jean. GQ l 253
Saguenay
Saguenay
© auandre
L
ocated at upper limit of the majestic Saguenay fjord, in the shadow of the looming Valin hills, the City of Saguenay is the 7th largest city in Québec with some 145,000 inhabitants, which amounts to about half the region’s population. With an area of over 1,100 sq. km, the region is about twice the size of the Island of Montreal. Created by an amalgamation of Chicoutimi, Jonquière and La Baie, it is a university town, with a strong industrial and service sector. As such, it’s the foremost LGBT hub in the region: it is here that 254 l GQ
you’ll find the only gay establishment in the area, the Complexe K, which includes the K-Mé-Léon nightclub and since Nov. 2011, the K-baret, located in the borough of Jonquière. Numerous festivals and cultural events take place in Saguenay all year long, including the Festival International des Rythmes du Monde, Aug 2-12. Come winter, the city shakes off the cold with the Saguenay en neige (Feb) and Hibernades (March) festivals.
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Ville de saguenay Accomm o d a t i o n Auberge des 21 621, rue Mars, Ville de la Baie, Québec, G7B 4N1
1.800.363.7298 / 418. 697.2121 www.aubergedes21.com aubergedes21@royaume.com
Our Inn is located on the shore of the majestic Saguenay Fjord and the Marine Park. Its warm family Inn atmosphere will fascinate you as much as the quality of its services and its fine regional cuisine.
Auberge des Battures 6295, boul. de la Grande Baie Sud, Saguenay, G7B 3P6
418.544-8234 / 1.800.668.8234 www.hotel-saguenay.com
A unique 4-star country style hotel with 32 rooms. It offers an incredible panoramic view.
Au Fil des Saisons 832, rue Cimon, La Baie, G7B 3L2
418.697.1000 / Téléc. : 418.697.1000 www.aufildessaisons.com aufildessaisons@hotmail.com
A few steps away from Charlevoix. Magnificent 6 bedroom Inn all with private bathrooms with a panoramic view of La Baie des Ha! Ha! Our packages include dinner, 1 night accommodation, breakfast : 100$/person based on double occupancy.
K-Mé-Léon/ K-Baret 2725, boul. du Royaume, Jonquière, Qc G7X 7V3
418.548.2351
The only gay establishment in the area, the Complexe K, which includes the K-MéLéon nightclub and since Nov. 2011, the K-baret
Auberge Du Jardin 71, boul. Dumas, Petit-Saguenay, G0V 1N0
1.888.272.3444 / 418.272.3444 Téléc. : 418.272.3174 www.aubergedujardin.com
Quiet and comfortable place in the Fjord du Saguenay. Exceptional countryside. Famous fine cuisine for gourmets prepared with regional products.
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Saguenay
© auandre
The Kingdom of Saguenay
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hile there has undoubtedly been progress made for gays and lesbians over the last hundred years, most will admit it’s still not easy to live openly outside of major urban areas. Nonetheless, the riding of Jonquière, in the heart of this semi-rural region, became the first to elect an openly gay Member of National Assembly, Sylvain Gaudreault, in 2007. Since the federal elections in May, 2011, the MP for ChicoutimiLe-Fjord is NDP Dany Morin, newly named co-spokesperson for the official opposition for LGBT issues. How times have changed! From the mouth of the majestic Saguenay Fjords, to the upper reaches of Lac Saint-Jean, hospitality is not hard to find. Going up-river along the Saguenay, you won’t want to miss the picturesque villages of L’Anse Saint-Jean and Sainte-Rose-du-Nord. History buffs may want to visit the historic ghost town of Val-Jalbert, which will tell 258 l GQ
you the story of 19th-century colonization of this First Nations territory by farmers from Charlevoix. At the heart of the region, the city of Saguenay with its 150,000 inhabitants comprises more than half of the population of the whole region. An industrial city and service hub, Saguenay has a gay and lesbian culture counting only one openly gay establishment, the K-Mé-Léon bar, the Complexe K, which includes the K-Mé-Léon nightclub and since Nov. 2011, the K-baret The greater Saguenay area has quite a few gay-friendly B&Bs and inns where you can count on a warm welcome typical of the friendly people of this corner of the country. The perfect location for a summertime swim (or winter ski) is nearby Mont Édouard. Largest city,: Saguenay (pop. 150,000)
The St-Pierre family is expecting you at this fun and welcoming new accommodation and health complex. The luxury of a hotel combined with the charm and ambiance of a country resort will make for a unique and beautiful experience.
96, chemin du Parc Municipal, Chambord QC G0W 1G0
418.342.1111 / 1.877.342.7933 info@chaletsetspa.com
www.chaletsetspa.com
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saguenay
Accomm o d a t i o n La Maison de Vébron 56, de Vébron, Anse-Saint-Jean, G0V 1J0
418.272.3232 www.maisondevebron.com
Located at the foot of the Mont Édouard ski slopes, this small hotel is remarquable with the availability of common areas in each villa. Conference room, billiards room, and more.
Le Gîte du Paradis 935, rue du Quai, Sainte-Rose-du-Nord, G0V 1T0
418.675.1382 www.giteduparadis.com
Nice occasions to know people, to create friendly bonds and to discover other cultures in the beautiful nature surrounding the village of Ste-Rose-du-Nord.
Plein air de l’anse 190 chemin Périgny, L’Anse Saint Jean, G0V 1J0
418 272-3085 www.pleinairdelanse.com
Snow-shoeing, hiking, and dog-sledding are three of the adventurous ways to get around when exploring the magnificent Saguenay fjords with Vanessa, your guide at Plein air de l’anse. Tent or stay overnight at their Inn La Grangette, and even try ice-fishing!
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Lac Saint-Jean © JemJem
The Majestic Lac Saint-Jean
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raveling up to Lac Saint-Jean proper, visitors are sure to enjoy the 15 km of beaches at the Pointe-Taillon National Park, known by many to be one of the most beautiful soft-water beaches in Québec. Such expanses of beach naturally allow for more than a few areas where nudity is allowed. In Saint-Félicien, you can visit the “Jardin zoologique” (Zoological Garden). If you make a stop in Roberval to retrace the steps of Vallier and Simon from Lilies, you’re right next to the Innu community of Mashteuiatsh. Visiting this place will be a chance to connect with the culture of the country’s original inhabitants. 262 l GQ
In August, don’t miss the chance to enjoy the region’s famed blueberries. The inhabitants of the region have their own pet-name for this species of Northern Blueberry, les beluets, that also ironically refer to locals. For those who enjoy cycling through their vacation, the blueberry bike trail is a great way to travel around the Lake. With a circumference of 256 km, take the opportunity to relax in one the numerous inns that dot the trail, where you can enjoy local produce and cuisine. Largest cities : Alma (pop. 30 000),
Lac Saint-Jean
A c c o m m o dation
Auberge des berges 610, boul. Sacré-Cœur, St-Félicien, G8K 1T5
1.877.679.3346 www.auberge-des-berges.qc.ca
Only 10 minutes from the Zoo, you’ll be won over by this adorable inn. 15 cosy rooms, family-sized suites, a covered oudoor spa, solarium and furnished patio: come enjoy their certified local cuisine with one of many package deals
Auberge Presbytère Mont Lac-Vert 335, rang Lac-Vert, Héberville, G8N 1M1
418.344.1548 / 1.800.818.1548 téléc. : 418.344.1013 www.aubergepresbytere.com
Danielle and Robert offer a warm welcome at their Inn, formerly a presbytery up until 1978. Prayer and meditation has made way for their delicious cuisine, made with local ingredients. You will no doubt be enchanted not only by the fine dining, but also their beautiful site and romantic ambiance.
Brise du Lac 493, rue Brassard, Roberval, G8H 1B8
418.275.0656 / Téléc.: 418.275.8398 www.gitelabrisedulac.com info@gitelabrisedulac.com
In the heart of Roberval, where the action of Michel-Marc Bouchard’s famous play Lilies takes place, this B&B allows you to fully enjoy the beauty of the Lac Saint-Jean.
Chalets et Spa Lac St-Jean 96, chemin du Parc Municipal, Chambord, G0W 1G0
1877 342-7933 www.chaletsetspa.net info@chaletsetspa.com
Grand chalet en bois rond pour 20 personnes, 3 chalets de 6 condos et deux autres petits de six personnes : vous trouverez facilement l’hébergement qui vous convient. Le centre de santé vous offre également des services de spa, de massothérapie ou de soins corporels.
Le Tilleul 607 Rue Jules Lamy, Lac-à-la-Croix, G8G 2H7
418.349.2786 www.letilleul.ca ceciledulac@live.ca
For that extra-special get-away, this country house offers the view of two intersecting lakes, with its awesome 2-bedroom chalet on 2 stories which can accommodate up to 4 people. Cross-country ski trails, hiking trails, and tourist attractions surround you.
Nikuishkushtakan - Carrefour d’accueil Ilnu 1516 rue Ouiatchouan, Mashteuiatsh G0W 2H0
418 275-7200 www.kuei.ca
The Pekuakamiulnuatshs people are the only Innu community in Saguenay-LacSaint-Jean: their visitors’ centre allows you to experience their rich heritage and culture, with numerous accommodations available in town.
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The North Shore Monolithes près de Havre-Saint-Pierre © Wikipedia.org
Come Get Carried Away !
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etting out from Tadoussac, at the mouth of the Saguenay Fjords, you’ll discover the North Shore’s immense boreal forest, either by driving on Route 138 or by boat. Home of the Innu People and of isolated fishing villages, this region was transformed by a major network of hydro-electric dams in the mid-20th century. Inhabited for more than 10,000 years by First Nations People, the North Shore is the first place Europeans were to tread in the New World. In fact, long before the
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Basque whale-hunters explored the region in the 15th century, traces of a Viking presence indicate European settlement as early as the 9th century. When Jacques Cartier explored the northern shores of the Gulf, he wrote that it was “the land that God granted to Cain.” Today, it remains one of the least populated regions of Québec, with only 100,000 inhabitants spread out over 200,000 km2, with half of the inhabitants living mostly in the industrial towns of Sept-Îles and BaieComeau.
The North Shore The North Shore is still mostly wilderness, its tiny towns acting as the gateway to Québec’s Great North. Sprinkled along the coast of the estuary and the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the villages and towns of the North Shore boast some of the most beautiful beaches in Québec, if you can handle the icy gulf waters! It’s also a wonderful area for getting acquainted with the First Nations of the province, as it is home to seven communities of the region’s first inhabitants. The Upper North Shore (or HauteCôte-Nord), located just north of the Saguenay River, has quite a few gayfriendly bed & breakfasts. They’re the ideal place to get away from the buzz of the city and get back in touch with nature at its most pristine. Founded in 1601 as a trading post, Tadoussac is one of the oldest French settlements in the Americas. Present-day Tadoussac is located not far from the original trading post, at the mouth of the Saguenay River. You won’t want to miss the chance to go whale watching, with the stunning backdrop of a glacial fjord. In 1998, the town became North America’s first member of the World’s Most Beautiful Bays Club. Over 300,000 tourists visit the 1,000-person town every year. Ta-
doussac boasts a diverse set of cultural events come summer. The 29th edition of the Festival de la chanson, June 14-17, will play host to out Montréal musicians Ariane Moffatt and Socalled. Nature-lovers will be overjoyed to discover the Mingan Archipelago National Park with its limestone and granite islands, or for an even wilder experience, the the Island of Anticosti, a gigantic piece of untouched wilderness in the middle of the Gulf. The Réserve du Parc national de l’Archipel de Mingan harbours a string of chalky islands covering 150 km2, located along the Havre SaintPierre, facing the Island of Anticosti. The reserve exceptional geological features include surreal monoliths, as well as untouched boreal plant-life. The waters surrounding the islands are rich in bird and sea life, including puffins, which nest on some of the archipelago’s islands. Located in the middle of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Anticosti is Québec’s largest island. The island is an untouched natural world unto itself, bathed in crystalline northern light. You’ll be astounded by the tall white cliffs lapped incessantly by icy
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The North Shore Tadussac © Flickr.com
waves, the steep canyons and the roar of gushing waterfalls. You’ll also find huge secret caves, thousands of white-tailed deer, wild salmon swimming in emerald-green pools and seals lapping up the sun on the rocky beaches.
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Let yourself be sucked in by the wild beauty of Anticosti and the North Shore! Main urban areas: Sept-Îles, population 26,000; Baie-Comeau, population 23,000
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The North Shore AAA Maison Gagné Accueil Amical Ass. 29, rue Principale, Pointe-Mistassini, G0H 1E0
418.294.2007 / Cell : 418.293.5434 pages.globetrotter.net/lamaisongagne residencejg@hotmail.com
Cottage rental, equipped, day/week, access to the St. Lawrence River, no smoking, whales, individual dry sauna. Auberge Maison Gagné 139, rue Bateau-Passeur, Tadoussac, G0T 2A0
418.235.4526 / 1.877.235.4526 téléc.: 418.235.4832 www.aubergemaisongagne.com amg@aubergemaisongagne.ca
Just by the Saguenay Fjord, Auberge Maison Gagné warmly welcomes you in their nice and charming rooms. Auberge Rosepierre 66, rue Principale, Bergeronnes, G0T 1Y0
418.232.6543 www.rosepierre.com
Splendid pink granite inn in the center of the village, offering a fine regional cuisine, only 15 minutes from Tadoussac. Owners Diane and Richard invite you with open arms. Les Maisonnettes des Îles 126, rue de la Mer, Longue-Pointe de Mingan, G0G 1V0
1.877.949.2302 Télec.: 418.949.2071 www.minganie.info
Fully equipped seaside cottages overlooking the Mingan Archipelago, each with asher/dryer, bedding, kitchenware and digital TV. Outdoor adventure and restaurant packages available, as well as rebates on our souvenir shop. Resto-Pub l’Orange Bleue 905 rue Bossé, Baie-Comeau, Québec, G5C 1L8
418.589.8877 www.orangebleue.ca
A fabulous complex of establishments, l’Orange Bleue has it all: a café, restaurant, and pub all welcome you for breakfast, lunch, happy hour and dinner, where you can try their huge selection of beer and wines.
Une auberge unique au Témiscouata, près de tous les services, avec accès direct à la piste cyclable, de motoneige et de quad (VTT). 144 Rue Commerciale Témiscouata-sur-le-lac (Secteur Cabano), Québec G0L 1E0 1-888-688-1149 268 l GQ
info@aubergeinternationale.com
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Lower Saint-Lawrence / GaspĂŠ / The Magdalen Islands / acadia
Le Vaisseau d’or (The Golden Ship) It was a massive Ship carved out of solid Gold, Its masts reached azure skies, she sailed on seas unknown With Venus of love spreadeagled at the prow, Hair dishevelled and naked under the beating sun. But one night the ship struck the great reef On treacherous Ocean where the Siren was heard. The horrible shipwreck tilted, its hull aslant, she sank Deep down to the abyss so deep, that changless coffin. It was a Golden Vessel. Her diaphanous sides Revealing treasures that the lowly crew, Repulsion, Hatred and Neurosis, did fight over. What’s left of it under the brief abating storm? What became of my heart, that abandoned shipwreck? Alas, it has sunk down in the abyss of Dreams.
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Émile Nelligan
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he Golden Ship” by Québec most famous 19th-century poet, Émile Nelligan, was probably inspired by one of the many legends that grew up around the shipwrecks that dotted the lower Saint Lawrence River and the Gulf of St. Lawrence in the Gaspé region. The Nelligan family would spend their summer holidays there, like many upper-class Montréalers of the Gilded Age. It’s no coincidence then, that a classical pianist, hailing from the Lower Saint Lawrence village of SaintPacôme de Kamouraska famous Québec pianist André Gagnon, would set to music the libretto for the opera Nelligan by Michel Tremblay.
The opera echoes the story of a gay love affair between the young Nelligan and his friend, the poet Arthur de Bussières. It’s impossible though to know whether the affair ever happened for real, although a recent historical essay by Bernard Courteau posits Nelligan’s homosexuality from a psychoanalytic perspective. One thing is certain, when you travel the byways, trails, and coastalareas of the St. Lawrence River, from the Bas-du-Fleuve to the Gaspé region, you relive the world that inspired Québec’s national poet, and that remains a favorite destination for tourists from here and abroad. GQ l 271
Lower Saint-Lawrence
From River to Sea © André Gagnon
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he huge tourism district stretches from Chaudière-Appalaches all the way to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, where the river becomes the sea. You can explore this spectacular region, nestled between land and sea stopping at your leisure at rest stops that line Route 132. You’ll also find many gay-friendly inns, motels, and hotels. From the adorable villages of the Kamouraska district, where the River becomes a Seaway, to the first signs of real ocean beaches at Mitis, which you reach by passing through Trois-Pistoles, Rivière-du-Loup and Cacouna, the landscape changes from quaint valley to the majestic vistas of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Blue, as far as the eye can see. If you want to explore the island geography of the region, take the picturesque Ile Verte historic trail. In the shadow of its church’s impressive neo-gothic 272 l GQ
steeple, you can visit the circuit court house, as well as the heritage Girard house. Of interest, though not open to the public, you’re pass by the residence of the poet Blanche Lamontagne, and the home of Robertine Berry, Canada’s first female journalist. If you drive along the valley of the Temiscouata River, you come into a transitional geographic area of the Appalachian foothills on your way to the Acadian parts of New Brunswick, and will travel through the proud “République du Madawaska”, which the brayonne French descendants call home. Nature spas and the popular resort town of Pohénégamook await you further down the Témiscouata. Largest cities : Rivière-du-Loup (pop. 19 200) ; La Pocatière (pop. 4 500) ; Trois-Pistoles (pop. 3 500)
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Lower Saint-Lawrence
Accommodation & restaurants Café Azimut 309, 4e avenue, La Pocatière G0R 1Z0
418.856.2411 cafeazimut9@bellnet.ca
Regional gastronomy or Canadian and vegetarian cooking... The café Azimut delights you with so many delicious specialities !
Auberge Internationale Temiscouata 144, rue Commerciale Témiscouata-sur-le-lac (Secteur Cabano), G0L 1E0
1888.688.1149 www.aubergeinternationale.com
Located near one of the most beautiful lakes in all of Québec, this hotel is the perfect home base for your excursions: hiking, canoeing, or snowmobiling.
Gîte La Maison aux Flambeaux 319, rang de la Haute-Ville, Kamouraska, G0L 1M0
418.498.3197 lamaisonauxflambeaux.site.voila.fr
Gay B&B open year round, outdoor swimming pool, massage package, 10 tent sites available.
Le Bec Fin 266, Rue Rochette, Saint-Pascal, G0L3Y0
418.492.3039
With his 35 years of experience, Gilles Guilbert invites you to discover his tasteful menu. You’ll be deligted by his simple but amazing cooking.
Maison À Louer Ou À Vendre
maisonalouer@ile-verte.ca
Located 20 km from Rivière-du-Loup, Jeannine and Laurent offer a warm welcome in their home, which features gorgeous landscapes, sunsets and northern lights on a majestic island. The property is over 700 000 square feet and has a barn.
Tourisme patrimonial du Bas St Laurent 148, rue Fraser, 2e étage Rivière-du-Loup, G5R 1C8
418 867.1272 / 1.800.563.5268 www.patrimoine.bassaintlaurent.ca
The Bas-Saint-Laurent (“Lower Saint-Lawrence”) region holds many treasures of Québec heritage. Discover its beautiful bridges, churches, lighthouses, landscapes and traditions.
Tourisme Rivière du Loup 189, boulevard de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, Rivière-du-Loup (Québec) G5R 5C4
418.862.1981 1.888.825.1981 info@tourismeriviereduloup.ca
The tourist office features the Saguenay – St. Lawrence Marine Park Reception and Orientation Centre. Maps,posters and Heritage Tour brochures can be purchased on site.
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Rimouski, le Bic, Sainte-Luce
Rimouski, le Bic, Sainte-Luce-sur-Mer Sainte-Luce-sur-Mer © André Gagnon
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imouski is the major city in the Bas-Saint-Laurent region, with 46,000 inhabitants. This quaint university town is home to some gay-friendly establishments, and a well-known nightlife built up along boulavard Saint-Germain. In the surrounding area, you’ll find culinary sophistication at the Auberge Mange-Grenouille at Le Bic, located at the gate of the national park. Located just west of Rimouski, the Bic National Park, on the shores of the St. Lawrence, is post-card perfect with its spectacular landscape of capes, bays, islands, meadows and mountains. One of the county’s smaller parks, its rocky shoreline is home to a tremendous variety of sea-bird and rare plant life. Four different museums make Rimouski an historical centre. The foremost is the Site historique 276 l GQ
maritime de la Pointe-au-Père, located in the Pointe-au-Père area, and exhibiting the treasures of the Empress of Ireland shipwreck. You can also visit the Pointe-au-Père lighthouse. Just 16 km east of Rimouski, in Sainte-Luce-sur-mer, you come to the Seaway’s most well-known seaside resort. This picture-perfect seaside town is known for its beach and boardwalk on the St. Lawrence. At the Bistro du Nipigon restaurant with its unmatched view of the Bay, meet its Montréal expat owner, who made the area his home upon deciding never to return to the city. He’ll tell you everything about the Nipigon, one of her Majesty’s ships that was sunk just off the shores of Sainte-Luce, making it a treasure trove for sport divers and history buffs. Major urban centres: Rimouski (pop. 46,000),
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Rimouski, Le bic & ste-luce
Accommodation & restaurants Auberge du Mange-Grenouille 148, rue Sainte-Cécile, Bic, G0L 1B0
418.736.5656 , Téléc. : 418.736.5657 aubergedumangegrenouille.qc.ca admg@globetrotter.net
This Inn is more like a relais & château with private garden and outdoor spa overlooking the iles du Bic; outstanding gourmet local cuisine and sommelier service await you at this superb hide-away
Bistro du Nipigon 18 route du fleuve Ouest, Sainte Luce sur Mer, Qc G0K 1P0
418.739.6922 www.lenipigon.com
With its stunning view of the beach at Sainte Luce sur Mer, the Nipigon serves fish and sea food specialties on its heated patio, with live music on Saturday nights and a 2-bedroom apartment accommodation. Kayaking and diving are also on the menu for outdoor and underwater activities.
Comfort Inn Rimouski 455 boul. St-Germain ouest, Rimouski, QC G5L 3P2
418.724.2500 www.comfortinn.com
Conveniently located near the Carrefour Rimouski Mall, the Jardin de Métis and the Maison Lamontagne, the Comfort Inn offers free continental breakfast, free locals and high-speed wireless, as well as a business centre. Enjoy their charmingly decorated spacious rooms with cable TV; guide animals accepted.
Gîte du village 53, Saint-Alphonse Ste-Luce G0K 1P0
418.739.3224 / 1.866.539.3224 giteduvillage@hotmail.com
Open year round, Isabelle and Mario’s family-style B&B is as welcoming as can be. Only 2.5km from the beach, it’s just as enjoyable in the winter due to the outdoor spa and Swedish massage therapy.
Gîte Victoria 77, rue Saint-Pierre, Rimouski, G5L 1T4
418.723.4483
Lovely B&B in the middle of all the attractions of the city of Rimouski.
La Marechante 36, rue du Fleuve O., Sainte-Luce, G0K 1P0
418.739.5393 Téléc. : 418.739.5065 gites-classifies.qc.ca/marechante.htm
On the St. Lawrence River, ancestral house 4 rooms, camping site (22), chalets, in the village center.
Motel Au Soleil Couchant 945, boul. Ste-Anne (route 132), Rimouski QC G5M 1J1
418.723.2930 www.motelsoleilcouchant.com
This riverside motel is a haven of peace and quiet. Enjoy some of the world’s most beautiful sunsets from their patio overlooking the Seaway.
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The Gaspé
Enter the Gaspé through its Gardens
Jardins de Métis © Maroussia, Flickr
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nly 50 km east of Rimouski, you enter the remote-seeming region of the Gaspé. And there’s no better entrance than via the sumptuous Jardins de Métis, a belle époque paradise from the era when wealthy Montréal families made this part of the estuary their home for the summer. Now in its 50th year open to the public, these English-style gardens are known internationally as an exceptional work of horticultural art.
ferent gardens. Contemporary artworks are interspersed throughout the garden, harmonized with the historic character of the flora on display.
The Jardins de Métis are the fruit of one woman’s dedication: Elsie Reford transformed her fishing camp into a private paradise between 1926 and 1958. Some 3000 species and varieties of plants grow in over a dozen dif-
Every year since 2000, landscape architects, as well as designers and internationally renowned artists come to the Jardins de Métis to create original garden installations for the Festival international des jardins.
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In Villa Estevan, a magnificent manor dating from 1887, a permanent exhibit illustrates the Reford family’s history. You can also enjoy the Villa’s temporary exhibits, as well as the special summer events like musical brunches, literary teas, outdoor concerts and weddings.
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the Gaspé
The Gaspé
© André Gagnon
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he further east you go, the closer the mountains get to the shore, and you start to see the distinct landscape of the Gaspé peninsula. In Haute-Gaspésie (Upper Gaspé), the proximity of mountains and sea makes MontSaint-Pierre the hang-gliding capital, where the multicolored fabric wings add flair all summer. In July, the hang-gliding festival “La Fête du Vol Libre” is becoming a major international gathering for hang-gliding and paragliding. From Mont-Saint-Pierre, you can access the Gaspé National Park. A major highlight for hiking enthusiasts, this park provides access to fantastic mountain terrain. Of the many mountains that cut across the park, you’ll find Québec second highest, Mont JacquesCartier. The altitude of these mountains profoundly affects the climate which has made this ecologically a unique place in Québec, 282 l GQ
and even in the world. Arctic alpine plants and tundra-like landscapes make this the habitat for a troop of woodland caribou, the last remaining survivors of this species south of the St. Lawrence River. On the far eastern tip of the Gaspé region, at Forillon National Park, located just before Gaspé, you’ll find one of the most beautiful seaside beaches in the Gaspé region. Forillon National Park covers a protected area of the NotreDame and Mégantic Mountains, as well as preserving a sample of nature typical of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The many varieties of sea bird and arctic plants, and the 10 distinct geological types of rock formations lend a unique character to this park. On the human side, the Grande-Grave historical site testifies to the history and livelihood of the region’s many families of fishermen.
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the Gaspé © Dr Papillon and Hoedic
The region’s major city and namesake, Gaspé is where French colonisation began, with Jacques Cartier’s seizure of land in name of the King of France, in 1534. On the outskirts of the town, gays are known to enjoy the beaches that go by the names Boum Défense and Sandy Beach. Further south, in the direction of the Baie des Chaleurs, Percé and its famous rock are the region’s foremost tourist destination. There is a nude beach at Crevette Rose, in Coin-du-Blanc, located a few 284 l GQ
kilometers from Percé. In August, this old fishing village hosts the Percéïdes, an international festival of independent cinema and contemporary art that meshes with the landscape, architecture, and natural surroundings of this very special place. Largest cities : City of Gaspé (15 000 inh.), Matane (15,000 inh) Chandler (8 000 inh.), Sainte-Anne-des-Monts (7 000 inh.). Mont-Joli (7,000 inh)
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the Gaspé Accommodation & restaurants Auberge du Marchand 530, boulevard Perron Maria, G0C 1Y0
418.759.3766 / 1.888.959.3766 www.aubergedumarchand.com
With direct access to the plage de galets (shingle beach), this establishment with 16 rooms and one suite also features a fine grocery store, La Raffinerie, where you can buy some of the region`s local delicacies.
Au Pic De L’Aurore 1, route 132, Percé, GOC 2L0
1.866.882.2151 www.percechalet.com
Chalets, rooms and house, remote area, spectacular view on the Rock.
Au Presbytère (Gîte Touristique – B&B) 47, rue de l’Église Percé, Gaspésie G0C 2L0
418-782-5557 / 1-866-782-5557 Michel Boudreau www.perce-gite.com info@perce-gite.com
This century-old home with a view of the iconic Rocher Percé is only a few steps from the ocean. With its generous breakfasts, this B&B has won a dazzling array of awards from Agrotours, Lonely Planet, Ulysse and the esteemed Routard travel guide.
Auberge int. La vielle école 295 1st Avenue East, Sainte-Annedes-Monts, G4V 1B1
418 763-7123 www.aubergegaspesie.ca
Les cris des enfants de cette ancienne école transformée en auberge ont laissé la place au calme et à la quiétude bien mérités après une longue route. Autre récompense qui vous y attend : les magnifiques couchers de soleil rougeoyants sur la mer.
Motel Carleton 1751 boul. Perron (Route 132) Carleton-sur-mer, G0C 1J0
1.800.510.3288 www.motelcarleton.com
Their 28 rooms offer a spectacular view of the Baie des Chaleurs, with its breathtaking landscape and sunset.
Brasserie artisanale La Fabrique 360, avenue St-Jérôme, Matane, Québec, G4W 3B1
418.566.4020 www.publafabrique.com
La Fabrique is an artisanal brewery offering a great selection of local craft beers and imports, pub-style menu including burgers, sandwiches, fish & chips, Belgian fries and appetizers. The place also presents a variety of cultural events.
Hôtels des commandants 178, de la Reine, Gaspé, G4X 1T6
418.368.3355 / 418.368.1702 / 1.800.462.3355 www.hoteldescommandants.com
With its 70 impeccable rooms and expert staff, this excellent hotel offers spacious rooms and suites, as well as a health spa. You’re sure to leave refreshed by their view of the Bay of Gaspé, not to mention their delightful restaurant, the Terra Nova.
Manoir De Percé 212, route 132 Ouest, Percé, G0C 2L0
1.800.463.0858 / 418.782.2022 www.manoirdeperce.com
In the heart of Percé, facing Percé Rock and Bonaventure Island. Close to the wharf, boutiques, etc. Restaurant classified 3 Diamonds (CAA). Typically gaspesian fine cuisine. A different stay! 286 l GQ
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the Gaspé
Accommodation & restaurants Maison Carter, 146, rue de la Reine, Gaspé, G4X 2R2
418.368.5332 / 1.877.568.5332 www.lamaisoncarter.com
Located in the heart of Gaspe, this charming small hotel offers you 16 premium quality units in a sumptuous environment. The architecture and the decoration give the rooms a special charm.
Manoir des Sapins 180 boulevard Perron, Sainte-Félicité, G0J 2K0
418 733.8182 / 1877.733.8182 www.manoirdessapins.com info@manoirdessapins.com
Open year round, the youth hostel at the Auberge maintains this time-honoured tradition, notably due to their café and ice-cream counter Les Gamineries, which seats up to 30 people.
Nature Océan
418.782.2400 (ou 2181) 1.877.682.2400 www.natureocean.com
In Percé, country style cottages and campground with impressive scenery. The cottages in Cap d’Espoir are right on the beach.
Restaurant Motel Fleur De Lys 184, route 132 Est, Cap-Chat, G0J 1G0
1.888.786.5518 418.786.5518 www.motelfleurdelys.com
Motel 3 stars and well-known restaurant (Gaspésie Gourmande Award : Médaille Or).
Restaurant Le Récif 119, route 132 Ouest, Percé, GOC 2L0
418.782.5119
Pasta speciality, regional fishes and very warm ambiance.
Wazo 155 route 132 Ouest, Percé, Québec, G0C 2L0
418.782.5700 (période estivale) 418.782.5888 www.wazo.biz
Wazo is an enterprise that concerns itself primarily with the creation and elaboration of jewelery and decorative objects. Using diverse metals and different stones, it specializes in the fabrication of one-of-a-kind pieces.
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Acadia Pays-de-la-Sagouine © junglekey.fr
Discover Acadia
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nless you go by plane, visitors to Québec’s Iles de la Madeleine, an archipelago in the middle of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, you have no choice but to travel through the other Acadian regions of neighbouring New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island. Acadians are close cousins to Québeckers, with a national identity all their own, but with the same roots going back to French colonial rule. After being deported from the area they once occupied around the Bay of Fundy in 1755, the Acadians returns to plant their roots all over the Atlantic, from Louisiana to France, with some finding their way to Maine, Québec, and the other Maritime Provinces. Nowhere have the Acadians maintained a stronger presence and identity than in New Brunswick, 294 l GQ
where they make up a third of the population. Their distinct national identity can be seen in numerous places where the blue, white and red tricolor flag, branded with a yellow star, is hung in many parts of Canada where the Acadians have settled, and especially around the time of August 15th, when Acadian National Day is celebrated with a Tintamarre Whichever way you choose to get there from Québec, you will wind up discovering either the northern or eastern part of New Brunswick. You may take the Trans-Canada after crossing through the Témiscouata district of Québec and the Saint John River valley all the way to Moncton. Or you can take the equally scenic Route 11 via Matapédia, which goes along the Gulf coast, both of which lead you into Acadian lands.
Antonine Maillet’s Great Loves
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s there any name more closely associated with Acadian culture than that of Antonine Maillet? When she created the now legendary character La Sagouine in the early 1970s, Maillet elevated Acadian French from slang to literature. A people without a defined territory, the Acadians are a French speaking population born by the Canadian Atlantic. After obtaining her PhD in literature from the Université Laval in 1970, Antonine Maillet taught literature and folklore at her alma mater, and later in Montréal from 1971 to 1976. She later worked for the French CBC (RadioCanada) as a screen-writer and radio host in Moncton. In 1976, she was honored as an Officer of the Order of Canada and was made a Companion of the Order in 1981. Her novel Pélagie-la-Charette (Pélagie-the-Cart), which tells the story of the Expulsion, i.e. the deportation of the Acadians by the British in 1755, won her the Prix Goncourt, which gives her the distinction as the only non-European (shared only with Atiq Rahimi) to have won the coveted literature prize. In the same year, the City of Outremont, which Maillet now calls home, renamed the rue Wilder avenue Antonine Maillet in honour of her Goncourt award, which is the
Antonine_maillet © films.onf.ca
equivalent to the Pulitzer or Booker Prize in France. In 1985, she was made an Officer of the Ordre des Arts et Lettres de France, and in 2005, was inducted into the Order of New Brunswick. Chancellor of the Université de Moncton, she is the author of many successful novels and plays. Her work is always inspired by the folklore and history of l’Acadie. In Ginette Pellerin’s 2011 documentary about Maillet, Les possibles sont infinis, the author spoke for the first time about the great love of her life, Mercédes Palomino, the cofounder of Montréal’s Théâtre du Rideau Vert (with Yvette Brind’amour), where her iconic La Sagouine was premièred in 1972. The masterwork will be performed there again in Oct 2012 by the original actress, Viola Léger, to mark the piece’s 40th anniversary. GQ l 295
acadia Tintamarre, Festival acadien de Caraquet © Brian Atkinson, CNB
Acadia
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aking the TransCanada east, you enter the Témiscouata region. Characterized by the hills and valleys of the upper Saint John River, this part of Québec gives way to as the Republic of Madawaska, a French-speaking part of the Appalachians boardered by New Brunswick, Québec, and the US State of Maine. Inhabitants of this woodland zone are know as Brayons, and are mostly descendents of Acadians who escaped deportation by the British in the 18th Century by taking refuge in the area, settling between Edmonston and Grand Falls. Geographically close to Québec, and historically Acadian, the Brayons have a culture all their own, and will host the Acadian World Congress in 2014 in partnership with Témiscouata Québeckers. 296 l GQ
If you travel via Matapédia on Route 11, you’ll drive through the main French speaking areas of the Acadian peninsula and the Baie des Chaleurs, before making your way to the South East, past the Miramichi River. The Acadian Peninsula is home to the bulk of the population, with around 100,000 inhabitants. The proud little town of Caraquet, with its historic Acadian village, is the heart and soul of the region famous for its gorgeous beaches and warm, friendly locals. Renowned pop singer Édith Butler hails from the town of Pacquetville, which you may come across on your journey.
Acadia
MONCTON and the Acadian shore
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Tourists are usually drawn to the beaches of the province’s South East, where the sea water is known for being the warmest north of Virginia. On the Bay of Fundy coast, you can observe the world’s highest tides, which reveal impressive tidal flats twice a day along the coast, and even in downtown Moncton, the region’s largest urban agglomeration. This bilingual city is almost a third francophone, and is home to many Acadian institutions such as the Université de Moncton. As a major hub city for rail and car transport to Nova Scotia and the Gulf islands, Moncton is likewise New Brunswick’s main centre for LGBT life. Triangles, the foremost gay and lesbian nightclub in the region, has been open for almost 20 years and is the go-to dance bar for Fri and Sat: they also host the closing dance party of Moncton’s
annual Fierté/Gay Pride celebrations in late August. There are a lot of gay-owned and gay-friendly businesses in the city and surrounding area. Only 20 km from Moncton, the charming seaside town of Shédiac and Cap-Pelé boast two of the region’s most beautiful beaches, such as Parlee Beach. Back in the South East, you won’t want to miss visiting Kouchibouguac National Park, which has some of New Brunswick’s most beautiful beaches. In Bouctouche, hometown of playwright laureate Antonine Maillet, you’ll find the historical theme park Le Pays de la Sagouine, inspired by the author’s feisty iconic character. This is also the area of New Brunswick where the Confederation Bridge links the province to Prince Edward Island, where you can catch the ferry that takes you to the Magdalene Islands. GQ l 297
Acadia 30 Fathom
506.321.4545 www.30fathom.com Handmade doormat made from reclaimed and new ropes uses for lobster fishery. A unique and original product available in many stores throughout Maritime Provinces. 506.532.6098 / 1.877.466.8496 www.innthyme.com A seven-room inn with a/c and private bath. The restaurant serves home-made dinners and dessert under a large outdoor covered terrace. Breakfast in the dining room. Auberge Inn Thyme
310, rue Main, Shédiac, NB, E4P 2E3
Auberge Le Vieux Presbytère de Bouctouche
506.743.5568 / 1.866-743.1880 www.vieuxpresbytere.nb.ca
157, chemin du Couvent, Bouctouche, NB, E4S 3B8
Built in 1880, this former rectory has a magnificent ocean view. 16 rooms, 2 suites, a restaurant and chapel for celebrating gay weddings. Minutes from the Eco-centre. 506.855.6767 / 1.866.856.6767 www.auberge-auboisdormant.com This inn offers luxury rooms, loft-style studios in a century-old home in downtown Moncton. Three course breakfasts.
Auberge Au Bois Dormant
67, rue John, Moncton, NB, E1C 2H2
Café Clémentine 241, boul. Saint-
506.384.4782
Georges, Moncton, E1C 1W2
A little café that makes superb coffee and fresh yummy food in a relaxed atmosphere with local artwork exhibited on the walls. 506.854.0220 www.lateraz.com This oasis of nature in the heart of Moncton has art galleries that can host any kind of event. The space can be rented for a wedding or any other fun or romantic event. La Téraz
154, rue Church, Moncton, NB. E1C 4Z7
Laundromat EspressoBar
506.382.6272
382 B, boul. Saint-Georges, Moncton. NB, E1C 1X2
This coffee bar is the favorite hang-out of Moncton’s francophone arts community. A menu of local charcuteries, micro-brew beers from around the world. Rivière de Fierté
www.fiertemonctonpride.ca
This non-profit organisation puts on LGBT Pride celebrations from August 17-21.
Triangles
506.857.8779 www.trianglesbar.com Open Thurs-Sun. For almost 20 years, this bar has been the most popular LGBT club in Moncton. With its large dance floor, dozen resident drag queens, their theme and karaoke nights. 234, boul. Saint-Georges, Moncton, NB, E1C 1V9
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Plages et Falaises Îles-De-La-Madeleine © Wikipedia.com
The Magdalen Islands
The Jewel of the gulf
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n the very middle of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the Magdalen Islands are a real jewel in Québec’s crown. Extending over 65 km from north to south, this archipelago of islands is linked by sand dunes, with sandstone cliffs of grey and red, and expanses of farmland to complete the picture. The Islands boast almost 300 km of fine sandy beaches, the most beautiful in all of Atlantic Canada. Although part of Québec, the Magdalen Islands are culturally closer to the Acadians. Indeed, most of the population are descendants from Acadian deportees from the 18th century. Don’t be surprised if you see the blue-white-and-red starred flag of the Acadians side by side with Québec’s fleur-de-lis.
the other Acadian communities of the Gulf, i.e. an hour later than the rest of Québec, which is on Eastern Standard (EST). Naturally, this hospitable sandbank in the middle of the Gulf has for centuries been the home of fisherman and their families, and the fishery pervades the culture here. Off the coast, unseen but somehow felt, 713 shipwrecks constitute the largest ocean cemetery in North America. Isolated as it is from the mainland, you can only get there by plane or boat. A ferry links this scenic spit of sand to Prince Edward Island, so you have to cross Québec and New Brunswick in order to get to the Magdalen Islands by car.
The Madelinots, as they are called, are on Atlantic Time (AST), as are GQ l 299
Auberge La Salicorne 377, Route 199, Grande-Entrée, G4T 7A5
418.985.2833 / 1.888.537.4537 www.salicorne.ca
An exceptional stay at La Salicorne is the opportunity to experience the islands through its inhabitants’eyes.
Gîte B&B La Butte Ronde 70, chemin des Buttes, Havre-aux-Maisons, G4T 5L3
418.969.2047 1.866.969.2047 www.labutteronde.com
This historic country school-house has been renovated to accommodate 5 spacious guest rooms overlooking the fabulous panorama of the harbour. Keep the relaxation going after you receive your treatment from a professional massage therapist.
Tourisme Îles-de-la-Madeleine 128, ch. Principal, Cap-aux-Meules, G4T 1C5
(418)986-4841 / 1-877-624-4437 Fax : (418)986-2327 www.tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com info@tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com
Visit the tourism office of the Magdelen Islands to get all the info you need about the activities going on during your stay.
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