24 GSCENE
CHARLIE’S
KITCHEN
BY CHARLIE NYEREYEGONA
CHARLIE’S CHEF & FOOD BUSINESS OF THE MONTH The Alcove, 51–55 Brunswick Street East, Hove, BN3 1AU 01273 770002, www.alcovehove.co.uk Those of you who know the Medicine Chest in the back streets of Brunswick are probably aware that in the last month it has evolved as the new fabulous Alcove, a French Gastro Restaurant & Cocktail Bar, which according to those in the know, is the definite place to be! My partner Alan and I celebrated five years together at the Alcove and from beginning to end it was a fabulous experience. We started off our evening with a delicious cocktail, East Meets West, containing such delights as saké, chilli water and lychee liquor and continued on with a mouth-watering three course gourmet menu including: pan seared local king scallops with a saffron mousseline; 21 day matured British beef fillet medallion with a wild mushroom sabayon and a mango and ginger parfait with toffee pear sauce and Amaretto biscotti complemented by an intercourse of Champagne and strawberry granite. Divine! In addition the service was excellent!
Who inspires you Sebastien? The old school, Paul Boucuse, Joel Robuchon... fantastic chefs, always evolving. I take traditional French basics at the heart of all French inspired cuisine and put my own twist on it. What are your favourite dishes on the menu? S: I am very proud of my broiled monkfish with crayfish, tarragon, beurre blanc and sun blushed tomato and baby spinach risotto. Some fishmongers will only fillet it and are afraid to cut it and shape it. This is what I do! (I had had it as my main at dinner and it was sublime!) So what else is on the menu at the Alcove? Mireille: We have just started our Moules et Frites night (mussels and chips, very delicious and very traditionally French) on a Wednesday; £14.95 plus a glass of wine or beer and a fabulous live band. On Tuesdays we are planning Cocktail Master classes with our mixologist, Dre and on Thursdays, Wine Master classes with our Sommelier, James; also at £14.95. Great value, I think. Our venue can also be hired in its entirety with a tailor-made menu or we can provide a special dinner for two in the snug or a canapé party in the bar. We want to emphasise that we are completely flexible and open to all suggestions! That is our point of difference. We have also applied for permission to hold civil ceremonies. Who is in the kitchen with you? S: I like to keep control and make sure that everything that goes out of my kitchen is to my high quality and standard. I do a lot of the prep myself but I have a great team that help me to produce the finished product!
I was so impressed that I decided to go behind the scenes and talk to Chef Sebastien Dupire and his lovely wife Mireille, co-owners of the business. How do you describe your style of cooking? Sebastien: French/British Contemporary How do you differentiate yourselves from other French style restaurants around you? S: We are all about creating a fantastic experience based on what specific customers want. We want everyone that comes to us for whatever occasion to be pampered. Almost everything from bread to terrines, foie gras, and pastry is made in house with my personal stamp on it. I am out to produce a quality, highly finished product. What is your role in the business Mireille? (Laughs) Everything besides the cooking! The organisation, administration, liaison, event planning, booking... plus bringing up a five-year-old and a two-year-old! I used to be in recruitment, so I have the gift of the gab. We work well as a team, our skills complement each other and we have a great relationship and a lot of fun! How did you start out in cooking? S: I grew up in a food family and so was interested in food from about the age of 5! I went to a renowned culinary school in France and specialised in pastry. I have 25 years experience in the business in 5 star establishments as far away as Alexandria in Egypt. Closer to home I was Head Chef at the L'Epicurean, two Rosette restaurant in Brighton, and before we opened the Medicine Chest, I was Executive Chef at the Mercure Hotel at Gatwick Airport.
Christmas is on its way, so what can we expect? M: We are offering a Christmas menu from November 29–January 12; £29 for 3 courses; £32 with a Kir Cassis; £35 with a Kir Cassis and 3 Citrus and Vodka Granite. Starters include: homemade beetroot and horseradish Scottish salmon gravadlax; mains: roast turkey breast with lemon and thyme stuffing and a vegetarian option of chestnut and leek stuffed brick pastry parcel with a tomato and caraway coulis; desserts: Christmas pudding baked alaska. The menu is designed for eight people or more but we are flexible! There is also a £10 food and drink voucher redeemable in January/February for the organiser of each party. I chatted to Sebastien and Mireille for over an hour and the time flew by. They are a delightful couple, focused on providing Brighton & Hove with a total bespoke experience from cocktails to wines to fabulous food and music. They are mega busy already so obviously their philosophy and hard work is already paying off. I thoroughly recommend a visit. You may even be able to persuade them to open for lunch for you! Happy Festive Season. Have a great one!