Fabric Swatch Book

FABRIC SWATCH

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Natural & Synthetic Fibers

NATURAL FABRICS

A natural fabric contains fibers made from animal or plantbased raw materials. They fall under two main classifications: protein and cellulose. Protein fibers are obtained from animals, like silk and wool. Cellulosic fibers are obtained from plants. Like cotton and flax. Asbestos and natural rubber, I considered mineral fibers but are rarely used. Natural fibers have been cultivated by humans for thousands of years and the production is dependent on the climate and geography. For example, the production of cotton is common inthesouthernUnitedStates.

Only natural fabrics start off as fibers, that are spun into yarn, and then created into greige fabric. Even though natural fibers are a renewable source they require chemicals such as sodium hydroxide, bleaches, and pesticides during production, and use alotofwaterandenergytobeproduced.

NATURAL FIBERS:

HISTORY

THE CULTIVATION OF COTTON STARTED IN INDIA AND SOUTH AMERICA.7000YEARSAGO,COTTON WAS IMPORTANT TO THE EARLY SOUTH AND CENTRAL AMERICAN PEOPLE, SUCH AS THE MOCHE AND NAZCA, WHO USED IT FOR FISHING NETS. THE HARAPPANS PRODUCE COTTON FABRIC 6000 YEARS AGO ANDTRADEDITWITHMESOPOTAMIA AND EGYPT. MEDIEVAL EUROPEANS INITIALLY USED IT FOR BATTING, BEFORE IT WAS MADE INTO YARN. UNFORTUNATELY, BRITAIN’S COLONIAL RULE OVER INDIA SABOTAGED THEIR COTTON PRODUCTION INDUSTRY. THE INDUSTRIAL REVOLUTION BOOSTED COTTON MANUFACTURING, MAKING BRITAIN ITS LEADING EXPORT. NEW MACHINES, SUCH AS THIS SPINNING FRAME (1769) AND THE COTTON GIN (1794) SPED UP THE PRODUCTION PROCESS..

COMFY ABSORBANT PERFECT IN ANY CLIMATE

MANCHESTER, NICKNAMED COTTONOPLIS, IMPLEMENTED A SUPPLY CHAIN SYSTEM, WHERE THEY PURCHASED RAW COTTON FIBERS CHEAPLY FROMCOLONIALPLANTATIONS,PROCESSEDTHEMIN LANCASHIREMILLS,ANDEXPORTEDTHEMTOAFRICA, INDIA,ANDCHINA.DURINGTHEAMERICANCIVILWAR PURCHASECOTTONFROMEGYPT,BUTTHEYRETURN TOCONFEDERATECOTTONAFTERTHEWAR.TOTHIS DAY,THEUNITEDSTATESISAMAJORPRODUCEROF COTTON, SECOND BEHIND CHINA, WHICH IS THE LARGESTPRODUCERANDCONSUMEROFCOTTON.

COTTON

TECHINICAL PROPERTIRES

COTTON IS THE SOFT FIBER THAT GROWSAROUNDTHESEEDSOFTHE PLANT. APPROXIMATELY 3 MONTHS AFTER COTTON IS PLANTED, A FLOWER WILL GROW AND FALL OFF, LEAVING A COTTON POD. IT HAS A MATTELUSTER,ASOFTDRAPE,ANDA SMOOTH, SOFT TOUCH, THEREFORE IT IS COMFORTABLE FOR EVERYDAY WEAR.ITHASANATURALTWISTAND MICROSCOPICALLY LOOKS LIKE A TWISTED RIBBON. COTTON IS STRONGANDABSORBSMOISTURE.IT CAN BE MACHINE WASHED AND DRIED BUT MAY SHRINK IF NOT PRETREATED. IT CAN BE DYED AND RETAINS ITS COLOR LONGER IF WASHEDINWARMORCOOLWATER. HOWEVER, COTTON IS DAMAGED BY ACIDS AND CAN TURN YELLOW BECAUSE OF OXIDATION FROM THE SUN.

FUNCTIONS

THEMOSTCOMMONLYUSEDFIBERISCOTTONAND ISUSEDINSEVERALKNITANDWOVENFABRICS.

ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS

THE DEMAND FOR COTTON HAS LED TO THE EXPLOITATION OF POOR COTTON FARMERS, POLLUTION,ANDINCREASEDUSEOFPESTICIDESAND INSECTICIDES.COTTONALSOUSESALOTOFWATER, “IT TAKES 6600 GALLONS OF WATER TO PRODUCE ONETONOFFIBER.”(HALLETT154)

FASHION USES

ORGANDY

GINGHAM

TERRY CLOTH

FLANNEL

DENIM

Natural Fibers:

HISTORY:

UsedduringtheStoneAge,linenis the oldest textile in the world and predates cotton and wool. It was first cultivated in Mesopotamia around 5000 to 6000 BC. It was traded by the ancient Egyptians, who cultivated a sophisticated linenindustry,thatwassocoveted itwasusedasaformofcurrency. Linen was seen as a symbol of wealth and was often used as shrouds for Pharaohs. In ancient Greece, it was used by soldiers as protective gear and in the medieval ages, Knights used it underchainmailasanextralayer ofprotectionagainstarrows.Since itisasymbolofpurity,itisstillused formakingreligiousvestments.

It was used for ruffs, embroidery, fine needle, and bobbin lace work. As well as making paper, binding books and for canvases. From the Renaissance to the 19th century, in Europe, linen was associatedwithwell,somuch so that a gentleman’s status was judged by his linen. A majorexporteratthetimewas Ireland, in fact Belfast was knownasLinenopolis.

Linen

It was a household item being used for intimate apparel, shirts, chemises,anddresses,aswellas bed,bathroom,table,andkitchen cloths,makingitthereasonforthe termlinencloset.DuringWorldWar I,itwasusedfortents,ropes,and canvases for airplanes. Linen, however, could not keep up with the demand of the war and was surpassed by cotton. After World War II, it was replaced by easycare synthetic fabrics because of the upkeep of linen fabric. It was still enjoyed in the Mediterranean in South American countries because of its comfort and coolness in hot temperatures. In the 90s linen gained popularity when it was combined with pretreatments, enzymes, and ammoniatomakeitwrinklefree.

ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS:

Flaxisenvironmentallyfriendly and fully biodegradable. With croprotation,itdoesn'trequire chemicalsorpesticides,unlike cotton. It is also stronger than cotton meaning it doesn't needtobereplacedasmuch.

PURE STRONG COOLING

TECHNICAL PROPERTIES

Linen is made from a flax/linseed plant. It takes 100 days for the planted flax to grow enough to be harvested when they are 24 to 48 inches tall. Flax fibers are the strongest of all plant fibers, it is two to three times stronger than cotton. It is stronger wet than dry and dries faster than cotton. The cross-section of the fiber looks like an irregular Polygon shape, which gives it a course crisp appearance. Natural flax looks like various shades of ivory, tan, or Gray. Linen isn't insulating or traps air, which makes it feel cool in warm climates. Because it is so stiff linen pulls away from the body which drives and eliminates perspiration. Linen has a longer staple then cotton And can range from 6 to 20 inches.

It is lint-free, doesn't pill, will last for a long time and it's stain resistant. The more it is worn and washed, the softer and smoother it becomes. It presses as well and resists humidity. It has no natural stretch but can resist damage from abrasion. It can absorb color well and remains colorfast for a long time. It deteriorates in acid and it's flammable. It does not build static electricity. It will not be eaten by bugs if it is unstarched.

FUNTIONS/ END USES

70% of linen is used for clothing while 30% is used for household textiles. It is used for summer clothing, tablecloths, napkins, placemats, draperies, wall coverings, and handbags. As well as making paper, binding books, and painting canvases.

FASHION USES

HISTORY

InancientChina,silkwascultivated fromthethreadsproducedbythe silkmoth.LegendhasitthatLady Hsi-Ling,wifeofHuangTi, accidentallydroppedasilkworm cocoonintoherteacup.Whenshe triedtotakeitoutshewasableto unwindthethread,discoveringsilk reeling.Theearliestexamplesof cultivatedsilkdatearound3000BC, andwereregardedasafrivolous task,whichwasrestrictedto women.

SOFT LUXURIOUS DESIRABLE

Itsoonbecamesofundamental toChineseculturethatonlythe emperorandtheimperialfamily andhidedignitarieswere allowedtowearit.Sericulture wasconfinedtoChinauntilthe SilkRoadwasestablishedand the2ndcenturyBC.China maintainamonopolyoversilk productionforanotherthousand years,withthesecretsToits creationbeingsafeguardedby theimperialfamily.Theytraded withtheGreeksandtheRomans. ItwassocovetedbytheRomans thatitcausedahugeoutflowof goldandstartedtoexceedthe priceofgold.Thepredictionof RosssinkinEuropewas attemptedinthe6thcentury.

FromthistheByzantinechurch becameknownfortheirelaborate textiles.Theknowledgeofits productionspreadacrossEurope bythe12thcentury,andsoonthe Italiansproducedthehighest qualitysilks.Fromthe1800sto afterWWII,Japanwasthelargest exporterofrawsilktotheWest.In India,itwaswonbytheuppercast forsaris,lehngas,shararas,and shalwarkameezzes.”Bythe1990s mildsilkproductionreached 81,000tons,Andallofthecountries historicallylinkedtothesilktrade, China,Japan,India,Thailand,Italy, Spain,andFrance,continueto makesilkstoday.”(Hallet112)

TECHNICALPROPERTIES

Silkisanaturalproteinfiber.Itis producedbytheBombyxmori mothpupabecausetheirsilksare afilamentthatissmooth,fine,and rounderthanothersilkmoths.Itis strongerthanwool,cotton,and steel.Itisresistanttomineralacid butcandissolveinsulfuricacid.It acceptsdyeswellbecauseofits highabsorption.Andinitspurest form,itcanlastlongerthanwhen mixedwithotherfibers.Itisapoor conductorofelectricity,meaningit issusceptibletostaticcling.Itis comfortabletowearincooland warmweatherbecauseofits isothermalandinsulative properties.

It has a luster and shimmering appearance because of the fibers' triangular prism structure, which reflects light. Wild silk is known to be uneven, rough, Bark like, slubby, and dry because it is shredded and torn by the emerging moth. Raw silk or silk noil, Are the short fibers leftover from combing silk. The fibers are short weak and less valuable than spun silk. They are dry, nubby, and have low shine.

FUNCTIONS

Silk is known for its drape, hand, and luster. It is used in apparel, such as dresses, blouses, lingerie, scars, and men's ties. As well as home furnishings in upholstery, tapestries and draperies.

ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS

Silk production has been criticized because silk cultivated from a cocoon kills the larvae. The silkworm dies which prevents them from living out their life cycle. An alternative is peace silk or vegetarian silk is silk cultivated from cocoons that silk molds have emerged naturally.

SPECIFIC APPAREL/FASHION USE

Silk fibers can be used in several different textiles. For fabrics with texture, silk can be made into brocade, jacquard, demask, velvet, and cloque. For structural fabrics, it can be made into shantung, tussah, dupion, taffeta, moire, Satin, and Duchesse. In sheer fabrics like chiffon, georgette, tulle, gauze, and organza. And drapey fabrics like charmeuse, jersey, crepe, and crepe de chine.

FASHION USES

SIILK NOIL

PURE SILK

WILD SILK

Natural Fabrics:

However, by the end of WWII, synthetic fibers rose in popularity. Acrylic and polyester were developed to substitute wool. But by the mid-60s, well began A revival because of the desire for naturalandtraditionalfibers.Todaywoolismixed with synthetic fibers to accommodate modern lifestyles.

TECHNICAL PROPERTIES

Wool is made of keratin, just like hair and nails. It normally is a cream color but can be brown, black, or silver. And it has a low luster shrink resistance and strength. When wool is still on a sheepitiscoatedinlanolin,whichisremovedand collected during washing. It is used in cosmetics, skin ointment, and waterproof wax. It has a naturalcrimp,thattrapsairmakingitinsulating.It alsohelpswoolretainitsshape.

HISTORY

Wool has a history that can be tracked back tens of thousands of years, in China and Egypt. Inspired by the animals that produced it, it was felted by wetting, massaging, and pressing the wool into a matted blanket. It could vary in thickness and be molded into shape. It was the first animal fiber to be woven. In Rome, the carding process was invented to brush, tease, and comb the fibers so they could be aligned to spin and weave into yarn. The Romans also bred sheep to provide better-quality wool. During the medieval period, wool was England’s primary andmostvaluableexport.SpanishMarinosheep wool became a desirable breed, because of its finer quality fleece. They sent these sheep to Australia because the dry climate Was perfect for wool cultivation. By the industrial revolution, Australia became a world leader in the productionofwool.

The outside of the fiber is hydrophobic, and the inside is hygroscopic meaning that it can trap water without feeling wet. Wool has a natural flame resistance and doesn't ignite until 90 degrees Celsius. When it has been treated with lanolin, it is water-resistant, antibacterial, and air permeable. This helps to wick away odor. It can be damaged by heavy-duty laundry detergents, chlorine, dry heat, insects, and sunlight.

FUNCTIONS

It is used in wool suits, sweaters, and other cold-weather garments. As well as home furnishings, carpeting, upholstery fabrics, blankets, and draperies

SOFT COZY WARM

ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS

Wool can be recycled by mixing old wool with new wool or alternative fibers. The recovery process tends to create shorter fibers which are difficult for re-spinning, therefore recycled wool is often used as weft yarns. The fibers can alternatively be used for mattress production or use for filling in car insulation, roofing, or loudspeaker cones.

SPECIFIC APPAREL/FASHION USE

It can be used in fabrics like tweed, gabardine, herringbone, tartan plaids, flannel, boucle, georgette, and challis.

FASHION USES

@REALLYGREATSITE

HERRINGBONE

TWEED

HOUNDSTOOTH

FELT

GUAZE

TWILL

DOUBLE FACED CHECK

SYNTHETIC FABRICS

Synthetic fibers are man-made fibers created for a specific functionandenduse.Itreferstothesynthesisoftwoormore elements to create a new compound. Most are melt spun and can be modified by changing spinning solutions, spinning methods, formulations, and finishes. Synthetic fibers are made from chemicals derived from fossil fuels such as oil and coal. Plant cellulose fibers are regenerated from natural sources such as wood and use chemicals to create fibers.

Bioengineeredfibersuseproteins,sugars,orstarchestocreate fibers. “Now 70% of all global fiber production is man-made fibers.” (Hallet 182) China is the main producer of man-made fibers. At first, synthetic fibers got their origins with the development of cellulose acetate and rayon. But the true first artificial fiber was nylon which was developed as a cheap alternative to silk. Synthetic fibers can have round, oval, dog bone, flat, star-shaped, triangular, serrated, tri or multilobular,orhollowcrossections.

They can be lustrous, soft, smooth, harsh, stretchy, loopy, bulky, insulating, crimped, dull, or transparent. Most are white, unless they are solution or dope dyed. They are spun as filaments and then cut to staple length. They tend to pill, have poor absorbency, are heat sensitive, and are chemical resistant. They don’t degrade unless it is by the sun. Some common uses are for apparel, furnishing,andindustry.

SYNTHETIC FIBERS

HISTORY:

POLYESTER WAS DISCOVERED AND PATENTED IN 1941 BY JOHN REX WHINFELD AND JAMES TENNANT DICKSON. IN 1953, DU PONT PURCHASED THE US RIGHTS TO THE PATTERNANDTRADEDITUNDERTHE NAME DACRON. IT ROSE TO POPULARITY AFTER WORLD WAR II, BECAUSE OF THE DESIRE FOR EASY CARE AND MASS CONSUMERISM. IT WAS ORIGINALLY SEEN AS A CHEAP FABRICANDSEPARATEDTHESOCIAL CLASSES. IT WAS ORIGINALLY MANUFACTUREDASANALTERNATIVE TO COTTON AND WOOL. BUT IT COULDN'T COMPETE WITH THE TACTILE PROPERTIES OF THE NATURAL FIBERS. THEREFORE WHEN POLYESTERANDNATURALFIBERSARE BLENDED TOGETHER, YOU GET THE PROPERTIESOFTHENATURALFIBERS AS WELL AS THE STRENGTH, STABILITY,ANDEASEOFPOLYESTER.

IT IS PROMINENT IN SPORTSWEAR BECAUSE THE FIBERSARESTRONG,STAINRESISTANT,ANDDOESN'T ABSORB MOISTURE. THE TERM POLYESTER COMES FROMTHEWORDPOLY,MEANINGMANY,ANDESTER, MEANING A CHEMICAL COMPOUND DERIVED FROM OIL. “OVER 50% OF POLYESTER PRODUCED IS DESTINEDFORFIBERPRODUCTION.”(HALLET189)

POLYESTER

TECHINICAL PROPERTIRES

POLYESTER IS A MELT-SPUN FIBER. POLYETHYLENE TEREPHTHALATE (PET) IS THE MOST COMMON. IT IS SOURCED FROM PLASTIC BOTTLES AND PRE AND POST-CONSUMER WASTE. IT IS A WHITE FIBER MADE INTO MANY DIFFERENT CROSS SECTIONS; ROUND, MULTILOBULAR, OVAL, AND HOLLOW. IT CAN HAVE DIFFERENTAMOUNTSOFCRIMPAND LUSTER,ASWELLASBEAFILAMENT, STAPLE,ORTOWFIBER.ITISSTRONG BUT CAN PILL. SHRINKING MAY OCCURIFITHASNOTBEENHEATSET. IT HAS LOW ABSORBENCY AND AVERAGEWICKINGABILITY.ITISNOT HARMED BY ACID, BLEACHES, OR DETERGENTS.ITDOESNOTCONDUCT ELECTRICITY SO IT DOES NOT HAVE STATIC CLING. POLYESTER IS HEAT SENSITIVE AND CAN CREASE EASILY WITHANIRON.MILDEWANDINSECTS AND AGE WILL NOT DEGRADE POLYESTER, BUT THE SUN CAN DAMAGEIT.

FUNCTIONS

POLYESTER IS THE MOST WIDELY USED MAN-MADE FIBER, EITHER BY ITSELF OR BLENDED WITH OTHER FIBERS. IT IS USED IN APPAREL, IN KNITS, WOVENS, AND NONWOVENS FOR UNDERWEAR, CASUAL AND FORMAL WEAR, UNIFORMS AND OUTERWEAR, SPORTSWEAR, AND RAINWEAR. IN FURNISHINGS, IT CANBEUSEDINSHEETSANDBEDDINGS,CURTAINS, TABLELINENS,ANDUPHOLSTERYFABRICS.ITCANBE A SUBSTITUTE FOR DOWN IN PILLOWS, COMFORTERS, SLEEPING BAGS, AND QUILTED FABRICS.YOUCANALSOBEUSEDINCARPETINGAND IT'S CHEAPER THAN NYLON. AND POLYESTER’S INDUSTRIAL USES ARE TIRE CORDS, ROPES, SAILS, ANDFILTERS.

FASHION USES

ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS

It can take 700 years before plastic bottles start to decompose and then landfill. Cycled polyester can keep billions of plastic bottles from landfills. Some brands such as Patagonia and Henry Lloyd are collecting their old products to be recycled. Using discarded plastic saves a third of the energy it would take to produce the same product with virgin polyester. Air pollution is reduced by 85% with the production of recycled polyester.” (Elsasser 103)

SPECIFIC APPAREL/FASHION USE

It can be used in fabrics like Terylene/Dacron, Ultrasuede/Alcantara, Nanofront/Sorona, and S. Café. It is also used in micro and nanofibers.

CHIFFON

CHARMEUSE

Synthetic Fibers:

HISTORY

Nylon was the first successful syntheticpolymer.Itwasinvented, in 1935, by Wallace Carothers at DuPont,toreplacesilk. Itwentinto generalproductioninthe1940sbut becauseofWWII,theproductionof nylon for stockings ceased and was diverted to making parachutes.Itwassuchasuccess after World War II, that stockings areoftenreferredtoasnylons.The demandfornylonstockingswasso great that riots were commonplace when stores were out of stock. Two trademarked fibers are called Tactel, Cordura, andGore-Tex.

TECHNICALPROPERTIES

Nylon is referred to as polyamide 6,6 or polyamide 6, meaning the number of carbon atoms in each monomerunit.Itismelt-spunand created from the byproducts of petroleum industry waste materials. Nylon is light but also durable and resistant to abrasion. Itishighandluster,elastic,easyto wash, quick drying, and good shape retention. The nylon fiber is transparent and has a round cross-section.

Nylon

It can vary in luster and be textured. It can pill easily and shrink or glaze in high heat. Highdenierfabricisstiffandhasapoor drape.Ithasgoodabsorbencybut it is hydrophobic and uncomfortable in warm humid weather. It can dissolve in strong acidsAndconductselectricitywell. Itcanbewashedanddrycleaned. It can degrade from sunlight but will not be attacked by insects or mildew.

ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS

Nylondoesn'tbiodegradeandalso createsgreenhousegases,nitrous oxide, during production. However, nylon apparel is normally durable and reusable and Tactel can be recycled.

FUNCTIONS/ END USES

Itisusedincarpets,women's hosiery, Tire cord, upholstery fabrics, clutch pads, brake linings, bells, ropes, parachute fabricandluggage.

FASHION USES

POINT D'ESPRIT

ORGANZA

RIBSTOP

HISTORY

Acrylicwaspartofthe1950seasycareclothingcraze.Itwasfirst synthesizedinthe19thcenturybut wasusedforfabricandthe20th centurybecauseofOttoRohm. DuPontstarteddevelopingacrylic fibersduringthe1940sandbegan marketingOrlon,Acrilan,and Creslan. Itwasn'tuntilthe1950s, whentheUS,UK,andGermany startedmarketingitcompletely, afterperfectinghowtospinand dyeit.Andthelargestproducerof acrylictodayis MontefiberSpA, underthenameLEACRIL.

TECHNICALPROPERTIES

AcrylicIsmadefromrepeating chainsofacrylonitrile,anoilbasedchemicalcreatedfroma polymerizedformof polyacrylonitrile.Ithasahighloft andwarmwooltexture.Butithasa tendencytopill.That'sfunacrylics havearoundorbeam-shaped cross-section.Dryspunacrylics havea dogbone-shapedcrosssection.Wet-spunacrylicshave goodresilience,butdry-spun acrylicsaresoftandlustrous.Most acryliciscrimped,likewool,but canalsobesmoothortwisted.The fiberisnormallystapleortow length.

Ithasgoodshaperetention,lowwater absorption,lowelectricconductivity,and canwickawaymoisture.Itislightweight, resistant,durable,elastic,bulky,and easytocarefor.Itcandegradeinnitric acid,sodiumhydroxide,andbleach.It candiscolorinhighheatandshrinkin steam.Itisresistanttomocks,mildew, sunlight,andcreasing.

ENVIRONMENTALEFFECTS

Acrylamideisapossiblecarcinogenand cancauseneurotoxicity.Acrylicisalso energyintensivetocreate,itcan'tbe recycled,anddoesn'tbiodegrade.Itis theleastsustainabletextileanduses176 cubicfeetofwatertocreateonetonof Dralon.

FUNCTIONS/ENDUSES

Acrylicwasusedasawool substituteandcanbeusedin sweaters,socks,andblankets.But whentreatedwithantifungal properties,itcanbeusedin nursinguniformsandsurgical fabrics.Itcanbeusedin sportswearclothing,suchas fleecetops,andrunningwear.For furnishings,itisusedinupholstery fabrics,andcarpeting,draperies, awnings,tents,tarps,andoutdoor furniture.Itisoftenusedincraft yarns.InModacrylisisUsedin flyingretardantgarments, children’sandbabyclothing,toys, fakefur,andwigs.

FASHION USES

FAUX FUR

THERMAL BLANKET

FELT

Synthetic Fabrics:

Spandex

Spandex has poor abrasion and tenacity, but it's stronger than natural rubber. Spandex is heavier than natural rubber but can be made to have a finer denier. It has poor absorbency but can be dyed, unlike natural rubber. It can resist chemicals,perspiration,andoil.However,chlorine can degrade it. Fabric spandex can stretch three to seven times their natural size, and return back to normal. It is made of long polymer chains that are coiled when relaxed and straightened when stretched out. An elastic yarn is when spandex is used as a core fiber that is covered by another fiber. This can resist abrasion, and give bulk and the properties of the covering fiber with the stretch of the spandex. It is resistant to insects andmoldbutwillturnyellowinsunlight.

HISTORY

Spandex was discovered by Otto Bayer in Germany during the 1930s. But Dupont’s William Hanford and Donald Holmes modernized the process in the 1940s. Which was later used by chemist Joseph Shivers, to create fibers, in 1959. It was originally created to replace latex rubber incorsetryandunderwear.

TECHNICAL PROPERTIES

Also named Elastane, spandex is melt-spun or solvent-spun. It is white or gray, with no luster. Thecross-sectioncanberound,peanut,aredog bone shaped. The fiber can be smooth or serrated and can be a monofilament or multifilament.

FASHION USES

ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS

It is made from petroleum, uses a lot of energy to create, and can cause micro plastics when washed.

FUNCTIONS/END USE

Spandex is used in a lot of sportwear, which is normally made from knitted fabrics because of its natural stretch. In woven fabrics it can be used in the weft or warp yarns or both. It is used in underwear, swimsuits, Lace, leggings, dancewear, fitted sheets, slip covers and hosiery. It is marketed as LYCRA

SYNTHETIC FABRICS: ACETATE

HISTORY

ACETATEWASCREATEDINTHE1860S FROM CELLULOSE. IT WAS USED TO REPLACE SILK, ALSO KNOWN AS RAYON OR VISCOUS, AND THE FIRST ARTIFICIAL FIBER. THE NAME COMES FROM THE ACETIC ACID THAT DISSOLVES THE WOOD PULP. IN THE 1920S, CELANESE CORPORATION, A BRITISH FACTORY STARTED PRODUCING ACETATE YARN. ITS EARLIEST SUCCESSFUL FABRIC WAS MOIRE.

TECHINICAL PROPERTIRES

ACETATEISSMOOTHANDSOFTWITH A GOOD DRAPE. IT HAS POOR ABRASIONRESISTANCEBUTDOESN'T PILL. IT DRIES QUICKLY AND IS HYPOALLERGENIC. IT WICKS MOISTURE AND CANNOT BE DYED, UNLESSWHENUSINGDISPERSEDYES.

ITMELTSANDHIGHHEATANDTHEFIBERSAREDRYSPUN. THE FIBER IS WHITE, STRIATED, AND HAS AN IRREGULAR CROSS-SECTION. IT IS LUSTROUS BUT CANBEDULL.ITISVERYWEAKWHENWET,ANDHAS POORRESISTANCETOABRASION,POORELASTICITY, ANDRESILIENCE.ITCANSHRINKINLAUNDRYANDIN HIGH TEMPERATURES BUT CAN BE TREATED TO PREVENT SHRINKING. ACETATE CAN FADE FROM POLLUTION AND CAN DEGRADE FROM SILVERFISH, SUNLIGHT,ANDMILDEW.

FASHION USES

ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS

Acetate is relatively environmentally friendly. It is made from cellulose fibers of wood pulp, usually from forests. There are no fertilizers or pesticides used. Cellulose can also come from beach and eucalyptus.

FUNCTIONS/END USE

Acetate is often used in linings. It can be used in dresses, lingerie, and robes. Used in taffeta, satin, moire, and brocade. It can also be used in drapery, and filters.

TAFFETA

BRIDAL SATIN

Synthetic Fibers:

lyocell

HISTORY

Created by Lenzing AG, in the 1990s,underthenameTencel.

TECHNICALPROPERTIES

Lyocell is a variation of rayon, where a cellulose fiber is created through a solvent-spinning process,whereasolventdissolves wood pulp. It is less prone to shrinkage and is stronger than rayon.Lyocell’scrystallinestructure gives the fiber tensile strength, volume,andsoftness.Thefilament fibers have a good drape and luster. The fiber is round and smooth.

Duringtheproductionprocess,fibrils can form, which give the fabric a peach skin appearance. It is naturally prone to pilling and can’t absorb dyes. Abrasion can cause morefibrilstoform.

FUNCTIONS/ENDUSES

Lyocellisusedinwovensandknitsin garments like blouses, shirts, pants, and dresses. It is often blended with otherfibers.

FASHION USES

ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS

Lyocell’s production process is environmentally friendly and is made from sustainable raw materials. It uses less land and water than other fabrics and is biodegradable. However harsh chemicals are used to help with pilling and dye absorption. The production process can be expensive

LYOCELL KNIT

HISTORY

Rayonishefirstman-madefiber, createdtosimulatesilk.Itrefersto fibersmaderegeneratedcellulose, usingtherayonprocess.Itwas createdbytheSwisschemist, GeorgeAudemars,inthe1850s.In the1890s,acommerciallyviable formofproducingrayonwas createdbyinventorsinBritain.The namescomesfromtheFrench wordforrayofsunlightandviscose comesfromtheproduction process.

TECHNICALPROPERTIES

Rayonissoft,smoothand absorbent.Itdoesn'tinsulate,but takesdyeswell.Itislustrousbut canbemadedull.Itisweakwhen wet,andthereforeshouldbedry cleaned.Itisn'tveryelasticor resilient,soitwrinkles.Itdoesn’tpill andiswetspun.Itismadefrom eucalyptus,pine,orsprucetrees.It iwsawhitefiberwithirregular shapedcrosssection.Itisnot strongandcanabradeeasily.It canshrinkinthelaundry.Itcan degradeinacids,alkalines,from insectsandthesun

FASHION USES

ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS

The production of rayon releases carbon disulfide in the air, salt in the water, and damaging to the rainforest. Rayon can decay more easily than cotton. There is research going into more sustainable options, such as lyocell.

FUNCTIONS/END USE

Rayon is made into woven fabrics and is used in dresses, shirts, suits, lingerie and sportswear. It can be used as linings. It can also be used in furnishings, such as blankets, tablecloth, bedspreads, slip covers, curtains and upholstery fabrics.

TAFFETA

BRIDAL SATIN

Synthetic Fabrics:

Modal

FUNCTIONS

Itisusedinknits,lingerie,sleepwear,andsocks.

ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS

Modal’s production process is environmentally friendly and is made from sustainable raw materials.

HISTORY

Created by Lenzing AG, in the 1960s. It initially used harsh chemicals but chemists found a way tomakeitwithrecyclablenontoxicsubstances.

TECHNICAL PROPERTIES

Modal is made from beech trees, which are sustainable and pest resistant. The production is carbon neutral, chemicals are recycled, and bleaching is done with oxygen technology. Modal is biodegradable and retains softness. It is stronger and resilient than viscose rayon, but not as absorbent. It is resistant to warping when wet. The fiber has a round cross-section. It can bewashedanddrycleaned.

FASHION USES

LENZING MODAL RAYON KNIT

WORK CITED

Elsasser, Virginia H. Textiles: Concepts and Principles.

Fairchild Publications, New York, NY, 2005.

Hallett, Clive, Amanda Johnston, and Myka Baum. Fabric for Fashion: The Complete Guide : Natural and Man-made Fibers.

Laurence King Pub, London, 2014.