GASTRONOMY WINE
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range to the east, and legendary Mt Ida in between. Up there, the mild temperatures and the large fluctuations between day and night temperatures enable the production of more structured wines with pure, complex flavor profiles and greater retention of natural acidity. Despite its great diversity, the soil in most viticultural areas is made up of clay and limestone, the latter being associated with superior quality in white wines because it imposes a gentle water stress on the plants. The naturally high-yield Vilana variety, which covers a fifth of the total area planted with vineyards, is undisputedly the queen of the whites. When cultivated at higher elevations and with lower yields, it expresses all its virtues, producing fruity wines with a balanced structure and the complex taste of ripe fruit and herbs. Some winemakers, seeking a more refined product, have adopted the single vineyard approach. The production of creamy Vidiano, the rising star of Cretan grape varieties (with a distinctive flavor and subtle aroma reminiscent of Viognier), is only half that of Vilana. The wine producers Miliarakis, Lyrarakis, Idaia, Douloufakis, Karavitakis and Diamantakis, among others, all produce sound examples of this grape. Marked by depth of fruit, freshness and clear floral and apricot aromas, its character is winning over ever more wine lovers. Indeed, 204
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many producers who see the potential in this variety are investing in it outside Crete as well. Assyrtiko also seems to be making a dynamic appearance on the island, with the wineries Lyrarakis, Manousakis, Oikonomou, and Paterianakis achieving exciting results. The array of white grapes is completed by the aromatic Spinas Muscat, a clone of the small white Muscat grape, the equally aromatic Malvasia Candia and, in limited plantings, the varieties Dafni and Plyto. Special mention must be made of Dafni’s unmistakable aromatic profile of laurel and fennel, expressive of great individuality and character. Moving on to darker wine varieties, which make up the majority of the grapes grown in Cretan vineyards, the late-ripening Mandilaria and the Kotsifali, both high-yielding, are dominant. They produce wines of a somewhat more rustic character and often appear together in a blend, each one compensating for the weaknesses of the other. The more refined (and paler in color) Liatiko yields both dry and sweet wines. The dry wine, with its aromatic expression, moderate tannins and acidity, appears to have many of the qualities of a Pinot Noir. Excellent examples with aging potential are produced by Nikos Douloufakis in Dafnes, and by Idaia Winery and Domaine Econ-
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01. The cellar at the Lyrarakis Winery in Alagni, awarded a Certificate of Excellence by Tripadvisor. 02. Maria Tamiolaki and Dimitris Mansolas, of Rhous Winery. 03. Full of apricot and peach aromas, round and rich in the mouth, Vidiano is a Cretan gem that is fascinating in all its manifestations.