Taste
THE BUZZ
PHOTO BY BRENT FUCHS.
WHISKEY CAKE KITCHEN AND BAR
Packard’s executive chef Mitchell Dunzy, center, is flanked by sous chefs Chad Epley and Chris Horn.
the space it was a shell with windows, drywall interior walls, and chipped linoleum tile. We were pleasantly surprised to uncover the original black, white and red marble mosaic floor, which was hand-laid in 1925 as the Packard automobile showroom floor…there are still imperfections, but we like that it gives the space a sense of history and character.” Just as important as the ambience at Packard’s is the food, of course. Ross says the restaurant aims to marry Oklahoma City’s new trend in fine dining with its working class roots. “‘New American Kitchen’ describes Packard’s in that it is offering a fresh and updated look at food that has become great American fare,” Ross says. “It is food that is exceptional and yet comfortable, aims for perfection without pretentiousness, and depending on little more than the time of day, one can dine wearing jean shorts or a black tie.” Among the difficult choices facing diners are such offerings as pan-seared grouper, pasta carbonara and the most popular offering so far, the pesto pork chop. Not to be overlooked is the restaurant’s impressive cocktails menu, including the Pack Mule – the restaurant’s personal take on a Moscow mule – and the Panhandler: a bourbon cocktail boasting COOP Gran Sport Porter, maple, lemon and torched rosemary. The cocktails aren’t the only offerings with plenty of local flavor. Packard’s sources as many ingredients locally as possible, from dairy and coffee to produce and protein. Ross is proud that Packard’s is the newest member of Midtown’s revitalization. “The shared sense of positive change in the area is palpable,” he says. “Everyone knows that they are part of something bigger happening in OKC. It is exciting to be a part of it, and I can’t wait to see the process of change unfold.” 201 NW 10th St., Oklahoma City. www.packardsokc.com TARA MALONE
The B.E.L.T. at Whiskey Cake is served with house-made potato chips.
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OKLAHOMA MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2013
Among the recently established restaurants in Oklahoma City that specialize in farm-to-table fare, Whiskey Cake Kitchen and Bar has thrown in its hat. Originally established in Plano, Texas, this American-as-bourbon establishment boasts a formidable example of its namesake: a toffee torte cake with whiskey, spiced pecans and whipped cream. But despite the quaint feel of the name, don’t be fooled. While traditional Southern fare is on the table, like fried green tomatoes and pulled-pork sliders, Whiskey Kitchen offers some non-conventional options for more adventurous diners, including pork belly ramen, smoked duck with quinoa and the edamame-and-mushroom burger. There is a wealth of drink options from which to choose, including some based around local ingredients, such as the Tracy’s Garden cocktail with locally grown
basil. Other parts of the drink menu have a distinctly New Orleans flair, including the mint julep, the Sazerac and the Vieux Carré. Prices are roughly par for the course for farm-to-table dining, but caution for drinkers: the “rocks charge” is in full effect here, and that extra count will cost you $2 per drink. 1845 Northwest Expressway, Oklahoma City. www.whiskeycakeokc.com – Tara Malone
FAV E S
SHISH-KABOB & GRILL
“You must try the falafel! It’s so good,” Sourena Afshar, a dapper man with elegant, elongated eyeglasses and a carefully trimmed goatee. The owner, with his wife Shadi, of Shish-Kabob, is excited about the food he serves, and with reason. The falafel, crisp and crunchy with a hint of exotic spice, is superb, and so are other Middle Eastern appetizers like the sprightly tabouli and smoky baba ganoush. But it’s the Persian dishes that are the stars at this cozy, welcoming corner of east Tulsa. Growing up in Tehran, Shadi was schooled in cooking by her mother and sisters and, Sourena admits, The falafel are served with stuffed grape leaves and Shish-Kabob’s signature fluffy rice. PHOTO BY BRANDON SCOTT.
“I learned from my mom, too.” The Iranian food you’ll eat here is a blend and synthesis of these family recipes. Try the lamb shank: “It’s unique,” says Sourena. Small yet meaty lamb shanks specially ordered from California are simmered for three hours. Impossibly tender and bursting with flavor, the shanks are accented by the subtle blend of spices and tomato in the sauce. The fluffy rice that accompanies the lamb is a delicious meal on its own. It’s cooked in the Iranian fashion: first soaked, then boiled, then drained and finally steamed. This fabulous rice comes with all entrees, including the stews for which Iranian cuisine is famous. Ghormeh sabzi, one such stew, is a piquant blend of spinach, parsley, cilantro, dry lemon and fenugreek. “I cook the best ghormeh sabzi you’ll ever find,” declares Shadi. True to the name, there’s a full range of kebabs. The koobideh features minced meat, onions and a secret blend of spices which, Sourena assures us will make all other kebabs seem tasteless. 11605 E. 31st St., Tulsa. 918.663.9383 – Brian Schwartz