www.hessen.travel
Nature, Countryside, Hessen.
TRAVEL AND ADVENTURE TIPS FROM THE HESSIAN REGIONS
Bergstraร e-Odenwald, Frankfurt Rhine-Main, Lahntal, Northern Hessen, Rheingau, Rhรถn, Spessart, Taunus, Vogelsberg, Westerwald
EXPERIENCING NATURE IN HESSEN
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HESSEN Editorial and arrival
Welcome to the nature of Hessen!
Hessen, that stands for some of the last old beech forests in Europe, blossoming orchards, bizarre volcanic landscapes, idyllic low mountain ranges, ecologically valuable floodplain landscapes and romantic river valleys, water, woodland and wine. The experiences in Hessen as a tourist destination are as varied as nature itself. Each of the ten Hessian regions are characterised by typical regional products and traditions. You can experience this nature everywhere – be it hiking, walking or cycling. They all offer wonderful hiking trails, varied cycle routes and attractive places of interest. There are plenty of great places to stop for a bite to eat along the routes – no matter whether you fancy a light snack or a sumptuous meal with regional produce. More and more of this produce is also grown organically as Hessen is the national leader in organic farming. Comfortable hotels and family-run guest houses also offer a warm welcome to guests. What’s more, the brochure also offers tips and contains activities for your main holiday, your short break or simply a delightful weekend excursion. We invite you to experience Hessen as a travel destination. Welcome to the nature of Hessen!
Further inspiration, information and impressions can be found on our website: www.hessen-tourismus.de
Priska Hinz Hessian Minister for the Environment, Climate Protection, Agriculture and Consumer Protection
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Many roads lead to Hessen. And getting here is usually really easy. Frankfurt Airport is a hub for international air traffic. There is barely a country in the world that Hessen does not welcome. From London, the flight takes just over an hour. High-speed railway lines from north to south and east to west cross in Kassel, Fulda and Frankfurt. Motorways, main roads, and even river cruises provide fast connections to neighbouring metropolitan regions.
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EXPERIENCING NATURE IN HESSEN Contents
2 Map
The Hessian regions, nature and national parks
3 Editorial/arrival 4 Contents
Picture credits
Northern Hessen 5
Rustic red beech forests, hearty Ahle Wurscht sausage, half-timbered houses and mysterious fairy-tale worlds
Rhön sheep and Dark Sky Reserve
The Rhön sheep feels on top of the world in its homeland – both day and night.
The Vogelsberg 11
Hiking on Europe’s largest volcano massif
Mystical forest
Have you ever dived into the green Spessart mountains? Forest bathing is the new trend.
Riesling and apples
The crunchy fruits contain a regional cultural treasure.
Frankfurt Rhine-Main 20
Green belt and green sauce
Frankfurt’s front garden attracts cyclists, hikers and pleasure-seekers to the countryside.
The Taunus 23
The Lahntal
32 Nature experience
water
Paddlers, hikers, cyclists, they all love the Lahn and its side valleys.
Service 35 Contacts
Contact details of the regional tourism associations, nature parks and gourmet landscapes
Imprint
Cultural diversity
Great (hi)story in a small space. Celts, Romans, emperors – they all shaped the region.
The Rheingau 26
Fiery past
The Spessart 14
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A feast for the senses
The Rhön 8
Bergstraße–Odenwald
Vineyard tours and monasteries
Those who hike in the Rheingau will always come across monasteries and vineyards. Or both.
Printed on 100% recycled paper
The Westerwald
Picture credits: Christian Müringer (26), Christina
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Hessen/Paavo Blåfield (5, 6 (2), 7 l.), Heiko Bogun (21
Active in nature
The Westerwald stands for walking, wind and water – and for unforgettable cycling tours.
Marx (11 t.r., 12 t., 13 b.), European Cyclists’ Federation, Demarrage LTMA (28 t.), GrimmHeimat Nordt.r.), Hartmut Greb (12 b., 13 t.), Lahntal Tourismus Verband e.V. (32, 33 c./b., 34 (2)), Sandra Schuberth (7 b.r.), Stadtmarketing Herborn GmbH/Michael Menk (31 l.), Jürgen Steuber (11 t.l.), Spessart Tourismus/ Claus Tews (14-16), Taunus Touristik Service e.V. (25), Armin Treusch (17), #visitfrankfurt, Holger Ullmann (21 t.l., 22 (2)), Volker Oehl (27 t.), Westerwald Touristik Service/Dominik Ketz (29, 31 t.r/b.r.), Wolfgang Blum (27 b., 28 b.), All other photos: HA Hessen Agentur GmbH/Paavo Blåfield
NORTHERN HESSEN A feast for the senses
NORTHERN HESSEN
Like in a fairy-tale (book) Be it a hike through Hessen’s national park, the smell of the sausage speciality Ahle Wurscht, a stroll through the fairy-tale worlds of the famous Brothers Grimm or through the towns full of half-timbered houses – Northern Hessen is a feast for the senses. Mighty silvery-grey beech trunks with large canopies, gnarled oaks and maple trees – they all tell of a centuries-old forest landscape, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its beech trees. The Hessian national park, the centrepiece of the nature park of the same name, protects one of the last large beech forests in Europe. Twenty well-marked circular hiking trails lead partly over hill and dale. The Edersee lake shimmers through the treetops again and again, enticing you with excellent water quality and good bathing opportunities.
There is an endless array of half-timbered towns in Northern Hessen. They form the picturesque setting for regional arts and crafts and traditional expertise.
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Top: Hessen’s forests were a source of inspiration for many of the Grimm fairy tales, including for Little Red Riding Hood. Right: Splendid half-timbered architecture: the town hall of Frankenberg was built around 1510.
Besides the smell of the forest, a Hessian “Seeing, hearing, smelling, Gentle low mountain ranges, mighty speciality will also seduce your nose and castles, romantic palaces, dark forests feeling, tasting: The five palate – Ahle Wurscht. The fragrance, the most important virtues of the and rustic half-timbered villages inspire flavour, unfolds gradually until a fine and visitors from all over the world. The forest walker.” characterful taste finally develops on the half-timbered style developed in the palate, mixed with the spice of black peplate Middle Ages still represents beauty per and a hint of garlic or caraway. Ahle Wurscht is culturand solid construction today. The façades, which present al history and tradition in Northern Hessen. themselves during a walk through places such as Fritzlar, Frankenberg, Schwalmstadt, Oedelsheim, Melsungen, South of Kassel lies Rotkäppchenland, an extensive, Rotenburg an der Fulda or Eschwege, provide an insight slightly mountainous meadow and forest landscape, into the history of the region. The idiosyncratically picnamed after the famous fairy tale ‘Little Red Riding Hood’. turesque town hall in Frankenberg with its ten pointed Whether along the German Fairy Tale Route, on hiking towers represents the wealth of that time, as does the trails through nature or by bicycle on well-developed Löwe patrician house in Bad Sooden-Allendorf and the cycle routes – echoes of the wonderful world of the fairy Kaufhäuschen in Fritzlar. The appearance of these towns tales of the Brothers Grimm await you every step of the in Northern Hessen has changed little over the centuries way. The hidden Sleeping Beauty Castle Sababurg, the and takes visitors back in time. Frau Holle (Mother Hulda) Pond on the Hohe Meißner in the Werratal or the Reinhardswald enchant visitors and www.grimmheimat.de tell the tales and legends of the famous brothers.
NORTHERN HESSEN A feast for the senses
Hermann Bieber The ranger is out and about in the Kellerwald-Edersee national park almost every day. He guides hiking groups, leads excursions and keeps an eye on things. He also enjoys hiking here privately.
Hearty snack with typical Northern Hessian ingredients: Ahle Wurscht.
Real insider tips: Northern Hessen’s natural paradise Nature lovers will not only feel at home in the home of the Grimms Northern Hessen in the Kellerwald and by the Edersee. Relaxation can also be found in many other places: For example, in the region of the Meißner-Kaufungen Forest, with its nature park characterised by deep forests, mountain meadows and crystal-clear streams; in the gentle low mountain range landscape of the Reinhardswald, one of the most
unspoilt and lonely forest areas in Germany; in the Diemelsee Nature Park with its range of sports and hiking opportunities around Willingen; and in the Habichtswald Nature Park, where the UNESCO World Heritage Site Bergpark Wilhelmshöhe is waiting to be discovered in addition to the unspoilt nature. www.grimmheimat.de/naturerleben/national-und-naturparke
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THE RHÖN
Light-footed landscapers Man and beast live in harmony in the Rhön. The Rhön sheep is an emblem of this symbiosis. Almost extinct 40 years ago, it is now an indispensable part of the culturallandscape. Night-time is also all about nature.
The Rhön is best discovered at a slow pace – for example, during a hike or a bicycle tour. And you come across the Rhön sheep time and time again.
The sheep and their lambs stand on the pasture like white cotton wool bushes. “I have holiday guests visiting my farm again and again and the children love to stroke the sheep’s cuddly fleece,” Julia Djabalameli talks lovingly about her flock of 40 sheep. “The Rhön sheep is like the symbol of our region,” she says. “It shows that agriculture, nature conservation and maintaining traditions can go hand in hand. This is also the reason why the region has been declared a biosphere reserve by UNESCO,” explains the shepherdess. It stands for scenic diversity with a wide variety of species. The Hessian
THE RHÖN Rhön sheep and Dark Sky Reserve
Julia Djabalameli The shepherdess treats her sheep with respect and a calm, firm hand. It is very important to her that her animals are very trusting. This pleases her guests of all ages, who can grasp the cuddly fleece of the sheep.
Left: The aviation monument is the landmark of the Wasserkuppe and the region. Left side: A black head on a white body and slender legs characterise the Rhön sheep.
The Dark Sky Reserve Rhön has also recently been named an eco-model region, with the aim of promoting organic forms of farming and increasing the range of regional organic produce on offer.
Agriculture, nature conservation and maintaining traditions go hand in hand
Today, the Rhön region is unimaginable without sheep. It is hard to believe that they were on the verge of extinction 40 years ago. “There were only a few hundred left in the 1970s,” says Djabalameli. There are once again significantly more than 4000 animals today. The meat of extensively reared sheep is particularly tender and aromatic because the animals have more time to grow up. Milk and cheese, on the other hand, are usually not obtained from Rhön sheep, as they produce just enough milk for their lambs. Djabalameli also sees the Rhön shepherds and their animals as landscape conservationists. By allowing the sheep to graze on the higher Rhön plains,
The night sky in the Rhön is simply breath-taking. While artificial light turns night into day in other places, the sky over the Rhön remains almost dark thanks to the sparse population and was therefore named as an 'International Dark Sky Reserve' with the aim of protecting the nocturnal habitat. The biosphere reserve offers, among other things, moonlight and stargazing hikes and guided tours to see nocturnal animals and provides information about the protection and preservation of the Rhön habitat. www.sternenpark-rhoen.de
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Top: Julia Djabalameli and her herd of Rhรถn sheep Below: Hiking break with blueberries.
they stop areas from becoming overgrown and thus contribute to preserving the cultural landscape. The Rhรถn, which stretches across Hessen, Bavaria and Thuringia, is a mosaic of wooded and open areas, mountain and flower meadows and upland moors, in which small settlements are embedded here and there. This varied natural environment with comparatively few people offers good living conditions for endangered animal species such as wildcats, black grouse, black storks and kingfishers. www.rhoen.de
THE VOGELSBERG Fiery past
THE VOGELSBERG
Hiking on the volcano In the heart of Hessen lies the largest continuous volcanic area in Central Europe. Everything in Vogelsberg seems to be connected to volcanic eruptions: there is a volcanic cycle path, a volcanic thermal bath, a bus route called Vulkanexpress and a volcano museum, the Vulkaneum.
Susanne Jost is a trained Geo-Naturepark guide and shows visitors how varied the landscape is here. The region owes this to a volcanic eruption some 15 million years ago. Violent eruptions brought huge masses of glowing hot magma to the surface. “Certain plants only grow on the basalt soils that we have here. And, of course, the historic town centres also reveal this because the architecture in our churches and houses has been shaped by volcanic rock,” Jost explains. Some of the widely scattered clumps of lava are as tall as houses, their bizarre shapes giving them names such as ‘Dicke Steine’ (fat rocks) and ‘Heinzemannkopf’ (brownie head). The rocks, often designated as natural monuments, are popular places for hikers to stop and rest.
Top: The Hoher Vogelsberg Nature Park is known for its diverse, fragmented landscape.
The Vogelsberg, Europe’s largest volcanic massif, is a real hot spot. You can cool off in one of the Vogelsberg lakes or enjoy a cold drink in one of the many country inns.
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View into the Hessian countryside.
The landscape is a mosaic of meadows, orchards and small fields, each separated by a dry stone wall that once made it possible to use the land for agriculture. “The dry stone walls piled up by our ancestors benefit not only us humans but also many birds, small animals and plants as well. They find shelter and breeding places there.”
Susanne Jost She works full-time for the nature conservation authority, taking care of natural monuments. On a voluntary basis, she is a trained Geo-Naturepark guide and ambassador for the Vogelsberg Volcano Region Nature Park.
Ten certified hiking trails lead through shady mixed forests and gentle meadows, past babbling streams and over hills. “I love watching sunsets on a mountain ridge,” says Susanne Jost. Countless elevations in the Vogelsberg are suitable for this, with half a dozen of them over 700 metres high. Some of the summits are former volcanic vents, on some of which whole villages have been built. Stornfels and Herbstein are such places, as well as the 600-metre-high Ulrichstein, the highest town in Hessen. www.vogelsberg-touristik.de
THE VOGELSBERG Fiery past
Top: Susanne Jost shows visitors her Vogelsberg. Below: Cyclists on the volcano cycle path take a break in a spot overlooking Herbstein.
Volcano cycle path Vogelsberg On the best fine asphalt and with only moderate gradients, cyclists, skaters and roller skiers ride through a beautifully open forest and meadow landscape along the route of the former Oberwald railway. The 94-kilometre volcano cycle path meanders through the low mountain ranges of Vogelsberg and Wetterau to places with lively bathing lakes that provide cool refreshment. www.vulkanradweg.de
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EXPERIENCING NATURE IN HESSEN
THE SPESSART
Wellbeing in the forest Off to the forest, that’s the motto in the Spessart. Word has already got around that this is a great place for hiking. As you go along, the scent of leaves, needles and bark makes you feel healthy and happy. You can also make the most of this consciouslyby ‘forest bathing’, the popular trend from Japan.
Anyone who wants to try out forest bathing should allow at least two to four hours for it. And then what? “Ground yourself, breathe, smile,” is how Gabriele Skrock describes her approach. First, the participants feel their way around the environment with their eyes closed: the soft forest floor, the birds’ voices, the knocking of a woodpecker, from which
the Spessart gets its name (the German word for woodpecker is ‘Specht’). Take a deep breath of the aromatic forest air, which calms the mind and contains the messenger substances that have been proven to have health-promoting effects. Whether you only go this far or the inner journey goes even deeper, to search for meaning and to
THE SPESSART Mystical forest For nature lovers and anyone who wants to become one: the Spessart offers an abundance of premium hiking trails, nature and game parks, the Europa forest ropes course and much more.
Left: One day in the forest is often enough to maintain your balance and find peace. Left side: View over the rolling hills of the Spessart.
overcome individual challenges, is up to the individual. The feedback Gabriele Skrock receives is overwhelmingly positive: the participants leave the forest with a smile on their faces and, as they say themselves, they feel more alive, in a good mood, have replenished their energy and found themselves again far away from their hectic daily routine. If you want even more forest, you can also spend a whole weekend under the tree tops and sleep in the open air. Gabriele Skrock is relaxed about the new hype surrounding this ancient experience: “I am happy when people go into the forest, whether out of genuine interest or just because this hype has made them curious. It is an invitation to reclaim the power within ourselves, supported by the healing power of the forest.” Those who like hiking and want to combine the activity with forest bathing will find many suitable places to dive in in the Flörsbach Valley near Gabriele Skrock, as well as along the Spessartbogen, a 90-kilometre-long hiking trail between Schlüchtern and Langenselbold. The same goes for the Spessart trails (Spessartfährten), the 10 to 16 kilometres of marked day trails. The Spessart tracks (Spessartspuren), shorter paths that invite you to take a contemplative stroll, are also being created at the moment. By the way, four to eight hours of forest bathing once a month are sufficient to sustain the recuperative effect. Anyone who is now curious about this should simply try it out. The trees in the Spessart are there for everyone – and, for nature lovers, bathing in the light green surroundings is as relaxing as a whole spa holiday. www.spessart-tourismus.de www.spessartbogen.de www.menschundwald.de
Grünland Spessart: Where there’s a lot of outside inside The lush meadows and pastures of the Spessart are almost ideal for raising cattle and sheep. The ‘Grünland Spessart’ label guarantees high quality, first-class taste and species-appropriate husbandry. The initiative founded in 2011 by farmers, restaurateurs and butchers is not only dedicated to improving the quality and marketing of regional food. Because its slogan ‘Da ist Draußen drin’ (there’s outside inside) stands for pasture farming and thus preserving the cultural landscape – a matter close to the heart of the initiative.
www.gruenland-spessart.de
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Top and bottom: The Spessart with its colored sandstone, the extensive mixed forests, gentle hills and clearings is particularly suitable for forest bathing.
Gabriele Skrock The graduate geographer and holistic forest therapist lives her life connected to nature, especially with the forests on her doorstep. Her curiosity for everyÂthing that means being human leads her on her way.
BERGSTRASSE-ODENWALD Riesling and apples
BERGSTRASSE–ODENWALD
Red vines, round apples Regional cultural treasures lie in both fruits. In the Red Riesling from the Bergstraße, a historic variety that even lingers on the palate of the Queen. And in the apples of the Odenwald, the diversity of which is close to the hearts of conservationists, fruit growers and restaurateurs.
Queen Elizabeth is said to have ordered several boxes to her castle after tasting the Red Riesling, a special white wine from the Hessian Bergstraße. Reinhard Steinbacher from the Hanno Rothweiler winery enthuses: “Wines made from Red Riesling already existed in the Middle Ages. They are particularly rich in extracts and are full-bodied.” On the ‘Wine and Stone’ adventure trail in Heppenheim, you can learn exciting things about all the old grape varieties that are cultivated in the vine-
The BergstraßeOdenwald region has a lot to offer: excellent hiking trails, farmers’ markets and restaurants that attract visitors with good food and wine.
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Hanno Rothweiler “Not born as a winemaker – but born to be a winemaker” is the busy master winemaker’s motto. Today, he commercially exploits 5.5 hectares of vineyards, on which Red Riesling also grows.
Right: A central ingredient in regional cuisine: the apple.
yard at Steinkopf. The trail winds its way through the vineyards and explains interesting facts about the region, nature and winegrowing. The almost Mediterranean landscape of the Bergstraße stretches from Darmstadt to Heidelberg.
“We want to place the focus on the produce of the region.”
Another fruit of the region enchants the palate in a similar manner. The apples from the Odenwald forest taste wonderfully sweet and deliciously sour. This unique taste is the result of careful care and preserving the environment. The Streuobstwiesenretter initiative aims to protect the orchard meadows in the Odenwald. Not only do many rare plants live here, but so do bees and bumble bees, tree frogs and bats, hoopoes and field mice. Those who are part of the initiative in the Odenwald maintain old trees, raise seedlings and educate the public. They also save rare fruit varieties from extinction – for example, when an apple tree dies and the variety is grafted beforehand to preserve its taste.
BERGSTRASSE-ODENWALD Riesling and apples
Left: Red Riesling is a white wine made from red grapes. Right: Perfect accompaniment to onion tart – a fresh white wine from the Bergstraße.
The Edelobstbrennerei fruit distillery in the Fürth district of Erlenbach is also dedicated to preserving old fruit varieties from the region. These forgotten apple varieties have a particularly broad taste spectrum and astound the palate. Most modern varieties simply cannot keep up here. The cuisine of Armin Treusch and his restaurant Johanns Stube in Reichels heim also gives apples a central role – be it in the form of cider and sauerkraut or as apple and onion vinaigrette. All of the ingredients come from the local area: “We want to place the focus on the produce and apples of the Odenwald,” says Treusch. Of course, this also includes the many ciders, juices and sparkling wines. Each of the wines are made from one variety, handpicked, freshly harvested, home-pressed and fermented in the autumn, each with its own character showing the diverse flavours of the Odenwald. After such culinary delights, it’s no wonder that the happy guests usually only say with a blissful sigh: “It’s so beautiful here in your area, we really shouldn’t tell anyone else.” www.tourismus-odenwald.de
Orchards The varied, mosaic-like landscape of the orchards is best conquered on foot. A varied circular hiking trail through the Weschnitztal valley leads for 13 kilometres through orchards, fields and forests, past places of interest and magnificent views. A section of the trail runs along the Mörlenbach art trail with numerous works of art. Information boards tell interesting facts about the landscape of the Odenwald, which is particularly impressive with a magnificent panoramic view of the over 577-metre-high Tromm.
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FRANKFURT RHINE-MAIN
Frankfurt’s green front garden Frankfurt – that’s the city of banks, skyscrapers and glass façades. Perhaps. What many people don’t know is that there is a green band of fields, orchards and areas for experiencing nature around the city. A paradise for cyclists, hikers – and pleasure-seekers.
Out into the greenery! Orchards, cycle routes and hiking trails are waiting to be explored. The FrankfurtRhineMain region has plenty to offer.
Hardly any other German city conveys such urbanity from a distance as Frankfurt. At the same time, however, hardly any other major city is lucky enough to be surrounded by so much greenery. GrünGürtel is the name given to the green belt that surrounds the city and occupies a third of its surface area. However, the GrünGürtel is part of the Rhine-Main Regional Park, which merges at its edges into the Rheingau, the Hessian Ried, the Kinzigtal, the Taunus and the Wetterau. The green corridors open up spaces for experiencing nature and invite visitors to take a walk in the countryside.
FRANKFURT RHINE-MAIN Green belt and green sauce
On the regional park routes, day-trippers can discover cultural landscapes, forests, idyllic landscape islands, monuments of industrial culture, gardens and parks as well as historically important places with a great deal of “handson history”. Another well-known place is the Messel Pit, south of Frankfurt. Spectacular fossils were found in the abandoned oil shale open-cast mine, making it the first German site to be declared a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site in 1995. “Researchers” of all ages can learn exciting details about geology, volcanism, landscape forms and climate – and that crocodiles and all kinds of other exotic animals used to live here. The agricultural and horticultural businesses in the regional park supply locals and guests with regional produces. For example, Andreas Schneider’s 8500 fruit trees grow in Nieder-Erlenbach. Schneider sells the typical Frankfurt Ebbelwoi directly under the trees of his fruit farm or in the wine tavern. The Hermann Horst cheese dairy in Groß-Gerau, now run by the fifth generation of the family, has been producing its Handkäs’ since 1862. This makes it probably the oldest sour milk cheese dairy in Germany that is still producing. Handkäs’ owes its name to its original method of production: shaped by hand, it was about the size of a palm of the hand, accompanied by “music” consisting of onions, vinegar and oil marinade and caraway seeds (see recipe on p. 22). Cider, Handkäs’: we’re just missing the third culinary institution in the region: Frankfurt Green Sauce. Rainer Schecker’s nursery, in the southern GrünGürtel, is one of the suppliers of the herbs. There have to be seven fresh herbs: borage and chervil, cress and parsley, salad burnet, sorrel and chives. The sauce is served with beef or boiled potatoes and eggs. Green belt, green fingers, green sauce – one thing is clear: FrankfurtRhineMain presents itself in green. www.frankfurt-rhein-main.de
Top left: View from the Lohrberg vineyard over the Frankfurt skyline. Top: The Flörsheimer Warte, which lies in the middle of the vineyards, is a popular place for excursions. Left side: Apple-picking on the Schneider fruit farm.
The regional park circular route The Rhine-Main Regional Park shows visitors special places in the Rhine-Main cultural landscape. The central circular route is the centrepiece of the route network. Beginning at the mouth of the Main through the landscapes of the Vordertaunus, it leads over the wide views of the Wetterau and the extensive forests in the south of Frankfurt to the Hessian Ried on the Rhine. Visitors discover orchards and biotopes, art and history, vantage points and games in an area totalling 190 kilometres www.regionalpark-rheinmain.de
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Handkäs’ with music Ingredients (serves 4): 4 Handkäs’ (hand cheese) 8 tbs vinegar 4 tbs oil 4 tbs water 3 onions Salt, white pepper, caraway seeds For the marinade, mix vinegar, oil and water, season liberally with salt and pepper, add the peeled and diced onions and the caraway seeds. Pour the marinade over the Handkäs’ and let it infuse. Serve with farmer’s bread and butter and, of course, a glass of cider/half a pint.
Frankfurt green sauce Ingredients (serves 4): 1 pack “green sauce” herb mixture (consisting of borage, chervil, cress, parsley, pimpinelle, sorrel and chives) 4 eggs, hard boiled 1 tbs vinegar 2 tbs oil ¼l sour cream 150 g yoghurt Salt, pepper Clean all of the herbs (approx. 300 g), wash thoroughly and drain. Then chop finely. Mix in a bowl with vinegar, oil, sour cream and yoghurt. Season with salt and pepper. Chop the hard-boiled eggs into small pieces and fold in. Then chill for at least 1 hour. Stir again before serving. The hard-boiled egg yolks can also be released, passed through a sieve, mixed with oil first and then only added to all of the other ingredients.
THE TAUNUS Cultural diversity
THE TAUNUS
Outpost of antiquity Roman legionnaires, mysterious Celts and a notorious robber chief – people from different eras have left their traces in the wooded Taunus region. You can discover the legacy of a world culture on the limes adventure trail.
Two thousand years ago, the Romans built the limes, the outer boundary of the Roman Empire, extending more than 550 kilometres across Central Europe. However, the ancient large-scale building project was hardly a real defensive structure at first. “At the beginning, there was only a post path with wooden towers. It was only later that palisade fences, ditches and stone towers were built,” says Susanne Weidert-Horn. The expert nature and landscape guide shows visitors the 90-kilometre limes adventure trail, one of the most exciting and best preserved sections of the limes. Good to know: The nature trail can be reached from the Frankfurt metropolitan region by car in just a few minutes. Hikers and cyclists suddenly find themselves on a journey through time on family-friendly paths through one of the most beautiful regions of the Taunus. On well signposted paths in the UNESCO World Heritage Site Upper Germanic-Rhaetian Limes, the route leads through almost untouched mixed forest, along idyllic streams and to the vantage points of the Großer and Kleiner Feldberg as well as the Altkönig, which open up wonderful panoramas. The elaborately reconstructed buildings of the defensive complex form an impressive contrast to the unspoilt nature of the Taunus. Along the route, hikers will encounter numerous watchtowers and several forts, including the famous Saalburg fort. In the only completely reconstructed Roman fort along the limes, archaeological finds and elaborate reconstructions tell of life and everyday routine in a highly developed military complex, which included not only a barracks, supply building and administration building but also a village, temple, restaurants and bathhouses. A permanent exhibition makes history even more tangible. Even before the Romans, the Celts settled here and built the first larger city in the region in today’s Rhine-Main area. The Celtic circular hiking trail in Oberursel leads past the walls of that city and can be tackled as part of a leisurely afternoon hike. If you want to know more about this mysterious people, you should visit the Vortaunus Museum in Oberursel, which exhibits finds from the Celtic ring wall.
Susanne Weidert-Horn The nature and landscape guide enjoys taking groups along the limes wall to Saalburg fort. But she also finds the Celts very interesting.
Celtic walls, Roman forts, limes and castles – the Taunus brings together great historical diversity. The best way to hike around it is along the numerous circular hiking trails.
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THE TAUNUS Cultural diversity
Left side: Visitors to Saalburg fort are greeted by a Roman general. The replica, reconstructed at the beginning of the 20th century, is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site Upper Germanic-Rhaetian Limes. Top: A popular excursion destination and magnet for hikers all year round: the 881-metre-high Große Feldberg.
The Huguenots, who brought their crafts to the region in the 17th century, have also left their mark on the region. You can follow in their footsteps on the Huguenot and Waldensian cultural long-distance hiking trail, which runs through the Taunus Mountains from Bad Homburg to Friedrichsdorf. The ‘Schinderhannes’, an 184 km-long path, was named after the notorious robber Johannes Bückler, who plied his trade here around 1800. It passes numerous places of interest in the Taunus Nature Park, and the 38-kilometre ‘Taunus Schinderhannes Steig’ section is even certified as a quality hiking trail. Wherever you go in this region, you will always find that the Taunus is a great history book. https://taunus.info
Farm shops invite you on a shopping spree and discovery tour This is also the Taunus: cider taverns with a hearty menu, farm cafés with homemade food under old trees, village shops with groceries straight from the producer. Many farm shops and farms that have opened their doors to visitors are worth a visit at any time of the year. The culinary voyage of discovery is all the more welcome after hiking and sightseeing. The farms are often located in the immediate vicinity of themed trails or supra-regional tourist routes. www.land-partie.de
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THE RHEINGAU
Pinnacle of pleasure in the Rheingau Monasteries, wine and hiking – this harmonious triad can be found between Rüdesheim and Eberbach Monastery. Your constant companion at all times is the Rhine. Or Wolfgang Blum, a knowledgeable wine and hiking guide, in short: the ambassador of Rheingau joie de vivre.
The Rheingau is among the smallest wine-growing regions in Germany. The treasures that have earned the cheerful region a worldwide reputation lie close together.
“The Rheingauer is a cheerful man,” Wolfgang Blum muses as he sips Hattenheim Alte Reben Riesling from his glass. He sits in a deck chair with a view of the Rhine and blinks into the setting sun. “Wherever wine grows, enjoyment is a high priority.” He should know. The wine and hiking guide has lived here for 60 years. Wolfgang Blum is particularly fond of the Rheinsteig, a 320-kilometre premium hiking trail from Wiesbaden to Bonn, perhaps the most popular long-dis-
THE RHEINGAU Vineyard tours and monasteries
Top: Numerous wine festivals invite you to taste the wine in a convivial atmosphere right where it grows – in the middle of the vineyards.
tance hiking trail in Germany outside the Alps. “It offers wonderful views of the Rhine and an unbelievable amount of variety, also thanks to the many monasteries along it.” The path leads straight past St. Hildegard’s Abbey, above Rüdesheim am Rhein. The Benedictine nuns living there run a large winery, sell around 50,000 bottles a year and regularly win awards. Wine, enjoyment and culture are always directly linked in the Rheingau. Blum is one of the 21 patrons of the Rheinsteig and knows it inside out. Six of the original twelve monasteries have survived between Rüdesheim-Aulhausen and Eberbach Monastery alone. And so, less than four kilometres from St. Hildegard, the Franciscan monastery Marienthal awaits on the Rheinsteig, exuding a devout sense of peace. The Drosselgasse in Rüdesheim am Rhein,
Wolfgang Blum The wine and hiking guide is almost always on the road somewhere in the Rheingau. Preferably on the Rheinsteig.
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Top: Cycling on the Rhine. Below: On the Klostersteig at the basilica of Schloss Johannisberg
The Rheingau Klostersteig The Rheingau Klostersteig pilgrim route (30 km) has led from Eberbach Monastery via the former Johannisberg Monastery Church, the still active monasteries of Marienthal, St. Hildegard and Nothgottes, to the church of the former Cistercian monastery of Marien hausen in Rüdesheim-Aulhausen since summer 2016. Specially created resting stops along the way invite you to take a break. www.rheingauer-klostersteig.de
on the other hand, is quite different, with live bands setting the mood in many traditional establishments. But those seeking peace and quiet get their money’s worth here, too. Guided nature walks, vineyard tours and guided cellar tours are easily possible in the UNESCO World Heritage region. Schloss Johannisberg is also a place of conviviality. The former monastery is now home to a restaurant with a magnificent view. The penultimate stop on our day trip through the Rheingau is Eberbach Monastery. It is regarded as the best-preserved medieval monastery in Germany. In the late afternoon, the benches by the wine tasting barrel in Hattenheim am Rhein are full to capacity. People enjoy their evening over a glass of wine as they watch the ships pass by. Wine ambassador Wolfgang Blum philosophises about the Rheingau joie de vivre and he is right: “The Rheingau is sheer joie de vivre.” www.rheingau.com
THE WESTERWALD Active in nature
Two cyclists in the autumnal Westerwald.
THE WESTERWALD
Wäller, wind and water It can still be felt in the Westerwald, the primal power of nature. The wind whistles over the peaks, happy hikers and relaxed cyclists whistle a little tune to it. The beautiful low mountain range landscape, framed by the rivers Rhine, Lahn, Dill and Sieg, is worth a visit at any time of the year.
Westerwalders, who call themselves “Wäller” or “Basaltköpp”, are as wonderfully rough-and-ready as their beloved homeland. A certain stubbornness may be heard there, or simply a down-to-earth quality, which a life spent between wonderfully wooded basalt crests brings with it. There is certainly no room here for scheduling stress, hustle and bustle and other big-city frippery. The best conditions for finding true holiday happiness on the well-developed hiking and cycle paths of the Westerwald.
You should always bring swimming gear with you when you go hiking in the Westerwald. The many reservoirs invite you to take a refreshing drip.
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The varied topography allows cyclists of all fitness levels to put together the right route. While long sections with steep gradients get the blood of sports cyclists racing, connoisseurs and families can relax by cycling together on shorter routes with less of a gradient. For example, on the 21-kilometer Ulmtal cycle path. The bikes roll through the delightful valley on the disused Ulmtalbahn railway line. Magnificent panoramic views, nostalgic railway bridges and interesting sites of industrial history can be admired along the way. The route leads past the Lahntal outdoor centre with its forest ropes course, adventure playground, teepees and ‘hobbit houses’. At the BASALTPARKours in Beilstein, you can learn more about the rocks, the landscape and the people. Those who prefer to walk can discover the forests and meadows, ponds and lakes of the Westerwald at a leisurely pace and up close thanks to the ingenious network of hiking trails. Hiking enthusiasts can cover 235 kilometres in 16 stages on the WesterwaldSteig, from Herborn to Bad Hönningen. The WesterwaldSteig is a quality trail for hikers in Germany and one of the ‘Top Trails of Germany’. The ‘discovery loops’ invite you to enjoy shorter circular hikes along the route.
View of Greifenstein Castle.
THE WESTERWALD Active in nature
Top: View into the historic centre of Herborn. Top right: Hiking pleasure on the WesterwaldSteig. Bottom right: Many well-signposted themed cycle paths invite you to take a ride.
The diversity of the region can also be explored on the Wäller tours. For example, there is the 36 kilometre long Greifenstein loop, which leads from the half-timbered town of Herborn via the castle ruins of Greifenstein to Rehe, where it meets the WesterwaldSteig. Shady forest sections alternate with fragrant meadows and refreshing bathing lakes. As a reward for the tight calves, make your way to the comfortable ‘Hui Wäller’ country house. The name refers to the hikers’ greeting that won a competition by the Westerwald Club in 1913. Hui to refer to the blowing of the wind, Wäller to refer to the courageous Westerwald people who brave the elements. Fresh air and very close to nature: you can really relax here. Promised. www.westerwald.info
The Westerwalders Hikers’ greeting Westerwalders are known as ‘Wäller’ in common parlance, but are sometimes also affectionately dubbed ‘Basaltköpp’ – you can decide for yourself whether this is related to their stubbornness or to the wealth of basalt in the region. One thing is certain: When, in 1913, the Westerwald Club was looking for a hikers’ greeting in a competition, there was certainly no mention of basalt heads. The winning entry was “Hui! Wäller? – Allemol!”
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THE LAHNTAL
A multifaceted character Lively student towns and heavenly shore areas, mighty castles and effervescent healing waters: the Lahn is a river with many different facets. Every holidaymaker will find his own idyll between the spring and the mouth of the river.
THE LAHNTAL Nature experience water
Water and nature lovers agree: The Lahntal (Lahn Valley) offers not only Hessen’s most beautiful river but also ideal opportunities for recreation and leisure.
There is no doubt about it: the Lahn never gets boring. Still sleepy near its source, the river later splashes through dense greenery and old cities and finally spreads out as a proud torrent. Canoeists, sports and leisure cyclists, hikers, culture lovers and those seeking peace and quiet find their fortune along its 245 kilometres. The surrounding waters also have plenty to offer. For example, the many wetlands in the northeast of the Burgwald forest invite you to enjoy interesting excursions in the most densely wooded region in Hessen. The many springs in the region promise refreshment. They were already known in ancient times and have supplied prominent mineral waters such as Selters and Karlssprudel for centuries. Holidaymakers can enjoy numerous thermal baths and mineral water springs from Bad Laasphe near the spring to Bad Ems near the
Left: The Lahn flows around Schloss Weilburg in Weilburg. Top right and centre: Thanks to its diversity, the Lahn is popular with hikers, cyclists and canoeists alike. Below: Burgwald is the starting point for many excursions.
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mouth of the Rhine. The Gertrudis fountain in Biskirchen, where mineral water rises from the depths of the Rhenish Slate Mountains, is especially spectacular. Cyclists, in particular, love the Lahn. The Lahn Valley Cycle Path, which is around 250 kilometres long, is not too demanding for cyclists, but offers the entire diversity of a unique river landscape. On quiet side roads and well-developed cycle paths, the route leads through lively towns such as Marburg and Limburg, through romantic half-timbered villages, past river meadows, unspoilt floodplain landscapes and defiant castles. The river with its near-natural shore areas is a habitat for many plant and animal species. The Lahn Window at the weir of the Kinkel’schen Mühle mill in Gießen, where the view through a panoramic window reveals an impressive view of the underwater world of the Lahn, is a unique natural spectacle. A cycle tour along the Lahn is also an easy way to combine detours into the side valleys, for example on the Dilltal or Salzböde Cycle Paths. The Aartalsee Cycle Path, the Lake Cycle Path in the Lahn-Dill mountain region and the Ohm Cycle Path north of Marburg also offer insights into the most diverse landscapes and cultural areas. The fans of the region have known it for a long time: If you want to get to know the Lahntal and its surroundings in all their diversity, you should stay longer than just a weekend. Or just come back again. www.daslahntal.de
Left: Guided tours in the Fortuna visitor mine are popular. Right: Cycling along the Lahn.
Weilburg Shipping Tunnel: you’ve got to go through it It is a very special highlight for the canoeists on the Lahn: The shipping tunnel in Weilburg is the oldest and longest navigable canal tunnel in Germany today. Built between 1844 and 1847, this waterway, together with the lock at the lower exit, which compensates for a difference in height of 4.6 metres, is considered not only a memorable monument but also a technical rarity. Passage and locking through the 195-metre-long tunnel are a special experience.
SERVICE Contact and imprint
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