Good Times Food & Wine Fall 2012

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SANTA CRUZ WHARF New Open Kitchen Mesquite Charcoal Grill

Monday - Friday $8.95 Local’s Specials

Ocean View Dining 423-5200 4 l food & wine

PARMESAN CRUSTED CHICKEN

FRESH OFF THE BOAT

MILE-HIGH MEATLOAF

STEAK PASTA SAUTE

CAJUN SNAPPER

PIT-GRILLED PORK CHOP

SALMON CROQUETTE

FIREFISH ROCKEFELLER


contents

food Forward 6 Living In A Local Paradise

Liquid Therapy 14 Cafe Food Goes Foodie

30 Mighty Mixology

The story of downtown’s Café Delmarette.

Behold: the masterful cocktails found at Motiv’s upstairs lounge.

The vision behind Santa Cruz Local Foods.

16 Garden Fresh 8 Smart Seafood

34 Beer With A Conscience

A primer on where to find sustainable seafood.

When it comes to “local,” Main Street Garden & Café looks no further than its own backyard.

10 Farm To Table

18 A Santa Cruz Picnic

Three local farms worth visiting.

Tourists and locals alike find culinary joy at this beachfront eatery.

40 Take Your Pick

26 Dreamy Desserts

43 Meet Your Winemaker

Organic cupcakes and ice cream—need we say more?

The rise of Olivia Teutschel.

12 Market Matters Wondering what’s in store at the farmers’ market this season? Look no further.

A Q&A with Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing owner Emily Thomas. Ten wines—five white, five red—to try this fall.

food & wine fall 2012

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armers' markets, CSAs, farm-to-table dinners ... these may be signs of a fringe food movement in other parts of the country, but they're the norm around here. Our commitment to and revelry in organic, local and sustainable foods is no doubt made possible by the many lush fields, rife with produce, that surround us. Thanks to a number of locals who have channeled this movement into their culinary efforts, Santa Cruz is awash in delectable foods and beverages that are as good for our personal and environmental health as they are for our taste buds and appetites. Has sustainability ever tasted as flavorful as it does in Geisha’s Spice House roll, or as sinfully sweet as in Buttercup Cakes & Farm House Frosting’s mini vegan cupcakes? We don’t think so. The people and places written about on the following pages are a mere sampling of our area's delicious abundance (which is particularly great this time of year). We hope you will take a break from planting your garden's winter greens, curl up with a mug of toasty homemade apple cider (recipe on page 52) and dig in. And don’t forget to visit gtweekly.com for even more Food & Wine content, including a slideshow of mouthwatering eats, a guide to spicing up your happy hour, and a look at the Santa Cruz Fruit Tree Project, a volunteer-run effort to make use of the unused bounty falling from our very own trees. But, first, a quick note: While the fall harvest is a time of celebration and indulgence for many, it is also a time of scarcity for some. As we enjoy the season and its many tasty gifts, let’s also remember that hunger is a serious issue in our community. Start by visiting the foodbank.org to learn about Second Harvest Food Bank's annual holiday food drive.

editor’s note

Cheers,

Elizabeth Limbach

Publisher Jeff Mitchell Editor Elizabeth Limbach Contributors Josie Cowden, Lauren Schiff, Joel Hersch, KellyAnn Kelso, Tanisha Wallis, Mikaela Todd, Julia Reis, Greg Archer Proofreader Josie Cowden Photographer Keana Parker Art Director Joshua Becker Designers Jennifer Poli Ian Webb Carly Gunther Advertising Director Stephanie Lutz x204 Account Executives Kate Kauffman x208 Kelli Edwards x 217 Chelsey Mosgrove x218 Suzanne Wells x 219 On the Cover: Design by Jennifer Poli. Photo of Ristorante Avanti beet ravioli by Keana Parker. Photos by Keana Parker.

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Food Forward

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Food Forward

THE

Locavore’s

Choice How Santa Cruz Local Foods raised the bar on eating local By Mikaela Todd

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hen Noah Pinck and Eleanor Taylor started Santa Cruz Local Foods (SCLF) around three years ago, the community was already on board with the eco-friendly trend of seeking out local foods. But amid the growing options—weekly farmers’ markets, community-supported agriculture programs, and the regionally minded produce sections at our grocery stores—there was no business quite like what the pair had in mind. Their vision, born from a desire to expand people’s access to locally grown and produced foods, was for an online farm-to-fork-style business where customers buy food directly from nearby farmers and pick up their purchases at a convenient location. The result was “the area’s only 100 percent local food grocery store,” according to the SCLF website, that has grown from one pickup location three years ago to 15 current pick-up spots. “There are definitely a lot of areas where all there is is just a Trader Joe’s or a Safeway, [with] no real access to fresh, local food,” Pinck says. “We’d love to bring them real food.” In creating the business, Taylor says the pair focused on people who want to obtain food straight from farmers but are limited in their ability to visit farmers’ markets. The resulting portal brings a wide range of foods from local farms (from cucumbers and okra to honey and occasional meat products) together in one easy-to-use online store, and also makes food more accessible through perks like delivery—on bike or via car—for customers who live outside of the city.

SCLF underwent a transition in ownership in September, when Taylor and Pinck handed the reigns over to new owner Zane Griffin (pictured), who has worked with SCLF since December 2011. A recent graduate of UC Santa Cruz in economics and health sciences who is interested in food security and justice, Griffin says he has big goals for his new acquisition. “One of my long-term dreams for Santa Cruz Local Foods is to start a nonprofit arm of the company, a community service aspect, to reach low-income customers,” Griffin says. “I feel the missing link in the sustainable foods movement is reaching out to underserved populations who don’t have access to healthy food or can’t afford it.” Griffin became interested in the sustainable food movement in college, when he held an internship working on a pilot program for a public health campaign aimed at turning childhood obesity around in Santa Cruz County. He says the experience fed his commitment to making healthy and local food affordable for everyone. “My passion lies in food security … free access for under-served people in urban communities,” Griffin says. He also hopes to expand the base of customers from a few dozen orders a week to a few hundred. Part of how he expects to do this is through a new advertising campaign as well as an updated website design and online subscription service. 2131 Delaware Ave., Ste. C, Santa Cruz, 588-2847, santacruzlocalfoods.com.

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Food Forward

Seafood watch H&H Fresh Fish makes choosing sustainable seafood simple By Julia Reis

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ans Haveman and Heidi Rhodes were sitting side by side on their tailgates, parked along West Cliff Drive, when they got to talking. Twelve years later, that initial conversation has blossomed into a partnership in life and in business. The husband and wife (pictured right)—Hans, who has worked his whole life as a commercial fisherman, and Heidi, who studied business— started H&H Fresh Fish in 2003. They operate out of the Santa Cruz Harbor and buy from eight fishermen regularly, and from up to 25 boats during peak season. “Our whole mission is sustainability first and extremely local after that,” says Haveman. “We really enjoy educating people [about] what’s in their front yard as far as seafood choices.” Haveman is a commercial salmon fisherman, and the salmon he catches is sustainable by nature because it’s “practically a zero bycatch fishery,” according to Rhodes. Haveman and

Rhodes try to catch as much salmon themselves as they can, considering the local salmon season is brief. H&H started off selling its Monterey Bay-caught seafood at three local farmers’ markets and now appears at 17 different venues each week. They also began their own community-supported seafood (CSS) program in June 2011, which provides members with fresh fish available for delivery or pickup at locations throughout the Bay Area. “[Sustainability] has become the organic boom of 10 to 15 years ago,” says Rhodes. “It doesn’t have a direct meaning to everybody, but they’re starting to learn the word.” Haveman and Rhodes highlighted California halibut, white bass, sardines, black cod and albacore tuna as local fish that they will feature this fall and winter, as well as Haveman and Rhodes’ holiday favorite: Dungeness crab. They will also offer carefully selected sustainable seafood from overseas. 461-1576, hhfreshfish.com.

don’t forget these local smart seafood outlets ... FishWise works with seafood distributors to help assess the sustainability of their products, which means obtaining information such as where the species was caught and the fishing gear or production method used. Their website also contains purchasing tools so you can shop more conscientiously. 427-1707, fishwise.org. Local Catch Monterey Bay is a community-supported fishery (CSF) that brings fresh, sustainable seafood to the consumer. Members order seafood online and pick it up at one 8 l food & wine

of several available Central Coast locations. The fish species vary depending on what’s in season, and each week details of the fisherman who caught it, as well as recipes and handling tips, are posted online. 345-5153, localcatchmontereybay.com. When it comes to making smart sushi choices, it doesn’t get any easier (or tastier) than at Geisha, the restaurant that is redefining the sushi menu as we know it. Located in quaint Capitola Village, this restaurant sources only sustainable

seafood—making it one of only a handful of entirely sustainable sushi restaurants in the country. 200 Monterey Ave., Ste. 3, Capitola, 464-3328. The Fish Lady of Soquel is run by Sharon Hadley and her husband Mike Hadley, and has been serving up fresh fish to the Central Coast for two decades. Among the seafood offered this season are Alaskan halibut and salmon, Hawaiian ahi tuna and local cod and crab. Friday nights feature live music, wine tasting and barbecue. 2510 Main St.,

Soquel, 475-6044, thefishladysoquel.com. Aquarius at the Dream Inn dishes up American cuisine with an emphasis on local, sustainable seafood and regional wines. Fall and winter seafood includes halibut, wild salmon, California sea bass and sea scallops, along with other seasonal fish as they become available. Also offered are three-course supper nights and new happy hour specials. 175 West Cliff Drive, Santa Cruz, 460-5012, dreaminnsantacruz.com.


Bring the Islands to Your Event!

Holidays • Celebrations • Special Occasions Create your traditional Hawaiian feast from our Catering Menu or choose a Hawaiian Plate Package Pick Up • Delivery • Party at Pono Ekahi Package #1 Choice of any 2 pupus: (appetizers) Cone Sushi Hawaiian spring rolls Honey-Shoyu Wings Choice of one entrée: Mamma Kathy’s Grilled Chicken Hawaiian Kalua Pork & Cabbage Steamed White Rice Choice of one salad: Macaroni Salad Pineapple Cole Slaw Garden Salad Seasonal Fruit Salad

Voted Best New Restaurant 2012 by Santa Cruz Locals Elua Package #2 Choice of any 2 pupus: (appetizers) Hawaiian spring rolls • Hawaiian Tacos Cone Sushi • Kalua Pork Sliders Any two entrees on catering menu Choice of either: Steamed White Rice or Organic Brown Rice Choice of one salad: Macaroni Salad • Garden Salad Seasonal Fruit Salad • Pineapple Cole Slaw Desert: Haupia Coconut Pudding or Chocolate Mac Nut Brownie Bites

Ekolu Package #3 Choice of any 3 pupus: (appetizers) Lomi Salmon • Cone Sushi Coconut Prawns • Kalua Pork Sliders Honey-Shoys Wings • Musubis Any three entrees on catering menu Steamed White Rice or Organic Brown Rice Choice of two salads: Chinese Chicken Salad Pineapple Cole Slaw Macaroni Salad • Seasonal Fruit Salad Desert: Haupia Coconut Pudding & Chocolate Mac Nut Brownie Bites

Heated Tropical Patio • Live Music 6 Nights a Week 120 Union Street • Downtown Santa Cruz • Sun-Wed 11-10 & Thurs- Sat 11-11 831-426-PONO(7666) • www.ponohawaiiangrill.com email us at ponohawaiiancatering.com for full menu and pricing gtweekly.com l food & wine l 9


Food Forward

At Sanderlings, the dining experience is as spectacular as the views...

both indoors and out.

Apples, Pumpkins, Greens—Oh My! Get your fall and winter foods straight from local growers By Julia Reis

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831.662.7120

WWW.SEASCAPERESORT.COM ONE SEASCAPE RESORT DRIVE IN APTOS ACROSS FROM SEASCAPE VILLAGE

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f an apple a day keeps the doctor away, Gizdich Ranch (55 Peckham Road, Watsonville, 722-1056, gizdich-ranch.com) has plenty of varieties to keep your palate, wallet and diet satisfied this fall and winter. The Watsonville farm was started by current owner Vince Gizdich’s grandparents in 1937, making this year their 75th anniversary. Since then, the farm has expanded to include a pie bakery, apple juicing operation, u-pick program and more. Although patrons cannot pick fruit again until May, there is plenty available for purchase that can be used in holiday baking and cooking. “We have a large group of customers that are jam makers or applesauce makers or pie makers,” says Gizdich. “They’re getting a highquality product at a fair price and a fruit that’s full-flavored.” The ranch offers 12 types of apples for sale by the pound or half bushel. Gizdich says the Winesap and Braeburn are his favorites. “Those two apples are a little more complex in their taste; there’s a sharp tangy flavor,” he says. “They’re pretty special apples.” The ranch also sells pies, jams and other select treats. Families can also make a day of

their visit, with picnicking encouraged at the ranch when weather permits. “It’s not every day you get to have a picnic under an apple tree,” Gizdich says. Farther north, Swanton Berry Farm (25 Swanton Road, 425-8919, swantonberryfarms.com) boasts organic products at two different locations, both along Highway 1. Their farmstand near Davenport sells baked goods, jams and pumpkins for cooking and carving, and their ranch near Pescadero contains a kiwi u-pick that will be open every weekend (weather permitting) starting the first weekend of December. And don’t forget Live Earth Farm (1275 Green Valley Road, Watsonville, 763-2448, liveearthfarm.net), a small, organic family farm where apples, pears, root crops and leafy greens will be in abundance this season. Live Earth hosts community-supported agriculture (CSA) members and their friends for educational events and weekly farmstands. Self-guided tours are also available.


with NEW LEAF COMMUNITY MARKETS Specialty Largest

Local and Organic Produce

selection of

Deli Meats and Salumi Local Wine and Beer

Select Great selection

Local, Artisanal and Imported Cheeses of

the Taste ence r Diffe

New Leaf

Community Markets

Santa Cruz 路 Capitola 路 Half Moon Bay San Jose 路 Felton 路 Boulder Creek www.newleaf.com gtweekly.com l food & wine l 11


Food Forward CAFE

Fresh For Fall T

HOURS Mon-Friday 7am-4pm Sat. & Sun. 8am-4pm Coming soon... new extended dinner hours.

Wed. Thurs. Fri. til 9pm Beer and wine

2125 Delaware Ave. far westside Santa Cruz 12 l food & wine

he coastal region of Santa Cruz may grow healthy greens year-round, but eating other local veggies means shifting with the seasons, according to Nesh Dhillon. And he should know—he has been the director of Santa Cruz Community Farmers’ Markets since 2003. When it comes to what to grow in your own garden, Dhillon recommends giving Padròn peppers a try. Native to Padròn, Spain, “it’s actually a crop that was first propagated here in Santa Cruz,” says Dhillon, who explains that a good friend of his started the trend of growing them here about eight years ago. The small green peppers are generally sweet and mild—but garden fresh means you’ll occasionally find a spicy one, so he suggests bracing yourself and having fun with them. To further incorporate local foods into your diet this season, try exploring the dozen or so heirloom varieties of shelling beans and hard squashes by including them in soups, stews and casseroles—they offer protein and their taste enhances as flavors combine after cooking. In your search for homegrown produce this fall, Dhillon says to seek out tomatoes, melons, apples, peppers, persimmons and shelling beans. And as winter rears its head, don’t miss the hard squashes that will come with it. Find these local fall and winter gems at any of the five area farmers’ markets. To learn more, or to find your local farmers’ market, visit santacruzfarmersmarket.org. Also take note of the farmers’ market taking place at the Capitola Mall through Nov. 15; learn more at shopcapitolamall.com/Events/FarmersMarket. | KELLYANN KELSO


Food Forward

Pumpkin, meet kale—the new fall food. This nutrientdense leafy green grows copiously in our area, and, luckily, there’s no shortage of ways to enjoy it. Go ahead—get your kale on. Kale Chips Kale chips are an easy and tasty homemade snack recipe, and a great alternative when you’re hankering for something crunchy and salty. Simply wash, dry and stem a head of kale, cut the leaves into inchlong strips, toss with a modest amount of olive oil, and pop in the oven at 355 degrees until crispy. Remove and season with salt, pepper and nutritional yeast. Juiced & Blended Throw it in the juicer with fresh beets, carrots, ginger and fruit for a healthy pick-me-up, or blend it with almond milk, spinach, avocado, banana and apple for a powerful green smoothie.

New Leaf’s Coastal Kale Salad If you aren’t already addicted to this magical deli dish, you’re missing out. By tossing raw, organic kale with sunflower greens, red onion, dressing, and pumpkin, sunflower and sesame seeds, New Leaf has managed to make healthy eating irresistible.

Massaged Yep, you heard right—kale needs a little pampering sometimes. Working a fatty substance like avocado, olive oil or a creamy dressing into kale leaves achieves a relaxed, softened texture. In Linwood’s Bar & Grill’s Housemade butternut squash ravioli, herb cream reduction saute, wild mushrooms and crispy kale ($19). | ELIZABETH LIMBACH gtweekly.com l food & wine l 13


Eats & Treats

Small But Mighty Café Delmarette redefines café fare with farm-fresh home cooking and delectable pastries By Elizabeth Limbach

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ther than inhabiting the same pint-size location (and the creative re-use of some of the original wood paneling), today’s Café Delmarette shares very little in common with its namesake, which closed after the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake. The first Café Delmarette served heavy American classics such as hamburgers, hot dogs, shakes, and french fries to Downtown Santa Cruz patrons. The new incarnation, which opened on June 5, 2009, has a much lighter—and tastier—approach. From the pastries and coffee drinks to the soups, salads and sandwiches, every item is homemade from ingredients to be proud of: organic produce procured weekly from local farmers’ markets, meat from Niman Ranch, coffee from Santa Cruz’s own Verve Coffee Roasters, homebrewed spicy chai, and organic milk, butter, sugar, flour and eggs. The list goes on, but you get the idea—Café Delmarette keeps it fresh. “We’ve all had that as something that’s important to us,” co-owner

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Jennifer Toner says of the founders’ commitment to the sustainable foods movement. Toner worked at such local institutions as The Nickelodeon Theatre and Bookshop Santa Cruz before starting the eatery with two Nickelodeon coworkers, Elaine Wong and Fred Meng, the latter of whom remains a co-owner. Toner (pictured above with the cafe’s homemade granola) brought her lifelong passion for baking to the mix, and serves as the brains behind the café’s inventive pastries. The scones— with flavors like organic strawberry, rhubarb and goat cheese, chocolate cream, and sausage and cheese—are particularly popular and range from $2.50 to $3.50. “The scones took off,” Toner says, “so we started making more kinds each day.” This fall, customers can look forward to seasonal treats like pumpkin swirl scones and molasses cookies. On the savory side of the menu, the cold weather will mean the return of The Pushkin sandwich ($7.25), which features a thick and creamy layer of homemade white

bean and sage spread topped with red onions, avocado, and pea shoots. It is just one of the many tasty vegan sandwiches in the menu rotation. Another is The Roncado—a sandwich that is wildly popular among all diners, not just herbivores, and is named for none other than former Good Times’ publisher Ron Slack (who ordered it so much they renamed it in his honor). The summer squash and avocado on this sandwich sit atop a mouthwatering cilantro pesto (find the recipe on page 52). While The BLA (sturdy slices of Niman Ranch bacon, avocado, lettuce, and house-made aioli on potato bread, $7.50) is also not to be missed, The Rita ($6.50) may be the show stealer on the sandwich menu. Made with organic egg, potato bread, white cheddar, and the signature aioli, The Rita is a hearty choice for breakfast or lunch.

Salads and daily, seasonal soups round out the revolving menu, which is impressively full considering the staff operates out of a diminutive room with nothing more than one oven, one cooktop stove and a panini press. A visit to the petite space is like stepping into a friend’s kitchen—intimate and casual, where the heat of the oven and aromas of home cooking wrap around you like a tasty hug. Despite its downtown location, the café has a neighborhood feel and is frequented by loyal regulars, who, together with the tightknit staff, form the Delmarette family. “The regulars are pretty much the best part—other than working with food all day,” Toner says with a laugh. “It’s a warm, familial environment. That’s one of the things we set out to do.” 1126 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz, 420-1025.


Paradise Beach Grille Specials Happy Hour Monday thru Friday, 4–6pm

1/2 off Special Bar Menu $3 Draft Beers • $4 Well Drinks $4 House Wine

“Thank you to our customers for your continued support!”

Monday Gary’s Rib Night Join us for a FULL rack of “fall off the Bone” Baby Back Ribs Served with Garlic Cheese Fries and Island Slaw for $18 All Night Happy Hour

Wednesday Island Surf and Turf 6ozs. Of Delicate Lobster with a Petite Filet Mignon Served with Drawn Butter, Garlic Mashed Potatoes and Seasonal Vegetables $28

Thursday Paradise Locals Night 3 Course Dinner for only $25 Johnny Fabulous 6-9

c! i s u M e ive Music! LLiv Live Music!

Live Bands Saturday and Sunday from 3–6 Live Music on Tuesday & Thursday Nights from 6–9

PA R A D I S E BEACH GRILLE Lunch & Dinner served 7 days/week 215 Esplanade, Capitola-by-the-Sea 476-4900 • www.paradisebeachgrille.com gtweekly.com l food & wine l 15


Eats & Treats

Authentic garden-grown Italian at Main Street Garden & Café By KellyAnn Kelso

Wood-fired local sardines, garden kale, balsamic currants, pine nuts

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uzzwords like “organic,” “local” and “seasonal” may be applicable to Main Street Garden & Café, but not in the trendy way they are often used. Sure, they’ve got a freezer that is half the size of yours (read: they keep it fresh), and, yes, an on-site organic garden complete with a chicken coop. But that just comes with the territory of serving Italian countryside cuisine. New owner Tara Pesta and managing partner Mauro Zeanella have been together for nine years, and while you’re under their roof, you’re part of their family. And, in their family, food comes first. Often reprinting the

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menu daily “because you can’t just order from the garden,” in the words of head chef Chris Carloni, each dish contains no more than a handful of ingredients. The modest wine selection takes shape with the menu in mind, available by the glass as a complement to the garden-fresh cuisine. “Emotion is a big part of food—so I especially like to play with emotions,” says Carloni, who started as a dishwasher under the previous ownership, and whose maturation to head chef echoes the establishment’s family ethic. “We take [ingredients] you would never consider ‘Italian food’ in America, and let them speak for themselves.”

Steeped in a tradition-sourced earnest respect for food, managing partner Zeanella lends additional authenticity to the team. “Everybody remembers tomato from spaghetti sauce—because that gives you the flavor of your soul,” Zeanella says. “If you don’t connect with nature [when dining], you will end up eating out of a can.” At Main Street, connecting with nature goes beyond being the first in line at the farmers’ market. It also means feeding the 27 egg-laying hens the kitchen scraps, and accepting that the contract farmer “doesn’t do” fruit. It means including the entire kitchen staff in planning the menu, and locally

sourcing all of the non-garden ingredients “because if you were to go to Italy in the country, this is what you’d find,” says Zeanella. Along those lines, it should be noted that dish modifications are discouraged at the restaurant, as is rushed American-style eating. “We like for a diner to discover this place themselves,” Zeanalla explains. So don’t tell them we sent you—just go. 3101 North Main St., Soquel, 477-9265, mainstreetgardencafe.com.


Main Street

Garden & Café Italian Countryside Cuisine Our “slow food” is inspired by the Italian countryside. Our dishes are handmade from simple, fresh ingredients sourced from our on-site garden or local producers, and you will always find a great selection of local and Italian wines to complement your meal.

Our weekly menu features… • A variety of appetizers including our melt-in-your mouth burrata • Fresh, seasonal salads with vegetables from our garden or the farmers market • Wood-fired, thin-crust Pizzas

• House-made Pastas made fresh daily • Entrees featuring locally sourced meat or fish, as well as vegetarian options • Old-fashioned gelato

Plan your next event! We are booking events for the holidays! Our private wine room seats 12-14 or larger groups are welcome in the dining room. Call the restaurant to have our events coordinator contact you!

Reservations: 831-477-9265 www.mainstreetgardencafe.com 3101 N. Main Street, Soquel Dinner:Wednesday–Sunday starts @ 5:30pm Lunch: Saturday & Sunday from 12–3pm Closed Monday & Tuesday gtweekly.com l food & wine l 17


Eats & Treats

The Basket Reuben

Our Kind Of Picnic Local foods come together in magical ways at the Picnic Basket By Lauren Schiff

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he Picnic Basket—brought to you by the owners of The Penny Ice Creamery—has been in operation since mid-2011, during which time it has opened the minds of Boardwalk-going tourists and wooed many a local, too. It was recently awarded The 2012 Golden Carrot Award, which recognizes local restaurants that provide particularly healthful food options to their patrons. In the case of The Picnic Basket, menu offerings provide a bountiful selection of creative dishes, constructed using fresh, natural, local, and organic ingredients. “In the process of developing hundreds of flavors for The Penny [Ice Creamery], we made amazing connections with local farmers, foragers, and food artisans,” says The

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Picnic Basket co-owner Zachary Davis. “Ice cream is a great medium for showcasing awesome ingredients, but it has its limits. We felt compelled to highlight all the local, organic, and seasonal goodness that abounds in the Santa Cruz region and The Picnic Basket emerged from this compulsion.” He and co-owner Kendra Baker have created a menu that is wholly seasonal, and that has a strong base in the local farming community. “I am continually amazed by the diversity of skill and creativity possessed by our local food community,” says Davis. “Between the farmers and the artisans, everything you need is here. We’ve got the butcher, the baker, the brewer, the vintner, [the] roaster, the grower—it’s awesome.”

One standout selection on The Picnic Basket’s current menu is the “Basket Reuben” ($8.50), which features locally made pastrami from El Salchichero, created by owner Chris LaVeque. The meat is smoked, first hot and then spiced and smoked cold, and is made with grass-fed beef from N-A Ranch just northwest of town. The pastrami comes on the “Picnic Loaf,” a sliced sandwich bread made by Santa Cruz’s Companion Bakeshop, with melted Swiss cheese, The Picnic Basket’s own smoked chipotle mayo, and tangy carrot slaw. Another highlight that is seasonal to the utmost extent is the “Market Salad” ($5.75), which, at the time of writing, featured summer squash from The Picnic Basket’s very own garden, giant blackberries from Ortiz

Family Farms, house basil pesto, Companion Bakeshop croutons, and mixed greens from Happy Boy Farms. For dessert, a variety of ice creams—from The Penny, of course—are offered. A fun, adultsonly take on the root beer float (which also appears on the menu) is the “Beer Float” ($8), which uses The Penny’s Tahitian Vanilla Bean ice cream. “When you’ve got beer from Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing and ice cream from The Penny in the same room,” says Davis, “it was bound to happen.” 125 Beach St., Santa Cruz, facebook.com/thepicnicbasketsc.


Benvenuti! Our Winter Specials are Back: Mondays:

All you can eat spaghetti

Tuesdays:

1¢ bottle of wine with 3 entrees (red or white)

Wednesdays: 5 courses- tasting menu $25 per person

Open Christmas Eve Make your reservations now! 5447 Hwy 9 Felton | 831-335-5551 www.OakTreeRistorante.com gtweekly.com l food & wine l 19


Eats & Treats

Malabar A home-cooked vegetarian paradise

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pon opening at its original location on Soquel Avenue in 1992, Malabar became a staple for health-conscious restaurant goers and anyone looking for quality ethnic food in Santa Cruz. In 2006, the restaurant moved to its current location on Front Street, conveniently located one block away from Santa Cruz’s bustling Pacific Avenue. Malabar’s all-vegetarian (and mostly vegan) menu features Asian fusion dishes inspired heavily by Sri Lankan cuisine, many of which work in tasty meat-free protein alternatives. Every dish is created with organic, locally grown produce found mostly at local farmers’ markets.

Ananda Weerasdaad, who helps run the restaurant, explains that Malabar was created to provide foodaware Santa Cruz residents with flavorful food that stands out from the rest of what the city offers. Weerasdaad helps scour farmers’ markets once or twice per week to ensure their dishes are created with the best, freshest ingredients. With a menu that will win over even the most carnivorous of diners, Weerasdaad hopes patrons can enjoy a delicious meal and feel good about what went into it. +DON’T MISS Tempeh Goereng ($8.50). 514 Front St., Santa Cruz. 831-458-3023. | TANISHA WALLIS

see Come the us at r’s Farme et Mark

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HHFreshFish.com

(831) 461-1576


Eats & Treats

Gabriella Cafe Try brunch at this popular portal of great food

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abriella Cafe hasn’t always featured the immense array of fresh local goods that it does today. When it opened nearly 20 years ago, owner and manager Paul Cocking says there wasn’t as much of a local abundance of quality foods, as the restaurant hadn’t yet built up the close relationships with local farms that it has now. Every week, Cocking gathers ingredients from his go-to farmers’ market vendors, and all other ingredients come from local farms. Cocking tells GT that he believes firmly in providing organic and local ingredients to his patrons: “It tastes better, it’s better for the planet, and it’s here,” he enthuses, adding, “I think everyone should do it.” +DON’T MISS Gabriella Cafe’s Sunday Brunch. Try the tomato-based Bouillabaisse, with Pel mussels, Dungeness crab, squid, tomato, and crostini ($21). 910 Cedar St., Santa Cruz, 457-1677, gabriellacafe.com. | LS

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Eats & Treats

Süda

Where healthy never means boring

W

Grilled salmon

hen restaurant owners Mike Pitt and Dan Voskoboynikov decided to open Süda, they had health-conscious eaters in mind. “A lot of people are concerned about what they eat now more than ever before,” Pitt says, who adds that the pair were spurred to start Süda based on a belief that Santa Cruz didn’t have enough restaurants that meld healthy food with a good ambiance and energy. As a result, Süda (which means “heart” in Estonian) was born. The restaurant, which opened in June, features California-inspired cuisine with a creative, healthy twist. Every dish is made with organic produce and organic, hormone-free meats. In addition to procuring produce from places like Santa Cruz’s Windmill Farm, Süda also grows fruits and vegetables at its very own farm in Corralitos. Pitt and Voskoboynikov have worked in another element that they believed was lacking in Santa Cruz: top-notch, masterful mixology. Their unique cocktail menu features fresh, seasonal ingredients that can be enjoyed alongside two-for-one appetizers during happy hour. +DON’T MISS The special fresh catch of the day, paired with an organic salad. Price varies.

with chipotle sauce

3910 Portola Drive, Santa Cruz, 600-7068, Facebook.com/SudaSC. | TW

Comfort • Chops • Cocktails Happy Hour $1 off drinks • 1/2 off apps Monday–Friday 4-6pm

Dinner Daily 5pm-Close Breakfast & Lunch Sat & Sun 9am-3pm

Banquet Facility r a v a ilable fo y a d li Ho Parties

831.476.2733 | 3326 Portola Dr. Santa Cruz | www.thepointchophouse.com 22 l food & wine


Eats & Treats

Solaire at Hotel Paradox

Farm to fork gets a make-over

P

SAL INGRAM

aradox’s exciting new gastronomical prospect, situated on Ocean Street, aims to pull off the farm-to-table vision with unique culinary prowess. Solaire serves up New American-style dishes with fresh local ingredients that shift with the seasons. Here, diners can enjoy breakfast, lunch, dinner, and small plates—all made even more enjoyable when paired with any of the impressive drinks at the bar. Solaire sources its produce and meat from local farms like Dirty Girl Produce, Happy Boy Farms and Route 1 Farms, according to executive chef Ross McKee. And, because produce at area farmers’ markets is “better and more fresh than anything on the shelves,” McKee says Solaire chefs will be going to local farmers’ markets two times per week to supplement their seasonal menus. Adding to this new establishment’s eco-credibility is the fact that it is also part of the Community Alliance with Family Farmers and the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Program. Ultimately, McKee says Solaire is all about taking advantage of the bounteous area in which it is located. “We live in an area with a great abundance of produce—everything is available here,” he enthuses. “We’re really spoiled.” Diners at Solaire are sure to be spoiled, too. +DON’T MISS Their signature Parisian-style gnocchi with herbs and foraged mushrooms in a cream sauce ($22).

611 Ocean St., Santa Cruz. 425-7100, thehotelparadox.com. | TW

Come Taste Solaire

HAPPYHOUR Monday – Friday, 4-7pm

$5

Appetizers and wines by the glass

STUFFED PIQUANTE PEPPERS M O N T E R E Y B AY C A L A M A R I , flash fried, lemon chips and basil CRAB CAKE FIRECRACKERS, c r i s p y s p r i n g ro l l s k i n , a s i a n h e r b s and ginger F R I E D C O K E FA R M S G R E E N S , shallots, capers, and grana padano A N T I PA S T O P L AT T E R , artisan salume, west coast cheese and pickled vegetables

R E S TA U R A N T + B A R

Located at Hotel Paradox 611 Ocean Street, Santa Cruz

“We are proud to serve fresh, local, organic, cage free, free range and sustainable food”

8 3 1 . 6 0 0 . 4 5 4 5 I s o l a i re re s t a u r a n t . c o m gtweekly.com l food & wine l 23


Eats & Treats

Ristorante Avanti New location, same stellar values at this local favorite

R

Wild nettle

ravioli. fresh ricotta, walnuts, cream lemon zest

istorante Avanti, now well settled into its new, bigger location just down the street from its old home, showcases a plethora of fresh, seasonal ingredients in its dishes. When GT asked owners Cindy and Paul Geise why they choose to be local and organic, they replied matter-of-factly that it’s just sensible business. Why, they replied, would they get ingredients from far away when quality is right here at their fingertips in Santa Cruz? When they can’t get their hands on certain local ingredients, whether they be out of season or unavailable for any other reason, there simply won’t be dishes served that use those foods. Another point of logic for them came down to what to do with the old spot: it’s now home to Pizzaria Avanti, which opened in October. +DON’T MISS The Monterey Bay Calamari Fritti, available only when the chefs can get a hold of Monterey Bay squid ($13). 1711 Mission St., Santa Cruz, 427-0135, ristoranteavanti.com. | LS

Holiday Parties at the Beach! Our unique setting provides the perfect backdrop for large group or holiday parties. We can customize your menu and take all the stress off of you—giving you the best holiday party ever!

Daily: 8am – 11pm 106 BEACH ST. AT THE SANTA CRUZ WHARF 423-5271 www.idealbarandgrill.com 24 l food & wine


y a c o a l t i e o n u q o i n n w t h A u Just 10 minutes north of Santa Cruz e Pacific Coast High

Restaurant Seasonal menu featuring local and organic ingredients, artisan crafted stone fireplace and high-ceiling redwood beams & a full bar.

Inn Apart from our great food we also invite you to stay in our inn where most rooms have ocean views. Special weekday rates available.

Events Live Music Every Tuesday and Saturday 6-9pm Tuesday: Taco Tuesday + live music

Thursday: Happy Hour and Wine tasting

Hours: Monday 8–3pm Tuesday–Sunday 8am–9pm Call for Reservations: (831) 426 8801 http://www.facebook.com/davenportroadhouse

All Photos by Rob Born

Wednesday: Prefix Menu for two: $30

1 Davenport Ave., Davenport www.davenportroadhouse.com gtweekly.com l food & wine l 25


Eats & Treats

Family-run Buttercup Cakes packs in superior ingredients and creative flavor combinations By Mikaela Todd

F

amily and baking: the two go hand in hand. For Buttercup Cakes and Farm House Frosting, business blends with quality family time as three generations of women find joy in creating cupcakes together. Buttercup Cakes opened in November 2011 and is co-owned by Carren Dixon, her mother Jan Wilson

and her daughter Hannah WilsonJames. Dixon says her mother developed the recipes while she now handles decorating. “She makes it look easy,” Dixon says of Wilson. “She started [making cupcakes] when I was a kid.” Buttercup Cakes took over its current location on Locust Street

from Chef Stephany Buswell’s store, The Wedding Stop and Cake Shoppe. Dixon says Buswell knew her mother and called her the “cake queen.” “My mother is an amazing baker,” says Dixon. “I can decorate, but I’m no baker.” Dixon and Wilson split the duties of creating new cupcakes and

keeping staff on track with old ones—a mighty task considering the shop offers 15 recurring flavors in addition to seasonal and new creations that result from the family’s constant experimentation with ingredients. The shop’s 15 staple flavors include many vegan options created by WilsonJames. Some of the current cupcakes include German chocolate, gluten-free carrot cake, and the newest flavor, vanilla lavender. The family plans to continue buying mostly local and organic ingredients for their cupcakes, and soon hopes to also use vegetables like beets (yes—beets belong in cupcakes, says Dixon), from their private garden on Swanton Road. “Anything we can get locally, we get locally,” says Dixon. Despite its tiny location, the familyowned-and-run business currently boasts seven employees, not including the three owners, and is expanding at a rapid rate. Dixon says she is “constantly [increasing her] hours in the kitchen as [the shop grows].” Dixon says that due to demand, her shop will continue to produce gluten-free as well as vegan options going into fall and winter, along with seasonal varieties. 109 Locust St., Santa Cruz, 466-0373.

Enjoy Santa Cruz Fresh Catch with a View!

MONDAYS

Local Flavors, Inspired Daily since 2005

$20 Gourmet 3 Course Meal with a Sample Glass of Wine

TUESDAYS Taco & Tequila Night, $3 Tacos, Specialty Margaritas

THURSDAYS Fresh & Local Specials Featuring Local Produce & Fresh Catch FRESH CATCH MADE YOUR WAY! You choose: 1. Your fish 2. How it is cooked 3. Your sides 493 Lake Avenue in Santa Cruz | 479-3430 Open Daily with Continuous Service www.johnnysharborside.com Located at entrance of Santa Cruz Harbor 26 l food & wine

HAPPY HOUR

Mon–Fri 3pm–6pm $3–$6 Appetizers | $3 Draft Beer $4 Margaritas—Martinis—Wine

BRUNCH

Served Sat & Sun 10am-2pm


Eats & Treats

Only The Best Mission Hill Creamery’s high-quality treats land on Pacific Avenue By Mikaela Todd

G

oing out of business was not an option for Mission Hill Creamery chef/owner Dave Kumec. “I’m not a quitter,” Kumec says simply. When the local ice cream shop was forced to relocate last year after a brief time spent at the Culinary Center of Santa Cruz on Front Street, Kumec shrank his business, selling only wholesale to about 40 companies in Northern California and at local Santa Cruz farmers’ markets. As of Sept. 15, Mission Hill is once again a Downtown Santa Cruz destination—this time on the main drag. At the new storefront, located on Pacific Avenue, customers can watch the ice cream being made and packed through the large, street-facing glass windows. Kumec calls this achievement “the dream realized.” Kumec relies on ingredients that are mostly organic and local because he “[doesn’t] like a bunch of junk in [his] food.” Kumec began the business with this philosophy in 2010 and has stuck to it ever since.

“My mission is to make the best ice cream in this country,” says Kumec. “The fact that I’m organic is because I think organic ingredients taste the best and they’re the purest.” Kumec says his ice cream business is inspired in part by Berthillon, an ice cream shop in France, where Kumec studied. He brought that influence with him to Santa Cruz, where he became bent on providing locals and tourists with quality ice cream made with only the best ingredients, which include some of the local and seasonal fruits and vegetables that Santa Cruz has to offer, such as strawberries and nectarines. “I live here,” Kumec says. “This is my community. This is what I want to do with the community.” 1101B Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz, 216-6421, missionhillcreamery.com.

• Fresh Sustainable Seafood • Organic Produce • Fine Wine • Aged Cheese • Daily Specials 831.458.1212 cafemare.com

Lunch: 11:30-2:30 | Dinner: 5-10 | Euro Brunch: Sat & Sun 10-2pm 740 Front Street, Suite 100

503 Water St., Santa Cruz (831) 425-1213 gtweekly.com l food & wine l 27


Eats & Treats

TREAT YOUR SELF CHOCOLATE

This downtown restaurant’s dessert menu features creations that showcase its namesake. Desserts at Chocolate aren’t overly sweet, and thus cater to a more adult palate. Lack of sugar doesn’t mean lack of flavor, though, with menu offerings like homemade Chocolate Mousse Truffles ($3/piece) and the Dark Chocolate Sin Cake A La Mode ($8.50), which features Chocolate’s popular flourless devil’s food chocolate cake with grated almonds, served warm alongside a scoop of the restaurant’s own vanilla gelato. 1522 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz, 427-9900, chocolatsantacruz.com.

Satisfy that sweet tooth with these local dessert picks By Lauren Schiff

THE BUTTERY

The Buttery’s Corner Cafe is located right next to its bakery, and guests can enjoy fresh, seasonal, homestyle baked goods after their meals. The Razzmatazz, which is offered only from June through November, is based on The Buttery’s most popular cake: chocolate devil’s food. The devil’s food is filled with raspberry buttercream and topped with chocolate ganache and glazed raspberries ($30 for a seven-inch cake). 702 Soquel Ave., Santa Cruz, 458-3020, butterybakery.com.

Gourmet dining, casual ambience and an up close ocean view —You’ll find it all right here! Happy Hour 3–6:30 Full Bar

(Closed on Tuesdays)

Across the street from the Main Beach at the corner of Beach and Main. (Free parking at 201 Main St.) 831-426-9063 | casablanca–santacruz.com 28 l food & wine

19 entrees for $19 or less! Wienerschnitzel Wednesdays $12.00 includes salad

Happy Hour Fridays 4–6pm 1/2 off all appetizers and $4 German Beers

Dinner nightly starting at 5pm Lunch service at 11


Eats & Treats

LE CIGARE VOLANT

Le Cigare Volant, the celebrated eatery at Bonny Doon Vineyard, offers a menu of strictly seasonal, modernstyle plates, where dishes may only be offered for one to three months at a time. Guests are encouraged to experience a multiple course meal meant for sharing, which also allows for leaving room for one of their edgy desserts. When it comes time to end your meal with something sweet, try this fall menu offering: the Honey, Milk and Tea Foam Cup with Caramel Marshmallow Crisps ($9). 328 Ingalls St., Santa Cruz, 425-6771, lecigarevolant.com.

BITTERSWEET BISTRO

Bittersweet Bistro offers a seasonal menu and homemade dishes and desserts. The Bistro’s sense of originality is showcased in the banana bread pudding special: a homemade pudding with brandied bananas, bittersweet chocolate sauce, and Jack Daniels chocolate ice cream, topped off with three-dimensional monkey and palm tree cookies for a playful flair ($13). 787 Rio Del Mar Blvd., Aptos, 662-9799, bittersweetbistro.com.

BUY A FLAVOR Get a second flavor FREE* *When you mention this ad

Voted "Top 20 Artisan Ice Cream Maker in the US"

aramel SaltedmCel and Sonoma ra Intense ca rfect rms the pe fo lt a s sea . e t balanc salty/swee

Bourbon Butter Pecan

Fresh Strawberry

Ricotta Fig

Mint Chocolate

Scoop shop: 1101B Pacific Ave, Santa Cruz (831) 216-6421 • www.missionhillcreamery.com gtweekly.com l food & wine l 29


Liquid Therapy

MOTIVation

Cocktail culture moves ever forward at Motiv’s upstairs lounge By Elizabeth Limbach

S

ome of the most luscious cocktails and most capable mixologists in town are found in the Motiv Lounge, a clandestine attic-like space above Motiv in Downtown Santa Cruz. One recent evening, rays of dimming sunlight and the soulful sounds of Otis Redding fill the sleek, dark space while Chance Welton tends bar. Mason jars crowd the counter, stocked with expected ingredients— olives, cucumbers, strawberries—and more unusual ones, like watermelon, red bell pepper, jalapeño and sage. “Whatever’s in season we try to pull from New Leaf [Community Market] and make something creative around those ingredients,” says Welton, who has been with Motiv since February 2012. Fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs go straight into drinks as well as into house-made simple syrups (a coconut milk syrup, for example, gives natural creaminess to Piña Coladas) and infusions (think: lavender ginger-infused Applejack brandy). From the sugar to the mixers, nothing on this bar is artificial. “We don’t even use bleached salts,” says Welton. “We get highquality Himalayan pink salt or black lava salt to do our margaritas and [similar] drinks.” The mantra for this bar is “nothing but the best,” and that applies to the spirits it stocks, as well. They boast one of the largest selections in town when it comes to tequilas and Scotch/whiskey/bourbon/ryes, and they don’t waste time on well liquors—or even first shelf varieties. The quality is such that, “with the

30 l food & wine

tequila and Scotch side, most of it is stuff you just want to drink neat,” adds Welton. But when a cocktail is calling your name, the lounge has plenty of enticing creations to choose from. The ever-evolving menu is comprised of inventive specialty drinks and timeless classics with original twists. The Soquel Sour ($8) is a shining example of the latter, bringing flavors like honeycomb and lavender to the traditional whiskey sour. The Mez-Cali ($9) could fall into either category: In true Motiv fashion, the drink is crafted around an above par spirit—smoked, organic Del Maguey MezCal Vida tequila. It’s handcrafted, smooth and unique, and complemented in the cocktail with lime, agave nectar, golden ginger, black sea salt and paprika. Frosty and refreshing with a subtle smoky aftertaste, it’s like the sexier, more mature cousin of the margarita. (This is the

drink Welton orders when he’s not working, if that’s any indication of just how good it is.) Despite the lounge’s high caliber libations, and because a) this is a college town and b) the downstairs portion of the establishment is somewhat of a club scene, Welton and the other skilled bartenders do still get orders for vodka Red Bulls and other run-of-the-mill drinks. To a mixologist with a culinary background, as is Welton’s case, this is a slightly sacrilegious request. “I say, ‘Well, before we jump to that, if you want something sweet and energizing and awesome, we can do other things,’” Welton says. He says it’s heartening to watch as patrons warm up to the idea of quality drinks—a process that’s accelerated by watching the pros at work. The creation of each cocktail is a gracefully orchestrated performance; the result is a skillfully crafted work of drinkable art. “A lot of times when you’re really going and in your zone making specialty cocktails, the whole half of the bar that’s in front of you will be quiet—just analyzing and seeing what’s going on,” says Welton. “It becomes a show, and people can be a part of it. They can see it and know what’s going in their cocktail.” 110 Pearl Alley, Santa Cruz, 429-8070, motivsc.com. Happy Hour is Monday-Friday, 4:30 – 7:30 p.m., and features $5 burgers with fries, $5 tacos (comes with three tacos with your choice of fish, steak, sweet potato, or chicken), and $6 specialty cocktails.


Holiday food festvals Tapas p Olé Mole Tapas p A Mexican Fusion

Nov. 23-25

A selection of regional Moles

Dec 12 -16

A Mexican Fusion

Dec 28-31

Tortilla Flats has served goumet Mexican food for over 30 years on the Central Coast. In addition to our exstensive menu we offer a an extensive menu, vegetarian specialties, house made desserts and our fabulous Original Margaritas

Tortilla Flats

4616 Soquel Dr Soquel CA 95073 831-476-1754 tortillaflatsdining.com

Handcrafted, award-winning wines:

Come Visit Us!

• Chardonnay from our certified organic vineyard

At the Winery in the Mountains

• Pinot Noir • The famous Bordeaux blend, 'Alloy'

Open Saturdays 12-5, near Miller Cut-off & Old San Jose-Soquel Rd. (near Summit Rd.) (408)353-2278

Select winegrapes, rich with flavor!

At the Surf City Tasting Room Open Thurs–Sun., 12-5 402 Ingalls St., Santa Cruz, (831)466-0559

A Leader in Organic and Sustainable Vineyard & Winery Practices

|

(408) 353-2278 • www.silvermtn.com gtweekly.com l food & wine l 31


Liquid Therapy

That’s The Spirit >

Fall in love with these local liquid delights Flight of the Pearl Martinis

> 32 l food & wine

With Bar and Beverage Manager Patrick Crook at the helm, the beloved, long-standing Shadowbrook Restaurant is keeping up with (and racing ahead of) the cocktail times. Infusions, in-house concoctions, herbs from the on-site garden, regional produce and classic-style glassware come together to form a cocktail list worth perusing. Luckily for those who can’t make up their minds, there is the Flight of the Pearl Martinis ($16)—four mini martinis made with fresh, rotating seasonal ingredients. “The key to this restaurant is [that] people propose here, they have their birthdays, weddings and anniversaries here,” says General Manager Rob McLaughlin, “so we already have the bar set high. People don’t want a normal experience when they come here.” And just like the restaurant itself, all of the drinks—but especially this strikingly presented martini foursome—are anything but average. 1750 Wharf Road, Capitola, 475-1511, shadowbrook-capitola.com. | EL

Quarter After Five A drink of this complexity—so balanced, so mysterious, and so, so tasty—could only come from one place: 515 Kitchen & Cocktails, the speakeasy-esque bar in Downtown Santa Cruz where every drink’s deliciousness is matched only by its quirkiness. The Quarter After Five (get the reference?) is comprised of nothing but spirits (Bulleit bourbon, Verve coffee-infused liqueur, ginger liqueur, cynar and bitters) but is seriously smooth and dangerously delightful ($10). The fact that it’s reminiscent of a Manhattan is fitting to the bar’s devotion to the classics. “We want to introduce people to classic cocktails with our own twists, as well as further the development of cock-

tail culture in Santa Cruz, and in general,” says Bar Manager Ethan Samuels. The bar sources fresh, local ingredients and is always cooking up homemade mixers like infusions, syrups and ginger beer—ensuring the drinks are not only luscious, but also of the highest quality. Happy hour is seven days a week from 4 to 7 p.m. 515 Cedar St., Santa Cruz, 425-5051, 515santacruz.com. | EL

The Hurricane Revel in the Mardi Gras spirit anytime of the year with Louie’s Cajun Kitchen and Bourbon Bar’s signature cocktail. Pair the rum-based beverage with some of the restaurant’s Cajun culinary stylings for a truly N’Awlins experience ($9). 110 Church St., Santa Cruz, 429-2000, louiescajunkitchen.com. | EL

Tequila Tastings “Welcome to the Tequila Dojo,” says Scott Cook, bar manager of Little Tampico’s brand new Tequila Bar, with a bow. The new addition to the Soquel Village restaurant boasts 83 different types of tequila, with two-ounce pours ranging from $5.50 to $80 apiece. Cook’s true passion, he explains, is tequila education, and his Tequila Dojo is a sort of club that allows patrons to eventually earn a black belt in tasting. House margaritas are made with freshly squeezed lime, Cook’s own homemade mix, two-ounces of a tequila of choice, and only five drops of sour mix. 2605 Main St., Soquel, 475-4700, littletampico.com. | LAUREN SCHIFF


Ha pp y

Sp

ec Wi ial Mon ne ty -T & Co hu Ap ck rs pe ta . 3 ti ils -6 ze , D pm r Sp raf ec t ia Be ls er

Ho ur

Lunch • Dinner • Appetizers • Specialty Cocktails Food: 11am-9pm Fri/Sat 10pm Drinks: 11am-late. (831) 600-7068 • 3910 Portola Dr. Santa Cruz gtweekly.com l food & wine l 33


Liquid Therapy

Why Organic? S

anta Cruz Mountain Brewing owner and brewer Emily Thomas was raised with an appreciation for organic food and drink and has worked that concept into the way she and the SCMB team brew beer: it’s 100 percent organic, but also tasty and creative. We sat down with her to learn more about the brewery’s influences, vision and more. WHAT DREW YOU TO BREWING ORGANIC BEER? When I first started home brewing, Seven Bridges had just started their cooperative [in 1997] and they sold organic ingredients. We started brewing with all organic hops and organic malts. Hops in particular often has a lot of pesticides in it, so having that ingredient be organic was

34 l food & wine

important for us. Operating a sustainable brewery is also a priority. HOW DOES THE BREWERY FUNCTION SUSTAINABLY? It’s really about what you do with your waste after brewing. We take all of our spent grains—it takes about 500 pounds of barley to make one of our batches of beer—and all of that goes to the woman [Rebecca King] who runs Garden Variety Cheese down in Royal Oaks. She uses all the grain and, in turn, we grow our organic hops on her farm. WHAT ARE THE DRIVING IDEAS BEHIND THE ORGANIC BREWING MOVEMENT? Not using genetically modified ingredients is

Emily Thomas explains Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing’s eco-friendly ethos By Joel Hersch

probably the biggest part of it. The movement is spurred by people who think it’s important to know what you put in your body. Also, for a long time you didn’t have to use organic hops when brewing beer for it to be called organic, and that kind of defeated the purpose. WHAT ARE YOUR MOST POPULAR BEERS RIGHT NOW? Our India Pale Ale and Amber Ale are the biggest sellers. Then we also do “crazy beers.” We usually have three to four seasonals. We get a lot of great feedback for our Olallieberry beer and we have a Horchata Pale Ale. We can kind of be as creative as we want because we only make 200 gallons at a time.

WHAT IS NEXT FOR SANTA CRUZ MOUNTAIN BREWING? We’re working on a new, local business venture that’s still a bit hush-hush, but it really emphasizes pairing beer with food and ways to use beer in food preparation, so that’s exciting. … That being said, we have announced that we will be hosting two sessions of the Twisted Tasting, [on] Feb. 16 [2013]—an amazing event that takes place at the Top of the Ritt [in the Rittenhouse Building] during San Francisco Beer Week. [They’re] the wildest, most innovative beers paired with the most extreme local food scene. 402 Ingalls St., 425-4900, scmbrew.com.


gtweekly.com l food & wine l 35


5

Liquid Therapy

Must-Try

Brews

volume and a low bitter count, at just 22 International Bittering Units (IBU) The brewer suggests pairing this beer with a hearty stew. Pints $5; pitcher $16; happy hour pints $3.00; happy hour pitchers $12.

ABC Pale Ale: Seabright Brewery The experimental ABC is The Baltic Porter: Uncommon Brewers Available at The Parish Publick House, this dark and smooth, award-winning ale comes on with some intensity but quickly balances out. Brewed with licorice root and star anise, the ingredients give it a smoky chocolate malt character. This unfiltered, unpasteurized, organic beer packs a wallop with a 7.8 percent alcohol by volume but has a surprisingly light body.

Comes in a 16 oz. can for $6 and is served in a snifter (see photo).

1892 Smoked Ale: Boulder Creek Brewery The 1892 (the year Boulder Creek’s first fire department was established) is brewed in the style of a Scottish ale, with its layering of caramel flavors, rich, full body, and smoky flavor, which comes from brewing with smoked malt. It has a 6.1 percent alcohol by

Happy Hour Everyday 3–6pm $3 Beer $4 House Margaritas 1/2 Off Appetizers

brewed with Apollo, Bravo and Columbus hops and Munich Malt. It’s a medium-bodied, easy-to-drink beer with amber and copper colors and a citrusy flavor. This is a prime beer for when you’re in the mood to have more than a few, with its 6.2 percent alcohol content and low bitter units, at 35 IBU. Pint $5; pitcher $12; happy hour pints; $3.00; happy hour pitchers $7.

Sante Adairius Rustic Ales: 831 IPA This goldencolored, unfiltered IPA is made with Magnum, Columbus and Citrus hops, giving it a variety of distinct aromas— most prominently grapefruit and marijuana. It has a high bitters count at 75 IBU and also packs a punch with 7.2 percent alcohol content. Suggested by brewer to pair with a Tacos Moreno burrito. Pint $5.

The Amber Ale: Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing One of the brewery’s flagship organic beers, the Amber Ale is a medium-bodied, copper-colored brew that pairs well with most foods. Its blend of caramel malts, light hops, and a 5 percent alcohol by volume gives the Amber a rich, balanced flavor. 26 IBU. Pints $5; Happy hour $3.50. Also available in 22 oz. bottles for $4.75. | JH

OPEN ALL DAY for Lunch and Dinner!

TEQUILA TASTING All Day Everyday!

New $5 BBQ Menu Chicken Wings Tri Tip Sandwich Bacon Wrapped Sausage $3 during Happy Hour

Fridays & Saturdays Music from Local DJs 9pm–Close

231 Esplanade, Capitola Village (831)476-2263 36 l food & wine


• GREAT FOOD • • GREAT DRINKS • • GREAT TIME! • Happy Hour 4-6 & 11-Midnight Daily – All Day Sunday

The Best Damn Bar Food In Town Featuring: Maiden Wings (choice of Buffalo, Honey Stung Buffalo, Tangy Garlic, Teriyaki, or Run to the Hills Hot ) served with crisp celery sticks and blue cheese dressing – 8

Dixie Pickles Crisp dill pickle spears coated with our homemade beer-batter and fried. Served with Ranch dressing – 7 Hangover Helper Two Over Medium fried eggs, avocado, bacon, American cheese, and Mayo on grilled sourdough – 8

The Belushi – Not approved by the AHA. A stuffed half pound-er with blue cheese, bacon, Aged Irish cheddar, and American cheese. Then we beer batter it, deep fry it, and wish you all the best – 14

(831) 421-0507

841 Almar Ave, Santa Cruz, CA

Open 11am–2am Kitchen open till midnight

(located on the corner of Mission St. Safeway Complex)

www.theparishpublickhouse.com

BUNNYS SHOES

1350 Pacific Ave Downtown Santa Cruz

BUNNYS CLOTHING & GIFTS

1349 Pacific Ave Downtown Santa Cruz

BUNNYS SHOES BELLA FIORI HATS

7000 Soquel Dr. Aptos

gtweekly.com l food & wine l 37


Liquid Therapy

Choice of: Roasted Duck and Goat Cheese Quesadilla Bacon Cheddar Angus Burger and Fries Fish Tacos with Black Beans Grilled Cheese and Fries with swiss, brie and caramelized onions

Passport Day Four times a year, the Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers Association invites wine lovers and rookies, alike, to pick up a “passport” and take off on a journey to visit the wineries that call our appellation home. The next Passport Day will be Saturday, Nov. 17, when one $45 passport (available at most participating wineries while supplies last) gets the holder a complimentary tasting at each involved winery. How many stamps will your passport boast? Visit scmwa.com for more information. | EL

Organic Wine Trail of the Santa Cruz Mountains There’s a lot more to creating a certified organic wine than simply avoiding pesticides. The process of organic certification is a rigorous (and honorable) undertaking—and one worth celebrating. To do so, take a jaunt down the Organic Wine Trail of the Santa Cruz Mountains, which was created as a way to recognize CCOF-certified vineyards in our own backyard. The three current stops on the trail are Cooper-Garrod Estate Vineyards, Silver Mountain Vineyards, and Alfaro Family Vineyards & Winery. Visit organicwinetrail.org for more information. | KELLYANN KELSO

Surf City Vintners

$

95

5

including…

Mini Bennie: Egg ben-addict with 1 egg and potatoes

Breakfast | Lunch | Dinner | Everyday 8am-9pm 1102 Pacific Avenue | Downtown Santa Cruz 420-0135 | www.hoffmanssantacruz.com 38 l food & wine

There’s something special in the air at the Swift Street Courtyard, on Santa Cruz’s Westside—and it’s not just the wafting ocean smells from West Cliff Drive or the mouth-watering aromas from Kelly’s French Bakery and El Salchichero butchery. It’s the electric energy of 13 wineries and tasting rooms cozied up together in one small area, serving unique and memorable local wines to a constant crowd of visitors. Known collectively as Surf City Vintners, the coalition of neighborly winemakers is shaking up Santa Cruz wine culture and making our city (and the Westside, in particular) an irresistible wine-tasting destination in its own right. The group has a few notable events coming up, so prep your palate and pick your designated driver. The Art & Wine Bazaar on Friday, Nov. 23, which is a benefit for the Walnut Avenue Women’s Center, will feature local art and wine tasting, with artwork available for purchase. Also, Surf City University will open its winter semester with a fun, informal class on Sparkling Wines taught by Barry Jackson of Equinox Champagne Cellar on Sunday, Dec. 2, followed by a new class each month through March 2013. Students will receive a “diploma” in sip-ology. Visit surfcityvintners.com for more information.

| EL AND KK


Breakfast – Lunch – Dinner 465-1105 • 1710 Brommer St., Santa Cruz 438-2567 • 95 Mount Hermon Rd, scotts Valley gtweekly.com l food & wine l 39


By Josie Cowden Pelican Ranch Winery: Pinotage, 2010 Luscious flavors of black cherry, loganberries and blackberries make this a very drinkable wine for any occasion. Aromatic undertones round out the delicious experience. Winemaker Phil Crews and his wife Peggy are justly proud of this unusual South African varietal—made from grapes grown in the Shenandoah Valley. ($30) 102 Kennedy Drive, Capitola, 426-6911, pelicanranch.com.

Silver Mountain Vineyards: Alloy 2006 One of the most popular wines in the area, Silver Mountain’s winemaker Jerold O’Brien won a double gold in this year’s Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers Association’s commercial wine competition for this vibrant and complex Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc. ($28, with 15 percent discount on a case) 402 Ingalls St., Santa Cruz, 466-0559, silvermtn.com.

Windy Oaks Estate Vineyards & Winery: Pinot Noir Terra Narro 2009 It’s hard to pick a particular Pinot from the eight or so different ones made at Windy Oaks by Jim Schultze, but the reasonably priced estate Terra Narro is superb. This ruby beauty is a great everyday drinking wine. An enticing earthy aroma—plus cherry and red berry on the nose, as well—and flavors of spice and pepper all add to its intrigue. ($29) 550 Hazel Dell Road, Corralitos, 786-9463, windyoaksestate.com.

Muns Vineyard: Syrah 2009 This sexy Syrah with a silky mouthfeel is not for the faint of heart. Full bodied and bursting with rich fruit aromas of blackberry and plum, this gorgeous wine is awash with characteristic Rhône meatiness. Flavors of chocolate, coffee, allspice and vanilla make this a perfect wine to drink anytime. It’s made by expert winemaker Ed Muns. ($25) P.O. Box 1877, Los Gatos, (408) 234-2079, munsvineyard.com. Pleasant Valley Vineyards: Austin Craig Zinfandel 2009 Big, bold, luscious and deliciously good, this sinful Zinful is packed with flavors of raspberry, blackberry, cherry and ripe plum. Winemaker Craig Handley makes truly superior wine— and always from the best grapes. With its typical jammy fruit and peppery notes, this beautiful Zin is a treat for the mouth. Visit the winery to try the rest of Handley’s fine wines. 600 Pleasant Valley Road, Aptos, 288-0074, pvvines.com.

40 l food & wine

Sones Cellars: Canción del Mar 2010 A delightful blend of Pinot Gris, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc made by experienced winemaker Michael Sones. White peach, quince and jasmine—with a touch of pippin apple and toasted almond—make this beautiful wine a good choice to pair with many different kinds of food. 334-B Ingalls St., Santa Cruz, 420-1552, sonescellars.com

Sarah’s Vineyard: Chardonnay I well remember the first time I tasted Sarah’s Vineyard Chardonnay—at an event in Los Gatos several years ago—and it impressed me greatly. The 2009 Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay has aromas and flavors of ripe apple and pear, with a touch of lemon and light oak, so it’s delightfully crisp and drinkable without being overly buttery. ($26) 2005 Hecker Pass Highway, Gilroy, (408) 847-1947.

Alfaro Family Vineyards & Winery: Viognier 2011 Viognier is one of my favorite wines and winemaker Richard Alfaro makes a lovely one—full of floral notes and with flavors of ripe apricots and peach pie. Full bodied and dry, this wine pairs particularly well with spicy food, but I love of glass of it just on its own. ($20) 420 Hames Road, Corralitos, 728-5172, alfarowine.com.

Bonny Doon Vineyard: Riesling 2006 Vibrant and vivacious, this Riesling— named Riesling to Live—really tickles the taste buds. Made in the traditional méthode champenoise style, it has all the bubbly fun of prime champagne. Packaged in an upbeat style with a beer-cap top and purple ribbon, this Riesling can be opened up to celebrate any occasion—or just to make you feel happy. ($35) Bonny Doon Vineyard, 328 Ingalls St., Santa Cruz, 425-4518, bonnydoonvineyard.com.

Trout Gulch Vineyards: Sauvignon Blanc 2010 Winning a well-deserved double gold in this year’s Santa Cruz Mountains Winegrowers Association’s commercial wine competition, this flinty wine has beautiful aromas of citrus and cut grass followed by opulent grapefruit, kiwi and gooseberry flavors. Dry and fruity fresh, winemaker Gerry Turgeon’s Sauvignon Blanc is an excellent buy. ($18) 427 Swift St., Santa Cruz (in the Equinox Champagne tasting room), 471-2705, troutgulchvineyards.com.


d auregar e 2009 Be lliqu nay Meta Chardon ow Only 14.99 9N Reg 25.9 Noir ill Pinot H e in V 2009 ntains ruz Mou siast Santa C thu Wine En 90 Points ow Only 14.99 0N Reg 30.0 yrah umbre S 2008 Cr Mountains, ruz Santa C ow Only 29.99 N 9 .9 Reg 69

gtweekly.com l food & wine l 41


Liquid Therapy

Celebrating twenty years

831.457.1677 www.gabriellacafe.com

Uncorked In Aptos Home of the Fairy Wine Mother Open 1st Saturdays at 328 Ingalls – Cellar (facing New Leaf Parking Lot),

Festivals, and by Appointment! $3 Tastings

Join us for our upcoming “Holiday Party Planning & Sparkling Tasting” November 3rd. For more information:

www.warginwines.com 831.531.8108 42 l food & wine

Corralitos Wine Company brings a unique wine tasting experience to Aptos By Josie Cowden

A

s the enjoyment of wine continues to increase and wine-tasting trips become ever more popular, it’s not surprising that new wineries and tasting rooms are constantly springing up. One of the newest on the local scene is the Corralitos Wine Company, which opened a tasting room in March of this year. Set deep into a hillside, it has a naturally cool and even cavelike temperature—perfect for storing wine. The Corralitos Wine Company really began in 1999 when a group of friends got together at harvest to bottle the fruits of their labor. As they continued doing this over the years, their skills improved like fine wine. Initially limited to online sales, the group thought they should get more serious and market their efforts, so they formed their own business in 2007—and the Corralitos Wine Company was born. Founded by vintner Rob Marani and seven other dedicated winemakers, they are now making four exceptional wines—Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and Merlot. Jerry Starr (pictured right), co-founder and director of sales and marketing, is thrilled to be

part of the new company. As a certified sommelier, he appreciates good wine and is happy to be working in the tasting room at weekends. “We have the most unique tasting room anywhere,” says Starr. “Besides being one of the smallest tasting rooms I have managed, and one of the most intimate, it’s in the unlikely—but very conveniently located—kitchen of Store More America in Aptos on the frontage road between Rio Del Mar and Freedom Boulevard. It’s one of the most accessible tasting rooms in the area—kind of like Surf City Vintners. It’s easy to get to and we have excellent wine.” Grapes are sourced from Deer Park Vineyards, by the Rio Del Mar Boulevard exit off of Highway 1, and elsewhere also, but more estate vineyards have been planted for the future. The Corralitos Wine Company is already turning out some impressive wines, and it’s on the cards they will get even better. 9687 Soquel Drive, Aptos, 709-1500, corralitoswinecompany.com.


Liquid Therapy

Winemaker To Watch Olivia Teutschel joins the ranks of local vintners By Josie Cowden livia Teutschel’s interest in wine, mingled with a desire to study agriculture, took her to Cal Poly, San Luis Obispo in 2005 for an agriculture course that included winemaking and viticulture—the perfect blend of what she was after. Hailing from Aptos, Teutschel grew up surrounded by wineries in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Her aunt and uncle live in Soquel and are wine club members of Soquel Vineyards, so as soon as she turned 21, she went with them to taste their wines. “My aunt and uncle introduced me to [Soquel Vineyards owners] Peter and Paul Bargetto, and they realized I was interested in wine, so they eventually offered me a job. In November 2010 I started pouring regularly on weekends,” Teutschel says, adding that she was glad of the opportunity to learn more about wine. But then another opportunity arose early in 2011 to go and work a harvest in New Zealand at Vavasour Winery in Marlborough’s Awatere Valley—an invaluable experience to do hands-on work in the vineyard. Whilst in New Zealand, Teutschel, now 25, learned there was a job opening at Bargetto Winery in Soquel as a lab technician and oenologist. (Peter and Paul Bargetto of Soquel Vineyards

are relatives of the Bargetto Winery owners, but they are two different wineries.) “I applied from New Zealand,” Teutschel says, “went for an interview when I came back from New Zealand in May 2011, and they gave me the job.” In May 2012, she became assistant winemaker to Michael Sones at Bargetto Winery. “Michael is definitely a driving force [of the winery],” Teutschel says of the head winemaker. “He has a wealth of knowledge and I’m learning a lot from him. And I love the Bargetto family— they have been going for so long.” Meanwhile, Teutschel continues to pour wine on the weekends at Soquel Vineyards. “I’m kind of a workaholic,” Teutschel says, “so it all works out.” But the icing on the cake was making her very own wine at Soquel Vineyards—a 2011 Olivia’s Reserve called O’s Chardonnay, Edna Valley. “Soquel Vineyards gave me full reign to make my own wine, and I wanted to make it as close to the original grape flavors as possible,” she says of the Chardonnay. “I’m very happy doing what I’m doing,” Teutschel adds. “And maybe one day I might start my own brand or have my own winery.” Olivia Teutschel’s wine is available at Soquel Vineyards, 8063 Glen Haven Road, Soquel, 462-9045, soquelvineyards.com. gtweekly.com l food & wine l 43


Listings AMERICAN AQUARIUS AT THE DREAM INN 175 West Cliff Drive, Santa Cruz, 460-5012, dreaminnsantacruz.com. An American bistro that features sustainable seafood, local, organic produce and an impressive selection of local wines, as well as those from Monterey and San Luis Obispo counties. Enjoy the stunning view and relax in the cool atmosphere. BROWN RANCH MARKETPLACE 3555 Clares St., next to the Capitola Mall, brownranch.com. Here you’ll enjoy a plethora of fabulous options like August Moon Sushi Café, Crown Café Deli & Catering, Fresh Choice, Jamba Juice, Mayflower Chinese, Taqueria Tepeque, Trader Joe’s, Yogurt Express, and Zizzo’s Coffee. CAFÉ CRUZ 2621 41st Ave., Soquel, 476-3801, cafecruz.com. A hit with locals and travelers, Café Cruz stands out for its commitment to serving some of most creative continental cuisine you could imagine. Locavores and foodies take note that they incorporate local, healthy ingredients that are sustainably sourced. Coupled with a superior wine list, it makes this culinary haven, well, a haven. Take a look

at their wines from local wineries such as Soquel Vineyards, Beauregard, Hunter Hill and more. THE CREPE PLACE 134 Soquel Ave., Santa Cruz., 429-6994, thecrepeplace.com. This beloved establishment has been serving up— you guessed it—delectable crepes since 1973. Unique, lodge-like décor imbues the Crepe Place with instant character, and the outdoor garden is a peaceful place to dine or enjoy a masterful cocktail. An extensive selection of single malts and an Absinthe Night every Tuesday makes the bar a popular destination for those who appreciate fine spirits. CROW’S NEST 2218 East Cliff Drive, Santa Cruz. Call 476-4560, crowsnest-santacruz.com. Lively, happening and situated right on the water—this is the perfect Santa Cruz dining experience. Check out their comedy night, and you won’t be disappointed. The stellar menu is defined by variety—fresh seafood, steaks, chicken and stellar appetizers. It also boasts an in-house rotisserie and a large salad bar, plus homemade desserts.

HINDQUARTER BAR & GRILL 303 Soquel Ave., Santa Cruz, 426-7770, thehindquarter.com. Hindquarter’s Smoky Platter has a bit of everything, including Chicago baby back ribs. The restaurant boasts more than a few specialties: aged Angus top sirloin steaks, catch-ofthe-day fish, live Maine lobster, pastas, burgers and steak-cut french fries are among them. All their quality meats are house smoked. Enjoy their wine list, which features local picks from Bonny Doon Vineyards, Storrs Winery and more. IDEAL BAR & GRILL 106 Beach St., Santa Cruz, 423-5271, idealbarandgrill.com. Fish, steaks and pasta dishes come alive here at a venue with some of the best views in town. You’ll appreciate their fantastic specials, karaoke and happy hour. LINWOOD’S BAR & GRILL AT CHAMINADE RESORT & SPA 1 Chaminade Lane, Santa Cruz, 475-5600, 800-283-6569, chaminade.com. Linwood’s Bar & Grill has a selection of appetizers, sandwiches, salads, light fare and entrees. Live music some weekends. It’s where the locals go when they want to really treat themselves to something special. Try

the Roast Pork Tenderloin with dry chili rub, mango glaze and ancho vinaigrette ($24). PARADISE BEACH GRILLE 215 Esplanade, Capitola, 476-4900, paradisebeachgrille.com. Considered one of the best restaurants in Capitola, this culinary paradise overlooks the striking Monterey Bay. You’ll find infused flavors of the Hawaiian Islands here as well as authentic California cuisine. Some delicacies include an amazing array of fish entrees and meat dishes as well, all purchased from sustainable, hormone-free sources. The extensive local wine list is a plus—so are the great martinis. THE POINT CHOPHOUSE & LOUNGE 3326 Portola Drive, Santa Cruz, 476-2733, thepointchophouse.com. This popular and affordable steakhouse offers seafood, chicken and pasta, and soups and salads are included with entrées. The restaurant is equipped with a full bar and big-screen TV. Better still is that The Point features the finest California wines and boasts nightly dinner specials. Great place for an easy meal. You’ll be impressed.

WOOD-FIRED PIZZA • ORIGINAL RECIPE SAUCES • HANDMADE DOUGH

! New n Glutee Fre

featuring WOOD-FIRED pizza build-to-suit or combinations vegan option • organic salads homemade soups and desserts beer and wine to dine-in or TAKE OUT ping-pong • checkers • smiling faces!

eat and be happy

429.1856

call

hours

Tuesday – Sunday 4:00 to 9:30pm-ish

537 seabright ave santa cruz • www.engferpizzaworks.com 44 l food & wine


S SU WE W

Y TSS HT

$25 3-c ou rse me nu $15 bot tles of local “ BIG HO USE ” wi n e

TAP TA

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Ser ved da ily in the lou nge from 3:3 0 p.m .

Live jaz z & dri nk spe cials from 6:3 0 p.m . 175 West Cliff Drive San ta Cruz, CA 831.460 .5012 jdvh otels.com/aquarius

1700 Portola Dr, Santa Cruz Open 7 days a week 11am-8pm 479-3299 AlohaIslandgrille.com gtweekly.com l food & wine l 45


Listings REBECCA’S AT THE TANNERY 1060 River St., Ste. 112, 426-3353, rebeccasatthetannery.com. Located in the innovative Tannery Arts Center, among inspired artists in myriad mediums, Rebecca's at the Tannery serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The inimitable Rebecca's Mighty Muffins are available here fresh daily along with breakfast burritos, fresh salads, and light bites for dinner. The restaurant features an espresso bar, beer and wine, as well as a welcoming ambience and a WiFi network for customers. You might come for the delicious food, but you'll stay under the elevated roof just because it's beautiful.

a romantic setting and is reached by a cable car, or by walking through the spectacular garden. The bar area with the fireplace is the ideal for drinks and small bites such as gourmet pizza, a steak sandwich or pasta. Be sure to check out their specials as well as an extensive list of imported and local wines. Try: Steak and Scampi ($32.95).

SEVERINO’S BAR & GRILL 7500 Old Dominion Court, Aptos, 688-8987. The refined yet comfortable setting complements the awardwinning menu, which features seafood, pastas and a variety of meat dishes. Severino’s is open for breakfast, brunch, lunch, dinner and happy hour. We recommend the Stuffed Chicken with prosciutto, Swiss cheese, and basil ($18.99).

WOODIE’S CAFÉ 25 Municipal Wharf, Santa Cruz, 421-9410. Inspired by the Woodie’s on the Wharf event, Woodie’s Café is fun, casual, affordable and located on the beautiful Santa Cruz Municipal Wharf. Order up anything from Killer Burgers and Righteous Ribs to Screamin’ Starters and Epic Entrees.

SHADOWBROOK RESTAURANT 1750 Wharf Road, Capitola, 4751511, shadowbrook-capitola.com. This well-known “elegant and comfortably casual” restaurant sits in

WINGSTOP 845 Almar Ave., Santa Cruz, 454-9464, wingstop.com. It’s all about chicken wings—tasty ones at that. Take your pick from a wide variety of wings and sauces. Check out the campus special, no doubt a winning option for hungry university students.

ZACHARY’S RESTAURANT 819 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz, 427-0646. A local gem among “greasy spoons” everywhere, Zachary’s is the perfect spot. The omelets may be impressive, but actually, everything on the menu here is pretty dynamic—and bountiful. Try Mike’s Mess ($10.95).

ZELDA’S 203 Esplanade, Capitola, 475-4900, zeldasonthebeach.com. Enjoy happy hour, comedy, music and prime rib night. You’ll also want to check out their incredible selection of seafood as well as their meat dishes. Consider ordering this one: Grilled Honey Salmon ($22).

ASIAN AKIRA 1222 Soquel Ave., Santa Cruz, 600-7093, akirachefs.com. The newest hotspot in midtown, Akira was recently opened by Dustin Murata and Greyson Leek formerly of Sushi Garden. Akira is open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. everyday and offers an extensive vegetarian menu and vast selection of rolls for everyone. CANTON 900 41st Ave., Santa Cruz, 475-8751, cantonsantacruz.com. Specializes in Cantonese and Szechuan cuisine with Mandarin, Thai, Vietnamese, and Japanese offerings. Family recipes make flavorful use of fresh ingredients. Vegetarian-friendly. Choice beer, wine, and sake selections. Happy Hour is from 3-6 p.m. daily and all day Wednesday with $3 drinks and appetizers. Free WiFi.

CHARLIE HONG KONG 1141 Soquel Ave., Santa Cruz, 426-5664, charliehongkong.com. Continually voted Best Meal For A Deal in GT’s annual Readers Poll, Charlie Hong Kong wins points for its “organic Asian street food.” Plus: you get quite a bit for your buck—organic veggies and savory meats. Their Vietnamese sandwiches are not to be missed. Take note: the noodle and rice bowls are vegan-based. We recommend the Gado Gado—a stir-fried organic veggie medley with mushrooms, black bean sauce and spicy peanut sauce ($6.25). GEISHA 200 Monterey Ave., Capitola, 464-3328. One of the few completely sustainable sushi restaurants in the country, Geisha’s mindful take on sushi preparation is remarkable—but so, too, are the inventive choices you’ll discover here. The charming décor is just an added bonus. MAYFLOWER CHINESE RESTAURANT 3555 Clares St., Capitola, 476-4688. One of the best things about Mayflower is their ability to cook truly authentic Chinese cuisine without the use of MSG. You’ll be impressed by the vibrant and delicious flavors used. Try: Sweet & Sour Pork ($9.70).

It’s Turkey Time! Order Now! For Thanksgiving Our family run butcher shop proudly offer the best in Fresh, Smoked, Brined or Wine n’ Spice Marinated turkeys. Our Award Winning smoked Ham can be ordered sliced, tied and honey glazed as well as whole or 1/2. We also feature Prime-Rib which can be cut n/ tied & seasoned, 3rib, or 4rib.

Freedom Meat Lockers 160 Hi Grade Lane • Freedom • Tues–Sat 9–6 Easy to find – only 10 minutes from Santa Cruz

831.724.4355 46 l food & wine

freedommeatlockers.com

AWARDED

BEST THIOANM2011

IN TH&EBNESAT in State 5 years in

a row!


Listings MAY’S SUSHI 1800 Soquel Ave., Santa Cruz, 427-0201. From its cuts of sashimi to generous rolls, May’s stands out. This is a great local spot that continues to win raves. Eat this: Dragon Roll ($12.95). MOBO SUSHI 105 River St., Santa Cruz, 425-1700, mobosushirestaurant.com. One of the best sushi spots in the area, Mobo offers up a huge variety of selections including amazing vegetarian rolls. A great local portal with ample seating and an outdoor patio. Beyond sushi, you can nosh on the impressive Japanese food found here. PACIFIC THAI 1319 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz, 420-1700. pacificthaisantacruz.net. Reasonably priced Thai food with a more local sensibility, including excellent boba teas and prompt service for take-out. Check out “Thai Tuesdays”—take $1 off all Thai teas. SABIENG THAI CUISINE 1218 Mission St., Santa Cruz, 425-1020. Solid, filling curries and noodle dishes with all the traditional favorites and a choice of Thai beverages. SAWASDEE THAI CUISINE 5050 Soquel Drive, Soquel, 462-5051, sawasdeesoquel.com. Husband-andwife owners Bill and Dee Hongmanee,

both born in Thailand, have drawn from every region of Thailand to build their menu, including some unusual additions like pumpkin red curry. A must-visit for people who think they have sampled everything Thai food has to offer. SUSHI GARDEN 820 Bay Ave., Capitola, 464-9192; 1441 Main St., Watsonville, sushi-garden.com. Traditional nigiri is served in plentiful portions, and there is a large sake list for enthusiasts to peruse. In fact, Sushi Garden is known for its occasional sake-tasting parties. Birthday diners eat free. TAKARA JAPANESE RESTAURANT SUSHI BAR & GRILL 3775 Capitola Road, Capitola, 464-1818, takarasushi.com. Delicious and authentic Japanese cuisine with a sushi bar and grill. With a huge variety of inventive hot and cold rolls plus mouth-watering entrees, there’s something for everyone.

BURGERS & PIZZAS BETTY BURGERS & BETTY’S EAT INN 1000 41st Ave., Capitola, 475-5901; 505 Seabright Ave., Santa Cruz, 423-8190; 1222 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz; bettyburgers.com. Serving up delicious burgers (made

from Black Angus beef) in three prime locations, Betty’s is a beauty. We dig the fries, onion rings, shakes and all that other good stuff. Eat this: Point Grinder—bacon, mushroom, blue cheese, green onion ($7.50). Betty’s Eat Inn brings the goods to Pacific Avenue. BURGER. 1520 Mission St., Santa Cruz, 425-5300. burgersantacruz.com. This hotpsot on the Westside offers California grass-fed beef and purchases produce locally. Plus, burger. packages food in 100 percent post-consumer recycled boxes and has 100 percent compostable cups, glasses and silverware. Check out weekly specials and try their amazing shakes. ENGFER PIZZA WORKS 537 Seabright Ave., Santa Cruz, 429-1856, engferpizzaworks.com. You have to love a place that offers built-to-suit toppings, where the traditional mushroom and sausage compete with more avant-garde arrangements like broccoli and pesto. Using a wood-fired oven, their pies are put together with homemade dough and sauce, vegan and gluten-free options and delicious topping combinations. KIANTI’S PIZZA & PASTA BAR / A SLICE OF KIANTI’S 1100 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz, 469-4400; 46 Front St., Santa Cruz, 469-4421;

Thai Dinner For 2 Under $25 • Grass-fed, grass finished beef from N-A Ranch in Santa Cruz • Pasture raised pigs from Devil’s Gulch Ranch in Nicasio • Pasture raised coastal lamb from Marin Sun Farms in the Bay Area Food Shed • Only locally sourced & local seasonal organic ingredients

HWY 1 exit Bay/Porter to Soquel Drive

• Custom sausage blend, custom cutting & cured meats

(831)) 462-5051 5050 Soquel Drive. Soquel, near Porter St. www.sawasdeesoquel.com 48 l food & wine

Open every day Lunch & Dinner Take Out Orders

kiantis.com. The staff dances, the food sizzles. Take a seat on their heated patio and enjoy an original breakfast pizza or the traditional Italian Pizza. For pasta, create your own—a Fettuccine Pasta, maybe, with a delicious variety of sauces and toppings. Spinning off of the success of its larger, full-service location, A Slice of Kianti’s is a quick fix for those looking for a quality slice of pizza in a jiffy down by the Boardwalk. PIZZA MY HEART 1116 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz, 426-2511; 209 The Esplanade, Capitola, 475-5714; 2180 41st Ave., Capitola, 475-6000, pizzamyheart.com. Pizza My Heart has mastered the art of creating the finest slices—and whole pizzas—around. With so many convenient locations you’ll hold them in a special place in your heart. Try: Davenport—Sausage, Spinach, Garlic, Mushroom and Onions ($27.95). SATURN CAFÉ 145 Laurel St., Santa Cruz,429-8505, saturncafe.com. This snazzy space-age diner is 100 percent vegetarian and boasts a ton of vegan options, too. But even carnivores agree that Saturn is good for everything from weekend brunch to late-night noshing. Fries, burgers, shakes ... oh my! Delicious local beers, to boot. Plus, the décor is out of this world.


BREAKFAST

LUNCH Lunch

Breakfast… served all day

$6.75 Our Burgers are the Greatest! 1/3 pound, char-broiled and served on a grilled homemade The Basic Tofu $7.50 sour roll, with mayo, lettuce, tomato and onion; choice of home-fries, fresh fruit or potato salad Creative Omelettes Starting at $8.25 $8.75 Pepper Bacon & Cheese Burger $10.50 Multi Grain Cereals $3.95 Gourmet Burger $10.75 French Toast $6.25 Patty Melt $9.25 1/2 order $3.95 Chili Burger $9.25 $8.75 Pancake Breakfast 1/2 stack pancakes, two Catalina Veggie Burger eggs any style, and bacon, sausage (link or Sandwiches patty), or ham $9.25 *turkey • *BLT • *ham • *avocado $8.75

The Basic Breakfast

Fruit Pancakes 1/2 stack $6.75, full stack $9.25 Sourdough Pancakes Sourdough Waffles

grill any of these & add cheese *grilled cheese

$0.75 $6.95

1/2 order (3) $4.50, full order (5) $6.25 Ahi Tuna Melt $4.95

$9.50

Chowders & Chilis Brunch Specialties

Cup $2.75, Bowl $4.25

Mike’s Mess Three eggs, mix it up with bacon,

mushrooms & our famous home-fries; top it off with Fresh Salads sour cream, tomatoes & green onions. Served with Imperial Chicken your choice of homemade breads, toasted. $10.95 “Junior Mike’s Mess” (smaller version) $8.95 Greek Salad (Sub. any omelette ingredient for bacon–$0.75)

Tofu Mess $10.95 “Junior Tofu Mess” (smaller version) $8.95

DINNER DAILY STARTING AT 5:00

101B Cooper Street 423.4545 www.lailirestaurant.com

2

$7.25

on an herb roll, topped with cream sauce & crumbled bacon; our home-fries on the side. Or try Traditional Creamed Eggs, served with the eggs boiled & sliced. $9.95

$

Artichoke Frittata

$8.95

Basic Burger

Corned Beef Hash & Eggs

$9.95

or

Chili & Eggs

$9.95

Spicy Italian Scramble

PATIO DINING

$6.95

Spinach Salad

Zach’s “Bennie” Three poached eggs served

LUNCH DAILY 11:30-3:00

$7.25

$10.50

Off

Basic Breakfast Tues–Fri Only (exp. 12/31/12) valid with coupon

Voted Best Breakfast in Santa Cruz for over 20 years! OPEN TUESDAY THROUGH SUNDAY • 7AM–2:30PM 819 PACIFIC AVE., SANTA CRUZ • 427-0646 * Thank you Santa Cruz for over 25 years of patronage! gtweekly.com l food & wine l 47


Listings ETHNIC LAILI RESTAURANT 101 B Cooper St., Santa Cruz, 423- 4545, lailirestaurant.com. Impressive and unique, this downtown haven offers both lunch and dinner, and a wonderful wine list. For lunch, consider some of Laili’s fantastic salads or wraps. For dinner, the dynamic appetizers list, coupled with a bounty of soups and salads, and flatbreads, one-of-a-kind pastas and a thrilling mix of traditionally cooked foods, are noteworthy. LOUIE’S CAJUN KITCHEN AND BOURBON BAR 110 Church St., Santa Cruz, 429-2000, louiescajunkitchen.com. Previously Clouds Downtown, Louie’s has a fun atmosphere and authentic “N’awlins” cuisine with just enough spice. Jambalaya, PoBoys, gumbo, BBQ and so much more are created with local ingredients. Gluten-free options make this the perfect portal to the bayou. Of course, check out their incredible list of bourbons.

EUROPEAN & MEDITERRANEAN CAFE IVETA 2125 Delaware Ave., Ste. F, Santa Cruz, CA, 423-5149, iveta.com. Cafe Iveta is a casual, European-style sidewalk cafe that

features freshly baked pastries, a full espresso bar, and gourmet soups, salads and sandwiches made from scratch using local ingredients. There is also an evening menu of appetizers, snacks and desserts worth perusing, as well as a tasty selection of premium local and imported beer and wines. With a lovely gathering space, you can also keep the cafe in mind for hosting group meetings, bridal showers, office parties and special events. CASABLANCA INN & BISTRO 101 Main Street Santa Cruz, 423-1570, casablanca-santacruz.com. The breathtaking beach and Boardwalk views are a plus in this historic Santa Cruz restaurant converted from a once-private mansion. With its new look and feel—The Bistro Bar’s lunch menu offers a great Turkey Cranberry sandwich, by the way—the overall menu continues to win us over with its diversity and stylish presentations. Try the Organic Roasted Chicken ($20) and incredible list of tapas. LE CIGARE VOLANT 328 Ingalls St., Santa Cruz, 425-6771, lecigarevolant.com. This distinctly vibrant culinary hotspot on Santa Cruz’s Westside has plenty to choose from, including a delicious culinary endeavor with local, organic and

sustainably produced ingredients, plus the perfect wines to pair with your meal. Our pick this season: line-caught local rock cod ($22). GABRIELLA CAFÉ 910 Cedar St., Santa Cruz, 457-1677, gabriellacafe.com. Combine the fairy lights draped delicately against the stuccoed walls of the entryway, the tiny tables adorned with carafes of lemonkissed water, the incredibly seductive menu, and voila! Gabriella is the quintessential Santa Cruz date restaurant. Their commitment to local and organic ingredients is phenomenal—you can see an in-depth list of providers on their website. HOFFMAN’S BAKERY & CAFÉ 1102 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz, 420-0135, hoffmanssantacruz.com. This family-operated café on the mall in Downtown Santa Cruz had a recent makeover courtesy of Restaurant Impossible. Great variety, from tomato-tofu sauté with eggs to meatloaf sandwiches. European-style baked goods are a hit and terrific desserts round out their amazing menu. Eat this: Duck Confit Pasta ($18). TYROLEAN INN 9600 Hwy. 9, Ben Lomond, 336-5188, tyroleaninn.com. The only German restaurant and beer garden in the county … and it packs a punch!

Enjoy their classic Bavarian and continental cuisine and of course, their magnificent variety of beer. VASILI’S GREEK RESTAURANT 1501 Mission St., Santa Cruz, 4589808, vasilisgreekrestaurant.com. Quaint but fully loaded. Greek wine and beer specialties. Try: lamb kebab souvlaki plate ($19.95). ZAMEEN MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE 7528 Soquel Drive, Aptos, 688-4465, zameencuisine.com. Try Zameen’s falafel, kebabs (including vegetarian) and spicy lamb dishes. Entrees come in three sizes and the price is right. Beer and wine are served as well as delicious lemonade made in-house. Eat this: Mediterranean Meatballs ($12.50).

HAWAIIAN ALOHA ISLAND GRILLE 1700 Portola Drive, Santa Cruz, 479-3299, alohaislandgrille.com. Just one block from the beach and 3,000 miles away from Hawaii, right here in Santa Cruz is Aloha Island Grille, known for its large portions, incredible prices and ono (good) food. Try the Kahlua pig with cabbage ($7.50) or ahi wasabi fish special ($6.50).

HAPPY HOUR EVERYDAY 3-6PM TUESDAYS – ALL LUNCH ENTREES ONLY $7.50! WEDNESDAYS – $3 HAPPY HOUR ALL DAY! $3 DRINKS All Draft Beer House Wine All Well Drinks Sake

$3 APPS Cantonese Chicken Wings Cream Cheese Won Tons Wasabe Yam Sticks Edamame and many More

Free Wifi Full Bar Outdoor Patio Signature Cocktails

475-8751 | 900 41st Ave. | Santa Cruz Sun–Thur: 11:30am–9:30pm Fri & Sat: 11:30am–11:00pm

www.cantonsantacruz.com

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Listings HULA’S BAR & GRILL AND TIKI LOUNGE 221 Cathcart St., Santa Cruz, 426-4852, hulastiki.com. Choose from tasty options like Duke’s Luau Pork Plate, Island Style Cioppino, sweet potato fries and much more. Their comfortable Hawaiian atmosphere is the perfect place for a date or a get together. Eat this: Ahi Wasabi Fish Special with cream sauce and blackened fish ($19).

LA POSTA 538 Seabright Ave., Santa Cruz, 457-2782, lapostarestaurant.com. Seabright’s favorite, local hot spot continues to win raves for its unique offerings and original creations. A diverse wine bar and commitment to detail stand out, but take note of its nightly specials. Chef Katherine Stern finds the perfect blend of flavors by using organic and local fruits and veggies.

PONO HAWAIIAN GRILL 120 Union St., Santa Cruz, 426-Pono, ponohawaiiangrill.com. Nestled inside The Reef Bar, this distinctly unique haven is capturing the attention of locals. Try everything from its Cone Sushi appetizers and Poke Salad to its seasonal fish and combination plates. Enjoy their huge outdoor patio and extensive menu.

OAKTREE RISTORANTE 5447 Hwy. 9, Felton, 335-5551, oaktreeristorante.com. Enjoy the gorgeous surrounding redwoods and gardens plus outstanding Italian cuisine. Their use of fresh, local ingredients such as Dirty Girl Produce and anti-biotic free meat comes out in their dishes. Coupled with an impressive wine list— including local favorites Martella Winery, Cinnabar Winery, Bonny Doon Winery—the fare makes for an unforgettable experience. (P.S. Monday is often Spaghetti Night.)

ITALIAN CAFÉ MARE 740 Front St., Santa Cruz, 458-1212, cafemare.com. A Downtown Santa Cruz treasure and a hotbed of unique yet authentic Italian cuisine. The recipes here incorporate an assortment of local organic ingredients. Great wine list including both Italian and California wines.

RISTORANTE AVANTI 1711 Mission St., Santa Cruz, 427-0135, ristoranteavanti.com. Bold, delicious and memorable, one of the area’s most favored Italian restaurants now boasts more space. Avanti always wins high marks for its incredible Italian cuisine and the remarkable

way it’s able to create a winning meal, and the service stands out, too. Check out the lunch specials. Try: Pappardelle and baked Devil’s Gulch meatballs ($15).

fare—and the entrees are abundant. Great list of appetizers and a nice selection of beverages tequilas and margaritas. Take note of the Tostada De Ceviche ($13).

RISTORANTE ITALIANO 555 Soquel Ave., Ste. 150, Santa Cruz, 458-2321, ristoranteitaliano.biz. Voted Best Italian Restaurant for many years, this Italian venue offers authentic cuisine, full bar, brunch, lunch, dinner, catering and take-out. Enjoy eating under the oaks on their beautiful outdoor patio. Try: Canneloni Verde ($15.99).

EL PALOMAR 1336 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz, 425-7575, elpalomarcilantros.com. Try the taco bar for a quick bite, or dine in style in the historic El Palomar hotel dining room. It continues to win Best Mexican Restaurant in GT’s Readers Poll. Family recipes handed down have been perfected. With awesome specials on food and drinks you can’t go wrong. Eat this: Burrito De Camerones ($15).

ZOCCOLI’S 1534 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz, 423-1711, zoccolis.com. Owned and operated by the Zoccoli family since 1948, you will often see a line out the door during lunch hour at this popular eatery. The large selection of cheese, sausage, pasta, soup, salad, beer, wine and chocolate-y desserts aim to please even the pickiest taste bud. Try: The French Dip or create your own sandwich.

MEXICAN CILANTRO’S MEXICAN RESTAURANT 1934 Main St., Watsonville, 761-2161, elpalomarcilantros.com. A festive atmosphere accompanies some terrific Mexican

MARGARITAVILLE 231 Esplanade no.101, Capitola, 476-2263, margaritavillecapitola.com. Located in gorgeous Captiola Village, Margaritaville’s got it all: delicious food, fabulous atmosphere, live music and great drinks. Try this: Sizzling Hot Fajitas ($17.95-$22.95). TAQUERIA VALLARTA 1101 Pacific Ave. Santa Cruz, 471-2655, taqueriavallartarestaurant.com. Huge selection of Mexican meats for burritos, tacos, enchiladas and everything, as well as a large selection for vegetarians. Check out the website for a full list of locations, and, in case you need a late-night burrito fix, take note that the Downtown Santa Cruz spot is open until midnight.

The Central Coast’s premier source for culinary supplies & decorative accessories.

1527 Pacific Ave. Downtown Santa Cruz 426-1351 www.chefworks-santacruz.com Monday-Thursday 10-6, Friday & Saturday 10-9, Sunday 11-6 50 l food & wine


Listings TORTILLA FLATS 4616 Soquel Drive, Soquel, 476-1754, tortillaflatsdining.com. From its Original Margarita—you’ll taste the fresh limejuice—to its impressive house specials (and special events), this is Mexican dining at its best. A delicious Spanish Tapas menu adds to the fun on Mondays and Tuesdays. Try this: Chicken Mole ($14.50).

PUBS THE PARISH PUBLICK HOUSE 841 Almar Ave., Santa Cruz, 4210507, theparishpublickhouse.com. What’s not to like about The Parish? With the charming décor, huge selection of local and imported brews, and creative yet traditional bar food, the Parish is the place to be. Our fave: Belgian Pale Ale ($6-$8).

TEA & COFFEE HIDDEN PEAK TEAHOUSE 1541C Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz, 423-4200, hiddenpeakteahouse.com. Beautiful and Zen, you’ll enjoy a spacious indoor tearoom as well as an outdoor patio. Ditch your laptop and immerse yourself in tea culture. THE UGLY MUG 4640 Soquel Drive, Soquel, 477-1341, cafeugly.com. This local favorite has it all, with an incredible list of fresh brewed coffees and specialty drinks like no other (take, for instance, the Mighty Pint—a pint of Guinness with a shot of espresso). VERVE COFFEE ROASTERS 816 41st Ave., Santa Cruz 475-7776; 104 Bronson St., Santa Cruz, 464-8141; 1540 Pacific Ave., Santa Cruz, 6007784, vervecoffeeroasters.com. Now

in three chic locations. Verve’s unique take on coffee and its culture have impressed connoisseurs. Their baristas are some of the most knowledgeable and best trained.

SEAFOOD FIREFISH GRILL 25 Municipal Wharf, Santa Cruz, firefishgrill.net. Firefish Grill is a delicious and memorable experience. It specializes in fresh, traditional seafood, steaks and homemade pasta dishes served California-cuisine style at reasonable prices. Best of all: you’ll experience fabulous ocean views from every seat in the house.

appetizer you will treasure. But take note of the wildly entertaining specialty drinks—from the mango mojito to the mandarin cosmo, a fine offering of fresh local ingredients, and the special gluten-free menu. STAGNARO BROS. SEAFOOD 59 Municipal Wharf, Santa Cruz, 4232180, stagnarobros.com. At the outer end of the Santa Cruz Wharf, with a panoramic view of the Monterey Bay and the Boardwalk, they have the largest selection of fresh seafood, steaks and pasta dishes, as well as notable appetizers, cocktails and sandwiches. “Caught today, cooked today.” Our pick: Cioppino ($23.95).

JOHNNY’S HARBORSIDE 493 Lake Ave., Santa Cruz, 479-3430, johnnysharborside.com. The drunken clams steamed in beer and garlic is an

Spode Woodland collection

Woodland Turkey Each piece of Spode’s Woodland collection is adorned with a handsome plump turkey and bordered by the unmistakable Woodland border of brown stylized flowers. Mix and match with other Woodland collections to create a unique collection.Woodland imperial ware is dishwasher and microwave safe.

Smith’s China

Open Mon–Sat 10–5:30

426-3111

1111 Water Street, Santa Cruz

www.smithschina.com

Eat Real |

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Editor’s Note: When I was growing up, colder weather and falling leaves meant a house filled with family and an endless supply of fall foods, like the entries in our annual Halloween chili cook-off, my mom’s sweet cornbread (dotted with whole kernels of corn), and a plethora of fresh, seasonal pies. But two family recipes defined the fall season more than the rest: my mom’s simple, soul-warming apple cider (which would fill the house with the smell of cinnamon and cloves), and my grandmother’s signature pumpkin bars, topped with a generous layer of rich cream cheese frosting. I leave you with these two recipes, as well as one from Café Delmarette co-owner Jennifer Toner, and a wish that you take full advantage of the season’s harvest. Enjoy!

Nola’s Pumpkin Bars

Easy Apple Cider

Sift or mix: 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking power 2 teaspoons cinnamon 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon salt Combine: 4 eggs, beaten 1 sixteen-ounce can pumpkin (2 cups) 1 1/2 cups sugar 1 cup vegetable oil

1 gallon unfiltered organic apple cider 1 whole orange studded with 20 to 30 cloves 1 orange, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch thick slices 4 to 6 cinnamon sticks Extra cinnamon sticks to place in each serving cup (optional)

Stir dry ingredients into pumpkin mixture. Blend until smooth. Spread in greased and floured 15-inch by 1-inch pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 25 minutes or until firm.

Place a cinnamon stick in each of several mugs, and fill with hot cider. Makes 16 cups. Leftover cider can be stored in the refrigerator and reheated as needed.

Pour cider into large saucepan. Add studded orange, orange slices and cinnamon sticks. Simmer on medium low heat until piping hot. May also be made in a crock pot and kept warm for several hours.

Frosting: 1 eight-ounce package cream cheese, softened 1 cube (1/2 cup) butter, softened 4 cups powdered sugar 2 teaspoons vanilla Cream butter and cream cheese together until well blended and fluffy. Gradually add powdered sugar, beating after each addition. Stir in vanilla. Spread over top of cooled pumpkin bars, cut into squares and serve.

Jennifer Toner’s Cilantro Pesto Recipe (As found on Café Delmarette’s Roncado sandwich) Yield: about a cup 2 bunches cilantro with the bottom inch or two of the stems cut off, well-washed and dried Scant 1/3 cup nuts: Brazil nuts, almonds and walnuts will all work. You can throw in some pumpkin seeds, too, if you like. A couple of pinches of salt, to taste Juice of one or two lemons—around 3 tbsp

52 l food & wine

About 1/4 cup or more of olive oil, until desired consistency is reached Pulse cilantro, nuts, salt and lemon juice in a food processor until pulverized. Scrape down sides of the bowl. Turn power on and add in oil through the feed tube until the pesto lightens a bit and looks creamy. Stop and taste for salt, lemon and texture. Adjust as needed.


SURF... SUNSET... SEAFOOD...

Best Restaurant in Soquel Best California Cuisine

Best Restaurant of the Year

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Hula’s Island Grill

Dinner Lunch Cocktails #

# DINNER MENU # PUPUS Vietmanese Spring Rolls – $7 Pork Stuffed Potstickers – $7 Abalone Style Calamari – $7 Crispy Coconut Shrimp Rolls – $7 Grade A Sashimi – $9 Island Style Poke – $10 Basket of Sweet Potato Fries – $6 1/2 Basket – $4 Seared Ahi Wontons – $10 Spicy Edamame – $4 Tiki Torch Chicken Wings – $8 Hawaiian Ceviche – $9 Spicy Thai Fish Cakes – $7 Samurai Beef Sticks – $8 Surfrider Chicken Sticks – $8 Spicy Seaweed Salad – $4 Mac-N-Cheese – $6 Jala-Bac-Mac – $7 Hawaiian Lobster Bisque – $4/6

#

BURGERS and SANDWICHES

All served with choice of sweet potato fries, hand cut fries, slaw, mixed green salad or Caesar Add Bacon, Avocado or Shitakes $2 The Hula Burger – $10 Cajun Burger – $11 Kimo’s Broke Da Mouth Burger – $14 Blackened Ahi Tuna Burger – $13 Big Sur Veggie Burger – $11 Polynesian Chicken Sandwich – $13 Trader Vic’s Fish Sandwich – $13 Luau Pork Sandwich – $12 Calamari Sandwich – $12

HULA BOWLS With rice, black beans, and cabbage Ahi Wasabi – $16 Mongolian Beef – $14 Jungle Tofu – $13 Spicy Thai Chicken – $14

FRESH FISH

TACOS & SALADS

AHi – $17 Ono – $16 Mahi Mahi – $15 Hapu – $14 Tofu – $13 Preparation Options: Hula’s Pan Fried Blackened Lemongrass Encrusted Macadamia Encrusted – Add $2 Coconut Encrusted Jawaiian Jerk – Add $2 Wasabi Fish Special – Add $2

HULAS FAVORITES Duke’s Luau Pork Plate – $14 Bali Hai BBQ Ribs – $13/$20 Hawaiian Fish Soup – $16 Cocojoe's Chicken Plate – $15 Jawaiian Jerk Pork Plate – $15 Jawaiian Jerk Chicken Plate – $15 Scallops Hana Bay – $18 Teriyaki New York Steak – $19 Big Kahuna Steak – $23

South Seas Fish Tacos – $14 Shrimp Tacos – $15 Cubano Pork Tacos – $14 Spicy Tofu Tacos – $13 Ahi Katsu Tacos – $17 Mango Chicken Chop Caesar – $14 Cajun Ahi Chop Caesar – $16 Habenero Lime Chicken Tacos – $15

# LUNCH MENU #

Our lunch menu is basically the same fare as our dinner menu with some slight variations. Come sample for yourself

Lunch served Friday, Saturday and Sunday only from 11:30 on.

Voted Best Exotic Drinks Cocktails, Appetizers, & Happy Hour in Santa Cruz

THE BE HAPPY ST IN SAN HOUR TA CRU Z!

7n d Hap ights a wee py Ho ur: Fri k 4:30 – 6p , Sat, m Sun: 11:30 – 6pm

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831.426.HULA

221 Cathcart Street • Downtown Santa Cruz • www.hulastiki.com gtweekly.com l food & wine l 55


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