Globerovers Magazine, July 2014

ADVENTURE REPORT

Polar bear spotting at the Svalbard Islands

Gateway to the North Pole

Article: Central Asia Adventures

Feature

Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and Afghanistan

RUSSIA

The “Golden Ring” of Domes

YEMEN

Where Time Stands Still

GREENLAND

The Inuit Settlement at Kulusuk

MALDIVE ISLANDS

Paradise at the Remote Baa Atoll

ARGENTINA

Ushuaia - Most Southern Town in the World

Old Luxembourg City

Paris at Night

10 Ruins of the Middle East

9 Off-the-beaten-tracks

Village Life in South Africa

Tasty Travellers Treats

Sensible Travel Gear

Travellers in the Spotlight

2014 Globerovers Blog Awards

Globerovers

Feature Article

6 Central Asia Adventures

The break-up of the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (U.S.S.R.) in 1991 established independence to several Central Asian countries. Civil wars raged through much of Central Asia in the 1990’s, but peace and limited prosperity have returned. While the region remains grossly under-rated as a travel destination, the travellers who venture here are overwhelmed by the hospitality of the people and the beauty of the land.

Globerovers Magazine explored: 6 Kyrgyzstan, 22 Kazakhstan, 28 Uzbekistan, 40 Tajikistan, and 56 Afghanistan.

ARTICLES

Russia’s Golden Ring

e Golden Ring is a collection of towns known for their spectacular golden onion-domed churches, cathedrals and monasteries, which looks best under the white cover of the winter snow.

Yemen, where time stands still

Seems like time stands still in Yemen where ancient castles, fortresses and other signs of early civilisation are all testament to the rich but tumultuous history of this part of the world.

Greenland Inuit settlement: Kulusuk

Greenland is a massive island and the few settlements are remotely tucked away on some of the islands, which are surrounded by dri ing icebergs along the periphery of the main island.

Remote Baa Atoll of the Maldives

Ever dreamt about the most beautiful remote islands with palm trees, pure white sand, and crystal clear water?

Welcome to the Maldive Islands.

World’s most southern town: Ushuaia

Located at the very scenic southern tip of South America, the Argentinian town of Ushuaia is known as the “southernmost town in the world”.

PHOTO ESSAYS

Old city of Luxembourg

Fabulous Paris at night

SPECIAL FEATURES

Central Asia Portraits

9 Off-the-beaten Paths: Central Asia

Sensible Travel Gear

Village Life: Darnall, South Africa

10 Ruins of the Middle East

Tasty Travellers Treats

6 Brilliant Travel Blogs

Travellers in the Spotlight

ADVENTURE REPORT

Polar Bear Spotting in Svalbard

Globerovers travelled to the top of the world to photo-hunt the elusive polar bears by dogsled. During winter, the islands are awash in white snow which o ers superb camou age to the bears.

notably more Spanish than African!

Kalon Mosque & Minaret Bukhara, Uzbekistan

ON THE COVER: Jailoo near Jeti-Ögüz, Kyrgyzstan

Globerovers Magazine

currently is a bi-annual magazine, available in digital and printed formats. We focus on bringing, to the intrepid traveller, exciting destinations and inspiring photography from around the globe.

Published in Hong Kong

Printed in U.S.A

WHO WE ARE:

Editor-in-Chief - Peter Steyn

Editorial Consultant - Tsui Chi Ho

Graphic Designer - Peter Steyn

Photographer & Writer - Peter Steyn

Text Editors - Geo Brownie, John Collins, erese O’Brien, Libby Troy, Janet-Lynn Vorster.

FOLLOW US: www.globerovers-magazine.com

www.globerovers.com

facebook.com/globerovers

twitter.com/globerovers pinterest.com/globerovers

CONTACT US: contact@globerovers.com

Editor‛s Message

“Not all those who wander are lost.” J.R.R. Tolkien John Tolkien (3 Jan 1892 – 2 Sep 1973) was an English writer, poet, philologist, university professor, and author of ‘The Hobbit’, and ‘Lord of the Rings’.

Dear Readers,

In this third issue of Globerovers Magazine, we are pleased to bring you a variety of exciting destinations and other reading enjoyment.

Our feature destination is one of the least travelled, yet the most amazing region of Central Asia. From Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and to the incredible Afghanistan, the region has much to o er to the intrepid traveller.

e other destinations in this issue include Russia, Yemen, Greenland, Maldives, and Argentina, as well as Photo Essays of Luxembourg and Paris, France. We conclude this issue with an exhilarating Adventure Report of the Svalbard Islands, close to the North Pole. Come along as we go polar bear spotting on a husky dogsled.

Special thanks to our text editors and other contributors who invested their time and expertise to make this magazine a pleasant experience.

e next edition will include Pakistan, Syria, Ukraine, Papua New Guinea, the Canary Islands, and more.

Please visit our websites at www.globerovers.com, www.globerovers-magazine.com, and our Pinterest and Facebook pages. Share your feedback at editor@globerovers.com. See QR codes on p. 135.

Always take the long way home!

Peter Steyn

Editor-in-Chief and Publisher

ASIA

HIGHLIGHTS of KYRGYZSTAN

Tash-Rabat Caravanserai

Visit the well-preserved 15th century stone caravanserai at an altitude of 3,200 m (10,500 ft) located in a stunning arena of mountains and green pastures.

Song-kul Lake

Spend a few nights in a yurt on a jailoo alongside a crystal clear lake surrounded by snow-capped mountains. Do hiking and horseback riding during the day.

Yssyk-kul Lake

Located at an altitude of 1,607 m (5,272 ft) in the northern Tian Shan Mountains of eastern Kyrgyzstan, Yssyk-kul, with its crystal clear waters, is the tenth largest lake in the world by volume.

Hiking in the Karakol Mountains

Spend a few days hiking through forested mountain ranges and steep passes, along snow-capped ridges to the incredible Ala-Kul glacial lake at 3,500 m (11,500 ft) above sea level, and then relax at the hot springs in the Altyn-Arashan valley.

Jeti-Ögüz

Stare at the incredible red sandstone rock formations known as the “Seven Bulls of Jeti-Ögüz” as well as the nearby “Broken-heart” rocks, both of which have interesting folklore explaining their existence.

Alslanbob

This small mountain village, surrounded by the world’s second largest walnut grove, is known for the great hospitality of the Uzbek and Kyrgyz people.

Kyrgyzstan is one of the world’s best kept secrets and a grossly underrated travel destination!

It is a pleasant and safe country with, arguably, the most hospitable people in the world. Its a great destination for nature lovers as it offers snow-capped mountains, raging rivers, glacial lakes, green jailoos with yurts and horses, and of course quaint villages with cozy guesthouses that serve tasty local cuisine - all available at very reasonable prices.

CENTRAL ASIA ADVENTURES

Kyrgyzstan

jailoos, yurts, horses, mountains, lakes

From Kashgar city in China’s western Xinjiang province it is a long but scenic road to the China—Kyrgyzstan border at the Torugart Pass at 3,752 m (12,310 ) in the Tian Shan mountain range.

A large part of the road snakes through a valley rimmed by impressive mountains on both sides and with a torrent of water cascading through a shallow gorge.

While China border crossings are typically tough, this one is particularly so. First of all, tourists need to arrange government sanctioned private transport from Kashgar (Xinjiang province), which costs half a fortune compared with public transport for the locals. e service includes the mandatory driver and guide to handle the permits and the border crossing formalities.

A er several checkpoints, including a drive through a “no man’s land” of several kilometres, you will eventually arrive at the point where your Chinese guide and vehicle will o cially hand you over (along with your border crossing documents) to your Kyrgyz driver. No private cars are allowed to cross the border so you have to walk from the Chinese vehicle to the Kyrgyz vehicle.

has an interesting past. Some historians claim that Tash Rabat originally served as a Nestorian or Buddhist monastery in the tenth century. In the times of the Great Silk Road, Tash Rabat served as a caravanserai for travelling merchants and their camels. It has also been used for centuries as shelter to refugees and hermits and as a tranquil place for studying religion. While it has a big domed central hall surrounded by several smaller domes with underground transitions and various secret exits and prison cells, it lacks a large courtyard which is so typical of caravanserais in Central Asia. Ask the caretaker at the nearby yurt camp to open the steel gates so you can venture inside. Bring your ashlight along. It sure is an interesting interior.

Stay a night or two in one of the nearby yurts and rent a horse to ride to Lake Chatyr-Kul directly to the south. e lake and a 2 km (1.24 mi) bu er zone is part of the KaratalJapyryk State Nature Reserve established in 1994 with the purpose of conserving the fauna and ora of the Central Tien-Shan mountain region. From October to the end of April the lake surface freezes with the ice becoming up to 1.5 m (5 ) thick.

Town of Narin

Further north on the main road from the border the cozy town of Naryn makes a good stopover for a night or two. A homestay with a local family should be pre-arranged online via the CBT home stay network which

extends over much of Kyrgyzstan.

Homestays are the best choice in this part of the world. Families within this network know the importance of hosting the few tourists who make it out here and you will most likely be treated to a nicely decorated bedroom, sumptuous meals, and the warm hospitality for which the Kyrgyz people are known. As you lie in bed thinking of your rst few hours in Kyrgyzstan, you will realise how much better is it here than back in China!

Once you are in Kyrgyzstan, it will be smooth sailing to a small rusty gate which the Kyrgyz border o cial will open with a friendly “Welcome to Kyrgyzstan” smile. Drop in at the nearby lonely building to get your passport stamped by the Kyrgyz immigration o cial, who most likely will ask you to take a picture of him behind his desk as he rarely sees any tourists coming through his gate. Stamped passport in hand, hit the road to explore this lovely land of the Kyrgyz people.

Tash Rabat

En route to the rst sizeable town of Naryn where you can stay over for the rst night, take a short detour north of the main road to visit Tash Rabat, a well-preserved 15th century stone caravanserai at an altitude of 3,200 m (10,500 ).

e location is stunning and the caravanserai

The Kyrgyz border offcial will open the gate with a friendly “Welcome to Kyrgyzstan” smile.

Above: Tash Rabat, a well-preserved 15th century stone caravanserai at an altitude of 3,200 m (10,500 ft).

Left: Behind the gate, which marks the border of Kyrgyzstan with China, is the friendly Kyrgyz immigration offcer

Below: The small town of Naryn is located on both banks of the Naryn River in a picturesque gorge.

Song-Kul Lake

You came to Kyrgyzstan for many reasons. One of which, undoubtedly, is to spend a night in a yurt on a jailoo alongside a crystal clear lake surrounded by snow-capped mountains.

Jailoos are the pastures where many Kyrgyz families spend their summers while grazing their livestock and living much as their nomadic forefathers did many years ago.

Get into your arranged car with a driver, and head north of Naryn to Song-Kul Lake. Song-Kul Lake is an alpine lake at 3,015 m (9,900 ) in northern Naryn province.

e lake’s maximum length is 29 km (18 mi), its breadth about 18 km (11 mi), and extreme depth is 13 m (43 ). Being at this altitude means the water is crispy cold — solid frozen in winter and crispy cool in summer. Take this into account, as you may need to come for a daily dip as there are no washing facilities where you will be staying.

Your yurt, arranged through the CBT home stay network, will be waiting for you. A yurt is a seasonal portable dwelling structure with a wooden circular frame carrying a felt cover, which has traditionally been used by nomads in the steppes of Central Asia.

Spend a few nights here while enjoying the traditional food prepared by the local yurt

family, do some horseback riding, swim in the lake, go hiking in the nearby mountains, and just enjoy life on a jailoo like a typical Kyrgyz.

At this high altitude even summer nights are cool. In spring and fall it gets really crispy cool here while in winter, it’s a wonderland of snow with the lake surface frozen at more than 1 m (3 ) thick. e frozen surface will be melt away only by late May.

e lake is quite remote so the nights will be very dark, which will reveal the most incredible night skies you have ever seen. Bring along your tripod and large battery pod to photograph the streaking star trails.

Yurts are set up on the jailoos (summer pastures) in early spring and taken down in late autumn. Families always keep a spare yurt for lonely travellers.

Issyk-Kul Lake

If you nd the waters of Song-Kul Lake too cold to your taste, then head out in a western direction via the small town of Kochkor to the shores of Issyk-Kul Lake.

is alpine lake is located at an altitude of 1,607 m (5,272 ) near the northern Tian Shan Mountains of eastern Kyrgyzstan. Issyk-Kul is an endorheic basin lake (a closed drainage basin that retains water and allows no out ow to other external bodies), and is the tenth largest lake in the world by volume.

In fact, it is the second largest mountain lake in the world a er Lake Titicaca in the Andes Mountains on the border of Peru and Bolivia. It is also the second largest saline lake by volume, a er the Caspian Sea.

e lake has a length of 182 km (113 mi), a width of up to 60 km (37 mi), and it reaches a depth of 668 m (2,192 ).

Standing on the south shore of the lake you won’t be able to see the north shore!

In 2007, archaeologists discovered some remains of a 2,500 year-old settlement at the bottom of the lake. Signs of earlier settlements have also been discovered in shallow waters, which led archaeologists to believe that in medieval times the lake’s surface was about 9 m (30 ) lower.

Stay at one of the many small villages on either the south or north shores. A highly recommended area is where the yurts are set up in the summer near the small south shore village of Bökönbaev. Perched right along the shores of the lake, the yurts are well removed from any noise in town.

Relax in the cool waters and do some hiking in the nearby hills. In autumn the area along the shore is bathed in the glowing orange colours of the dwarf shrub ephedra equisetina when covered with berries.

e larger shrubs called hippophae rhamnoides (common sea-buckthorn) add a further yellow-orange glow to the scenery. Lots of cherry-plum trees also ourish along the shores.

The water is crystal clear and signifcantly warmer than Song-Kul Lake.

Ephedra equisetina with berries.

Common sea-buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides).

Issyk-Kul is an endorheic lake and is the second largest alpine lake, and by volume the second largest saline lake in the world. Stay in a yurt and swim in pristine turquoise waters. Due to the high salt content, it does not freeze in winter, so keep swimming.

Ephedra equisetina with berries.

A multi-day hike starts and ends in the town of Karakol. The strenuous trek goes up to Ala-Kul lake and glacier, and soothing hot springs in the Altyn-Arashan valley.

Ala-Kul Trekking

Now that you have done the jailoos, yurts, horses, and big lakes, another highlight of Kyrgyzstan is awaiting on the south eastern edge of Lake Issyk-Kul.

From Bökönbaev take the minibus to the town of Karakol where you can arrange all the necessities such as tents, hiking gear, gas stoves and a highly recommended guide.

Head south on a four to six day mountain hiking trip which will take you through forested mountain ranges, snow-capped peaks and steep passes. Bathe in the hot springs of the Altyn-Arashan valley and hike up to the incredible Ala-Kul glacial lake located high in the Teskey Ala-Too Range of the Tian Shan mountains at an altitude of 3,500 m (11,483 ) above sea level.

e alpine meadows are beautiful with the profusion of owers and lush grass. Look out for a few waterfalls and don’t miss the Golden Eagles among several bird species that live in the area.

While the trekking paths are generally in good condition, don’t attempt to do the trekking without a knowledgeable local guide. Over the rocks and gravel the path easily disappears and you may get lost!

On a ve day trip you will need to hike about ve to seven hours a day with a daily altitude gain of about 600 meters. Don’t exceed this daily gain as you may get hypobaropathy!

While trekkers worth their stripes should carry their own belongings, it would be a great relief for yourself to hire a local porter. Go ahead and treat yourself by hiring your

own porter and in the process ploughing much needed money into the local economy.

Upon completion of this strenuous trekking, relax for a day or two at one of the basic hot springs in the Altyn-Arashan valley, before heading back to Karakol town where you will appreciate the comforts of a nice so bed, warm meals, and a hot shower.

Hiking high above Ala-Kul Lake and its glacier in the Terskey Ala-Too mountain range.

Hikers walk backwards down the steep slopes to prevent their feet from slipping on the loose gravel.

Hikers taking a rest before the very steep descent to the hot springs in the Altyn-Arashan valley.

Hiking above Ala-Kul Lake.

Jeti-Ögüz & more jailoos

Just 25 km from Karakol in a southwestern direction is a lush valley with some striking red sandstone rock formations known as the “seven bulls of Jeti-Ögüz.”

is unique geological formation of sheer cli s is composed of tertiary (66 million to 2.6 million years ago) red conglomerates - a rock consisting of individual fragments within a ne-grained matrix that have become cemented together. e rock formations here resemble seven bulls and are underscored by a legend about how the rocks were formed.

And so the legend goes… “A Kyrgyz Khan stole the wife of another Khan, who then sought advice from a ‘wise man’ about how he could take his revenge. e wise man advised the Khan that he should kill his wife and give the body to his rival - ‘Let him own a dead wife, not a living one.’ e Khan then arranged a feast where he sat next to his stolen wife. As nine bulls were being slaughtered as part of a ritual, he took out his knife and stabbed her in the chest. From her heart gushed blood which carried away the bulls down the valley where they came to a rest and became the cli s…”

Nearby across the road is another interesting rock formation which resembles a “broken heart.” Legend has it that it resembles the heart of a beautiful woman who died of a broken heart a er two suitors killed each other ghting over her love.

Further up the valley along the Jeti-Ögüz river are a few jailoos with yurts and horses in the summer. Keep walking until you nd your dream location and then just drop in at a cluster of yurts and ask if one is available for the night. Stay for a night or more, go horseback riding or just hiking around the beautiful mountains.

Karakol Town

In Karakol town don’t miss the wooden Russian Orthodox Holy Trinity Cathedral which was completed in 1895. is beautiful wooden church was built without a single nail and has a magni cent facade and an ornate and gaudy altar inside. If visiting in late August, try one of the fruits of the old apple trees in the church grounds. Karakol also boasts a Sunday livestock market which is a good place to see remnants of the traditional nomadic rural life of Kyrgyzstan.

Russian Orthodox Holy Trinity Cathedral

The red sandstone rock formations known as the “seven bulls of Jeti-Ögüz.”

The surrounding jailoos and mountains are known for their natural beauty.

Arslanbob is partly surrounded by the world’s second largest walnut grove.

Arslanbob Village

Reached via the lovely and peaceful capital city of Bishkek to the north, or the town of Osh to the south, the mountain village of Arslanbob is situated in the shadows of the snow-capped Chatkal mountains.

Arslanbob is partly surrounded by the world’s second largest walnut grove so come in late September or early October and you will be showered in walnutsfresh o the trees.

Located in the Jalal-Abad province close to the current border with Uzbekistan, the 1,600 residents are largely Uzbeks as many ed riots in Uzbekistan over the years at times when borders were more porous and less regulated.

e few visitors to the village have a wide selection of about een home stays which can all be booked online via the CBT home stay network website. Stay at least a week and enjoy the local cuisine, friendly people, great mountain hiking, waterfalls, peaceful walnut forests, and an abundance of wild growing fruits in season.

In the centre of the village, don’t miss the 16th century mazar (shrine or tomb) to Arslanbob-Ata, the founder of the village. Note that the su x “bob” is a traditional practice used in this part of the world which denotes “traveller and explorer.” So obviously Mr. Arslan was a well respected traveller or explorer.

While spring and fall are arguably the best times to visit this area, the local CBT tourist o ce is all geared up to take winter visitors on horse-drawn sleigh rides, downhill and cross country skiing, snow camping and horseback rides during the snowy months of December to February. While still in its infancy stage, Arslanbob has the potential to become an idyllic winter destination. GR

Wild fruit, such as cherry-plums, grow in abundance around the village.

September is time to harvest the walnuts.

If you like lamb and mutton, this is the place to be!

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION - Kyrgyzstan

Getting There

The most common route entering Kyrgyzstan is by land from China’s Xingjiang province, either via the expensive Torugart Pass or further south via the cheaper Irkeshtam border. Another alternative is to fy into the capital city, Bishkek, and from there make a circle around the country.

When to Go

Kyrgyzstan is an all-year destination. While winters are very cold and snow makes driving hazardous, it is a beautiful time of the year to enjoy the frozen lakes, skiing and hot springs. Summers are extremely hot, while spring and autumn are great to do more extensive travelling by road, as well as hiking and enjoying the warm days and nights under the starry skies.

Getting Around

Public transportation can be cumbersome, but with a lot of patience it will be an exciting and very rewarding experience. Large buses are rare, so along the busiest routes it is common to take minibuses, called marshrutka. Everywhere, including the less busy routes, is served by shared taxis.

Where to Stay

Kyrgyzstan has a Community-Based Tourism (CBT) home stay network extending throughout the country. Prices of accommodation, meals, and transport are standardised and so is the quality of the services. Accommodation is generally inside the homes of local families, although some are in separate buildings or in apartments dedicated to tourists. It is not expensive and is an excellent way to experience the lives of the local people.

Cost of Travel

For the international traveller it is one of the cheapest countries in the world, especially when taking into account the relatively high quality of products and services.

Zenkov Cathedral (Ascension Cathedral), Panflov Park, Almaty Construction was completed in 1907 and at a height of 54 m (177 ft) this is one of the tallest wooden buildings in the world and one of the few buildings in Almaty that survived the earthquake of 1911.

Kazakhstan

Almaty and the Zailiyskiy Alatau mountains

Almaty is Kazakhstan’s former capital and the largest city by population

Almaty is flled with historical buildings, authentic bazaars and interesting museums as well as opera and ballet theatres.

The Zailiyskiy Alatau mountains offer incredible scenery, complete with glaciers

Board one of the world’s longest cable car rides up to Talgar Pass high in the Zailiyskiy Alatau mountains for a stunning view of the surrounding areas.

Above Left: Interior of the St Nicholas Cathedral, Almaty.

Above Right: Zenkov Cathedral (Ascension Cathedral) in Panflov Park, Almaty.

Below Left: St. Nicholas Cathedral, Almaty.

Below Right: The Central State Museum, Almaty.

Almaty

Kazakhstan is big. Very big! In fact, it is the world’s largest landlocked country by land area and the ninth largest country in the world. It is even larger than all of Western Europe.

A country this big should be approached one step at a time. Start o with Kazakhstan’s former capital, and largest city, Almaty. Before the nation’s capital was moved in 1997 from Almaty in the south to Astana in the north, this is where the nation’s political power was concentrated. Nowadays Almaty is the commercial and cultural capital of Kazakhstan and is also the city with by far the largest population (1.5 million which is almost double that of Astana). Almaty’s population is about 64% Kazakh and 23% Russian while minority groups include the Uzbeks, Ukrainians, Uyghur, Tatars and Germans.

In early days the city was known as Zailiyskoye and later as Verniy (meaning “loyal” in Russian) since the foundation of the “modern city” in 1855 until 1921. When the Soviet rule was established in 1918, the region became part of the Turkestan Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic and not long a er (1921) the name was changed back to one

of the ancient names of the area - Alma-Ata which in Kazakh means “Father of Apples.” Quite a tting name for this city as the area is well known as a possible ancestral home of the apple.

Two years a er the fall of the USSR, Alma Ata was renamed Almaty. e apple remained in the name! In Kazahk, Alma means apple and with the su x “ty” it means Apple City.

Almaty has several interesting attractions such as the Presidential Palace, National Museum, e 28 Pan lov Heroes Memorial Park, Republic Square and a tree-lined pedestrian street referred to as “Arbat.”

ere are several impressive religious buildings, including the Zenkov Cathedral (Ascension Cathedral) inside Pan lov Park, St. Nicholas Cathedral, and the Central Mosque.

e bustling “Green Market” is packed with fresh fruits, all kinds of meats, nuts, clothing and household items.

For stunning views of the city, particularly at night, take the bus or cable car to the top of Kok-Tobe (Green Hill). At 1,100m (3,600 ) above sea-level the views are breathtaking.

If you are into classic performances, opera or ballet, Almaty is the right place to be. Check out the local listings at the Kazakh State Aca-

demic Opera and Ballet House, referred to as the Abay Opera House.

An interesting excursion into the true Kazakh culture is the traditional Arasan Baths. While ancient in tradition, these bathing facilities were completed in 1982 and are modern and quite elaborate.

Public baths are a common feature across Central Asian cities where it serves as the meeting point with a communal atmosphere. Known as Central Asia’s most elaborate bathing spot, the Arasan Baths beautifully blends in late-Soviet architectural detail with more traditional features.

Fine marble is in abundance and the facilities are top class. Don’t forget the nest ritual inside the very hot banya (dry sauna). Come here for the cleansing and manipulation of naked esh with the infamous vyeniki (bunches of birch and oak leaves fashioned into at discs with branches for handles), which lay so ening in warm water in preparation for the beating of the naked body. Bring along a friend to beat you with the vyeniki, or alternatively make a new friend on the spot. It is not exactly appropriate to beat yourself. For a more traditional bathing experience in a truly historic building, visit the Zhirgal Banya in Bishkek (Kyrgyzstan) or the very ancient, and still working, banya in the Bukhara bazaar (Uzbekistan).

Zailiyskiy Alatau mountains

Almaty lies at an elevation of 700 m to 900 m (2,300 to 3,000 ) located in a beautiful setting at the foothills of the Zailiyskiy Alatau mountainous area of southern Kazakhstan which is part of the northern Tian Shan mountains of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan.

e highest peak in the area (Talgar Peak) towers at 4,973 m (16,300 ) above sea level and is just to the southeast of the city. is is a tectonically active area so there is always a possibility of earthquakes and mud slides. A massive earthquake in 1911, known as the “Kebin earthquake” destroyed more than 770 buildings, which was almost all of the city at that time.

A 25 km (15 mi) drive, or public bus ride, outside Almaty on the road to Chimbulak is the massive Medeu Ice-skating stadium. In winter this is a very popular attraction and don’t be surprised to come across Olympians practicing for the next Games.

Just up the hill above the skating stadium is the Medeu mud ow control dam which stretches across the Medeu Valley. As much of downtown Almaty is built on the plains below the Malaya Almatinka River, the area is highly susceptible to the formation of massive mud ows.

A er several catastrophic mud ows in the recent past, the control dam was completed in 1972. is was just in time for the potentially catastrophic mud ow of July 15, 1973.

As you board the cable car near the ice stadium, you will travel high over the dam as you head higher and higher into the Shymbulak Ski Resort area. At the mid station (2,850 m / 9,350 ) change to another cable car and again another car until you reach Talgar Pass, the highest point of the ski resort at 3,180 m (10,430 ) above sea level. e total length of the li s is 4.5 km (2.8 mi), which ranks as one of the world’s longest cable car rides. e vertical rise from the bottom station to the top station is 920 m (3,020 ).

From here the majestic mountains with either snowy slopes or evergreen Tien Shan r trees are spectacular and must be experienced. A short but di cult hike further up from the top station takes you past an impressive glacier which is only visible in the summer. If you continue climbing you should be able to see the large endorheic Issyk Kul Lake in Kyrgyzstan in a southerly direction. It is a huge lake and by volume of water it is the second largest saline lake a er the Caspian Sea. Enjoy the panoramas and fresh mountain air. GR

ESSENTIAL INFO

Getting There

Many airlines, including those from Europe, fy into the Almaty International Airport. Air Astana fies to several destinations. By land it is easy to cross the border from Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan from where minibuses and shared taxis regularly run this route to Almaty.

When to Go

Winters are cold and very snowy which will make travel more diffcult. Spring and autumn are the best times.

Getting Around

Almaty has an effcient public transportation system and it is easy to get to the mountains by public bus.

Where to Stay

Almaty has a wide variety of hotels which can be booked online.

Cost of Travel

Kazakhstan, and in particular Almaty, is generally the most expensive place to travel in Central Asia. Even so, it is considerably cheaper than most of Western Europe or North America.

Uzbekistan is most famous for its old cities packed with mosques, medrassah, bathhouses, mausoleums, harems, and mud-built houses. Outside the cities are vast stretches of desert, ancient ruins, and the drying Aral Sea to the north.

The Harem is located right next to the Isfandiyar Palace, Khiva.

Uzbekistan

HIGHLIGHTS of UZBEKISTAN

Glitzy Tashkent

Capital city Tashkent has a rich history but is now known as the glitzy city of Central Asia. However, it has no shortage of historical buildings, ancient relics, and authentic bazaars.

Ancient walled city of Khiva

Surrounded by 10-meter-high plastered brick walls, the ancient inner city is flled with many historic monuments such as mosques, medrassah, bathhouses, mausoleums, harems and an ark.

Bukhara, ancient intellectual centre of the Islamic world

Located on the ancient Silk Road, the city was the intellectual centre of the Islamic world and now is a showcase of colourful mosques and madrases.

Samarkand, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities

As one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, Samarkand is located on the Silk Road and was once described by Marco Polo as a “very large and splendid city…”

Tashkent

With a population of over 2 million people, capital Tashkent has a strong and rich history, and with some luck on its side it should have a strong and rich future.

Dating back to between the 5th and the 3rd centuries B.C., this area was settled by the peoples of ancient Persia (now Iran), the Chinese, the Turks, and many others. In early times it was known as the principality of Chach and then went through an Islamic period in the mid-seventh century under the Persian Zoroastrian Samanid dynasty (819–999). In 1219 Genghis Khan, founder and Great Khan (emperor) of the Mongol Empire, found it his duty to destroy the town and killed most of its inhabitants.

However the city was rebuilt and culture gradually revived and it grew substantially as a strategic town on the ancient Silk Road.

Holy Assumption Cathedral (Uspensky Cathedral), Tashkent.

Chorsu Bazaar, Tashkent.

Tashkent is a clean and well organised city with beautiful historical buildings. Chorsu Bazaar, located near the Kukeldash Madrassa, is incredibly authentic!

In the early 1800’s it was annexed to the Khanate of Kokan which consisted of modern day Kyrgyzstan, eastern Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, and southeastern Kazakhstan.

e Russians under Mikhail Grigorevich Chernyayev then felt obliged to conquer the city in the mid 1800’s and Mikhail declared himself “Military Governor of Tashkent” even though the Tsar was initially against the invasion.

Tashkent then became the capital of the new territory of Russian Turkistan. With the Nazi German invasion of the Soviet Union in June 1941, many factories were relocated from western Russia and Ukraine to Tashkent in an e ort to preserve the Soviet industrial power.

e city grew substantially under Soviet rule but on April 26, 1966, much of the city was destroyed by a huge 7.5 earthquake. Sadly, due to the earthquake and redevelopment

programs by the Soviets, little architectural heritage has survived of Tashkent’s ancient history. Since the breakup of the USSR in 1991, Tashkent has gone through an entire revival and rediscovery of itself.

Today Tashkent is a vibrant city with modern buildings, fast cars, glitzy ballrooms, and fortunately a few historical buildings and authentic bazaars are still standing.

Notable modern buildings in downtown Tashkent include the 22-story National Bank of Uzbekistan, an Intercontinental Hotel, the International Business Center, Xalq Bank, Dom Forum (modern congress hall) and the Plaza Building.

Among the most interesting sights in town are the Khast Imam complex, Kukeldash Madrasah, Telyashayakh Mosque, Yunus Khan Mausoleum, Palace of Prince Romanov, and the bustling Chorsu Bazaar located next to

the Kukeldash Madrassa. Several museums are worth visiting such as the Navoi Literary Museum, Amir Timur Museum, Fine Arts Museum, History Museum, and Museum of Applied Arts.

One of the most beautiful religious buildings is the Holy Assumption Cathedral Church (Uspensky Cathedral) which is not far from the central train station.

While homestays are popular across Central Asia, it is not yet permitted in Uzbekistan.

All accommodation for foreign travellers must be registered with the local government

o ce. However, the cozy Gulnara Guesthouse located close to the Chorsu Bazaar

o ers a homestay environment with several rooms arranged around a pleasant inner courtyard out tted with tables and chairs.

Enjoy your stay. Tashkent is a lovely city.

Holy Assumption Cathedral Church (Uspensky Cathedral), Tashkent.

The 10-meter-high old walls surround the ancient inner city (Itchan Kala) of Khiva.

The Khuna Ark Citadel of Khiva.

Walled City of Khiva

A rather interesting 19-hour overnight train travels from Tashkent to the town of Urgence from where it is a 30 minute taxi ride to the ancient city of Khiva.

e people of Central Asia, including the Uzbeks, are friendly and very hospitable. During long train rides be prepared to act as an entertainer to the entire carriage as people will congregate around a lonely foreigner to listen to stories, see photographs, and to share their food and drinks. While few people speak English across Central Asia, body language with constant smiling opens up the hearts for understanding and for developing fond memories.

high plastered brick walls whose foundations were laid around the 10th century. e current walls were erected in the late 17th century and have o en been repaired and rebuilt since then.

In the centre of the city is the Juma (Friday) mosque which was established during the 10th century and rebuilt in the 18th century. However, of the 212 carved wooden columns inside the mosque, several date back to the 10th century while others are from the 15th to 18th century.

While three to four days are enough to explore the entire Itchan Kala with all of its interesting buildings, an additional few days could be spent on exploring the surrounding areas such as the Aral Sea and the town of Moynaq to the north. e Aral Sea was once the 4th largest saline body of water in the world, but over the past 50 years it has been steadily drying up mainly due to Soviet mismanagement of the natural resources. e town of Moynaq once was a thriving shing town on the shores of the lake but today it sits high and dry about 150 km from the current coastline. Ships that once oated in the blue waters now stand rusting in the sun and wind at the famous ship graveyard. Moynaq is about 400 km north of Khiva and is best reached by hiring private transportation.

Modern day Khiva is a city with more than 50,000 inhabitants. e ancient inner city (Itchan Kala) is surrounded by 10-meter-

Khiva has a wide variety of accommodation in guesthouses, most notably the B&B Meros which is a lovely old house right in the old city of Itchan Kala, to more grand accommodation such as the Orient Star Khiva and Hotel Malika Kheivak.

The Itchan Kala of Khiva retains more than 50 historic monuments such as mosques, medrassah, bathhouses, mausoleums, harems and an ark, as well as more than 200 houses built during the 18th and the 19th centuries.

The Tosh Hovli (Hauli) Palace, Khiva.

Bukhara

ere is no train line between Khiva and Bukhara, but a shared taxi takes about ve hours to cross the 450 km. Its a lonely and boring road which crosses the desert and half-desert terrain not far from the border with Turkmenistan.

Bukhara, with a population of about 270,000, is one of the larger cities in Uzbekistan and certainly also one of the oldest. While settlements in the area were founded in the 6th century B.C., most of the current buildings date back between the 15th and 17th century while some were built during the 9th and 10th century.

Being part of the Persian Empire for many years, many of the current inhabitants can trace back their roots to the Persians.

Located on the ancient Silk Road, the city was not only well known for its trade in copper, but also as the intellectual centre of the Islamic world. As such, the city is dotted with numerous mosques and madrases, most notably the Kalon Mosque and Minaret, Ulugbek Medrassa, Abdul Aziz Khan Medressa, Chashma-Ayub Mausoleum and the Bukhara Fortress (the Ark).

Bukhara lost some its most precious and ancient structures during the Arab invasion and again when conquered by Genghiz Khan in 1220.

Unlike Khiva, several notable sights are away from the old city of Bukhara but can be reached on foot or by bicycle. ere is much to experience around town which includes the many primary sights but also many lesser visited sites and the authentic Kukluk Bazaar.

e Char Minar (meaning “four minarets” ) once was a gatehouse of a large medressa which no longer stands. Built along with its medressa in 1807, its architecture is more Indian in style than Uzbek. In 1998 UNESCO restored one the towers which had collapsed.

e Bolo-Hauz Mosque was built during the early 18th century and was a place of prayer for the Emirs and their entourage. e pool in front of the mosque is the oldest part of the ensemble and is one of the few remaining in Bukhara. In honour of this pool the mosque is called Bolo-Hauz, which means “children’s pool.” Its slender, 40 elegantly carved wooden pillars hold up a beautifully restored painted ceiling.

The Bolo-Hauz Mosque in Bukhara.

Char Minar is the gatehouse of a long gone medressa.

The Fayzulla Khojaev house belonged to one of Bukhara’s most famous and wealthy family of traders and is styled as the “House of a Wealthy Local Merchant.”

Bukhara was the largest centre for Muslim theology from the 9th to the 16th centuries and is an unspoiled example of a medieval Central Asia town. It is easy to spend a few days here to discover many hidden gems around town.

Shaybanid town walls in Bukhara. Only about 2 km of the original 12 km wall remains today.

Marco Polo described Samarkand as “a very large and splendid city…” Then came Alexander the Great who ransacked and destroyed much of this “splendid city.”

Samarkand

Close to the border with Tajikistan, with a population of over 300,000, Samarkand is the second largest city in Uzbekistan a er the capital city Tashkent.

Along with Bukhara (and a few other Middle East cities), Samarkand is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world.

Situated on the Silk Road, Samarkand was described by Marco Polo as a “very large and splendid city…” and Marco also wrote interesting tales about Christian churches in the city.

Just like other great cities in the region, Samarkand was conquered by Alexander the Great in 329 B.C. when it was known by the Greeks as Maracanda. Alexander ransacked and destroyed much of this “splendid city.” Fortunately, during the Hellenic period it recovered and even ourished thanks to the Greek’s superior methods of masonry and other creative initiatives. en came the Mongols and the fearless Genghis Kahn, followed by another Mongol conqueror named Khan Baraq. It took many decades to recover from these destroyers.

Fast forward to more recent times: Samarkand city came under Russian rule in 1868 and since then has been under the Soviets for much of the time.

anks to its rich history, some interesting architecture has been preserved. While the city’s main sightseeing areas are a lot more dispersed than those in Khiva and even

Bukhara, they are still within walking distance for travellers who don’t mind the legwork.

Arguably the most interesting is the Shahi-Zinda necropolis (meaning “the living King”) which is an ensemble that includes several mausoleums and other ritual buildings dating from the 9th to 14th and also the 19th centuries. e ensemble comprises of the lower, middle and upper levels which are connected by four-arched domed passages. Beyond the upper level is a very interesting graveyard shared by many ethnic groups indicating the city’s cosmopolitan history.

e Russian section, in particular, has some of the most impressive gravestone complete with brilliant stone carved busts and full gure statues.

Another highlight in the city is the ensemble of three major buildings in a U-shape arrangement: e Ulugbek Medressa, TillaKari Medressa, and the Sher Dor Medressa.

Also, don’t miss the impressive Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, as well as a few smaller sites such as the Rukhobod Mausoleum, BibiKhanym Mosque and the Bibi-Khanym Mausoleum.

One of the best markets in Central Asia is the bustling Siob Bazaar. Stock up on fresh herbs and spices, breads, and fresh fruits and vegetables. e grapes, peaches and both the yellow and red gs are locally grown, succulent and very a ordable. GR

The Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum of the Asian conqueror Tamerlane (also known as Timur) in Samarkand. It was constructed in the 15th century.

At Registan Square are the Ulugbek Medressa (left), Tilla-Kari Medressa (middle), and the Sher Dor Medressa (right), Samarkand.

One of the many tombs at the Shah-e-Zinda, Samarkand.

The Khuna Ark in Khiva is a fortress within the walled city. It has large covered iwans for the khan to sit in the shade. An iwan is a large rectangular hall with walls on three sides and one end entirely open.

Parts of the ark dates back to the 5th century. Much of the structure was completed in the 17th century, although most of what is left today dates from the 19th and 20th century.

It has an arsenal, a powder-mill, a warehouse, a kitchen, guardhouses, a stable, a parade area and a house for the khan, members of his family, and dignitaries.

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION - Uzbekistan

Getting There

The most convenient entrance to Uzbekistan is via the international airport at Tashkent. It is also possible to enter from both Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan by land. Few visitors also arrive via Turkmenistan which has a very strict and complicated visa regime.

When to Go

Summers are extremely hot and best avoided. The best time to visit is outside the summer months, which are August to March.

Getting Around

Uzbekistan is the only Central Asian country with a sizeable train network. In fact, it’s really the only country where you would, and should, consider train travel. Trains travel vast distances across Uzbekistan and it is generally a very pleasant experience.

Where to Stay

Accommodation in Uzbekistan is still strictly controlled by the government so you can’t stay with locals or self catering apartments as you like. Only government approved accommodations are allowed to host foreigners and they also must register you with the local authorities upon arrival. Technically, you should keep all accommodation receipts to show upon leaving the country, though this rule seems to be relaxed nowadays.

Cost of Travel

While the entrance fees at many historical buildings add up to a hefty amount, generally costs are fairly low especially at the local bazaars. Uzbekistan is the most touristy of all of Central Asia so with it comes money sharks and cheaters, in particular the taxi mafa. Money is best exchanged on the streets with the roving money changers who are generally trustworthy. Bring a bag to carry the many small bills.