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WORKING REMOTELY
A GROWING WORKFORCE OF DIGITAL NOMADS LEAVES THE OFFICE BEHIND. p. 40
AMSTERDAM p. 68 GLASGOW p. 64 THE HAMPTONS p. 74 MARRAKECH p. 52 MINNEAPOLIS p. 58 PETRA p. 66 SEOUL p. 60 SYDNEY p. 72
May 2017
letter from the editor ®
EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com
ON THE MOVE AS I EDITED THIS month’s feature on remote business travel (page 40), I heard the whir of cars on the busy Madrid street outside my hotel room window, and I could not help but think of how appropriate it was to be reading about that topic as I sat at a desk thousands of miles from my own in Yardley, Pa. In our technologically advanced world, it feels like anything is possible, and business can be conducted from even the farthest flung corners of the globe. We all become global nomads. I enjoyed an early taste of spring at the annual and wildly popular Philadelphia Flower Show; this year’s SPRING BLOOMS: Kimberly Krol at the Philadelphia Flower Show theme was Holland, and the PennsylPHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL vania Convention Center was awash in beautiful blooms, some highlighted in my photo this month. The bright tulip displays were visually stunning and a perfect segue to Becca Hensley’s article on how to enjoy a family-friendly visit to Amsterdam. Turn to page 68 for more. With spring in full bloom and travelers anticipating summer, we jet around the world in this issue: Madrid, Marrakech, Minneapolis, Seoul, Glasgow, Petra, Sydney, The Hamptons and Buenos Aires. With summer looming on the horizon, find ways to keep your beach bodies in check while traveling in next month’s magazine, our first-ever Wellness Issue; we update travelers on the best hotels and airports for wellness and cover how a number of destinations worldwide help travelers get moving. To keep up with me in the meantime, follow me on Instagram: @kimk928.
Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor NICOLE QUASTÉ nicole.quaste@globaltravelerusa.com Digital Content Producer DEBRA BOKUR debra.bokur@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN COLUMNISTS
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l, when at nightfal des rocky faca an morph into ldly otherwor place best viewed by . candlelight
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WORK AND PLAY I’M JUST COMING OFF an enjoyable trip to Asia, flying China Airlines’ business class to Taipei, Seoul and Singapore. It was good to catch up with all our clients in these key cities. As usual, the Lotte Hotel Seoul Downtown was fantastic, offering a perfect location for business travelers on the go. The team at Lotte took us on a tour of the new Signiel Seoul hotel in DIM SUM DELIGHT: Francis X. Gallagher at Din Tai Fung at the base of Taipei 101 the Lotte World Tower, the fifth-tallest PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER skyscraper in the world. I’m looking forward to my next stay in Seoul so I can try this wonderful new property and report back to you — unless some of you make it there first. In Singapore I took a grand tour of Changi Airport, always one of the top-rated — if not the best — airports in the world. Changi is proud of its duty-free shops, where you can peruse the collection of Scotches, jewelry and watches as you wait for your flight. I witnessed many transiting travelers indulging in whiskey tastings and then securing their purchases. There is even a counter where you can mix your own specialized cocktail. Make sure you take a few minutes to see the Butterfly Garden at Changi, where you can view exotic butterflies and even allow one to feed from your hand. In Taipei we enjoyed dim sum at Din Tai Fung at the base of Taipei 101. I was particularly fond of the stir-fried Chinese lettuce and shrimp dim sum. The restaurant is usually crowded but has a terrific numbering system so you can browse the shopping mall while you wait and perhaps pick up a Cartier watch before you sit down to dine … or just window-shop. After a short two days back in the office, I attended my annual Myrtle Beach golf trip for a preseason tune-up, playing some of my favorites including Long Bay Golf Course and the Barefoot Landing Love and Fazio courses, ending at the Dunes Club. Constructed in 1948, the Dunes Club features one of the most challenging courses on the Grand Strand, with great holes along water and well-bunkered, elevated greens. There’s plenty of native wildlife, including Hole 13’s large lake full of aggressive alligators — one we even named Big Boy. Hole 13 is one of the most difficult holes on the Strand, where you encounter howling winds as you attempt to smack your ball over the water. On our return flight from Myrtle Beach, weather issues caused delays. A concerned American Airlines gate agent rerouted us on the newly launched direct flight to Philadelphia. She assured us our bags were loaded and set us up on the soon-to-depart flight. This change saved the day and got us in earlier, avoiding rush-hour traffic in Philadelphia. We were never so happy to have a flight canceled. The AA service made a big difference! As the summer hits the team at Global Traveler, we will send you more details of our travels for business and leisure!
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contents
May 2017 44
FEATURES
BUSINESS DESTINATIONS
40 Free to Roam A growing workforce of digital nomads leaves the office behind.
52 Destination One: Marrakech Marrakech thrives at the intersection of antiquity and advancement.
44 Step by Step With an expanded global footprint, Marriott sets a measured pace for change. 48 Avant-Garde Madrid leads the meetings scene with exceptional flair.
52
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ON THE COVER globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99
58 Stateside: Minneapolis The Minneapolis Big Build inspires an extraordinary renaissance. 60 9–5: Seoul Network in Seoul, a city wired for 21st-century business.
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64 After 5: Glasgow Sip and sample your way through Glasgow after hours.
May 2017
WORKING REMOTELY
A GROWING WORKFORCE OF DIGITAL NOMADS LEAVES THE OFFICE BEHIND. p. 40
AMSTERDAM p. 68 GLASGOW p. 64 THE HAMPTONS p. 74 MARRAKECH p. 52 MINNEAPOLIS p. 58 PETRA p. 66 SEOUL p. 60 SYDNEY p. 72
COVER PHOTO: © ANDREUSK | DREAMSTIME.COM
PHOTOS: © BOWIE15 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MARRIOTT, © ELLEN CLARK, © PETER WOLLINGA |
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contents
May 2017 68
LIFESTYLE
CONNECTIONS
LEISURE DESTINATIONS
26 28 30 32 34 36 38 78 80
9 13 16 21
66 Neighborhoods: Petra Explore the ancient stone mysteries of Petra.
Technology Wine & Spirits Spoils Spas Golf Chefs Cruising LGBTQ Health
Mail Call News Reviews One on One Travel Channel 24 One on One Greece Ministry of Tourism 79 Airport Update 82 Past & Present
68 Friends & Family: Amsterdam Amsterdam entices visitors with freewheeling fun. 72 Bucket List: Sydney Breathtaking views reward those who climb the Sydney Harbour Bridge. 74 Kicking Back: The Hamptons Stay and play year-round in the culture-rich Hamptons.
Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 ©2017 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.
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© AUDEMARS PIGUET, © BRIDGECLIMB
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PHOTOS: © DENNIS VAN DE WATER | DREAMSTIME.COM, © LITTLENY | DREAMSTIME.COM,
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mail call
MARCH Q&A: KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF
Q&A WITH KATIE SKRZEK, DIGITAL DIRECTOR
In the March issue our editor in chief, Kim Krol, announced Global Traveler’s annual charity auction to benefit The Leukemia & Lymphoma Society and talked about how we can often merge charitable efforts with travel through volunteerism and travel-based auctions. She asked readers: How do you combine the two? What types of “voluntourism” and charity travel have you participated in? My daughter did a program through Projects Abroad where she volunteered as a teacher in Argentina and helped local teens and adults improve their language skills. She had the opportunity to explore not only Argentina but several countries in South America, and it was an amazing experience. I think we should take any opportunity to combine travel and giving back. VALORIE RIETVELD, Colorado Spring, Colo.
My husband and I capped off our wedding last summer with a whirlwind honeymoon, exploring New Orleans, Los Angeles, Tahiti and Bora-Bora. Travel is one of our favorite activities to do together. What better way to celebrate our one-year anniversary than with a trip? We’re still narrowing down our destination — Montréal and Portland, Ore., are among the top contenders. What do you consider when booking a trip around an anniversary, birthday or other special event? Do you have any memorable experiences? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com
industry’s rapid expansion in recent years due to innovative new ships, unique itineraries and exciting ports of call. We asked readers: Are you planning a cruise vacation in 2017? Do you prefer cruises to other forms of travel? My husband and I are planning a cruise vacation this year to Alaska. We’ve done Caribbean cruises; and while we love them, we wanted to try something completely new this year. We’ve never seen that part of the country, and some of the excursions sounded great. We’ll be sure to report back after our trip!
PHOTOS: © KATIE SKRZEK, © ML12NAN | DREAMSTIME.COM
CINDY SWARTZ, New York, N.Y.
STATE OF CRUISING In the March 1 issue of eFlyer USA, we talked about the cruise
I’m usually not a fan of cruises, but a friend and I recently did a small-ship UnCruise trip to Costa Rica and Panama, and it was great! I don’t like large cruise ships because I don’t feel like I’m on a boat most of the time. The
small-ship cruise, though, had far more excursion opportunities. We went snorkeling and did some amazing jungle and volcano hikes.
arrange with all the restrictions.
KRISTEN WARD, via email
I am planning my trip during the first week of June.
CUBA TRAVEL In the March 15 issue of eFlyer USA, we wrote about the continually rising demand in travel to Cuba despite U.S. government restrictions and other challenges. We asked readers: Are you planning on visiting Cuba in 2017? I read your article regarding travel to Cuba. We wanted to visit Cuba this year, but reading through the restrictions put us off looking into it further. We are actually South Africans currently living in the United States on work visas, so I am also not 100 percent sure how the restrictions apply in this case. We are still interested in going but don’t want it to be a mission to
SHANNON O’CONNELLJONES, Princeton, N.J.
W.B. STERN, via email
IS FIRST CLASS DISAPPEARING? In the March 22 issue of eFlyer USA, we discussed the recent innovative business-class services offered on several airlines that threaten to make international first class obsolete. I think first class is totally overpriced and not worth it. On the other hand, business class is awesome. SUSAN GRAVE, via email
I prefer first class. The lie-flat seats in business class usually come with some inconveniences: You are right next to someone
CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.
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LIE FLAT ON ALL
FLIGHTS ACROSS THE PACIFIC When flying across the Pacific in Business, travelers can stretch out and relax with fully lie-flat seats all with direct aisle access. It’s the best premium experience across the Pacific — flat out. Learn more at aa.com/moreasia
American Airlines and the Flight Symbol logo are marks of American Airlines, Inc. oneworld is a mark of the oneworld Alliance, LLC. © 2017 American Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
AMERICAN AIRLINES TAKES COMFORT AND CONVENIENCE TO NEW HEIGHTS EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL of airline service on the world’s largest network with American Airlines Premium Economy. The new class of service is now featured on the airline’s fleet of Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner aircraft. After its highly anticipated debut between Dallas Fort Worth (DFW) and São Paulo (GRU), the worldclass 787-9 quickly became a customer favorite. And no wonder—the aircraft features 21 Premium Economy seats, plus 30 fully lie-flat, all-aisle access seats in Flagship® Business. American Airlines is the first U.S. carrier to offer this innovative class of service. This enhanced product offers customers more choices when flying , including an option between Flagship® Business and Main Cabin. A flight in Premium Economy guarantees an exceptional travel experience via its comfortable leather seating with 38 inches of pitch and extendable foot, leg and head rests. As an added
bonus, Premium Economy customers enjoy priority boarding and superior amenities. Each Premium Economy seat on the 787-9 is equipped with AC power outlets and USB ports, personal seatback entertainment with live television shows, games and nearly 300 movies, including 48 new releases. Customers also receive noise-reducing headphones to use in flight, amenity kits, enhanced
meal service with complimentary wine, beer and spirits and one free checked bag. Enjoy Premium Economy when you travel from Dallas Fort Worth (DFW) to São Paulo (GRU), Madrid (MAD), Paris (CDG) and Seoul (ICN) from May 4; from Los Angeles (LAX) to Tokyo Narita (NRT) from August 5; and for a limited time from Chicago O’Hare (ORD) to Paris (CGD) from July 5. American Airlines will continue introducing its Premium Economy to additional routes and aircraft throughout the year. American Airlines designed Premium Economy with you, the traveler, in mind. Premium Economy will optimize your flight experience from gate to gate with all of the services you need and amenities you desire. Book your American Airlines Premium Economy ticket today to experience new heights in airline travel. For details and information, visit aa.com/premiumeconomy
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else, there are fewer bathrooms to accommodate more people, too many people are trying to sleep with more noise, and many seats require you climb over your neighbor to get out.
A HALF-CENTURY OF BUILDING CASTLES IN THE SAND
HANGZHOU
destination one | MEXICO CITY
IMMORTALIZED BY PAINTERS AND POETS ALIKE
Art of the City
I
n an attempt to describe Torrontés, Argentina’s signature white wine, some have compared it to Pinot Grigio, Viognier, even Riesling. But none come close. Made from the grape of the same name, Torrontés is like no other. It begins with an aroma that conjures up a bouquet of flowers (the honeyed, perfumed Muscat of Alexandria is one of its ancestors), hinting that a sweet wine will follow. But no, Torrontés goes toward dry and fruity with a tangy and spicy edge. It is the perfect aperitif and equally right with shellfish, Niçoise salad, chicken, other whitemeat dishes, lightly flavored cheese and many Asian foods. As Americans discover this intriguing wine, they will also discover that, with a myriad of choices, even the most attractive Torrontés usually costs under $20. And what are the most attractive Torrontés? Among two dozen that I’ve recently tasted, these are my favorites. Xavier Flouret Flaca 2008 ($18) is one of the most elegant Torrontés, with a delicate floral nose that hints of apricot and peach; a dry, Powered by round, well-structured body; a fruit-filled taste and vibrant acidity; and a long, delicious finish. Its Muscat ancestor comes to the fore in Lo Tengo 2009’s ($11.50) vivid, flowery aroma. It goes pod of dolphins lapping up the last few hours on to be a clearly focused, intensely I WAS MILES OFF THE coast of India in a of sunshine before the setting sun started to small wooden fishing boat on the Arabian flavored, bright and satisfying cool the water’s surface for the night. Sea when I first got the feeling we were being wine. Those happy dolphins annually swim followed. There is a suggestion of long distances to make it to the peaceful Manned by a shirtless captain and a crew sweet mint and an evocation shores of Goa, but they’re of two local fishermen of orange and peach in Finca not the only ones to discover Goa is the beach from Goa, our boat La Linda 2009’s ($11) aroma, the magic of this remarkable was stocked only with destination of choice destination. followed by a relatively full body Each year nearly tiny hooks wound and excellent balance. Altogether a for many affluent 53,000 visitors make the trip around wooden planks Unwind with a little by thinly weighted line to Goa to soak in the sun, pleasing, inviting wine. travelers looking to sand and sumptuous lifestyle Finca El Origen Reserva 2009 ($12) (the traditional “fishing coastal calm in Goa. unwind and let loose this pint-sized Indian state is clean, crisp and refreshing, offering a rod” in Goa) and two provides. BY KRISTY ALPERT typical Torrontés floral flavor with pearcoolers — one filled while in India. Goa is the beach destinawith fresh catches of and peach overtones and a gentle reminder tion of choice for many affluthe day and the other of citrus fruits in the mouth. A particularly ent travelers looking to unwind and let loose empty, having been slowly depleted of iceharmonious wine. while in India. The state sits about midway cold Kingfisher beers as the day went on. The delightful Pascual Toso 2009 ($15) Apparently I wasn’t the only one who down India’s southwestern coastline between combines keen fruit flavors, herbal notes Maharashtra to the north and Karnataka sensed the followers, and as the captain and a fresh lemony acidity with a traceslowed of the boat’s low-powered engine to a to the east and south; and although it is the smallest state in the country, it is one of the honey and floral tones. halt, our small crew froze and grew silent as richest states in India. theripe boat was soon surrounded by a playful Following its aroma of fresh flowers and fruit, Colomé 2009 ($15) is a graceful wine with citric notes reminiscent of grapefruit. 74 globaltravelerusa.com JANUARY 2017 The pale-shaded Dominio del Plata’s Crios 2009 ($13.50) has a lilac-scented aroma with peach overtones followed by a dry, tangy taste.
BY 7 A.M. ON WEEKDAY MORNINGS, most of the 22 million residents in the vast and densely packed Mexico City metropolitan area are on the move, commuting to work on crowded buses, Metro trains and suburban rail lines. Every day about 10 million personal vehicles cram the highways and side streets and, if the sky is not too smoggy, wealthy executives fly to work in private helicopters, landing on the rooftop helipads of downtown skyscrapers. Although known for its cultural institutions and more recently for its modern architecture — named World Design Capital 2018 by the International Council of Societies of Industrial Design — this sprawling metropolis remains a working-class city. An economic giant with a gross domestic product of more than $415 billion, it is one of the largest urban areas in the world based on economic output, accounting for about 22 percent of Mexico’s total
State of Bliss
In the March 28 issue of eFlyer USA we shared the results of a RewardExpert survey that lists the best and worst airports in the United States for dining. We asked readers: Are dining options an important factor in an airport experience? Which airport do you think offers the best dining options? As long as there is a healthy salad or wrap option, I’m perfectly content. What I do love, though, is a great wine or coffee bar where I don’t feel bad sitting for an extended period of time doing work and enjoying a beverage while waiting for my flight. I don’t need a 5-star restaurant, but a comfortable, quiet and relaxing place to work before my flight is ideal. I love Vino Volo in Philadelphia International, and Metropolis at Chicago O’Hare does its own roasting. JESSIE PIERSON, via email
ART OF THE CITY I travel to Mexico City for work often; and
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PHOTO: © MARINA PISSAROVA | DREAMSTIME.COM
ICELAND
ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE A
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while the traffic and general congestion are something to adjust to, it’s also one of my favorite places to travel for work. There’s so much to do, great food and friendly, welcoming people. On my last visit, some clients and I caught an exhibit at the Palacio de Bellas Artes, mentioned in your article, and it was incredible. Thanks for suggestions for new hotels and restaurants to try on my next visit!
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anywhere your business takes you, right on your globaltravelerusa.com Visit our website to access past and present articles, reports, guides, hot travel links and deals, video interviews and forms for subscribing to the magazine and our eFlyer newsletters.
MIKE MOSCONI, via email past & present
WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS? EL AL Israel Airlines EL AL Israel Airlines operated its first scheduled passenger flight July 31, 1949. One of the first two airplanes in operation was the Douglas DC-4 ‘Herzl’ 4X-ACD. Photos show the aircraft (top left) and passengers deplaning (top right) in the fall of 1949 at Lod Airport, now Tel Aviv’s Ben Gurion Airport. Later this year, EL AL will receive the first of 16 new wide-body Boeing Dreamliner aircraft (bottom photo).
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BAD FOOD DOESN’T FLY
DAY’S END:
Fishing boats on a Goa beach at sunset
May 2011 | Global Traveler | 35
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TOM LINHARD, Globility Board member, via email
FAMILY BUSINESS MEETS ROMANCE IN THE WHITE CITY
Argentina’s signature white will have all your senses dancing.
ANGELA WHITE, Globility Board member, via email I have flown United’s first class a couple of times, and other than more personal space and more attentive flight attendant service, there was no discernable difference between business class and first class. I agree it is not needed, especially with the privacy of the new United Polaris seating.
TEL AVIV
Torrontés Tango
New architecture and design help Mexico City attract more business and leisure visitors. BY RON BERNTHAL
First [class], overall, offers more privacy, is quieter and affords a wider space to settle in. Food these days is not great in either cabin, but the amenities, services and space provide a comfortable way to travel.
fine vines
kicking back | GOA
Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from visiting Old San Juan on a cruise to doing business in Mexico City.
MARCH 2017
PAST & PRESENT: EL AL ISRAEL AIRLINES My husband and I took our first flight together on Pan American World Airways in the late 1960s, and it always amazes us how much airlines have changed. We love the new Past & Present photos! ARLENE HUXLEY, Boston, Mass.
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Airbnb’s High-End Rentals
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TSA REVISES SCREENING POLICIES
The Transportation Security Administration revisited and revised some of its standard screening measures in response to results from a 2015 audit by the Department of Homeland Security. The report revealed an increasing number of prohibited objects had made it through airport security screenings and that the agency must step up its efforts to protect all passengers. Therefore, TSA plans to make its passenger pat-downs more involved and, consequently, more intrusive for passengers. Previously, TSA employed five different screening techniques when patting down passengers, but new regulations will involve only one technique which testing has shown to be more effective (and more invasive to the passenger) than the prior five. After passing through the electronic full-body scanner, some passengers will be selected for the more intimate screening depending on the results of the scan. Agents of the same sex as the traveler will continue to perform the pat-downs. tsa.gov
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GT ’s independently run travel weekly email newsletter written for executive business travelers.
GT ’s independently run travel weekly email newsletter written for the Asian travel market.
Airbnb, a company known for offering vacation authenticity via alternative accommodation options and home sharing with locals, plans to venture into the world of luxury accommodation. The international shared housing site’s recent purchase of Luxury Retreats, Inc. will allow Airbnb to expand its offerings to include previously unavailable lodging such as hilltop villas in California’s wine country or penthouse suites in Dubai. Airbnb will also offer all guests a menu of luxury amenities and services at these more exclusive locations including on-site massages, personal chefs and bartenders, and daily cleaning. With the addition of these new services, this particular subset of Airbnb experiences will harbor more similarities to hotel-style stays, catering to every need of the guest. airbnb.com
WOW Air Adds Premium Economy
The bright purple airline that has taken the travel scene by storm with its sub-$100 flights to Europe will soon offer an upgrade option for its discounted flights. Iceland-based WOW Air plans to add a premium-economy class to its aircraft, which previously offered economy class throughout the entire plane. Beginning June 1, some of the airline’s longer routes (for example, between the U.S. West Coast and Europe) will feature an upgraded class of seats with up to 37 inches of legroom, 6 inches more than in economy, as well as more comfortable and spacious seats. Purchasing one of these larger seats also comes with priority boarding and in-flight meals. WOW Air built its reputation on low-cost fares but at the expense of in-flight amenities common with other airlines. The budget airline hopes to change that by eventually rolling out three levels of seating, thus appealing to business travelers who can benefit from the low fares but still enjoy the perks of business class. wowair.com
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news New Ritz-Carlton in Malaysia
This summer a new The RitzCarlton property will open on the Malaysian archipelago of Langkawi. Beginning in July, The RitzCarlton, Langkawi will welcome guests to its tropical locale off the coast where the southern border of Thailand meets the northern border of Malaysia. The design aesthetic behind the new resort mimics a traditional local village, but
the modern property houses 90 guestrooms and 30 private villas. Guests have their pick of one of three swimming pools, with access to a day spa, sun loungers on the beach and three restaurants featuring Asian and Western cuisines. Private beach access sets the scene for snorkeling and diving in the Andaman Sea, known worldwide for its diving opportunities. ritzcarlton.com
Australia Tests Cloud-Based Passport
dfat.gov.au
New Routes from Allegiant Air
Just in time for the summer travel season, Allegiant Air is adding five new domestic routes to its menu of travel. The affordable American airline will launch routes to two of its focus cities: three new routes to Myrtle Beach, S.C.; one to Los Angeles; and one to Fort Lauderdale, Fla. All new routes will begin in May and June and will fly between the following destinations: Dayton, Ohio (DAY); Portsmouth, N.H. (PSM); and Belleville, Ill. (BLV) to Myrtle Beach (MYR); Oklahoma City (OKC) to Los Angeles (LAX); and Bellville to Fort Lauderdale (FLL). allegiantair.com
Recline in Comfort on Qantas
Future passengers on board Australia-based Qantas Airways’ premium-economy class can look forward to reclining in peace without disturbing the passengers behind them. The airline’s new rollback seats move downward instead of backward, while a footrest rolls out from below. The rolling method provides a comfortable position for the passenger while limiting the amount of space invasion for other passengers. The premium-economy seats on the Boeing Dreamliner 787 also feature ergonomic pillows, expanded seat width and five storage compartments. qantas.com
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PHOTOS: © KRITCHANUT | DREAMSTIME.COM, © MICHAEL ROSEBROCK | DREAMSTIME.COM, QANTAS
The future of travel is here … at least in Australia. Government officials are exploring the possibility of a cloud-based passport for all citizens, meaning Australians could travel around the world without an official identification document. The Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade conducted an Ideas Challenge in which nearly 400 groups submitted suggestions for how to improve the department. One submission introduced the idea of a cloud-based passport that would eliminate the need for Australians to carry passports with them when they travel. Data from Australian passports as well as biometric identifiers like fingerprints would be uploaded and stored in a central cloud. With the scan of a finger, citizens could travel without possessing additional documentation. Although security concerns are still in question, testing may begin this year, starting with short-haul travel between Australia and New Zealand.
PHOTOS: © CHU-WEN LIN | DREAMSTIME.CO, © STUDIOPORTOSABBIA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © BOARDING1NOW | DREAMSTIME.COM, © CATHAY PACIFIC AIRWAYS
deals & rewards
Free Hotel Rooms for Layovers
Some of the lowest airfares available tend to come with a caveat, like two connections on the way to your destination or one massive layover. Although the route may not be ideal, there may be a chance to score a free night’s stay at a hotel when faced with a lengthy overnight layover. For example, if your itinerary aboard Air Canada’s business or premiumeconomy class includes a stopover of six hours or longer in either Montréal, Toronto or Vancouver and involves a des-
tination outside of the United States and Canada, the airline allows passengers to sign up for a free hotel stay at least 96 hours before departure. On round-trip flights with Turkish Airlines, business- and economy-class passengers with layovers of at least seven or 10 hours (to a maximum of 24 hours), respectively, are eligible for two free nights in an İstanbul hotel. Before booking your next long-haul, multi-layover trip, scour the airline’s website or contact customer service to see if a free hotel stay is part of the deal.
Fly Boston to Europe for Less
As summer approaches, flight fares are dropping, and not just domestically. Between now and the end of June, roundtrip flight prices between Boston and three European cities dropped below $450. A handful of international airlines have chosen to compete with Icelandair’s low rates by connecting the U.S. East Coast with major European cities like Paris (CDG), Munich (MUC) and Amsterdam (AMS). For example, mid-June flights from Boston (BOS) to Paris’ Charles de Gaulle Airport are as low as $370 with British Airways, and Iberia offers flights from Boston to Munich (with a stopover in Madrid) for $418. Fares at these prices are not guaranteed and should be booked as early as possible.
Cathay Pacific Rewards Credit Card
Asian airline powerhouse Cathay Pacific rolled out a new credit card exclusively for American travelers. Frequent travelers who sign up for the new Cathay Pacific Visa card will earn up to two Asia Miles for every $1 spent. When cardholders spend a minimum of $2,500 during the first 90 days of card membership, they can earn 25,000 Asia Miles, enough to go toward a one-way ticket to almost any of the airline’s 173 destinations. Cardholders can also earn between one and two Asia Miles for online or in-flight purchases, as well as dining and shopping experiences both in the United States and overseas. Miles also can be redeemed with partner airlines such as Alaska Airlines, British Airways and American Airlines. New cardmembers will be enrolled automatically into Cathay Pacific’s Marco Polo Club (oneyear membership), which offers priority check-in and boarding, among other benefits. cathaypacific.com
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GT tested
BELMOND CHARLESTON PLACE Reviewed by Kimberly Krol
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
◆ While the accommodations were tops, the real perk of my guestroom was the access to the clublevel amenities, of which I made good use, including hot breakfast, afternoon snacks and cocktails.
Guest Quarters: My club-level guestroom, with an understated but elegant décor reminiscent of old-fashioned Southern charm, opened into a short hallway with the bathroom to the left. The marble-accented bathroom featured a spacious shower with a rainfall showerhead — my favorite. The in-room toiletries in club-level rooms are exclusive for the Belmond Charleston Place, and I was obsessed with the smell of the hand soap. I had to stop the door with the trashcan if I wanted to keep the bathroom door open. As I was traveling with a friend, I requested a room with two double beds, which were exceedingly comfortable to sink into at the end of the day. A nightstand with ample lighting and outlets separated the beds, situated across from a credenza housing the minibar and flat-screen TV. A reading nook with two chairs and a desk rounded out the offerings.
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◆ In early 2016 the property completed a $34 million renovation of its guestrooms.
Services/Amenities: The multiple award-winning Belmond Charleston Place shines when it comes to services and amenities. While my stay wasn’t long enough to include a visit to Charleston Grill, it is on the top of my to-do list for a return stay. The menu is divided into Executive Chef Michelle Weaver’s four inspirations: Southern, Pure, Lush and Cosmopolitan. The Palmetto Café serves American Lowcountry cuisine, while Thoroughbred Club offers a tapas-style menu and live music. Meeting at Market is an upscale pub. The spa boasts 10 treatment rooms, a pool, a eucalyptus dry sauna and a fitness center. I think this will be my second stop next time I visit Charleston, right behind Charleston Grill. More than 40,000 square feet of recently renovated event space ranges from a grand ballroom to boardroom-style meeting rooms, suited to host weddings, corporate functions and everything in between.
◆ Some of the many Shops at Belmond Charleston Place include Gucci, Kate Spade New York, Louis Vuitton and St. John. Belmond Charleston Place 205 Meeting St. Charleston, SC 29401 tel 843 722 4900 belmond.com
PHOTOS: © BELMOND CHARLESTON PLACE
Arrival/Check-In: I spent a long weekend in Charleston following a friend’s wedding on Folly Beach. As I arrived at Belmond Charleston Place well before check-in time, my room was not ready, so I ventured to brunch — a short walk down King Street that felt much longer when the skies opened up into a full-fledged storm. Needless to say, after a soggy meal I was relieved to receive a call from the hotel telling me my room was ready. I picked up my bags and keys and was on my way to my third-floor room in a matter of minutes.
◆ Belmond Charleston Place is perfectly situated for exploring the city, including King Street, the main thoroughfare, and I was happy to be able to take off on foot from the hotel to most of my planned activities — once the sun came out.
GT tested
1 HOTEL SOUTH BEACH Reviewed by Banu Yilmaz
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
◆ Each room comes with its own smartphone guests can use to call the front desk or concierge, or even text a valet to have their car ready in less than 10 minutes. What a timesaver, especially when your day is filled with meetings morning to night.
PHOTO: © 1 HOTEL SOUTH BEACH
Arrival/Check-In: As you enter the lobby, you get a true sense you are in South Beach. People are dressed in white, lounge chairs and couches are arranged near the wall-to-wall windows as you gaze outside to Collins Avenue, in the heart of everything you want. A friendly front desk attendant provided my room key right away and quickly helped get my suitcase to the room with ease. I was invited to take a basket of locally grown fruit, and that’s exactly what I did as I walked toward the elevators and to my room on the third floor. On the way, I passed a small deli behind reception, which proved a good spot for midday snacks for my constantly hungry appetite. Guest Quarters: The 650-square-foot room was indeed spacious compared to the Miami standards I was accustomed to. It even held a large, white couch with an exquisitely designed coffee table. The same luxury applied to everything in the room, from the desk and lightning to the bathroom with its large bathtub and separate shower. The room exuded an Art Deco feeling throughout, along with modern touches like salvaged driftwood walls and a glass terrarium. Although the room didn’t offer full ocean views, I could still take the wonderful sea breeze into my lungs from the private balcony with its
◆ Make sure to enjoy a meal at the newly opened restaurant, Beachcraft, by five-time James Beard award winner and celebrity chef Tom Colicchio. Definitely try the seafood tower, faro salad and Wagyu steak. The restaurant’s impeccable wine list and deliciously crafted cocktails not only feed your taste buds but also your eyes. ◆ Free WiFi is provided in the guestrooms and the lobby. ◆ Don’t miss the fun cocktails at Watr at The 1 Rooftop (ages 21 and up), a great treat for happy hour or a girls’ night out.
combined views of ocean and city. Bathrobes and towels were all custom-made of organic materials exclusively for 1 Hotels.
Services/Amenities: 1 Hotel thought of every detail. My king-sized Keetsa bed consisted of a custom hemp-blend mattress and 100 percent organic sheets set on top of a rough-hewn oak platform. Bathroom products were also custom-made with all-natural products, and my favorite feature of the bathroom was its triple-filtered shower — simply heavenly! In-room amenities included a Nespresso machine, filtered water taps and my own yoga mat. I was all set.
1 Hotel South Beach 2341 Collins Ave. Miami Beach, FL 33139 tel 305 604 1000 1hotels.com
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GT tested
AL RAHA BEACH HOTEL Reviewed by Kimberly Krol
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
Arrival/Check-In: Unfortunately, I fell ill during my trip to Dubai, and the ride from Dubai to Abu Dhabi felt much longer than one hour. Needless to say, I was quite happy when my Uber pulled up in front of the expansive Al Raha Beach Hotel. I must say, however, if there’s anything that could make a sick traveler feel better, it’s the waterfront views at Al Raha. I was equally pleased with the efficient check-in and thankful for the escort to my room, which meant I didn’t have to aimlessly wander the large property in search of my guestroom.
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area and the desk sat near the floor-to-ceiling windows.
Services/Amenities: My one-night stay was too brief to make use of all the resort’s amenities, but my colleague and I did have a chance to enjoy lunch by the pool between meetings. The hotel offers nine on-site dining and entertainment options, as well as numerous meeting and event spaces. The hotel also has a private beach. The Kids Club & Playground is attractive for traveling families, as is the by-request babysitting service and on-site shopping mall and cinema. I appreciated the many wellness offerings, even without time to use them: a spa, fully equipped gym, water sports, salon, squash courts, Jacuzzi and an 18-hole golf course nearby.
◆ I appreciated the hotel’s proximity to the airport. I had a late-night flight and was able to stay in my room until just before leaving for the airport, despite only having booked a one-night stay. ◆ The beach views just outside my window tempted, but the desk was situated so my back was to the windows, helping this business traveler stay focused. Al Raha Beach Hotel P.O. Box 38616 Abu Dhabi, U.A.E. tel 971 2 508 0555 danathotels.com
PHOTOS: © AL RAHA BEACH HOTEL
Guest Quarters: Al Raha is located outside of the city center, which makes it better suited to leisure travelers; however, as my meetings were between the city center and the airport, it was a convenient location. Situated along the Arabian Gulf, it feels removed from the city’s hustle and bustle, despite being close enough for guests to easily transfer in and out of Abu Dhabi proper. Depending on your room location, prepare for a bit of a walk between the various hotel offerings. Aside from the serene view, the highlight of my guestroom was the spacious bathroom, offering a walk-in rain shower and more than enough room to spread out. A king-sized bed was flanked on either side by nightstands and sat across from an entertainment center with a flat-screen TV. A small sitting
◆ The sumptuous breakfast buffet is certainly worth a visit. The ample offerings ensure business or leisure travelers can fuel up for the day ahead.
GT tested
THE PENINSULA BEVERLY HILLS Reviewed by Angelique Platas
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
◆ On top of the personal touches, amenities and the hotel’s beautiful Christmas décor, the service and staff at the hotel all impressed.
PHOTOS: © THE PENINSULA BEVERLY HILLS
Arrival/Check-In: This past December I traveled to California for Global Traveler’s 13th annual GT Tested Reader Survey awards gala, hosted by The Peninsula Beverly Hills. Having been to the city only once before and hearing great things about the hotel, I was excited for my first stay and looked forward to the firsthand experience. The property exceeded my high expectations from the start. Upon arrival I was immediately greeted and guided inside to the elegantly decorated reception area, all ready for the holidays. I sat comfortably in the lobby waiting for my room to be ready, enjoying a homemade hot apple cider complete with a cinnamon stick garnish. After just 10 minutes I was escorted upstairs where my bag was already waiting. Guest Quarters: The French doors of my deluxe room looked out over the gardens, filling the room with natural light. The floralpatterned curtains and accents throughout the room provided a vintage, classic charm to the room while remaining bright and airy. I must mention the monogrammed pillowcase proudly positioned atop my king-sized bed. Seeing my initials embroidered on my pillow was a unique and special touch. The spacious bathroom boasted a beautiful tub with separate walk-in shower and ample counter space surrounding the large sink. With bright lighting and full-length mirrors along the wall, the large bathroom served perfectly as a dressing room.
Services/Amenities: After a lovely rooftop lunch with my coworkers, I made my way to the fitness center. The room, though of modest size, was high-tech. Each machine seemed new and had its own television screen in an area a bit separated from the open weight section. I exited the fitness center through the spa and enjoyed a refreshing fruit-infused water on my way out. The Peninsula provides a wide variety of services and amenities, but unfortunately I didn’t have much time to take advantage of them all.
◆ I was running late for my return flight and, assuming I would miss it, I briefly mentioned the issue to the concierge while I was checking out. Mid-sentence, another staff member was already dialing the doorman and had a cab ready for me in seconds. I made it to my flight just as it was boarding and appreciated the swift service of The Peninsula staff. The Peninsula Beverly Hills 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd. Beverly Hills, CA 90212 tel 310 551 2888 peninsula.com
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GT tested
ME MIAMI Reviewed by Steven Bright
Guest Quarters: The guestroom was well appointed with custom furnishings, ultra-plush bedding, modern technology, in-room “maxi” bar and a view of one of two hotel pools. The room also featured floor-to-ceiling windows, vibrant art and ample storage space. As you
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enter the bathroom, expect to find a state-of-the-art vanity and shower: spacious, with two individual sink basins, a large countertop and a roomy rain shower. The room was extremely quiet as well, so it was easy to enjoy a good night’s sleep in the cushy king-sized bed.
Services/Amenities: Our first night at the hotel we dined at STK Miami restaurant, located on the ground floor of ME Miami. The chefs did not disappoint. We enjoyed an array of excellent dishes including heirloom tomatoes with burrata cheese, seared scallops and tuna tartar. Then it was on to the main course — given the excellent reputation of the quality of meat at STK, we both opted for the 10-ounce filet, one of the best steaks I have ever had. The restaurant and bar staff were friendly and sociable, and the experience made an excellent way to finish off our evening. Other amenities and services that make ME Miami stand out include the infinity-edge lap pool overlooking the bay, a wide variety of massage and spa services and several pet services.
TOP TAKEAWAYS:
◆ Situated perfectly in downtown Miami, ME Miami offers modern and stylish accommodations where attention to detail, comfort and convenience are paramount. ◆ Every member of the hotel staff we encountered was professional, friendly and helpful. ◆ The restaurant STK Miami was fantastic, offering an array of excellent dishes including its famous steak filet. ME Miami 1100 Biscayne Blvd. Miami, FL 33132 tel 305 350 9828 me-by-melia.com
PHOTOS: © ME MIAMI
Arrival/Check-In: It had been about a decade since my last visit to Miami, so I was excited to experience the city again. I looked forward to staying at the recently opened ME Miami Hotel — the first-ever U.S. destination from the brand, part of Meliá Hotels International. The hotel and resort group, one of the largest in the world, is known for its attention to detail and customer service. This was evident from the moment we arrived. The general manager, Ernesto Luna, greeted us with a warm smile and complimentary Champagne and gave us a tour of the hotel, including STK Miami restaurant and a modern and sleek lounge for meetings on the third floor. Our check-in was seamless, and the entire staff was both upbeat and professional.
one on one
ANTHONY MELCHIORRI Creator and Host, Travel Channel’s Hotel Impossible, and Managing Director and Founder, Argeo Hospitality
PHOTO: © TRAVEL CHANNEL
ABOUT YOUR BRAND Tell our readers about Hotel Impossible and your experiences. The show was conceived with the idea of trying to teach people the hotel business. Now it’s turned into saving people’s financial futures. Unlike other businesses such as retail or restaurants where you make a revenue of $50,000–100,000, when it comes to hotels, millions of dollars are at stake. It becomes a desperate quest to save generational money. Some people invested everything they have into one hotel; and if they don’t figure out an efficient business model quickly, they will incur debt the next generation will be responsible for. When I approach a hotel, it’s my only priority because I have four days to turn it around and make a difference. We’re currently on our eighth season, and one of my favorite parts is how real people open up their hearts and are so appreciative of our efforts. Name: Anthony Melchiorri Title: Creator and host, Travel Channel’s Hotel Impossible, and managing director and founder, Argeo Hospitality Company, city: Argeo Hospitality; New York, N.Y. Number of employees: It varies depending on the project, but we currently have seven. Recent project: We’re working on the Streamline Hotel in Daytona Beach, Fla., the home of NASCAR; we’re infusing the history of the city back into the hotel. We’re also working on two resorts in South America and Central America. First job: At age 11, I was a paperboy in Sheepshead Bay, Brooklyn. Little-known fact about you: I can juggle anything. YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over
the next years? The home-sharing concept will come into our lives in a way we haven’t even imagined. Whether it’s partnerships with airlines or lifestyle brands aligning with companies such as Airbnb, guests will experience cities in a deeper way. Hotels’ cookie-cutter concept didn’t truly cater to guests and their needs. People in our industry finally realize hotels are homes and must adapt to a traveler, not vice versa. What is the best career advice you’ve received? Do a bit more and you’ll go a lot further. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Don’t complain because nobody cares. Just work hard. Everything is so transparent these days, and people think it’s a quick rise to the top. Anyone who accomplished anything
did so by outworking everyone around them.
AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: I went to Rome with my brother for the first time and was told a couple of family members were having a small lunch for us at their apartment. As we entered, we saw more than 50 people crammed inside, thrilled to meet us. It was such a surreal moment. One travel tip you cannot live without: Always email a passport copy to yourself. Also, when traveling with kids, be mindful their passports expire every five years. Best advice for business travelers: I always carry duplicates of everything, including two wallets, each containing a driver’s license, cash and credit cards.
What is included in the Hotel Guest’s Bill of Rights? Whether a person stays in a 1-star or 5-star property, the Hotel Guest’s Bill of Rights provides a framework of what every guest deserves: water, shelter, safety, security and food. In a highly competitive market, consumers will always have the edge, and a smart hotel will step up no matter what the request. What are some tips for scoring hotel upgrades? Be nice and always compliment the front desk on the hotel’s appearance. They’re not looking for tips, but they deal with hundreds of people a day, so kindness works wonders. You could get an upgrade if you arrive later, unless it’s peak season or rooms are sold out. At 11 p.m. the front desk agent is usually sitting with three or four empty seats. If you arrive early in the morning, the staff is still going through arrivals and requests, so you don’t have as much of a chance of scoring that upgrade.
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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
Welcome to Monterrey With the opening of three new hotels, Posadas reaffirms its commitment to Mexico, Monterrey and tourism.
Live Aqua Urban Resort Monterrey
Grand Fiesta Americana Monterrey
LIVE AQUA URBAN RESORT MONTERREY invites guests to experience a stay full of excitement. The sensorial lifestyle resort is located in a distinctly urban and stylish setting where luxury and exclusivity fill the air without being stuffy or overwhelming. Rediscover the freedom to follow your desires wherever they may take you, in an an environment where you can reach new levels of self-indulgence. The sights, smells, tastes, sounds and other subtle details will win you over as you revel in a setting where hospitality and personalized service are top priorities, ensuring a truly memorable stay from beginning to end. GRAND FIESTA AMERICANA MONTERREY VALLE offers a stay full of comfort andexceptional hospitality in a contemporary Mexican locale. Its spectacular architecture, classic design and sophisticated ambience transport guests to a world of luxury and unique amenities. Grand Fiesta Americana Monterrey Valle features 180 spacious rooms, a delicious gastronomic experience in its 1856 restaurant, innovative cocktails in the bar La Maestranza, a gym, a business center and lounges fully equipped for events and meetings. FIESTA AMERICANA MONTERREY PABELLÓN M lies within one of Mexico’s most developed cities, against the backdrop of the gorgeous Sierra Madre mountain range. The hotel features nine floors of guestrooms that offer spectacular views of the city, in addition to a swimming channel, massage rooms and a gym. Other amenities include comfy common areas, event rooms and a restaurant and bar where guests can dine on the outdoor terrace and enjoy the stunning view. Stay with us at Fiesta Americana Monterrey Pabellón M. This is just the beginning of great growth. Stay with Us.
Fiesta Americana Monterrey Pabellón M
fiestamericana.com
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GRAND FI E S TA AMER IC AN A C A NCUN • GUADALAJ AR A • LOS C ABOS M E X I CO C IT Y • M O NTER R E Y VALLE • P UEB LA ANGELO P O LIS P UERTO VALLARTA • Q UER E TARO
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one on one
ELENA KOUNTOURA Minister of Tourism, Greece
YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next
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years? Ιn the fast-growing global tourism sector, where rapid changes occur in travel patterns and habits and new markets emerge, the key for destinations to stand out is to showcase their distinct identity based on authenticity, innovation and sustainability. Our new tourism policy promotes Greece as a global, attractive destination 365 days a year, highlighting a wide array of authentic, highly personalized experiences while protecting the richness, diversity and beauty of our nature and our thousands of years of history, traditions and culture. We work toward becoming an exemplary destination of sustainable
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AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: Having traveled the world, the most rewarding moments have been those when I engaged with the locals and exposed myself to new cultures and ideas. But some of the most precious memories I gained while traveling within Greece, discovering something new and different as part of the magic this country generously offers. One travel tip you cannot live without: Technology provides fast and easy ac-
cess to information in advance about the destination, its history and culture, and the options for places to visit and experience. Βest advice for business travelers: Find time to explore the destination you are visiting. ABOUT YOUR BRAND What can premium travelers expect from a visit to Greece? Greece offers unlimited options throughout the year for high-end vacation and tourism services in luxury resorts, boutique hotels and villas of the highest comfort, privacy and style as well as special packages for couples, families, individuals and groups of friends. As the largest and most diverse complex of islands in the Mediterranean, with more than 37,000 miles of coastline, Greece boasts several great marinas. Beyond our cosmopolitan islands, we introduce fascinating new destinations ideal for yachting and cruising as well as for golf, wellness and spas, diving, gastronomy and luxury amenities. What can our readers look forward to in 2017/2018? Our 100-plus inhabited islands, each with its own beauty and identity, are known for their distinct atmosphere, architecture, landscape and travel experiences. The majestic mainland’s seashore, breathtaking mountains, gorges, lakes, rivers and trails are ideal for biking, hiking and rock climbing in all seasons. Athens, Salonica and other cities offer ancient monuments, contemporary arts, festivals, entertainment and nightlife, great shopping and dining in fine restaurants. The Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center, Athens’s newest cultural gem, houses the Greek National Opera, a 2-million-book National Library and a 42-acre park on Athens’ Faliro Bay. Along with new 4- and 5-star hotels, these developments create a new contemporary culture, sparking renewed interest in the country and further strengthening Greece as a destination and a brand. What are your recommendations for a visit to Greece? The exquisite landscape, rich history and culture are timeless elements embedded in the whole travel experience. Visitors should see some of our 18 UNESCO World Heritage sites, our renowned festivals, museums and galleries. Local fairs and village feasts in open-air theaters, castles and squares bring people together to celebrate life through music, dance, incredible food and locally grown products that promote health and longevity. Traveling around Greece can be a never-ending experience, and this is why many visitors return several times to see more of our amazing destination.
PHOTO: © GREECE MINISTRY OF TOURISM
Name: Elena Kountoura Title: Minister of Tourism, Greece Company, city: Ministry of Tourism; Athens, Greece Number of employees: Almost 1 million jobs in Greece are linked with tourism and travel. Recent project: National tourism policy to promote Greece as a 365-day destination First job: Physical education professor Little-known fact about you: Mother of two wonderful sons
tourism development that will benefit our millions of visitors and the people of Greece, and generate tourism activity across the country and throughout the year. What is the best career advice you’ve received? The most valuable advice came from my sports coaches since an early age, as a member of Greece’s national track and field team and during my university studies: Set goals in life and try your best to achieve them with discipline, perseverance, hard work, high values and ethics. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Have a vision and the strong will to work toward making it happen despite obstacles and challenges that are likely to occur.
technology
INTELLIGENCE PLUS Enhance your lifestyle with smart, versatile products. BY AKHIL KALEPU
BLUESMART ONE
FITBIT FLEX 2
GOOGLE HOME
LEICA SOFORT
For casual athletes, many fitness trackers are too complicated for daily use. Not everyone goes to the gym every day, so it’s hard to find one that works well with your daily routine. The Flex 2 succeeds in having a variety of looks since the tracker is actually a small device that fits inside the band. If you want to monitor your steps at work or when going out, Fitbit offers a variety of stylish necklaces and bands, or you can place the device in an accessory of your own choosing. There are more full-featured trackers out there, but the Flex 2 excels in its simple and versatile design. $99.95. fitbit.com/flex2
Artificial intelligence is making its way into homes everywhere. Many are familiar with Siri, Apple’s AI software available on the iPhone, while Amazon is looking to compete with its own Alexa devices. Google is the latest to enter the fray with its Google Home Device, a voice-controlled Bluetooth speaker that interacts with your personal Google account. Its feature set is currently limited to a variety of entertainment applications, but the company plans to implement tighter integration with Gmail, Google Calendars and a growing ecosystem of smart home products. $129.99. madeby.google.com/home
Leica has many fans in the world of photography, but they’re probably not going to like the Sofort. That’s because this is the company’s first instant print camera, a retro-style analog device utilizing Fuji’s Instax film (as well as Leica-branded film packs, available in a variety of tones like monochrome). The camera has an f/12.7 aperture and a 60mm focal length (34mm compared to a full frame), but what it lacks in gadgetry it makes up with usability. Leica’s Sofort is meant as a point-and-shoot, focusing on spontaneous shots enhanced by the camera’s analog textures. $299. leica-camera.com
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PHOTOS: © BLUESMART, © FITBIT, © GOOGLE, © LEICA
Smart luggage is becoming all the rage, packing a variety of gadgets into the venerable rolling suitcase along with a hefty price tag that compares to high-end, analog luggage like Tumi. With the Bluesmart One you get two USB charging ports, GPS tracking, a Bluetooth connection to control the digital lock and proximity alerts, as well as a lost luggage recovery compliments of Uber. Lock and battery are TSA compliant. The suitcase is designed to maximize your carry-on space, so make sure it falls within your airline’s requirements. $449. bluesmart.com/one
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wine & spirits
A VERY GOOD YEAR
BURGUNDY, A QUIET LAND of tiny, medieval stone villages and pocket-sized vineyards in eastern France, makes some of the world’s greatest wines, and it does so using only two varietals. Whites are made totally from Chardonnay, and reds are made totally from Pinot Noir. Other countries plant the same grapes, and many make exceptionally fine wines from them, but none quite achieves the mystique of Burgundy. Only in Burgundy do these grapes produce wines as sensuous as liquid silk. Part of Burgundy’s individual character comes from its soils and from its cold winters and warm but rarely hot summers, allowing the grapes to ripen slowly. In 2015 Burgundy experienced a particularly fine growing season. As a result, the wines of 2015 have been hailed as exceptional. I recently tasted a number of them and did, indeed, find them impressive. Here, in limited space, are a few. Among the whites, Olivier Leflaive ChassagneMontrachet ($78) is a distinctive, opulent, rich, balanced wine. Domaine Faiveley Meursault Blagny, 1er Cru ($90), a bright wine showing both floral and stony qualities, offers a delicious finish.
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Domaine Christian Moreau Père & Fils Chablis “Vaudésir,” Grand Cru ($107) is an elegant, racy, crisp, well-balanced wine with apple and floral hints. For reds, consider Domaine du Comte Armand Auxey-Duresses Rouge ($52), a vibrant wine with finesse. One of Burgundy’s finest producers of Volnay offers Domaine Michel Lafarge Volnay “Vendanges Sélecionnées” ($78), a truly beautiful example of the wine which presents the concentrated flavors of red berries; a fine structure; a light minerality; and a long, satisfying finish. Domaine Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux, 1er Cru ($142.50) is a fine, focused and rich wine with juicy fruit flavors. Domaine Sylvain Cathiard & Fils Nuits St. Georges “Aux Thorey,” 1er Cru ($240) offers a charming wine with dark red fruit flavors, ample body and a hint of vanilla and spice. Like all fine Burgundy wines, they are not inexpensive. But if you want to splurge on a special bottle for a special occasion and decide to make it a Burgundy 2015, you’ll likely feel it was money well-spent.
PHOTO: © JUNGHEE CHOI | DREAMSTIME.COM
Burgundy’s exceptional 2015 wines rise to any occasion. BY EUNICE FRIED
2017 GT Tested Reader Survey Awards Ballot Please write in your personal favorites, based on your own experience, on the line next to each of the following categories.
AIRLINE BEST Overall Best Airline in the World____________________________________________ Airline Alliance___________________________________________________________ Aircraft Type _____________________________________________________________ Airline Website __________________________________________________________ Fastest-Growing Airline – Trans-Pacific_______________________________________ Best Airline for . . . Business Class_______________________________________________________ International First Class________________________________________________ Domestic First Class__________________________________________________ Onboard Service _____________________________________________________ Flight Attendants_____________________________________________________ Flight Attendant Uniforms _____________________________________________ Airline Cuisine________________________________________________________ Security_____________________________________________________________ First-Class Seat Design____________________________________________________ Business-Class Seat Design _______________________________________________ Best New Airline Service Launch___________________________________________ Best Frequent-Flyer Programs Overall Best Frequent-Flyer Program____________________________________ Elite-Level Program___________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion_____________________________________________________ Award Redemption___________________________________________________ Customer Service ____________________________________________________
BEST AIRLINE BY LOCATION Best Airline in . . . Africa_______________________________________________________________ Australia and New Zealand_____________________________________________ Central/South Asia and India __________________________________________ China_______________________________________________________________ Eastern Europe_______________________________________________________ Europe______________________________________________________________ Mexico______________________________________________________________ The Middle East _____________________________________________________ North America________________________________________________________ North Asia (excluding China)___________________________________________ The South Pacific_____________________________________________________ To South America and Central America______________________________________ To Japan_________________________________________________________________ Trans-Atlantic Airline______________________________________________________ Trans-Pacific Airline_______________________________________________________
AIRPORT BEST Overall Best Airport in the World____________________________________________ Overall Best Duty-Free Shop in the World____________________________________ Airport Staff/Gate Agents__________________________________________________ Airport Dining____________________________________________________________ Airport Shopping _________________________________________________________ Duty-Free Shops in . . . Asia________________________________________________________________ Africa_______________________________________________________________ Europe______________________________________________________________ The Middle East______________________________________________________ Best Airport in . . . Asia_________________________________________________________________ Africa_______________________________________________________________ Europe______________________________________________________________ The Middle East______________________________________________________ North America________________________________________________________ South America_______________________________________________________
HOTEL BEST
International Hotel Chain_________________________________________________ Domestic Hotel Chain___________________________________________________ Lifestyle Hotel__________________________________________________________ MICE Hotel ____________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) Hotel Club Floor________________________________________________________ Hotel Website__________________________________________________________ New Luxury Hotel in Asia _______________________________________________ Best Frequent-Stay Programs Best Hotel Rewards Program in the World_____________________________ Elite-Level Program_________________________________________________ Bonus Promotion___________________________________________________ Award Redemption_________________________________________________ Customer Service___________________________________________________
HOTEL BEST BY LOCATION Best Hotel in . . . Asia_______________________________________________________________ Europe____________________________________________________________ South Korea________________________________________________________ The Middle East____________________________________________________ The United States __________________________________________________ Best Hotel Chain in . . . Asia_______________________________________________________________ Europe____________________________________________________________ Latin America______________________________________________________ Mexico____________________________________________________________ The Middle East____________________________________________________
OTHER BEST Overseas Delivery Program ______________________________________________ Rental Car Company____________________________________________________ Tourism Destination_____________________________________________________ MICE City _____________________________________________________________ (Meetings, Incentives, Conventions, Exhibitions) WiFi Service___________________________________________________________ Wireless Phone Service in the World______________________________________ Noise-Canceling Headset Brand__________________________________________ Luggage Brand_________________________________________________________ Photographic Brand_____________________________________________________ Ride Share_____________________________________________________________ Hotel App______________________________________________________________ Airline App_____________________________________________________________ Credit Cards Best Overall Credit Card_________________________________________________ Best Small-Business Credit Card _________________________________________ Best Credit Card Special Events __________________________________________ Credit Card Rewards Program____________________________________________ Frequent-Stay Affinity Credit Card ________________________________________ Promotions________________________________________________________ Benefits___________________________________________________________ Redemptions_______________________________________________________ Frequent-Flyer Affinity Credit Card________________________________________ Promotions________________________________________________________ Benefits___________________________________________________________ Redemptions_______________________________________________________ Best Cruise Line Affinity Credit Card______________________________________ Rental Car Affinity Card__________________________________________________
PLEASE MAIL THE COMPLETED SURVEY TO: Kevin Ryan, Citrin Cooperman & Company, LLP, 1800 JFK Blvd., 20th Floor, Philadelphia, PA 19103 | Or FAX to 215 545 4810 Or vote online at globaltravelerusa.com/gt-tested-awards-ballot Name Street Address City Home Phone
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spoils
A MOTHER’S GLOW Dazzle your mom with gems, baubles and chic style. BY PATRICK T. COOPER AND TERRY A. SPRUNGER ONE HUMAN BEING ABOVE all deserves the best: Mother. A mother’s season of celebration should be 365-24/7. No token can compete with the love, support and affection of women who cherish and bear the torch of motherhood, but we come pretty darn close with our spoils. Make Mom sparkle, shimmer and glow with a gift from our medley of luxury staples this Mother’s Day.
mercedesbrunelli.com
audemarspiguet.com
MEL BOTERI AND KZ NOEL The perfect summer tote has arrived. Seamless integration of genuine python and a jute rope base make The Ellis bag a must-have for the next island excursion or just bopping around Manhattan. Luxury, versatility and function make this tote unique and a mainstay for the global woman. $1,825. melboteri.com
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acquadiparma.com
PHOTOS: © AUDEMARS PIGUET, © MEL BOTERI, © ACQUA DI PARMA, © MERCEDES BRUNELLI
AUDEMARS PIGUET Dazzle your mother on a day designed uniquely for her. The Audemars Piguet Millenary Hand-Wound is the ultimate Mother’s Day spoil. Its 18-carat pink gold casing paired with a shimmering alligator band exudes exquisite craftsmanship. The 116 brilliant-cut diamonds will surely provide the sparkle so befitting a matriarch. $28,400.
MERCEDES BRUNELLI Dynamite comes in small packages. Mercedes Brunelli takes embellishment to a new level. Champagne Bubble is the title of this clutch gem, so let the festivities begin. Happy Mother’s Day. $595.
ACQUA DI PARMA Give Mom a burst of peony. A refined blend of black pepper and notes of raspberry makes this scent perfect for any occasion. Mother will adore this signature waft. Peonia Nobile Eau de Parfum, 50ml /1.7 oz., $138.
PERVERSE EYEWEAR A mother’s glow is unrivaled. But the sun can be unbearable. Help your No. 1 avoid the glare with a pair of Perverse Toni Bologni aviators. Lightly tinted to perfection, the classic design and silhouette exude quiet style. No need to prove you are a star when you illuminate from within. From $60. perversesunglasses.com
MELANIE D A ring should be regal. Need we say more? Treat your favorite person in the world like an empress. Birds of paradise floral design elements and unique custom craftsmanship make the Empress collection by designer Melanie D a showstopper. One look at the brilliant mixing of 18k green gold and tourmaline will make Mom the talk of the town. Available on request, starting at $35,000. melanied.design
PHOTOS: © PERVERSE, © DEREK BLANKS, © EDELHEISS WINE, © COUTURE CAHSMERE
EDELHEISS WINE Warmed or chilled? Mom deserves a choice: Either way, this brilliant brand is 100 percent organic fortified wine. Hints of cinnamon, brandy and invigorating mixed spices make for a delicious indulgence. From $20. edelheiss-wine.com
COUTURE CASHMERE Trans-Atlantic commutes can be grueling; why not make the journey effortless and chic? Couture Cashmere is our culprit in designing the perfect tissue-soft, fur-trimmed shawl that mom will adore. The neutral leopard print lends functionality from day to evening attire. You may want to buy two, as this garment is a signature spoil — there is safety in numbers. From $495. kcccashmere.com
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spas
RAIN FOREST RETREAT Head to Honduras for holistic healing and rejuvenation. BY JOE BAUR
HOT STUFF:
Temazcal sauna PHOTO: © LODGE & SPA AT PICO BONITO
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INTERNATIONAL HEADLINES have rarely been kind to Honduras. There’s simply no getting around it. What people forget is that news is news because it’s surprising or unexpected. We may see certain headlines repeatedly, but these snapshots rarely reflect everyday life, and they certainly have little do with a place like Pico Bonito National Park in northern Honduras, where The Lodge & Spa at Pico Bonito has operated since 2000. I visited in 2016, landing on a steamy afternoon in San Pedro Sula. You may recognize that name from lists categorizing the world’s most dangerous cities. No, it’s not Tokyo — frequently ranked the world’s safest city — but it’s not as if Catrachos (Hondurans) are eyeing tourists at the airport. They have better things to do. Instead, coming in and out of San Pedro Sula was a breeze. I grabbed a baleada from the food court — a staple of the Honduran diet usually consisting of eggs and meat wrapped in a flour
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tortilla — and swiftly boarded the shuttle from The Lodge & Spa at Pico Bonito for an uneventful three-hour drive along the freeway to Pico Bonito National Park. Stepping out of the shuttle and onto the gravel paths, it’s easy to see upon first glance why National Geographic Traveler named this one of the world’s top 50 eco-lodges. Twenty-two cabins of approximately 400 square feet each surround the jungle property in a scene that mixes a rustic birder’s paradise with 5-star sensibilities. The highlight was, of course, the recently unveiled 3,675square-foot spa with rituals dating back to the pre-Hispanic indigenous population’s healing culture and traditions. Three circular cabins anchor the jungle space, used for individual or couple’s massages; a Vichy shower; and, my personal favorite, the temazcal sauna with an adjacent plunge pool. My experience kicked off at the temazcal sauna with the Gentle
Toucan offering. A young woman, the spa manager, walked a small group of travelers and me through the initial rituals to begin the experience and how to enter the sauna itself. Unlike modern saunas, the temazcal (the Nahuatl word for “house of heat”) variety is usually a domed structure, representing the womb of Mother Earth. The idea is you go in and come out reborn from the experience — sans the birth trauma, of course. While temazcals are typically constructed with volcanic rock, The Lodge & Spa at Pico Bonito appeared to take some modern design liberties on the dome. For instance, the entry was through a large, thick wooden door that reminded me of the kind I had seen across colonial Central America when I lived there just a year earlier. Antigua, Guatemala; and Suchitoto, El Salvador, came to mind. We removed our white robes (with swimsuits underneath) and were guided in carefully, one by one, shuffling in backwards to show our respect. Of course, if you show too much respect, you might come dangerously close to the hot pile of rocks in the middle, as I did. From there the instructions were simple: Sit and inhale the vapors through your nose and relax. As we did this, the door was closed behind us, shutting out the evening light. Our group took turns pouring water over the hot rocks and taking the three deep breaths while carefully hovering above the steam. If we felt so inclined, which I did, there was a small bowl with “therapeutic lavender-infused mud” from the area. When rubbed on skin, it becomes soap-like and runs smoothly across the body. None of this is usually my cup of tea, but I have to say I loved it. Within a short time I had a glistening layer of sweat and the relaxed, rhythmic heartbeat of someone in deep sleep. I’d lost track of time when the moment came to throw our robes back on and shuffle out of the sauna. Then it was onward to the outdoor shower to wash away the sweat and mud. Later in the evening I had the opportunity to enjoy a massage. Due to limited space and time, an agreeable traveler within our group and I shrugged our shoulders indifferently when asked to share the couple’s room. In retrospect, I’m glad I did, if only to get a genuine sense of how the massage affected someone else. Indeed, if his snores were any indication, the massage did the trick. As I said, this is not usually my scene, but if someone wants to spend an hour working out my kinks and making me feel incredible, more power to her. Give this hero an award. On this occasion, only the second professional massage of my life, I was matched with a quiet, young Catracha from the area. (Most of The Lodge’s staff are local hires from the La Ceiba area just 10
NATURAL ELEMENTS:
Vichy shower (above), and spa and temazcal (left) PHOTOS: © LODGE & SPA AT PICO BONITO
miles outside of the park on the Caribbean Sea.) The calming ambience coupled with her clearly skilled hands sold the experience. As in the temazcal, I had lost track of time when she murmured in Spanish, “You can get dressed now.” Meanwhile, my comrade in comfort remained out like a light. How his masseuse continued without giggling through his snores is beyond me, but it’s a testament to her professionalism. Admittedly, we all chuckled a bit when, as his session ended, she gently tapped him several times to wake him up and he snapped back to consciousness so hard his legs flailed backwards into the air and his head shot up as if someone just gave him a shot of adrenaline. Yet despite such a seemingly violent reaction, it didn’t appear to register as he smacked his lips together a couple of times, strained to open his eyelids and said, “Is it already over?”
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spa your n r a E y nce b e i r e exp ga akin t t s fir e to d hik e d i gu le evab i l e b Un . Falls
The Lodge & Spa at Pico Bonito Carretera A Tela La Ceiba, Honduras tel 504 2440 0388 picobonito.com
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golf
SINGAPORE SWING Stop for a round at Marina Bay Golf Course. BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER
ABOVE AND BEYOND: Canopy Tee PHOTO: © MARINA BAY GOLF COURSE
geotextile-layered faces. Avoid these bunkers at all costs — often the only OFTEN WHEN SWEEPING your way through Asia, ticking off destinaexit is sideways. tion after destination, you find yourself somewhere with a weekend to The pro shop can fit travelers with clubs, shoes and anything unwind between flights. On my most recent trip, Singapore happened required for a round. Marina Bay also includes a four-tier driving range, to be that weekend spot. Certainly Singapore has much to offer, but the one of the largest in Asia. If you can’t find the time for a day game, the city-state also boasts one of the best and most highly rated public golf course offers night golf Wednesday through Friday. courses in Asia. Not only is the course wellThe friendly staff is willing to help and makes your run and in good shape, but also it lies just 10 Marina Bay also includes a day comfortable. Shower facilities assure you can minutes from practically every hotel in town. four-tier driving range, one of get ready for your evening after a round. If you frequent any of the high-rises such as I teed up with Sei from Australia, who was the Marina Bay Sands Hotel (not associated the largest in Asia. moving for a job with Cisco; and two commodities with the course), you can clearly see the traders, Faruk from Connecticut and Al from the course, developed from reclaimed land, as U.K., both working in Singapore for extended periods. it stretches to the harbor, with the waiting cargo ships beyond. Wolfgang Puck’s Spago, where I celebrated my game afterward, offers a nice view. South African Phil Jacobs, who designed the world-famous Fancourt Links, the home of golf legend Ernie Els, put his talent as a links designer to the test at Marina Bay. The par-72 course measures nearly 7,200 yards, with one of the few par-6 holes in Asia and the only one in Singapore. Jacobs also placed 87 pot bunkers constructed with
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HOLE 1 | 384 YARDS, PAR 4
What a daunting view: 18 pot bunkers set up like land mines for your tee shot. Phil Jacobs must want to play with your mental control right from the start. The fairway is split between the first and 10th holes, so half the bunkers belong to each. Sei warned me to avoid the bunkers,
and I landed just at the top of one near a giant clump of ornamental grass. Sei did not heed his own advice, landing in a deep bunker. We both took safe shots to get back in play — me dancing among the grasses to get my footing and Sei swinging like a madman to lift his ball high and out of the trap. Both Al and Faruk seemed amused until Al dumped his second shot squarely into the water in front of the green. My shot landed on the back for a long and tricky putt for bogey.
HOLE 4 | 716 YARDS, PAR 6
There is no question: One of the novelties of the course is its par 6. It usually requires four shots, but we had a surprise birdie in the group. The hole is set as an ever-soslight dogleg right, with the green tucked in and protected by a grouping of trees and a pond on its right. I took a straight drive, favoring the right but avoiding the sprinkling of geotextile-faced pot bunkers — I counted five on that side. Unfortunately, Sei landed in one and had a difficult shot out, hitting the face, which reacts like concrete when struck. From here I laid on a 3-wood, again favoring the right and landing on a precarious slope of the pond about 120 yards from the green. Al and Faruk struggled on the left side, but Faruk’s wild shot from the left clipped a tree leaf and landed on the green in three. “Saved by the tree!” I proclaimed. My awkward shot to the green dribbled in front, followed by a chip on and one putt for par. Faruk made his putt for birdie to the cheers of all.
HOLE 8 | 497 YARDS, PAR 4
A difficult hole to par: You need two long and accurate shots on this hole, dubbed “the most difficult on the front nine.” The opening to the fairway appears a little narrow, so I took all the given room on the left and carved a drive, nearly clipping one of the massive night golf lamp posts. I landed free of harm near the left fairway bunker. Al and Faruk slammed two lovely straight drives, while poor Sei hit yet another fairway bunker on the right. He got a lot of sand practice. A lone bunker right in front of the green caught Al’s fairway approach. I carded a double bogey, a disappointment on the No. 1-handicapped hole.
HOLE 13 | 131 YARDS, PAR 3
This par 3 features a lovely island green. Faruk, having lived a few years in Houston, had his trusty “chipper” in his bag. A chipper,
which might be deemed an illegal club, has about the same loft as an 8-iron but is heavily weighted. Average golfers find chippers a little easier to use versus a wedge. Faruk said this club always goes straight, and with a swing he squarely landed on the back of the green. I had never seen a chipper used in a full swing, and I asked to give it a try, ending with a similar result — except my ball rolled to the back of the green and into the water behind. Al took a nice, easy 9-iron to the green and putted in for a birdie, while Faruk carded a par and I a bogey.
TRAPPED: Sei in one of the pot bunkers on the first hole PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER
HOLE 18 | 574 YARDS, PAR 5
Having lost the boys on the final hole due to a little storm, leaving a significant clearing between the forward groups, I drove three different drives to practice my skills and repeated this for my fairway wood shot. The first fairway smack took a slightly left trajectory over two fairway sand traps. The second was just the opposite, right but clear of the right bunker, and the third was my best hit of the day, down the center. As a purist, I played the first ball, about 100 yards from the center of the green. A sand wedge placed the ball about a foot to the cup for a shocking (the previous group were still packing their carts) but satisfying finale at Marina Bay Golf Course.
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Marina Bay Golf Course 80 Rhu Cross Singapore 437437 tel 65 6345 7788 mbgc.com.sg
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chefs
IN THE SPIRIT Executive Chef Greg Lewis brings Spanish inspiration to The Distillery in London. BY KIMBERLY KROL
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WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR COOKING/ MENUS? San Sebastián and Bilbao, obviously; London is a fantastic food city as well. I spent my honeymoon last year along the Amalfi Coast in Italy, and I love the region’s simple outlook and respect for food, much like the Basques. WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? I love Rick Stein; he has a huge respect for ingredients rather than technique, which is similar to my approach. WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE, AND HOW? I was lucky enough to cook at a 1-star restaurant, Pool Court, under a chap called Jeff Baker. He was a hard
taskmaster, to say the very least, but his level of organization still influences my setup every day. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? Tough, but probably London — you can find anything you fancy here. WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? I think we will see a return of fine dining again. There has been a long period of mediocrity and people attempting to recreate the “simple done well” philosophy and often failing. I think people want to be treated to a great experience again. GinTonica at The Distillery 186 Portobello Road London, England W11 1LA tel 44 20 3034 2233 the-distillery.london/gintonica
PHOTOS: © THE DISTILLERY
IT WAS A LOVE OF SPORT, not food, which brought Chef Greg Lewis, originally from Christchurch, New Zealand, to England. In 2005, after visiting Leeds to play in the Rugby League, he permanently relocated and began his U.K. culinary career at the city’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, Pool Court, under the direction of renowned restaurateur Michael Gill. Lewis’ reputation began to grow as he became a trailblazer in the culinary revolution of Leeds with Pintura Kitchen and Bar in March 2015. His unique take on Spanish pinxtos from the Basque region using locally sourced Yorkshire and Basque ingredients won over critics and locals and set a new standard for dining in the city. In 2016 the restaurant won runner-up Restaurant of the Year from Observer Food Monthly. Today Lewis serves as executive chef for The Distillery, a unique, multimillion-dollar development on London’s Portobello Road. The multilevel experience, also home to the Portobello Road Gin distillery, includes a private dining room, boutique lodging, GinTonica, The Resting Room bar and The Ginstitute Experience, offering an immersive gin history session. GinTonica proves the perfect pairing for Lewis, as it celebrates Spain’s love affair with the spirit. Amid Spanish décor Lewis presents a menu of small, tapas-style plates blending classic Spanish dishes, imported Spanish produce and seasonal British ingredients.
be rewarded. be one. Earn and redeem miles and points across all member airlines. As a oneworld traveler, wherever you go, your rewards follow. Learn more at oneworld.com
an alliance of the world's leading airlines working as one. airberlin American Airlines British Airways Cathay Pacific Finnair Iberia Japan Airlines LATAM Malaysia Airlines Qantas Qatar Airways Royal Jordanian S7 Airlines SriLankan Airlines
oneworld benefits are available only to passengers on scheduled flights that are both marketed and operated by a oneworld member airline (marketed means that there must be a oneworld member airline’s flight number on your ticket). For information on oneworld, visit www.oneworld.com. airberlin, American Airlines, British Airways, Cathay Pacific, Finnair, Iberia, Japan Airlines, LATAM Airlines, Malaysia Airlines, Qantas, Qatar Airways, Royal Jordanian, S7 Airlines, SriLankan Airlines and oneworld are trademarks of their respective companies. LATAM Airlines (Paraguay) is currently not a part of oneworld. MAY 2017
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cruising
PRIVATE ISLES Belize to Bahamas, discover the perfect place to jump ship. CRUISE LINES COMPETE to outdo each other with the most extravagant amenities, luxuries and resort activities aboard their ships these days, and they do the same in certain ports by stopping at their own lavishly outfitted private islands. While Paul Gauguin Cruises calls at a private isle in French Polynesia and MSC Cruises recently opened a proprietary port near Abu Dhabi, most cruise lines established their exclusive hideaways in the Caribbean. Leased or owned outright by a cruise line, a private island in the Caribbean provides passengers a chance to use a full range of recreational facilities ashore unfettered by the hordes of hawkers and tourists found in most ports of call. For many passengers, a cruise line’s private island is the highlight of a sailing. Not everything on a private island is free, however. Cabanas, sports gear, island tours and some activities do come at an additional cost. Norwegian Cruise Line pioneered the private island concept in 1977 with the purchase of Great Stirrup Cay in The Bahamas. Upgraded and enhanced this year, Great Stirrup Cay added a new bar and grill, party room, spa, basketball and volleyball courts, zipline, sculpture garden for snorkelers and 22 air-conditioned luxury beach villas. Not to be outdone, Holland America Line’s private island in The Bahamas, Half Moon Cay, added three new beachfront “satellite” bars, a rebuilt entertainment stage, glass-bottom kayaks, stand-up paddle boards and new facilities for its popular horseback riding tours. Disney Cruise Line’s private island, Castaway Cay, also in The Bahamas, offers separate beaches for children, teens and adults, as well as an underwater snorkeling trail with submerged Disney statues. Princess Cruises has its own private Bahamian retreat, too — Princess Cays, with a beach barbecue, crafts market, water sports, boat rides and cabanas. Royal Caribbean International equipped two private islands for the exclusive use of its guests. CoCo Cay in The Bahamas has three fine beaches, an aqua park, parasailing and an inwater trampoline for kids. Labadee in Haiti offers Royal Carib-
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BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER
PRIVATE PORTS:
Royal Caribbean guests ride the world’s longest overwater zipline on Labadee in Haiti (above), and Norwegian Cruise Line takes passengers to Harvest Caye in Belize (left). PHOTOS: © ROYAL CARIBBEAN, © NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE
bean passengers private access to the world’s longest overwater zipline. The newest private Caribbean getaway, Norwegian Cruise Line’s Harvest Caye, is home to Belize’s only cruise-ship pier. Passengers are treated to the full array of private island facilities, from ziplines to cabanas, along with a crafts market, butterfly garden, water sports lagoon and guided eco-tours. Of course, a private island is not for everyone. Such ports of call can’t offer the cultural experiences or the shopping and dining possibilities of a Nassau or a Freeport. But curmudgeons who stay behind are free to enjoy the run of the ship, with uncrowded pools, lounges and dining spots to themselves. So either way, on board or on an exclusive beach, a cruise line’s private island is a port to savor.
ion nat i t s de New SC t: M ated aler s sl i s ise the Cru lete p m o est to c bigg s ’ ld wor land e is t a priv t in men p o l i e dev imin B n . 8, o mas 201 aha B he in T
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In an attempt to eliminate registered sex offenders from driving, Massachusetts implemented strict background checks for Uber and Lyft drivers. globaltravelerusa.com/massachusetts-adds-stringent-background-checks-for-uberlyft-drivers/ Just in time for the 2018 ski season, Four Seasons announced the opening of its first luxury mountain resort in France. bit.ly/2lPOw2b
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feature
Free to Roam A growing workforce of digital nomads leaves the office behind.
IS THERE ANYWHERE truly remote in the modern world? Here’s somewhere: Juma Lodge. For two nights in this rustic stilted hotel on a tributary of the Brazilian Amazon, our laptops and cellphones were useless. Without outside distraction, we had no choice but to immerse ourselves in the immediate environment. Such moments, such places, are increasingly rare. It is ever more difficult to throw off the clutches of communication. The demands of the outside world now follow travelers everywhere, even into the air and across oceans. Night and day, almost wherever we are in the world, we can be reached. There is a positive flipside. Thanks to telecommunications, we are no longer tied to an office in a fixed location. Businesses operate with co-workers living and working in separate cities, even on separate continents, and individuals take their work with them to all corners of the globe. These digital nomads have thrown off the drudgery of daily routine, putting quality of life above all else. I’m one of them. I am writing these words in a café beside the Mediterranean. I was slow to grasp the possibilities of global interconnectivity. For three decades, between travels, I dutifully returned to my home base in England to endure lousy weather and a high cost of living. In 2016 I realized I could just as easily be based elsewhere and so relocated to Javea (aka Xàbia), a small town on the coast of Spain. I wasn’t the first to pick this particular place. On initial research, I discovered the locale already offered infrastructure and dedicated services for foreigners seeking to make a life outside the nine-to-five rat race.
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PHOTO: © ROSSHELEN | DREAMSTIME.COM
BY RICHARD NEWTON
PHOTO: © ANTONIO GUILLEM | DREAMSTIME.COM
Javea Business Hub, for example, is a co-working center that provides individual workspaces with super-fast internet connection for $4.20 per hour or $21 per day, as well as boardroom and video facilities. In addition, you get the benefit of networking with like-minded people. Alternatively, for the cost of a drink, plenty of waterfront cafés offer free WiFi, such as the one I’m sitting at now, working in the fresh air with the sea lapping on the nearby pebble beach. Taking the digital nomad lifestyle to the next level, Sun and Co., located in a modernized 19th-century house amid the labyrinth of narrow streets in Javea’s lovely old town, is a residential co-working community in which a private room costs $47 per night for up to a week, or $34 per night for stays of longer than a month. It’s particularly suited to those who enjoy a collegiate environment. The house offers communal living spaces and a shared kitchen, with two local hosts to keep things running smoothly and to set up free-time activities such as bike rides and sea kayaking excursions.
For many of the location-independent workers staying at Sun and Co., Javea is just one stop on an open-ended journey taking advantage of similar facilities from Costa Rica to Thailand, Estonia to South Africa. Not every line of work lends itself to this way of life. Most digital nomads are self-employed and work either in the software industry (computer coding, web design, software support), in the creative sector (writing, graphic design), teaching English online or in various forms of consultancy. A sizeable percentage of early digital nomads made their living producing websites or video channels chronicling their lifestyle. That market has been saturated and is no longer sustainable. Similarly, any business plan that relies on providing location-independent services to fellow digital nomads will struggle in the face of well-established competition. The trick is to adapt a real-world career into one that can operate anywhere. The next task is to choose where. Time zones may prove a limiting factor. If you’re providing services to clients in the
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e Som ike ts, l r e p ex ur rene p e r ent ter Pie els, Lev ict e pred ill b w e ther llion 1 bi ote rem kers wor ide ldw r o w . 035 by 2
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United States, basing yourself in Europe or Asia would involve working unsocial hours. There are also legal practicalities that vary from country to country. Which type of visa will you require? Are there restrictions on the kind of work you are permitted to do in your chosen country? How will you be paid, and where will you pay taxes? One way to negotiate the myriad challenges is to link with other digital nomads for advice. As increasing numbers of people are drawn to the way of life, the community is becoming more focused, with dedicated online forums and even formal conferences, such as the DNX Digital Nomad Conference, held this year in Lisbon, Portugal, Sept. 9–10. The same organization also runs regular 10-day DNX Camps at venues around the world (next up: Lemnos, Greece), at which up to 50 digital nomads share experiences and trade advice while co-working in an exotic location. While for many digital nomads the great lure is absolute independence, others prefer a degree of structure. For them, there are several communal travel programs in which like-minded co-workers tour the world on a pre-determined itinerary. Remote Year, for instance, offers a 12-month itinerary for up to 75 people,
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each paying $2,000 per month after a $5,000 down payment. The 2017 itinerary takes in England, Croatia, Malaysia, Colombia and Morocco, among other destinations. Another company, Hacker Paradise, runs three-month programs for up to 200 people. This year’s destinations will include Lima, Peru, and Palermo, Italy. The cost of the Italian sojourn is $750 per week for a short-term stay (two weeks) or $545 per week for a stay of a month or more. These programs tend to be pitched to the under-40s. For those of us outside the target demographic, they provide inspiration for using the many benefits of global interconnectivity to fit our own needs. For the first decade of my career, I expected to be incommunicado for days — sometimes weeks — whenever I traveled. Any visit to Africa, for instance, put me beyond reach as soon as I left the major cities, and within the cities exorbitant hotel rates for international calls limited me. The extent to which the world has changed sunk in last year when I sat on the veranda of the bar at Desert Quiver Camp in the Namib Desert, Namibia. With the great red wilderness stretching empty to the horizon, I took it for granted I could check
emails, upload photographs and make Facetime calls. That realization was the final impetus that propelled me to Spain. True remoteness is becoming much more difficult to achieve. Our two nights in Juma Lodge, deep in the Amazon, were a throwback to a simpler, more adventurous era. Severed from the outside world and stripped of our ability to relay our experiences in real time, we absorbed our surroundings fully. No instant selfies, no emails or text messages, no Facebook updates. Memorable experiences were committed to memory: encounters with monkeys and caimans and sloths. We enjoyed freewheeling conversations in the lodge’s stilted dining room with the night sounds reverberating outside and our phones silent. The journey back to civilization took three hours. The transition began at about the midway point. First one phone trilled, then another, then another. By the time we traversed the Amazon River itself, aiming for the hazy skyline of Manaus, we were fully reconnected to the world, with all the disadvantages and advantages that brings.
FAR AND AWAY: Juma Lodge
PHOTOS: Š JUMA LODGE
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hotel update | MARRIOTT
Step by Step With an expanded global footprint, Marriott sets a measured pace for change. BY LAURA DAILY
riott w Mar The ne ts for accoun one imately x o r p p a . en U.S in sev ooms. hotel r
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AFTER TWO DECADES, my favorite aunt announced she was planning to remarry and blend her small family with her fiancé’s large, extended one. Her daughter’s reaction? “Mom, I love you. He’s a great guy. His kinfolk seem nice, and I know you’ll be happy, but let’s cut to the chase ... what does this mean for me?” My aunt’s response: “We’ll just have to wait and see.” Like my cousin, business travelers want to know how Marriott International’s acquisition of Starwood Hotels & Resorts will affect them. They have questions, lots of questions. And the answers from both Marriott execs and travel industry insiders, for the most part, are “Wait and see.” Here’s what we do know about the “new” Marriott. Marriott is the largest hotel company in the world, with more than 6,000 properties and nearly 1.2 million rooms in 120 countries. No matter where you go, you should be able to find a Marriott hotel. The portfolio now includes luxury brands The Ritz-Carlton, St. Regis and Bvlgari Hotels & Resorts. Westin, MAY 2017
Renaissance and Autograph Collection occupy an evolving lifestyle category. Premium brands such as Marriott Hotels and Sheraton anchor the portfolio. And there are new, fun, accessible experiences at Moxy Hotels, AC Hotels and Aloft. Bottom line: The new Marriott allows travelers to find a property that fits their budgets, lifestyles and preferences. “But our focus is not on bigger, rather, better,” says Tim Sheldon, president, Marriott Caribbean and Latin America (CALA). “We have tremendous talent at our properties who ensure that our guests receive world-class service and enjoy unforgettable experiences. New brands in our portfolio and new markets mean more experiences for our customer.” Sheldon adds that thanks to the merger, Marriott has been able to add new markets. Argentina, for example, where Marriott had not been operational for several years, is now again a Marriott destination with Sheraton, The Luxury Collection and the newly introduced Tribute brands. And expansion continues to be
a priority. “Marriott has a robust pipeline of new projects for the next five years and plans to open 37 new properties in CALA in 2017. We will continue to increase our footprint across the region, with a special focus on Mexico,” he says. In December 2016 The Luxury Collection added five flagship properties to the brand: The Wellesley and The Westbury in London; Hôtel de Berri in Paris; Cristallo Resort & Spa in Cortina, Italy; and The Alexander in Yerevan, Armenia. To Matthew Carroll, vice president, Marriott Hotels, the merger kick-started the flagship Marriott Hotels brand to elevate the guest experience. “We’re renovating and deploying new guestrooms around the world to give them a more contemporary feel,” he says. For example, many properties converted tub/shower combos to walk-in showers and replaced carpet with hard-surface floors. Marriott is also pushing innovation. Last October the company unveiled what it called the world’s first hotel in “live beta,” M Beta at Charlotte Marriott City Center. “Beta buttons” throughout the hotel enable guests to instantly give feedback on amenities and concepts. Among the test features: personal greeters in lieu of traditional front desk check-in; access to 1,000 on-demand workouts on screens in the fitness studio; and a coffeehouse with locally sourced coffee. Marriott’s plans to evolve, sign more franchise agreements and open new properties are no surprise. So let’s deal with the million-dollar question: What is happening to the loyalty program?
On day one — Sept. 23, 2016 — as the ink was drying on the acquisition papers, Marriott announced loyalty members could link their Marriott Rewards and Starwood Preferred Guest accounts, obtaining instant Elite status matching and unlimited points transfer between accounts. Now Marriott Rewards and The Ritz-Carlton Rewards members can use points to travel to destinations such as the Maldives, Santoríni in Greece and Bora-Bora, while SPG members have access to popular locales such as Aruba, Tuscany’s Serchio Valley and Kruger National Park in South Africa. They also gain exclusive access to money-can’t-buy events and experiences in music, sports (including professional football, baseball, basketball and tennis) and entertainment such as Broadway shows, an increasingly valuable perk, according to Thom Kozik, vice president, global loyalty, Marriott International. “Our members increasingly value experiences over points. Whether they get to throw out the first pitch at a World Series game or attend a private concert with Demi Lovato and DNCE, the combined partnership of Marriott Rewards and SPG means we can deepen the emotional relationship with them,” he says. “We are giving members once-in-a-lifetime access to pursue their passions in ways they could never have imagined and that our competitors cannot match.” Also, when members book stays directly with Marriott, they can use the Marriott mobile app to check in and check out,
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LUXURY BY DESIGN:
The Westbury in London (far left); The Wellesley London exterior and The Alexander in Yerevan, Armenia (middle); and Cristallo Resort & Spa (right) PHOTOS: © MARRIOTT
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INSIDE AND OUT:
JW Marriott Panama (top left), AC Hotel Queretaro Antea (top right), and Renaissance São Paulo (bottom) PHOTOS: © MARRIOTT INTERNATIONAL CARIBBEAN & LATIN AMERICA
MARRIOTT INTERNATIONAL Demographic: With an everevolving portfolio of innovative brands ranging from upper midscale to luxury, Marriott attracts a wide range of travelers seeking attentive service, exceptional amenities, a commitment to excellence, in-depth local connections and preeminent loyalty programs. Offerings: Marriott operates 6,000-plus properties worldwide, offering 1.2 million rooms in 120 countries. Guests can opt to join three loyalty programs: Marriott Rewards, The RitzCarlton Rewards and Starwood Preferred Guest.
BRANDS: Luxury: St. Regis, W, The Luxury Collection, The Ritz-Carlton/The Ritz-Carlton Reserve, Bvlgari Hotels & Resorts, JW Marriott, EDITION Upper Upscale: Westin, Le Méridien, Sheraton, Tribute Portfolio, Autograph Collection Hotels, Renaissance Hotels, Marriott Hotels, Delta Hotels by Marriott, Marriott Executive Apartments, Marriott Vacation Club, Gaylord Hotels, Design Hotels
receive an alert when their room is ready, as well as make service requests directly to participating hotels using Mobile Requests before, during and after their stays. Similarly, SPG’s mobile app allows guests to use SPG Keyless to check in, get their room numbers and unlock the room doors using their smartphones or Apple Watch at participating hotels. “For the business traveler who was a Marriott customer, this is a positive. You get new properties to earn and burn points and gain a more global and more upscale footprint. For those loyal to Starwood, there is skepticism,” says Gary Leff, author, ViewFromTheWing.com. “Marriott is known for being more rewarding on spend, Starwood more rewarding to Elite guests with more robust suite upgrades and breakfast perks. Which will get adopted by Marriott is anyone’s guess.” Overall, Marriott made a lot of early moves to allay the
Upscale: Four Points by Sheraton, Element, Aloft Hotels, AC Hotels by Marriott, Courtyard, SpringHill Suites, Residence Inn Upper Midscale: Moxy Hotels, Fairfield Inn & Suites, Protea Hotels by Marriott, TownePlace Suites
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fears of Starwood members. As Leff points out, the ultimate goal of Marriott International is to become the only brand and only loyalty program a traveler needs. “A loyalty program is how a consumer experiences a chain as a whole and can ultimately be the reason to stay or switch brands,” he says. For Marriott, it’s a long transition process. The company has to review and negotiate with suppliers, credit card companies, airlines, rental car companies and rewards partners. Wanting to avoid the technical snafus that plagued airline mergers, Marriott is taking it step by step as it upgrades and merges its reservations, loyalty and operations backend software. Nothing in the immediate term is likely to radically change, and Marriott doesn’t want to over-promise and under-deliver. Moves will be revealed in the next six to nine months. We’ll just have to wait and see.
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mice | MADRID
Avant-Garde Madrid leads the meetings scene with exceptional flair. BY ALLISON VOIGTS dens, nd gar a s k r 172 pa eet With uare f q s 4 9 ts 1 tant. d boas inhabi Madri r e p e c en spa of gre SHOW TIME:
Centro de Congresos Príncipe Felipe’s Auditorium Goya Febrero at the Madrid Marriott Auditorium Hotel (top), and the hotel’s reception lobby (bottom) PHOTOS: © MARRIOTT
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AS THE NEWEST MEMBER of the BestCities Global Alliance, Madrid has lots to celebrate. Already ranked by the International Congress and Convention Association as the fifth city in the world for international event organizing, Madrid just boosted its MICE profile with a renewed commitment to hosting by being welcomed into the alliance. BestCities board chair Jonas Wilstrup calls Spain’s capital one of the best-equipped international conference destinations in the world. “The combination of the exceptional work by the Madrid Convention Bureau, supported by the city’s premier meeting venues, modern infrastructure and rich cultural offering, make it the ideal candidate to join the BestCities family,” Wilstrup said. Long Spain’s international business center, Madrid now hosts more than 40 percent of foreign companies in the country, including 2,000 multinationals. Its influence and location mean visitors can reach nearly every corner of the country with ease — high-speed AVE trains connect to Barcelona and Seville in less than three hours. And it’s no wonder the lure of this meeting destination keeps growing when the city has so much to offer: Its 20,000 bars, 13 Michelin-starred restau-
HISTORIC HOTEL: InterContinental Madrid entrance (top) and meeting room (bottom) PHOTOS: © INTERCONTINENTAL MADRID
UNIQUE VENUES The Madrid Convention Bureau maintains an English-language website full of instructions on how to make the most of your MICE visit, including event-focused maps, detailed information on venues, and support services for planning your event. esmadrid.com/mcb
rants and nearly 3,000 hours of sunshine annually add up to a famously high quality of life. Amid four consecutive years of record-breaking tourism — last year Spain was the third-most visited country in the world with more than 75 million tourists — the capital also experienced a surge in business travelers to its state-of-the-art facilities. Its premier convention center, Centro de Congresos Príncipe Felipe, includes a leisure center with paddle courts, swimming pool, gym, sauna and music lounge that complement its meeting area of 166,840 square feet. Located on the ground floor of the Madrid Marriott Auditorium Hotel, the center boasts 56 meeting rooms and an auditorium with a capacity of 2,000. However, 2016’s World Travel Award Best MICE Hotel in Spain might be your best bet. InterContinental Madrid was the first international hotel in Europe in 1953, opening in a remodeled 19thcentury palace owned by a marquis. With original floors, marble tables, mirrors, lamps, fireplaces and
other furnishings, it preserves the old-world magnetism that drew Hollywood’s biggest stars during its Golden Age. Nowadays, it is one of the most luxurious sites to host an event, with 15 meeting rooms — a third of which were renovated just last year — that implement cuttingedge technology like e-proposals and 3D interactive floor plans. Its Sunday brunch and Art Deco ballroom that accommodates 600 people are famous among Madrileños. “InterContinental Madrid and its more than 60 years of history have maintained a strict commitment to this sector since its beginnings,” said Manrique Rodríguez, manager, InterContinental Madrid. “It is vital for us to continue to connect with the business traveler and customer, as day by day they evolve and expect different types of services.” The Westin Palace Madrid also boasts ample meeting space including 20 venues, the largest of which measures 6,297 square feet with a capacity of 800. Built by King Alfonso XIII in 1912, its Belle Époque style culminates in a beautiful glass dome. Located amid Madrid’s triumvirate of world-class art museums — the Prado, the Reina Sofia and the Thyssen-Bornemisza — The Westin is perfect for any cultural event in a city that’s known for its vibrant cultural offerings.
If you’re looking to capture your attendees’ imaginations, the Museo ThyssenBornemisza lets you pair your event with an add-on private tour of its world-class galleries at a time when the museum is closed to the general public. After the tour, your guests can enjoy a cocktail party in one of the comfortable reception rooms. museothyssen.org The IFEMA Convenciones y Congresos, with fairgrounds in the city center, welcomed 2.3 million visitors last year. Its new space, The Catwalk, ideal for dynamic events where you can surprise the audience, seats 720 people and provides additional space for setting up a cocktail area, a product launch or anything else you can imagine. ifema.es/convencionesycongresos_01 Kinépolis Madrid cinema complex offers one of the best settings for audiovisual presentations. It features 25 screening rooms/amphitheaters with capacities ranging from 200 to 964 attendees plus three reception spaces accommodating 170 to 1,500 standing or 85 to 800 seated guests. Perhaps most exciting is the opportunity to host your event in the city’s soccer stadium, Estadio Santiago Bernabéu, home of Real Madrid C.F. With seating for from two to 80,000, the choice is yours. realmadrid.com/en/santiago-berna beu-stadium
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THE HAMPTONS
destination one | MARRAKECH
Moroccan Renaissance Marrakech thrives at the intersection of antiquity and advancement. BY ALLIE MOORE
STREETS AND ALLEYS: Muslim woman walking through a narrow street PHOTO: © PETER WOLLINGA | DREAMSTIME .COM
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THE NORTH AFRICAN NATION of Morocco remains devoted to tradition amid a sea of international conferences and an evolving entrepreneurial spirit. From the scurry of souks in Marrakech to the camel-lined deserts of the North Sahara, Morocco is not a typical travel target for those seeking innovation and modernity. Instead, many visitors to Morocco long to escape the frenzy of the present day in which technology, alcohol consumption and excess have become the vices du jour. Morocco’s third-largest city, Marrakech, is also one of the country’s most visited thanks
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in part to its slow and subtle adaptation to the Western world. The bewitching locale is peppered with amenities and the comforts of progress, where visitors can enjoy the juxtaposition of the thriving city with the ancient world. At the same time, Marrakech rests at the forefront of global issues such as climate change, technology and transportation, attracting industry leaders from all over the world. In fall 2016 Marrakech hosted COP22, the United Nations Climate Change Conference, where action was the focus as the plans from the Paris Climate Agreement — developed a year prior — were revisited. Participants at the Marrakech talks pushed agendas
COMING AND GOING U.S. citizens must have a valid passport that does not expire until six months after the entry date. Visas are not required for stays up to 90 days.
OFFICIAL LANGUAGE Arabic, French
TIMELESS TRADITIONS: Vibrant colors of Marrakech represented in handmade shoes for sale in the Médina (top), handmade brown clay tajins for steaming food (bottom left) and a Berber man pouring traditional mint tea for a guest (right) PHOTOS: © PETER WOLLINGA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © KUZYN | DREAMSTIME.COM
LODGING LA MAMOUNIA With views of the Atlas Mountains, this hotel-palace coalesces the comfort of a Moroccan home with royal luxuries. Moroccan aesthetic abounds from the interior courtyards to the full-service spa. Avenue Bab Jdid $$$$$ MÖVENPICK HOTEL MANSOUR EDDAHBI Inspired by the visions of the Saadian sultan with the same name, this hotel exudes power and leadership, with a direct connection to the Palais des Congrès convention center.
forward, hinging on investing in clean energy and technology by some of the world’s largest corporations. At the conclusion of the conference, 200 countries conceived the Marrakech Action Proclamation that even further underscores the need for alternative sources of energy, with the goal of enacting swift changes by 2018, ahead of the original deadline of 2020. Morocco is the only African nation (and non-European nation) to grace the top 10 list of Germanwatch’s Climate Change Performance Index. A few internal initiatives for a cleaner environment include the eventual introduction of electric cars as well as Africa’s first bike-sharing program, which rolled out in conjunction with the climate conference last November.
Sustainable energy is not the only energy-focused item on Morocco’s agenda. In October Marrakech will host GeoAfrica 2017, a conference centered on geosynthetics and sustainable development throughout Africa. Attendees of the conference plan to discuss using energy-efficient methods to construct and enhance the continent’s infrastructure and will focus on the use of geosynthetics with regard to waste management, agricultural endeavors and environmental protection. Marrakech’s attention to its own infrastructure and development is evident, from the teeming Médina souks to the royal heads of state. In December King Mohammed VI instituted a rehabilitation project to restore the city’s main tourist attraction: the ancient Médina, a centuries-old
Avenue Mohammed VI, Hivernage $$$ RIAD KNIZA MARRAKECH This 18th-century riad houses 11 guestrooms and a traditional hammam where you can scrub away life’s worries. Sample mint tea, a Moroccan tradition, on the sunlit terrace. 34 Derb l’Hotel, Bab Doukala $$$
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MOROCCAN BLUES:
sprawling outdoor marketplace where visitors and locals shop, bargain and ogle handmade merchandise. The comprehensive project will focus on not only reviving various debilitated elements but also maintaining the Médina’s historic heritage, the character of which visitors travel thousands of miles to experience. The end results of the project will not only appeal to the senses of visitors but also attend to the daily needs of the artisans who work throughout the Médina’s corridors. Carpenters, coppersmiths, weavers and other craftspeople rely on their stalls as sources of income and economic contribution. King Mohammed VI’s plans contribute to his goal of making Marrakech a “City of Permanent Renaissance,” one that improves the living and working conditions of Marrakech’s own and, in turn, invites international visitors to revel in its authentic spirit. As Morocco moves into the present, negotiations have begun between the nation and China Railway to construct a high-speed rail to connect Marrakech with the coastal city of Agadir, a journey of approximately 162 miles. Morocco’s rail system, ONCF, signed agreements with China Railway to engineer and design the rail network that, by 2018, could potentially spread to other locations throughout Morocco. Marrakech’s Menara Airport endured a recent makeover of its own with the introduction of a 600,000-square-foot terminal that will increase aircraft slots by 12 and welcome an annual capacity of 9 million passengers, up from the
(Left to right) Blue sky over the airport in Marrakech; and Jardin Majorelle’s entrance fountain, courtyard, and blue square fountain PHOTOS: © IRABEL8 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © PIPA100 | DREAMSTIME.COM, © PRAPHAB LOUILARPPRASERT | DREAMSTIME.COM, © DARREN HOWE | DREAMSTIME.COM
JUST THE FACTS
Time zone: GMT Phone code: Country code: 212 City code: 44 Currency: Moroccan dirham Key industries: Automotive parts, phosphate mining and processing, aerospace, food processing, leather goods, textiles, construction, energy, tourism
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recent year’s 3 million visitors. In March Air France introduced thrice-weekly routes (Wednesday, Friday and Sunday) from Paris’ Charles de Gaulle Airport to Marrakech, and 16 trips per week will be available from Paris’ Orly Airport, enhancing access from the French capital to the Francophone nation. On the artistic side, Marrakech proves a photographer’s dream, a stunning landscape of color, angles and action all ripe for capture by the lens and the imagination. For centuries artists have traveled to the Moroccan city for inspiration — among them famed French designer Yves Saint Laurent, who frequently stayed in a villa in Marrakech. A museum dedicated to the French fashion designer, scheduled to open in September, will lure lovers of his innovative vision to the stunningly sensual Jardin Majorelle (Majorelle Garden), where his ashes were scattered after his death in 2008. Situated among the botanical gardens just outside the city center, the 43,000-square-foot Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech will house 5,000 articles of the fashion icon’s haute couture clothing; 15,000 accessories; and antiquated sketches. In the same fashionable vein, English designer Jasper Conran has also chosen to make his mark in the Moroccan city. After designing ensembles for the likes of Princess Diana, Conran transformed a 19th-century riad into a luxury hotel. Five suites comprise L’Hôtel Marrakech and surround a central courtyard with a private pool, fruit trees and a fountain.
CHECKING IN WITH HANANE EL MRABET-EL HADI
Director of Communications, Jardin Majorelle, Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech Where are you from, and how long have you worked at Jardin Majorelle? I was born and grew up in Châteauroux, France, and I have dual citizenship (French and Moroccan). I have worked at Jardin Majorelle since September 2016. How has tourism to the city changed in the past 10 years? What has been the catalyst for change? Tourism in Morocco managed to resist the amalgamations linked to the war in Syria, the emergence of the Islamic State, the assassination of Hervé Gourdel in Algeria, the proliferation of the Ebola virus and the Bardo attack in Tunisia. Morocco is the most stable country politically and socially in the region. We have faith in the local authorities to perpetuate a climate of stability and peace. The influence of the international context on tourism and the Moroccan economy remains considerable.
What effect will the new Musée Yves Saint Laurent have on Marrakech’s tourism sector? The Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech is located in the Rue Yves Saint Laurent, next door to the Jardin Majorelle, which receives more than 700,000 visitors each year. It will be a real crossroads of multicultural exchanges for art professionals as well as amateurs, fashion lovers, artists of all kinds and Moroccan and international visitors. What can you tell us about the museum that may interest our readers? This new building with a total area of 43,000 square feet is more than just a museum. Designed by Studio KO, it includes a permanent exhibition space of 4,300 square feet devoted to the work of Yves Saint Laurent in a scenography by Christophe Martin; a temporary exhibition hall of 1,600 square feet; an auditorium with 130 seats; a coffee shop; and a library of 5,000 books whose general line contains a historical background on modern Morocco before and after its independence.
DINING BÔ-ZIN Morocco meets the Orient at this sexy haunt. Live music rings through the palm trees as diners share Thai-style croquettes, couscous and briouates (puff pastries of cheese and spinach). Douar Lahna, Route de l’Ourika 3,5 Km $$$ LE MARRAKCHI Come for the simply authentic Moroccan menu and romantic ambience, stay for the stunning views and nightly belly dancing show. Bonus: Alcohol is served. 52 Rue des Banques $$$$ THE RED HOUSE RESTAURANT Elegance reigns in the restaurant within The Red House guest palace. Pastillas (Moroccan meat pies) stuffed with pigeon and almonds are served alongside harira (classic Moroccan soup). Avenue El Yarmouk & Rue Abdelaziz El Malzouzi $$$
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INFO TO GO
Menara Airport, approximately four miles from the center of the city, serves Marrakech. From the airport take a petit taxi to the city, but be sure to negotiate the fare before you agree to ride: Fares to Marrakech should not cost more than 70 dirham (about $7) during the day or 100 dirham (about $10) at night. Alternatively, take a 20-minute bus ride on Bus 11 (3.50 dirham/about 35 cents) or Bus 19 that runs every 20 minutes (30 dirham/about $3). From Marrakech’s main train station take city buses 3, 8 or 10 to the center for 3 dirham (about 30 cents).
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CITY CHARMS:
Snake charmer (top left), sunset at Jemaa el-Fna Square (top right), and musicians (left) PHOTOS: © TYPHOONSKI | DREAMSTIME.COM, © ZLIKOVEC | DREAMSTIME.COM, © NEVENM | DREAMSTIME.COM,
DIVERSIONS
Nicknamed the Red City, Marrakech earned this unofficial designation due to its brick-hued buildings constructed using tabia, a red mud found in the region. The undisputed main attraction of Marrakech is the ancient Médina, a labyrinth of paths and alleyways where merchants make and peddle their handcrafted goods, from area rugs to silver to traditional décor. Theoretically, a shopper could outfit an entire home with a visit to the UNESCO World Heritage site. In the artsy entertainment district of Jemaa el-Fna, no money or effort is required to capture some of the finest shows on Earth. From snake charmers during the day to dancing troupes and magicians as the sun sets, the square is alive and animated at almost any hour of the day. Any visitor to Marrakech should not miss out on an authentic hammam experience. Dating back to ancient times, this bath ritual involves a mud scrub that removes any and all dry skin followed by an oil massage and aromatherapy. Hammams are separated by gender and often can be recomm ended by hotel concierges or locals.
M Y L A G O S M Y W AY
CAVIAR COLLE C TIONS R I T T E N H O U S E S Q U A R E | 2 1 5 . 5 6 7. 0 7 7 0 | L A G O S . C O M
stateside | MINNEAPOLIS
Work in Progress The Minneapolis Big Build inspires an extraordinary renaissance. BY SUSAN B. BARNES COUNTDOWN TO SUPER BOWL:
Fisheye view of Minnesota Vikings’ U.S. Bank Stadium PHOTO: © MARK HERREID | DREAMSTIME.COM
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CASUALLY ASK SOMEONE in Minnesota’s Twin Cities what’s new, and you may be in for a longer conversation than you anticipated. Minneapolis, larger than its twin sister city, Saint Paul, is in the midst of “The Minneapolis Big Build,” a series of projects including new facilities, green spaces and public amenities totaling $2 billion in investment. Who will benefit from this massive transformation? Everyone and anyone who lives, works, visits and plays in the vibrant city. With the upcoming X Games in July 2017 and 2018, Super Bowl LII in 2018 and the NCAA Men’s Basketball Final Four in 2019 — not to mention home teams Minnesota Vikings, Twins, Timberwolves, Lynx and Wild — one could safely say
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sports play a major role in life in Minneapolis. While the MLB Twins play at Target Field and the Wild play at the Xcel Energy Center in nearby Saint Paul, the NBA Timberwolves’ and WNBA Lynx’s home, the Target Center, is undergoing major renovations to enhance the fans’ experiences, including a new atrium and lobby; a new scoreboard, the largest center-hung scoreboard in the Upper Midwest; a renovated suite level; and new seats. The biggest news on Minneapolis’ sports front, however, may be the brand-new U.S. Bank Stadium, nearly twice the size of its predecessor, the Metrodome, and home field for the NFL Vikings, who played their first regular season home game in the stadium in September 2016. The 1.75-million-square-foot, state-of-the-art facility is more than a sports field, however. Inside, its suite levels and public spaces are available for special events and executive meetings … even weddings. Minneapolis’ and the entire state’s creativity is evident within the stadium as well, with walls adorned with more than 500 pieces of original, curated artwork and photographs, all created by Minnesotans. Speaking of art, the city’s Walker Art Center recently enhanced its visitor experience with its new Esker Grove, a spot to relax and enjoy a cocktail, lunch or dinner, or perhaps even
PUBLIC ART:
Minneapolis Sculpture Garden’s centerpiece, Spoonbridge and Cherry fountain, designed by husband and wife Claes Oldenburg and Coosje van Bruggen PHOTO: © MIKE7777777 | DREAMSTIME.COM
SCENIC DRIVES
weekend brunch. Esker Grove overlooks the Minneapolis Sculpture Garden, now undergoing extensive renovations to include an additional 16 new pieces of art and expected to reopen this summer. Outside of town, Prince’s Paisley Park opened to the public in October 2016, six months after the star’s passing. Fans of his music will certainly want to tour his private home and recording studios for a look into his heavily guarded private life. Back in downtown Minneapolis, a complete rebuild at Nicollet Mall, the city’s main street for shopping and dining, will enhance its pedestrian area, lighting and art spaces. Phases of the one-mile-long project are anticipated to open this year and next. Minneapolis’ fastest-growing neighborhood, the North Loop, bursts with new restaurants and shops. Development booms across the Mississippi River, too, in Northeast Minneapolis. In fact, you may be hard-pressed to find an area of the city not seeing its own renaissance in some way. With all of the city’s development and redevelopment, it comes as no surprise the Minneapolis hotel scene swells with construction — 1,500 new rooms in 10 hotel properties have recently opened or will be soon. In November 2016 Carlson Rezidor Hotel Group debuted its first Radisson RED property in the United States in Minneapolis within close proximity to U.S. Bank Stadium, and the young hotel brand aims to change the
way guests experience hotel stays. “RED is unlike any other hotel brand, and we are bringing something completely new to the Minneapolis market,” said Ryan Foley, general manager or “curator,” Radisson RED Minneapolis. “There is no front desk; we hire and train our staff differently; we simplify the experience through technology; and we enhance the experience through art, music and fashion.” Foley went on to say Radisson RED encourages a DIY-type hotel stay, and the brand wants guests to enjoy an experience, not just sleep. Additional new branded hotels include the AC Marriott Minneapolis Downtown and Embassy Suites Minneapolis Downtown. Visitors can find boutique hotels in Minneapolis as well, such as Hotel Alma, opened in December 2016 across the Mississippi River from downtown Minneapolis in Marcy-Holmes, the city’s first neighborhood. The sevenroom hotel, more like an inn, complements James Beard Award-winning chef Alex Robert’s Restaurant Alma and new Café Alma downstairs, all housed within the same recently renovated building. Minneapolis has taken great care in identifying and designing projects and initiatives that will make the city an even more inviting destination for families, professionals and visitors to live, work and play, and make it even easier to say, “Make mine Minneapolis.”
From downtown Minneapolis, head east through its Twin City, Saint Paul, and toward the St. Croix Valley along the St. Croix Scenic Byway. The nearly 124-mile drive will take about two and a half hours each way, leaving behind the development and growth of the cities. Instead, in the valley you’ll find rolling landscapes through some of Minnesota’s oldest settlements, each with its own history, culture and beauty. Take time to stop at Afton State Park, Banning State Park and Brook Park State Monument to enjoy the area’s natural beauty before returning to the buzz and bright lights in the city.
asts is bo l o p a e Minn es of d s mil u l p necte n o c 10 r nte sed, i eave enclo hat w t s y a wn wnto skyw o d t ghou g to throu uildin ot b e n o on from you d o s , r old e anoth rave the c t of to b e hea h have t r e o viabl nter ’s y t i of wi he c er. T m also m u s stem y s l i vel ra o tra t light y s a city s it e f the o make t r a to one p even from d n a , other to an t. irpor the a
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9–5 | SEOUL
Hip and Happening Network in Seoul, a city wired for 21st-century business. BY ELLEN CLARK
ON THE MOVE:
Seoul Metro subway and city skyline PHOTO: © CJ NATTANAI | DREAMSTIME.COM
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MORE THAN 10 MILLION PEOPLE live in Seoul, South Korea’s dynamic capital city, where towering skyscrapers, including Lotte World Tower, the world’s fifth-largest building, rub shoulders with Buddhist temples and ancient palaces. But while the inhabitants respect and remember the past, the city’s main focus in the 21st century is on modern life. No wonder it is rapidly becoming known as one of the world’s most innovative technology-driven cities and claims to be the world’s most wired metropolis with the widespread integration of 4G and WiFi in all stations and subway cars. Digital Media City is a high-tech complex for digital technologies in downtown Seoul. Housing ubiquitous networked offices, apartments, exhibitions, conference halls and cultural centers, it attracts broadcasting, movies, games, music, e-learning and related industries. In February the science ministry
opened the newest addition to the complex. Known as KoVac, it aims to nurture the virtual reality and augmented reality industries as the country aims to become a global powerhouse in these sectors. Thanks to Seoul’s efficient public transportation system, visitors and locals find it easy to navigate the city. For starters, nine major subway lines run throughout the city; the trains come about every five minutes and are spotlessly clean. Signs in both Korean and English help to make negotiating the subway less daunting for visitors. Buses come in four colors: The green and blue buses work within the city limits, red buses go to the suburbs, and yellow buses run on circular routes in downtown for easy access to major shopping and business areas. Taxis are easily available. If you’re not near a taxi stop (and there are lots of them), you can flag one down from the side of the road. In Seoul most business deals and relationships are made, or not, over food and drink. It is always wise
to accept an invitation to dinner because this is where South Korean contacts will frequently decide if they want to do business with you. Korea is home to a heavy drinking culture, and many Korean businesspeople feel they will get to know a business partner, colleague or customer better over a few drinks. Hence, bars and clubs are popular venues for business entertaining. It’s not unusual to be invited out to a bar after business hours, and don’t be surprised if you wind up on the karaoke stage. A morning visit to a jimjilbang can be particularly helpful for combating the effects of a night spent with business colleagues in one of the city’s lively bars. These 24-hour, gender-segregated bathhouses feature relaxing hot and cold soaking pools, bathing and massage areas, various saunas, entertainment lounges and communal sleeping rooms. But some offer much more. Besides enjoying the bathhouse facilities at Siloam Sauna, for example, you can get your hair cut, have your shoes resoled, store a suitcase, play table tennis or brush up on your karaoke skills before the next night on the town. Downtown Seoul offers plenty of business hotels, but a few are particularly alluring, known for being business-friendly and for having excellent restaurants and lounges for business lunches, dinners or cocktails. Lotte Hotel Seoul, a 5-star luxury business hotel located in Seoul’s Central Business District, features a business center with equipment ranging from a laser printer to a digital camera, offers services such as translation and secretarial assistance, and will even print up business cards. Impress important clients by treating them to either lunch or dinner at the hotel’s top-notch, French fine-dining restaurant with its 2-Michelin-starred chef, Pierre Gagnaire. Four Seasons Hotel Seoul makes a welcome addition to the city’s high-end hotel scene. Besides the expected business center, the property’s Executive Club Lounge offers personalized services from last-minute garment pressing to setting up an urgent business meeting. The Four Seasons also features seven restaurants and lounges for entertaining business associates for either lunch or dinner. One of the most fun venues, “Hidden on our Lower Level,” is Charles H., an intimate, dark bar named for the legendary American cocktail writer Charles H. Baker. A particularly cool place for an after-work toddy, the libations on the cocktail menu trace Baker’s epic travels in search of the perfect drink across eras and continents. If time permits, visit Seoul’s main historical museum to learn about the city’s fascinating past from the Stone Age to present times. Lovers of Korea’s spicy national side dish might consider learning to make it themselves at Museum Kimchikan. And if the frenetic pace of the city gets to be too much, spend an hour or two in Changgyeonggung Palace’s restful and lovely botanical gardens.
HISTORIC SEOUL: Geunjeong Hall (above), and the National Museum of Korea (left) PHOTOS: © ELLEN CLARK
eet 445 f From , ground off the er’s ul Tow N Seo l Digita vatory Obser a 360 offers a anoram p e e r g de ile ity, wh c e h t of ens D scre C L 2 3 t the recoun tory ear his y 0 0 6 ul. of Seo
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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
SIGNIEL: Signature Lotte The new Signiel brand symbolizes the ultimate in luxury.
LOTTE HOTEL’S NEWEST EDITION Signiel becomes the first top-rated landmark hotel brand in Asia. Derived from the word “signature” and “Lotte,” Signiel symbolizes excellence in luxury, impeccable service and accommodation — in every sense of the word. Guests of Signiel’s flagship location, Signiel Seoul, experience world-class accommodations in one of tallest hotels in the world. Located on floors 76–101 of Lotte World Tower, Signiel Seoul boasts unmatched, panoramic skyline views showcasing Seoul’s breathtaking nightscape. With 235 guestrooms, including 42 suites, Signiel Seoul brings a whole new experience that cannot be found anywhere else in Korea. Each room delivers incredible sights both outside the space and within. With individualized, world-class interior design blending Eastern and Western styles, each suite is more decadent than the next. Guests receive complimentary access to the high-tech fitness center, swimming pool and Salon de Signiel, an exclusive lounge for hotel guests. The Royal Suite, located on the 100th floor, provides expansive space for any VIP guest and is the most expensive hotel room in Korea.
Signiel guests enjoy top-tier services such as personal shoppers, trainers and private services courtesy of the country’s largest team of butlers. Guests travel in premium comfort and style as transportation services include private transfers by helicopter or Rolls Royce. Appreciate fine French dining at Michelin chef Yannick Alléno’s restaurant Stay, or anywhere else in Signiel Seoul, as chef Yannick directs the entire food and beverage experience at the hotel. Indulgence awaits at the world-famous, French Alps-inspired Evian Spa, boasting services in skin nourishment and regeneration. Host an event at the tallest banquet room in the world, The Grand Ballroom on the 76th floor. Luxury wedding concepts are led and developed by highly acclaimed event planner Kristin Banta, known for unique wedding concepts and events. Signiel exceeds the highest of expectations. Signiel will be represented in Busan by 2019, with more to come. Perfectly designed guestrooms and unrivaled customer service should put Signiel at the top of your hotel list in Seoul. To learn more, visit lottehotel.com/signielseoul/en.
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after 5 | GLASGOW
Pub Fare Sip and sample your way through Glasgow after hours.
BY BARBARA RADCLIFFE ROGERS
w pubs o g s a l ,G By law lose at must c t clubs u b , t h midnig .m. til 3 a n u n e p stay o
WITH MORE THAN 700 to choose from, it’s almost a criminal act to visit Glasgow without sampling its pubs. And as the U.K.’s music capital and Britain’s only UNESCO City of Music, the options for after-work entertainment are staggering. Glasgow’s nightlife pulses throughout its grid of city center streets, blending eastward into the Merchant City neighborhood. For early evening drinks with colleagues choose The Salon, the smartly serene lounge above the lobby of Blythswood Square Hotel. The Restaurant at Blythswood Square is a good place to wind up the day’s business, with discrete private booths and a menu based on fresh local ingredients. Only a short walk from Royal Glasgow Concert Hall, it’s also a good choice if evening plans include the theater. In the next block, try one of Glasgow’s best seafood restaurants, Two Fat Ladies, known for straightforward treatment of fresh Scottish seafood and Highland game. Pubs often serve traditional foods to fortify “punters” as they sample local ales. One of Glasgow’s favorites, Blackfriars in Merchant City, features cider-
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steamed mussels, steak and ale pie and beer-battered haddock with hand-cut chips. The Horseshoe Bar on Drury Street, whose Edwardian interior has barely changed since its 1884 opening, claims the U.K.’s longest bar, at 100 feet. Glasgow’s most famous malt whiskey pub, The Pot Still on Hope Street, opened in 1867 and serves more than 300 varieties. A prolonged pub crawl doesn’t mean missing Glasgow’s other after-hours specialty: its music scene. Mix pub vibe, a wide choice of whiskeys and craft beers and live Scottish music at The Ben Nevis on Argyle Street. The laidback pub Admiral Bar on Waterloo offers club nights in its basement. Scotia Bar — Glasgow’s oldest pub, dating from 1792 — remains one of the best live venues for folk music. The various rooms at The Garage, on Sauchiehall Street, host live bands and dance parties, and the tonier Shimmy Club on Royal Exchange Square plays electro and house. Many of Glasgow’s LGBTQ clubs and bars are in Merchant City: The Polo Lounge on Wilson Street has a good dance floor, although Bennets on Glassford Street is the best known. The Waterloo on Argyle Street is a gay pub. Between pubs there’s a handy place for shopping. Open until 7 p.m. (8 p.m. on Thursday), House of Fraser on Buchanan Street is where to find a Harris Tweed cap, a Lyle & Scott golf sweater and other Scottish brands.
ON TAP:
The Salon at Blythswood Square Hotel (left), and The Restaurant at Blythswood Square (right) PHOTOS: © BLYTHSWOOD SQUARE HOTEL
neighborhoods | PETRA
Lost City Explore the ancient stone mysteries of Petra. BY ILONA KAUREMSZKY
Syria
Jor dan
Israel
Iraq
PETRA
Saudi Arabia
CITY OF STONE:
The Treasury (left), and the Siq lit by candles at night (right) PHOTOS: © POCHOLO CALAPRE | DREAMSTIME .COM, © DEMERZEL21 | DREAMSTIME.COM
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BEFORE THERE WAS WALL STREET in New York or the Square Mile in London, there was Petra. In the heart of Jordan’s Shara Mountains between the Dead Sea and the Gulf of Aqaba lies an ancient trade center once an important crossroads between Arabia, Egypt and ancient Syria. From the first century B.C. to the third century, wealthy merchants flourished in one of the most influential and prosperous commercial hubs in antiquity. Built by the early Nabateans, the caravan city is long gone, as is the rich incense trade route. But ever since the New7Wonders of the World proclamation in 2007, tourists, tour guides and Bedouins rediscovered — and now populate — the City of Stone. Walk back in time through a narrow winding gorge called the Siq, a towering, 650-foot-high sandstone alley that slits a one-mile course until the climactic destination of the Treasury (al-Khazneh in Arabic) is revealed. Those familiar with the hit movie Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade will recall actor Harrison Ford slinking from darkness toward the shimmering temple’s pink glow. Legend has it a pharaoh’s hidden treasure is
stored in the precarious urn that looms above — just one of the many mysteries lurking in this Middle Eastern sun. Today, camel-riding tourists appear before the monstrous edifice. If you arrive at sunrise, chances are good Petra will be void of crowds. Besides the Treasury, other must-see highlights of the rocky ghost town include the Roman amphitheater, for views of an early entertainment complex that once held 7,000 spectators; the Royal Tombs, for the spellbinding collection of caverns; and the Monastery (ad-Deir). At the Monastery, prepare for an hour’s hike up 900 rocky steps to see the largest carved monument in Petra. If the energetic jaunt doesn’t leave you breathless, the sight certainly will. Pure magic, the enormous façade is riddled with pockmarks of erosion. Inside, the atmosphere changes to a dark, cramped quarter. Only the faint squeaks of mouse-eared bats might be heard. It’s time to return to the hotel, refresh and visit the local scene. In Petra’s living neighborhood of Wadi Musa, hotels and occasional shops line the dust-ridden thoroughfares. The closest resort to Petra, Mövenpick Resort Petra, features an on-site, Bedouin-inspired souk, the Zara Souk, bedecked in local handicrafts. For drinks and a Bedouin dance, hit the Cave Bar, a quirky watering hole purported to be the world’s oldest bar. Inside this haunting Nabatean tomb, amid ancient carved stonework dating back two millennia, dancers perform for enthusiastic patrons at this fixture conveniently located behind the Petra Visitor Center. Later, it’s a toss-up between cooking with the locals under the watchful eye of chefs at the Petra Kitchen, where authentic Arabic meals get top billing, or seeing the Treasury illuminated by candlelight. To help solve the evening dilemma, hit the pool back at the resort to see whether your head or your stomach will rule.
friends & family | AMSTERDAM
Convivial and Quirky Amsterdam entices visitors with freewheeling fun. BY BECCA HENSLEY
DAYBREAK:
Beautiful spring sunrise viewed from one of Amsterdam’s many bridges PHOTO: © DENNIS VAN DE WATER | DREAMSTIME.COM
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DIAPHANOUS, THE MIST RISES from the Amstel River like smoke conjured from a magic wand. Cold, we huddle on the leather seats of our snug, centuries-old saloon boat. It’s outfitted with the aplomb of a proud sailor, with shiny bits of brass and dark wood. Our bearded captain, stereotypically nautical, seems an extension of his craft. As the motor purrs and we pull away from the dock for an evening meander through Amsterdam’s canals, I sip Champagne and take a last look, for now, at our hotel, the InterContinental Amstel Amsterdam, one of the most storied and luxurious lodges in the “tulip city.” As glittery at night as the cut diamonds that hail from this Dutch capital, the hotel seems to wish us well on our journey, to invite us back to warm beds. But first, an old-fashioned jaunt on one of the hotel’s three historic
saloon boats. We cruise beneath brightly lit bridges and beside riverside pathways filled with couples holding hands, and bikers navigating around them. Lining each side, narrow canal houses rise toward the moon. The glow inside illuminates the people within, and we watch, all the while nibbling canapés served by the captain himself, as life in Amsterdam unfolds. This mood of utter romance is what the Dutch call gezellig, a word that means convivial coziness, intimacy — all things quixotic and chimerical. And we don’t just experience gezellig on our boat. Back at the Amstel, we seem enveloped in it. With its French Renaissance façade, gilded interior ceilings and original ornamental plasterwork, the hotel radiates the elegance of Cary Grant in a tuxedo. Chandeliers drip throughout, and the elevators are paneled with mahogany. Our room, the Royal Suite, once housed the Dutch king and queen for a night. It’s a regal symphony of river views, Delftware and mahogany-inlaid tables; there’s a canopied, silk damask-covered bed,
ARTISTIC SIDE
Self-portrait sign at the entrance to the Van Gogh Museum (top), and The Nine Streets with vintage stores and cozy cafés (bottom) PHOTOS: © INNA FELKER | DREAMSTIME.COM, © INGE HOGENBIJL | DREAMSTIME.COM
LODGING
rare 17th-century Parisian dressers and an antique bathtub with brass fixtures. The next morning I wake to bikes purring. A gentle alarm clock, the soft whirring noises of wheels and the thump of frames against cobblestones stir me to consciousness. Bicycles dominate in this city of canals — even in the morning, I discover, as I peer out sleepily, watching them pass below me in all directions. I love this city with its dollhouse-like canal homes, its small glasses of cold beer, its great baskets of colorful tulips and its ubiquitous cruiser bikes. I’ve spent the last few days digesting enormous meals of fine art, indulging and exploring as many museums as the days are long, taking in the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum, the Stedelijk Museum, a special exhibit at the Nieuwe Church — and the Hermitage Museum, an enriching venue in a renovated canal-side boarding house that shows temporary exhibits from the rich collection of the State Hermitage Museum of St. Petersburg. Beyond the awe of Rembrandt, canal houses, cheese so aged it tastes like crispy caramel, nefariously intoxicating coffeehouses, tulips, Delft china, antiques to die for and a not-soseamy Red Light District, what leaves the biggest impression when I visit this treasure trove of a city is life in the bike lane. Absolutely the first thing you have to know about Amsterdam is how to ride a bike Amsterdammer style (cross tram lines with care, yield to the right, don’t ride two abreast) — or at the very least, as a pedestrian, know how to dodge them. According to recent statistics, there’s nearly a bike per person there, with 600,000 bikes rolling through the cobblestone streets of this 900-year-old city. Young,
GRAND HOTEL AMARÂTH Once home to six major shipping companies, the Amsterdam-style Art Nouveau hotel celebrates its past with maritime flourishes in the interiors. Lavish amenities in the ship-reminiscent hotel include a complimentary spa and minibar. Prins Hendrikkade 108 $$$$$
old, rich, poor — everybody pedals. And nobody wears a helmet. In a city with countless canals, narrow streets and more than a thousand bridges, bikes rule the road. Naturally, this city chock-full of cycles looks like a playground to my kids. They giggle aplenty at unprecedented sights such as a quartet of dogs barking from their flower-covered bike basket and a man pedaling while juggling an immense vase in one hand and a cellphone in the other, with two kids clinging to his waist behind him. But beyond bikes, Amsterdam enthralls families with its multiple museums, many of which feature child-friendly, hands-on kid corners to make art and history accessible. Think treasure hunts at the Van Gogh Museum. Shopping the art galleries, antique stores and boutiques in a picturesque, 17th-century enclave called The Nine Streets offers something for everyone, as does cruising the canals on paddle boats or indulging in a city tour atop two-wheelers. Some other things to do? On Wednesdays, don’t miss
INTERCONTINENTAL AMSTEL AMSTERDAM Poised above the Amstel River in a 150-year-old gilded mansion, the InterContinental Amstel Amsterdam welcomes royalty and celebrities to posh suites and its acclaimed restaurant, La Rive. Professor Tulpplein 1 $$$$$ PULITZER AMSTERDAM In the trendy Jordaan, composed of 25 converted and intertwined Golden Age canal houses, the Pulitzer is a charming hotel with exposed beams, soaring ceilings and canal views. No room mimics another. Prinsengracht 315-331 $$$$$
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DUTCH TREATS:
Cheese shop in Amsterdam (top), Dutch mini pancakes (bottom left), and stack of traditional stroopwafels (bottom right) PHOTOS: © PAULGRECAUD | DREAMSTIME.COM, © LETUVE | DREAMSTIME.COM, © VANILLAECHOES | DREAMSTIME.COM
DINING
BRIDGES, INSPIRED BY RON BLAAUW Set in The Grand Amsterdam Hotel, the Michelin-starred eatery in the Red Light District gets kudos for innovative seafood dishes and its afternoon tea. The Grand Amsterdam Hotel, Oudezijds Voorburgwal 197 $$$$$ CAFÉ HOPPE Once a jenever distillery, this beloved brown café serves throngs of after-work diners and drinkers daily. On the Dom Platz, it serves up Amsterdammer specialties such as beef croquettes. Spuistraat 18-20 $$ L’INVITÉ In the heart of the Jordaan neighborhood, a cozy canal house holds L’invité, a farm-to-fork, casually elegant eatery with a French flair. Bloemgracht 47 $$$$
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INFO TO GO the afternoon puppet show in Dam Square, a century-old tradition. Bring tissues when you visit the poignant Anne Frank House Museum, located in the original canal house where the Frank and Van Pels families went into hiding. Travel in style aboard the city’s trams. My kids love the vintage one that starts at Haarlemmermeer Station, which boasts wooden seats and an old-fashioned, piercingly loud bell. Ride it to Amsterdamse Bos, 20 minutes away, where a peacock-filled park awaits. There, family-owned stands sell sweet (or savory) Dutch pancakes. As you wander through the city, also nosh on patat (French fries served with mayonnaise); hutspot (a stew of braised beef, mashed carrots and potatoes); Dutch cheese (especially Edam and Gouda); licorice, sold in every shape; and sweet, cookie-like stroopwafels. Legions of trendy bars and hidden speakeasies will quench your thirst with contemporary libations, but I enjoy my favorite swill among locals at Café Hoppe (circa 1670). There, order a kopstoot. You’ll get two drinks: a tulip glass full of jenever (Dutch gin) and a small beer (probably a Heineken). Bend at the waist, then throw back the jenever first. Follow that with the beer. If you’re not too pie-eyed, do it again. Your Dutch friends will applaud your efforts. Just one thing: Don’t try to ride home on your bike afterward. Proost!
Fly to Amsterdam Airport Schiphol, an airy, convenient, friendly airport just a 20-minute train or taxi ride from Amsterdam’s city center. Enjoy the airport’s myriad restaurants, art museum, massage studio, sleeping section and showers.
bucket list | SYDNEY
Height of Courage Breathtaking views reward those who climb the Sydney Harbour Bridge. BY MARLENE GOLDMAN
UP IN THE AIR: Climbers enjoying the view atop the Sydney Harbour Bridge (left) and celebrating a successful climb with BridgeClimb (middle), and the illuminated dance floor atop the bridge for the Vivid Climb (right) PHOTOS: © BRIDGECLIMB
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ABOUT HALFWAY UP THE outer arch of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, I attempt to relieve my state of panic with the recommendation from tour company BridgeClimb’s website: “If you feel wobbly or light-headed, it can be comforting to ground yourself. Push your feet in your shoes against the solid pathway. Squeeze the hand rails to remind yourself that everything is sturdy and safe and you are in control.” I press my foot against a gunmetal steel beam and cling onto the rail along the edge of the bridge, trying not to focus on the eight lanes of traffic whizzing by below. I am on a three-and-a-half-hour hike up Sydney’s grand dame of bridges, mostly to see the sweeping views of the Sydney Opera House and downtown skyline, but partly to confront and possibly overcome a personal fear of heights. The 440-foot-high Sydney Harbour Bridge, the world’s largest but not longest steel arch bridge, is a Sydney icon, connecting the northern and southern shores of dazzling Sydney Harbour.
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Several dramatic bridge crossings were precursors to those organized by BridgeClimb. In 1973 French high-wire daredevil Philippe Petit set up a wire between the two pylons at the southern end of the bridge and crossed over. History also has it that after the original opening ceremony in 1932, some members of the public unofficially began climbing up the arch, 66 years before BridgeClimb opened. Since 1998 BridgeClimb has made it possible for tourists to officially climb the southern half of the bridge. The company touts it has helped more than 3.2 million people from 137 countries around the world reach the summit. There is a less daring way to cross the bridge, on its pedestrian walkway along the eastern side, with overlooks from the South-East Pylon. BridgeClimb also offers other options: the BridgeClimb Express, which traverses steel paths to the top rather than walking along the outer arch, and BridgeClimb Sampler, which goes only halfway up. But the traditional BridgeClimb offering appeals to my spirit of adventure and forces me to face my fears.
INFO TO GO
Sydney Airport sits about 13 minutes by train from the city. There are train stations located at both the international and domestic terminals, which operate as part of the Airport Link service. Sydney Buses are also available into the city, including Route 400, between Bondi Junction and Burwood, which stops at both the international (T1) and domestic (T3) terminals.
The day of my climb is a sunny spring afternoon, though there is a noticeable strong breeze even at ground level. My climbing guide comments on the high winds but assures me there is no danger, noting the bridge was designed to withstand hurricane-force winds of about 120 mph. I sign a waiver and complete a breathalyzer test as well as attend a thorough safety briefing. Next, I gear up with a jumpsuitstyle BridgeSuit outerwear and fleece along with harnesses, a handkerchief and a headset to hear the guide. I join a small group of others for a demo and training run as we practice moving harnesses, latching onto hooks and climbing ladders. The real deal begins from The Rocks area of the city. After hooking on at the climb base below the roadway, we start on the initial section, which entails a series of catwalks to the South-East Pylon and affords a literally breathtaking view. Though BridgeClimb guests are not allowed to bring cameras for safety reasons, there are pictures taken for purchase after the climb. The next section turns out to be the most mentally challenging, as I ascend a series of four ladders to reach the upper arch. Rather than dwell on the long drop below, I try to focus on my guide, who regales me with stories about the history of the bridge. She reveals construction began in 1923, with more than 1,400 workers involved, and took more than eight years to
build at a cost of $4.2 million. The arch construction itself began in October 1928, starting with the southern end of the bridge, followed by the northern end. The real cost of the bridge, though, was in the 16 lives lost. This year the State Library of New South Wales marks the 85th anniversary of the Sydney Harbour Bridge by releasing a collection of interviews with the people who built it. Other casualties during its construction included the loss of homes of up to 800 families living along its path whose dwellings were demolished. Yet for all its hardships, the result is a simple yet majestic structure overlooking the largest natural harbor in the world. During my climb I tighten my grip as the wind picks up along the outer arch in the final part of my ascent. Taking a deep breath and without looking straight down, I cross the top of the bridge, or spine, marked by two fluttering flags — one the Australian flag and the other for New South Wales — before heading back down the other side. The climb proves less daunting than anticipated thanks to a secure harness and encouraging guide, well worth a few heart flutters in exchange for the vantage point over spectacular Sydney Harbour. My reward at the end is a cap and certificate of achievement, which I will hang as testament to my bravery in confronting my own fears and completing one of Sydney’s highlight attractions. MAY 2017
Break out your
best moves on an
illuminated dance floor on The
Vivid Climb which takes place during Vivid Sydney
May 26-June 17.
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kicking back | THE
HAMPTONS
At Leisure Stay and play year-round in the culture-rich Hamptons. BY SHARON KING HOGE
THE BEACON:
Montauk Point Light PHOTO: © JORG HACKEMANN | DREAMSTIME.COM
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NEW YORK STATE’S SEE-AND-BE-SEEN summer getaway of celebrities from Martha Stewart and Stephen Spielberg to Madonna and Jimmy Fallon, the Hamptons makes a tempting stopover. Stretching east from Manhattan, Long Island ends in upper and lower prongs offering beaches, vistas and vineyards. But it is the South Fork most people mean when they refer to “the Hamptons.” Spanning about 30 miles, it encompasses a half dozen seaside communities — oldmoneyed and gentrified Southampton; Sag Harbor, the hub of actors and writers; East Hampton with its glittery show business scene; more restrained Water Mill; Bridgehampton; and Amagansett. There’s also Sagaponack, which rates as the most expensive zip code in America, and laid-back Montauk, at the far end, a haven for bohemians, fishermen and surfers. It’s summertime when you’re most apt to encounter Alec Baldwin or Sarah Jessica Parker buying newspapers at CandyKitchen, window shopping at Ralph Lauren, stocking up on crispy mustard-roasted chicken at the Barefoot Contessa or waiting in line for lattes at Starbucks. But
INFO TO GO
While the stars fly out by helicopter, most visitors avoid the rural East Hampton Airport. Off season, the 100-mile drive takes an easy two hours from Manhattan, but that can more than double in the throes of summer traffic. The Montauk Branch of the Long Island Railroad schedules two to five trips per day to and from Penn Station. The preferred option is the ultra-efficient coach service of the Hampton Jitney and Luxury Liner that offer WiFi and snacks on board. Their frequency is almost hourly in summer, with pick-up and drop-off at East- and Westside Manhattan locations, plus an airport connection.
Memorial Day to Labor Day the whole region also suffers frequent gridlock with bumper-to-bumper traffic on vital Route 27. The Hamptons in winter is a whole different matter. While you’re less apt to encounter famous faces and some of the attractions close down, in off-season visitors can truly relax, bask in the scenery and score restaurant reservations and discounted hotel rooms. All year-round there’s plenty to do. The No. 1 attraction is the region’s glorious beaches for basking, jogging, strolling, paddle boarding and picnicking. While the daily parking permit fee is $40 at Southampton’s Coopers Beach (and an extra $25 for chair and umbrella), there’s no charge for just walking onto glorious stretches of sand like East Hampton’s Main Beach or Montauk’s marvelous dunes, and some hotels provide dropoff service. Bicycles are another option; most villages have rental shops for pedaling to the nearby stretches of sand where you can easily stash cycles. Golfing offers another way to take in the scenery. Montauk Downs, Sag Harbor Golf and Poxabogue in Bridgehampton are public courses with spectacular settings. Around a dozen facilities rent tennis courts, even in winter at East Hampton Indoor Tennis. Fitness centers like Soul Cycle and Pilates studios offer spin, exercise and yoga classes year-round. When it’s cold, enjoy pick-up hockey games, skating and ice boating on Mecox Bay. In a locale with so many illustrious residents, culture lies at the forefront. Authors Jay McInerney and Tom Wolfe may promote their books in library readings or join more than two dozen writers signing their works at East Hampton Library’s annual outdoor Authors Night benefit. Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow, Emily Mortimer, Alessandro Nivola and other actors and directors may host screenings of their movies, and the Hamptons Film Festival takes over local theaters each October. Sag Harbor’s Bay Street Theater hosts Broadway shows and comedy nights. Fueled by the legacy of former artist-residents Jackson Pollock, Willem de Kooning and Lee Krasner and now augmented by modern painters Eric Fischl, Donald Sultan and April Gornik, the East End provides rich opportunities for art lovers. Local galleries and tents set up for art fairs in July offer revolving exhibits. The rambling Herzog & de Meurondesigned Parrish Art Museum and the stately Southampton Arts Center show exhibits all year. On weekends, Dan Flavin’s fluorescent light creations are displayed in the Art Institute established in a former firehouse. Founded in the 1640s, the villages tout their histories. The colonial Thomas Halsey Homestead, the 17th-century Pelle-
treau Silver Shop and the Rogers Mansion list among historic structures comprising the Southampton Historical Museum, which sponsors play readings, lectures and classes. Of its half dozen historic buildings, East Hampton’s 1720 OsbornJackson House remains open year-round, and the Society runs a winter lecture series. Sag Harbor’s Whaling & Historical Museum houses the state’s largest collection of whaling equipment, and the stately building fronted by Corinthian columns has been declared a National Treasure. Standing 110 feet tall, the Montauk Lighthouse displays the actual
ton’s Hamp East akes a cks m u b r a St or spot f great rities. g celeb n i t t o sp
LODGING
THE AMERICAN HOTEL Eight shabby-chic double rooms are in demand at Sag Harbor’s vintage 1846 hotel, revamped in the 1970s with sitting rooms, Frette linens and oversized bathrooms, steps away from the popular hangout bar downstairs. 45 Main St., Sag Harbor $$$ ($$$$$ in summer) MAIDSTONE ARMS Snuggle into “Scandinavian-cozy” European flair in 19 rooms and cottages with Covuchi robes, aromatherapy burners, Malin+Goetz bath products and a hearty buffet served on the ground floor. 207 Main St., East Hampton $$$$ ($$$$$ in summer) SOUTHAMPTON INN This grand dame hotel offers almost 100 rooms decorated in traditional style with an outdoor pool, tennis court, game room and gym. 91 Hill St., Southampton $$$ ($$$$ in summer) HAMPTONS CHARM:
Main Street shopping in Southampton (top), and Cedar Point Lighthouse in East Hampton (bottom) PHOTOS: © LITTLENY | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SYLVANA REGA | DREAMSTIME.COM
MAY 2017
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DINING
NICK AND TONI’S Summer reservations are at a premium at this celebrity favorite where lucky diners enjoying wood-roasted whole fish or crispy duck leg could be seated near Brad Pitt and Jack Nicolson. 136 N. Main St., East Hampton $$$$ PIERRE’S Bouillabaisse, blanquette de veau and other traditional French fare round out the seafood-focused menu, dish of the day and fixed-price menu at this chic and casual café with outdoor summer seating. 2468 Main St., Bridgehampton $$$ TOPPING ROSE HOUSE Enjoy sensible, locally sourced versions of renowned chef JeanGeorges Vongerichten’s sophisticated French cuisine in the elegant, historic dining room. 1 BridgehamptonSag Harbor Turnpike, Bridgehampton $$$$
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document George Washington signed authorizing its construction. Before its transformation into a resort, the South Fork was agricultural. Most of its onceextensive potato farms have been lost to development, but you’ll still find farmers raising corn, squash, zucchini, sun-ripened tomatoes, flowers and autumn pumpkins — all of which provide traffic-stopping glories of roadside farmers markets. From February through May produce is sold at the enclosed Fair Foods Farmers Market in Sag Harbor. One enduring local crop is grapes. Notable wineries feature year-round tastings and tours to show off vintages of Merlot, Cabernet, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio. Reflecting its German heritage, the Wölffer Estate in Sagaponack entertains visitors on a stone terrace or under the high-beamed ceiling within its recently renovated tasting room while local jazz musicians entertain guests nibbling at cheese and charcuterie and sipping reds and whites. Channing Daughters Winery offers artisanal wines from hand-picked grapes which are gently cluster-pressed or footstomped and gravity bottled. Open daily yearround, Channing welcomes drop-ins 11 a.m.–5 p.m. for informative tastings of six different wines each day.
MAY 2017
Spa seekers can try Gurney’s in Montauk, where a Roman bath, Finnish rock sauna, Russian steam room, Swiss shower and a unique ocean-fed saltwater pool augment healing treatments. Gurney’s also rents oceanfront rooms and, like most accommodations in the region, offers more or less half-price off-season rates and packages. Those who come to shop find Ralph Lauren, Calypso, Madewell and other familiar brands in East Hampton, while the Main Street of every village is lined with charming shops and quirky boutiques.
OUT AND ABOUT:
Wölffer Estate’s new tasting room in Sagaponack (top), and East Hampton shopping district (bottom) PHOTOS: © BRIDGET ELKIN, © JAMES KIRKIKIS | DREAMSTIME.COM,
lgbtq
DESTINATION OF CHOICE:
The Buenos Aires LGBT Pride Parade and celebration PHOTOS: BUENOS AIRES TOURISM
Two to Tango Buenos Aires stars as a favorite LGBTQ destination. BY MARK CHESNUT men-only hotel that offers weekly gay tango lessons on its rooftop patio. ONE OF SOUTH AMERICA’S top vacation and business destinaSpeaking of tango, experiencing this traditional Argentine form of dance and music tions also happens to be, according to some surveys, one of the is the draw at dance halls called milongas. Two such venues — La Marshall and Tango most popular LGBTQ destinations in the Western Hemisphere. Queer — offer lessons for beginners, with same-sex dance instruction. And it makes sense — after all, Buenos Aires is the capital of the Buenos Aires is also legendary for its LGBTQ nightlife. One of the longest-running first Latin American country to legalize same-sex marriage on a LGBTQ discos, Amerika, packs in revelers with excellent DJs, while Contramano attracts national level. But the allure, of course, goes beyond that. a more mature clientele, and Bach Bar is popular “There are many reasons why Buenos with women. Aires continues to be one of the destinaOne of the longest-running LGBTQ In terms of LGBTQ happenings, November tions for the LGBT community,” said discos, Amerika, packs in revelers with is decidedly the gayest month in Buenos Aires. Bryan Herb, co-owner, Zoom Vacations, That’s when three special events take place: The excellent DJs, while Contramano which sells LGBTQ vacation packages. LGBTIQ Pride Parade, an international film “Argentina offers impeccable cuisine, deattracts a more mature clientele, and festival called Asterisco and a week-long dance signer fashion, gorgeous locals, stunning and music celebration called the Tango Queer Bach Bar is popular with women. architecture, rich culture and sensational Festival. Also noteworthy is BA Diversa, an hotels. With traits like these, how could LGBTQ festival organized by the city government that takes place Aug. 14–19 this year. the LGBT community not become enamored?” The multiday gathering coincides with Gnetwork360, an annual international LGBTQ Numerous hotels offer luxurious accommodations coupled tourism conference. with gay-friendliness. At the Alvear Palace Hotel, for example, Frequent visitors can easily tick off a list of their favorite things in this legendary the concierge staff shares LGBTQ travel tips, while Madonna’s destination. “Buenos Aires is a beautiful, lively, 24-hour city with European architecture, stay at the Four Seasons (when she was filming Evita) certainly fantastic nightlife, travel bargains and — my favorite — incredibly handsome, welcoming helped to place that hotel on the gay travel map. For a casual men,” said Michael Luongo, a freelance journalist and author of Frommer’s Buenos Aires. vibe, male travelers might consider El Lugar Gay, a gay-owned,
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airport update
Making Moves Miami International Airport continues record-breaking growth. BY NICOLE QUASTÉ WITH ITS PROXIMITY to some of the most beautiful beaches and tourist destinations in the United States and Latin America, Miami International Airport is one of the country’s largest hubs, ranking 10th-busiest airport in the United States and busiest in Florida by annual passenger count. Located only eight miles from downtown Miami, MIA is South Florida’s main airport for long-haul international flights and one of only eight U.S. airports to accommodate the Airbus A380 jet. The airport currently services 109 airlines, with American Airlines accounting for 50 percent of the airport’s growth. It also serves as a focus airport for Avianca, Frontier Airlines and LATAM as the gateway to Latin America. MIA experienced a record-breaking year in 2016. The airport served nearly 44.6 million travelers, an increase of 234,000 from 2015. Despite a large downturn in travel between MIA and top South American markets due to struggling economies and the presence of Zika in South Florida, the global gateway’s annual passenger traffic still increased by 0.53 percent. Also in 2016, J.D. Power and Associates ranked the airport fifth among large airports in the North America Airport Satisfaction Study — its highest ranking ever, up from 18th place in the 2015 study. This looks to be another successful year for the South Florida airport despite a bumpy start with a couple of safety threats and an altercation with pop star Jason Derulo. The airport welcomed six new passenger airlines and four allcargo carriers in 2016, and five airlines will launch new service in 2017. Three new airlines began serving MIA in February: Mexican low-cost carrier Volaris will offer service to Guadalajara (GDL) four times a week and Mexico City (MEX) daily, Qatar Airways Cargo began two weekly freighter flights, and Canadian airline First Air began charter passenger flights from Ontario (ONT). In April low-cost trans-Atlantic airline WOW Air launched three-times-weekly service to Reykjavík (KEF), and in September Aer Lingus will launch three weekly flights to Dublin (DUB). In March the Airports Council International-North America awarded the airport with the 2017 Environmental Achievement Award in the Environmental Management category for its Sustainability Project. Launched in August 2015 in partnership with Florida Power & Light Services, the project includes $32 million worth of air-conditioning and ventilation upgrades, water conservation retrofits, energy-efficient lighting and other innovative solutions that will save the airport more than 35 million kilowatts of power per year and $40 million in utility costs over
GLOBAL GATEWAY: Sunrise at Miami International Airport (above), and airport exterior (left)
PHOTOS: © BRETT CRITCHLEY | DREAMSTIME.COM, © RIDERFOOT | DREAMSTIME.COM
the 14-year contract period with FPLS. The project is reducing carbon emissions at the airport by the equivalent of 5,110 cars and water consumption equal to 28 million gallons of water. The Miami-Dade Aviation Department also announced in March it is moving forward with a multiphase Cargo Optimization, Redevelopment and Expansion program that will optimize MIA’s usable cargo space. The initial phase will increase taxiway, ramp and aircraft parking space in the cargo area. In 2015 airport officials disclosed details about their plan to refurbish the aging Central Terminal, while some officials want the building demolished and replaced. The airport embarked on a three-year, $651 million renovation it believes is necessary to keep pace with unexpectedly high growth. However, the airport also has long-term plans to demolish and replace the Central Terminal beginning in 2025.
MAY 2017
MIAMI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT miami-airport.com
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health
Persistent Resistance Drug-resistant gonorrhea poses a threat to health worldwide. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN DRUG-RESISTANT GONORRHEA poses an urgent threat worldwide. While about 820,000 new gonorrhea infections are detected yearly in the United States, less than half are reported to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. At least 240,000 cases are found to be resistant to at least one antibiotic usually prescribed to treat the disease. In fact, Neisseria gonorrhoeae, the bacteria that cause gonorrhea, developed resistance to nearly all of the antibiotics used for treatment: sulfonilamides, penicillin, tetracycline and fluoroquinolones. There is one last effective class of antibiotics, cephalosporins, to treat this common, sexually transmitted disease. Left untreated, gonorrhea can cause serious health problems. It increases the chances of getting or giving HIV, the virus that causes AIDS. Untreated gonorrhea spreads from mother to baby during birth, causing blindness in the baby. It can also cause pelvic inflammatory disease, infertility problems and ectopic pregnancies in women. In men, untreated gonorrhea can cause a painful condition in the tubes attached to the testicles. It may cause sterility and prevent a man from fathering a child. If it spreads to the blood, it can cause heart and nervous system infections and spread into the joints. At the very least, untreated gonorrhea increases health care costs. The growing resistance of gonorrhea to antibiotics threatens treatment and control. Few U.S. labs and health care facilities can test for resistance. Slow detection of resistance leads to treatment that may not work and delays a rapid response. Action is needed to improve monitoring systems to rapidly detect resistant infections and respond immediately to resistant infections to stop their spread. The CDC began a Solutions Initiative against drug-resistant gonorrhea, with the goal to make sure less than 2 percent of all gonorrhea infections are resistant to the current treatment. In
an effort to generate nationwide rapid detection of resistant gonorrhea, the CDC are working to expand the availability of resistance testing and to reduce the time it takes to get test results to providers, so patients can be treated in a timely manner with the correct antibiotics, thus preventing health complications. Public health action dictates the importance of quickly alerting patients, local health professionals and communities of a resistant strain; identifying and contacting sexual partners faster to limit spread of resistant strains; increasing monitoring and awareness; and finding hot spots and predicting potential outbreaks. Together, rapid detection, monitoring, tracking and treatment will help prevent the spread of resistance. What can you do? Take control and learn effective strategies to reduce STD risk. Know the facts and protect yourself and your partner. Anyone who is sexually active can get gonorrhea by having vaginal, anal or oral sex with someone who has gonorrhea. A pregnant woman with gonorrhea can give the infection to her baby during childbirth. The only way to avoid STDs is to not have vaginal, anal or oral sex. If you are sexually active, take the following measures to lower your chances of getting gonorrhea. Get tested: Access gettested.cdc.gov, enter your zip code and gender to find facilities within 10 miles of your location to receive fast, free and confidential testing for HIV, STDs and hepatitis. Lower your risk by being in a long-term, mutually monogamous relationship with a partner who has been tested and has negative STD test results. Use latex condoms and dental dams the right way every time you have sex. Remember, it is always better to prevent a disease than to treat it. To stay healthy in general, wash your hands often to reduce the spread of
diarrheal and respiratory illness. Regular hand cleaning, particularly before and after certain activities, is one of the best ways to remove germs, avoid getting sick and prevent the spread of germs to others. Vaccines can protect both the people who receive them and those with whom they come in contact. Vaccines are responsible for the control of many infectious diseases once common in this country and around the world, including polio, measles, diphtheria, pertussis (whooping cough), rubella (German measles), mumps, tetanus and haemophilus influenzae type b (Hib). Over the years, vaccines prevented countless cases of infectious diseases and saved millions of lives. Be aware antibiotics aren’t always the answer for common respiratory infections. Viruses cause colds, the flu, most sore throats and bronchitis, and antibiotics do not help fight viruses. Taking antibiotics when not needed increases your risk of getting an infection later that resists antibiotic treatment. Symptom relief might be the best treatment option. Children and adults with viral infections usually recover when the illness has run its course. Colds, a type of viral infection, can last for up to two weeks. You should keep your health care provider informed if you or your child’s illness gets worse or lasts longer than expected. Hospitals remain a source of many of the most resistant organisms, but there are several ways to protect yourself or a loved one. The biggest is not to be afraid to ask your health care providers to clean their hands. Gonorrhea is a global problem requiring a global approach. Action in the United States alone is unlikely to prevent resistance from developing. The CDC closely monitor gonorrhea resistance in the United States and actively collaborate with the World Health
The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.
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chefs
AT HOME IN THE AIR United Airlines Executive Chef Gerry McLoughlin takes his extensive culinary talents to the sky. BY KIMBERLY KROL
PHOTOS: © UNITED AIRLINES
GT Members Section AS SENIOR MANAGER of food and beverage design and executive chef for United Airlines, Gerry McLoughlin ensures all the culinary options on the carrier taste exceptional, even at 35,000 feet, including those served on the airline’s recently launched Polaris business-class concept. Unique touches in the new premium cabin include chef-designed menus, tempting snack options available throughout the flight and an enticing variety of desserts. Mimosa and Bloody Mary carts will delight passengers on morning flights. McLoughlin followed completion of his culinary degree with a five-year apprenticeship at Dublin’s iconic The Shelbourne hotel. McLoughlin’s more than 30 years of culinary management experience also took him to Chicago’s well-known The Drake hotel and The Metropolitan Club. As a member of the American Culinary Federation, McLoughlin oversees worldwide menu development for United Airlines. United Airlines is also the official airline of The Trotter Project, working with Trotter alumni to develop exciting menus for flights. The Trotter Project unites budding talent in the culinary arts and hospitality industries through a variety of mentorship programs.
WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR COOKING/MENUS? One of the best aspects about my job is I have the opportunity to travel the world and taste the cuisines and flavors of the destinations we fly from. Each destination brings new aspects to the table — quite literally — and I enjoy working with the team to incorporate these great new flavors in the onboard menu.
WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE, AND HOW? Chef Charlie Trotter; I can honestly tell you the best meal I’ve ever had was at his restaurant. He took pride in breaking the status quo and was extremely adventurous in his cuisine. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? Hong Kong blends the flavors of East and West with a combination of amazing European foods with the diversity of some absolutely fantastic street food. It’s a beautiful blend of cultures.
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WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? My mother — my first culinary experience was at her apron strings. Her passion was to cook with fresh ingredients and the flavors that resonate from them guided me to search for new ingredients to cook with at home and in the air.
WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? People are really moving more toward handheld items they can enjoy on the go — real food with bold flavors where they can broaden their cultural and culinary horizons. United Airlines united.com
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This Month in Aviation with Harriet Baskas
A monthly members-only newsletter includes a round-up of airline, airport and route news.
past & present
Delta Air Lines’ long history began in 1924 as an aerial crop dusting operation called Huff Daland Dusters. The airline has grown into one of the world’s largest global carriers, helping more than 160 million travelers get to the places they want to go to each year. The photos show Delta Air Lines at the Atlanta terminal in the early 1940s (top), and Delta Air Lines today (bottom).
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PHOTOS: © DELTA AIR LINES
Delta Air Lines