Union two years ago, Croatia’s waters have remained unspoilt by the rest of the continent’s greedy trawlers. There are thought to be some 400 sea creatures, from sizeable squid and giant hot pink langoustines to sea bass, bream and tender tuna. Beyond the pleasures of the promenade, pebbled beaches and enchanting islets are ripe for exploring. If you don’t care to move the yacht (it is tricky enough getting a spot in the first place), a taxi boat can whisk you, wind in hair, to Palenki Otoci,
an archipelago of 16 untapped islets. On dry land, hire a scooter and head up to the hilltop villages you can see from the terracottaroofed dwellings below. A scenic drive takes you high above wavy coastlines, through tiny villages (with as few as four residents in Malo Grablje) on to Hvar’s least touristy town of Stari Grad, where you can escape the throngs. With idyllic islets, authentic fare, beautiful people and high-end nightlife abound, you have to question why Valentino left so soon.
2016 JULY / AUGUST