Cosmetic chemistry magazine

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The Chemistry of Cosmetics GEZLEY ANN M.ILUSTRE

Inside this issue Introduction Careers in Chemistry Page 2 Cosmetic Chemist Page 2 Why Cosmetic Chemistry Page 2 Interesting Facts Page 3 The Chemicals used in cosmetics Page 4

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Beauty Products and the number of chemicals they contain Page 4

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Common cosmetics & their ingredients Page 4-5

3 Influential Female Cosmetic Scientists Page 6 List of Words Page 7 Etude House Page 8

Cosmetics are products that are intended to be applied to the human body, hair, mouth or face to improve a person´s appearance, cleanse it, keep it in condition, shield it or fragrance it without affecting the body's structure or functions. Common cosmetics include lipstick, mascara, eye shadow, foundation, rouge (blush), skin cleansers and skin lotions, shampoo, hairstyling products (gel, hair spray, etc.), perfume, and cologne.

Chemistry plays a huge role in creating as well as improving cosmetic products. The people who create new cosmetic products or develop improved, safer, and novel cosmetic products for people to use, are called Cosmetic Chemists. The beauty and cosmetic products that you see in stores are developed by them.

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CAREERS IN CHEMISTRY Studying chemistry opens doors to a wide range of careers. Since chemistry is involved in our everyday lives, there is a vast range of jobs and careers open to those who have studied chemistry at any level. Great career opportunities exist both inside and outside the lab.

Jobs that you can attain to after having your chemistry degree: 

Analytical chemist

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Chemical engineer

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Healthcare scientist, clinical biochemistry

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Forensic scientist

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Pharmacologist

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Research scientist (physical sciences)

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Toxicologist

You can also work in schools, colleges, universities as well as in computer

Jobs where your chemistry degree would be useful:  Chartered certified accountant  Environmental consultant  Higher education lecturer  Nuclear engineer  Patent attorney  Science writer

COSMETIC CHEMIST To be a cosmetic chemist, you need to have a Bachelor’s degree in chemistry, biochemistry, chemical engineering or other related field.

However, it is recommended to get a master's degrees or PhD because there’s a higher chance that bigger brands will offer you a job.

software development companies.

Why Cosmetic Chemistry?

The reason why I chose to write about the chemistry in cosmetics is because I’m interested in chemistry as well as make-up.

Someday in the future, I hope to become a successful cosmetic chemist and later on owning a famous company.

The idea of me getting to come up with new product ideas, invent beauty products that is uniquely mine and develop something that people all over the world recognize and love excites me as well as make me happy.

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Interesting Facts 

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Cosmetics were very important part of religion in ancient Egypt. They took really good care of their bodies to honor the gods as well as the spirits. Makeup and body oils were considered sacred.

In ancient times, many people who wore make-up have died because of the ancient cosmetic products which often contained poisonous chemicals.

Nail polish was invented in China 5.000 years ago.

Ordinary people were not allowed to wear them or else they would be executed. Only the rich people were allowed to wear them. Women who painted their nails had to wait for several hours for the nail polish to dry. The first color was a faint pink and anyone who wore them a shade darker were immoral.

In the 18th century, England almost accepted a law that enabled men to divorce their wives if they caught them wearing or using makeup.

However, a century later, Queen Victoria declared public use of cosmetics.

In the old days, small fish scales were used in

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shimmering lipsticks and eye-shadows.

In ancient times, the people created mascara using many different recipes, like for example grinded dust, semiprecious stones and Kohl which were very harmful ingredients.

Modern mascara that we use today is based on water, waxes, thickeners and pigment.

Plastic is used as a cosmetic ingredient and it can be found in hair gels, hairsprays as well as toothpastes.

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Chemicals used in Cosmetics Makeup and skincare products are something that a lot of people put directly onto their skin almost every day. Women wear make-up products the most and the average woman spends almost $150 on beauty products per year. In a 2013 study, one out of every three women said they refuse to leave the house without make-up on. Since beauty products are clearly a big part of many people’s lives. Let’s find out exactly what are in these products and how chemistry plays a role in the ingredients.

Petroleum A mineral oil that is used in hair and skin products that claims to make hair shiny. It is made up of many carbon hydrogens bonded together like methane, butane, ethane, propane. This is one of the ingredients in cosmetics that is known to be contaminated with polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons.

These compounds have been proven to cause cancer, when skin is exposed to them and during the process of being banned from many beauty products.

Eosin

Hair dyes – Hydrogen peroxide

A chemical that is very common in red lipstick. It has a property that causes it to turn dark red when it reacts with collagen in the skin. Fluorescein is the chemical found in eosin that causes it to change color and bromine also contributes to the reaction with skin.

Eosin is also used in biology to dye cells when they are looked at under a microscope because of its staining properties. Chemistry plays a role in the production of eosin because it would be impossible to get enough of it without it being created in a lab.

Dying hair is a process that involves many chemicals to effectively produce a different color. Hydrogen peroxide is very commonly used in many types of bleach for hair or in thus to initiate the process. It works by eliminating melanin which is the main component that gives hair its color. It turns melanin’s double bonds into single bonds which blocks its ability to absorb light, so there’s no color. This causes hair to look bleached or produces a clean slate for dyes

Beauty Products & the number of chemicals they contain: Aftershave= 19 chemicals Gel= 16 chemicals Eye-shadow= 20 chemicals Lipstick= 27 chemicals Foundation= 13 chemicals.

Deodorant= 16 chemicals.

Moisturizer= 40 chemicals.

Nail polish= 22 chemicals Shampoo= 32 chemicals Perfume= 50 chemicals Sunscreen= 23 chemicals Blush= 22 chemicals.

Mascara= 31 chemicals Toner= 22 chemicals

Shave-cream= 19 chemicals Cologne= 22 chemicals Powder= 13 chemicals.

Body-wash= 20 chemicals Hairspray= 21 chemicals Cleanser= 16 chemicals.

Common cosmetics & their ingredients Mascara Pigments such as carbon or iron-oxide and polymer are the product’s main ingredient.

Carbon/iron-oxide creates the color and polymer creates a film that coats the lashes.

Thickening agents such as wax/oil are also used as well as preservatives that extends the life of the product. Oil-water formulas are used as well, they make mascara wash easier off.

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Eye-shadow Base fillers or diluent (like mica, talc or sometimes kaolin clay) are the product’s basic ingredient. Binders like magnesium or zinc compounds are added to make the eye-shadow stick to your skin.

Blush (Rouge) Comes in many different type of forms like powder, gel, cream or liquid. Fillers such as talc or stearic acid can be found in a typical blush. Blush also contains different pigments to provide a rosy complexion. Pigments like mica, zinc-oxide or titanium-oxide can also be added so that it blocks the natural skin color and makes the blush appear stronger.

Foundation It can come as a loose powder, pressed powder or liquid. It generally contains a moisturizer, a colorant and a filler which dilutes the pigment and fills in any wrinkles. The commonly used filler in foundation is talc and bismuth-oxychloride, which is used to give a shimmering glow, is also a common ingredient in foundation.

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Three Influential Female Cosmetic Scientists Florence E. Wall (1893-1988) She first began working as an industrial chemist before becoming one of the first women to be recognized as a cosmetic chemist. In the year 1924, she took a position in the leading manufacturer of hair dyes, Inecto Inc. On 1965, she was inducted into the Cosmetology Hall of fame at the New York fair.

Elizabeth Arden (1884-1966) She’s the founder of the American cosmetics and fragrance company “Elizabeth Arden”. Her birth name was Florence Nightingale Graham, but she changed her name to Elizabeth Arden in 1909 so that her products would sell better. She’s considered as a chemist for formulating, manufacturing and marketing, her cosmetic products in spite of not being formally educated as such.

She was among the first people to apply scientific innovation to the beauty industry as well as the first to introduce eye-makeup to the women of America and make travel-sized products. In 1910, she opened a beauty salon called The Red Door salon.

Trotula de Ruggiero She was an 11th century Italian woman called Trotula de Ruggiero, but she was often called Trotula of Salerno. She was the first person to write a book about beauty products. Some of her remedies look strangely modern, like for example she recommends camphor for sunburn which is also used in modern sunscreens.

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List Of Words 

Emulsifier (noun): A substance that allows two immiscible liquids to come together, in order to combine to form a stable suspension.

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Thickeners (noun): An apparatus for the sedimentation of solids from suspension in a liquid.

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Preservatives (noun): A substance added to food products or to an organic solution to prevent chemical change or bacterial

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Kohl (noun): A substance containing powdered galena (lead Sulphide—PbS) to darken their eyelids.

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Induct (verb): To admit (someone) formally to a post or organization.

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Formulate (verb): To create or prepare methodically.

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Subsequently (adverb): After a particular thing has happened; afterwards.

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Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons: A group of chemicals that occur naturally in coal, crude oil and gasoline.

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Iron oxide: Gives colors like yellow, red and black. When blending different types of this chemical, it can give a natural range of colors.

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Etude House Etude House is a cosmetics brand in South Korea and it is owned by Amore Pacific Corporation, which is a chemical and cosmetic company that was established in 1945. The Amore Pacific Company is the largest of its kind in South Korea and it is among the Top 20 Global Beauty Companies. Amore Pacific is not only popular in South Korea, but also in other Asian countries.

In the year 1990, Etude appeared as a product line and four years later, it became available outside of South Korea. Then in 1997, the company changed the name into Etude Corporation. The brand name ‘’Etude’’ was inspired by Polish composer Federic Chopin’s studies of the piano. Etude means study in French.

In 2005, the company launched Etude House Seoul and it is well known for its cute and elegant interior design. It resembles a perfect doll house.

Two years later, it opened its 100th brand store and in 2009, it opened its 200th brand store. They

launched stores in Taiwan, Singapore, the Philippines, Brunei, Myanmar as well as Japan.

Etude House is one of the South Korea’s veganfriendly beauty brands because they make veganfriendly cosmetics and they do not test their products on animals. In 2008, Amore Pacific voluntarily suspended animal testing.

A personal favorite of mine is the ‘’I’m Blooming’’ line which is composed of natural and organic products to take care of every skin type. I specifically like the ‘’ I’m Blooming Deep Moisture Mist’’ which is an organic and natural mist. It is composed of 81.9% canola honey extracts and this mist moisturizes your skin for the day. I also like the ‘’Dear Girls Lip Balm’’ because it helps my lips stay soft and healthy throughout the day. Also because it is free of preservatives or chemicals and it is made with natural ingredients such as shea butter and cacao seed butter.