A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
ISSUE No1
STYLE WOMEN AUTO CULTURE and even more to discover
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Be Yourself… Be a Gentleman & Dandy.
MADE TO MEASURE FINE ENGLISH GARMENTS Autumn Winter 2011-2012
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A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
CONTENTS
14 EDITOR’S LETTER
ACADEMY
26 CHURCHILL
The politician that marked WWII
58 SAMURAI
The fearless warriors of medieval Japan
38 SILVER ARROWS
“Silberpfeil”, the arrows made by silver
110 PLASTIC SURGERY Learning truths about cosmetic surgery
108 FOOD FOR ACTION
Alimentation is equal to libido enhancement.
54 Champagne Let these bubbles flow
STYLE
48 KILGOUR
Conviction in quality without compromise
74 RIDING
Timeless elegance and style
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CONTENTS
32 BUSINESS CAMOUFLAGE
Reflecting the unparallel personality of yours
PRESENTATION
44 CARTIER
Timeless beauty wearing timeless luxurious pieces
22 IWC
Haute horlogerie, engineered with passion for innovation
68 PENHALIGON’S Creative and innovative perfumery
culture
72 KURT ELLING
The American jazz vocalist, composer and lyricist
106 MENDES
A culinary journey in individualized cuisine
56 STEVE JOBS A tribute to a beautiful mind
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CONTENTS
EXPERIENCE
16 ORIENT EXPRESS
Traveling on the rails of the legendary train
30 AUCTIONS
Places that speak of exceptional art
62 TENNIS
The invincible Serb, the best tennis player in the world
92 HOTELS
Indulge yourself and celebrate insouciance
66 POLO
Swing your mallet hard!
credits Founder/Editor Dimitris Bekiaris
Executive Editor Theodoros Kotsopoulos Art Editor Flora Vintzileou Contributing Editors G. Vassilikos P. Karafillidis T. Georgopoulos N. Tatsi T. Paraskevopoulos Photos by: Getty Images, Thinkstock, Pixelformula, Shutterstock Courtesy of our fellow clients and partners Translation & addaptation of texts by: GDmag team Cover Page: Photography: Vangelis Kyris Model: M. Terzakis Hair & Make up: Orient Styling: Pierre Nicola P.12
GD MAG - GENTLEMAN & DANDY MAGAZINE is published by Neuhaus Media GmbH/Switzerland. All rights reserved, copyright ©2012 by Neuhaus Media GmbH, Aegeristrasse 27, CH-6300 ZUG, Zurich, Switzerland. Reproduction in whole or in part without the permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited according to international law. The content as well as the opinions expressed by the writers do not express necessarily the publisher and the editor of GENTLEMAN & DANDY MAGAZINE. Editorial enquiries should be directed to the Editor. While every reasonable care will be undertaken by the editor, unsolicited materials will not be returned unless accompanied by a self-addressed envelope and sufficient return postage. Head office: Neuhaus Media GmbH Aegeristrasse 27 6300 ZUG, Zurich Switzerland T: +41789077030 W: www.gd-mag.com Editor’s Office: editor@gd-mag.com Press Room: press@gd-mag.com Advertise with us: ad@gd-mag.com
G
etting older makes you think things differently. What I came to realize among other things is that life is a pure whimsy. Emotions can be fascinating, the environment in which we live our lives sometimes is bigger than we thought in the first place, our inner will is a product for scientific research and at the end we might realize that is even stronger than we thought.
All significant creations always start from the things we like; the things that fascinate us, making us feel nice and simply fill us up with joy.
“Gentleman & Dandy”
is a mean to this end. A multimedia magazine composed in all upto-date formats –iPad application, internet site and flipbook– serving, thus, through the convenience of modern Even so, the everyday routine leaves us dilapidated. The technology the classical values of man’s needs. The inpolitical conditions frustrate us, the teractive and appealing technolrelationships with our close enviogy used in this magazine framronment are continuously harder ing its multilevel subjects is what and communication, as much as the tech industry can offer today. we want to believe that is further Moreover, when cutting-edge improved these days, it is essentechnology serves as a vehicle tially drifted by the frenetic rhythm for communicating the principles of the urban living, becoming even and the interests that men share more hollow in an attempt to baltoday then it paves a new way for ance between “supposedly” and knowledge and opens the doors our “personal interests”. of the mind to new horizons.
A man should always create something new. However always in style. His personal style.
All these controversies are some
Having as profound ambition of the elements composing the everyday life of modern to remain true to itself and its readers, Gentleman & men. The latter many times feel lost among the brain- Dandy represents the vibe and the actual opinions of storming of “desires”, “musts” and the “Itches”. He is men that feature their own style, that share ideas and called upon to find the right path to follow or, even ideals opposed to commonness. It reflects men that better, to open a new one because men have to open have the need to create something new, something roads, they must withstand the rising difficulties; men better than what we had until now, something that will are fighters and hunters by nature. get us one step ahead.
“ Style can’t be just the clothes, the various accessories, cars and fashion. Style is the mind, the soul, fantasy and courtesy. Style is courage, freedom and passion. It is true friendship. Style is the temperament.”
But what is style? What lies behind the magic word that seems to be a core notion for the vast bulk of both print and electronic media, on which almost every part of the fashion industry is based on?
All these characteristics make a man a Gentleman & a Dandy, all the things that add a different yet marvelous touch in our daily lives filling us with strength in order to continue our journey.
The man with style shares some of these features or even all of them. He has will and perseverance. Values and ideals. He has common sense and emotion. He can work under all conditions and he is not afraid to take chances. He is affectionate, yet tough and effective. Respects his history and his past and makes bold steps into the future.
Gentleman & Dandy is an idea, a concept of life for the modern man. Man is the primary focus. A club of friends sharing the same ideas, the same concerns, the same interests and the same ideals. Gentleman & Dandy is an “attitude” towards life, the life that we dreamed about. A man has passions and he should be passionate with everything concerning him. The journey begins... Fasten your seatbelts. In the coming years there will be significant turbulences in our colorless reality. Explore the ‘Gentleman & Dandy’ inside you and be yourself...
However, he has obsessions too. In fact he is full of obsessions. Obsessions of his old faded jeans, the watch his father gave to him, a vintage car he bought when he got that job abroad, or even ... even of that old vinyl that he used to hear together with that girl when he was young.... his first love in high school.
You deserve it.
Dimitris Bekiaris Founder/Editor
EXPERIENCE
A A JOURNEY JOURNEY ON ON
ORIENT-EXPRESS ORIENT-EXPRESS travel travel in in vintage vintage style style Georges Nagelmackers’ business sense transformed what was the slow and dull journey to the Orient, by introducing a new era in railway transport.
A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
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e overcame bureaucracy by acquiring mobility rights for all railway lines and thus abolished the tiresome and time-consum-
ing disembarcation at the frontiers of every state. He circulated ultra-luxurious trains and radically improved on the services offered to the public. From its very first journey, in 1883, the Orient Express pampered its passengers with the finest of services, far surpassing the usual standards. Setting off from Paris, the luxurious steam train passed through the Alps, reached Budapest and Bucharest and finally arrived in Constantinople. During its 100-year long history, the legendary carriage hosted kings and princes, spies and diplomats, celebrities and everymen alike. It was shot, bombarded, cut off for weeks during blizzards. During World War II, the Orient Express its routes came to a halt and started again after the war, only to be overshadowed by the ever more popular air travel. P.17
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In 1977, enthusiastic businessman James B. Sherwood another, but it also transports you mentally from the past became the owner of two of the legendary wagons after to the present. All routes on the legendary train live up to a Sotheby’s auction in Monte Carlo. He went on to in-
the expectations of its demanding clientelle. Everything
vest 16 million dollars to reconstruct 35 vintage carriages.
both inside and out, from staff uniforms to the cutlery
Thus, in May 1982, the train came back on track, on the used in the restaurant and the ultra-luxurious furnishings magical Venice to London route. To this day, its glittering in the wagons themselves reflect the atmosphere of an era, wagons continue this amazing and ever so romantic trip.
since the train has been refurbished in its entirety without
It transports you in a geographic sense from one area to the slightest intrusion in its design and in its style.
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“Any journey on
the Orient Express
touches upon the magical.”
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The unspoilt nature of Great Britain, the atmosphere of european capitals, the wild jungle of Southeast Asia define each route, respectively. The world of the Orient-Express is now truly interna- much as the places, that provide the most interesting stotional and passengers can enjoy a similar luxury experi- ries to take home. ence on board the British Pullman and Northen Belle day
The dress code strictly forbids jean and casual attire.
trains around the United Kingdom, The Royal Scotsman Perhaps it is the best way to preserve the essence of the luxury train in the Scottish Highlands, Eastern & Oriental train’s better times.
Express luxury train in South East Asia and the Road To The Orient Express Hotels is a highly dynamic corporaMandalay Cruise in Burma (Myanmar).
tion, in full or partial control of 44 top luxury hotels in
The Orient-Express has always attracted glamorous and 21 countries and organises recreational trips along four fascinating passengers, and, right up to today, few guests legendary routes:
disembark without a story to tell. Whether it’s anecdotes the Royal Scotsman, the UK Tour, the Venice Simplon swapped over cocktails in the Bar Car or fleeting con- (original Orient Express), the Eastern and Oriental Exversations in the corridors, it is invariably the people, as press. Each of these routes has its own charm.
By T. Paraskevopoulos
Translation & addaptation GDmag
Photos: Copyright to Orient-Express Hotels (UK) Ltd.
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Whatever you may go for, you can rest assured that quality is guaranteed and your journey will be a truly distinguished experience, full of romance, enthusiasm, traveling along routes that bring together the most famous cities in the world.
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PRESENTATION
THE ELEGANT WAY TO STOP TIME PORTOFINO CHRONOGRAPH
Does a chronograph have a place in a watch family widely regarded as the soul of discretion? Certainly, as long as the elements designed for recording cumulative time are as smoothly integrated as those within the Portofino Chronograph. The combination of elegance with dynamism is reminiscent of a 1960s sports car or the timeless style of a sleek Italian speedboat that, to this day, has lost none of its attraction.
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S
imply being able to stop time: it’s something most of us would like to do occasionally, including the fans of the Portofino watch family. It was for these fans and all other devotees of elegant sports watches that IWC Schaffhausen launched the Portofino Chronograph in 2007. But, unlike a car with ultra-wide tyres and big spoilers, it makes no exhibition of its sporting ambitions. If anything, it has the same exciting, but somehow understated, dynamism of an Italian sports car from the 1960s. The displays and stopwatch controls are so elegantly integrated that they underscore the classical shape and design of the Portofino Chronograph. In 2011, the design of the Portofino Chronograph will be even more finely balanced, its lines more discreet than ever before. The diameter has been increased minimally by one millimetre to 42,while the slightly more rounded contours of the case and gently flowing strap horns are distinctly pleasing on the eye. They are complemented by slim chronograph push-buttons with eye-catching heads of the type you might find in the cockpit of an Italian sports car. Although equally restrained, the chronograph dial is perfectly functional too. The cumulative stopwatch displays are
aligned vertically, with the 30-minute counter at “12 o’clock” and the 12-hour counter at “6”. IWC’s designers permitted themselves one tiny optical extravagance and made the figure 30 in the minute counter, and the 12 in the hour counter, stand out in red. By contrast, the small seconds at “9 o’clock” is decidedly low key and elegantly counterbalances the day and date displays on the opposite side of the dial. The colour of the displays matches the colour of the dial in question. The buyer has a choice of a silver-plated or black dial. The appliquéd Roman numerals and indices look almost as if one could reach out and touch them, thanks also to the sapphire glass, which has an antireflective coating on both sides. The Portofino Chronograph is powered by the tried-and-tested 79320 calibre with a 44-hour power reserve and automatic winding with a ball-bearing rotor. Apart from the classical alligator leather straps, the Portofino Chronograph is also available with a cool but snug-fitting Milanese mesh bracelet, which underscores the watch’s elegant character. The new bracelets can be ordered in three different lengths and adjusted in five-millimetre increments to ensure a perfect fit on any wrist.
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PORTOFINO CHRONOGRAPH
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Features
Movement
Mechanical movement Chronograph Day and date display Small hacking seconds
Calibre 79320 Frequency 28,800 A/ h / 4 Hz Jewels 25 Power reserve 44 h Winding automatic
Watch Stainless-steel case
Black dial Milanese mesh bracelet in stainless steel or black alligator leather strap with pin buckle in stainless steel stainless-steel case
Silver-plated dial Milanese mesh bracelet in stainless steel or dark brown alligator leather strap with pin buckle in stainless steel Glass sapphire, convex, antireflective coating on both sides Water-resistant 3 bar Diameter 42 mm Height 13.5 mm
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ACADEMY
Sir
WINSTON
SPENCER
The politician that marked the Second World War with his dynamic character and his courageous spirit.
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ir Winston Leonard Spencer Churchill was
born on November 30, 1874 in Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire. He was the son of Lord Randolph Churchill and the American Jennie Jerome. He studied at Harrow and the Royal Military College at Sandhurst, and in 1895 was sent to India with a cavalry commission. He was a war correspondent, covering the Cuban revolution against Spain (1895), as well as the British campaigns in India
01
(1897), Sudan (1898) and South Africa (1899). His daring escape from a prison camp (that of the Dutch colonial farmers in South Africa, known as Boers) made him a national hero and actually marked the beginning of his political career. In May 1940, Neville Chamberlain resigned as prime minister of Britain and Winston Churchill took his place; a political career that lasted 60 years.
02 01. Sir Winston Leonard Spencer Churchill 02. US President Franklin D. Roosevelt (1882 - 1945) with British Prime Minister Winston Churchill (1874 - 1965) after the Casablanca Conference of World War II
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In his private life, apart from his employment in journalism, was over-fond of reading, a painter and a writer from the age of 26. Raised mainly by his nanny, he built an honest and noble character. In an era of women’s emancipation, where they made a bold step in order to “emerge” from the Victorian era of male domination and from prays are transformed into hunters of powerful men with a singleminded determination, he never wavered in his devotion to his wife, Clemmy. Churchill was irresistibly witty, with refined style and ethos. It was the lion that roared when the British Empire needed him. Historians attribute Churchill with being an effective leader due to his ability to inspire people, regardless of the seemingly bleak circumstances. He also had a unique strategic insight and an imperturbable personality. Everyone remembers him with cigar in hand. A habit he acquired in Cuba. His favorite cigar brands were “Romeo y Julieta” and “La Aroma de Cuba” (which is no longer available). His favorite drink was whiskey and soda, starting immediately after breakfast. Besides, all great men shared a passion. “I drink a great deal.
I sleep a little, and I smoke cigar after cigar. That is why I am two-hundred-percent form” was his answer in 1945 to the leader of the opposition who was expressing his concerns for his habits. The term “iron curtain”, that described the boundary that separated the Warsaw Pact countries from the NATO countries, is attributed to him. In 1951, Winston Churchill was voted again as the prime minister of U.K. He resigned, however, in 1955, but remained an MP almost until his death. Beyond his political achievements, he left a legacy of an impressive number of publications and in 1953 he also won the Nobel Prize in Literature. Twelve years later he died. Perhaps there is no better way to describe his true character than with the own words of the Hungarian-American historian John Lukacs: “He loved life very much and he made life possible for many of us because he had a very old, and very strong, belief in the possibilities of human decency and of human greatness....In the long and slow and sad music of humanity he once sounded an English and noble note which some of us were blessed to receive and to remember.” By T. Paraskevopoulos
Translation & addaptation GDmag
Photos by: Getty Images
i
http://www.nobelprize.org/nobel_prizes/literature/laureates/1953/churchill-bio.html http://www.winstonchurchill.org/ http://www.winston-churchill-leadership.com P.28
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03
04
05 03. British Prime Minister Winston Churchill (1874 - 1965) waving to crowds gathered in Whitehall on VE Day, 8th May 1945 04. 5th June 1943: Government workers in Downing Street, London, cheering Winston Churchill (1874 - 1965) on his return to London from America. 05. Students from the Sydney Cooper School preparing a large poster which will form part of the decoration for the Westgate Tower in Canterbury’s Weapons Week. A tank, a warship and Winston Churchill feature largely, with the slogan ‘Fight For Freedom’.
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EXPERIENCE
AUCTION
“Sold to Mr...”
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A
uction’s existence will take us back in time, as the first auctions took place in Babylon, according to Herodotus, for slave selling or even for men to buy a bride. However, Romans were the ones that evolved auctions further. They used auctions in order to liquidate the assets of debtors or after a military victory in order for the soldiers to bid on the spoils of war.
of Sotheby’s. He probably couldn’t imagine that his auction house would be one of the most distinguished in the world. Today Sotheby’s conducts approximately 250 auctions each year in salerooms around the world and handles works in over 70 collecting categories. Some of the most interesting and highly valuable items sold by the House include real treasures like the Napoleon’s St Helena library, the Duchess of Windsor’s jewels, the Estate In the modern world now, the first auction Houses of Mrs Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Rembrandt’s started to hit the hammer during the 18th century - Aristotle Contemplating the Bust of Homer, Rusoon after the French Revolution. They are classified bens’ Massacre of the Innocents, and Picasso’s Garsince in four main categories: There is the “English çon à la Pipe. auction”, which is also known as open ascending price auction, due to the fact that all the auctioneers In the first permanent auction room of James Chrisbid openly and the one with the highest bid wins. The tie in Pall Mall, two chamber pots, a pair of sheets, “Dutch auction” is actually the exact opposite of the two pillow cases and four irons were sold. This was English one, with the price descending until someone the begging of another great auction House named takes the offer. However, this interesting auction type after the surname of the founder. Christie’s today is is not widely used. The third category is the “Sealed a name and place that speaks of extraordinary art, first price auction”, also known as a first-price sealed- unparalleled service and expertise. The House offers bid auction (FPSB), in which the highest bidder wins, over 450 sales annually in over 80 categories, includbut the bids are made in secret and revealed all at the ing all areas of fine and decorative arts, jewelry, phoend simultaneously. Last but not least, the “Vickrey tographs, collectibles, wine, and more. auction”, also known as a sealed-bid second-price auction, which is similar to the latter, except from the You might think that auctions are places where fact that the winner pays the second highest bid. spontaneous and impulsive purchases take place, In 1744 the London bookseller Samuel Baker sold but this is not true. Be properly prepared and get the library of Sir John Stanley in the first auction yourself in there for some bargain. By N. Tatsi
Translation & addaptation GDmag
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STYLE
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Business camouflage
Aristocratic, with a diachronic elegance & nobility, Holland & Sherry fabrics allure men who select them either to be dressed for a business meeting or to feel the luxury and elegance of Seville Row in their personal moments.
ACADEMY
Monoco GP August 8th 1937
A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
Silver
arrows Bright stars on track
Benvenutti a Bordo! A wonderful girl welcomed me as I was entering the blue Bell helicopter. Mille grazie! I responded and sat on the side of the pilot. We started flying over the Autodromo of Enzo & Dino Ferrari in Imola, Italy. I was as excited as it gets, looking from above the breathtaking view of the prefecture of Emilia Romagna, when I realized that I was daydreaming about having wings on my arms… During the return and flying closer to the formula track I distinguished clearly the formulitos that had already started to warm up their tires. Kimi’s and David’s shining Mercedes - McLaren singled out.
They were gleaming!
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T
he first evolution tests of the formulas started in the circuit Ricardo Tormo of the sunny Valencia. Just a few days ago in the Mercedes - Benz Museum in Stuttgart, the unveiling of W02 took place. The spectacular silver arrows of GP Team that raced for the season’s title; hard work but achievable.
The new car doesn’t have an extreme design, just like last year. However, it boasts a dynamic appearance with aggressive lines. The differences are concentrated at the “snout”, which is elevated, as well as at the smaller side airways and the engine’s cover. Concerning the color, silver is combined with petrol, the color of the team’s sponsor. In some parts of the body, the color looks as if it is fading and the carbon fibers are revealed beneath, honoring the spirit of 1934.
Definitely this is the outcome of an exceptional work! But why silver? Is it just due to the impressive effect of the color? Silver is the basic racing color of the German manufacturers taking part in the world championship since 1934. In previous years the cars were “dressed” in white -the German national color. I would like to remind you that the Italian formulas are painted in red, the English in green, the French in blue and the Belgian in yellow.
Mercedes SSK of 1931 was called the White Elephant. Its driver was Rudolf Caracciola, maybe the best German driver of all times (Michael Schumacher included) who was one of the two drivers of M GP Team. In 1932, under the instructions of the state bank of Saxony, which understood that investments in the saxonic car industry were in danger, Audiwerke, Horchwerke and Zschopauer Motorenwerke DKW merged and formed Auto Union AG. The German company Auto Union AG in order to empower its public image decided in 1934 to go into higher level Motorsports, i.e. the Grand Prix. They presented the work of Ferdinand Porsche and his collaborators, the Auto Union Type A. It was a real challenger for Daimler Benz, in a period that were based financially on the political decisions of the National Socialist Party, for obvious reasons… In the German GP in Nürburgring the Spring of 1934, the Association Internationale des Automobile Clubs Reconnus (the later FIA) defined as maximum car weight -tires, fuels and lubricants excluded- the 750 kilograms, instead of the 900 kilograms that applied in previous years. In that framework, the manufacturers were free to use the desired engine, with or without a turbo charger. It was one of the minimum conditions for the design of the racing cars at that time. The white German Daimler Benz Mercedes W25 with the outstanding 354 HP was weighed for technical check and turned the scales at 751 kilograms. The German team, since there was no way to further lighten the car by the removal of any mechanical part, decided, under the order of the race manager Alfred Neubauer, to remove the white color completely from the body, leaving the silver plated metal exposed.
By T. Paraskevopoulos Translation & addaptation GDmag
Illustration by Djordje Jovanovic http://djordejovanovic.com/blog/
Illustration by Djordje Jovanovic http://djordejovanovic.com/blog/
Silver Arrows are definitely a myth.
In that way, the German team managed to remove 1200 grams and to meet the criteria of the technical check. The next day, racing day, the German driver Manfred von Brauchitsch drove the exquisite, shining silver Mercedes W25. The press of the time started to write about the Silberpfeile (Silver Arrows), which won many important Grand Prix races in the future, creating an absolute myth. The German companies left behind the white color and instead of that adopted silver. Even for their conventional cars introduced in their color lists, most of the German automotive companies showcase the Silver Arrow grey color. This color was adopted also by Porsche, but the only German manufacturer that keeps the traditional white color for the races is BMW. Mercedes Benz is one of the most important manufacturers of the world having a historical and racing quality that is unique. We should not forget that even though the British McLaren divorced from Mercedes, it features one of the latter’s engines!
Nonetheless, as the logo of the German company implies, Silver Arrows are real shining stars. Stature, quality and of course mechanical power and accuracy is all it takes.
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Francesco Escalar © Cartier 2011
PRESENTATION
Women we Love P.44
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Monica Bellucci for
F
or a woman to be a symbol of beauty after 45 even today is considered exceptionally difficult.
However, nothing seems to be common when we talk about Monica Bellucci. Born a star, she took the opportunity that the famous Italian director Dino Risi gave her in the TV film Vita coi Figli. The rest just came naturally. Lately, among other things, she also was the protagonist in the campaign of the renowned French jeweler and watchmaker, Cartier. Sexier than ever, she makes us dream a world of timeless luxury and unique taste, in her own, special way.
Enjoy her‌ Pendant earrings, ring and bracelet in white gold, pink and purple sapphires, brilliant-cut diamonds. P.45
Francesco Escalar Š Cartier 2011
A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
Earrings in platinum, rubellites, onyx, brilliant-cut diamonds. Ring in platinum, oval-shaped sapphire, aquamarine, brilliant-cut diamonds. Ring in platinum, one ruby, rock crystal, brilliant-cut diamonds. Ring in platinum, one orange sapphire, one citrine, brilliant-cut diamonds.
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Perfume pendant in white gold, one tourmaline, rubellites, rubellite beads, rock crystal, black lacquer, brilliant-cut diamonds. Ring in platinum, oval-shaped rubies, brilliant-cut diamonds. Secret watch (unique piece which does not belong to the Sortilège de Cartier collection) in white gold, 1 engraved rubellite, rubellite and onyx beads, brilliants.
Francesco Escalar © Cartier 2011
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STYLE
Masters of their art With the recent revival in the return to tailoring, Dandy goes to investigate Savile Row experts Kilgour, to discover exactly what the bespoke experience entails and why the brand remains the obvious choice for the discerning, style conscious customer. P.48
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A
s one of the oldest and most distinguished tailoring houses on Savile Row, Kilgour is at the forefront of sartorial craftsmanship and is truly respected in its
field. Since opening its doors in 1882, Kilgour has crafted the most exquisitely shaped suits and shirts for its discerning and ever-loyal clientele and has successfully managed to walk the line between classic and contemporary, counting Cary Grant and Fred Astaire among its past clients.
Kilgour’s elegant premises, a gallery like art window offering passers by a view into the workshop below, makes Kilgour a name to be reckoned with on Savile Row. The brand’s acquisition by luxury group JMH Lifestyle in February 2008 signalled a true turning point in Kilgour’s history. The changeover saw Kilgour’s style finessed and fine-tuned, and began the introduction of a refined ready-to-wear collection that now sits beautifully alongside the bespoke offering on which Kilgour has built its unsurpassable reputation.
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Kilgour is the epitome of English excellence in modern The demand for such exquisite craftsmanship has meant that day tailoring; a handmade bespoke suit from Savile Row each year, Kilgour visits the USA taking its bespoke suit making is the gentleman’s equivalent of haute couture. The ulti-
service to the US customer. These trips are part of an annual trend
mate in indulgence and style, the personal relationship
that sees Savile Row’s top tailoring houses migrate to America to
that develops between a gentleman and his tailor is a
promote their services and suits. Due to the unprecedented level
time-honored part of the service at Kilgour. A great suit of demand for consultations with the Kilgour tailors on their last begins with the quality of the fabric, requiring not just the
visit, the brand are currently planning a greater number of trips
skill of the cutter but the ability to convey the individuality
for the year ahead which will incorporate more cities allowing a
of the wearer to the finest detail – the cut of the lapel, the
greater number of customers to experience the joy of Kilgour’s
drape of the shoulder. It is these skills, which set Kilgour
sartorial elegance. The next USA tour is planned for October
apart as true artisans in the trade.
and will take in New York, Houston, Miami and San Francisco.
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Ready-to-wear For those who fit well into conventional suit sizes, Kilgour’s ready-to-wear collection is the ultimate choice. Retaining the perfect balance between innovation and tradition, the collection combines timeless luxury classics with contemporary details and fabrics. These pieces mirror the beautiful silhouette of Kilgour’s bespoke items and are available to buy in a selection of fabrics in store on Savile Row. In addition to its famous suits, Kilgour also houses a collection of other exquisite pieces to complement its staple pieces, from the finest overcoats, bespoke and ready-to-wear shirts and the softest knitwear, to bow ties and ties, cufflinks and small leather goods.
Shirts Kilgour bespoke shirts are individually cut and sewn by tailors and seamstresses, and feature up to twelve styles of collar, personalized initialing, French or button cuffs, and mother of pearl buttons. Tailored from the most luxurious cottons, silks and voiles in an unlimited range of colours, the bespoke shirt is the ideal complement to the perfect suit.
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Bespoke Nothing compares to investing in the iconic style and timeless elegance afforded by a bespoke Kilgour suit. Each suit is instantly recognisable while also remaining absolutely unique in its cut and style, with a full chest and specifically shaped shoulder and lapel on the coat, with trousers featuring the signature three buttons ‘Daks Top’ ensuring a perfect fit. The fact that Kilgour bespoke suits are measured, cut, produced and basted entirely at 8 Savile Row and the brand remains true to one tailor, one garment system and employs only the finest specialists in their disciplines, makes Kilgour’s offering unique. Clients can be reassured by the fact that they will be embarking on a journey to receive a garment that is truly special and unique. Each suit takes some eighty man hours to complete and a set of measurements is taken for each customer’s specific shape, creating a unique pattern individual to the wearer, drafted from scratch. The brand is devoted to absolute quality and attention to detail achieved only by working with the most skilled artisans and cutters crafting on a small scale, with a high level of handfinishing and hand-stitching.
Kilgour - No. 8 Savile Row, London, W1S 3PE Tel: (0)20 3283 8941 www.kilgour.com
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A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
ACADEMY
Champagne for everyone… Braking the myths
W
ine but still not like the rest. The wine coming from the grapes that grow in the French province of Champagne remains at least for the last 150 years the queen of wines worldwide. Synonym of feast, class or even luxury and success, champagne still fascinates many palates and is widely consumed throughout the globe. Even those wines featuring similar characteristics (from California to Asia sparkling wines are abusively called – sometimes even on the label – “Champagnes”) confirm the reputation of the legendary wine. But set aside the imitations and let us wander into the magical world of the genuine, real champagne. For many, champagnes are not that different. Apart from the differences between “rosé” and “white”, sweet or dry, there is a common perception that champagne is just a sparkling drink. This perception is far from true. The microclimate of the province of Champagne produces several different types of champagnes. The wine lovers and connoisseurs know that champagne is a wine - classy, yet wine - and of course it should be treated as such. With this as a starting point let’s break down some myths about the famous wine: P.54
F irst myth: “Champagnes have pretty much the same taste.” Champagnes are produced from three primary grape varieties (chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot meunier). Hence, these varieties are responsible for the different aromas and flavors that the drink can offer. Moreover, champagne is usually “blended”; that is more than one grape varieties are used or even wines produced in different years and at different rates each time (which of course remains a closely-guarded secret of the oenologist in charge). It is very likely in a single bottle to have 20 or 40 different wines mixed together. The answer to the question of how is it possible a complex process like this to produce a homogenous wine lies in the art of winery. Second myth: “Champagne is for dessert only.” The delicate palate of a champagne connoisseur knows that the acidity and minerality of a champagne cannot be “married”, by rule, with sweet flavors, except from the “démi-sec” or “sec” champagnes. Depending on the type of champagne, the latter may be an excellent wine for aperitif or even for seafood, fish, etc. (the combination of sushi can offer a unique gustative experience). Even the sour flavors of Asian cuisine can be matched beautifully with champagne and some classical dishes of the finest Mediterranean cuisine can be an incomparable match for an aged champagne.
A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
Third myth: “Champagne cannot be aged.” This is partly true for champagnes without chronology (for which wines of several production years are used). Of course, under the appropriate storage conditions, they can also age for a good couple of years or maybe a little more. Vintage champagnes, however, depending on the year, can be very good for aging (especially years like 1990 or even 2002). Nonetheless, the bubbles might have weakened or even disappeared, but this does not mean that the champagne is stale. Forth myth: “Good champagne is expensive champagne.” General comment: The wine connoisseur (and not only) never describes the quality through price (the reverse however is common). The same goes for champagne. There are exceptional champagnes at low prices which have nothing to envy of the big brands. There are small producers who can overcome many of the latter. The difficult part is to spot and estimate them. Here’s a challenge, more demanding than purchasing a well-known champagne is to discover the medium or small producers that in their wineries ferment some small “diamonds”. And a tip: for God’s sake, when you open a bottle of fine champagne avoid the flying cork! Apart from losing the essential and sprightly bubbles that raise the fragrance on top of the glass it can be considered tragically inappropriate. So, fill your glasses and let the flavor of this unique nectar to fondle your palate.
Champagne glossary: NV (non-vintage): most Champagne you encounter will be NV, or non-vintage. Non-vintage Champagne is released when it is ready, so drink within a year or two after you purchase or receive a bottle. Vintage (or Millesime): vintage Champagne is a blend of wines from a particular year and it should be 39 months old before it is sold. Brut: a French term referring to the driest (least sweet) champagne. Sec: French term meaning “dry” or lacking sugar; however on champagne it means that the wine is sweet. Demi-sec: a French term signifying that the particular champagne is medium-sweet. Blanc de blancs: a champagne that is made only from white grape varieties (usually Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc). Blanc de noir: a champagne term denoting that the white wine was made from black grapes (usually Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier or Wrotham Pinot). Cuvee: refers to a specific blend used in the wining of a particular champagne. By: TH. G Georgopoulos Translation & addaptation GDmag
Photos by: Getty Images
i
http://www.champagne.fr/en/default.aspx www.veuve-clicquot.com www.moet.com www.domperignon.com
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CULTURE
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Steve Jobs A tribute to a beautiful mind
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any people take the view that one person died and 100 million cried, whereas 100 million die and no one cares. Yet, one thing is for certain, Jobs’ death was a tragic loss for the world, full stop. If he sees us now he laughs. He was the one that said that if you live each day as if it is your last, then someday you’ll most certainly be right. And that is so true. Cynical as he was, he lived a turbulent, withal a wonderful life. The life of a genius.
Steve Jobs was a member of Homebrew Computer Club, California when he was only 19 years old, but he was actually never a computer freak. He was never a nerd, a geek counting endless hours in his room, alone with his computer avoiding friends and girls. Maybe some thought that a successful technology visionary should have the abovementioned childhood. Think again. Steve Jobs left college already in the first semester; he slept in friend’s houses and gathered tin cans in order to buy some food. Yes, he worked for Atari along with his close friend, Steve Wosniak, but the only thing he had in mind was to get some spiritual enlightenment. A true adventurer as he was traveled to India from which he returned after one year a Buddhist. That “clicked” his mind.
Nonetheless, no one could ever imagine what fate was holding for Jobs. Although he was no workaholic, no computer guru (yet), he was a passionate source of ideas, grid and optimism. When a reporter asked his opinion about the ideal business model he answered that his model for business is… The Beatles. “They were four guys that kept each other’s negative tendencies in check; they balanced each other. And the total was greater than the sum of the parts.
“Great things in business are never done by one person, they are done by a team of people” His relation with Apple can be described as a stormy love. The people he brought to the company were the ones that showed him the exit, but he took his revenge by direct antagonism. He broaden his business activities and in approximately ten years he welcomed his old company back, the latter on her knees. So, he took her by the hand and once again made it what it is today.
Steve Jobs was a man with a dream for his life and he managed to stay “hungry and foolish”, making love the driving force for his renaissance. For many he was the one and only of his generation. For the companies he created, for his tumultuous entrepreneurial life and, sure enough, for his exciting innovations. Thank you Steve. By T. Kotsopoulos
Translation & addaptation GDmag
Photo by: Getty Images
ACADEMY
The Samurai
A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
The Samurai (OR: 侍), was a Japanese class of warriors,
This was the impetus for the growth of the samurai as a
fearless and skillful, who essentially dominated Japan for
separate and well respected social class.Samurai em-
more than 600 years, from the mid 12th century until the ployed a range of weapons, such as bows and arrows, late 19th century. Their position in the socio-political context spears and guns; but their most famous weapon and their of Japanese feudalism was important and they served sev-
symbol was the sword.
eral times as regulators of the flow of historical events. They
Generally, the samurai society was male dominated,
gained worldwide fame for their skills in handling weapons,
but historical records indicate that the female members
especially the samurai sword
of the clan often sported
or katana (刀), and their ac-
samurai fighting spirit and
complishments gave birth to
cared about issues of hon-
numerous legends.
or and duty that could be
The word samurai derives
compared to that of men.
from the Japanese verb sa-
The women were trained
burau (those who serve the
also in the arts of battle
mobility)and was first used
and over time became skill-
to describe the personal ser-
ful in the use of the lance.
vants of the rich and power-
Nevertheless, the wife, or
ful landowners of the eighth
okugatasama
(meaning:
century in Japan. Some of these landowners were aristocrats one who remains in the home), was left to manage all who had fled the royal court in Kyoto to seek their fortune
household affairs, care for the children, and perhaps
elsewhereand gradually created a network of tribes or “fami- even defend the home forcibly. For this reason, many lies”. Over the years, the central government of the country
women of the samurai class were trained in wielding a
lost its strength, while the law and order were no longer fol-
polearm called a naginata(薙刀)or a special dagger
lowed by the different families which had now the ability to
called the kaiken(懐剣)which they could use to protect
protect their land and their people by themselves.
their household, family, and honor if the need arose.
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A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
The samurai were supposed to lead their lives according to the The samurai culture was gradually influenced by the philosophies ethic code of bushido (the way of the warrior, 武士道). Strongly
of Buddhism and Zen. The Buddhist concept of reincarnation and
Confucian in nature, Bushido stressed concepts such as loyalty
rebirth led samurai to abandon torture and needless killing, while
to one’s master, self discipline and respect, as well as ethical be- some samurai gave up violence and became Buddhist monks afhavior. After a defeat, some samurai chose to commit ritual sui- ter realizing how fruitless their killings were. cide (seppuku, 切腹) by cutting their abdomen rather than being
The samurai’s codes have been incorporated into the Japanese
captured or dying a dishonorable death. An important part of this culture; the idea of offering one’s life to the country or committing code was committing ritual suicide to preserve the value of the suicide in order to avoid being captured by the enemy have been samurai. Otherwise a warrior was considered an outcast and so- frequent acts for a long time after the extinction of the samurai. cial environment to repel. So, those who did not follow the code
During the World War II, the act of suicide for one’s country had
were eventually transformed into
become prominent. The tradition
drunkards, beggars, thieves and
of death instead of defeat, cap-
killers. The outcry was such that
ture, and perceived shame was
many resorted eventually to ritual
deeply entrenched in Japanese
suicide or threatened wealthy
military culture. It was one of the
lords to commit suicide in their
primary traditions in the samurai
house if they did not give them
life and the Bushido code: loyalty
food and money.
and honor until death.The follow-
Before the emergence of the
ing is a famous paragraph from
samurai as an organized and
the Kamikaze pilot’s manual, lo-
professional military class, sep-
cated in their cockpits:
puku was an act totally alien
Transcend life and death. When
to the culture and beliefs of the
you eliminate all thoughts about
Japanese. The study of the early
life and death, you will be able to
history of Japan reveals that the
totally disregard your earthly life.
Japanese were more interested in the good lifeand detached
This will also enable you to concentrate your attention on eradi-
themselves from the painful death. The samurai were ordered
cating the enemy with unwavering determination, meanwhile re-
to commit seppuku either to punish or not to suffer ignominious inforcing your excellence in flight skills. death falling into the hands of their enemy. Therefore, for them the
Despite the purely military structure, the samurai had a great in-
ritual suicide was unequivocal demonstration of honor, courage, fluence on the politics of Japan from the late 11th century, takdedication and moral character. Of course, when they were on
ing the place of the aristocracy. Although the class was formally
the battlefield, they had to do it without special preparation. In
abolished in 1868, samurai titles were user widely until 1945 in
other cases, however,the seppuku was a ritualized process that re- various state offices. Even today in some rural areas of Japan, the quired the presence of witnesses and considerable preparation. descendants of the samurai feudal lords enjoy great respect.
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Samurai’s armor description 1. Chest armor 胴 Dou or dō, a chest armour made up of iron and or leather plates of various sizes and shapes with pendentskusazuri made from iron or leather plates hanging from the front and back of the dou (dō) to protect the lower body and upper leg. 2. Helmet 兜 Kabuto, a helmet made from iron or leather plates (from 3 to over 100 plates) riveted together. A neck guard (shikoro) made from several layers of curved iron or leather strips was suspended from the bottom edge of the kabuto. 3. Spaulders袖 Sode, large rectangular shoulder protection made from iron and or leather plates. 4. Cuisse 佩楯 Thigh guards which tied around the waist and covered the thighs. These were made from cloth with small iron and or leather plates of various size and shape, usually connected to each other by chain armour (kusari) and sewn to the cloth. 5. Vambrace籠手 Kote, armored glove like sleeves which extended to the shoulder or hankote (kote gauntlets) which covered the forearms. Kote were made from cloth covered with iron plates of various size and shape, connected by chain armor (kusari).
i
By T. Kotsopoulos
Translation & addaptation GDmag
Photos by: Getty Images
Samurai Bibliography • Harry Cook - “Samurai: The Story of a Warrior Tradition” (Sterling Publishing) • Darrell Craig - “Iai: The Art of Drawing the Sword” (Charles Tuttle Co.) • DonnDraeger - “The Martial Arts and Ways of Japan” (Weatherhill Inc.) • Miyamoto Musashi - “The Book of Five Rings” (Shambhala Inc.) • Masayuki Shimabukuro - “Flashing Steel” (Frog Ltd.) • Nicklaus Suino - “The Art of Japanese Swordsmanship” (Weatherhill Inc.)
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EXPERIENCE
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Novak Djokovic
A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
Novak Djokovic celebrates with the trophy after he defeated Rafael Nadal during the Men’s Final on Day Fifteen of the 2011 US Open.
The king is dead, long live the king Writing history with a tennis racquet
If you follow tennis then you will be familiar with the name No- his career- he won 5 titles (Adelaide, Miami, Estoril, Montreal, vak Djokovic. The Serbian tennis player writes in golden letters
and Vienna). After he managed to finish No. 3 in 2008 for a
his name in the history of the sport as he was crowned the second straight season -something no one accomplished since champion of 3 Grand Slams this year (the last being the US
Pete Sampras in 1999-2000 (who is by the way Nole’s idol)-
Open against the defending champion, Nadal). He also was he came in 2009 and in 2010 to do it again; he was No. 3 the first to win five ATP World Tour Masters in the same season
for the fourth consecutive time! Getting better and better, the
and he is the sixth active player to win 20 tour level titles, three 24 year-old paved consistently his way to the top. successive titles in Dubai and the list goes on… Except from the numerous tennis records, Novak broke also Of course “Nole” showed to the world what he was made
the record of the prizes a tennis player can earn in a single
of from the very first time he started his professional career in
season. Specifically, his latest win over Nadal boosted his an-
2003 at the age of 16 (and maybe even earlier as a junior), nual earnings to $10,609,318; a much bigger sum than the when he won the first Future title in Serbia & Montenegro.
equivalent total the Spanish player managed to raise last year.
He continued his way up to the top through many 2nd and
Although he was born in Belgrade he now calls home the pic-
3rd places in Grand Slams, like in Roland Garros, Wimble-
turesque Monaco where he relaxes along with his girlfriend –
don and the US Open in 2005. His very first ATP title was at
and biggest fun– Jelena Ristic. For him Monaco has everything
Amersfoort in 2006 and in the following year –a landmark for
a tennis player needs. P.63
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Novak Djokovic of Serbia reacts after he won match point against Rafael Nadal of Spain during the Men’s Final on Day Fifteen of the 2011 US Open
After practicing to the Monte Carlo country club, Nole visits one of his favorite places in the city, (not the casino now) the harbor; there he joins his friends in “Lady Moora”, one of the largest yachts in the word. He also finds the much needed peace in the famous restaurants of the city, relaxing and getting mentally prepared for his next match. However, he still makes quick flights to his homeland (where he enjoys a cult-like status) and visits his friend and family, who run a café in Belgrade. After all, Novak’s family inspired him and led him to the sport, since his father was a soccer player and his aunt and uncle professional skiers. After his Us Open win stated that: “I’ll always have the high ambitions to win every major that I play because I think I proved now more than ever that I have the ability to win major events and to play equally well on different kinds of surfaces. And that positive attitude and self-belief brought me to this place right now and I need to maintain that. I need to keep believing that I can win more.” Novak’s favorite surface is hard courts and his best shot is backhand down the line. Nonetheless the Serb is not a dull player and he proves that not only in the field, but also in his interviews and the videos showing him imitating the way other players perform in the field.
By T. Kotsopoulos
Translation & addaptation GDmag
Photos by: Getty Images
One thing is for certain, Novak Djokovic is now the best tennis player in the world and he knows how to enjoy his success.
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EXPERIENCE
Equestrian
POLO ONE OF THE OLDEST SPORTS IN THE WORLD P.66
T
T
he sport of the equestrian polo is one of the oldest in the world, referred by
many as “The sport for kings”. The exact origin of polo is unknown; however historical reports mention a polo-like sport played in Constantinople during the Byzantine era as a way of training the cavalry, as well as in Persia in the 5th century or even in Japan in the Middle Ages for more or less the same reasons.
he game of Polo is very impressive and interesting to watch, but a ball sport played on a horse’s back can be very daunting; at least to someone never ride a horse before. Regarding the game, one of the characteristic rules of polo is that the equestrian is allowed to use the mallet only with the right hand. This raises the question if a left-handed player ever existed in the history of the sport. Surprisingly, left-handed players, although they might hit with less accuracy, yet they guide their ponies better on the field. Equestrian polo is usually played in ranches or, more commonly, in organized galas and tournaments. One of the most famous polo Clubs in the world and the largest one in Europe is the “Guards Polo Club”. It has 10 playgrounds that spread out over 53 hectares and is situated in London since 1955, organizing every year three main tournaments: the Queen’s Cup, the Royal Windsor and Archie David. An important factor: Polo ponies. They are considered to be in many cases the single greatest determinant of the match’s outcome. Moreover, one could say that the most exciting thing about equestrian polo is the bond developed between the rider and these unique horses. Both struggling as one, trying their best in order to win. By N. Tatsi
Translation & addaptation GDmag
Photos by: Getty Images
A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
PRESENTATION
Perfumers est. 1870 As English as Wimbledon and Earl Grey
A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
The moment you enter Penhaligon’s boutique in the City of London is an instant of ecstasy for the nostrils. Delicate scents of clove, nectarine, jasmine and vanilla fill the air and you realize that these people know the emotive power of aromas. Memories unlock and doors open in a journey of whispers and caresses. By N. Tatsi, Translation & addaptation GDmag
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The British house was established at the end of the 1860s by William Henry Penhaligon, an alchemist that moved from Cornwall to London and became the exclusive barber of the British Courts and the personal perfumer of Queen Victoria.
The course of the fragrance house started during the Victorian era and till today produces some of the most exquisite aromas for the demanding and eccentric men. The initial store was at Jermeyn Street, next to a hamam. Unfortunately, both buildings were totally destroyed during the bombing of the city in 1941. In 1975 the designer Sheila Pickles with the help of the famous Italian director Franco Zeffirelli inaugurated the new store of Penhaligon’s Perfumes in Covent Garden, using all formulas of the rare fragrances of William Penhaligon. Today, the house continues to hold the Royal Warrants of the Victorian age and has 14 stores in the U.K., 20 in the U.S.A., 6 in Canada, 1 in France and it is hosted in numerous selected shops globally.
Fragrances still made in England using the finest rare ingredients; from hand-squeezed bergamot, to jasmine at twice the price of gold, all in the signature fragrance bottle of Penhaligon with the clear glass and the ribbon-wrapped top.
In the luxurious British House one can find, aside from the uncommon fragrances made by the finest ingredients, exquisite ranges of luxury skin care products, such as scented soaps, talcum powders, bath oils and lotions. Moreover, a man’s needs are fully covered with the grooming products and the luxury toiletries, featuring sophisticated and elegant shaving sets of the highest quality, as well as aftershaves and shaving creams with excellent stubble softening and conditioning properties, all for a good old shave. A hand-written formula by William Penhaligon
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CULTURE
The American jazz vocalist, composer, lyricist and vocalese performer declared by the New York Times as the standout male vocalist of our time
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Kurt Elling
Kurt Elling K
A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
urt Elling belongs to the elite of jazz singers,
He was born in Chicago in the 2nd of November 1967, he
among the top musicians of this kind, like Mel
showed an interest for music through his father, who was a Kapell-
Torme, Jon Hendricks, or even the legendary meister (i.e. chapel master) in a Lutheran church. Elling was growArmstrong. His exquisite depth of voice was the ing in the music environment of the church, singing in the choirs basis of a spectacular and evolving career that and playing various musical instruments. However, he was not ex-
essentially started in the beginning of the ‘90s when he sent a
posed to jazz, not until he joined the Gustavus Adolphus College.
demo to the historical Blue Note Records. Elling’s goal was the
Following that, he was enrolled to the Theological Department of
top right from the beginning, with a series of some marvelous LPs
the University of Chicago until January 1992 when he started his
and continuous shows in the world’s greatest halls. New York
career as a jazz singer. His general presence can be character-
Times, in 2009, described him as “The standout male vocalist of
ized as overwhelming, to say the least. As a composer, Kurt Elling
our time” –something that no one can deny – whereas the Jazz gives a new lease on life. “His lyrics are full of a dynamic poetic Journalist Association many times declares him “Male Singer of
spirit”, stressed the awarded with a Bollingen Prize for Poetry of
the Year”. The baritone Kurt Elling with the rich voice, stretching
the University of Yale, Robert Creeley, to continue “He transcends
in four octaves, is characterized by a splendid technique and an
us to the world of secret elements”. His recent work is named “The
unfathomable sensual depth. His sense of rhythm enriches the fi-
Gate” (Concord Records), which is a personal view in the music
nal acoustic result, boasting vocal pitch variations combined with
of King Crimson, Joe Jackson, Stevie Wonder and the Beatles, as
an ecstatic voice that mixes the old with the new jazz music. The
well as of Miles Davis, Bill Evans and Herbie Hancock, exploring
unique route of this talented composer and singer is paved with
jazz’s past and waving the future. This is the new spirit that springs
eight nominations for the Grammy Awards and numerous awards
out from “The Gate”, cuddling the listener with the musical feast
as the best jazz singer, while collaborations with artists like Al Jar-
of Elling and his collaborators. There is no doubt that Kurt Elling
reau, Dave Brubeck, Benny Golson, Marian McPartland, John
is quite simply the most outstanding jazz singer of his generation,
Clayton and many more synthesize a multicolor background.
and arguably the most technically proficient alive today.
By T. Paraskevopoulos Translation & addaptation GDmag
Photos by: Getty Images
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Riding Photography: Vangelis Kyris | Model: M. Terzakis | Hair & Make up: Orient | Styling: Pierre Nicola
Loro Piana Trousers | Holland Esquire Overcoat | Church’s Shoes | Hermes Gloves
A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
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A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
Evisu Jeans | Franck Muller Watch | La Martina Boots GD Private Collection Bag
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A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
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A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
Blancpain Watch | Holland & Sherry Jacket | Altea Scarf | Cartier Cufflinks
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A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
Hunting Jacket R. Lauren | R. Lauren - Double RL Belt Prada Shirt | Paul Smith Scarf
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Patek Philippe Watch | Kilgour Jacket | E. Marinella Cravatte | A & Fitch Shirt Paul Smith Jacket | Hermes Scarf | Loro Piano Trousers | Dunhill Gloves Gieves & Hawkes Shirt & Waistcoat | E. Marinella Cravatte
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ETRO Jacket | RRL Ralf Lauren Belt | ETRO Scarf | Evisu Jeans Rolex Watch | PRPS Jeans | Ariston Jacket | Etiqueta Negra Waistcoat
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Rolex Watch | Cartier Fountain Pen | William & Son Cufflinks | Persol Sunglasses Altea Scarf | Etro Pochette | Valentino Jacket | IWC Portuguese Watch P.88
A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
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A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
Drake’s of London Tie | Boss Selection Pochette | Brooks Brothers Shirt | GD Private Collection Hat P.91
A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
EXPERIENCE
Presenting...
W
e bring to you an unsurpassed collection of some finest resorts of unique character and charm. Escape in luxury and pamper
yourself in these sumptuous hotels of unparallel hospitality and elegant comfort. Dawdle along the stunning beaches of the Phranang Peninsula, admire the azure skies of Oaxaca’s coastline from the splendid pools, celebrate the Italian cuisine overlooking the picturesque Portofino, feel like a king in the magnificent gardens in Jodhpur, and go horseback riding in the emerald shores of Trancoso. By N. Tatsi
Translation & addaptation GDmag
A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
RAYAVADEE RESORT K R A B I / T H A I L A N D
Rayavadee is situated at the heart of Krabi’s National Marine Park in Thailand. The resort combines natural beauty and luxury in a beautiful setting, amidst tropical gardens and coconut groves against a backdrop of sheer cliffs, lush jungle foliage and the clear waters of the Andaman Sea. In addition to stylish, five-star accommodation, Rayavadee boasts fine cuisine, one of the most unique relaxation spas in Thailand and warm, attentive service.
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A Global Interactive Review On Men’s Style & Culture
This resort is magical. Krabi’s premier luxury five-star resort, boasts 98 enchanting two-story pavilions and 4 luxurious private villas spread over 26 acres of coconut groves and tropical gardens and bordered by three beaches. The award-winning architecture blends with its natural surroundings to create a unique atmosphere reminiscent of an idyllic southern Thai village. Choose the right Pavilion for you and let yourself enjoy the special services of the hotel. Deluxe Pavilion, Spa Pavilion, Hydro pool Pavilion and Family Pavilion, are unique, with an exquisite decoration, with richly colored fabrics and amazing hot tabs to loosen up.
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You can dine in Raya Dining and enjoy a sophisticated menu with dishes that range from light offerings and tasty salads to classics. Worm hospitality combined with a great exotic environment;
Rayavadee is a unique destination.
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SPLENDIDO & SPLENDIDO MARE RESORT IN THE PERFECT HARBOUR OF PORTOFINO
If you want to feel like a movie star back in 1950’s the destination for you is Portofino. In this marvelous harbor that managed to remain unchanged since 1930, you can find the 5 star Hotel “Splendido & Splendido Mare”. A stay here embraces all that is best about the Ligurian Riviera: warm days by the pool, celebrated cuisine and magical views of the turquoise Mediterranean.
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The amazing view at the Portofino harbor can’t compare to anything else. Splendido hotel is situated on a hillside among the trees, in a place regarded as one of the most elegant and glamorous in Italy. It boasts 64 elegant rooms, including 35 suites and junior suites. Many rooms have private terraces looking out on an enchanting panorama. The dÊcor is designed to capture and reflect the vivid, sundrenched colours of the surrounding natural vistas.
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The Splendido Mare is in the heart of Portofino, overlooking the Piazzetta and the small harbour, Splendido Mare boasts 16 Rooms and Suites, most with a balcony or terrace. Together, these elegant retreats encapsulate the Orient-Express experience, delivering guests right to the heart of the vibrant local scene. All photography by: Genivs Loci
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VILLAS DE TRANCOSO B A H I A / BR A Z I L
The luxurious private Villas de Trancoso are lo- In front of the beach lies a tropical paradise of luxucated in a beautiful Bahian beach close to the rious manicured gardens, spacious lawns and flora homonymous village. These exotic Villas fea- of every variety. Nestled within this oasis you will ture amazing tropical gardens, a breathtaking find the villas, the cabanas, the restaurant and a sea view and a conscientious decoration that white marble pool. You can relax around the pool, makes you feel like home. All these things make sip cocktails in the sunken pool bar or take a stroll it the ultimate place for a romantic escape with through the gardens to experience the incredible your beloved one.
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array of flowers, foliage, birds and plant life.
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Start your morning by taking a Brazilian breakfast: hot steaming Brazilian coffee, seasonal tropical fruits and juices, baked breads, cheeses, pastries and omelets of your choosing. Later when the day goes by you can taste some of the best Brazilian delicacies of the hotel’s Chef Specials for the day.
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You can try some activities too, like the Villa Golf, at the Terravista golf course, only 2 kilometers from the Villas. An experience no golfer will want to miss. Moreover you can ride a horse and explore the beaches of the area. Relax to music at the beach bar or lounge in the luxury of the shaded deck with beach pillows and attentive staff. Take a dip in the ocean and return to the waterfall showers in the sand. Trancoso beach hotel awaits you.
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CULTURE
George Mendes
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Meet the Chef A winner in the kitchen and in women’s hearts
George Mendes has been trained by and worked with some of the most respected professional chefs in the world, and this is something you can’t impugn. Born in the USA by Portuguese parents, he graduated in 1992 from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park (NY). He worked and studied together under the guidance of his mentor, David Bouley, while he also had the opportunity to work in Paris with Alain Passard. In the small French bistro Greenwich Village, he had the chance to develop his own style of cooking, as well as his management skills and the presentation of various materials. In 1998 he is initiated in “French luxe cuisine” under the guidance of chef Sandro Gamba. Till 2003 he continues to enrich his knowledge with travel experiences of sites and tastes in France and Spain, working with renowned chefs like Alain Ducasse at La Bastide de Moustiers, the legendary Roger Verge at Le Moulin de Mougins and in the three Michelin star Restaurant in San Sebastian, Spain with the Basque chef Martin Berasategui. In this career he acquired unique experience in preparing and implementing various menus, having as a criterion the freshness of seasonal ingredients, as well as the heritage and the contemporary culinary trends of the Iberian Peninsula, maintaining the balance of the traditional flavors in a new taste and visual form. In May 2009, George Mendes opened Aldea restaurant in Flatiron of Manhattan. The menu is inspired by the Iberian Peninsula, characterized by simplicity and elegance, offering guests unforgettable culinary memories. By N. Tatsi
Translation & addaptation GDmag
Photos by: Getty Images
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ACADEMY
Food for action Libido, erection and diet By P. Karafillidis
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I
s diet connected to sexual dysfunction
the tablets) for their beneficial action in
and are there particular foods that as-
reducing cholesterol.
sist to the solution of the problem?
• Eat more shellfish (particularly oysters),
In order to avoid that difficult position,
liver, cheeses, beef and whole grain cere-
you should follow first of all a healthy and
als for their high content of zinc. Zinc is
balanced diet.
an essential element for sperm produc-
• A diet low in fats and cholesterols can
tion and for a good sexual function.
be really helpful. Almost half of men
• Include pumpkin seeds in your diet .
over 50 years old with erection problems
• Avoid alcohol, especially right before
present high cholesterol blood values. • Eat large quantities of oats, beans and garlic (before a rendezvous you can use
H
sexual activity. • Moreover, the loss of weight might also be a key for improvement.
ere are 5 foods, which, accord-
Eggs. This food is rich in vitamins B6 and
ing to scientific researches, will
B5 that help hormones to adjust and im-
raise your libido:
pugn stress, two basic elements for a dy-
Banana. This fruit is considered to be a li-
namic libido.
bido booster. Their content of potassium
Beef liver. Contains glutamine, which is
and B complex vitamins increase the en-
the cellular “fuel” for the immune sys-
ergy levels in the organism.
tem. Liver has such properties that can
Nuts. All nuts, but almonds in particular
set fire to a cold libido.
are a vital source of fatty acids (good fats)
Garlic. This vegetable, due to allicin, in-
that are essential to our body. Fatty acids creases blood flow in genitals. In case you help the production of men’s hormones have second thoughts about the smell (yes, we do have some of those too).
you can always try the capsules.
By P. Karafillidis Photo by: Thinkstock
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ACADEMY
The daily necessity
of plastic surgery Dr. Vassilikos George, MD PHD Catholic University of Leuven, Belgium, Iasso General Hospital, Athens, Greece
T
he interest of advanced societies in this planet con- nowned and prestigious universities, always combined with his/ cerning the fight against the ruthless marks of time on
hers operational experience, abilities and aesthetic perception.
human body is big but also logical. As the expectan- Within the pages of this exquisite electronic effort of men’s cy of life increases, so does the level of well being expression that I regard will have a great acceptance in the
even if at times afflicted by sickness, on the one hand, and the
female world as well, we will progressively verge on plastic
economical crisis, on the other.
surgery in our daily lives. We will analyze the operations and
Our basic and intimate appetence of us all (either women or
their results in our daily lives, as well as in the vast section of
men) is to live a healthy and pleasant life, psychologically as
sexuality. Nonetheless, all these in a scientific point of view,
well as bodily, during the few extra years that we have gained
with crystal clear disposal and without the slightest trace of
through cultural evolution and the rapid evolvement of science
fraudulent, customer approach, prudery or primness.
during the last decades.
I often wonder if my fellow men want to know one or two
The corner stone of this effort is the science of plastic surgery,
things regarding the art of plastic surgery and mainly its effects
along with all its breadth of activities, i.e. aesthetic surgery as on us, but also on the opposite sex. well as reconstructive surgery. Another sector of plastic surgery I will try not to spoil the mystery of looks, which is however the presenting a whirl of evolution concerning the healing of time Holy Grail of my art, with pictures of blood and scars, which marks is marked by the non-invasive methods. However, in that are of no interest for anyone. Starting with commenting on the case, a good knowledge of anatomy and a wide chirurgical
techniques applied and their effects, I would like to write about
experience is absolutely required, in order for the abovemen- the noses I see around. tioned methods to be correctly implemented and for the best The first image that comes to mind when we think about a felpossible results to be obtained.
low man, is that of his/her face. In the latter now, the looks are
Many times the combination of several intervention methods is
instinctively attracted by the nose, the eyes and the lips, in that
needed, chirurgical or not, in order to really preserve the im- particular order. Afterwards, the brain records the rest of the pressive results. The only thing that warrants the effects of these data, combining and relating them according to our personal actions is the long standing, hardworking and systematic edu- tastes, forming thus a final image. All these take place in seccation of the plastic surgeons, who usually graduate from re- onds and are permanently registered in our mind. P.110
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Nonetheless, the nose is of great significance due to the
the various possibilities. He/ she should discuss the two
fact that it simply protrudes! Don’t think that this is weird, available chirurgical techniques. In the first one, the closed this simply a fact.
rhinoplasty, sections are made only to the nostrils. We can
There are three basic angles that the nose forms (nasal pyra-
shape the hump of the nose, due to the fact that we are
mid) in relation to the face and these we take into account able to interfere with the bones and the cartilages creating every time we see one. First of all is the angle formed with
it (septum and upper lateral cartilage). We can also correct
the forehead, second that of the cheeks and last but not least the septum in the same operation, as well as a part of the that of the upper lip. Yet, these angles are not decisive for an nose’s tip, if necessary. However, we don’t have access in aesthetically good shaped result. The aesthetic perception
that operation to the bigger part of the nose’s tip. Sad but
of the surgeon is of great importance, in order to be able to true! Have you ever tried to change the mask of your car create a result that suits not only with the respective face, but
with a closed hood? There are things that you simply can’t do. This is where we have to go to the open rhinoplasty. A small section on the nasal columella between the two nostrils, and the nose’s “hood” opens wide, exposing its skeleton. Next to that everything lies on doctor’s knowledge and experience. After the operation and the placement of steri-strips and not plaster (we live in the 21st century), the patient should not be in pain. And when I say no pain I mean it and I am not implying a mild pain. The only thing a patient should experience
MIAMI BEACH, FL: A mannequin that sports extra large breasts is seen in the display window of the Ocean 9ine store. A recent phenomenon in curvy mannequins is thought to be a reflection in the number of women who now have plastic surgery as well as catering to men’s fondness for large boobs.
is a stuffy-like feeling. There is no need of any kind of painkiller. Dear gentlemen and col-
also with the particular personality of the interested person.
leagues, techniques are constantly evolving in all directions
This is where I wish you luck! If you think that we are all the and we should know them, be educated and apply them. A same and all plastic surgeons can render a perfect outcome
professional should always direct properly the patients and
for the person concerned, you have to think twice. We are,
not simply submit to them wrong or old perceptions. And,
first of all, obliged to give shape to a fully functional nose.
of course, the various wrong conceptions released on the
A doctor that respects himself and his profession, on the one
internet or heard on TV should not be taken into account.
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Santos 100 flying tourbillon White gold
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