WOR D S
Adrian Paradis
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Vancouver Island is becoming a centre for craft distilling in BC, and is now tackling that golden pinnacle of distillation: aged whisky.
JOHANN VINCENT
n 2013 the BC government overhauled its liquor laws, making it easier for craft distillers to produce spirits. Distillers quickly got to work creating plenty of gin and vodka varieties, but it’s only now, nine years later, that patience is paying off with that golden pinnacle of distillation: aged whisky. Where previously only large industrial operations could afford to distill their own whisky, the changes granted distillers tax cuts and fewer restrictions, resulting in many new operations. While we in BC are used to being flush with options for local beer and wine, having to now make choices around local versus commercial whisky is a fortunate conundrum indeed. D e v i n e D i s t i lle ry DEVINE Distillery began in 2007 as a family-owned vineyard on the Old West Saanich Road. Today Kevin Titcomb is the head distiller while his wife runs the operations side of the business. “We obtained our spirits licence in 2014 and started producing later that year,” says Titcomb. Just this year, DEVINE took home the Canadian Artisan Spirit of the Year award for its Ancient Grains Whisky.
DEVINE Distillery’s Ancient Grains Whisky
While the recognition is prestigious, Titcomb admits a small caveat: this spirit is not technically a whisky. By Canadian standards, whisky must be aged for at least three years, and Titcomb’s Ancient Grains What whisky will Whisky is aged for only one year. “Everything was an experiment when we started not cure, there is the idea for this whisky,” says no cure for. Titcomb. “But we found that after a year we were able to —irish proverb achieve that balance. It was exceptionally smooth for being in a barrel for only a year.” They had achieved the flavour profile they were hoping for by using new, quarter-cask barrels. Titcomb calls his product a “young” whisky—an increasingly common term as other distillers also experiment with new ways of making the spirit. “We certainly didn’t intend for it to be in a barrel for just a year. We let the spirit tell us when it was going to be ready for the flavour profile we were going for.” Turns out, a year was perfect. JOHANN VINCENT
Moon Distilling’s Antifogmatic Bliss Whisky 24
MAY/JUNE 2022
M o o n D i s t i ll i n g C o . Many in Victoria will recognize the Moon brand for its space-themed lagers and sour beers, but in the past few years the company has been branching out with its ambitious distilling program, including the Antifogmatic Bliss Single Malt Whisky. The Moon Under the Water brewpub started in 2010, and Clay Potter and his family took ownership in 2012. Potter obtained his master’s degree in yeast genetics and brewing science from Scotland (Brewing and Distilling Master’s Program at Heriot-Watt University), and today is brewmaster, distiller, and owner.