Masterclass
Pea Soup with Scallops This luscious green soup celebrates the arrival of spring.
W
hen tender peas are in season, you won’t find a lighter or more satisfying dish than this vibrant soup. Topped with briny scallops and a dollop of sour cream, verdant pea soup is a seasonal favourite. Elegant enough for company yet simple enough for a weeknight meal, this is a soup that celebrates the arrival of spring. Soup doesn’t have to be complicated to be delicious. In this recipe, I don’t bother with garlic or onion because I don’t want any additional flavours to take away from the natural sweetness of the peas. Thinned with a light chicken stock (or water for pea purists), the soup is lightly seasoned with only a squeeze of fresh lemon juice and a pinch of kosher salt. Anyone who’s enjoyed eating shelled peas straight off the vine knows they’re best when freshly picked. The peas’ sugars convert to complex starches within minutes of being harvested, so buy local and cook them straight-away. And be sure to keep them in their pods until you’re ready to cook them. The peas are briefly blanched in salted boiled water, then “shocked” in ice cold water to stop the cooking. This classic blanching technique not only seasons the peas but helps them retain their vibrant colour. (Try it with green beans or asparagus, and you’ll be blanching vegetables for the rest of your cooking days.) Pea soup is good enough to enjoy on its own, but the addition of scallops lends a sweet textural contrast that’s deeply satisfying. Scallops, like peas, have a brief shelf life, which is why frozen-at-sea (flash-frozen and glazed in seawater) is your best bet if you’re not buying them live off the boat. The key to cooking up succulent scallops, rather than tough and chewy ones, is a matter of timing. Overcooking scallops robs them of their tender and buttery texture, so sear one side for a few minutes only, turn them over, turn off the heat, cover the skillet with a lid, and allow the residual heat to cook them to perfection— when the centres are barely opaque.
R ECIPE + T E X T
Denise Marchessault S T Y L ING + PHO T OGR A PH Y
Deb Garlick 20 MAY/JUNE 2022