New Orleanians are a hardy breed and Hurricane Katrina has not dampened the spirits of this vibrant culinary city. by Nathan Fong Photography by John Sherlock
Founded in 1718 by explorers Bienville and Iberville, New Orleans has always been a culinary destination thanks to the melting pot fusion of its settlers and inhabitants. These influences created two main styles of Louisiana cuisines: “Creole” cuisine (a blend of French, Spanish, French Caribbean, African and American influences) and “Cajun” cuisine (originally from the French-speaking Acadian or “Cajun” immigrants who were “deported” by the English from Acadia in Canada. Cajun is more rustic with provincial French style. Creole tends more towards classical European styles adapted to local ingredients. feedback@eatmagazine.ca
N. Fong
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ardi Gras in New Orleans, one of the most famous and revered Carnival festivals in the world, will be celebrated once again this January, some three years after Hurricane Katrina nearly destroyed the livelihood of this historic and entertaining southern city. But Big Easy folk are a hardy breed. Despite the fact that a good percentage (reports say up to 30 percent) of the population haven’t returned and many neighbourhoods are yet to be restored, New Orleanians have persevered and are bringing life back to the Big Easy. Perhaps not to the same extent and glamour as previous eras, but they are definitely on the rebound. Last August I had a chance to visit this charming, “ever so polite” city of the south. Even while experiencing close to unbearable heat and humidity, this city knows how to eat and drink, partying in style no matter what the conditions. I had never visited the Big Easy before, so I had my suspicions after heard so many effusive reports about the nightlife, the food and the lifestyle. From what I saw and experienced, those reports unfolded to be the truth. From wonderful, golden-rich roux-based jambalayas and greasy po’ boys licked with tart pickles and mayo to 24-hour daiquiri drivethroughs (yes, believe it!), the culinary scene is somewhat surreal. I watched as drunk and brazen groups of youths walking down famed Bourbon Street along with adults with children in tow. Stripper bars and penthouse clubs vied for attention with the honourable Preservation Hall of Jazz and main-stream chain eateries like the Hard Rock Café and Morton’s. Perhaps the city could be seen as a cross between Disneyland, Las Vegas and Fantasy Island. The 9th Ward was one of the poorest areas in the city yet was still a vibrant neighbourhood community. It was hit hardest by Katrina and still sits barren and stripped of its former tarnished glory, at this point destined it seems to being simply leveled or left to become a ghost town. The racial and political ramifications of the situation are staggering, but I reminded myself that I was here for the food.
Corn & Crab Bisque from Besh Steak House at Harrah’s Casino, New Orleans The new Harrah’s Hotel was the first new luxury hotel to be opened in the Big Easy after Hurricane Katrina. The hotel, casino and entertainment complex houses seven top restaurants including James Beard award-winning chef John Besh’s glamorous Besh Steak House. Although this restaurant is famous for its superb cuts of steak, this delicate fresh corn and crab soup was a sure winner. Serves 4 to 5 people. To make the bisque: 1 1/2 pounds small fresh blue crabs 2 Tbsp olive oil 1/2 pound chopped onions 1 chopped celery stalk 1/3 cup garlic cloves 1/2 cup brandy 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 4 litres corn stock (recipe follows)
2 sprigs fresh thyme 1 bay leaf 1/8 tsp red pepper flakes 750 mL heavy cream 1/2 pound jumbo lump crab or dungeness 1/2 pound fresh corn Tabasco sauce to taste Worchestershire sauce to taste Salt to taste
Place shells in a heavy plastic bag and crush crab shells with meat mallet. Place the crushed crabs into a hot roasting pan [on the stove?]] with olive oil. Let cook until all water has evaporated from the crab shells and they turn slightly golden. Add onion, garlic and celery and cook until onions are translucent. Add brandy and let flame up until all alcohol is cooked out. Dust with flour and stir until flour is evenly distributed. Add corn stock, thyme, bay leaf and red pepper flakes and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and let simmer for 45 minutes. Add heavy cream and cook for 15 minutes more. Puree with blender and pass through a fine strainer. Add crab meat and corn. Bring back to a simmer to heat corn and crab. Season to taste with Tabasco, Worchestershire sauce, lemon juice, brandy and salt. To make the corn stock: 2 corn cobs (use cobs left from fresh corn in soup) 1 medium yellow onion 1 stalk celery 6 litres water 1 bay leaf 1/2 Tbsp whole black peppercorns Chop onions and celery. Add them along with the corn cobs to the pot of water. Bring to simmer and add bay leaf and peppercorns. Simmer slowly for 45 minutes to an hour. Strain through fine strainer.
Shellfish and Andouille Gumbo from 7 on Fulton You don’t leave Louisiana without a bowl of gumbo. There are various styles of gumbo, which is similar to a thick, almost stew-like soup, but the important factor is that they are all started with a slow-cooked roux that turns dark golden brown to bring a rich nuttiness to the dish. This simple dish is easy to prepare and is traditionally served over hot steamed rice. 7 on Fulton is a beautiful new restaurant serving contemporary Southern cuisine in a heritage building that also contains the Riverfront Hotel. Chef Michael Sichel’s gumbo was certainly one of the best! Serves 6. 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 cup plus 2 Tbsp canola oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped 3 stalks celery, finely chopped 4 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 green pepper, finely chopped 3/4 litre fish or shrimp stock 3/4 litre chicken stock 1 Tbsp Tony’s Creole seasoning 1 Tbsp Worchestershire sauce
1/3 pound fresh okra, trimmed and cut into 1/2-inch pieces (optional) 1 doz raw oysters 1 doz raw prawns 1/2 pound cooked andouille sausage, cut into ½-inch slice 1 bay leaf 1 1/2 tsp salt 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper 1/2 pound crabmeat Steamed hot white rice Chopped green onions
In a heavy medium saucepan, mix together flour and 1/2 cup canola oil and stir slowly over medium-low heat until the roux is dark brown. Be patient as this brings out the flavour of the gumbo. Do not burn! Set aside. In a separate large heavy saucepan, heat the 2 Tbsp canola oil over medium heat and add onion, celery, garlic and green pepper; sauté until soft. Add the shrimp and chicken stocks. Slowly whisk in the roux a small amount at a time, waiting till it dissolves until adding more. Add enough roux to desired consistency. Bring gumbo to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes stirring occasionally. Add seasoning, Worchestershire sauce and okra. Stir in seafood, sausage, bay leaf, salt and pepper. Cook for 5 to 7 minutes or until seafood is cooked. Right before serving, stir in crabmeat and cook for a minute to heat the crabmeat through. Serve over cooked white rice and garnish with green onions.
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www.eatmagazine.ca MARCH | APRIL 2008
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