masterclass
POTATO GNOCCHI TEXT: DENISE MARCHESSAULT PHOTOS: DEB GARLICK
W
hen I learned gnocchi was one of Gary Hynes’ favourite dishes, it seemed only fitting to feature this “how to” guide for creating this simple, heart-warming recipe.
This darling of a dumpling is sometimes confused with pasta. It’s no wonder — they’re often found in the fresh pasta section of the grocery aisle and featured on restaurant menus with the pasta entrées. (Never mind that Italians serve both as Primi Piatti, a first-course dish.) Gnocchi, however, are made from potatoes. Calling them pasta is akin to ordering an EX-presso (rather than espresso). Aficionados within earshot will set you straight. When I tell friends how easy it is to prepare gnocchi, I get doubtful looks, followed by, “Maybe for you. I’ll stick to store-bought, thanks.” If you’re accustomed to vacuum-packed gnocchi, homemade are a revelation. The two are not the same: one melts-in-your-mouth, the other, well, you’ve had the other. The process is straightforward but, like most recipes with few ingredients, it’s about technique and feel, rather than measured ingredients. Smooth or etched, served tender or sautéed crisp, gnocchi reflect the temperament of the chef. Once you’re comfortable with this base recipe, you can tinker with variations. The addition of sweet potato, for example, imparts a lovely shade of rust and minced kale tinges gnocchi verdant green. Some chefs amp up the colour with unsettling shades of purple (Peruvian potatoes) and garish red (beets), but I draw the line at black gnocchi, even if squid ink is a delicacy. A purist at heart, I prefer my gnocchi as plain and simple as the potato itself. I suspect Gary would have felt the same. 38 SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018
22-05 EAT Magazine Sept-Oct 2018.indd 38
2018-09-05 12:13:22 PM