Garden Culture Magazine UK 21

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CONTENTS

Korean

54

Nat ural F arming

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS

10

THE

THE

GOOD BAD UGLY

70

AND THE

Indigenous Microorganisms Archaea & the Origin of Earth

49 WHO’S GROWING WHAT WHERE

14 I N THIS ISSU E OF GA R D EN CU LTU RE :

BUGS

YOU CAN SEE

32

9 Foreword

38 5 Cool Finds

10 Product Spotlights

42 Light Matters: Part X

14 Archaea & the Origin of Earth

49 Who’s Growing What Where

20 Symbiosis

54 The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

24 Efficiency

61 Insect Pollinators

30 Shorties

69 Master Cho Biography

32 Bugs You Can See

70 Indigenous Microorganisms

34 The Microbe Option

76 Fake or Not? 79 Shorties

efficiency

24

GARDENCULTUREMAGAZINE.COM

7

Rare Dankness Industries, Denver - CO - USA

FOREWORD & CREDITS

FOREWORD

I

CREDITS

ndoor gardening seems superior to outdoors in so many ways - Temperature, humidity, and CO2 levels, for day and night, are set, and nutrient regimes are measured

and applied according to the plant’s needs. Perfect...right?

Perfection is a funny word. The indoor environments we create are amazing, and plants thrive. There is no bad weather or other “negative” environmental factors that we have to deal with outside.

The reality is that Nature is the champ at growing. You only have to look into a healthy forest, and you will be humbled. Massive trees, growing strong and green without any human intervention.

But they do have helpers, hundreds of trillions of different little helpers, working together to feed and protect all living things.

Considering that only a small percentage of bacteria and fungi have been identified, there is always a lot to learn about the microcosmos.

This edition is full of ar ticles delving into the subject of biology and gardening. The Good, the Bad and the Ugly describes the friends and foes one can have in the garden while Evan Folds explores the role of a bacteria-like substance and the origins of life. Nico Hill, passionate KNF advocate, explains how to collect and nur ture local microorganisms to use in your own garden.

The wonderful world of microbes. Much like on this edition’s cover, you have good guys and bad guys. Hopefully the good wins and you end up with healthy colonies of bacteria and fungi that feed and protect your plants.

SPECI A L TH A N KS TO: Albert Mondor, Chris Bond, Dr Callie Seaman, Evan Folds, Michiel Panhuysen, Nico Hill, Stephen Brookes, and Theo Tekstra.

PRESIDENT Eric Coulombe eric@gardenculturemagazine.com +1-514-233-1539 E XCU T I V E ED I TO R Celia Sayers celia@gardenculturemagazine.com +1-514-754-1539 SEN I O R ED I TO R Tammy Clayton tammy@gardenculturemagazine.com DESIGN Job Hugenholtz job@gardenculturemagazine.com D I G I TA L & SO CI A L M A R K E T I N G CO O R D I N ATO R Serena Sayers serena@gardenculturemagazine.com +1-514-754-0062 ADVERTISING ads@gardenculturemagazine.com PUBLISHER 325 Media 44 Hyde Rd., Milles Isles Québec, Canada t. +1 (844) GC GROWS info@gardenculturemagazine.com GardenCultureMagazine.com

Eric

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D I ST R I B U T I O N PA R T N ER S • HydroGarden • Maxigrow • Highlight Horticultur e • Nutriculture DGS • WHG UK

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All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without prior permission in writing from 325 Media Inc.

GA R D EN CU LT U R E M AGA Z I N E.CO M

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Sunblaster With a long history of providing the best possible lighting for vir tually any indoor growing application, Sunblaster’s reputation comes from designing and manufacturing indoor hor ticultural lighting and accessories for nearly two decades.

They specialise in propagation, seed star ting, vegetative growth, and clone production. Sunblaster makes their T5HO and LED Strip Lights energy efficient, affordable, and designed for a single purpose, perfect propagation.

Adding their NanoDomes with ingenious light tracks and heavy-duty 1020 propagation trays builds a propagation system that will provide years of reliable production and service.

Growing better has never been this easy. Items sold separately. Learn more: www.sunblasterlighting.com

® AquaFarm ®and WaterFarm Version 3 Easy to use hydroponics for beginners, professionals, and everyone in-between. The ORIGINAL home hydroponics unit.

Invented more than 30 years ago in California by GH, the AquaFarm and smaller format WaterFarm are still the best-selling home hydroponic systems in the world.

Both work by using air to draw nutrient solution up from the reservoir, and drip it back down through the clay pebble substrate and roots.

This design is incredibly effective at delivering an oxygenated nutrient solution to plants, and the two-par t construction offers easy reservoir and root access, which can be difficult in many systems.

Version 3 boasts a range of improvements: • Roto-molded in France from super tough and durable recycled plastic.

• UV and light-shielded for root protection.

• Versatile, adaptable, and expandable.

• Very low electricity consumption: just 1 watt!

Quick to set up in any space, from greenhouses to kitchens and balconies, you can use AquaFarms and WaterFarms to grow decorative and culinary plants of all sizes, from herbs to small trees.

Visit gb.eurohydro.com/waterfarm.html for more information.

10

Maxibright

DURA 600W magnetic ballast A Genuine Power magnetic power pack, Maxibright builds the DURA 600W ballast using quality components and control gears from Venture Lighting Europe.

• 600W Genuine Power • Quality components from Venture Lighting • Precision wound ballast • Wall-mountable, high gloss, vented enclosure • Cool and silent running • Flying lead with IEC connection • Runs high-pressure sodium or metal halide lamps To find your local retailer visit Maxigrow.com/where-to-buy.

GROWING PRODUCTS

MAX O S I AN F N A A C

coustic Fa n s

Based on a high quality Swiss-engineered motor, Isomax fans also have a unique 3D stator design that produces a laminar flow from the rear of the motor. The outer casing uses a thick layer of acoustic foam to provide excellent sound insulation.

• • • • • •

Integrated silencing technology delivers extremely low noise-levels.

Reliable, powerful, durable, and lightweight.

Variable output 3-speed controller on 150mm and 200mm sizes.

High-torque motor generates immense air-pressure.

Two built-in hanging attachments for easy positioning.

Pre-wired with a 2-metre cable (requires a UK 3-pin plug fitting).

Isomax fans provide air flows from 410 m3/hr to 3300 m3/hr and are available from 150mm to 315mm diameter.

Available almost everywhere.

Secret Jarldliinghting and temperature controller

nGrow digita

The easy to set up nGrow from Secret Garden has many great features. It’s unique design and functionality ensures almost limitless flexibility of use. Simply set the time when you want the lights on, the duration, and desired room temperature, then sit back while the nGrow does the work for you.

Use the nGrow’s nighttime temperature setting to maintain a set temperature. Achieve continuous negative pressure by running your fans 24/7. The temperature safety feature on the nGrow will automatically turn the lights off and increase the fan speed when the grow room reaches a preset maximum critical temperature. Once the grow room is returned to the desired temperature, lights will automatically turn back on, avoiding crop damage.

To find your local retailer visit Maxigrow.com/where-to-buy.

• • • • • • • •

Timed lighting of up to 2 x 600W ballasts or 1 x 1000W ballast Thermostatically controlled fan extraction of up to 200W Totally silent fan control using digital pulse nanotechnology Day and night temperatures controlled separately LCD readout showing time, temp, and fan speed Small and lightweight design Fuse protection safety 2.4m power cable and 2m temperature sensor

S u b Cu l t u r e

SubCulture is a beneficial mix of microorganisms that protect the root mass from pathogen fungi by surrounding the roots with a barrier, and inhibits growth, propagation, and survival of their predators. GHE SubCulture uses fewer strains and chooses the ones that work fast. Having healthy bacteria colonies living in your root system has many benefits. Its ability to protect your plants from heat stress in the reservoir and the air is the main perk for indoor growers. Nothing defends your plants better.

Learn more: gb.eurohydro.com/subculture.html

GA R D EN CU LT U R E M AGA Z I N E.CO M

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GROWING PRODUCTS

Maxibright Pro Max GOLD 1000W adjustable digital balla s This DigiLight® ballast uses the latest in digital ballast technology. The Pro Max runs 1000W 400V DE lamps perfectly, ensuring that both lamp and ballast achieve optimum performance. Flexible power modes are just one Pro Max key feature that provides greater flexibility and efficiency during the growing cycle.

• • • • • • •

t

Surge Control – Ignites lamps one at a time to reduce electrical surges Soft star t technology - For longer lamp life and continual efficient output Dynamic frequency control - For constant, regulated output Fast lamp restrike - Ensures hot lamps star t as quickly as possible Diagnostic LED feature Silent running and lightweight Only for use with double-ended 400V 1000W lamps and reflectors

To find your local retailer visit Maxigrow.com/where-to-buy.

Can Carbon Filters

D ig i D r

6 0 0W adjus t a

ive

ble digit al bal

last

The Can Filter range incorporates the original pelletized carbon filters, while the more recent Can Lite uses a special low-density granulated carbon.

Developed with ease of installation, durability, and effectiveness in mind, Can Filters give you longlasting, and reliable results.

• Available from 100mm to 355mm diameters.

• Airflow rates from 150 m3/hr to 4500 m3/hr.

• Can Lite filters have a compact design for ease of installation.

• Original Can filters offer exceptional longevity.

• Backed by years of experience.

With four adjustable power settings, the DigiDrive 600W ballast offers continuous flexibility during the whole growth cycle. Utilise space in your grow room without compromising on performance. The DigiDrive is lightweight, small in size, and silent running. Only your plants will know it’s there. Manufactured from high-quality components, the DigiDrive is efficient, reliable, and drives your lamps perfectly.

Ideally matched to the Can-Fan range, Can Filters covers the filtration requirements of most popular fans.

Available everywhere.

To find your local retailer visit Maxigrow.com/where-to-buy.

• • • • •

Four adjustable power modes: 250W, 400W, 600W, and BOOST Compact and lightweight design Short circuit safety protection Silent operation Runs high-pressure sodium and metal halide lamps

BM

This specific mix of bacteria decomposes the organic matter and debris in the nutritive solution and transforms this potential source of disease into a supplement of mineral salts readily available to the plants.

Learn more: gb.eurohydro.com/biopony_bm.html

GA R D EN CU LT U R E M AGA Z I N E.CO M

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BY EVAN FOLDS

Archaea & t he Origin of E ar t h ‘W e k now more a b ou t t he mov emen t of cel e s t i a l b odie s t h a n a b ou t t he s oil underf oo t ’

14

ARCHAEA

E

verything on Ear th star ts with the soil. For billions of years the living topsoil has been accumulating naturally, and in only the last one hundred years we have abused its bounty

to the point that in some places it is literally running out.

T hink a b ou t t he s oil f ood w eb l ik e t he w eb of l if e in t he oce a n Soil doesn’t just happen by chance, it is manufactured through a very deliberate process based around the work of what is collectively called the “soil food web.” There is another universe under our feet made up of an intricate web of life encompassing tiny microorganisms, or microbes, that are charged with the most important work of all – growing soil.

This is quite the conundrum for those attempting to put Mother Nature in a box

Think about the soil food web like the web of life in the ocean.

The big fish eats the little fish on down to the plankton that represents the base of the oceanic food chain. Microbes are the “plankton of the soil,” or the base of the terrestrial food web. Microbes support the earthworms that feed the birds, which culminates in people. Now, make the connection that essentially every modern conventional farming practice works against the fundamental soil building activity of microbes – tilling, fungicides, artificial fertilizers, mono-cropping, and the list goes on. How did our agriculture become so counterintuitive?

Back in the 1500’s Leonardo da Vinci said, “We know more about the movement of celestial bodies than about the soil underfoot.” This statement remains true to this day, with estimates telling us that science has only identified 5% of bacteria and 10% of fungal species based on the rate of discovery.

Why are we so malicious towards something we know so little about?

Evidence of how little we know is all around us. For instance, one of the central concepts in our understanding of Nature was recently redefined. The term “symbiotic relationship” was first used by Albert Bernhard Frank in 1877 to describe lichens. For almost 150 years, science understood lichens as an alliance between a single fungus and a single algae, but a pioneering scientist named Toby Spribille recently overturned this textbook understanding with the discovery that a lichen is a symbiont, not of two organisms, but of three. It is a fascinating story of assumption and finding new ways to look at things,

as with most realities in the natural world, the truth was hiding in plain sight.

Due to their size and diversity, studying microbes is notoriously difficult, as evidenced by the lack of authority in soil science and the ostensible “experts” in the realm of compost tea brewing. Compounding the issue is the fact that for most people, microbes are out of sight - out of mind. For example, it is not uncommon to meet a gardener who is unaware of the role of microbes in making compost!

The effort of defining life is a precarious motivation, as Nature does not fit neatly into boxes. For much of the twentieth century the “tree of life” was segmented into two main branches – the eukaryotes that contain membrane-bound organelles made up of organisms that are familiar, such as animals, plants, fungi, and protozoans; and the prokaryotes that lack membrane-bound organelles thought of as being comprised mostly of bacteria.

In 1977, a team led by Carl Woese first classified “bacteria-like” organisms he called archaea as a separate group of prokaryotes based on the sequences of ribosomal RNA genes. Ribosomes are large and complex molecules that convert the DNA message inside cells into a chemical product. Because ribosomes are so critical to the functioning of living things, they are conserved and not prone to rapid evolution, making them ideal to study in the effort to unlock the secrets of bacterial evolution.

By comparing the slight differences in ribosome sequence among a wide diversity of bacteria, groups of similar sequences could be found and recognized as a related group. When DNA technology was first adopted as a means of studying microbial life scientists discovered that the RNA sequences of archaea were no more similar to bacteria than they were to starfish or sunflowers. In fact, archaea RNA in many ways appeared more similar to eukaryotes. This is quite the conundrum for those attempting to put Mother Nature in a box.

GA R D EN CU LT U R E M AGA Z I N E.CO M

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ARCHAEA

Archaea-bacteria growing in the Morning Glory Pool in Yellowstone National Park

The word ‘archaea’ comes from a Greek term meaning “ancient things” In April of 2016 a New York Times headline read, “Scientists Unveil New Tree of Life.” The study, published in the journal Nature Microbiology, introduced these new ideas and read, in part, “Organisms from novel lineages have eluded surveys, because many are invisible to these methods due to sequence divergence relative to the primers commonly used for gene amplification.” In other words, science needs new methods of discovery and they simply did not know how to look for them or grow them in the laboratory.

Many are extreme, being found present in temperatures close to boiling, the guts of animals, and extremely salty water

The word archaea comes from a Greek term meaning “ancient things,” as the first representatives of archaea discovered were methanogens, or organisms that produce methane.

Because of this association, archaea are often described as extremophiles. Many are extreme, being found present in temperatures close to boiling, the guts of animals, and extremely salty water - some archaea can even survive inside granules of salt! But they are also found in common soil, some even postulate that they “eat ions” rather than just the organic matter like in the compost heap. This is a particularly fascinating idea considering the discovery of electric microbes that were first identified in 1987 by Derek Lovely and his lab at the University of Massachusetts.

It is this ability to survive in extreme environments that highlights archaea’s potential importance to the origins of life on Earth. The atmosphere that gave rise to life billions of years ago before there was an oxygen-based ecosystem is thought to have been made up of methane, ammonia, and seawater known as the “primordial soup,” that sparked into life by pressure or electricity. Scientists speculate that archaea were the original organisms that formed during these times due to a gradual development of molecules with increasing complexity.

One of the most important pieces of experimental evidence to support this theory came in 1953 when a graduate student named Stanley Miller guided by his professor, Nobel Laureate Harold Urey, conducted what is now known as the “Miller-Urey experiment.” They used simple organic molecules like amino acids and mimicked the primitive conditions

thought present in Earth’s early atmosphere with a mixture of methane, ammonia, water vapor, and hydrogen. They then sparked electrical flashes to simulate lightning and when they analyzed the solution after a week they found that organic amino acids had formed spontaneously from the inorganic raw materials.

Of course, the primordial soup theory does not account specifically for how life was born from the original amino acids, and it has many critics. For example, in his book, Intelligent Universe, the British astrophysicist Fred Hoyle compares the likelihood of life appearing on Earth by chemical reactions in this way, “A junkyard contains all the bits and pieces of a Boeing 747, dismembered and in disarray.

A whirlwind happens to blow through the yard. What is the chance that after its passage a fully assembled 747, ready to fly, will be found standing there?”

Science is an undeniable tool in our desire to describe and explain living systems; but it is born of an anthropocentrism that creates blind spots and false certainty. Namely, that if we do not know to test for it, or if the test we develop cannot be replicated in the exactness expected by the mighty scientific method, “it isn’t there.” Too many well-meaning people stifle the collective scientific imagination believing that if it has not been discovered it cannot be true. Try proposing the radionics of Dr. Albert Abrams or the biodynamic methods of Dr. Rudolf Steiner into the wrong Facebook Group!

The human spirit’s imagination is unstoppable, but modern popular science does its very best through the dogma of deduction.

Without peer-reviewed studies published in major scientific journals, those who seek to expand our understanding of life and the natural world are left carrying the burden of proof for things that do not fit neatly into the confines of academia.

Enter James Francis Martin, or Jim as he was known, an eccentric inventor from Texas who, according to family records was born on December 13, 1894. There is quite a history, and many modern product formulators, behind the story of his creation of an enzymatic biocatalyst he called “the living water.”

GA R D EN CU LT U R E M AGA Z I N E.CO M

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ARCHAEA

“ t he l i v ing wat er”...

He deri v ed i t f rom se awat er, c ow m a nure, a nd y e a s t It was derived from seawater, cow and unstable, but eventually began to combine Science remains manure, and yeast—simple ingredito form the molecular oxygen (O2) that we mystified about ents that were transformed by a ferbreath and the ozone (O3) that shields us from mentation process into a substance the ultraviolet rays of the sun and encapsulates exactly how the with remarkable qualities. Some of the our current atmosphere. process works results claimed from using this seemingly magical substance read almost During his career, Dr. Carl Oppenheimer speas fiction, but he received a patent in cialized in bioremediation, or the use of biologOctober 1959 – number 2,908,113 – and during his lifetime his ical means to clean up pollution, such as oil spills or other forms of work attracted attention from many influential business people toxic waste. Through acquaintances Dr. Oppenheimer tested some and renowned scientists. of Mr. Martin’s special soil activator with exceptional results. He proposed that the atomic oxygen produced through the process As described in the patent, Martin’s process propagated mistimulated microbes to grow rapidly, allowing them to operate aercrobes by combining filtered cow manure with fresh seawater obically in environments they otherwise could not - think scuba tank containing algae, which fermented in a digester with regular infor microbes. This may explain why Mr. Martin was able to utilize it, fusions of cow manure along with large volumes of fresh water not only in growing soil and making the desert bloom, but in cleaning and small quantities of yeast. The liquid was then further diluted up oil spills and mitigating dangerous chemicals. To this day, science with fresh water until only byproduct and enzymes were left. remains mystified about exactly how the process works.

Given our understanding of archaea there is some logic to explain the fantastic claims made around Mr. Martin’s substance. Ruminants have compartmentalized stomachs that permit anaerobic archaea to thrive. Cow manure contains methane and ammonia, but even more interesting is the reference in Martin’s patent amendments stressing that bacteria found in manure from milking cows are unique. All cattle need calcium to build their bones, but lactating and pregnant cows have an exceptional need to make calcium for both milk and the bones of the calf. In other words, he insinuates that milking cows have stronger archaea.

Popular science tends to scorn and ignore the questions that cannot be answered, but this happens to be where the most fascinating stories lie. Look into the biological transmutation of Louis Kervran or the implosion research of Viktor Schauberger. It is a travesty that more people have heard of Nikola Tesla through a car company named after him than due directly from his discoveries!

This presents an interesting discussion for another article in regards to investigating the relative abilities of lab-derived microbes in gardening products versus those found in Nature. It is also interesting to note that biodynamic practitioners also prefer the manure from milking cows for use in making the biodynamic preparation BD500 horn manure. Again, the idea being that the milking cow organism is considered stronger in order to provide for its young. Many women who have experienced childbirth out there would probably agree!

The truth is, the more we study Nature, the harder she becomes to define. Here is a mantra worth living by, “As long as it works.” 3

Those who have looked closely at Mr. Martin’s process believe that the ingredients produce a special form of highly reactive oxygen through the fermentation process of the archaea, much like those proposed to have formed billions of years ago in the primordial soup. The archaea received the hydrogen for photosynthesis directly from the water and released the single oxygen from the water molecule into the atmosphere as waste. The atomic oxygen (O1) formed from this chemistry is very reactive

The question becomes, is it more important to know the mechanism of Jim Martin’s “living water,” or to put it into use to help clean up and regenerate our world?

B I O Evan Folds is passionate about growing soil, healing the Earth through

nutrient dense food production, the need for personal agriculture, and healing people through vibrant local food economies. Founder of Progressive Gardens, a retail store specializing in hydroponic and beyond organic gardening techniques, Evan honed his craft. After 14 years, he closed the store to focus on Progressive Farms, manufacturer of the Microbe Maker as well as offering regenerative agriculture consulting.

Partner in the Farm-A-Yard project which delivers dynamic and replicable steps to farming residential landscapes, Evan performs lectures and workshops as well as participating in several webinars. He is a contributing writer for Garden Culture, the Biodynamic Association, Urban Farmer, Maximum Yield, and more. He has a BS in Biology and a minor in Religion from the University of North Carolina at Wilmington and resides with his wife and two children in Wilmington, NC. Connect with Evan on FB @progressivefarms, www.MicrobeMakers.com or www.Farm-A-Yard.com.

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BY STEPHEN BROOKES, NPK TECHNOLOGY

Bacteria, your front line of defence against pathogens 20

SYMBIOSIS

Y

ou may have heard of beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizal fungi and that using them deos wonders for your plants.

What’s not as commonly known is that bacteria need mycorrhizal fungi and vice-versa to thrive.They support each other and are mutually beneficial; they form symbiotic relationships.

Interaction between two different organisms living in a close physical association, typically to the advantage of both.

These organisms rule the world; we would not be here without them.

It’s a bacterial battlefield and mycorrhiza are the specialist troops

Around for billions of years before the human race and they will be here billions of years after we’re gone, they are not to be disregarded. They are so small that between 250,000 and 500,000 would fit into this full stop. Bacteria assist the gardener by decomposing organic or ‘unavailable’ material into smaller electrically charged particles ready for uptake. They do this for the plants in exchange for simple sugars, which is most bacteria’s preferred food source.

Another benefit of bacterial colonies is their ability to lock-up nutrients that might otherwise disappear as a result of leaching.

They release these ions as they decompose or get eaten.

Lastly, consider bacteria your front line of defence against pathogens and use them to your advantage. There is a finite amount of food available, and if you have multiple colonies of beneficial bacteria, pathogens are essentially suffocated of food and space as the good bacteria outcompete the bad bacteria. It’s a bacterial battlefield and mycorrhiza are the specialist troops.

Gredit: Growing Healthy Soils | For Greenies

Soil bacteria in compost

Mycorrhizal fungi

Mykos “fungus” and Rhiza “root” is by definition a symbiotic relationship between the root of a plant and a fungus. There are two types of mycorrhizal associations, endo- and ectomycorrhiza. Endomycorrhiza or arbuscular mycorrhizal (AM) will infect the root and grow inside them. In comparison, ectomycorrhiza merely surrounds the root.

Endomycorrhizae and Ectomycorrhizae

Gredit: Plant Science 4 U

Bacteria

Mycorrhizae work by extending the reach of the plant’s roots, meaning they have excellent nutrient uptake abilities and because mycorrhizae are much smaller than roots, they can get to places roots cannot, which unlocks further resources for the plant. If this wasn’t enough, mycorrhizae are also able to increase uptake by producing chelating agents. These chelating agents help to break down the chemical bonds of inorganic chemicals, which can bind to organic matter and make it unavailable for plants. The mycorrhizae absorb these inorganic nutrients and make them available for the plant to use. In return, the plant gives off ‘exudates’ that feed the mycorrhizae and make it a symbiotic relationship.

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SYMBIOSIS

Bacteria and mycorrhizae also form beneficial partnerships Tree root and fungi-symbiosis

Bacteria and Mycorrhizae Symbiosis

Mycorrhizae work by extending the reach of the plant’s roots

It is well-known that mycorrhizae and beneficial bacteria form symbiotic relationships with plants. But, did you know that bacteria and mycorrhizae also form beneficial par tnerships? For example, specific ‘helper’ bacteria can promote mycorrhizae establishments or enhance functionality, which is the case with the Bacillus subtilis strain that has a phosphate-solubilising ability. When pairing Bacillus subtilis with Rhizophagus irregularis (formerly

known as Glomus intraradices), they significantly increased the biomass, nitrogen, and phosphorus accumulation in onion tissues, more than either one can alone. There are many examples of bacteria and mycorrhizae working together for the benefit of the host plant, but the mechanics of why they do this are still vague. What is clear, is that even with our modern age understanding and scientific breakthroughs, we still do not fully grasp what goes on in the rhizosphere or indeed, the mycorrhizosphere. 3

Credit: The New York Botanical Garden

Credit: http://www.sciguru.org

Mycorrhizal Fungi

Rhizophagus irregularis mycelium in in vitro culture with roots.

Gredit: The Hijri Lab

BIO:

Stephen Brookes is a science fanatic, hydroponics obsessed bookworm that works at NPK Technology. He has a bachelor degree of Science in Outdoor Education and Geography, MSc in Nutrition and Scientific Investigation, and is now working on his PhD, researching the effects of different ratios of cannabinoids in the human body. Motto: The more you learn, the less you know!

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BY STEPHEN BROOKES, NPK TECHNOLOGY

EFFICIENCY

EFFICIENCY DEFINED: Being able to accomplish something with the least waste of time and effort.

24

EFFICIENCY

HOW CAN WE TAKE A USEFUL METHOD OF GROWING PLANTS AND TWEAK IT?

S

ome say efficiency is intelligent laziness... I say, if you spend the extra time you gain from becoming efficient on your plants, then it’s all intelligence. Here’s how to become more efficient, it’s up to you whether you use the extra time intelligently!

Hydroponics, by its very nature, is extremely efficient. So, we’re already off to a good start, but how can we take a useful method of growing plants and tweak it, so we have ultimate efficiency when growing plants? We’re going to look at some techniques, products, and processes to increase our productivity, which ultimately, means more money and extra time.

Ty p e s o f E f f i c ie n c y • • •

h

•

• • •

Time: The amount of time you spend taking a plant from seed to harvest.

Money: The amount of money you spend on equipment.

Energy: How much energy you spend on your crops and the energy your room consumes in wattage.

Light output and coverage: Efficiency of the lights and their output, coverage, intensity, and/or spectrum.

Hydroponic systems: Efficiency of water usage and energy Nutrients: Which nutrients give the most out for the least in.

Air movement: The most efficient fans for energy consumption and air movement.

a new per Time:

spective

Time is the most precious commodity we possess, we spend it every single day, and we can never earn it back. If we are to become more efficient in one area, it is time.

The first method to mention is a growing technique called ‘sea of green’, commonly denoted as SOG. The SOG method uses multiple plants and switches them into flower after a short time (typically 1-2 weeks), which allows more crops per year. Rather than growing plants for 4-8 weeks and then initiating flowering, you drastically reduce the vegetative time, make up for the lack of growth with multiple plants, and become more efficient as you can now harvest more often within a year and finish crops quicker. SOG is also very efficient with space, if done correctly, it can maximise light absorption, compared to losing light to the floor with traditional growing methods.

The second method for being time efficient is being super onpoint with your environment. If you’re an avid hydroponics information reader, watcher, or listener, you’ll know by now that environment is critical. It’s key to the health of your plants, but it’s

also key to the efficiency of your time. How many times have you neglected your environment and your plants are several weeks behind going to flower due to a bad environment? Something as simple as low humidity in the vegetative stage can literally add weeks to your full growth cycle. You may have saved money by not buying the humidifier, but you’ve wasted a lot of time by not giving the plants the environment they need.

To become efficient with time, weigh up how much you’re spending against the time it will pay you back and then make your decision. You can always earn more money, but time is invaluable.

M o n ey : Becoming more efficient with your money is a no-brainer, but it can be applied differently to different people. If you are strict with your money, you’re probably quite efficient already. But are you missing that one product that will pay back dividends over the growth cycle or the year and earn you money?

The first example of spending money efficiently is on replacing or upgrading your shade and/ or lamps. A shade’s reflectivity decreases dramatically after a year of constant use, the benefit from buying new shades and/or lamps returns more over the year than the new shade costs.

on

Secondly, using an EC/PPM meter to measure nutrients will save you money. Starting with small amounts, building up the concentrations in peak flower, and then bringing them back down towards harvest means you are more efficient with you nutrients, versus applying 20-40 ml per litre across the whole grow indiscriminately. A worthwhile investment, even for the fiscally frugal.

For the growers that spend money like there’s no tomorrow, take it easy and become more discerning with your purchases.

You’re about to start a new grow, and five new products catch your eye, so you buy them all. At the end of the crop, how do you know which products worked and which didn’t? Become more money efficient and learn patience in your product enthusiasm, they will still be there next time.

As a conclusion to money efficiency, it may seem sensible to buy cheap and save your money, but it doesn’t work in the long-term.

Buy once and buy right. Plan everything and you won’t have to rebuy because your extractor fan isn’t powerful enough to move the air required, wasting your money and energy.

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EFFICIENCY

BUT WHAT SYSTEMS OFFER SUPER EFFICIENCY?

Energ y: Efficiency of energy is what the world should strive for; less emissions, less fossil fuel consumption, and as a bonus, lower energy bills. But as growers, we need to become more efficient with our energy investments, so we can give more to the jobs that require our attention.

As an example, setting up an automatic top-up valve for your hydroponics system rather than spending hours filling up water butts is a small investment that saves a lot of energy over the growing cycle. While you’re filling the water butts, that’s less energy to spend on your plants, so become more energy efficient and save time while you’re at it. Now that’s efficient efficiency.

Possibly one of the most important examples of proper energy expenditure that pays back over time is maintaining and cleaning grow equipment. A blocked water pump, a dirty shade, and sediment deposits in piping will all be a nightmare for time, energy, and money if it breaks or blocks. Spend energy servicing and cleaning the equipment, this is a guaranteed energy saver over the years.

L i g h t e f f i c ie n c y : One of the most commonly asked questions in a grow shop is how to get bigger yields. I would say most growers believe that nutrients have significant impact on yield, when in fact they have the least impact compared to environment and lighting.

The best part of the answer to this question is that the solution is practically free.

You already have lights in your grow room, otherwise you would be growing mushrooms, so the number one way to increase yields in plants, is to increase the leaf surface area exposed to the light. The best way to do this is with the Screen of Green method or ScrOG. This technique involves growing a plant through an extended vegetative cycle, and instead of allowing it to grow vertically, you bend and manipulate the crop through netting to make it grow horizontally. By scrogging the plant, you are ensuring that as much light as possible is hitting the leaves and being turned into energy for the plant to use, which means

the plant will produce as much as it can with the light you are giving it. If you see the light on the floor, that’s a decrease in efficiency and a reduction in yield.

A more advanced consideration with lighting efficiency is the light and the reflector. A 400W lamp is less efficient than a 600W lamp, so 3 x 400W fixtures at equal height would give less output than 2 x 600W fixtures, and similarly, 5 x 600W lights would have less output than 3 x 1000W lights, because 1000W lights are more efficient than 600W lights. Roughly, a 400W lamp produces 725 µmol, a 600W lamp outputs 1100 µmol, and a 1000W lamp can generate 2000 µmol. If you have the height and finances to purchase the better fixtures, it pays off in the long run.

Light is the cornerstone of a good grow room, too many growers neglect it in favour of a fancy bottled super nutrient, all you have to remember is that light (in the PAR range) is energy, more light equals more energy.

H yd ro p o n i c s y s t e m s Hydroponics is an efficient method of growing plants, so we’re off to a great start, but what systems offer super efficiency? If you’re tuned into your grow room, you can fill your water butt to a level you know will last until your next water change with no waste. Although this can be difficult with different temperatures, humidities, and etc., which system is the ultimate for efficiency?

The AutoPot system is a small inlet, gravity-fed system that wastes no water. The valve in the trays allows enough water in to bottom feed the plants, and then shuts off after reaching 20mm.

The second bonus to this system is the energy efficiency, since it requires no electricity at all. The pressure from the weight of the water in the tank is more than enough to distribute it around any size system. As an example, a 1000 litre FlexiTank has a weight of roughly 1000kg (1 ton). That’s a lot of pressure.

The energy and water efficiency is so good that a considerable tomato project in Kenya uses AutoPots, a testament to its highly efficient nature.

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EFFICIENCY

The Autopot watering system

Credit: Otaki Hydroponics

THE NEXT POINT IN PLANT NUTRITION IS ALL ABOUT HOW TO INCREASE UPTAKE EFFICIENCY

N u t r ie n t s: Being efficient with your nutrients is about not being wasteful or overzealous with the amounts you are putting in. Using the EC pen we mentioned earlier will help dramatically in using your nutrients efficiently, but which nutrients are efficient?

GHE has a three-part called FloraGro, FloraBloom, and FloraMicro. According to many experienced growers, this is all they use throughout their grow, and they get the results they want. More grow in the veg stage, more bloom in the flowering stage, and the right amount of micro to steer the plant towards optimum health. Secondly, the range is so stable that it won’t drop out of solution after a while and maintains its pH integrity, a truly efficient nutrient range.

Along with an efficient use of nutrients, we need efficient uptake of nutrients. Mycorrhiza and beneficial bacteria applications all play a massive role in nutrient assimilation. The new technology around beneficial bacteria, such as Mammoth P and their phosphorus mobilising bacteria, is impressive and represents true nutrient efficiency. Along with bacteria and mycorrhiza that enable efficient uptake is nanotechnology, which works by allowing the plant to uptake a lot more nutrients than traditional mineral salts while requiring minimum energy from the plant.

The next point in plant nutrition is all about how to increase uptake efficiency. There’s only so many ways of diluting and packaging salts before we’re just rebranding what’s already out there.

A i r m ove m e n t : Efficient air movement is mostly about saving energy, but efficient air movement pays dividends towards an optimally performing grow room.

The efficient fan is one that requires the least amount of energy to move the most amount of air. These are now the EC (electrically commutated) fans that are available from the big fan manufacturers, such as the Q-Max from Can. These are a vast improvement compared to AC fans over extended periods of time. When the technology to control EC fans becomes widely available and prices start to drop, we should see EC beginning to catch up with AC fan sales.

A final top tip for efficient air movement is all about ducting.

Keep your ducting as short and as straight as possible. Bends and extended lengths all reduce the the fan’s efficiency, and ultimately, the output. It’s amazing how much a few sharp bends in your ducting can decrease fan power, which leads to higher temperatures and a shorter lifespan on the fan.

To summarise, efficiency is king when it comes to the ultimate grow room setup. You’ll have more time, more energy, more money, and you’ll make a positive impact towards reducing the energy strain we are putting on our planet. There’s literally no downside to becoming an efficient grower. Apply this to your daily life, and you’ll be a millionaire eco-warrior, working two days a week with unlimited energy. If you’re really good, you’ll have read this while eating your lunch.

Thank you for reading. 3

BIO: Stephen Brookes is a science fanatic, hydroponics obsessed bookworm that works at NPK Technology. He has a bachelor degree of Science in Outdoor Education and Geography, MSc in Nutrition and Scientific Investigation, and is now working on his PhD, researching the effects of different ratios of cannabinoids in the human body. Motto: The more you learn, the less you know!

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SHORTIES

Eat More Spinach

W

hile the creators of Popeye car toons gave their 1930s sailor

character

spinach

as his muscle enhancing superfood due to a transcription error in 1870, it turns out that they weren’t that far off the mark. The leafy green may have only 3.5mg of iron in a 100g serving, but it also contains about 26% of your daily intake of magnesium.

Make that a full cup (157mg) and the most magnesium-rich of all foods delivers 40% of this impor tant mineral. What does that have to do with Popeye’s muscle power?

Magnesium feeds your muscle functions,

Over half of the population eat a magnesium-deficient diet today. Research connects the imbalance as aiding and abetting poor mental health and depression, insomnia, weight gain, Type 2 diabetes, gum disease, hypertension, osteoporosis, and heart disease. The effects compound over time too.

among many other health benefits.

9 More Magnesium-Rich Foods • • • • • • • • •

Chard: 154mg (1 cup) - 38% DV Dark Chocolate: 95mg (1 square) - 24% DV Pumpkin Seeds: 92mg (1/8 cup) - 23% DV Almonds: 80mg (1 oz) - 20% DV Black Beans: 60mg (1/2 cup) - 15% DV Avocados: 58mg (1 med) - 15% DV Yogurt/Kefir: 50mg (1 cup) - 13% DV Figs: 50mg (1/2 cup) - 13% DV Bananas: 32mg (1 med) - 8% DV

Sources: https://www.drstevenlin.com/the-health-benefits-ofmagnesium-dental-health-and-nutrition/ ht tps://dr axe.com/magnesium-def icient-top-10 magnesium-rich-foods-must-eating/ https://www.thekitchn.com/why-did-popeye-eat-somuch-spinach-the-surprising-answer-191802

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BY CHRIS BOND

BUGS YOU CAN SEE They Come From the Soil and Now, to Kill Them…

​I

f you grow plants in soil of any kind, you are going to attract pests. Some pests are more prevalent in garden and field soils, while other types are more often found in greenhouse soils. When plants are grown in a greenhouse and transplanted into a field, or dug up from a field to overwinter in a greenhouse, this

distinction is less meaningful as we as gardeners and growers often unknowingly bring these stowaways into our various growing environments.

Pests that dwell in the soil can be difficult to detect until the damage has begun. Some species hide from the sun in their dirt homes until nightfall, when they come out to feed. Other insects spend part of their lives in the soil as larvae, feeding on roots for nourishment until they emerge in their adult forms, which are not always harmful to our plants. ​ eing able to properly identify the type of damage without finding B an actual soil-dwelling pest will help to determine the best course of action for control measures. That is, of course, when we can prevent them to begin with, which is even better.

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Fungus Gnats One of the most commonly found pests in greenhouses and growing areas. Adult fungus gnats do not cause as much damage, other than being a potential vector of disease as they move from plant to plant. They are, however, a harbinger of what is going on beneath the soil’s surface. Fungus gnat larvae are voracious root feeders and cause damage to crops the world-over. ​hese pests thrive in moist T conditions. Make sure that you do not overwater any crop you

BUGS YOU CAN SEE

grow. Avoid watering on cloudy and overcast days as well, even if the soil seems dry. Yellow sticky insect traps are a great way to monitor populations of fungus gnats, but also serve as nonchemical control. Every gnat caught can no longer produce eggs and perpetuate their cycle of damage.

exception of rose chafers. There are also numerous chemical grub killers available on the market.

Snails and Slugs

cred it :

Mo de rn f

m ar

com er.

cred it

These leaf-eaters are most active overnight and in the early ​ ​ hemical controls do exist. Fungus gnat adults are susceptible C mornings. Besides the damage to your plants, they often leave to most insecticides, but controlling the larvae is more effective. mucous trails as evidence of their travels. As these are not true The best control for fungus gnat larvae is beneficial nematodes. insects, insecticides will not work. Snails and slugs are mollusks These invisible predators feed on and parasitize fungus gnat larvae and as such if you want a commercially available control, you along with larvae of many pest insects. No garden will need to obtain a molluscicide. Many of the only around or growing media should be without beneficial widely available products get their effectivity 2% of the nematodes. from metal salt derivatives, which are not toxic to humans, but make sure you read all of the total insect precautions to avoid further damage population are Cutworms to your plants. actually crop These are more commonly pests of vegetable field and plant pests If you want a non-chemical crops, but not exclusively. They are general feeders and so named as they often feed at the base of young remedy, try wood ash, plants, taking them down like a beaver chomping trees. Damage copper wire, or the tried-and-true is usually noted in the morning hours with severed plants lying on diatomaceous earth. Crushed eggshells the soil, but in cases where the entire plant was not sheared off, do not actually work to deter snails and they will likely display symptoms of wilt. slugs, and in fact, most research trials show that this actually attracts them as You can control these plant killers they like to eat the egg membrane that may with conventional pesticides or remain in the shells. Placing some food scraps with non-chemical barriers. elsewhere, like potato slices or melon rinds, as Placing a collar of aluminum an attractant can sometimes be effective in keeping them foil around the base of each away from your plants. Make sure to re-bait your decoy spot as plant can prevent these soil often as possible. dwellers from feeding on and killing young plants in the spring.

To prevent these pests, keep the area under your plants clear of debris. Make sure to only water your plants in the morning, so that excess moisture can evaporate during the day and not Grubs provide a moist home for snails and slugs. Another lesser-known ​What are commonly referred to as grubs are the larvae of several preventative is to locate or relocate your compost pile away from different types of insects, most notably, June bugs, Japanese the growing area. Compost piles, especially those that aren’t beetles, and chafer bugs. These are most often detrimental to properly managed, are often a breeding ground for snails and lawn grasses, but will just as readily feed on the roots of flowers slugs. or garden plants. These are not often soil pests in greenhouses or grow rooms, but it’s not impossible to have them find their way in, especially if you bring in garden soil. ​It should be noted that just because they are soil-dwelling, does Like other root feeders, detecting ​ not mean that all the insects you find around your plants mean grub damage may not happen until them harm. Almost all insects spend at least some portion of it’s too late. A telltale sign in the their lives in or near soil, so spotting an insect at the base of your garden, however, is seeing skunks plants is not cause - in and of itself - for alarm. Worldwide, it’s or raccoons digging around. They estimated that only around 2% of the total insect population are both love to eat grubs and if you actually crop and plant pests. In our home gardens, this number see those stinkers pawing through only rises to about 5%. Some common “good guys” that you may your garden or grass, it may be see in the soil are ground beetles of all kinds, fireflies (these guys worth taking a closer look. prey on many soft-bodied insects), hoverflies, predatory spiders, and Harvestmen (a.k.a. “Daddy Long-Legs”). ​ To prevent grubs from Japanese beetles, you can apply milky spore. This beneficial disease can remain active in Before reaching for the insecticide, make sure to positively the soil for up to ten years and will kill Japanese beetle larvae. To identify that creepy-crawler, so you don’t inadvertently knock off prevent grubs from other species of pests, prevent overwatering one of your allies in the fight against pests. The “friendly fire” in the late summer and fall when these bugs are looking for places from that ready-to-use bottle doesn’t distinguish between pest to lay their eggs. They don’t typically lay in dry areas, with the insects and beneficial insects. 3 :G

ard e

ni

K ng

Don’t Kill the Good Guys

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wH no

ow

he

Strat d r i h T e

g

y:

T

BY MICHIEL PANHUYSEN

the microbe option

34

THE MICROBE OPTION

I

n your indoor (or outdoor) garden you can choose from three main strategies to grow your plants. Which is best? It’s a chemical NPK versus soil life based agriculture decision.

Soil life produces substances that plants need, exactly in the form they need it Image credit: www.nrcs.usda.gov/

Strategy One is straightforward. You just put seeds or cuttings in your pots or soil. After that, you only pay the minimal possible attention until harvest time. This way, you do not risk having excellent yields.

Strategy Two is using chemical fertilizers to feed your plants. At harvest time, you will probably have more to do than people who use Strategy One. You also solve plant health issues by chemical warfare.

Strategy Three is using the soil food web to feed your plants. Microbes decompose organic matter in the soil into ‘plant food.’ A grower takes care of the earth, providing enough organic matter and microbes, the living soil then takes care of feeding the plants. In a simple outdoor situation, adding compost guarantees a rich soil with a healthy system of bacteria and fungi. In many cases, this is enough care for your plants. But indoors, the situation is more demanding. Plants perform at their limits. Soil microbes do not produce enough plant food for the fast-growing plants, the reason why you sometimes have to help the plants a bit more with fast-acting organic NPK sources. But microbes always play a fundamental role in the Third Strategy.

I prefer the microbe option, Strategy Three. It’s fascinating to understand that in a natural soil without chemicals, a system of different soil fungi, bacteria, protozoa, nematodes, worms, and many other organisms eat each other and produce poo and other excretions that are useful to plants, like NPK and other elements that plants need, but also their antibiotics, hormones, and plant vitamins. Soil life produces substances that plants need, exactly in the form they need it. No chemical process can come that close to providing the plants’ needs.

A healthy, natural soil produces the best imaginable growing situation for plants.

But let’s be honest. When microbes do the feed production, getting the job done takes more time. Indoors, this can cause problems, because using powerful lamps pushes plants to their limits. On the other hand, a smart modern organic grower knows how to tackle that problem. By supporting the soil with some extra fast-acting nitrogen sources or compost tea.

The Soil Food Web Soil Food Web

Atoms

Back to the basics. Natural growing is a cycle in which dead organic ‘waste’ feeds life. Nature grows itself. In a forest, there’s no need to use fertilizers for trees and other plants.

Dead leaves in fall cover the soil for a reason. Insects, worms, and microorganisms break down leaves, dead branches, dead animals, animal poo, and other organic waste into humus.

Humus is food for underground micro life, which turns it into elements that feed plants, a process called mineralisation.

The other important food source for microbes are the microbes themselves. Never trust your neighbour microbe!

Fungi, bacteria, protozoa, nematodes, and many more soil microorganisms eat each other and decompose all they digest into useful elements that plants can take up by their roots.

Though some microbes cause illnesses, many are beneficial to plants. The soil food web is a system in which dead plant parts and other organic ‘waste’ (like dead animals and poo) feeds soil organisms, which in turn, eat each other to produce plant food. I like this perfect cycle in which dead feeds new life. It can go on forever.

When humans grow plants the situation is a bit different. By harvesting, a grower breaks the cycle, taking away the organic ‘waste’ that soil life needs as a source of food. The soil food web is in danger, unless we restore the organic cycle with compost or manure. Then the natural cycle of life, fed by organic matter, can continue.

GA R D EN CU LT U R E M AGA Z I N E.CO M GARDENCULTUREMAGAZINE.COM

35

THE MICROBE OPTION

No chemical process can come that close to providing the plants’ needs

More than Compost

Simply Nature

A chemically bulked-up plant is considered poor quality these The role of the grower in organic growing is to bring soil into days. We don’t want poisoned and chemical products on our the best possible conditions. The use of compost is a basic plate. We want good quality, purity, and natural food. part of his strategy, but there is more. In the last few years, Naturally grown plants are healthier and more resistant. Using organic farming became more than just the elementary chemical fertilizers make plants weak, so farmers need a lot of compost strategy. In next level organic strategies, they’re using pesticides to protect crops against pests. Chemical fertilizers special sorts of compost and other newly discovered or reare bad for soil life. They kill insects and microbes. The bad discovered products that directly or indirectly make plants guys, and the good ones too. The chemical agriculture way has grow better: worm poo, different insect composts, guano, a negative influence on our planet’s biodiversity. Maybe we fish meal, blood meal, kelp, etc. This discovery process is still survive the impact of the massacre of soil life going on. Working with specific microbes like caused by large-scale food production in an EM bacteria or special fungi to increase plant We are not industrial setting, both indoor and outdoor. growth is another ‘newish’ technique. It’s a fascinating world. the masters of But will our children survive it?

Nature, But what about the endless world of biostimulants that work in different ways on part of different levels? And I am not even focussing on the developments using insects, bacteria, and other organisms to protect healthy plants or cure ill plants.

One can’t help but be impressed observing how powerful Nature is.

Many organic growers experiment in their garden with locally available compost options, like ‘worm poo factories’ or other insect composts. Some brew their compost tea and create recipes. I like the idea that many organic growers make their plant food and soil improvers, bio-stimulants, or whatever you call it. There’s a serious do-it-yourself factor in the organic growers’ community.

Outdoor gardeners re-introduced the use of compost some years ago on a small-scale. Today, compost has seemingly taken over the widespread chemical gardening practices of the second half of last century. Indoor growers have had more mental obstructions to accepting natural ways to grow plants. The first generations of indoor growers were mainly using chemical fertilizers. It took quite a while before indoor organic growing became more accepted. Until several years ago, the sceptical attitude against organic growing was mostly about quantity: ‘Organic sounds very sympathetic. But what about my poor yield?’ The discussion has changed completely.

Now, it’s about the quality. There are some excellent working commercial or do-it-yourself fertilizing strategies available for organic growers, all based on the force of microbes.

we are Nature

Nature grows plants in the purest way, doing so since long before mankind. We cannot ignore this. Humans were always part of natural cycles but started to control Nature.

We are losing the human dimension. Man cannot control and change Nature. We are not the masters of Nature; we are part of Nature. We need Nature and must respect Nature. This is why we need to continue using and developing organic-based strategies, techniques, and products to grow plants, based on the power of microbes. This is why we have to convince the ‘chemicalists’ that we have to stop ‘nuking’ nature and our planet. This is why I wrote this article. 3

This article is based on information in The Organic Grow Book, written by Michiel Panhuysen and Karel Schelfhout.

The Organic Grow Book is also available in French (Le Bio Grow Book) and German (Das Bio GrowBuch), and now in Spanish (El Bio Grow Book). Karel Schelfhout is an old-school breeder. Michiel Panhuysen is a journalist, specialised in growing issues and medical marihuana. His articles are published in English, Spanish, and Dutch.

GA R D EN CU LT U R E M AGA Z I N E.CO M GARDENCULTUREMAGAZINE.COM

37

GREEN PRODUCTS

cool

finds 1

The T i ny Garden

Not a centimeter of wasted space here. Even those who live in the most cramped conditions can grow fresh herbs hydroponically with the world’s smallest garden system. Better still, it gives tall empty bottles usually tossed in the recycling bin a second life, producing fragrant and essential ingredients for the cooking pot, steaming cup, and iced refreshments.

Urban Leaf designed their tiny garden to inspire city dwellers to get into growing their own. No excuses about space limitations or the cost of equipment, anyone can afford to star t a tiny garden. The noncirculating kits star t at $8 from geturbanleaf.com.

2

We e d i n g Ro b ot Imagine a garden plot or urban farm you never had to weed.

Ending the constant battle with weeds led Joe Jones, inventor of the Roomba Vacuum, to tackle creating a robotic weeder.

After two years of prototypes and testing, his Franklin Robotics team raised over $677,000 in crowdfunding campaigns on Kickstar ter and IndieGoGo this summer.

Now in the pre-order stage, the fully automated and solarpowered Ter till weeding robot begins shipping in Spring 2018. Designed uniquely for the classic row cropping layout.

The robot continually patrols and shears off weeds. Growing your own just got a lot easier! Early bird special: $249 (USD), shipping worldwide: bit.ly/get-tertill.

38

PIONEER

Grow Books “Two indispensable books” GARDEN CULTURE MAMAPUBLISHING.COM

NEW

GREEN PRODUCTS

cool

finds 3

Mo b i le Mi c rosco pe

A microscope that attaches to your iPhone that gives you the ability to investigate the tiniest things anywhere - a great way to inspect for plant pests. The device is very compact, yet powerful, accurate, and professional. It uses the camera flash to illuminate, the phone screen for studying the microscopic world, and you can take a photograph of things as small as mite eggs.

The iMicroscope R has a thin profile, aluminum body that secures to the phone case with a nano suction pad. Equipped with an aspherical lens, an embedded scale-bar for measuring the subject, a light guide, and a lens switching button. It functions with the dedicated i-SEEING app and getting great reviews from early fulfilment users. Packages start at $69 (USD) on IndieGoGo InDemand. Ships worldwide: bit.ly/field-scope.

4

Clo se Weeding

Getting to the root of weeds between tightly spaced plants is almost impossible, especially when garden tools are generally designed for working in open spaces. But here’s a nifty little weeding tool made for your finger.

Developed by a landscaper, the Ring Weeder gets its forked root loosening design from the long-handled dandelion weeder but places the whole tool at the soil surface where you need the action. Wearing it on your index finger allows your thumb to get a tight grip on the weed stem, so you’re loosening roots and pulling the whole plant out in ergonomic movements. Made from ABS plastic, priced to fit any budget, comes in packs of 3, and ships just about anywhere from Amazon: bit.ly/weed-ring.

5

Ref re sh m e n to lo g y

The art of the drink. Impress your guests while showing off edible flowers, herbs, fruits, and vegetables you grow. Better still, the glass’ design keeps bees and insects from honing in on your lemonade.

The Halm is just one cocktail glass style from Jakobsen Design, but possibly the best. It holds 300ml, sells for €27.90, (spare straws available) and ships worldwide: bit.ly/get-halm. Get drink design inspired: bit.ly/sip-art.

40

Something

BIG is coming from

Be The First to Test Cellmax’s Newest Products

Free Full Kits to Qualified Growers Apply at: www.cellmax.eu/become-a-product-tester/

Distributed in the UK by:

www.cellmax.eu www.cellmax.eu

BY THEO TEKSTRA - MARKETING MANAGER, GAVITA INTERNATIONAL BV

PART

10

Optimal light levels for cultivars

LIGHT EQ UALS

YIELD?

I

n a previous episode of Light Matters I briefly discussed the optimal light intensity for plants. One of the biggest mistakes made at this moment is using the same (high) intensity for different cultivars. In this episode I will dive a bit deeper into this, also explaining the different results many growers achieve.

42

LIGHT MATTERS

Oversaturating your crop is not only inefficient, it is also detrimental

Brushing up on the basics First, let’s freshen up the base knowledge. Plants are photon counters. When it comes to photosynthesis the number of photons received by the plant is propor tional to the rate of photosynthesis. At high light levels this ratio levels off as we reach the saturation point of the plants. The second impor tant variable is DLI (Daily Light Integral). DLI is the accumulation of light per day. There is only so much a plant can take per day before it shuts down. Any extra light will then hur t the plant more than it contributes.

Other than a maximum optimal intensity, there is also the daily light integral (DLI). This stands for the accumulated light during the day and is expressed in mol per square meter per day.

Not all cultivars are equal

Fig 1 – Photosynthesis versus light intensity – schematic

Experienced breeders know their cultivars inside-out: They know how much light they require, how fast they grow, the EC they require, how they react to light in flowering, how long they flower, etc.

From this schematic example, you see that approximately 80% of maximum photosynthesis requires 50% of the light at saturation point. Adding 100% of light to reach the saturation point only increases photosynthesis 20%. The steeper the curve, the better the return on invested light.

For the average grower these differences are not so obvious. Though flowering time is mostly advised, seldom does a breeder include a lighting recipe. In reality, there is a big disconnect between a grower and the lighting requirements of their crop.

The curve is influenced by many environmental factors.

CO2 and temperature are the main influencers (also called limiting factors). In the next figure you see the relationship between temperature and photosynthesis.

For each cultivar there is an optimal temperature and light level combination. A too high or too low temperature has a very significant impact on photosynthesis. Growing at the right light temperature at a given light level can result in 30% more photosynthesis.

A few very basic observations are in place here: Indica crops usually require a lower PPFD (light intensity) and DLI than Sativa crops, which can sometimes withstand extreme intensities. Hybrids are all over the place, and depending on their genetics, that range can vary. We are talking about >70% more light on Sativas compared to Indicas in some cases: around 600 µmol s -1 m -2 for some Indicas versus 1100 µmol s -1 m -2 for some Sativas. More is not always better. Oversaturating your crop is not only inefficient, it is also detrimental to the photosynthesis of a plant and could very well hur t it.

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43

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LIGHT MATTERS

A good climate is crucial for the photosynthesis process Checking Stomatal Opening There are two very easy ways to check if a plant is transpiring, so the stomata are open. As the transpiration process causes the leaves to cool down relative to the environmental temperature, you can measure the leaf temperature as a stomatal opening indicator. To do this:

Photosynthesis requires a breathing plant Light is one of the primary influencers of photosynthesis.

However, for photosynthesis, you also need CO2 , which the plant takes up through its stomata.

You can regard the stomata of a plant as the mouth of a plant. It’s crucial that they are open, so they will take up CO2 and release oxygen (the gas exchange process), and they release water vapor (transpiration) that influences the temperature of the plant. Evaporation causes cooling of the plant just like your transpiration regulates your body temperature.

Most of the water use by a plant is evaporated through transpiration: think about how many gallons of water you give each plant during its life compared to the wet weight of a mature plant. It is crucial that stomata remain open, to enable photosynthesis (gas exchange) and transpiration.

Without transpiration there is no flow of nutrients from your roots to your plants, and no cooling of your plants.

Stomata open primarily as a light response, by temperature, and turgor pressure from the roots.

Stomata close on plant stress signals. One of the primary causes of stress is water deficit. When relative humidity is low, plants lose a lot of water through their stomata. When the roots are no longer able to provide enough water to cool the plant, the stomata will close. Temperature, light, and even the EC of your nutrients (driving the osmosis process at the roots) have an influence on the transpiration rate and stomatal opening. High air flow is an accelerator for the transpiration rate (hence, not blowing too much air through your crop constantly!).

1.

Use an accurate infrared thermometer to measure the leaf temperature and compare this to the environmental temperature. The leaf temperature should be a few degrees below the environment temperature.

2. Take a leaf between the inside of two fingers (think about Spock: “Live long and prosper.”). If the leaf feels cool to the touch, it is transpiring.

This takes a bit of practice, but is a method you can always apply without instruments.

I recommend you do this at the beginning of the light cycle, and towards the end. If at the end of your light cycle your leaves are not cooling anymore, that means that keeping the lights on will not have any effect. It may indicate that you have a climate problem, a root problem, watering problem, or even an EC problem, but an important cause for this is also light level and DLI. There is only so much a plant can take.

It is evident that a good climate is crucial for the photosynthesis process. A high transpiration rate can cause the stomata to close. When they are closed, there is no photosynthesis, so all the light you apply will only heat up the plant and cause it to burn. It’s a waste of energy and detrimental to the health of the plant. Driving a plant closer to the light saturation point requires an extremely well-maintained climate, good root system, optimal water availability, the right temperature, and an optimal amount of CO2 . Increasing the CO2 level does not always cause a better stomatal opening when all other factors are not optimal, on the contrary!

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LIGHT MATTERS

One of the factors is the plant’s built-in clock, the circadian rhythm

As we have seen in the first par t of this ar ticle, photosynthetic efficiency does not have a linear dependency to the light level. The higher the PPFD, the lower the increase in photosynthesis you will get when increasing your light level. Also take into consideration that in nature, plants seldom get the optimal PPFD: in the morning and the evening it is too low, while on a clear, sunny day in the heat of summer they get way beyond the saturation level at top canopy level, causing the leaves to go droopy. Now we’ll get back to DLI…

Light levels and DLI for optimal crop development We have seen that some cultivars require much less light than others. Then we saw that giving too much light reduces the efficiency of that light, and causes stress on plants, making them “close down,” and even hur ting the plant. It is vital for the optimal development of a plant to provide it with everything it needs, and that those limiting factors are in balance. Light is just one of those limiting factors, but it is a crucial one.

I have seen tests where customers replaced their highintensity HPS lighting, usually with light regimes of 1000 µmol s -1 m -2 or more, with lower efficiency or lower wattage from other light sources, such as MH or LED, and get better results. They are surprised that they get better results and attribute that to the light quality or efficiency of the light source, while they have simply been oversaturating their crop to star t with. Lighting the plants under a lower PPFD with HPS would probably have given them the same results.

There are a few strategies to optimize PPFD and DLI. First, you could just reduce the PPFD and maintain the same light cycle. However, the intensity of light is often related to flower density and quality. So, a second strategy is to reduce the light hours at maintaining the high PPFD, for example, 10 hours instead of twelve, decreasing the DLI. This also enables you to run shor ter than 24 hour cycles: 10 hours (or even less) on and 12 hours off. The 12 hours off is impor tant to keep the plants flowering (caused by the Pr/Pfr cycle), but for some cultivars a shor ter night period is sufficient. Reducing the day cycle can speed up the cultivation period by 5-10%.

Now, there are a lot of other factors that determine whether you can just change (reduce) your cycle time to

less than 24 hours, not all cultivars will react favorably to it. One of the factors is the plant’s built-in clock, the circadian rhythm. Plants do adapt to different rhythms, though. Another issue you might run into is that you will need to use your light in high electricity cost periods (offhours power is usually cheaper), and for greenhouses, it is no option at all, as they have to deal with the sun cycle.

Application in greenhouse cultivation strategy During the summer the DLI in greenhouses is normally plentiful. In the winter periods, though, the DLI in a greenhouse, specifically when you are up nor th, can easily drop under 5 mol per day. When you grow long-day or light period independent plants, such as tomatoes, you just turn on your supplemental lights on longer to get a sufficient DLI. For shor t-day plants, however, you need to be able to give all that light in a 12-hour period. To reach sufficient DLIs in the winter requires almost indoorintensity supplemental lighting, up to over 600 µmol s -1 m -2 , if you want to achieve the same DLI as during the rest of the seasons. Take into consideration that you only need that intensity during the really dark months, so during a limited period. In the summer the lighting fixtures will even block light, leading some growers in hor ticulture to take out all their (thousands of ) fixtures during that period. That much light in a greenhouse will even require cooling of the greenhouse, and, of course, the investment in all this light for a shor t period of use is quite high.

There are a few alternatives to overcome this. One is to plan your vegetative periods exactly during the darkest periods of the year, so you can have your supplemental light on for longer periods (up to 20-24 hours) to get a decent DLI. However, most growers don’t veg their crops for 6-9 weeks, and most have overlapping crop cycles for continuous production.

Knowing now that some cultivars require a lower DLI offers you a second option: grow different cultivars in the winter! This can dramatically reduce your investment in lighting and still get you good results.

Combining these two strategies may well be an excellent way to cope with the dark months and maintain the quality of your crop.

Sometimes giving less light is more. 3

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WHAT’S GROWING ON

Who’s Growing

t a h W Wh

ere

1.

Frenchay, Bristol

in the UK

Keepers of the Soil Breaking ground eight years ago, Sims Hill Shared Harvest introduced people in Bristol to local, seasonal vegetables grown in a cooperative enterprise. The member-owned business started out with 20 members who funded the community supported agriculture project on 2-acres a couple of miles from the city centre. Today, the 85-member strong CSA works 5 acres with several poly-houses and an historical glasshouse.

But Shared Hill’s impact is far more significant. Blessed with something few other growers in the UK have, the highest quality soil for food production, they have restored 5 acres of Grade 1 agricultural soil within the city to its rightful purpose. They protect its quality with permaculture methods and its continued use as agricultural land through the Blue Finger Alliance. This wide-ranging collaboration includes the Soil Association, fellow urban farmer Edible Futures, Bristol Food Policy Council, and more committed champions of the land.

2.

Bradford, West Yorkshire

Sowing carrots and change... what a way to grow!

Learn more: simshill.co.uk and bit.ly/sims-visit

Regeneration

With the help of Lottery funding, this small nonprofit organisation is making headway transforming wasted ground, supplying the Great Horton ward with affordable organic produce, and creating new opportunities. Run by member workers and volunteers, they work to educate, train, and offer therapy to the community at large.

Permaculture grows sustainable community.

Learn more: hcf.org.uk and bit.ly/hcf-skipton

credit: Walter Lewis

Much of Cecil Avenue’s 100-plot allotment was nothing more than unused land gone wild until the Horton Community Farm project came along. This workers’ cooperative cleared the overgrowth from about 1.75 acres of the space, bringing the inner city land back to life and putting the vacant, dilapidated poly houses back into action.

GARDENCULTUREMAGAZINE.COM

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3.

in the UK

St Hilary, Cowbridge, Glamorgan

Enabling Eaters In 2010, the organisers of farmers markets around Cardiff acquired 10 acres of good soil near Cowbridge to create a model for sustainable livelihoods that could strengthen communities and make them more resilient. The Riverside Market Garden quite captured the interests of area residents. Most of the startup funding came from people in the neighbourhood. Not only was it successful, but this registered community-owned social enterprise now has over 150 shareholder members.

They have 5-acres of ground that produce organically grown fruits and vegetables which supply booths at several weekly farmers markets, restaurants from the local vicinity to Cardiff, and keep many in a good supply of locally grown foods through their CSA program. The bi-weekly veg bag scheme has no vacancies.

Back to the Future

Holcombe Rogus, Mid Devon Credit: Patrick Frew, Declan Donnelly/Ballymoney.gov.

credit: Greenham Reach

4.

Obviously, South Wales needs more local growers.

Learn more: bit.ly/RMG-local and bit.ly/RMG-feature

Can you live off-grid and generate a livelihood off the land as a smallholder in the 21st century? The Ecological Land Cooperative set off to create a successful model for doing so in 2013 with a 5-year planning permission on 22 acres of greenfield. Three families have taken on long-term tenure at Greenham Reach, working to build a business as ecological food and herb producers, starting in 2014. They live in solarpowered caravans, get their water from rainwater harvesting, and have composting loos. They are tomorrow’s pioneers, affordably taming the wild organically and individually as a cooperative.

The first two farmers to arrive did turn a profit in the third year (2016) while the last family is a year behind them in getting established. Being deemed a success by the council looks promising, which is the prerequisite for obtaining permanent building permits. However, the ELC is already putting together a new multi-tenant farm development in East Sussex.

Building a bridge between people who want to grow and accessible land.

Learn more: bit.ly/ELC-greenham and bit.ly/ELC-press 3

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AND THE

THE

THE

GOOD BAD UGLY

54

MICROBES

M

icrobes are found all around us and play a very important role in the world we live in, including breaking down dead material, cheese production, water treatment, energy production, phosphate recovery, and unlocking nutrients for plants to use.They are integral to the recycling of many elements in nature, but on the flip side also cause devastation

in the form of disease. There is a constant battle between those which are beneficial and help us to thrive and those that are detrimental to our existence, be it causing sickness or wiping out crops. As so many microbes are beneficial, it is not as simple as sterilizing everything to destroy those which cause diseases. Therefore, we require a better understanding about the pathogenic organism in question to enable developing and applying that targeted treatment.

Microbes are microscopic organisms that we can split into three main types: Bacteria, Fungi, and Viruses. However, there are other types, including Mycoplasma, Protozoa, Archaea, Heterokonts, and some Algae. But since this is such an immense subject, we are only going to touch on the main contenders that we are most familiar with that are associated with plants.

Time for a quick biology lesson on the differences between these three groups of microorganisms, which have all evolved in a variety of ways to survive. What differentiates these groups is their method of reproduction (increasing numbers), colonisation (how they grow and thrive in an area), obtaining nutrients (feeding habits), respiration (breathing and energy production), and cell type (structure and/or shape). To make this easy, we have summarized this in Table 1.

Essential soil is the result of a diverse network of microbes working together

Beneficial: A.K.A. “The Goodies” The soil is teeming with microbiology in all forms, and there is still so much we do not understand about it. Essentially, soil is the result of a diverse network of microbes working together to break down dead matter and produce a nutrient-rich media for plants to grow in. Within the soil there are also colonies of mycorrhizal fungus and bacteria which form a symbiotic relationship with the plant, helping to release locked up nutrients from the soil, while obtaining the nutrition in the form of sugars from the plant.

The environment around the roots, known as the rhizosphere, is where these microbes thrive. Without particular microbes, some plants, such as a legume, will not grow until soil colonization occurs, and therefore, the soil requires inoculation.

Quite often it’s possible to add inoculants to the soil in the form of powders or liquids which contain microbes, such as Bacillus subtilis (bacteria), Trichoderma (fungi), and arbuscular mycorrhizae (fungi) amongst others which help the plant to thrive by forming that irreplaceable symbiotic relationship. The more diverse the microbial community in the rhizosphere, the more diverse the plant community will grow.

Table 1.

Microbe

Reproduction

Size

Bacterium

Spontaneous replication.

Asexual only.

Cell division by binary fission.

0.1-10 µm

Fungus

Asexual and sexual.

Spore production.

Cell division by mitosis.

2 µm-1 m

Virus

Inject DNA into a host cell and makes host cell synthesize new viruses.

0.01- 0.25 µm

Feeding habit and nutrition

Cell Type

Photosynthesis. (Yes, this is correct, but not in all bacteria.)

Decomposing dead material or chemical compounds.

Form a mutually beneficial relationship with another organism (symbiotic relationship).

Prokaryote - very simple, no distinct organelles, genetic material floats around in the cell. Forms colonies.

Relies on digesting of material in its environment, dead or living.

Form a mutually beneficial relationship with another organism (symbiotic relationship).

Depends on the host to provide energy.

Eukaryote - contains distinct organelles which can produce energy and genetic material contained in a nucleus. Forms colonies.

Acellular - one cell with no distinct organelles/components that invade other cells.

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THE

THE

AND THE

Photo credit: Western Sydney University

GOOD BAD UGLY

Close-up of arbuscular mycorrhizal fungi

Photo credit: Dhvani, Kharman, Taysha and Naylin

Nitrogen-fixing bacteria

56

Photo credit: Fun With Microbiology

Trichoderma

it is not as simple as sterilizing everything to destroy those which cause diseases

MICROBES

Keeping the mycorrhizal number up within your root zone will definitely have a positive impact on both the health and productivity of the plant. Just make sure you have the correct type!

Nitrogen-Fixing Bacteria Plants are very reliant on these little babies, as they turn unavailable nitrogen from the air into NH3 with the aid of a lot of ATP (energy) and enzymes, such as dinitrogenase. The most common ones include Rhizobium and Bradyrhizobium that form this symbiotic relationship within nodes on the roots legumes (soybeans, chickpeas, etc). They require anaerobic conditions (no oxygen), as dinitrogenase is rapidly deactivated by oxygen.

Rhizobium is one of the most commonly applied rhizobacteria, along with Azospirillum, for non-leguminous crops.

Other bacteria, including Agrobacterium radiobacter, break down inorganic phosphate in the soil and make it available to the plant to absorb. These are known as phosphate solubilising bacteria, and again, help to increase the plant’s nutrition.

Trichoderma Trichoderma are one of the most common soil dwelling fungi and described as opportunistic, avirulent plant symbionts (Harman et al, 2004). To put that into language we all understand, it means that this fungus will not cause disease, however, it will find its source of nutrition from more than one plant at a time. Within this species of fungus there are some which become parasites of other fungi, whereas others will form long-term relationships within roots by colonising them. Research has shown that these bad boys, once they take hold, can change the plant’s metabolism, enhance root growth, increase yield, improve nutrient uptake and resistance to abiotic stresses (temperature, drought), and even help protect them from disease.

Now that we know a little bit more about some of the “goodies” in the microbial plant world, let’s take a look at our enemies that can so easily cause devastation in our once peaceful plant world. Here is a quick low down on the most common diseases: Fusarium oxysporum • Other name: Fusarium wilt • Type of microbe: Fungus • Plants affected: Banana, tomatoes, sweet potato, tobacco, and soybeans.

• Favourite conditions: Likes to feed on dead and decaying matter and thrives in warm moist soils. At 30°C (86°F) the root infection will flourish and grow at an optimal rate. Poorly drained soil.

• Symptoms: Wilting, premature leaf drop, chlorosis (batches of leaf damage, yellowing patches, which leads to necrosis where the cells die and turn black), stunted growth. The lower leaves will turn yellow first and start to fall off. Damping off can also occur.

• Spread: From either infected plants or via water that contains the fungus. So, equipment such as pH meters and measuring vessels that come into contact with infected solution.

• Treatment: Fungicides offering resistance to these is increasing.

Use resistant plant varieties. Research shows Trichoderma viride helps control Fusarium. Increasing the pH of the root zone to 6-7 also helps to keep it at bay, discouraging it from blooming.

Fusarium wilt damage

Photo credit: www.turfdiseases.org

Mycorrhizal Fungus These are highly efficient nutrient absorbing fungi that make elements, such as nitrogen and phosphorus, available to the plant. There are several types, all of which have their own characteristics that encourages particular species of plants to flourish. For example, Ectomycorrhizae forms a sheath around the absorbing roots of trees and produces a network of hyphae (fungal root type system) that prevents other species from invading and attacking the plant. On the other hand, Endomycorrhizae penetrate the cell wall of the root cortex (outermost layer) and form their hyphae within the cells of most herbaceous plants.

Pathogens: A.K.A. “The Baddies”

Photo credit: http://crosscreekseed.com

they can start to take over and kill the beneficial microbes

Pythium damage

Pythium • Other name: Root rot • Type of microbe: Formerly a fungus, now classed as a parasitic oomycote.

• Plants affected: Strawberries, most crops in recirculating hydroponic systems, tomatoes, and cucumbers.

• Favourite conditions: Warm (28-32°C/82-90°F optimal), wet conditions, recirculating open root hydroponic culture (NFT), low oxygen content to water, still or stagnant water.

• Symptoms: Stunted growth, yellowing plant, slimy brown roots, black tips on roots, and rotting smelling roots.

• Spread: Feet of fungus gnats. Dirty equipment.

• Treatment: Fungicides and crop rotation to prevent infection of the secondary crop.

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MICROBES

Bud rot damage

This list is by no means complete, with other fungus, such as Phytophthora and Rhizoctonia infecting plants at the same time as Pythium, completely rendering the plant defenceless and weak.

Viruses, such as potato blight virus and cucumber mosaic virus, also cause crop failure to the respective plants, and in history, brought about famine.

Ergot is a very peculiar fungus found in rye, wheat, and barley which has also caused problems for humans. Not because of crop failure, but from consuming bread containing a lot of grain contaminated with this fungus. The unfortunate thing about the mycotoxins produced by ergot is the neurotropic activities that can cause convulsions, hysteria, hallucination, and erratic behaviour. In the middle ages, ergot was rife throughout Europe, and the epidemic, known as Saint Anthony’s Fire at the time, is now thought possibly responsible for the witch hunts.

Prevention is easier than the cure!

So, how do you keep the nasty villain microbes at bay and at the same time keep your superhero microbes happy? There is no easy answer to this one. Generally, but not always, disease-causing microbes prefer warmer, more humid, and anaerobic conditions.

So, it is a balancing act of keeping the environment more favourable for beneficial microbes. If the numbers of the pathogenic microbes increase rapidly, they can start to take over and kill the beneficial microbes, by using up oxygen and nutrient supply.

One thing to note though, prevention is easier than the cure. So, practice good housekeeping with equipment and your room. Don’t leave dead leaf matter in the room where it can create a nice little haven for fungus to grow. Clean your room and equipment between crops. Achieve the conditions more favourable for good microbes by oxygenating the root zone with an air stone, periodically dosing low levels of stabilised hydrogen peroxide, don’t allow water to pool around your root zone, and keep the nutrient solution cool, (below 21°C/70°F), as the “baddies” will not thrive and outnumber the “goodies.” Also monitor pH and keep it at 6 (always maintain the pH between 5.5-6.5).

Plant inoculates are fantastic, these are powders or liquid of beneficial microbes, which you can add to your tank or media to increase the beneficial microflora, but always do your research on what type of microbes your plant needs. I mean, it would be pointless and a waste of money putting Endomycorrhizae on to your lettuce!

To help prevent leaf and fruit disease, keep good air movement in your room, monitor humidity, and keep it on the lower side (though always above 40%) if problems have previously existed. Sterilizing seeds can also help to prevent these diseases entering your room, as once an infection moves into your room it can be very hard to completely eradicate. Therefore, make sure that the plants you introduce into your room are disease-free. Prevention is easier than the cure! 3

Photo credit: www.uni-goettingen.de

powdery mildew damage

Photo credit: www.ilovegrowingmarijuana.com

Photo credit: The Spruce

Botrytis cinerea • Other name: Bud rot, noble rot • Type of microbe: Fungus • Plants affected: Strawberries, grapes, rhubarb, and other bulb plants.

• Favourite conditions: Humid, wet conditions with low air movement.

• Symptoms: Grey furry growth on the surface of fruit and flower sets.

• Spread: Airborne or waterborne spores.

• Treatment: Fungicides, increase air movement around plants to prevent pockets of moisture forming about the fruit.

AND THE

Erysiphe cichoracearum and Sphaerotheca fuliginea • Other name: Powdery mildew • Type of microbe: Fungus – a variety of different fungi causes this.

• Plants affected: Cucumbers (very susceptible), melons, strawberries, tomatoes, and most plants.

• Favourite conditions: High humidity with warm temperatures and poor air movement.

• Symptoms: White powdery/fur-like spot growth on the leaves and stem.

• Spread: Aphids and other insect that suck sap from plants.

• Treatment: Fungicides, potassium bicarbonate, genetic resistant strains, and milk.

THE

THE

GOOD BAD UGLY

Dr. Callie Seaman is a plant obsessed Formulation Chemist at AquaLabs – the company behind SHOGUN Fertilisers and the Silver Bullet plant health range. She has been in the hydro industry for 15 years in research development and manufacturing and had previously worked on the VitaLink range. She has a PhD in fertiliser chemistry and a BSc (HONS) in Biomedical sciences and loves nothing more than applying this knowledge to pushing the boundaries of nutrient performance.

Bio

GARDENCULTUREMAGAZINE.COM

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INSECT POLLINATORS

it e d b y t h e p la n t s v is duced the bees pro y f r u it b e t t e r- q u a li t

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sing on a flower A bumble bee brow

ithout insect pollinators, we just simply wouldn’t have many of the varieties of fruit and vegetables we enjoy eating. The survival of more than 80% of the plant species growing in the wild and 84% of crops grown by humans depends on the different species of insect pollinators. That’s

right – without honey bees, bumble bees, butterflies, moths, and hoverflies – many plants just couldn’t produce seeds and the fruit and vegetables we eat.

Insect pollinators make a tremendous contribution to agriculture, for they have a direct impact on many crop yields. Lots of farmers rent beehives and install them near their fields to ensure a good harvest.

Apples, apricots, almonds, cherries, cucumbers, kiwis, melons, peaches, pears, peppers, plums, strawberries, sunflower seeds, tomatoes, watermelons, and zucchinis are all produced thanks to pollination by bees and certain other insects.

Many pollination experiments have been conducted in Canada and internationally. They covered flowers with very fine mesh nets in these studies to prevent bees from reaching them and installed beehives nearby. It was found that the plants visited by the bees produced better-quality fruit because their ovules were all or almost all fertilized.

The plants where the flowers were covered with nets bore stunted fruit, since their seeds didn’t fully ripen.

Thousands of Bee Species It’s often thought that all pollinators have yellow and black stripes, and many people can’t tell the difference between wasps and bees. In fact, there are more than 20,000 species of bees on our planet, and lots of them aren’t black and yellow – some are green or orange or even white.

Some of these many different bee species are solitary, while others, like honey bees, live in communities. Surprisingly, most bees are solitary insects.

It’s not only bees that transfer pollen from one flower to another.

Hoverflies are also excellent pollinators.

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INSECT POLLINATORS

Honey bees are one of the approximately 20,000 bee species on the planet

Birds and bats and other animals pollinate plants, too, but insects are the largest group of pollinators by far. A few plant species, like magnolias, for instance, are pollinated by beetles.

Other plants, including carnations, are mostly pollinated by butterflies, while hoverflies do the job for umbellifers (celery, carrot and parsley family). To a lesser extent, flies and ants also help pollinate plants.

But bees and bumble bees are the best pollinators, and honey bees are the most important insect pollinators of all.

Butterflies are also excellent pollinators

Here are three easy ways to attract insect pollinators to your vegetable garden: 1. Grow Nectar-bearing Flowers If you grow edible plants in your garden or on your patio, it’s a good idea to add some plants whose flowers produce nectar – the sweet liquid that many insects feed on. The flowers will attract various insect pollinators and improve the yield and quality of your vegetables and fruit.

Suitable plants for growing in your garden or on your patio belong to the Asteraceae (yarrows, asters, cosmos, daisies, rudbeckias, marigolds, etc.), Lamiaceae (lavender, mint, bee balm, sage, thyme, etc.) and Apiaceae (dill, angelica, coriander, fennel, etc.) families, all of which produce abundant nectar that insect pollinators love.

Fennel is especially popular with hoverflies, very docile pollinating flies that resemble honey bees.

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INSECT POLLINATORS

An insect hotel is not only ver y useful but can make a beautiful focal point in your garden!

2. Create an Insect Hotel

3. Sponsor a Beehive

Another great idea is to build an insect hotel and install it in your garden or on your patio. What’s an insect hotel? It’s a wooden bookshelf-like structure with a roof, lined with various materials like logs, hollow pieces of wood or bamboo, bark, brick, and pots where insects can reproduce, rest, or even hibernate in winter.

For a really exciting experience and close contact with nature, you can sponsor a beehive and become an amateur beekeeper! A few companies rent out urban hives. It’s a way to counter declining bee populations while educating people about how helpful these insects are, their habits, and how to maintain a hive.

It’s best to add a wide range of materials to your hotel, to attract different insect species. You can start with short hollow pieces of bamboo or reeds, for instance, to draw solitary bees.

Urban beekeeping is more popular than ever, and the number of hives installed in North American cities has been growing constantly in recent years. In and around Montreal alone, for instance, there are currently more than 500 hives and nearly 400 of them in Chicago! The British Beekeepers Association (BBKA) has seen membership steadily increase from 8,500 people in 2008 to more than 24,000 today.

Mighty impressive figures, wouldn’t you say?

If you add a few bricks with mud-filled holes to your hotel, some insect pollinator species will tunnel into them. Small logs with different-sized holes (3-14 mm/ ¹⁄ 8 - 5 ⁄ 8 ”) drilled into them will also serve as shelters. Just be careful not to drill all the way through the logs.

Finally, to attract bumble bees, add a small empty wooden box with a one cm-wide (¹⁄ 2 “) hole drilled in one end, and a piece of board to serve as a take-off and landing pad.

Be sure to place your insect hotel on a stake or wall, in a sunny spot protected from the wind.

Since bees are so concentrated on their chores and are relatively unconcerned by humans, there’s actually little risk for beekeepers of being stung.

If you’d like to install a hive in an urban vegetable garden, enlist the help of an experienced beekeeper specialised in urban beekeeping to prevent various problems like swarming.

It’s especially important to avoid having too many hives in the same area, as that could have a negative impact on native insect pollinator species.

If you’re interested in beekeeping, you’ll need to learn the basics of bee biology and colony management. The best way to familiarise yourself is to take some beekeeping training and join a beekeepers’ organisation.

In addition to offering training, some specialised beekeeping companies will extract the honey from each hive at the end of the season and give it to their clients. Depending on its size, a bee colony in a small hive can produce from 10-15 kg (22-33 lbs) of honey annually. 3

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BIO MASTER CHO

BY NICO HILL

Korean Nat ural F arming

Master Cho K

orean Natural Farming (KNF) is a fairly new movement in the growing scene. It has quickly built up a draft of followers all keen to capitalize on the natural world around them and enhance the soil food web already present in their soil. Every giant redwood starts off as a tiny seed, and KNF is possibly the best representation

of this analogy in the current agricultural climate.

It all star ted with a thought from the brain of a guy called Cho Han-Kyu, or Master Cho as he is most commonly known. He was born in the year 1935 in Suwon, South Korea. Up to the age of 29, he worked on his family’s farm, from which he then went to study natural farming techniques in Japan, under the tutelage of three teachers: Miyozo Yamagashi, Kinshi Shibata, and Yasushi Oinoue.

When he returned to South Korea, Master Cho combined his learnings in Japan with more traditional Korean techniques of farming, par ticularly fermentation (think kimchi, but for plants). His ideas were first put into practice in 1966 when he set up the ‘Labour Saving Abundant Harvesting Study Group.’ After years of experience and a few shenanigans along the way, he set up Natural Farming Life School and Research Farm in 1995. The school has since trained over 18,000 people in the finer ar ts of KNF. Farmers in Hawaii, surprisingly, were some of the quickest to pick up the idea and run with it.

Even to this very day, Master Cho has been vital in spreading and tutoring the techniques involved in KNF, and it has slowly and steadily been gaining credibility as a viable alternative to intensive agricultural practices, which work with forces of nature rather than against it. It has proved to be one of the most successful sets of techniques that a gardener can enjoy. Learn KNF techniques in the ar ticle Indigenous Microorganisms. 3

M A ST ER C H O WA S I N C A R C ER AT ED A F E W T I M E S B Y H I S G O V E R N M E N T, U N D E R PR ESSU R E FR O M B I G AG R I CU LT U R A L CO M PA N I ES W H O D I D N OT SEE E Y E TO EYE WITH HIS TEACHINGS

Referring to the events up to 1995 as ‘shenanigans’ is somewhat underplaying things to be completely honest. Master Cho was incarcerated a few times by his government, under pressure from big agricultural companies who did not see eye to eye with his teachings.

Considering that most of his teachings meant that a farmer could rely on the natural world around them, and not what they bought off a shelf, it is no wonder why. These setbacks did not put him off, however, and he continued his work despite their best effor ts to silence him.

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BY NICO HILL

Korean Nat ural F arming

Indigenous Microorganisms They are incredibly resourceful little feckers...

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reating a good IMO collection is the fundamental principle of successful KNF practice. Microbial soil fauna makes it all possible. This ar ticle shows you everything you need to know to harvest your own beneficial microbes, cour tesy of Korean Natural Farming.

INDIGENOUS MICROORGANISMS

Apex Chumps application. So, for example, rather than going through all Us humans love to think we are the pinnacle of Nature’s the IMO stages 1-5 (ending up with an awesomely active handiwork. We reckon we have got it all nicely sewn up, potting compost), you could use your IMO 2 simply as an perched arrogantly at the top of the food chain with all inoculant for a more typically hydroponic media, like coco. arrows pointing straight towards us. What we casually forget to realise a lot of the time is that we are actually a Why even bother doing it though? food source, but just not for something with big muscles or Yes, I can imagine the lazier ones of you thinking, “Eff sharp teeth. Microbes love a little bit of man flesh and they that bro-chacho, home boy here can just buy me a bottle have developed all sorts of techniques to get it. Infectious of mike-o-rowsha and save my diseases kill over 17 million people precious time to chong down some a year around the world, according epic doinks, Jeheeez!” My response to the World Health Organisation.

In a fully to this would be a shake of my head They are incredibly resourceful little and a kiss of my teeth followed by a feckers. functioning soil quick retort about the variety being food web, variet y the spice of life before moving on On the flip-side, they aren’t all bad. to the effectiveness of correctlyEvery ‘yin’ has its ‘yang’ and microbes truly is the spice sourced local microbial life. Then, are no different. There are all sorts of life most likely, I’d follow up those factof good things microbes can do bombs with some sort of witty for you, and this article is all about analogy about how far you’d get in harvesting the ones most suitable life by only ever having one friend. for plants! Plants have evolved over millions of years alongside bacteria In a fully functioning soil food web, and fungi, so by isolating them and variety truly is the spice of life. While plonking them into a sterile growing some specific strains of fungi or media, you couldn’t be creating a bacteria are known to have benefits more unnatural environment for (Trichoderma or Mycorrhizae), the them. Some plants (e.g. orchids) whole theory is to go for maximum won’t even germinate without diversity of bacteria, fungi alongside higher level ‘recyclers’ a microbial association. A diverse bacterial and fungal of organic nutrients like protozoa and flagellates. Combining association can be key to opening a plant’s full genetic this diversity with the principle of targeting groups of expression, enhancing those three magical F’s: flavour, form, microbes from certain forests or wildlife areas that share and function. characteristics with your grow room (or associations with your crop) leave you with an extremely active and unique What the blazes are IMOs? microbial culture. This micro herd will provide the basis for Indigenous Microogranisms (IMOs) are basically free-range all the nutrients, proteins, enzymes, and amino acids your microbes. Bacteria and fungi that naturally occur all over plants could want, all from an organic source, and improve the world, in their natural habitats. Having diverse climates the overall soil structure as they do so. throughout the world gave rise to a hugely varied range of microbial life, each with their own functions and benefits.

Where would you get them from?

What we are doing here is targeting and harvesting the This is possibly the most important question you could ask ones we think most suitable for our grow rooms. Don’t just yourself when looking to start an IMO collection. You want isolate yourself to a pack of spores from the dusty shelf of to target areas that will offer rich microbial life. Ancient your local hydro store, you have the entire natural world at forest areas will likely provide a wide range of bacteria and your fingertips! fungi, having been untouched by our destructive human hands as much as possible. Fungi particularly, are a lot slower IMOs (and the use thereof ) occupy a few distinct stages to establish and proliferate than bacteria, so untouched within the Korean Natural Farming practice. Here we are and undisturbed natural areas are good to look for when going to look at the first two stages, IMO 1 and IMO 2. The making an IMO. Glancing around the forest floor for dead first stage being collecting the microbes, and the second wood with visible mycelium on it will indicate whether the stage being storing the microbes. Once you get to the area has a nice and healthy microbial population. second stage, you have a usable inoculant for almost any

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INDIGENOUS MICROORGANISMS

Here we are going to look at the first two stages, IMO 1 and IMO 2 Step 1: Dry cook some rice Areas immediately surrounding the Ancient forestr y crop that you are actually growing areas will likely Wash your rice (saving the water can also be beneficial to harvest to make some LAB if needed) and microbes from, as they are more provide a wide then add 1 ml/L of OHN and 2 ml/L likely to have a direct association range of bacteria of FPJ to the rice, to make the rice with the crop you’re cultivating. For slightly more appealing to beneficial example, harvesting microbes from and fungi microbes. Fully cook the rice, but woodlands surrounding fields of not to the point where it sticks corn, may well have more beneficial together and clumps up. You want microbial life specifically for growing granular rice, to allow for maximum airflow throughout the corn. Also, you need to think of the climate that you will mass. Yes, we all have put the microbes in. For example, a grow room with a different rice cooking large temperature difference between night and day would methods, but using just benefit from microbes already acclimated to a similar over half the water you environment in the natural world. would normally should get you the consistency Beneficial microbes are literally everywhere. you are looking for.

Cooked, but dry and still granular, maybe slightly al dente!

Step2: Fill the container Mycelium close up

Mycelium growth is easily visible on material on the forest floor. You will see white spider-webby strand type growth over dead and decaying organic material. If the mycelium is visible, then you know you are dealing with beneficial microorganisms. You know it’s good as visible mycelium is 4µm (micrometers) or larger, and disease-causing fungi are usually much smaller than this being less than 1.5µm, not visible to the naked eye.

How to make IMO’s Now, you have a rough idea of where you need to collect your microbes from. So, what will you need to do to collect them?

You will need: · A container · Some rice · Some paper towels · A stapler · A protective cage · Rain cover (tarp/umbrella)

· · · · ·

Optional OHN and FPJ Brown sugar Scales Mixing container Storage container

Fill the container with the rice. The containers used are typically wooden, and breathe well. Avoid anything made from materials treated with any chemicals that will be bad for microbes. If there are none, pop some holes in the base of the container, to provide airflow to the base of your container and a little ‘ladder’ of fallen bits of rice for biology to ‘climb’ up. Fill the container with rice to the halfway point, and cover the top with a paper towel, securing it in place with a stapler. This provides a breathable lid and a pocket of air above the rice that creates an Here are some environment for the microbes examples of containers to breed in. used to collect IMOs Step 3: Place the box Take the box to the spot where you have found a good source of biology. Put the box on the ground, gather up some nearby material with visible mycelium and place both underneath and around the rim of the box. Do not put it in the middle of the paper lid as it may sag and tear. Place the protective cage over the box to prevent rodents from getting in. Set up the tarp or umbrella over the whole thing to protect the box from rainfall, but still allow for good airflow.

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INDIGENOUS MICROORGANISMS

You want granular rice, to allow for maximum airflow throughout the mass

Step 4: Come back a few days later

Step 5: Putting the microbes into storage

After 4-5 days, you will have your IMO 1! It is best to avoid This is where you make your IMO 2. Weigh the mass of harvesting on a rainy day, or a day immediately following the rice. Then add to it an equal weight of brown sugar, a shower, but sometimes this can’t be avoided, just try to sometimes slightly more. Gently massage this into the rice avoid any excess moisture getting in. in a big container making sure you When you pull back your paper lid, have evenly distributed and mixed you should see a nice white and /or the rice and sugar together without It will now be a light grey fuzzy mass all over your being too vigorous or aggressive lit tle biological rice. It will now be a little biological about it. Adding the sugar draws cake, packed full of beneficial life the moisture out of all the biology, cake, packed full from the surrounding area. If you forcing them to sporulate and of beneficial life see any angry-looking black moulds essentially go into a cryo-sleep, or it has a nasty smell, be wary about ready to use at any given later date. using it, you may have not got the best of batches that time.

Once mixed together, it will start to feel slightly wet and now you need to put it into a suitably sized storage container. However, if you feel the mix has become You will notice a lovely fuzzy white to greyish bloom too wet, then add some more sugar to draw up some of in your container. Some greens and pinks may be the excessive moisture. If the biology becomes active and present, but if dominated by black, then discard. begins bubbling from too much moisture, it will quickly become less effective.

C’est Fini – Now what?

That’s it! You now have some unique, indigenous microbes to use at your leisure. Make sure you label, date, and store them in a cool, dry place. Check it periodically. If you start to see it bubbling at all you need to quickly add more sugar to stop the activity.

Nico Hill - Hydro Nerd at InfiniteMonkey.com Nico has been a keen gardener for many moons. Bitten by the hydroponic bug back in 1998, and hasn’t looked back since! After many years as a hobby, Nico’s career in Hydroponics had its start working for Aquaculture in Sheffield, the UK’s largest and most forward-thinking grow shops of the time. He was then hired by Hydromag, responsible for the hydroponic content. From there, he has worked with CANNA, as editor of CANNAtalk, author of the research articles, and delivering seminars throughout the UK to grow shops on the finer details of cultivating in a hydroponic environment.

Nico is now writing for companies in the hydroponic industry.

Bio

Now, you just need to create a diverse IMO collection, as diverse as possible, so get back out there and get some more! Diversity really is key, so gather microbes from as many different locations that you think would possibly be beneficial, then use a bit of them all when it comes to the inoculation stage. Not only will you have a great range of biology, but also have had a few nice excursions into some forests from it as well! 3

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FAKE T

OR NOT?

BY THEO TEKSTRA, GAVITA INTERNATIONAL B.V.

he biggest response I ever got on a social media post was April 1, 2017, when I “introduced the Gavita Laser Lights” on Facebook. For those who want to read it, I included a link at the bottom of the ar ticle. Obviously, this was an April Fools post, but it was incredible to see how

long this thing lasted, and I still get (serious) questions and inquiries about it.

Mixing fiction with credible data can make a compelling (false) argument, and sometimes reality is stranger than fiction. So, here is the challenge: I will write a short article every edition, and it is up to you to decide whether this is fact or fiction. Call it an exercise in critical thinking and fact checking.

FAKE or not?

Discuss EPISODE 1: Green Light online at GCMag.co/Fake-or-not. The truth comes out March 1, 2018.

Green Light

So, why are plants green? This is an easy one. Your eyes don’t lie: Most plants are in fact green. They absorb mostly the red and blue light, reflecting the green light.

The scientific proof which predominantly influences our ideas about plant response to different wavelengths of light was produced by Keith McCree in 1970 (published in 1972), in his famous paper “The action spectrum, absorptance and quantum yield of photosynthesis in crop plants” – leading to the definition of PAR light and the, now famous, McCree curve (fig 1).

The McCree curve clearly shows a dip in the spectral response around the green light, which also shows that red light is most efficient.

Most horticultural lighting manufacturers nowadays acknowledge this research, and with the introduction of LEDs it is now much easier to create a spectrum which is much more like the McCree curve, providing optimal lighting for the plant at maximum efficiency.

You can see this in greenhouses and indoor facilities alike all around the world nowadays: This purple kind of glow is a result of mixing only red and blue LEDs, as they are the most efficient for plant lighting (fig 2).

Fig 1: McCree curve, quantum yield, original publication 1972.

76

Fig 2: Red and blue LED lighting in a greenhouse.

(Source: Colorado State University)

FAKE OR NOT?

Open for Debate.

Bring Your Knowledge to GCMag.co/Fake-or-not.

The truth comes out March 1, 2018.

You c an se e this in gr e enhouse s and indo or f acilitie s alike all ar ound the wor ld

Mixing f ic tion with cr e dible dat a c an make a c omp elling (f al se) ar g ument

It is reflected (no pun intended) in the spectrum of most LED plant light products on the market today: they mostly only have predominant red and blue light. You can also see that effect back in the green LED products which are used as a safe light during the dark cycle of a generative short day plant, without disturbing the flowering cycle. (fig 3)

Fig 3: Green light options in a grow room.

(Source: MonsterGardens YouTube video) So, there you have it, both supported by science and pro ducts evolving from this science. Plants are green because green light is very inefficient for photosynthesis, and it can be used during the dark cycle as a safe light, not interfering with the flowering cycle of short day plants.

Discuss EPISODE 1: Green Light online at GCMag.co/Fake-or-not.

The truth comes out March 1, 2018.

The April Fool’s post that inspired Fake or NOT? FB.com/theo.tekstra/posts/10155185892803620 3

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SHORTIES

2 CROPS IN 1 S

weet potatoes are popular due to their great flavour, culinary versatility, and superfood health benefits. However, if you’re only eating the root, you’re missing out on some of the good stuff this plant has to offer. Though not common in grocery stores, the leaves are edible, giving you an early and late season harvest from the same spot in your garden.

Short on ground space? Growing season too short? They can also be grown in large containers; 20-gallon size or more if you want a good-sized sweet potato harvest. Note that all Ipomoea batatas plants have edible leaves. So, the black ornamental types should contain excellent antioxidants.

CREDIT: Herbal Plants - blogger

A recent study discovered that sweet potato leaves offer five times more Vitamin C than the root. They also pack three times greater Vitamin B6 value and ten times more riboflavin.

So, they provide health benefits comparable to spinach, but with a much milder flavour and a more tender leaf.

Harvest the older leaves through the growing season, and leave the young new growth to support plant energy. Remove all larger stems and use them like spinach. Eat sweet potato leaves raw in salads and juicing, or sautéed to a wilt in olive oil with some onion, garlic, or ginger.

Edible leaves of the Ipomoea batatas

Learn more: https://www.prevention.com/food/healthy-eating-tips/sweet-potato-greens

Baked sweet potato

CREDIT: Delish.com

They provide health benef its comparable to spinach, but with a much milder f lavour and a more tender leaf

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A SEA OF GREEN IN 2018

SHORTIES

DELIGHTFUL ARTILLERY

I

t’s common to plant marigolds around the garden as a natural rabbit inhibitor. They detest their scent, but what about other things we grow just for their beauty? You might want to add some Sweet Alyssum to the garden too, both the veggie patch and flower bed. So lacy and delicate looking, yet tough as nails in high temperatures. It adores

the sun so much it gives thanks for the heat by filling the air with honey-sweet perfume every afternoon.

Definitely a win-win kind of annual! Alyssum is at its height of fabulousness when grown from direct soil-sown seed.

Buy plants the first season. Shake them out at fall removal to scatter free seed. When the seedlings start appearing in late spring, transplant them where you want them. The difference between soil-grown seedling plants and those from a greenhouse cellpack by midsummer is remarkable. Cellpack starts can’t hold a candle to repositioned sprouts.

Biocontrol Source: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoverfly#Systematics

Alyssum flowers

CREDIT: TheSpruce.com

It’s benefits, however, are far greater. Alyssum deserves a spot in the gardener’s cache of natural weapons. It attracts hoverflies, which offer you a range of benefits, beginning with being pollinators. But hoverfly larvae eat aphids and leafhoppers. And in feasting, the larvae not only provide biological pest control, they reduce your chances at having issues with disease those pests spread.

Alyssum deser ves a spot in the gardener’s cache of natural weapons. It attracts hover f lies, which offer you a range of benef its, beginning with being pollinators.

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