ChardyMake mine a

BY Tori Wilson

TRENDS PERPETUALLY COME and go, yet some — much like the revamped 80s mullet or imperfect audio of vinyl — manage to recycle their way back into popular youth culture with a surprisingly fierce resurgence.

Within the wine world, no drop has made a comeback quite like that of chardonnay, and deservingly so.

Hailing from Burgundy, France, this distinctive varietal is exceptionally complex and diverse.

If there’s anyone you can trust for a chardonnay recommendation, it’s hospitality guru Kat Dehavilland, coowner of Bar Amelie. One look at her wine list and it’ll be evident what her tipple of choice is. Rotating every four months, Bar Amelie features a whopping 13 chardonnays on its list, covering all bases of styles and select regions from within Western Australia, Australia, and France.

Some her top picks include:

“This recent addition is a direct result of Subiaco locals asking for a bigger chardonnay or ‘old school’ style,” says Kat.

Hailing from Mt Barker, the vines that grew the fruit for this wine were planted purposely to produce a fuller style chardonnay than those seen in recent years. Barrel-fermented with 100 per cent malolactic conversion, this wine is complex, textured and bold. Melon fruit flavours of the malolactic ferment reduce the acidity to provide a more generous and fuller style that contrasts with the cooler, citrous expressions associated with the region.

 By the glass $12, $18

 By the bottle, $57

Having initially made its way back into vogue with a leaner style achieved using subtle oak and less ‘malo’ to allow fruit purity to shine; now even the old school, bold and buttery examples that fell out of favour with the masses have regained their rightful place.

Thankfully, this versatile vino is effectively flowing through the streets of Subiaco, with the top drinking dens in the area all pouring excellent expressions worth exploring. Here are some to sip your way through.

This wine is a true expression of chablis terroir, respecting the region’s environment and traditional treatment practises. Known for light, dry white wines with flinty minerality and crisp acidity, the winery is renowned as a benchmark for the iconic region, the primary reason it has made the cut on Kat’s list.

 By the bottle $105

Valley, VIC)

Released only in years where the quality is deemed to be exceptional, this wine is made from a selection of low-yielding and mature vineyards. The Bernard clone or French clone adds elegance and length to the wine, which was whole bunch pressed and barrel-fermented in new and seasoned oak.

“The founder James Halliday is an unmatched authority on every aspect of the wine industry, so Coldstream was always going to be an essential addition to my list,” says Kat.

 By the bottle, $140

Bark

Bark is your favourite local hang-out serving up an affordable yet delicious drop of chardonnay appropriate for any day of the week.

“At Bark, our wine list and beers aim to showcase the best of Western Australia. Margaret River is the golden child of WA, but the Great Southern’s cooler climate gives it so much to offer. Some of our favourite wineries are from here.”

Bark keeps things simple with one crowd-pleasing chardonnay on its list.

The latest cool kid on the block when it comes to best Subi wine bars, Lums knows its chardonnay. With six on its list, spanning Western Australia, Australia and France (including a Chablis Grand Cru) it rotates its wines by the glass regularly, so there’s always something new to try.

2013 STREICKER (Wilyabrup—Margaret River, WA)

This wine is flawlessly balanced with the optimum level of fruit, oak and acidity. With notes of lemon and lime blossom, subtle hints of cream, tones of butter and vanilla and a decent oakinfluence, it’s decadent and delicious.

Best value for money, according to bar supervisor Emin Smajic.

 By the bottle, $140

2017 CLOUDBURST (Margaret River, WA)

If you’ve got something to celebrate, the 2017 Cloudburst is the undeniable choice. It’s a rich, buttery, oakinfluenced masterpiece, says Emin. With an unusual yet incredible combination of hazelnut, toasted almonds, peach and pineapple notes, it’ll linger in your mouth with a long finish and have you craving more.

 By the bottle $410

APRICUS HILL CHARDONNAY (Denmark, Great Southern, WA)

This smooth drop is buttery with notes of vanilla, savoury cashew and gunflint, yet still approachable for those used to a lighter white. Made with only first-run juice, it's clean and brilliantly clear yet distinctly oak-influenced, having been fermented in new and second-use French oak 500-litre puncheons.

Rotating its wine line about every three or so months, with favourites kept on longer to please the crowds, Cassie says it’s safe to say Apricus Hill will be on for a while to come.

 By the glass, $14

 By the bottle, $66

Unicorn Bar

Unicorn Bar co-owner Annabel is all about her chardonnays, and keeps a well-curated list of three on the go at all times.

“I love chardonnay, so we do rotate quite regularly. I like to have a ‘summer’ chardonnay - like the Port Phillip - in the warmer months, and then move into a richer style over the colder months,” says Annabel. Currently, Annabel features a selection of three Australian chardonnays on her list - here are two of them to try below.

PORT PHILIP ESTATE, QUARTIER CHARDONNAY 2021 (Mornington Peninsular, VIC)

This tasty drop exudes punchy flavours of ripe pear, peach and stone fruit with discreet oak spice and a distinct aniseed perfume. Expect a gentle chalky texture, balanced acidity and notes of dried pear and cinnamon in the aftertaste.

 By the glass, $16

 By the bottle, $65

SINGLEFILE CHARDONNAY 2022

(Great Southern, WA)

This modern-style chardonnay is bursting with citrus zest and stone fruit characters and presents bright aromas of lemon curd and peach with a subtle mealy character. The fruit for this wine was chilled overnight and fermented in approximately 25 per cent new and 75 per cent one-year-old Burgundian oak barriques, providing a subtle hint of spice to the profile.

 By the bottle, $67

Juanita’s

This relaxed-meets-refined Subiaco mainstay is the ultimate spot to sit alfresco or lounge about indoors with a large glass of glorious chardonnay in hand.

Carefully selected boutique wineries dominate its ever-changing wine list, with two impressive chardonnays served by the glass on the list.

“I always try to have an Australian and French chardonnay on pour to show off the amazing range chardonnay has,” says Emma Hymus, the brains behind the drinks list.

MARIS SOL 2021 (Geographe, WA)

“I am seeing more and more good wines coming from the Geographe region, and Maris Sol are small batch wines made to be expressive of the vintage and region,” says Emma. Maris Sol is an oaked Australian style of chardonnay with a rich and creamy palate.

 By the glass, $15

 By the bottle, $65

FAMILLE PAQUET 2021 (Macon-Villages, Burgundy, France)

From the opposite end of the spectrum, the Paquet is unoaked, typical of the region and is a fresher, more fruit-forward style of chardonnay than the bold Maris Sol, with a saline finish.

“I love white Burgundy for their freshness, minerality and elegance. The Famille Paquet is all of those things,” says Emma.

 By the glass, $19

 By the bottle, $85

The Subi Hotel is a local institution that takes its drinks list seriously. Experience the rich history of winemaking with vintage treasures from Howard Park, or savour the essence of Margaret River with the smooth and flavourful offerings of Moss Wood, Lleuwin Estate, and Pierro. If you’re looking for something just that little bit extra, the Woodlands Estate is a stand-out choice.

This impeccable wine is a true expression of the Margaret River’s terroir and showcases the region’s unwavering dedication to quality winemaking. This bright, pale straw wine presents aromas of white peach, orange blossom and apricot flare on the nose, with notes of fine French oak and flinty ferment. The palate is equally as enticing, like a basket of orchard fruits with a rich mouthfeel and bright acidity to balance. Excellent value for money.

 By the glass. $15

 By the bottle, $72

Having opened its doors only late last year, Koba applies careful attention to detail when curating its distinctive Asian fusion menu, with a deliberate focus on locally sourced ingredients — and its wine list is no different. Serving all Australian wines, three out of four of the chardonnays on its list hail from the queen region of chardonnay, Margaret River.

Finisterre is the mainstay on the list and hard to look past, belonging to the premium Margaret River winery Robert Oatley. This complex wine is full-bodied with beautiful texture, featuring notes of roasted nut with undertones of fresh citrus and white blossom.

 By the glass, $13

 By the bottle, $35