Southern Belle

SOME CALL IT THE PARIS END OF ROKEBY ROAD - WE JUST LIKE TO CALL IT ONE OF OUR FAVOURITE PLACES IN TOWN FOR A DELICIOUS BITE TO EAT OR CHILLED GLASS OF WINE.

BY Lisa O'Neill

LOCALS KNOW THE southern end of Rokeby Road, with its cafes and bars spilling out onto the sidewalk, is likened to ‘the Paris end’ of Rokeby. It’s effortlessly charming with established businesses decades into their tenure, dotted with a couple of fresher spaces and bursting with the Subiaco people who run and frequent them. What makes this end of Subiaco so captivating? Take a stroll with us and find out.

There is always a line of people queueing for the pleasure of Jean Claude treats around lunch hours, and it’s been that way since Swiss baker Jean Claude opened his doors in 1997. The hardest part of my pregnancy in 2012 was the intense craving for a Jean Claude’s La Parisienne stuffed with smoked salmon, cream cheese and capersand it was the first thing I ate once my daughter was born. Bliss. The long and thin baguettes with only a few fillings (these are no dagwood dogs) have captured the hearts and stomachs of Subi locals.

Beyond the rolls, the Patisserie is well-known for its delicate strawberry tarts, eclairs (the coffee version sends one into raptures), millefeuille and croissants. The patisserie has recently expanded to include a seated dining space, including outdoor tables and chairs to watch the constant queue while you feast.

With its mint-green exterior, pot plants and established trees welcoming patrons, Melograno’s outdoor space is constantly bustling with people and puppies. The inside is a calm oasis in comparison, with multiple quiet spots to enjoy a fresh juice or one of the all-day breakfasts the café is famous for. The café has established a firm fan base in its nine years of operation, which co-owner Josh says is due to their priority of building solid relationships.

“Engaging our customers, staff and co-workers through honest interactions is high value for us,” Josh says. “We’re well known for prompt and friendly service, plus people come from near and far for our quality coffee and cozy décor.”

Come with an appetite, too, as the lunchtime salads are fresh and delicious; plus Josh recommends Melograno’s Scrambled Special, which will never leave the menu due to its unwavering popularity.

The Corner Store

I think this might be the beating heart of Subiaco. Once you’ve met The Corner Store’s passionate owner Hamish, you might just feel the same. Hamish transformed his café St Lucy’s, into The Corner Store over COVID, recognising the need to change to a takeaway model to survive that period, while maintaining a connection with customers.

“We’re very connected to community, and The Corner Store has become the place you go for bits of everything,” Hamish says. Since limits to physical gatherings have diminished, The Corner Store now has plenty of outdoor seating to soak up some Subi sunshine with your mug of flat white, and Hamish is frequently there chatting to customers.

An art gallery opened in February behind the café with Kimberley artist Nuriah Jadai, as Hamish feels drawn to connect with the indigenous community and create a truly inclusive café culture that’s available to people from all walks of life.

Beyond local, Hamish is thinking global, partnering with reusable coffee cup business OurKinds so The Corner Store is 100 per cent reuse - and has been for eight months. Ideally, bring your own resuable, but if you don’t, The Corner Store has one for you to borrow and return at your leisure.

Juanita’s

There’s nothing like winding up a day with a glass of something delicious from an outdoor table at Juanita’s. If South Rokeby is Paris, Juanita’s is the Arc de Triomphe, the perfect place to people-watch and soak in the beauty of life.

It’s hard to believe Juanita’s is only five years old, it is so firmly woven into the fabric of Subiaco’s soul. Whether you love an icy glass of bubbles, a bold red or refreshing ale – owner Luke says Juanita’s philosophy is ‘come as you are, drink what you like’.

“We have always wanted Juanita’s to feel like an extension of our guests’ homes,” Luke says.

On top of the drinks and easy breezy vibes, a small menu of light bites accompanies the drink list perfectly, from charcuterie platters to the crowd favourite, duck liver parfait.

It’s also a fab place for a function for 15 to 100 people, so if you have something to celebrate, we highly recommend booking some space at Juanita’s.

Boucla

Another long-term feature of Rokeby Road, Boucla is a delightful combination of Greek pastries, hearty meals, solid coffee, and colourful décor in honour of its Mediterranean roots. While it recently ha new owners, they’ve promised to keep the classic menu the way it is and the eclectic artwork and tapestries, too. We’d expect riots to erupt if the chocolate ricotta cake or souffra supplies were cut, so thank goodness.

The lunch menu is lit up by Mediterranean staples including a falafel and tabbouleh bowl, a shakshuka with a large wedge of Turkish bread and zucchini corn fritters with tzatziki. The cabinet is heaving with daily salad specials, savoury pastries and freshly baked cakes (so, leave room for dessert because . . . souffra).

For the ideal night out with a bunch of friends, book yourself a table (ahead of time, she’s busy) at Lady of Ro. The sidewalk table will give you the full Lady of Ro experience, with new tables recently giving the space a nice facelift. Like Boucla, the food is Mediterranean inspired and designed to share, which is excellent news because you get to taste every delicious item on the menu. If you’re with a smaller group and must choose, put the Hebrew eggplant and slow-cooked lamb on your order, and thank us later. Lady of Ro is also one of the few BYO options in Subi, so bring your favourite bottle.

A neighbourhood trattoria that somehow delights both young, old and in between is a rare find. This atmospheric Italian with its red and white chequered tablecloths, outgrew its birthplace on the corner of Nicholson and Derby Roads two summers ago, forcing us Shenton Parkers to walk further for our dinner. It’s worth the hike, dishing out simple and tasty bowls of pasta (the penne con broccoli e pancetta hits the spot every time) and more substantial dishes, such as the on-point chargrilled baby goat chops or 500-gram spatchcock. And for kids, meals are equally as impressive in quality, and mine must be restrained from licking their finished bowl of penne ragu here.

Another mainstay of Rokeby, this bright-as-a-button florist has been operating here since 1979, with new management taking over last year, but the same florists remain.

“The team here are artists in floristry, we put a lot of creativity, beauty and love into making the flowers,” says owner Alex.

Spectacular bouquets with varying

IF YOU WANT the lowdown on Nick Cave’s dietary habits, pop into Juanita’s and have a chat with owner/ operator Luke Foyle, who is back in house after catering for the rocker’s national Carnage tour.

Luke says it was demanding work, but he got to know Cave and Warren Ellis very well during the tour as he threw together pescatarian dishes for the 15show tour serving the band after the show each night.

Sadly, though, for Foyle he had to cut his gig short as his father, John Foyle, passed away suddenly at the end of the tour which, finished up in Perth. Foyle’s friend and mentor, Gwenael Lesle, who now runs On The Pass With Gwen – a private catering company, stepped in and catered for the Perth leg of the tour while Foyle rushed to his Dad’s side in hospital.

“It was a tough time,” says Foyle. “But Nick was very understanding, and he sent flowers with a really lovely card. I had lots of one on one chats with him and learnt a lot about him.” colour palettes constantly fill the store, ready for the everyday romantic or on-a-whim buyers. Those who order before 3pm can also expect same-day delivery.

Also, Subi-ites might remember Gianranco Monti, the affable Juanita’s barman who was the ultimate tequila and agave expert.

He was a barman by night and sales manager for Mextrade by day. After being promoted to head up Mextrade’s Melbourne office he was made redundant. Those missing his cocktails at Juanita’s are keeping their fingers crossed that he heads back across the Nullabor.

In the meantime, Luke is busily preparing, once again for Subi Spritz’s Long, Long Lunch.

If you haven’t got your tickets yet, better get in quick.

“We also adore doing arrangements for events - from corporate events to weddings - the florists are extremely talented and can cater for any occasion someone wants to commemorate,” Alex says.

Cottage Garden also hosts a range of beautiful gifts, which are mostly locally made and high-quality products, such as Flowerbox Home fragrances, Anna Chandler cushions and textiles, Cynthia Poh handmade jewellery and the upcycled One Jolly Rabbit toy bunnies.