Stage One Report by gabihowarth

STAGE ONE

SUSTAINABILITY?

FAST FASHION? GABRIELLE HOWARTH

How can brand transparency close the gap between consumer attitudes towards sustainability and their actual buying behaviours with a focus on the fast fashion industry? 2

How is the production of this report sustainable? 1.

The font used throughout the report is Garamond, regarded as the most sustainable font due to minimal ink usage.

The report has been printed on 100% recycled paper.

All pages are printed double sided to minimise paper usage.

The report is printed using vegetable based inks.

The bag that the report was submitted in has been made from the authorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s old denim clothes. The author requests that the bag is returned back so that it can have further uses in the future.

Ethics This submission is the result of my own work. All help and advice other than that received from tutors has been acknowledged and primary and secondary sources of information have been properly attributed. Should this statement prove to be untrue I recognise the right and duty of the board of examiners to recommend what action should be taken in line with the Universityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s regulations on assessment contained in itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s handbook.

Gabrielle Howarth N0735657 Word Count: 7560

Signed: G.Howarth

Print Name: Gabrielle Howarth

Date: 20th January 2020

Contents INTRODUCTION PAGE

TITLE

L I T E R AT U R E R E V I E W

DISCUSSION

PAGE

TITLE

2.1

Introduction

4.1

Introduction

2.2

The Issue

4.2

Attitudes and Beliefs

2.2.1 Fast Fashion

4.2.1

Generational Divides

2.2.2 Factors influencing fast fashion

4.2.2 Price and ethical decision making

REFERENCES

2.3

4.3

Motivations

PAGE

TITLE

Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs

6.1

References

Mind the gap!

1.1 Introduction

2.3.1 What is the gap?

4.3.1

1.2 Rationale

2.3.2 Why does the gap exist?

4.3.2 Needs Vs Wants

6.2

Bibliography

2.4

6.3

Image References

2.4.1 Pro environmental behaviours

4.3.3 A ctual Behaviours Vs Intented Behaviours

6.4

Figure References

2.4.2 The Conscious Consumer

4.4

Trust

6.5

Appendix

2.5

The use of social media in driving sustainable purchasing

4.5

vercoming the Attitude O Behaviour Gap

6.5.1

Blank Survey

6.5.2 Survey Results

Total Transparency

4.5.1

6.5.3 Focus Groups

4.5.2 Brand Transparency

6.5.4 Diary Study

4.6

It’s Nothing New

6.5.5 Industry Interviews

4.7

Case Study: Ocean Refresh

6.5.6 Consent Forms

6.5.7 Gantt Chart

6.5.8 PESTLE

1.3 Aim and Objectives

The beginning of the end

2.6

2.6.1 Why transparency matters in the fashion industry?

2.6.2 Rana Plaza collapse

2.7

Research Gap Analysis

ocial media as an Affecting Factor S of Sustainable Consumption

M E T H O D O LO GY

PAGE

TITLE

PAGE

3.1

Methodological Structure

3.2

Sample Group

3.3

Secondary Research

3.4

Primary Research

3.4.1 Online Survey

CO N C LU S I O N S

TITLE

3.4.2 I ndustry Interviews

PAGE

TITLE

5.1

Key Insights

3.4.3 Focus Groups

5.1

Brand Scenario

3.4.4 Diary Log

5.3

Conclusion

3.5

5.4

Recommendations

Limitations

1.1 Introduction

1.2 Rationale

The following report revolves around the research question

A recent report published by the United Nations stated that “there are only twelve years for global warming to be kept at a maximum of 1.5C, by which only half a degree will significantly worse the risks of extreme heat, floods, droughts, and poverty for millions of people” (Chief Executive, United Nations). Consequently, sustainability has come in full force with many people around the world demanding brands to act in a more sustainable and transparent way. Sustainability today is slowly coming to the forefront of the majority’s consciousness around the world.

‘How can brand transparency close the gap between consumer attitudes towards sustainability and their actual buying behaviours, with a focus on the fast fashion industry?’

Firstly themes will be identified within the topic and existing research will be examined. Primary research will then assist in the bridging of gaps that emerged when reviewing literature, the results of which will be critically reflected upon and utilised to formulate insights which can then be used by marketers within the future of the fashion industry.

The global fashion industry is extremely energy consuming, polluting and wasteful and despite some modest progress, fashion has not yet taken its environmental responsibilities seriously enough causing it to be the second biggest polluting industry. Fashion players need to swap platitudes and promotional noise for meaningful action and regulatory compliance while facing up to consumer demand for transformational change.

Ultimately, the report will advise with springboard opportunities and recommendations. 8

1.3 Aims and Objectives

Literature Review

To investigate whether brand transparency could be the catalyst for fast fashion brands to remain successful in an ever changing sustainable world.

2.1

he purpose of this literature review was to ensure a solid foundation of knowledge within T the subject area of sustainability, focusing on the fast fashion industry, was obtained. A variety of culturally varied secondary research was reviewed, offering insightful and meaningful perspectives from numerous researchers.

1. To investigate how the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;new ageâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; (Millennials, Gen Z) cohorts are involving sustainability into their buying habits.

6. To explore how brand transparency can be introduced within the fast fashion market.

2. To explore the psychological mechanisms that govern the buying motivations for ethical consumption.

7. To determine whether brand transparency can bridge the attitude behaviour gap between brands and consumers.

3. To explore consumer trust in brands and how this can influence buying habits.

The literature review explores the current sustainable world we live in with a focus on what is currently driving sustainability as well as fast fashion. Today, consumers live in an era of profound awareness and are regularly exposed to unethical practices, however, successfully sustaining an ethical lifestyle remains a challenge for consumers. Many theories and findings will be discussed, whilst additionally highlighting the limitations, challenges and opposing views. Conducting a literature review assisted the discovery of the gaps in knowledge and unresolved issues to be identified.

4. To identify how fast fashion can remain successful within the fashion industry. 5. To investigate how brands are implementing sustainable methods within their processes.

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2.2 The issue The global fashion industry is worth in excess of £1.1 trillion and employs more than 250 million people within its supply chains, which extend from the cotton fields of Africa and India to the garment factories of Bangladesh and Vietnam, ultimately to the mostly middle class consumers ingrained in the culture of consumption. The globalised fast fashion trade has been under the sustainable magnifying glass in recent years. There is no doubting the substantial negative impact the industry is having on the environment and local communities. The industry uses extreme levels of energy, produces highly toxic chemicals and does not promote equal pay or good quality working conditions and environments. As fast fashion continues to thrive in the western world, these issues will simply not go away. However, as these issues are becoming more prominent in today’s society there are growing consumer concerns about the impact fast fashion brands are having on society and the environment and therefore ethical consumerism is gaining momentum and is seen as a backlash to the societal issues created by the industry’s over-production. According to Revesz (2019), since the 1970s, fashion products have been consumed at a faster rate than the planet can replenish. Revesz claims it would require the equivalent of 1.7 planets to produce enough resources to deal with consumption rates. As discussed by Romm et al (2016), climate change is now an existential issue for humanity and has occurred at a much faster rate than scientists predicted (Hodson, 2017.) There is a significant threat to both the environment and communities today and in the future. 12 12

A few major impacts already identified include record heat waves across Europe and the Arctic(J.W Intelligence, 2018), as well as rising sea levels and increased pollution, Chen and Chai (2010). It is hard to believe that the clothing industry accounts for 10% of global carbon emissions and one of the largest polluting industries in the world. It is said that one pair of jeans uses 400 megajoules of energy, 1500 gallons of water and expels 71 pounds of carbon dioxide (Wallander 2012). It is no surprise that governing bodies are being pressured into taking action in order to sustain the planet for our future generations with scientific research suggesting a global temperature rise of 4 degrees by 2100. (UNFCCC, 2016) Research suggests that consumers place the blame on governments in terms of the pollution and negative effects the fashion industry is having on the environment (Foster and Frieden 2017). However, blame can not be solely put on governments when the consumer is purchasing the goods and continuing the fast fashion delivery. It is therefore crucial to further explore consumer motivations throughout this report in order to avoid the risk of unsuccessful or unrealistic environmental policies.

“ Humans have only been around for 200,000 years, a tiny blip in the 4.5 billion years of our planet’s history. Yet we have had a greater impact on the Earth than any other species.” (WWF, 2019)

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2.2.1 Fast Fashion

2.2.2 Factors influencing fast fashion

Fast fashion is often referred to as “McFashion” because of the speed with which gratification is provided. With fast fashion, new styles swiftly supersede the old, thus constantly defining the desires and notions of self. “Multiple selves in evolution” is central to the young generation, which these fast fashion brands are able to satisfy very successfully. Inspiration for fashion goods in the fast fashion industry follows down from luxury brands. Fast fashion companies copy current trends seen on luxury catwalks and in turn create these trends on a mass production with an extremely cheap price (Macchiona et al, 2015), which then become readily available for a wide range of consumers who follow current trends and buy new clothes on a regular basis. Well known companies that can be considered as fast fashion brands include, Missguided, Boohoo, Pretty Little Thing, Zara, H&M and Asos. When comparing fast fashion to the luxury fashion segment one of the main differences consists of seasons. The fast fashion segment has approximately 52 seasons in one year, in comparison to luxury fashion which has four seasons. Therefore, in the fast fashion industry clothes are designed and manufactured at an extremely rapid pace in order to send new collections to stores every week (The True Cost, 2015) as well as providing consumers with fashion styles they are demanding (Barnes & Lea-Greenwood, 2006).

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Sustainable mindsets and initiatives have recently been adopted by a small number of fast fashion brands (Caniato et al, 2017). It has become a necessity for companies to implement sustainable strategies in to their business, especially if it is a company that operates in sensitive areas of business that exploit natural resources intensively or offer conditions of work that are labour intensive, which is often the case within the fast fashion industry (De Brito et al, 2016).

PRICE Price is one of the most important informational cues that consumers use in the decision-making process. (Lichtenstein, Ridgway and Netemeyer, 1993). Fast fashion retailers implement a low-price strategy to promote more easy and frequent adoption of high-fashion items (Dutta, 2002).Whilst the price of clothing continues to fall, between 2012 and 2018 consumption measured in tonnes increased 22.1% within the UK (Wrap, 2019) due to the rise of fast fashion. It appears that consumers’ purchasing habits have evolved. Literature shows that consumers tend to engage in stockpiling or impulse buying when subjective evaluation of a price is relatively lower than their internal reference price or when there are substantial economic gains or financial savings from purchasing the product (Pauwels, Srinivasan, & Franses, 2007). Congruent with this tendency, B yun and Sternquist (2008)found that the more consumers have lower price perceptions for fast fashion products, the greater the level of in-store hoarding.

L I M I T E D S U P P LY A N D PERCEIVED SCARCITY Fast fashion retailers deliberately limit product offerings to ensure a short renewal cycle and make constant room for new merchandise (Dutta, 2002). Consequently, product quantity per style is limited, accelerating perceived scarcity. Along with perceived perishability, perceived scarcity reinforces consumers’ perception that their favorite items will be “gone with the wind,” creating urgency in consumers’ minds and limiting consumers’ freedom to delay a decision. Being aware of the high likelihood of items being out of stock, consumers tend to appreciate the value of the merchandise and purchase the product on the spot, even willingly paying full price. By doing so, consumers try to reduce perceived risk about unavailability of a desired product in the expected time (Tan & Chua, 2004). Byun and Sternquist (2008)found that perceived scarcity is a significant driver of in-store hoarding, encouraging consumers to take immediate possession of a product of interest while shopping whether or not they end up buying it.

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2.2.2 Factors influencing fast fashion S O C I E TA L P R E S S U R E S

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Over recent years, consumers are becoming increasingly demanding and fashion savvy which is encouraging fashion retailers to provide a wide variety of products consecutively in the market. (The Economist, 2015)

Similarly, Campbell’s theory (1992) of consumers ‘desire for new’, a constant need to satisfy an emotional drive for the latest fad. It is this desire which has led to the success of new affordable, online fashion giants.

Evolving lifestyles due to sociocultural factors and a demand for uniqueness is forcing retailers to constantly renew their merchandise and compete with the growing number of companies being introduced to the market providing a similar offering (Sproles and Burns 1994). Lundblad and Davies (2015) stated that “fashion consumption is a need for social acceptance”. Their theory suggests that there are no other reasons for purchasing fashion other than gaining approval from others. Even more so today, with technological innovation and numerous social media platforms predominantly instagram, that allow consumers to gain approval from others through ‘likes and shares’, creating new norms for society. Companies are also using these channels to market their fast fashion brands, with the added use of celebrity endorsements. According to Siegle in 2018, nearly a quarter of 16-24 year olds said they would only be pictured in an item one to three times on social media before discarding it, they feel the need to match the behaviours of the influencers marketing themselves and brands through these channels, who wear something new or attempt to be early adopters of the latest fashions and trends.

From a psychological point of view it is quite normal for individuals to be influenced by society’s set norms and in today’s world, social media and its popular personalities set those limits (Gulati, 2017) Therefore, one could make a conclusion that consumer behavior and consuming patterns is not only something that fast fashion companies have created by offering the products, but it is also the society that sets the pressure on individuals. Consumers have more power in the fashion industry than they might think. (Kerr & Landry, 2017). Diabat and Govindan (2011) and Lee Hunter (2008) stated the importance of external pressure with regards to implementing sustainable practices and suggested that such pressure is increasingly becoming dominant.

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2.3 Mind the gap 2.3.1 W H AT I S T H E G A P ?

2.3.2 WHY DOES THE GAP EXIST?

A A positive attitude towards sustainable products is a staring point to help stimulate sustainable consumption, given that “a favourable attitude is a good predictor of engaging in a specific behaviour” (Mintel, 2008).

The gap between consumer environmental attitudes and their buying habits may be explained by the simple purchasing decisions of price, style and fashion. In order for the industry and consumer buying practices to change; sustainable fashion brands must understand exactly what the gap is and how they can merge the fashion and sustainable world together. Connel and Kozar, 2012 go into more detail by saying ‘fashion companies need to understand what factors affect consumer buying behaviour and find out what they can do to efficiently direct it to more sustainable consumption patterns. It could also be argued that the gap exists due to the internal and external factors that can affect actual purchase decisions. Carrington, Neville, and Whitwell (2010) argued that the extent to which consumers translate their sustainable intentions into buying behaviour depends upon their prior planning (Gollwitzer, 1999), their control over the buying experience (Ajzen & Madden, 1986) and aspects of the buying environment (Belk, 1975) which in turn help extend the overall understanding of the intention behaviour gap.

However, it is clear through varied research that although consumers may have sustainable shopping tendencies, very few of those tendencies translate into actual purchasing behaviour. (Carrington et al, 2010). This research is further enhanced through Morwitz et al, 2007, who conducted empirical studies into the domain on sustainable consumption. One study conducted by Morwitz found that out of 30 consumers who stated that their purchase intention is sustainable, only 3% actually ended up buying sustainable products (Carrington et al, 2010). This gap in purchasing behaviour is further known as the attitude behaviour gap. Multiple studies have provided statistical proof for the existence of the attitude behaviour gap within sustainable fashion consumption.

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2.4 The beginning of the end

Extensive research shows other factors that affect consumer buying behaviour that “disrupt a clear and direct predisposition path between attitude and consumer behaviour” (Connell and Kozer, 2012). Connel and Kozzer further stated that fashion companies are able to gain a better understanding of consumer buying habits once they familiarise themselves with the factors affecting consumer buying behaviours. Once this is understood by brands, they can use these factors to their advantage when creating successful sustainable processes.

2.4.1 P R O - E N V I R O N M E N TA L B E H AV I O U R S Pro-environmental behaviour has often been defined as “behaviour that is undertaken with the intention to change the environment”, however it could be viewed as focusing on the outcome of actions over individuals intentions (Stern, 2000). It is believed that a change in consumer behaviour patterns will significantly reduce the impact on society and the environment (Midden et al, 2015). With the knowledge that consumerism will be the catalyst of an unsustainable future, industries and consumers should work in tandem to put an end to the wasteful and selfish acts causing such worldwide issues. Popular theorists have used their theories to explain proenvironmental behaviour. For example, Stern’s (2002) Value Belief Norm theory and the Theory of Planned Behaviour proposed by Ajzen in 1985 w hich stated that eco buying comes from the set of individual values, ethics and norms (Carrington et al, 2010). Despite consumers holding values of ethical consumerism and claiming to be basing their purchase decisions on environmental concerns, there is little evidence that such attitudes and beliefs actually lead to sustainable consumption. (Carrington et al., 2010; Kim and Choi, 2005). Pro-environmental behaviours can be categorised into two differing groups (1) private-sphere behaviours (purchasing organic goods, energy conservation or recycling) and (2) environmental citizenship behaviours (“signing a petition or being a member of an environmental group”) (Stern, 2000).

Each group differs in their approach to reducing unsustainable practices, with the private sphere members typically acting on beliefs by conserving energy or buying organic products whilst the environmental citizenship members tend to do more work within councils or local governments by signing petitions or leading environmental groups (Stern, 2000). However, both theories look to understand how consumers can have a positive sustainable outlook, yet fail to put theory into practice. The Moral Norm Activations Theory of Altruism, another cognitive theory, has since been developed stating that pro-environmental behaviour can be encouraged by offering consumers more information on a product and the potential harm it has on the environment. The more good the product shows, the likelihood consumers would prefer to use it thereafter. C ontrary to the stated theory, the Internet, being the major information source worldwide, has become the key enabler of fast fashion much more that it increased production and sales of eco fashion. Although influencing pro-environmental change is a challenge which will not disappear, it is clear that individuals are the driver of change. The public must realise the affects their buying habits are having on the environment, which in turn will force companies to change their strategies. However, it is suggested that the more individuals who adopt sustainable behaviour, the better chance political parties will follow (Pongiglione 2014), encouraging an increase in positive environmental change. A PESTLE analysis (appendix 11’) was developed to truly discover the external macro-environmental factors to further understand how businesses and consumers can contribute towards a sustainable future. 1919

2.4.2 The Conscious Consumer Whilst a standard definition of a sustainable consumer is yet to be established, the conscious consumer has been described as ‘a consumer who takes into account the public consequences of his or her private consumption or who attempts to use his or her purchasing power to bring about social change.’ As stated by Cowe and Williams, 2005, “shoppers are highly aware of sustainable issues and many are ready to put their money where their morals are”. This statement is further supported by the 2019 growth in sustainable spending where a 4.2% increase occurred throughout the year, reaching a peak of £86.1 million (Triodos, 2020), suggesting a shift in consumer spending with regards to sustainable shopping practices. There has also been a recent change in consumer attitudes and behaviour with a higher percentage of consumers, 13.5%, not buying certain fashion products due to factors such as human rights, animal welfare and environmental protection (Mintel, 2019). This has resulted in an increase in sustainable shopping practices, in turn reshaping the fashion industry. (Euromonitor, 2019).

“ Every time you spend money, you’re casting a vote for the kind of world you want.” Anna Lappé

Euromonitor International’s Fashion and Luxury consultant states “as consumers particularly Millennial and Gen-Z, are becoming increasingly environmentally conscious and value-orientated, they are seeking out companies that employ sustainable practices and becoming more comfortable wearing sustainable clothing” (Euromonitor International’s Fashion and Luxury consultant, 2019).

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2.5 The use of social media in driving sustainable decisions Social media sites are currently accessed by 4.2b people worldwide via their mobile device (Chung, N, 2015). Social media differs from ordinary media in the sense that it allows for a two way interaction between brands and consumers; compared to traditional media whereby information is broadcasted to the majority with no direction, reaction or response (Kaplan & Haenlein, 2010). Several brands have incorporated social media as an outlet for their external and internal corporate communications regarding sustainability (DeMers, 2017). Consumers are progressively becoming more cynical towards transparency, trust and authenticity (Bulbshare, 2018), therefore the presence of social media within brands could help aid this consumer-brand relationships to help gain the absence of trust and transparency, required by consumers. Social media is rapidly becoming an attractive way to facilitate conversation towards sustainability and assist brands who have a strong focus on the younger generations such as the Gen Z generation, whom have “grown up with the ability to broadcast their voices and opinions to thousands of social media followers” (Bulbshare, 2019). By intertwining sustainably positive

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social media into a brand it can help the younger consumers to see for themselves the importance of sustainability and help influence them to “spend more money on goods from sustainable companies” (Greenmatch, 2018). However, trust washing may become increasingly apparent through the use of social media. Trust washing is a marketing ploy whereby the sustainability of products is over exaggerated to try and divert attention away from negative labour practices or poor material usage, “The sustainable version of a white lie” (Grey et al, 2000). Therefore, it is shown throughout research how social media can have both negative and positive impacts in facilitating sustainable product purchasing and it is up to the brand to portray either a real impact or a fake impact of themselves through social media.

2.6 Total Transparency 2.6.1 W H Y T R A N S PA R E N C Y M AT T E R S I N T H E FA S H I O N I N D U S T RY ? The fashion industry is a complex business which consists of many variants in the supply chains. The variations include steps such as production, design, shipping, retail, the use of the item and all the way to the disposal of the item. Consumerism is becoming a defining characteristic of modern societies (Kramer, 2016). As a result of this, retail, the fundamental part of the supply chain, is facing significant changes in consumption. Sustainable thinking has changed the way consumers approach their purchasing habits, they are demanding transparency, therefore retail must ensure it keeps up to remain relevant. However, as discussed by Elkington (2016), shopping is increasingly becoming a leisure activity done out of luxury rather than out of necessity. Consumerism has become an activity due to the accessibility and ease of shopping online, therefore this is in direct conflict with sustainability. Consumers have become more aware of the issues surrounding sustainability and therefore demanding that brands proactively offer more. Consequently, brands must ensure that they are appealing to the consumers needs and ticking all the right boxes otherwise consumers will allocate their spends elsewhere.

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2.6.2 Rana Plaza collapse A nine-story garment factory in Sabhar collapsed in April, 2013, resulting in over 1000 workers loosing their lives and leaving more than 2000 workers injured. the collapse of the Rana Plaza is one of the deadliest accidents in the history of the global garment industry. Soon after the tragic collapse happened it became extremely apparent that the fashion industry needed an urgent transformative change and the first vital step towards this change required greater visibility and transparency of the people working in fashion supply chains. Since the Rana Plaza collapse happened, some positive progress has been made, due to all the attention and negative press received. Many factories have been upgraded and there has been an improvement in working conditions. However, on the other hand, it is clear to see that not enough has been done and fashion business practices still appear extremely secretive and untrustworthy. Therefore, in order to gain the trust of consumers, brands will need to ensure that they “shift their emphasis from ‘touch points to trust points’ when carving out their sustainable strategies, as truth becomes the new currency” (Underscore, 2018).

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2.7 Research Gap Analysis Throughout the literature review, several research gaps and opportunities for further exploration have been identified where appropriate. The majority of literature in this topic area refers to why the attitude gap may exist, giving various reasons. However, unfortunately it fails to acknowledge or explore in detail if the attitude gap could be narrowed if fast fashion brands demonstrated a greater amount of brand transparency, providing consumers with more information through the shopping process. It also became apparent that available literature discussed ethical consumption focused on brands intentions rather than the motivations for sustainable purchasing of the end user; the consumer. Generational differences were also not taken into account throughout various literature, in many cases the Gen Z and Millennial generations were seen as having the same shopping needs, desires and motivations. Therefore, the aim of the methodology chapter and research design is to investigate the motivations of consumers and discovering the attitudes of brands and looking into the intention behaviour gap from a consumers point of view.

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Methodology 3.1 Methodological structure A mixed methods approach was used throughout the report. The approach is defined as a way to research the social, behavioural and health sciences, which ties in with the research agenda. Quantitative (close-ended) and qualitative (open-ended) data was gathered and integrated throughout the report. Both methods provide combined strengths, helping to understand the research problem (Creswell, 2015). Using various methods enabled the report to expand it’s research scope and develop a deeper understanding of the trend ‘sustainability’. The use of triangulation (Fig.1), discussed by Watkins and Gioia, (2015), enabled limitations to be compared from different perspectives. Whilst the mono research method is still valuable, the report was able to use “combined quantitative and qualitative methods enable exploring more complex aspects of the human and social world (Malina et al, 2011).” Whilst the mixed methods is set in high regard (Bryman, 2006), limitations can occur such as the use of extended resources and time constraints, lack of understanding of given information and incorrectly analysing literature (O, Byrne, 2009).

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To create a platform for critical analysis, both primary and secondary research methods were used. This enabled the study to assess current literature as well as first hand market information. The two methods can differ significantly however the two of them combined can help assist current research gaps. Additionally, each research method used corresponds closely with the objectives previously laid out, which allowed the study to remain focused.

3.2 SAMPLE GROUP

3.3 S E C O N DA RY R E S E A R C H

The secondary research findings suggested that Gen Z and Millennials were the most influential generations within the category with much dispute between findings over who has the most impact on society. As a result, the primary research will cross both generations with a focus on what is being deemed the ‘pivotal’ generation - this will include ages ranging between 18-30. There is much debate around the age ranges of the Gen Z and Millennial generations. The ages of the two generations used were defined as Gen Z ages 7-22 and the Millennials ages 23-38. (Pew Research, 2019). This age selection was used to ensure the results are more applicable to the research topic as it may be argued that older groups are not as relevant to movements surrounding sustainability. The younger end of the spectrum are just coming of age to spend money on what they desire, and therefore giving an honest reflection on their moral buying habits.

A collection of secondary sources were analysed in order to conduct a thorough literature review which allowed for information already available on the topic of ‘Sustainability’ to be understood and key themes to be highlighted for further research. The sources included books, journals and trend reports which allowed for understanding on a range of statistics, studies and debates regarding the subject matter, which helped reduce bias within the sources as both sides of debates were considered. Reviewing secondary sources helped access large-scale investigations which primary research would not have been able to access, due to time and cost restraints. One limitation of the use of journals and books is that the validity, location and credibility of these sources can not always be guaranteed (Saunders, Lewis and Thornhill, 2009).

Furthermore, the research will focus predominantly on females, as the majority of fast fashion brands only cater to women so this gives a more accurate representation of vast fast fashion buyers. (Zarley and Yan, 2016). The reason this sample may be deemed as controversial is due to the research being female focused. Participants were additionally selected through multiple methods, including online forums, emailing and social media.

Additional secondary sources such as podcasts, Ted Talks, documentaries, blogs and social media allowed for a macro perspective of the topic. Using these secondary sources, allows for a newer understanding of new mind-sets and more culturally relevant considerations. However, limitations may include high levels of bias and a lack of supporting data. Therefore both types of secondary sources are relevant and become even stronger once combined together (Kiecolt, 1996).

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3.4 Primary Research 3.4.1 O N L I N E S U RV E Y

3.4.2 I N D U S T RY I N T E RV I E WS

3.4.3 FOCUS GROUP

3.4.4 D I A RY LO G

The first primary research method chosen was an online questionnaire. An online survey was conducted to determine an individual’s current views on environmental issues and brands, explore their behaviours and identify their willingness/reluctance to change. This method aimed to bridge some gaps that the secondary research highlighted with qualitative research that is up to date and relevant to both fashion and sustainability.

Three industry professionals operating within the sustainable market were contacted in the hope of attaining rich market insights and gaining a deeper understanding of how brands are adapting to meet the needs of the ethically conscious consumer. These professionals were targeted due to being the founders of small and recent start-up brands offering unique products in a growing market. The industry professionals included the Managing Director of Capri Sunglasses, the marketing manager of the Skin Academy and finally the Managing Director of Ocean Refresh. All industry interviews were carried out over email, which can be argued to be limiting as questions were open to interpretation and did not allow for further probing based on answers given as well as there being an inability to analyse emotions, facial expressions and reactions (Tracy, 2011). However, this method was also recognised as the most efficient way to interview industry professionals due to time and cost obstacles on both sides, whilst still having the ability to be advantageous in providing key perspectives.

Focus Groups allowed expansion on topics touched upon in the questionnaire, with discussion involving the presence of multiple participants enabling a breadth of points of view to emerge; “A dynamic group can generate or respond to a number of ideas and evaluate them, thus helping you to explain or explore concepts. You are also likely to benefit from the opportunity that this method provides in terms of allowing your participants to consider the points raised by other group members and to challenge one another’s views”(Saunders, Lewis and Thornhill, 2009, p.346).

A diary study was another useful method used to collect qualitative data about behaviour, activities and experiences over the duration of the month of December. The data was self-reported by participants longitudinally. Four participants were asked to keep a diary every time they went into a fast fashion store or went shopping online. Participants were provided with an emoji chart to help express their feelings throughout their shopping experiences and to complete a write up task after each experience.

However. focus groups are also limited in that there is the possibility of participants dominating conversation and inhibiting others, this may negatively affect results, as ideas may be agreed with publicly, but privately disagreed with, therefore giving inaccurate data (Stokes and Bergin, 2006). To avoid this situation, care was taken in grouping individuals as well as in controlling group discussion for equal input.

One of the greatest advantages of the diary approach is that it yields information which is temporally ordered, it tells you the sequence of events, giving you the profile of action, feelings or thoughts across time (Wright, 2012). This makes the diary method a valuable tool when formally exploring an area of psychological processes. However, the diary approach may have the issue of truthfulness; getting the participants to tell the truth may be difficult. Moreover, you may never be able to ascertain whether they did or not (Breakwell, 2012) Therefore, other methods alongside the diary approach were used.

This method was selected because online questionnaires provide one of the most efficient ways of collecting responses from a large sample group (Saunders, Lewis and Thornhill, 2009, p.361) and so was used to gain a broad collation of viewpoints and specifically uncover attitudes. By using this method it also allowed for quantifiable data which can be used to examine relationships between variables, such as age identity and ‘go to’ shopping destinations for thorough analysis of phenomena (Saunders, Lewis and Thornhill, 2009, p.362). This method, however, is imperfect in that it does not allow for much further explanation or reasoning behind answers therefore insights are not easily gained by using this method alone, therefore this method has been linked to qualitative approaches to understand attitudes rather than just relying on statistics alone.

Two focus groups were undertaken within the 18-28 sample and comprised four females in each focus group. The first focus group focused on the Gen Z generation with participants ages ranging from 18-22, and the second focus group focused on the Millennial generation with participants ages ranging from 22-28.

The questionnaire ultimately gained 120 responses, across the 18-22 age range. This high response rate increases confidence in the data collected, and will allow for understanding about attitudes and behaviours. 28 28

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3.5 Limitations Specific limitations have been considered under the premise of each method. Generalised limitations still exist in the fact that it is not able to guarantee honesty or the way in which participants complete the research, particularly in the online questionnaire where a moderator can not be present. Despite this, the triangulation approach ensures higher levels of reliability and validity and so results will not rely on one data collection method alone.

R E C O M M E N DAT I O N S F O R FURTHER RESEARCH As many fast fashion brands are starting to cater for both genders, future studies may investigate male shoppers’ attitudes and behaviours to see if there is any significant difference by gender.

Discussion 4.1

Following on from the literature review and the methodology, primary research results will be explored and analysed with the use of secondary research to discuss any similarities or contradictions found throughout.

4.2 AT T I T U D E S A N D B E L I E F S Attitudes are defined as “an overall evaluation of an object based on cognitive, affective and behavioural information” (Maio and Haddock, 2009). It is argued that if a individual is exposed repeatedly to a certain stimulus, this could aid a positive attitude towards sustainable goods in the future (Clayton, 2014). The active growth of consumers environmental concerns have been evidenced through various sources, alongside the efforts to try and secure environmental protection across the globe. In order to drive sustainable consumption in the future, it is essential to understand individual attitudes towards sustainable practices and environmental security. Primary research supported this claim whereby 69.2% of survey respondents believed “they are aware of environmental concerns and are strongly willing to take action” in contrast to the 25% who believed “they are aware of environmental concerns but am not greatly concerned”.

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This is also something that repeatedly came up within the focus group one discussions, “I do really care about how the fashion world affects the environment. I just can’t get over how it is the second biggest industry polluter.” This however signals a lack of understanding and education on the matter. Survey Respondents were further asked to state their two greatest environmental concerns and 72.5% of the sample claimed climate change to be one of their main concerns followed by plastic pollution (58.3%) then by worker exploitation (60.8%). In comparison to water scarcity (23.3%) and endangered species (30.8%). Supporting the view of Clayton (2012), that climate change and plastic pollution had received significant media interest in the recent year which is likely to have familiarised the respondents with the issue and therefore played a role in achieving the heightened concern. Furthermore, researchers suggest over-consumption to be the driving force for the current environmental crisis, however, more than twice as many respondents were more concerned by exploited labour (60.8%) than over-consumption (15%). (Blumstein and Saylan, 2007). 31 31

4.2.1 Generational Divides

4.2 AT T I T U D E S A N D B E L I E F S

G E N Z VS M I L L E N N I A L S

72.5%

91.7%

60.8%

58.3%

The literature review revealed an abundance of data which compared and contrasted which generational cohort had a more impactful effect on today’s world. According to Smola and Sutton (2002), Millennials desire more balance, freedom and leisure than Gen Z’s when shopping. These comments are in line with results gained from the focus group. When Gen Z’s were presented with the question ‘what would encourage or motivate you to purchase ethically?’ these were some of the answers given;

OF RESPONDENTS THINK FAST-FASHION BRANDS HAVE A RESPONSIBILITY TO SUPPORT A SUSTAINABLE FASHION FUTURE

CARE ABOUT CLIMATE CHANGE

30.8%

CARE ABOUT ECOSYSTEMS & ENDANGERED SPECIES

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CARE ABOUT WORKER EXPLOITATION

23.3% CARE ABOUT WATER SCARCITY & WATER POLLUTION

CARE ABOUT PLASTIC POLLUTION

15% CARE ABOUT OVERCONSUMPTION

“more information and an extra emphasis on which brands are sustainable/environmentally positive would make it easier to make ethically conscious decisions in the future. The issue is how much time it can take to find out how sustainable unsustainable a brand is.”

Products over exaggerate their environmental social practices in order to make themselves look more sustainable(Vogel, 2015) Comparing this to the millennial

“I’m not actually sure what would motivate me to purchase ethically, I feel like maybe if I liked the item and it just happened to be sustainable I would just buy it.”

answers given;

(Participant D, 2019)

(Focus Group 2 Participant F, 2019)

Participant C stated a similar point of view; “I

Participant H and F provided feedback which again showed generational differences.

agree, definitely more information on how the brands are acting ethically and sustainably but also transparency of the brand to make sure they are not just saying it as a marketing tool. There are so many brands that are saying they are using organic cotton or recyclable packing just as a marketing tool and they are not even doing it,” in line with secondary research.

“When I am in store shopping I never really think about sustainable practices, I usually go in for a browse and come out with what I liked or needed. However, when I have more time and can browse at my own leisure, I often research online the sustainable practices of the brand I am shopping with at that time.” 33 33

4.2.1 Generational Divides This broadens research showing Millennials require a higher amount of freedom than the Gen Z generation. This view of freedom and balance may also be enhanced through primary research when the managing director of Ocean Refresh

“So Millennials and Gen Z are definitely the age groups that are more proactive about becoming more sustainable shoppers however we have had more flip flops purchased from the millennial age range. In my opinion, I think this is due to the fact that Gen Z’s may still rely on their parents or guardians to purchase their clothing and accessories for them.”

stated that;

Therefore Smola and Sutton’s argument is further elevated by primary research that Millennials specifically value more freedom to their fashion shopping experience than the Gen Z generation. However, we cannot generalise cohorts based on research, but we are able to find out indicative details about buying habits and how they may differ between generations. When asked to explain which ethical aspects are considered before purchasing an item of clothing a stark contrast became apparent across the two generations. Factors such as exploited labour, human rights and materials used were considered by the Gen Z audience during decision-making. Participant C, 2019 felt very strongly towards this by stating;

“the most important factor is regarding who has made the piece of clothing. I don’t want anybody making anything I wear that is being exploited and not being treated fairly.” 34 34

This is supported by Cooney (2011) as he suggested that human rights are more valued than environmental concerns. In contrast to the millennial generation, who typically stated that no ethical regards were taken into consideration prior to purchase and that their decision was solely influenced by design or price of the garment.

“The most important factor is who has made the piece of clothing. I don’t want anybody making anything I wear that has been exploited and not been treated fairly.”

Participant H, 2019 stated

Michael Dimock discusses that generations are a lens through which to understand societal change, rather than a label with which to oversimplify differences between groups. Participant H’s response is indicative of Michael Dimocks (2016) understanding. Secondary research suggested that both Gen Z and Millennials have the same impact on helping to fix the issue regarding sustainability. However throughout primary research in focus groups, it seemed to be that Gen Z’s were more fixated on sustainable shopping behavioursthan Millennials.

“ The most important factor is who has made the piece of clothing. I don’t want anybody making anything I wear that has been exploited and not been treated fairly.”

The differences between each cohort poses a difficult task on the fashion industry. From primary and secondary research we have established generational buying habits and differences. Gen Z are more sustainably conscious than their prior cohort, Millennials. The fashion industry has to be able to market sustainable products in a way which attracts both cohorts, in doing this, they can carry on developing fashionable clothing while also satisfying the sustainable elements - most important to the Gen Z cohort. 35 35

4.2.2 Price and ethical decision making Throughout primary research, pricing has been identified as one of the main restraints in purchasing sustainable fashion. Within the traditional business model and marketing, it states that “sustainable fashion is a highly priced and luxurious alternative to conventional apparel” (Henninger et al, 2016), therefore this perception is carried through to today’s marketing tools. The increase in price for sustainable fashion is justified by brands. By sourcing sustainable or organic raw materials and providing workers with suitable and safe working conditions with an increased wage comes at a premium cost for brands. Many companies agree upon the fact that sustainable materials used in production in order to create sustainable fashion are decisive in determining the prices of the final product (Peattle and Crane, 2005). This view is in line with a primary research finding found in an industry interview conducted with the Marketing Manager of Skin Academy, Holly Wagman;

“Yes. Sustainable products are definitely more expensive. Brands have no choice- their sourcing, packing and formulations cost more with sustainable and natural ingredients/materials. Consumers do need to be aware that these brands do not have as much ‘wriggle room’ when it comes to pricing sustainable products. It definitely costs more to make, therefore it is sold at a slightly higher price. Price is definitely affecting consumer choice, but hopefully over time these consumers will see it is worth their money.” 36 36

Avi Libbert, director of Capri sunglasses stated that;

“I don’t believe sustainable products fall into the affordable price range at this moment in time. For example whilst conducting my research i couldn’t find sustainable sunglasses for less than £30 anywhere, including the US. It is difficult to sell to the younger market who don’t always have that amount of disposable cash.” This is further demonstrated by responses throughout the Gen Z focus group

“A lowered price would definitely encourage me [to shop sustainably]” (Participant D, 2019)

There is also a need to justify the added price, if consumers are to shift their perspectives of price (Hendricks, 2017). This was further communicated through diary studies where participant 2 stated; “I saw a really nice jumper in the H&M conscious section and there was the same jumper in the normal section and the conscious collection jumper was £8 more and it was identical. How can brands who are preaching about sustainability, make an identical jumper which is the same as the normal one and expect people to pay £8 more for the same item.” Sustainable fashion brands or lines can add price premiums to their products as long as there is a justifiable reason for consumers to spend the extra. (Miller and Merrilees, 2013).

Even though customers perceive sustainable apparel options as expensive and luxurious (Henninger et al. 2016), they are generally willing to pay a price premium for such products (Peattie and Crane, 2005). Up to 45.8% of consumers in the online survey illustrated that they are willing to spend up to 10% more on a sustainable item of clothing with 30.8% even stating that they are willing to spend up to 20% of the original product price for the item to be sustainable. This is in line with Chan and Wong’s view which states that the premium of 10% is assumed to have no effect on purchase decision, while 25-30% premium over the orginal fashion price will discourage consumers from buying sustainable fashion items (Chan and Wong, 2012).

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4.3 Motivations Through understanding a person’s motivations and values, greater insight can be gained into why individuals behave as they do (Solomon et al., 1999). Clothing consumption decisions are complex according to Niinimaki, (2010) and decisions are mainly based on the need to fit in and to be trendy. The purchase motivations of consumers can vary, however there is evidence to suggest that a decision is based on fitting in, as mentioned by Participant A in primary research.

“ I feel like I need to fit in with my friendship group and follow their style.” The Jägel et al. ( 2012 ) study is one example of motivation - driven research into sustainable fashion. They report surprisingly low incidences of self - identity, product quality and style as motivators for consumption. This has been supported by primary research when participants were asked what would be their main motivators for purchasing sustainable clothing;

“If it was cheaper.” “ If the brand was more transparent as well as having a bigger sustainable line.” “ Better for the planet, fair wages and good working conditions.” “If brands actually meant what they say they do.”

4.3.1 Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs This is further supported through industry professionals;

“It was of utmost importance to us to offer our consumers the opportunity to purchase natural skincare at an affordable price whilst still protecting their environment.” (Holly Wagman, Marketing Manager of Skin Academy)

However, insights from industry professionals goes against the popular view that consumers purchase fashion in order for social standing and “to gain acceptance from others” (Gabriel and Lang, 1995), and stick with the view that consumers make sustainable purchase decisions based on factors such as transparency, availability of lines and price (Online Survey, 2019, Appendix 2). Human motivation plays a large role in the local and global rise of profound environmental issues; it is believed that a change in modern behaviour patterns will considerably reduce the overall impact on the environment (Midden et al., 2009).

Abraham Maslow proposed the widely accepted and commonly cited motivational theory, ‘Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs’ in 1954. From the bottom of the hierarchy upwards, the needs consist of; physiological, safety and security, love and belonging, esteem and self-actualisation. In order for an individual to reach self-actualisation, all tiers must be fulfilled and as each need is attained in each tier, motivation increases (Lester, 2013). Self-actualisation refers to “the desire for self-fulfilment, namely, to the tendency for him [or her] to be actualised in what he [she] is potentially” (Maslow, 2017).

Self Actulization (the need for development, creativity)

Ego (the need for self-esteem, power, recognition, prestige)

Social (the need for being loved, belonging, inclusion)

Security (the need for safety, shelter, stability)

Physical (the need for air, water, food, rest, health) (Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs, 2013)

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4.3.1 Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs A recent 2018 European report (www.fao.org) indicates that with the increase of personal incomes, individuals tend to spend a higher proportion of their income on activities that are placed higher in Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs, and less on satisfying their basic needs. Therefore the primary research findings that consumers are more willing to purchase sustainable fashion is in line with the 2018 European report (Appendix 2, Question 12). However, Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs is criticised for being culturally limited, it fails to acknowledge individual differences as well as seen as too simplistic as to whether needs can be obtained when deviating from the proposed structure (Solomon et al, 2009). Maslow’s Hierarchy leads to explain the different incentives consumers can have when purchasing products. Behind every decision is a person who stands for morals and ethics within sustainability. Maslow’s Hierarchy was enhanced with the additions of cognitive, aesthetic and transcendence needs. It has been discussed that self transcendence is the awareness and connection with others and the world. According to Stern (2000) self-transcendent values are more likely to engage in sustainable behaviour, furthermore they show higher concern about environmental risks such as climate change, pollution and would be more willing to perform acts of sustainability. (Slimak & Dietz, 2006)

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A common term called Universalism covers the understanding and care of nature and people with an emphasis on protecting the environment. Primary research can be used to help categorise consumers within Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs. Numerous responses from Question 11 (Appendix 2) show that respondents possess self transcendent values. They care about unsustainable industry behaviour, to the point where it affects their purchasing habits.

4.3.2 N E E D S VS WA N T S A need is defined as “a perceived lack of something” in comparison to wants which are “specific satisfiers for a need” (Blythe, 2013). Needs and wants provide a crucial role in driving motivation and behaviour. Wants and needs are extremely powerful throughout the consumers’ shopping experience. An individual’s purchasing decision is based around “satisfying ones needs and wants” (Blythe, 2013). Therefore sustainable marketing within fashion, needs to ensure that it is addressing both, in order to keep consumers happy as well as helping the environment. It was found throughout primary research that participants are wanting to shop sustainably however there are barriers in front of their needs.

“It is important to me, however, it’s really difficult shopping on a budget due to me being a student in an expensive city, not living at home and right now I feel like all sustainable fashion is expensive. I feel like brands like Patagonia who’s ideology I believe in is just so expensive for me right now.”

reducing risks for other members in society through buying products that have not exploited workers and are supporting communities. Yet, consumers feel like current sustainable products in the fashion market are not satisfying their needs.

“The sustainable ranges are not very trend driven compared to the normal ranges that I would normally shop from.” (Focus Group 1, Participant C, 2019) Therefore by purchasing clothing from the normal ranges consumers are satisfying their needs of following trends rather than pursuing their wants of shopping sustainably due to a lack of trend driven sustainable fashion. Multiple research studies have identified a lack of availability as one of the main constraints to buying sustainable fashion. Online survey results explained product availability to be a barrier to ethical consumerism with 56.9% stating a ‘diverse range of ethical products’ would encourage them to want to purchase ethically in addition to numerous responses stating similar;

“If there were more sustainable products on the market.” (Focus Group 1, Participant C, 2019)

(Focus Group 1, Participant A, 2019)

“Availability of more sustainable brands.”

This is showing how consumers are wanting to purchase sustainable items however due to high prices and low availability, are not able to.

(Google Survey, 2019)

Consumers want to help the environment and buy sustainably as they are motivated by the knowledge that they are

Therefore research suggests that often the consumers have sustainable intentions yet the industry does not provide the relevant opportunities. Consumers and the industry would both benefit from sustainable, trendy and affordable clothing as consumers would not be forfeiting anything to shop sustainably. Until this happens, there will be a gap between Maslow’s ‘needs’ and ‘wants’ and consumers will continue to purchase what feels right for them. 41 41

4.3.3 AC T UA L B E H AV I O U R S VS I N T E N D E D B E H AV I O U R S Whilst the adoption of pro-environmental attitudes plays a central role in institutionalising sustainable behaviour, primary research illustrated consumers acknowledged ‘sustainable attitudes’ to regularly deviate from their actual behaviours. This is further supported by a study conducted by Worcester and Dawkins (2007) which found 53% of the British public to be concerned about environmental and social issues but did not participate in ethical behaviour.

4.4 TRUST Participant ‘I’s response therefore suggests that whilst sustainable clothing is admired other factors are typically prioritised which is further supported by participant C who explained that they do not always trust what the brand is saying. This finding is widely acknowledged by many researchers as reviewed in the literature review.

Although trust was not explicitly identified throughout the literature review as one of the main reasons as to why the attitude behaviour gap exists, the word ‘trust’ appeared as a common theme throughout primary research with all participants of the focus group stating that they do not currently trust any of the brands that they shop with.

What are some of the reasons stopping you from purchasing sustainable items of clothing?

Participant ‘I’ acknowledged the discrepancy in the focus group stating:

“I hate the thought of sweatshops and exploited labour but I admit it does not always translate to all my choices, it is mainly the price i am lead by when purchasing clothes.”

33.3%

36.7%

(Participant I, 2019)

“I try to buy ethically and sustainably however, sometimes when I am shopping i just don’t always trust what brands are labelling their ‘sustainable’ range as is actually true. Therefore i just sometimes go with the regular ranges as it is probably all from the same sweatshop but maybe just an extremely small difference.”

PRICE

AVAILABILITY OF SUSTAINABLE LINES

56.7%

TRUSTING THE BRAND IN WHAT THEY SAY

NOT INTERESTED IN SUSTAINABLE CLOTHING

(Participant C, 2019).

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“I definitely do not trust the brands I shop with, especially the online fast fashion brands. I feel like they don’t realise us as consumers want that feeling of trust whilst shopping.” (Focus Group 1, Participant A, 2019)

“I don’t feel like I do trust the brands that I purchase with. I feel like brands don’tactually recognise that we want trust from them and that they just see themselvesas something that people just buy what they want or need from.” (Focus Group 2, Participant E, 2019) These views are in line with Beard, 2008 as he states that consumers are increasingly seeking for authenticity in products, meaning that the ability to prove environmental credentials and satisfy the expectations of consumers in the fashion area is crucial. Participants of the survey portrayed a very low level of trust in the sustainability claims brands make (56.7%). They are mainly viewed as a means to maintain brand image and to mitigate negative news regarding the unsustainable practices they pursue. The lack of trust and inability to support the sustainability claims, may serve as a major barrier from brands in promoting pro environmental behaviour amongst consumers.

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4.5 Overcoming the Attitude Behaviour Gap One stitch at a time Online survey results, focus group conclusions and diary reponses explain many barriers to sustainable consumerism. A few of the main barriers included transparency, trusting what brands are saying and price. Human actions are often a common way for an individual to think that one person is not able to make a huge difference with their actions. As a result of this, consumers are reluctant to choose sustainably produced products (Confino, 2012). This is further supported through primary research when it was stated by Participant D, Focus Group 1, 2019:

“I once picked up a sustainable item, and it was slightly more expensive than normal, I got to the checkout and I thought to myself I won’t make any difference by buying these and I put it down.” “I wish I could see the difference I was making when buying sustainable fashion, instead of just putting my money into a card machine.” This reinforces Confino’s view and may be one of the reasons why the attitude behaviour gap may exist from the consumer’s point of view. Due to the complexity of the thinking model, it is difficult to execute that an individuals actions or buying behaviours can not prevent environmental and social issues. To enhance 44 44

sustainability within the fast fashion industry, highlighting the importance of consumers realising that their actions have consequences is vital, coupled with the realisation that every individual has an opportunity to make a change (Confino, 2011). Conducting ethnographic research further emphasised the need to reduce or ‘fix’ the attitude behaviour gap whereby self-serving motivators evidently overruled ethical considerations.

“ I wish I could see the difference I was making.”

Descriptions throughout shopping experiences illustrated that price, style and comfort were key drivers for their purchasing behaviour. For example participant 2, stated

“I picked up a conscious collection jumper in H&M and then picked up another jumper in the regular section, but the conscious collection jumper was £8 more expensive and there was nothing to persuade me to buy the conscious collection jumper.” Therefore, you are able to formulate an idea that consumers just do not know how to perform sustainably. They feel stuck in a market which is environmentally dangerous, and where sustainable choices are either too expensive or there is little confidence that small purchases make a difference. As discussed throughout the report, to create a sustainable industry, it has to come from both stakeholders in the market. Fashion companies need to promote more sustainable methods throughout their processes, and consumers need to be able to trust large brands in their approach to sustainability. Once the processes are put together, the two can unite and push forward to create a sustainable future. 45 45

4.5.1 Social Media as an Affecting Factor of Sustainable Consumption The use of social media within shopping behaviours was notably evident when uncovering behaviours within the diary studies and the comments that followed. One of the participants revealed that one of the reasons they were going shopping in the first place is due to the reason being that they saw an item on a blogger whilst scrolling through social media that morning which persuaded her to go shopping (Appendix 5, Participant 1). This is supported by Gulati’s (2017) view that it is common for individuals to be influenced by society’s set norms and in today’s world where social media influencers set the shopping trends. Throughout the literature review it was revealed that social media can have both a positive and negative impact on sustainability within the fast fashion industry. This was reiterated by individuals in focus group 1 with Gen Z participants; “I feel like social media can work both ways, if a brand is trying to promote their sustainable range or sustainable products then social media is probably the strongest way to do this. However, all these fashion brands and bloggers aren’t exactly showing the best way to try and support sustainable fashion.” (Focus Group 1, Participant A, 2019)

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This follows on to discoveries within focus group 2;

“I feel like social media is not helping sustainable shopping at all, when I scroll through my Instagram feed all it is is fashion bloggers that I follow posting hauls on their new clothes. Some bloggers can post this up to four times a week, others twice a week. How can this be portraying a good sustainable image, constantly always buying new clothes from fast fashion brands.” “Social media is almost inescapable.” It was also argued by participant G that social media may have a positive impact on consumers sustainable shopping practices;

“Social media plays a huge importance on sustainable shopping. If sustainable fashion was showcased more on social media then I think people would be made more aware of it.” (Focus Group 2, Participant G, 2019) It was noted throughout the literature review that the millennial generation are not as ‘tech-savvy’ as the Gen Z generation, however it still became apparent that social media played a substantial part in their fashion shopping experience. Social media has enabled the fast fashion industry to grow at the pace it has. Due to its popularity, it’s likely that social media is here to stay, therefore it is up to consumers to be responsible and use social media in a sustainable manner.

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4.5.2 Brand Transparency The need for total transparency from brands was recognised across primary research and secondary sources. Brand transparency seems to be a leading factor in decision making for consumers when it comes to sustainably produced product purchasing. This statement was further enhanced when it was found that 88% of participants in the survey stated that they would be more likely to purchase from a fast fashion brand if they were completely transparent in their ways. It is important for a brand to create an emotional bond between the consumer and the product. Research suggests that “consumers are more likely to purchase clothing if they feel an emotional bond with the item itself” (Richard Spykes, 2018). Therefore if brands provide the transparent information consumers are looking for, this would create en emotional bond, in turn creating a positive effect on purchasing sustainable fashion. Even though there is no direct health benefit of wearing sustainable clothing, producers can identify such aspects as comfort, skin safety, ease of care apart from direct benefits to the environment that the item creates (Niinimäki, 2010). This was further illustrated through primary research when one participant noted in the diary study they felt frustrated in their shopping experience when they found out Pretty Little Thing were using materials in their clothing that could potentially damage your organs inside.

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Throughout industry interviews, each professional believed that a higher level of brand transparency would translate in to sustainable sales and that consumers would feel a higher level of responsibility if they could see the impact of their purchases.

“Brand transparency is a huge topic! I really do believe that if you design and market your brand in the most honest, genuine and transparent way you will get more out of it. Consumers are becoming more aware of the benefits and impacts of certain ingredients on the skin. Rather than concentrating on price, consumers are now going to stores and actively looking on the back of packs, on INCI lists and marketing claims to see exactly what the product does, what it contains and how long it takes to become effective. We as brands, cannot play the consumer, we must be open and honest and how we would want to shop. If consumers can’t automatically see the function and ingredients, they will put the product down and choose an alternative.” Holly Wagman, Marketing Manager of Skin Academy.

“Transparency is key! Consumers want to make sure what they are buying is truly sustainable and it is our responsibility to ensure we inform them. I think brands need to improve transparency of the manufacturing process for both ethical and sustainable production.” Avi Libbert, Managing Director of Capri Sunglasses

“It’s the only way! Customers are now looking to make sustainable purchases and will only look for businesses that have complete transparency.” Sami Rose, Managing Director of Ocean Refresh Referring back to the literature review where Shwartz’s theory of the Moral Norm Activations Theory of Altruism was discussed, the primary research results work in tandem with Schwatz’s view stating that pro-environmental behaviour can be encouraged by offering consumers more information on a product and the potential harm it has on the environment. A case study focused on Ocean Refresh broadened the discussion on brand transparency and how this is an up and coming future trend for fast fashion brands.

Therefore it is clear that brands need to ensure they are educating their consumers on the benefits of buying sustainable fashion by portraying a higher level of transparency within their processes.

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4.6 It’s Nothing New T H E F O O D I N D U S T RY Food labelling and ingredient transparency have been a hot topic for years. “An organisation must be able to prove through documentation that it is producing in the way it claims to be, which may be in line with production standards imposed by its customers, thegovernment or international regulations.” (Food Standards Agency, 2019)

Food companies are responsible for delivering transparency, by using information systems, working according to quality and safety standards and having the right arrangements with their supply chain partners. Consumers have changed over the last few decades regarding transparency within the food they buy. They have become more critical and each has their own unique set of specific demands and wishes regarding production and distribution of food products (Beers, G, 2008). Companies need to comply with differentiating demands from consumers as well as legislative demands.

The fashion industry should use the food industry as a prime example of how brand transparency has a vital part to play in influencing consumers to buy sustainable products. When incidents occur companies are required and want to be able to quickly recall products from markets or links downstream the supply chain to limit the incident and minimise costs. This can be linked back to the literature review with the explanation of the Rana Plaza collapse, emphasising the importance of brand transparency within the fast fashion industry.

The transparency of the food industry further became apparent within the Gen Z focus group when participant A stated;

“Transparency is super important within the food industry, you can trace back food right back to the farm it was grown in. It should also be extremely important in the fashion industry.” 50 50

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4.7 Case study: Ocean Refresh Following on from an industry interview conducted with the managing director of Ocean Refresh it became apparent that the rise of ethical consumption translated into a significant shift in brand behaviour, particularly this new brand operating in the fast fashion industry. Sami Rose, Managing Director of Ocean Refresh stated

“in 2019, my eyes were fully opened to the amount of destruction and devastation we are causing our planet by dumping toxic, nonbiodegradable materials into our oceans. If we do not clean up our act now and stop the continuous pollution now, we are facing the possible extinction of so many incredible species and the disruption of the entire ecosystem.” “Ocean Refresh arose from my love for the sea and my desire to be part of the solution to this growing yet preventable problem. I have a little boy called Leo and I want him to be able to enjoy the sea as much as i did by creating wonderful memories for years to come.” The plastic collected from the local beaches is then recycled and manufactured into the raw materials used to create ethical sandals, in a small workshop local to the area. Currently, there are 12 individuals hand-crafting each sandal including cutting and gluing the soles and placing the strips and logos.

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Each pair of recycled Ocean Sandal is ethically made using raw materials that have been collected from the Brazillian coast, including Itauna Beach in Saquarema. Sami stated

“I was fortunate enough to spend most of my childhood on this beach and it is famous for it’s beautiful Brazilian landscapes.” “You are part of a clean-up movement and greater initiative to save our beautiful planet when buying our sandals.” Ocean Refresh provides an appropriate example of how the fast fashion industry when partaking in the efforts towards a more sustainable and ethical production can provide the catalyst for wider changes to occur in society’s consumption patterns. It is therefore crucial that the UK fast fashion industry implements a similar system that enhances transparency and accountability from within, thus providing consumers with elevated trust and confidence when seeking to purchase ethically.

“Come and be a part of this extraordinary journey.” (Ocean Refresh, 2019)

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Conclusions

5.2 BRAND SCENARIO Below is a scenario planning tool to help find a gap in the future of sustainability within the fast fashion industry.

5.1 KEY REFLECTIONS There are strong beliefs and attitudes in relation to sustainability and fast fashion and consumers are willing to change their purchasing behaviour if brands changed theirs too. Individuals have a conscious desire to help the environment, however several variables including price and availability overtook their conscious desires. Gen Z seem to be the ‘pivotal generation’ with strong opinions on sustainability within fast fashion. Brands need to ensure that they are catering to these needs. Involvement of the pivotal consumer is integral in ensuring they are on board with the up and coming trend. Brands do not show the history behind their products, therefore consumers are unable to attach themselves to the sustainable processes. A lack of brand transparency puts consumers off which could be the main cause of the attitude behaviour gap. By providing consumers with the story behind products, the attitude behaviour gap could be less prevalent. In a world of uncertainty and distrust, consumers are looking for brands with purpose that will enrich their own lives as well as others. Therefore consumers are expecting brands to be the ‘new life coaches’.

T R A N S PA R E N T

Some luxury brands are portraying a sense of transparency in their supply chains and are willing to share the stories of their products. Using Stella McCartney as an example where Google recently announced a new partnership with Stella McCartney to bring more transparency to the fashion industry.

Currently not many, if any, fast fashion brands are portraying brand transparency which could be one of the main reasons as to why the attitude behaviour gap exists.

LU X U RY

FA S T

The global fast fashion industry is opaque, exploitative and environmentally damaging. It desperately needs a revolutionary change because so much remains hidden in the production chain and that is when exploitation thrives and tragedies like the Rana Plaza happens

Luxury brands such as Burberry are not transparent with their sustainable ways. The upmarket label has burnt more than £28 million of unwanted products over the past year creating many unwanted pollutions in to the atmosphere. This causes a lack of transparency between the brand and consumers.

O PAQ U E

Sustainability within fast fashion will improve through joint efforts from brands and consumers. 54 54

5.3 CO N C LU S I O N In conclusion, after extensive primary and secondary research aiding investigation, the report has provided a thorough insight into the subject area of sustainability with a focus on fast fashion.Throughout, there has been research conducted into how fast fashion affects purchasing behaviour as well as desires going forward. Overall, the fashion industry displays strong potential for a sustainable future as new age consumers will start to reject unsustainable fashion. The problem of sustainable fashion can not be one that can be solved overnight, however we are seeing it become the foreseeable future. The main observation discovered throughout primary research showed brand transparency to play a key role in ethical decision making. In order to promote sustainable consumerism, brands must ensure transparency and be adaptable towards change. The pricing of sustainable products remains a burden for some individuals who seek to find “value for money” and sustainable brands are urged to justify their labels with innovations or added design to encourage consumers to purchase esustainably. Consequently, consumers will be better educated, and it shall gradually become the social norm to put higher regard towards sustainable considerations, though this will be long-term.

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It is clear throughout that the fast fashion industry is in need to adapt to the changing wants and needs of their consumers. In order for brands to gain a competitive advantage in the long term, they must ensure that the trust between both the brand and the consumer is there as well as providing various routes in which consumers can display their needs as well as their wants.

It is therefore in the industry’s as much as society’s best interests to support sustainable consumption which highlights the interdependent relationship that is at the heart of the issue to instigate positive environmental change. The report set out to answer a question based on the topic of brand transparency, the attitude behaviour gap and the link between sustainability within fast fashion. However, concluding on a topic which is merely based on opinions and studies which are not large enough for substantial evidence is difficult to do. Although, it is apparent from research that there is a clear correlation between brand transparency and the attitude behaviour gap. Once synergised, it will enable the fast fashion industry and sustainability to work in tandem ensuring a brighter future for the upcoming generations.

5.4 R E CO M M E N DAT I O N S F O R A M O R E S U S TA I N A B L E FA S H I O N F U T U R E

product before the consumer purchases the item would be an interesting route to consider throughout Stage Two. This recommendation will also further explore the connection of the technology and the pivotal generation - Gen Z.

INCENTIVISATION - CARBON CREDIT

Individuals within online surveys and focus groups have been shown to have a lack of trust within fast fashion brands. Therefore a final recommendation to carry through with in to Stage Two would be to further research collaborations with sustainable fashion non- profit charities such as ‘The Clean Clothes Charity’ and fast fashion brands. This would provide consumers with a need of trust whilst shopping sustainably, knowing that their money is going towards helping the environment with no feelings of doubt. This would be an interesting route to consider due to a high amount of consumers not shopping sustainably due to a lack of trust between

One of the first recommendations to move forward with into Stage Two would be to create a platform that incentivises consumers to shop sustainably as many are stating that they want to live more sustainably and do less harm to the planet. This would enable consumers to know exactly which brands are sustainable and will help close the attitude behaviour gap in regards to acquiring information of which products are sustainable. It would involve brands cataloging their products to this platform whether it be an app or created through blockchain. Each product will equate to a certain amount of ‘sustainable points’ which will be based on several factors such as whether the item has been sourced locally, the materials used, how much CO2 was produced. Consumers can earn points by purchasing the product through the platform and as points build up, consumers can exchange them for vouchers or even contribute their points to a chosen charity which focuses on helping create a more sustainable fashion environment.

COLLABORATION

themselves and the brand.

AN OPPORTUNITY TO EDUCATE The second recommendation takes into account the observation found throughout primary research, that there is a strong desire and need for brand transparency within brands. There is a huge absence of information used to describe sustainable products from brands themselves, causing consumers to sway from buying sustainable items, particularly if the cost of the item is higher than normal. Creating an app or creating digital tagging, which provides consumers with knowledge on every detail about the 57 57