Mimo Restaurant & Bar

Melding Southern Italian and the American South Mimo

Mimo Restaurant and Bar Four Seasons Nashville

100 Demonbreun St. Nashville, TN 37201

mimorestaurant.com From the main floor of the luxe Four Seasons Nashville, Mimo Restaurant and Bar makes a dramatic statement. Spacious and modern, posh yet relaxed, its lounge, impossibly long marble bar and elegant dining room stretch along First Avenue with a wall of windows overlooking Riverfront Park. Against that backdrop, the lights along the Cumberland River dazzle: the uplit John Seigenthaler Pedestrian Bridge, the flickering bends of the Light Meander sculpture, the glowing arches of the Korean Veterans Memorial Bridge. Welcoming that existing beauty into this new space, it speaks to a city becoming a global destination.

Mimo, Italian for mockingbird, is guided by Chef Aniello “Nello” Turco, and highlights his Southern Italian cuisine: seafood- and vegetabledriven, yet adapted to the bounty and sensibility of the American South. Chef Nello, as he is best known, comes with a stellar résumé: with a career rooted in his early teens cooking in his parents’ restaurant, the Naples-born chef has honed his craft under culinary luminaries around the world, including Alain Ducasse in London and René Redzepi in Copenhagen. As executive chef of Mio at Four Seasons Beijing, he led the restaurant to achieving its first Michelin star. When the position to open a restaurant in Music City arose, he saw it as an ideal opportunity.

“I’ve always been drawn to exciting, creative, energetic cities, and Nashville is so attractive for those reasons and more,” he says. “I am honored to bring Mimo here.”

From the first bite of his artisanal sourdough bread, slathered with the signature whipped olive oil-butter infusion — dusted in caper powder — to the last spoonful of basil-lemon mousse, you’ll revel in this rustic yet sophisticated fare. Following are some not-to-miss plates which demonstrate how the chef has artfully melded Southern Italian tastes with the American South.

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From the raw bar: Hamachi Crudo arrives bathed in tomato water coulis, sparked with a dot of black olive ketchup. The citrus-poached prawns come with sauces in a trio of colors and flavors, along with a puffed grits cracker. Champagne vinaigrette magnifies plump pristine oysters.

Chef Nello’s Scallop Gratin makes a marvelous first course. He caps the shellfish with Nduja sausage paste. As it bakes, it creates a compelling savoryspiced crust that marries with the scallop’s inherent sweetness.

For his risotto, he chooses Carnaroli, the king of short-grained rices, valued for its uber-creaminess. This winter, he stirs either pumpkin or butternut squash purée and a locally-brewed IPA into the mix, finishing it with blots of black pepper reduction. One of the most delectable offerings on the menu is Mimo’s Caviar Linguine — it is also a prime example of Southern Italian meets the American South. The Osetra caviar-topped pasta is studded with slivers of crispy okra, which lend a savory, earthy note and texture. It is pure pleasure to eat.

“I used to finish it with breadcrumbs, but I wanted to find a substitute for that crunch,” the chef says. “I decided to try fried okra, and it’s amazing. It’s exactly what I was looking for.”

In Italian, “Acqua Pazza” means “crazy water” and denotes a Neapolitan technique of poaching white fish. It is worth ordering, no matter which catch of the moment is used. On this day, a firm halibut filet simmers to succulence in Chef Nello’s tomato- and artichoke-enhanced broth. Be sure to sop up the savory liquid with a piece of sourdough, if there’s any left.

A few words on fine beverages: The classic Negroni takes on seasonal variations — check out the First Citizen, named for Timothy Demonbreun. It is a white Negroni, the gin laced with peach nectar. For a brown liquor offering, try the Southern Charm: Uncle Nearest whisky stirred with Luxardo, smoked fig and walnut bitters. The wine list includes a lively selection of Italian vintages — let your server guide you. Falanghina, a white from the Campania region, pairs beautifully with seafood. Among the reds, the Barbera is a smooth, soft-tannin, dark fruit wine, versatile in food-friendliness.

As Mimo moves through the seasons, Chef Nello is excited about the possibilities afforded by our agriculture — the array of produce he’ll have available to shape his menu. "But," he reminds, “our biggest way of incorporating the South is with our Southern hospitality. We want our guests to have warm, genuine interactions with everyone on our team during every visit. That’s the key. It’s also the way we do it in Italy.”

BY NANCY VIENNEAU PHOTOGRAPHS BY DANIEL MEIGS