Rwanda Rwanda is a much smaller country than Uganda, so lends itself better to a short trip in combination with a safari or beach stay elsewhere in East Africa. The Volcanoes National Park is only two hours’ drive on tarmac road from Kigali and the international airport. For one visit to the gorillas, you will need a minimum of two nights’ stay, and three nights would be ideal. Rwanda has more than twice the number of habituated mountain gorilla groups than Uganda and so permits are generally more easily available. Rwanda gorilla groups There are currently seven main groups that can be tracked in Rwanda; the Susa, Sabinyo, Amahoro, Umubano, Hirwa, Kwitonda and Group Thirteen. The groups vary in number from around 9 to 39 individuals and all currently have at least one silverback male. Of the seven groups, there are a couple that tend to be found on the saddle between Mount Sabyinyo
SABYINYO SILVERBACK LODGE, VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK
Breakfast at Sabyinyo
This is our favourite lodge in Rwanda, and has eight cottages perched on the lower slopes of the mighty Sabyinyo Volcano. As this is a community lodge, your stay contributes directly to the local village’s health and education projects. With spectacular views over the chain of volcanoes, spacious cottages where fires are lit before your return from a day’s trekking, and hot baths to soak your weary limbs, this is a wonderful base from which to explore.
and Mount Gahinga which is around a two hour walk from the park entrance. Whilst it is not possible to book a permit for a specific group, your chances of having a shorter walk are higher than in Uganda. Nothing is guaranteed though and you may find yourself tracking a group such as the Susa, first studied by Diane Fossey and often found on the slopes of Mount Visoke, a five hour hike away. Young gorilla
Uganda Uganda is a larger country to explore than Rwanda, and it takes two long days of driving to reach the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest from Entebbe, broken up with an overnight stay halfway at Lake Mburo. Once at Bwindi we would recommend three nights before continuing your safari around Uganda. Uganda gorilla groups There are four habituated gorilla groups in Bwindi and none tend to be found near to the park entrance. The groups are called the Mubare, Habinyanja, Rushegura and Nkuringo and range in size from 10 to 20 individuals, each with one or two silverbacks. The terrain in Bwindi means that you sometimes start your trek at the top of the hills, descend on foot into
Gorillas in nests in the Virunga Mountains
BUHOMA LODGE, BWINDI IMPENETRABLE FOREST
Buhoma Lodge
Surrounded by the sights and sounds of the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Buhoma Lodge is a small, friendly lodge only five minutes’ walk from the park headquarters where you start your gorilla trekking. Built on the hillside, each of the eight cottages has a private balcony overlooking the forest canopy. This is a rustic and charming lodge with friendly staff, tasty home-cooked meals and stunning views.
the valley to see the gorillas, and then climb up the slopes at the end of the day, which can be more arduous. In short, Uganda tends to be a harder option than Rwanda.
Gorilla in the Virunga Mountains
Gorilla tracking 109