10
9–15 September 2011
C ivic/Social
Farrukhnagar’s
Forgotten Monuments PRAkhar Pandey
{ Shilpy Arora / FG }
N
ot many people know that Gurgaon has a history, other than Genpact and Maruti, and that a 30-minute drive from the main city, leads to the historical town of Gurgaon district — Farrukhnagar. A town like Farrukhnagar, that has a palace of its own, a royal step well, and Mughal and Rajputana style structures, could be a potential magnet for tourists. But, unfortunately, most of these historical structures are in a state of serious deterioration. Once an important trading centre of salt, Farrukhnagar, which can trace its history back to 1732 AD, was designed with five big darwazas (entrance gates), one of which—Dilli Darwaza—is still there. Apart from Dilli Darwaza, the town is also the proud to possess the Sheesh Mahal—the palace of the Nawab of Farrukhnagar; Boali Ghaus Ali Shah—a large octagonal step
FORLORN AND FORGOTTEN: The dilapidated Sethani ki Chhatri stands at the entrance of Farrukhnagar
is, ‘neglect by the locals’. On the other hand, local people blame the authorities for lack of maintenance of the historic structures. They say that the condition of these structures was better in the past. “When I was in school, some 40-50 years ago, I could see my reflection off the gleaming marble-tiled walls of the Chhatri. But now, one can’t make out that these walls even have marble tiles,” says Deendayal (60), who regularly visits the Sethani ki
VANISHING SPLENDOUR: Fading paintings on the Chhatri’s ceiling
cal resident, who shares the wall of her house with the majestic Sheesh Mahal, says, “In over 40 years of my stay in Farrukhnagar, I have never seen any restoration work happening in the building, except the minor patchwork done by ASI last month.” “Of the four crore rupees received by ASI for Sheesh Mahal’s restoration, only a fraction has been spent. In the name of restoration, ASI has put a wooden ceiling and a fence around Sheesh Mahal,” she adds. It is not just the double-storey
STEEPED IN HISTORY: Sheesh Mahal, once a palace of the Nawab of Farrukhnagar, is now a living ruin
well; Sethani Ki Chhatri, a twostorey airy structure; and Sitaram Mandir, a three-dome structure that looks like a mosque but houses idols of Hindu Gods and the Guru Granth Sahib, the holy book of the Sikhs. Not just history, Farrukhnagar also showcases an interesting mix of Hindu, Muslim and Sikh cultures, having withstood many invasions, before and after independence. Today, despite some efforts put in by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), and Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH), Farrukhnagar is a crumbling mess of clumsy renovations. And, it is craving for our attention.
What Went Wrong? The problem, as cited by the Convenor of the Gurgaon Chapter of INTACH, Atul Dev
Chhatri for an afternoon nap, in its airy complex. “The main issue with the restoration of the Chhatri is that it stands on private land. But, at the same time, it is given the status of Architectural Heritage by INTACH. We have had a few meetings with the land owner, and we are looking to reach a consensus, for restoring the structure,” says Shikha Jain, Chief Convenor of the Haryana Chapter of INTACH. The Chattri, which has an interesting description on the official website of Farrukhnagar, provides a sorry sight with weeds growing all around, broken pathways, and damaged wall paintings. Another important historical structure—the Sheesh Mahal, which was known for its decorative interiors and elaborate mirror work, has no trace of its former Mughal grandeur. A lo-
building of Sheesh Mahal that needs preservation, there is also a one-kilometre long tunnel, stretching from Sheesh Mahal to Baoli Ghaus Ali Shah. It is believed that the queen used to visit the baoli (step well) from the Sheesh Mahal, through this tunnel, for taking a bath—away from prying eyes. The tunnel, which has the potential to attract tourists, is closed for many years. And no effort has been made by the authorities to open it. Archaeologist Ranbir Shastri, who works with the Department of Archaeology (Haryana), says, “It is always easy to blame authorities. We have our own limitations. First, we can provide protection to only those structures that are given the status of Historical Monuments. And very few structures in Farrukhnagar are on this list. Second, ever since its formation, the department is short on funds. Which is why, we don’t have trained labour and the technology to carry out proper restoration at the sites.”
The Way Forward If lack of funds is the issue, then these ruins could be primed as a source of revenue, as they have the potential to bring tourists to Farrukhnagar. A little renovation and maintenance could make a big difference to the lives of more than 9,000 people of Farrukhnagar. Also, cultural preservation, which costs relatively little but could lead to long-term benefits, could be the prime focus. “The Sheesh Mahal could be used for organising cultural festivals, which will in bring tourists, and thus money,” suggests Jain. With over 10 historical structures in Farrukhnagar, and overall 23 structures in the district, Gurgaon is important when it comes to heritage preservation. It is a pity that the tales of destruction of these invaluable structures, are unheard of in the city of Gurgaon. If Gurgaon wants to make its past an asset, and gain from the treasures of history, the people of Gurgaon have to realise the importance of their ancient heritage. And the benefits it can still bring. u
Condition of Historical Structures in Farrukhnagar Structure
Once
Now
Sethani Ki Chhatri
A two-storeyed Chhatri, with eight arched openings on each floor, and beautiful wall paintings, depicting the life of the royal family of Farrukhnagar.
It provides a sorry sight, with weeds growing all around, broken pathways and damaged paintings.
Boali Ghaus Ali Shah
A royal step well used by the queen, to take a bath.
Has become a dumping ground, where local people throw household waste.
Sheesh Mahal
It was the palace of the Nawab of Farrukhnagar, and known for its decorative interiors and elaborate mirror work.
The palace opens to a large courtyard with a water channel, which is completely dried up. Mirror work and red stone work has completely disappeared.
One-kilometre long tunnel (from Sheesh Mahal to Baoli)
It is believed that the queen used to visit the baoli from the Sheesh Mahal, through this tunnel, to take her bath.
It has been closed for many years, and no effort has been made by authorities to open it.