Brasserie Equivoque, 16 rue Blondel, 1910 Ruth Holzer (Eugene Atget photograph) On the menu of the Equivocal Restaurant, flesh or fowl or good red herring. Svelte are the waiters who serve the wines that go with everything. The habituĂŠs: adulterous couples gorging themselves, and figures of blurred gender sitting at separate tables, quiet corners, contemplating their omnivorous city.
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