Finca Bella Vista Two Years On GARRETT ODEN revisits the Guatemalan coffee farm he journeyed to as a barista and documented his experiences for the October 2016 issue of Fresh Cup Magazine.
P H OTOS BY G ARR ET T ODEN
I
t’s been nearly two years since I visited Antigua, Guatemala, visiting coffee farms and working in Finca Bella Vista’s own café. The cobblestone streets, brightly colored buildings, and friendly locals are just as I remember them. Upon my return, one of the first things I do is reconnect with friends I made and see whether the experimental barista invitation program I participated in is still going strong. Have they gained clients, made long-lasting relationships, and helped locals learn professional barista skills? “Wow, two years already?” Luis Pedro Zelaya Zamora wondered aloud. The fourth-generation farmer in charge of Finca Bella Vista met me on the deck overlooking his farm and the towering Volcan Agua. His eyes were soft, his hands rough. Though Luis Pedro lives in Guatemala City, he loves visiting the farm in Antigua. He comes out whenever he gets the chance. “Has it been worth it?” I asked. “Hosting baristas from around the world, showing them around the farm, and letting them work in the café?” “Well, you never know what network you’re building for the future,” Luis Pedro said. “A lot of people know us in the industry now. Some of those baristas may become roasters and others may become green buyers—it’s been a good investment for the future.” Though the relationships he’s formed with the program are still new, Finca Bella Vista has actually seen some partnerships form with baristas who have moved up in their companies or launched their own coffee businesses.
Of the baristas who worked in the café in 2016, Karina is still the manager, but Marleny and Hilda had moved on and been replaced by five new employees. “The girls have learned a lot from the baristas. Now, when visitors come from the States, the girls can show that they’re not inferior in skill or knowledge. It’s really great for them personally.” Melanie Herrera, one of the farm’s administrators and the organizer of the visiting baristas program, is the same as two years ago: she’s still warm, friendly, and optimistic. She said the program has made an impact in terms of sustainability. “That’s one of the other reasons we started the barista invitation program,” Melanie says. “When someone complains about price in their café, baristas can explain how higher-priced coffee is actually a good thing.” In Guatemala, coffee farms experience an annual 3–5% increase in labor minimum wage. Pair that with the typical 3–5% increase from importers, and you get a 6–10% fixed increase every year. And that doesn’t even account for the growing risks that climate change presents. “The kind of big change we’re after really only happens when people come here and see what it’s actually like—see the human side of things—and take those experiences back with them,” Melanie said. Luis Pedro agreed. “It’s difficult to quantify the results, but we’ve seen a variety of benefits start to appear in the last year or so—for the farm and for the industry.” When I asked if they plan to stop the program anytime soon, they both smile. “Only if people stop wanting to come and see,” Luis Pedro said. FC
FRESH CUP MAGAZINE | 19
