Freesurf v21n8 August 2024

Page 1


Ha’a Aikau
Photo Mike Latronic
Profile / Rylan Beavers + Tamayo Perry Remembered + Ole Longboard Classic +
Surf photos by Dayanidhi Das

Congratulations from Katin on 30 years of the

Ole Longboard Classic!

Mahalo to the team at Hi-Tech Surf Sports for your continued support and celebration of the Maui surf community.

Thank you for having us be a part of your iconic event.

See you next year! Aloha.

Launiupoko Beach Park, Maui - July 13th 2024

MAHALO MARGARITA is a give-back cocktail program where on premise accounts donate a portion of sales from their MAHALO MARGARITA, made with Tradicional 100% agave tequila, to AccesSurf. Jose Cuervo® will match the proceeds up to $25k. Together, this joint donation of $50k would go to support surf experiences and more for a full year.

BIG ISLAND

Huggo's Lava Lava

Kai Eats

MAUI

Sergio's Cantina

KAUA'I HOTELS

Friendly Waves

OAHU

Kuhio Avenue Food Hall / Waikiki

Kelly O’Neil's / Waikiki

Jorge's / Haleiwa

El Ranchero / Kapolei

El Ranchero / Wahiawa

Mekiko Cantina / Ko’olina

Restaurant 604 / Arizona Memorial

The Beachouse by 604 / Waianae

60 Fore Bar & Grill / Barber’s Point

604 Clubhouse / Leilehua

604 Ale House / Schofield

Mangiamo’s / Navy Marine Golf

OAHU HOTELS

Sheraton Waikiki Hotel

Royal Hawaiian Hotel

Moana Surfrider Hotel

Princess Kaiulani Hotel

Marriott Waikiki Hotel

FREE PARKING

Yago Dora deep in a Tahition barrel. Photo Brent Bielmann

EDITORIAL

Editor / Publisher Mike Latronic

Photo Director

Brian Bielmann

Art Director

John Weaver

Editorial Assistant

Kaea Latronic

Business Administration

Cora Sanchez (808) 260-9219

West Coast Distribution & Sales

Chuck Hendsch (619) 227-9128

Distribution & Advertising Inquiries (808) 260-9219

Staff Shooters

Brent Bielmann, Mike Latronic, Aukai Ng, John Weaver

Contributing Writers

Aukai Ng, Rebecca Parsons, Alexandra Kahn, Daniel Ikaika Ito, Nicole Nason, Amanda Crater Olson

Contributing Photographers

Alex Heil, Dooma Photos, Dayanidhi Das, Eric Aeder, Jason Kenworthy, Stu Soley, Mark Rodrigues, Aaron Lynton, Kurt Steinmetz, Mike Ito, Nick Gruen, Ryan Miller, Tommy Pierucki, Eric Baeseman, Ryan “Chachi” Craig, Christa Funk, Sarah Lee, Sean Evans, Tai Vandyke, Mitch McEwen

FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i and Southern California. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com

Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2024

Makua Rothman making the most of a south swell in Honolulu, turning hard off the top. Photo Brian Bielmann

@boho_swim_

cheekybeachisland.com

EDITOR'S NOTE

Even if you didn’t really know Tamayo Perry or simply heard his amazing Pipeline reputation, Sunday, July 14 was a day that was truly revealing for this particular human being.

Nearly 1500 people gathered on the grassy field at Sunset Beach Park directly across from the Banzai Pipeline to celebrate the life of a truly beloved huma. The hugs, kisses, smiles, handshakes and tears told the story of a popular, authentic, loved and

It was the biggest honorary gathering in the surfing world that I have ever seen and definitely the most touching.

As a fallen “first responder” of the City and County of Honolulu he was honored by the presence and salute of nearly 100 of his coworkers and associates. One of his best childhood friends was Jack Johnson who played music alongside Paula Fuga. Perry was a colorful character in the community and in surfing circles. Popular in school, “Tomato” was a rascal joker, but always with a good heart. Perry was described by close friends as a “big personality.” Most would say his love for people and his heart was even bigger. Tamayo had a famous, boisterous, big laugh and his storytelling expertise, and volume was only rivaled by his lovely wife Emilia.

It was well known, and in fact, even documented by Perry himself, that he was unafraid nor sad to leave this Earth. Tamayo’s pastor JD Farag was first to speak of his huge faith that he would walk alongside his savior Jesus Christ. His belief was powerful and although his friends and family expressed deep sadness at his absence, the entire field oozed in confidence that he was in a better place. His pastor, best friends and family uttered beautiful words. It was understood that if given the chance, Tamayo wouldn’t come back to Earth if he could. He was right by his savior's side in heaven. Instead he would happily wait for his brothers and sisters in faith to join.

The paddle out at Pipeline, his favorite surf break, was absolutely enormous. With roughly a 1000 people in the water a helicopter dropped flowers and Hawaiian chants could be heard both happy and sad. The legendary Hawaiian sailing vessel the Hokule’a made a special voyage to the Pipeline in honor of Tamayo Perry. It was truly an amazing day to remember an amazing beautiful person. Rest in peace. Enjoy this mag and the tribute inside.

3 WAIKIKI LOCATIONS!

Kai Coffee Hawaii at Alohilani Resort

2490 Kalakaua Ave, Suite #131 Honolulu, Hawai'i 96815 (808) 926-1131

Hours: 6:00AM - 5:00PM HST (UTC-10), 7 days a week

Kai Coffee Hawaii Lobby Bar at Alohilani Resort

Hours: 6:00AM-11:00AM HST, 7 days a week

Kai Coffee Hawaii Hyatt Regency Waikiki

2424 Kalakaua Avenue, #130

Honolulu, Hawai'i 96815 (808) 923-1700

Hours: 6:00AM - 5:00PM HST (UTC-10), 7 days a week

Mike:

Aloha Ha’a! Do you remember that wave on the cover?

Ha’a:

Absolutely! I remember that wave like it was yesterday! I had to be at my house at 5:30 and I think it was already 3:30 and I was kind of pushing it but I saw you were out and the waves were fun! I didn't have much time but it was really uncrowded and I actually wanted to go in on that wave. I never go in unless I feel like I did something really good and I could go in on a high, 'cause surfing, that's my high nowadays. I saw you and I was like, okay, I'm NOT going in. I'm gonna paddle back out and just keep surfing because when do we ever get both, good uncrowded waves and an opportunity to shoot with you? It was just a couple guys out and I was actually happy that I got to be in the mix. That was my best wave that session. Everybody was practicing for that Local Motion WSL event like Jackson Bunch and whatnot. I feel like a little older guy compared to 'em, but I still feel like a little kid, so it's kind of hard to not feel as if I was one of them. So I just kind of felt like a little kid again in a way.

Mike:

You blew tail and went in the air and it was kind of backlit but it looked cool. I have a pet peeve. I really don't like to showcase aerials when the rider doesn't make it, but I saw you tag the next section from the back so I was stoked when I saw that you pulled it! Anything else you wanna say?

Ha’a

I just wanna say I'm just happy to be surfing and you know, it's mainly because of my dad (Clyde) burning a fire under my butt to get back in the water. He's kept me on this path I've been on, so just wanna give a shout out and dedicate this moment to my dad and my mom as well.

(His dads been battling cancer so at this point he says all this with deep emotion.)

This made my year uncle Mike. Thank you so very much words can't describe this. So much love for you and the guys at freesurf.

Ha'a Aikau Photo Mike Latronic
Rylan Beavers Photo Jersson Barboza / ISA 18

Rylan Beavers

There’s nothing in a Kauai boy’s life that matters more than the ocean. It grooms every keiki that has the privilege of growing up in a slice of paradise. From kid, to adolescent, to adult living in Kauai– the ocean is the sun: everything else revolves around it. For Rylan Beavers, this was no exception. The ocean not only raised him in the same sense that his parents did, but it taught him about dreaming, about reaching. It taught him what could be possible.

Surfing wasn’t always the center of his life. It happened to be something he did and was good at. Rylan caught his first wave on Valentine’s Day when he was two years old, and it seems as if Cupid’s arrow struck that day—it’s been a love story ever since. Rylan started surfing consistently when he was 8, after his Dad stopped pushing him into waves. From there, without the training wheels, it only got better. He did his first contest when he was 9 which he won, and was subsequently 10 at his first Nationals, which he also won. From there, the fire was lit. “I realized surfing was my passion when I was playing other sports, especially soccer, and I started missing swells to play in games. I drew the line right there. It wasn’t going to happen anymore. I didn’t want to miss any more, and I went full-on after that.”

Born and raised on the North Shore of Kauai, the island not only molded him, but showed him the possibility of achieving a dream that had once felt far-fetched: qualify for the CT, become a pro. Unlike ‘Oahu, few surfers emerge from the Kauai lifestyle and make surfing a career. Rylan is an exception. Now his dreams aren’t only possible, but he’s gliding on the fringes of them.

Rylan Beavers Photo Jersson Barboza / ISA

Yet for Rylan possibility hasn’t meant an inflated ego. For Rylan, his successes have also translated into humility. His Dad attributes his calm demeanor and the challenges he’s overcome to his chill, humble nature. “I’d say his laid-back demeanor helps him reason things in his head without getting flustered, and that probably translates to situations in the water where he needs a score, or play defense, or select the right wave. I’m sure having that rational part in his head translates in contests.” Rylan’s disposition and a positive go-getter attitude has not only made it possible to overcome inevitable challenges that come with being an elite athlete, but to do so with modesty.

Things weren’t always easy for Rylan and his family. Rylan had a humble, normal upbringing, and two driven, working-class parents. It’s not easy for anyone to make a living on Kauai, and his parents had to work hard for their life in paradise. Originally from Colorado, Rylan’s Dad, Taylor, met his Mom, Mandy, a Kauai native. It was an easy decision for them to move to Kauai to start a life. They eventually had Rylan, and

it was never in the cards to throw him into a career that involved surfing. Said Taylor, Rylan’s Dad: “For us, we just spent a lot of time going to the beach. All of our kids have been in the water since they were really young. We’d take the soft tops down and push them into waves at the pier. He took to it pretty good, but it wasn’t like I was trying to raise a pro-surfer. It was more about learning a solid skill set at a young age that they can have their whole life. It’s just sort of mutated into something competitive as he got good.”

A lot of Rylan’s success has come as an exciting surprise— from getting his first sponsor at 8 with a local company called Sandy Grom, to winning local contests, to winning Nationals at 11 years old in 2017. It wasn’t until Rylan began surfing with a family friend they call “Uncle Moose”, when things started to improve. “Uncle Moose (Mesijah Alani) would take me out every Monday, Wednesday and Friday after school and would drop me off at home. He played a little bit of a coach role until things picked up, but we

Photo Mike Latronic

Rylan Beavers

always had the best time. He brought me out to all the lineups for the first time, especially gnarlier waves, bigger waves, and I always felt safe with him. He pushed me.”

Uncle Moose also gave Rylan the idea that he could be successful. He saw something special in him, and did what he could to make sure he lived up to his potential.

Taylor credits Uncle Moose for his mentorship, and says that Uncle Moose was the person to stoke the fire.

Things started to pick up when Rylan started taking trips to the North Shore of ‘Oahu, surfing with the guys who inspired him, and ultimately took him under their wing. He was 10 when he surfed with the RVCA manager on the North Shore of Oahu, who he was unaware of at the time. He called Rylan later to tell him RVCA wanted to sponsor him.

Rylan gave the QS a preview of what he was capable of after he finished 7th at Sunset this last year. He worked with Jason Shibata, who helped with Rylan’s mindset and heat strategy. “Sunset was the first time I believed I could be competitive on that level. We had a solid strategy for every heat, and that carried me all the way to the semis. I think the only thing that made me lose was that I was so surprised that I made it that far.”

Since Sunset, Rylan has been wrapping up the big events at the junior level. He just finished competing in El Salvador at the ISA World Championships, where he racked up some lastminute points for Team Hawai’i, but ultimately being edged out against the stacked Australians. Although disappointed he didn’t come out on top, it’s not over for Rylan. He still has the US Championships at Lowers this summer, where he hopes to make a redemption and win.

“Now that I know what’s possible, I’m hungry for it.”

ELI OLSEN MUSIC VIBES

Music has a big effect on emotions, I can be tired and dragging my feet and hear a song that gets me amped and I’ll just get this energy and excitement out of nowhere and I’m like motivated and thinking ok we got this haha or I could be just driving down the road and hear a song that makes you think of a friend who passed away that used to always play it and then you have this sad cloud above your head for a little. Music is powerful Music is important to me for so many core memories around the world, they can be like time stamps from different trips or places or people. You can not see someone for years and hear a song and it instantly brings you back to some hilarious moment with a friend and then I’ll shoot them a txt or call and check in and send love.

I did get inspired watching clips of Tupac speaking whatever was on his mind, he was so raw that people either loved him or hated him but he was true to himself. We live in a world where people are so scared to be honest because we don’t want to hurt peoples feelings or offend anyone but it’s getting out of control. I remember Andy irons having that same mentality. Just no filter with a hate it or love it approach. Thats not saying be a dick and don’t be compassionate for others because we never know what people are going through behind closed doors, but I do believe people should keep it real and speak their minds. Rhythm and music can effect your surfing just like how it can effect your mood/energy. I absolutely love bob marley but I’m not playing his songs before paddling giant jaws or before my heat in the Eddie haha I’m blasting some deep house or aggressive rap jumping up and down ready to go all in!

T.I.
TUPAC SHAKUR
ZOE
Eli Olsen Photo Brent Bielmann

Big Wave is a lighter-bodied golden ale with a tropical hop aroma and flavor—smooth, easy drinking, and refreshing. The use of caramel malt contributes to the golden hue of this beer, and our special blend of hops provides a bright, quenching finish that makes it a struggle to not grab another one.

Kona Pub & Brewery Kona Brewing HawaiiKai

Mahalo for Drinking Responsibly. ©2023 Kona Brewing Hawaii Photo: Mike Latronic

South swells are a significant phenomenon in California, Hawaii, and Tahiti, especially during the summer months when storms in the southern hemisphere generate large waves that travel across the Pacific Ocean. In California, these swells bring consistent and powerful waves to popular surf spots like Malibu and Huntington Beach, attracting surfers from all over. Hawaii's southern shores, particularly on the islands of Oahu and Maui, experience similar effects, with famous breaks such as Ala Moana and Diamond Head coming to life. Tahiti, known for its world-class waves, benefits from these swells at iconic surf locations like Teahupo'o, where the waves can become exceptionally large and challenging, making it a mecca for professional surfers. The south swells are vital for the surf culture and economy in these regions, providing ideal conditions for competitions, recreation,

SWELL SOUTH

Gabriel Medina Photo Brent Bielmann
Bobby Fernandez
Photo Mike Latronic
Photo Ryan "Chachi" Craig
Photo J Weaver
Griffin Colapinto on one of the best waves of the day and possibly one of the best waves of his life. The swell before the Shiseido Tahiti Pro. Photo Brian Bielmann

Tahiti

THE BIRTH OF A SWELL

I n the remote and untamed latitudes of the Southern Hemisphere, south swells are born in a region known as the roaring forties. This area, between 40 and 50 degrees south, is infamous for its fierce storms and powerful low-pressure systems. The confluence of these meteorological forces generates enormous energy, which is transferred to the ocean, creating swells that travel thousands of miles across the Pacific Ocean.

Meteorologically, the formation of a south swell involves three key factors: wind speed, storm duration, and fetch (the distance over which the wind blows). When these elements align perfectly, the stage is set for some of the most exhilarating surfing experiences on the planet.

The south swell season typically spans from May to October, coinciding with the Southern Hemisphere’s winter. During this period, storms in the roaring forties are more frequent and intense.

Jake Maki enjoying his Tahiti barrel time while another surfer takes in the view paddling by. A photographer in the water tries to capture the special moment on a GoPro. Photo Brian Bielmann

Tatiana Weston-Webb
Photo Brent Bielmann

TEAHUPO’O, TAHITI: THE APEX OF SOUTH SWELL POWER

Part one of our story centers on Tahiti, specifically Teahupo’o, a surf break that is legendary. Teahupo’o is not just a wave: it's an icon, known for its sheer power, heavy hollow barrels, and the bone-crushing force that comes with it. When a large south swell hits Teahupo’o reef, it transforms into a beast that is both mesmerizing as it is terrifying.

Teahupo’o’s unique underwater topography is key. The sudden depth change from super deep water to super shallow reef amplifies the energy of the incoming swell. The result is a gorgeous, thick, translucent monster. The name Teahupo’o itself translates to "place of skulls," a testament to the wave's fearsome reputation.

Oahu

THE SOUTH SWELL’S VOYAGE TO HAWAII

The arrival of the south swell transforms Oahu’s southern shore into a surfer’s paradise, with dozens of iconic surf breaks coming to life. On a solid swell, there’s tons of variety with each spot offering a unique experience, catering to different styles and skill levels.

Isaiah Moniz riding a classic Ala Moana wave with a sailboat as a backdrop to give you the complete summer vibe. Photo Brian Bielmann

An unknown kamikaze bodyboarder dropping into a wild and woolly backwash wave

It felt like the majority of the swells power was concentrated on that one little zone.

at Sandy beach.
Photo Brian Bielmann

Ala Moana Bowls: Just west of Waikiki, Ala Moana Bowls is a premier surf break known for its powerful lefthand reef break. When the south swell hits, Bowls delivers long, fast, and hollow waves that are perfect for highperformance surfing. Surfers flock to this spot for its consistency and power.

Waikiki: Often referred to as the birthplace of modern surfing, Waikiki Beach offers a more relaxed and historic surfing experience. The south swell brings long, gentle waves to Waikiki, ideal for beginners and longboarders. Surfers can enjoy leisurely rides that stretch for hundreds of yards, all while taking in the scenic views of Diamond Head and the vibrant energy of one of the world’s most famous beaches. It's typically packed with beginner surfers and surf lessons. Waikiki’s waves are a testament to the enduring appeal of surfing in Hawaii, birthplace of the infamous “beach boy” culture where the sport’s roots run deep.

Kelia Moniz Photo Brent Bielmann
Royal Hawaiian views. Photo Heff
Jackson Bunch
Photo Mike Latronic

Kewalos: Located near Ala Moana, Kewalos is another beloved surf spot on Oahu’s south shore. Known for its playful, yet shallow waves, Kewalos offers both lefts and rights, making it a versatile break suitable for surfers of all levels. The south swell enhances Kewalos’ waves, creating fun, consistent rides that are perfect for practicing high octane maneuvers or simply going fast in full forward trim.

Sandy Beach: Situated on the southeastern tip of Oahu, Sandy Beach, or "Sandys," is famed for its powerful, bone crushing shore break. The south swell amplifies the waves at Sandys, creating fast, hollow sections that are ideal for bodyboarding and bodysurfing, as well as advanced surfers seeking an adrenaline rush. The waves here provide some thrilling rides and definitely dramatic wipeouts. Despite its challenging conditions, Sandy Beach remains a popular spot for those looking to push their limits.

and the shared passion of surfers. Each surf break on Oahu’s southern coast offers a unique slice of the south swell experience, from the high-performance waves of Ala Moana Bowls to the historic charm of Waikiki, the playful peaks of Kewalos, and the thrilling shore break of Sandy Beach.

F or surfers, the arrival of the south swell is a time of excitement and camaraderie. It’s a celebration of the ocean’s energy and the thrill of riding waves that have traveled across the vast expanse of the Pacific. The south swell season on Oahu is more than just a natural phenomenon; it’s a cultural event that brings the surfing community together, fostering a deep connection to the sea and to each other.

THE SPIRIT OF THE SOUTH SWELL

The journey of the south swell from Teahupoo to Oahu’s south shore is a story of nature’s raw power and beauty, a testament to the interconnectedness of the world’s oceans

Whether you’re a seasoned pro dropping into a hollow barrel at Bowls, a longboarder cruising the gentle waves of Waikiki, a fun-seeker enjoying the playful surf at Kewalos, or an adrenaline junkie tackling the shore break at Sandy Beach, the south swell offers something for everyone. It’s a reminder of the magic and majesty of the ocean, and the endless adventure that awaits those who answer its call.

Photo Mike Latronic

ALWAYS SEARCHING FOR THE PERFECT LEFT...

California

Story Amanda Blackwell Photos Mike Harris

It’s 7 am mid-June in San Clemente: tropical systems from the south are making their way to the Orange County Coast, and summer is in full swing. The typical morning marine layer has taken a brief hiatus, making way for azure and cornflower blue skies. The sun is bright but still low on the horizon, and it’s a perfect 70 degrees. The nearby hillsides lining the 5 are hanging onto a tinge of green from a much-needed rainy season and a wet, El-Niño winter. A raging winter storm made its way up to the San O parking lot in February, sucking most of the iconic and precious front-row parking spots out to sea. The devastation left only the upper concrete lot with only about twenty-five coveted spots for surfers. A big blow for most everyone who frequents this iconic stretch of coast. There was talk that San O would be closed ‘indefinitely’, but catastrophizing aside, repairs were swift and the park re-opened back in April. With San Onofre restored to its former glory, the line forming at the ranger station has already begun to back up. It’s mostly Subarus and Tacomas, with single fins in the beds, and tied to roofs. There’s a few pickups with camper shells likely carrying short boards and camping gear, a little more subdued than the cars with longboards announcing their presence. Most of the cars in line have their windows down, a hum of pre-surf soundtracks blending into another. A white jeep with three longboards and three bleach blonde surfer girls are swaying to Jack Johnson, a Subaru Impreza bumping Rebelution-- it’s the perfect mix of summer sounds for a cliché sunny day in Southern California. Regardless of the pre-surf soundtrack or choice in length of board, every surfer waiting in line has one thing in common: the undeniable froth every surfer has to get in the water. There’s an air of impatience coming from each car because they all have the itch. Every surfer knows this itch is something only the ocean can scratch.

Some would argue that California’s Southern coast has some of the best surf in the world, which could be true-- depends on the day and who you’re talking to. In 2018 Governor Jerry Brown signed a bill that officially made surfing California’s state sport—acknowledging how rich the sport is in the state’s culture. It’s certainly littered with history, in the 1910’s and 1920’s, Duke Kahanamoku ignited a bit of momentum on his trips to Orange County, where he’d attract big crowds and put surfing on the SoCal map. Some credit the Duke for bringing the surf craze to California, some credit his predecessor Irish-Hawai’ian George Freeth Jr., but regardless—surfing in California has grown roots and remained planted.

When temperatures start to increase and water begins to heat up, a shift occurs. Surfers flock to South-facing shores, ditching the booties, hoods and 4:3 wetsuits until November. About 60 miles South of San Clemente closer to the border of Mexico, South San Diego County has some of the warmest waters in California and ‘trunking it’ in the summer around July is typical. Southwest groundswells or hurricane swells, average about 2-6 feet between July and October, leaving miles of beach breaks with a few reefs, jetties and piers for the San Diego frother. Like much of California, South County draws quite a crowd and an alarm clock is a California surfer's best friend—to beat the crowds and onshore wind. Black’s Beach is a San Diego icon, and everyone knows it. Technically a nude beach, there might be some tanned buns at one of the three main peaks at Black’s. Some rouge peaks and sneaky inside sections can work for anyone scrappy or wanting to hide from the crowds. When Black’s is on, it’s on- a deep water canyon can hold more energy year-round for larger swells. For the beach break lover, the sandbars at La Jolla shores on either side of Scripps Pier is a popular spot, although the summer

months give way to smaller conditions, it is perfect for the logs or grom getting their first taste of stoke. Traveling a bit north on the 5 is North County, home to surf towns such as Encinitas and Oceanside. Swami’s, a unicorn right reef break is the town’s gem. Most die-hard Swami’s regulars have been surfing the break most of their lives, and there’s a sense of localism or camaraderie—depends on if you’re a local or visitor. Locals will say there’s nothing unfriendly about the break, but most everyone who has been initiated into a spot knows what that means. Oceanside hugs the periphery of Camp Pendleton and is littered with shorebreaks that line up when the sandbars are groomed and conditions favorable. Both sides of the Oceanside pier can be solid choices too.

H eading North on the 5, passing Camp Pendleton and well past San Onofre, Orange County is home to some of California’s gems. The CEO of Rainbow Sandals’ Pat Huber grew up in San Clemente where the company’s headquarters are still located, and said his childhood revolved around the beach and surfing. “Orange County has some of the most consistent surf in the state, and I was lucky to grow up in the middle of it. Surfing Trestles and riding my bike to work at Rainbow as a young teenager—it doesn’t get much better than that.” It’s hard to deny that Trestles is the pinnacle for Southern California. Lower Trestles will shape up beautifully with any tinge of south swell. Locals often call it a “wave pool” or “skate park” because it’s so consistent. Renowned surf photographer Mike Harris also grew up in the area. “Trestles is a world class wave- it’s the last stop on the tour, you have all of these pro surfers coming up who grew up surfing it- it’s hard to deny. Southern California is pretty average, but Trestles is above average and consistent.” Slightly north you’ll stumble onto Newport Beach, home of endless

One moment the world is as it is. The next, it is something entirely different... Sage Burke seeing things differently.

Right place at the right time. Huntington Beach Pier.
San Clemente storm cloud. Griffin Colapinto.

shore breaks and the Wedge—otherwise called the “Meat Grinder.” Mike Harris is known for being one of the first and few surfers in the 80’s taking on the challenge. “The Wedge is psycho, it’s the Southern California Pipeline—and it’s death.” A tinge North and you’ll run into Huntington Beach, otherwise known as “Surf City USA”--hosting the world’s biggest surf contest in the summertime, the US Open of Surfing at the Huntington Pier. Whether it’s San O, Trestles or the Wedge, Orange County is arguably the epicenter for California surfing.

W inding through the dense Los Angeles traffic nearing LAX and the 405, LA based surfers find solace along the Malibu coast. When you zoom out from the stereotypical LA materialism and luxury vehicles, the picturesque Pacific Coast Highway is muddled with great breaks but heavy crowds. More known for peelers ideal for logs, Malibu is the

star of the show in the summer for LA based surfers. Yet lineups are dense, some say the worst in the state, and traffic can be daunting—typical for LA. It’s said that some guys who work in the film industry tend to surf crowded breaks like Topanga and First Point at night, thanks to the Santa Monica light pollution, in order to score without the hoards in lineups. But you didn’t hear that from us. Other notable Malibu breaks notorious for favoring some south swell include Zuma, Leo Carillo and County Line.

Unlike its southern Los Angeles borders, Ventura County is known for its quiet humility and subdued confidence. Don’t expect to trunk it this far north up the coast. It’s still a bit chilly and only a few days or weeks out of the year have water warm enough to bring out the spring suit. Dense fog is common in the mornings, as are as afternoon onshore

"I imagined this shot for decades, but never knew how I would get high enough to take it. Luckily, one of the multimillion dollar homes at Wedge had scaffolding around the house. So I seize the moment, jumped over the fence, climb the scaffolding, and got the shot.

Dawson Tyler on (literally) the last bomb of the swell. " - Mike Harris

CALIFORNIA

winds. Although some of the best surf exists in the winter south of the Point of Conception, the summer months offer some consistent and smaller peelers for summer surf enthusiasts. Oxnard Shores is solid with punchy shorebreaks and heavy on the localism. The area around Ventura Pier has had many makeovers, and to the right of the pier there are right point-break peelers with nice walls year-round. At the boardwalk, C-St. to surfers, Surfers’ Point to non-surfers, Ventura’s go-to wave is nestled in perfect view of walkers and beach goers. Some of the longest rides in California are possible if you start at Pipe and connect all the way to the Cove, or C-St’s inside section. A bit up the 101 in Carpenteria is “Queen of the Coast”, otherwise known as Rincon. Typically perfect for winter WNW swells, 300-yard rides, or getting dropped in on by a dolphin, but the summer months still have a few good days perfect for the single fin.

C
"What lies behind you and what lies in front of you, pales in comparison to what lies within you"

alifornia’s stretch of coast can be a silver platter for any surfer willing to fork over money for gas and willing to endure traffic on the freeway. We barely skimmed the surface from the plethora of peaks and breaks. From the Mexican border to the Point of Conception- the choices are endless. Some California surfers argue that the crowds have grown too heavy, and its glory days are behind us. Yet Mike Harris said it best: “California in general is getting so much more crowded, more high rises and buildings, and away from the small surf communities. We are so inundated with video and content, that it kinda loses its certain something. But one thing that doesn’t change in the surfing realm is simply grabbing your board, paddling out, getting in the ocean, feeling the salt on your face, the sunshine, and catching a wave. We miss that in the busyness and craziness of life. We are all in it, but surfing is surfing when it comes down to it.” In Southern California, anyone who surfs knows it’s a way of life, one that will continue to ease the itch for a long time to come.

Tamayo Perry

1975-2024

In June of this year, the surfing world lost a true hero. Tamayo perry was perhaps one of the top 5 all time performers at Banzai Pipeline. He was a huge performer in the surf over the past three or four decades but his personality, laugh, smile and good vibration was even bigger. Husband, lifeguard, friend to many and inspiration to all that knew him, Tamayo Perry will be missed. At his wake nearly 1500 souls gathered to honor, celebrate and remember him. Here’s just a few of the many touching stories, memories and yarns about this man and his amazing spirit and life.

Below are some words in print about Tamayo from his beautiful service and paddle out . And a few of the millions on social media.

EMILIA PERRY

Tamayo was definitely one of a kind. He had a way to make everyone he encountered feel special. I was lucky to have him for so many years. What a blessed life we lived together. We traveled the world, surfed a lot, and spent a lot of time together every day, doing everything and also nothing. I'm grateful for the past 26 years-what a chapter. I will continue forward with my next chapter in life, carrying his message with me and sharing it with all who I encounter. We will meet again. I promise.

I'd like to end by quoting some of Tamara's very recent words, sent via text to good friends. It was really beautiful and comforting for me to read these words just days after he passed. I hope it brings you some comfort as well.

Tamayo’s words to Emilia:

"I can't wait to meet the King. I'm excited, not scared. For my friends and family who think we've got plenty of time to ignore what's happening right in front of our eyes, we've got to pray and forgive and love. Not compromise our faith and His word, but genuinely love. Jesus is real. He is the true escape. I'm ready to jump on that Zion train. That Zion train is coming our way. I no like to miss that ride!"

Tamayo was the best person I knew. He had such a strong moral compass; he just knew right from wrong. He definitely shaped our whole friend group.

I've known him for about 40 years now, but even if you knew him for just one day or two, you would get to know him because he was so open. He was so ready for the experience of life.

He enjoyed conversation so much. He loved people. He loved telling stories, but he also loved listening to stories. He loved to laugh more than anybody I knew. For me, if I could make him laugh, that was just the biggest accomplishment—it made me feel so good. The very first time we met, that was what happened.

Anyway, Pipeline is where I met Tamara and where he asked me to marry him, where we spent a majority of our relationship. It is where I will lay him to rest. Thank you for all your love and support, and God bless you all. Thank you.

It was in school, second period, and he sat right next to me. He starts going off about whoever the teacher was—I forget who it was now—saying how mean she was and all this stuff. I'm sitting there and saw the perfect opportunity. I only knew this guy for like 30 seconds at this point. I looked over and said, "Hey, that's my mom." (pauses) You guys have never seen—I know you know Tamayo well— but you've never seen him backpedal like this. He started apologizing, saying, "Hey, I am so sorry. I don't know why I said that. She's actually really cool. I was just trying to be cool, you know, making new friends and stuff." Then I looked at him and said, "Nah, I'm just kidding."

Tamayo looked at me for a while, like he didn't know if he should be mad. He just stared at me, sizing me up. Then he started laughing so hard, like I'd never seen anybody laugh that hard. That was the first thing I remember about him. I was just like, I love this guy.

Photo Christa Funk
Photo Brent Bielmann
Photo Brent Bielmann
Photo Brent Bielmann

Alex Florence ❤

Rochelle Ballard So wild ❤��

Jennifer Tema Showed us how to save lives, be brave, have faith, love & regulated those who needed it. Rest in love Tamayo & so much love & prayers to you and your family @ emiliaperry ����

Pancho Sullivan������ Heartbreaking! Such a tragic loss. His pure heart and genuine enthusiasm for life and riding waves was truly infectious. I will miss you my friend. Rest in paradise

moana.17 ��

ka Ito Mālama pono e ‘Ohana Perry����

mfanno ❤❤

photogordinho Tamayo Perry-RIP��#photogordinho

Jenneifertema1 Showed us how to save lives, be brave, have faith, love & regulated those who needed it. Rest in love Tamayo & so much love & prayers to you and your family @ emiliaperry ����

john_john_florence Some of my best memories surfing Pipe when I was young were getting to watch Tamayo stand tall in 10-12 ft Pipe barrels, coming out smiling every time. I loved Tamayo and learned from him because he always told you how it was. Every day, whether he was in the water or being a lifeguard, he always had a big smile for our family. We will miss you Tamayo. Sending our love to his wife Emilia and family.

Torreymeister �� ��

barton_lynch Love you guys ❤ anything anytime

casualluke ❤❤❤

healeywaterdrops Love to the Perry’s. I’m going to miss him.

tomservaisjr So tragic, shocking. Such a great human being, we definitely will miss seeing him coming out of the water at pipe and hanging out with us on the beach.

rochelleballard So wild ���� rjsurfboards ��❤

erikaederphotography what a shocker. so sorry to hear.�� ��❤

Photos Brian Bielmann

Tamayo's room was super clean with not a sock on the floor, not a book out of place. His bed was neatly made with blankets tucked under the edge. Like, who does that? He also had the biggest collection of Star Wars, G.I. Joe, and He-Man action figures of any kid around. But he had very strict rules about how you could play with his toys. You could only play with one or two at a time. You would have to return one toy to its rightful case before you could get another. And the action figures couldn't bring the action. As kids, we thought, "That's crazy, bro, because aren't you supposed to just dump out all your toys and we get to play with 'em? And why the heck couldn't He-Man battle Skeletor or do a karate kick to Cobra Commander in the face?" Those were profound questions for kids at the time. But as we got older, I soon realized that Tamayo valued order and structure and strived to maintain control of his environment despite all the chaos that surrounded him or the chaos that he created. More importantly, he was deeply committed to protecting and caring for the things that he valued most. And at the top of this list was Emilia.

By the time he was 12 years old, he had declared to everyone that he was going to be a professional surfer. And of course, we all scoffed. But after his sixth-grade year, he had gotten himself a pair of 6'8" pintails and took a trip with his dad, Thomas, to Puerto Escondido. In the seventh grade, he got his first photo riding a legit eight-foot Pipeline wave, although to this day, we still contend it was a barrel dodger. Uncompromising in his convictions, he reached his goal and indeed became the world-renowned professional surfer he said he would be. But despite all of his accomplishments and accolades in and out of the water, Tamayo always remained humble, generous, and true to his roots.

His relationships transcended national and cultural boundaries, as well as social and economic classes. His ability to make personal connections and bring people together from all walks of life is what made him so truly special.

Photo Brent Bielmann

Big personality, big smile. In fact, I think he even slept smiling. He never stopped smiling. He would sit right in the front row with big eyes, big smile, big personality, and a big presence.

Why did God allow that to happen? Don't ask that. Instead, ask what. Instead of asking God why this happened, ask God what He wants to show you because this happened.

Here's another thing he'd want me to say to you. He'd want me to say that we're all one step away from our own death. But we are also one step away from eternal life.

This brings me to the most important thing, and I know this without question. The one thing I could just see him telling me is, "Pastor JD, you gotta tell them about Jesus and the gospel of salvation. 'Cause I wanna see them again. I can't come back down there, and I wouldn't even if I could, but they could come up here."

kimogaspar Solid human being ❤ RIP Tamayo Love you braddah

jacksnyder1 ❤ great dude pure heart ��

rabbitbartholomew ❤ such a great guy, a master out at Pipe

mitchell.james.mcewen ❤❤❤��

kellyslater ❤❤❤

luanasilva_ Lots of love Emilia ❤

landon_mcnamara Aloha Spirit lived in him ❤ all my love to the Perry’s in this time

leahloves Love as pure as it gets ❤❤❤ my heart is with you

joelcenteio Legend

brianbielmann Oh my gosh tears in my eyes what a privilege to call him our friend!!!!

shanebeschen ❤❤���� So sorry Emilia and family.

mikestewart ❤

mikecoots ♥♥♥♥

christianhosoi In confidence because of what Jesus Christ has done on the cross for us… Tamayo is in heaven carving the clouds and worshiping the one and only true God… who saves… who delivers… who sets free… in this world… I know I will see you again my brother… till we meet in the line up in heaven… hold it down!!! I’m blessed that I had a chance to meet you in this world… ❤✝ Condolences to @emiliaperry Ohana and friends… 1 Thessalonians 4:13-18 ✝

Photo Brian Bielmann

Love and Aloha, till we meet again.

Tamayo Perry 1975-2024

a great family vibe at Maui's nose-riding conditions.

Ole Longboard Classic presented by Hi-Tech the 30th Annual

Launiupoko Beach Park, Maui. July 13, 2024 - Celebrating its 30th year, the Ole Longboard Classic presented by Hi-Tech Surf Sports, was particularly poignant this year marking the first time the annual event has run since the devastating fires in Lahaina less than a year ago. Many of those in attendance, including the longtime contest director Kim Ball of Hi-Tech, had been directly affected by the tragedy. But, the event was a shining example of how Maui's dynamic surf community has been at the forefront of response and resilience - as recently acknowledged with the Muhammad Ali Sports Humanitarian Award being given to the waveriders of Maui who continue to band together to see their community through this unprecedented challenge.

This event gets its namesake from legendary Lahaina shaper Bob “Ole” Olson, one of the pillars of the Valley Isle’s vibrant longboard scene. Held at Launiupoko Beach Park, just south of Lahaina. The setting is as idyllic of a family beach as you can find. Dozens of families set up a virtual tent city to celebrate the return of the event and cheer on their friends and family in this highly competitive, but good-natured event. As luck would have it a fine south swell squeezed through the neighboring islands blessing the event with epic conditions which only improved throughout the day. The event welcomed 220 entries in 15 divisions, and competitors were given ample opportunity to nose ride, carve, and “shoot the puka” into the lagoon in hopes of etching their names in the prized “Ole” perpetual trophies.

We spoke with a lifelong “Ole” competitor who was able to mark her name in the perpetual trophy for the first time, 2024 Open Women's Champion Lara Claydon.

Mau AhHee
Lara Claydon

Ole Longboard Classic

FreeSurf - You’ve won other divisions before, but what does it feel like to win the coveted Open Division for the first time?

Lara - The “Ole” is a really special event, but it is very competitive as well because you get your name on the trophy and so it's kind of like royalties for you for the year. This is my first time winning the Open Women's and it's been a joke of a rivalry between me and Tasha Jahrmarkt. For the last three years she's won and I've taken 2nd and I was like, “You know what? This is the year I'm taking you out.” (laughs)

The level of longboarding on Maui, especially the girls right now, is crazy. It's fun to have that kind of competitive side between all of us girls. But after I won, they all were like, “Gosh, finally, like it took you long enough.” (laughs)

FreeSurf - Describe the conditions for this year's event?

Lara - It was so perfect. Throughout the day the waves just kind of filled in and the conditions got better. It glassed off for most of the day and everyone was so stoked because they were able to really showcase their surfing

FreeSurf - We’re so sorry to hear, but your family was one of the families that lost their property, correct?

Lara - Yeah, it's been a rough go, but we're doin good. And honestly, my family, we're very grateful. There's friends of mine that have lost way more than we did. We were able to find somewhere up in Haiku. As gnarly as it was, the trauma, I think it was a form of bonding for all of us. We've been able to walk through it all together.

FreeSurf - What is special about the Ole Longboard Classic, especially in light of all that has happened in the last year?

Scotty Fong

Ole Longboard Classic

Lara - I've been on the mainland, and I flew back specifically for the event. And to be here, it was really fulfilling. I don't know, it just kind of made me speechless to kind of see everybody that I hadn't seen in a while. Everyone's so scattered now over the island because they’ve been displaced

The “Ole” is the event that the whole Maui longboard surf community shows up for, from all over the island. It brings everybody together. Even people who aren't competing. We have family friends that come down, for example, and it's a tradition they come down and watch the “Ole.” They love Kim and Hi-Tech and everyone that's there. It is a really special event.

To see everybody gathered for that day was honestly overwhelming. I loved every second of it, but there were definitely times that I was overwhelmed because you just knew everybody at the beach. You’d surf your heat and you come out and you're talking story and hanging out with everybody. It was just like what I grew up with. And to have that kind of just be in a way - normal. Everyone was so joyful and stoked to see each other instead of mourning and grieving, but more like, ‘Oh my gosh, how are you? How are you doing?’ And kind of connecting over the craziness that we've all kind of been through throughout the year.

Sponsors: Hi-Tech Surf Sports, Katin, Olukai, Da Kitchen

Results

#2798-Scotty Wong, Open Men #1917-Lara Claydon, Open Women #1949-Reilly McCook, 19-29 #2215-Cash Hoover, Junior Girls #2634-Bella Kuailani, Junior Women #1735-Harry Timmins, 70 & over

#2430-Eric Casco, 40-49

#2850-Mau Ah Hee, 30-39

GOOD NEWS!

THE “COOL” SMELL OF THE SEA

A very common and abundant algae, Pelagophyceae, has been found to produce gases which help heal our biosphere. A salt metabolite known to most as the ‘smell of the seaside’ contributes to cooling the earth. This finding from the University of East Anglia means that exponentially more of this valuable climate-active gas is created than previously supposed, supporting microbes in regulating global climate. It can also better understanding and prediction of brown tides by predicting the behavior of algae.

ANOTHER FUNGI JOINS THE PARTY

A short list of only four species of fungi known to break down and consume plastic is joined by a fifth. Royal Netherlands Institute for Sea Research findings show it breaks down poly-ethylene- the most abundant of all plastics found in the ocean- into harmless amounts of carbon dioxide. Interestingly, the PE is only degradable by the fungus when it has been exposed to UV-light for a short amount of time, a process scientists know degrade plastic, but now, we know it’s a vital first step for the plastics to have been afloat for a time before the fungi can make a meal of it. Yum!

IMMUNE SYSTEM MAXXING: GARDENING

Long thought, often giggled at for being “hippie”, solid evidence from the University of Helsinki now confirms: investing in children's exposure to microbes is incredibly important to the health of their immune systems. It has been shown previously that contact with nature-derived and rich microbe systems benefit the human microbiome and thus, immune system

function. Urban areas known typically as “too clean” and free of beneficial microbes and bacteria are the subject of study. After a month observing the effects of tending to a garden, adults in this study had higher levels of anti-inflammatory proteins in the blood. Adults who interacted with peat, conversely, had no changes or benefits. It is worth noting here that peat is the most widely used growing substrate in the world and the impact of producing it is largely negative. Allergies, asthma and autoimmune diseases may not become active or less acute in children whose immune systems are exposed to a higher diversity of microbial activity.

UNDERGROUND UNDERWATER ECOSYSTEM FOUND

During a landmark expedition in Balboa, Panama, a new ecosystem has been found beneath oceanic hydrothermal vents. Yeah, you read that right: an entire ecosystem underneath the ocean floor that was totally unknown to science. Following an investigative experiment looking for rarely seen juvenile tubeworms, scientists used an underwater robot to lift plates of volcanic crust on the East Pacific Rise, at a site called the Fava Flow Suburbs, near the Tica Vent: to reveal cavernous systems, literal hotbeds harboring teeming numbers of worms, snails, and bacteria, oozing with life. Hydrothermal vents have been studied for the last forty-seven years. These rich ecologies function

much like hot springs, flowing through cracks that form in the earth’s crust. Scientists hypothesized that these creatures travel beneath the earth’s surface in vent fluids to build new communities. When a new vent appears, ecosystems seem to build incredibly quickly, sometimes in the space of a few years. How young and larval animals got there was previously a mystery. However, this stunning discovery brings into scene a startling concern regarding deep sea drilling impacts. Results of their experiments are being further studied.

Treat yourself

HONOLULU

SURF FILM FESTIVAL

After a two-year hiatus, the Honolulu Surf Film Festival returns fully in-person to the Doris Duke Theatre for its 14th edition. Gather together to watch a robust lineup that includes shorts and features showcasing waves big and small from near and far.

The festival kicks off with an opening reception and screening of Searching for Tom Curren on Thursday followed by the Surf Aloha Concert on Saturday featuring Landon McNamara on HoMA’s Central Courtyard stage. The festival closes out on July 30 with a special afternoon screening of Surfing the 50’s followed by a talk story panel of local legends honoring Joey Cabell.

Thank you to all who attended this year’s festival! The 14th edition is now over and we are excited to announce our award winners:

Audience Choice: Best Feature Surf Nation

Directed by Jessica Q. Chen and Jeremiah M. Bogert Jr. 2022. USA. 88 min.

Audience Choice: Best Short Beyond Sunset

Directed by Keith Malloy. 2023. Hawai‘i. 25 min.

Jury Award Through the Doggy Door

Directed by Joe Alani. 2022. Hawai‘i. 90 min.

KNOW YOUR LIMITS!

Experiencing pain during physical activities could indicate a spinal problem.

You used to surf all the time, whether it was for exercise or or just hanging with your friends in the ocean. Now, even enjoying just a few waves is something that bothers you and the recurring inflammation is prompting you to paddle out less or worse discontinue your favorite sport. You simply wish to avoid back pain. While it’s hard enough to say goodbye to activities you once enjoyed, the issue is also preventing you from getting everyday chores done around the house.

Everything is connected to your spine. It serves as the foundation for your entire musculoskeletal structure, so it’s little wonder that when there's a problem anywhere along your spine, it can have a big impact. Your spine is divided into five sections: Cervical spine (neck), Thoracic spine (mid back), Lumbar spine (lower back), Sacrum and Coccyx.

No matter where a problem in your spine develops, you can feel the effects in other parts of your body. Even a seemingly small issue along your spine, such as a herniated/ bulging disc, can lead to side effects that can bench you from the activities you enjoy. If you’ve developed some limitations while getting physical, we want you to note these, as they can point us toward the culprit. Once you identify

the spine issue, this is the first step toward helping you find relief so you can get back to the active life you enjoy. Athletes need to understand that there are options such as neuromodulation therapies and artificial disc replacement and other minimally invasive decompressive procedures that can be done. The approach to the treatment of spinal disorders when it comes to physically active individuals focuses on motion preservation. Historically, treatment of spinal disc degeneration used to be fairly invasive. Nowadays there are a myriad of treatment options ranging from individually tailored physical therapy and precision interventional pain management procedures, to artificial disc replacement and even neuromodulation therapies which allow for muscle regeneration. The key point to understand here is that while there are many modalities to treat your spinal issue, it's important to be evaluated by an experienced and knowledgeable surgeon who regularly utilizes a multitude of treatment modalities to precisely help his/her patients. People from all walks of life are affected by degenerative changes in the spine and it's important to choose a doctor with a skillset, knowledge, and experience to diagnose and effectively treat each of his patients to ensure that they return to a lifestyle without restrictions. To overcome your spine issue and get back in the game, contact me or a trusted doctor for a consultation.

2024 HALEIWA ARTS FESTIVAL

Celebrating

6 DAYS A WEEK!

“Board Stories” can be seen in Hawai'i on Spectrum OC16 on Ch. 16/1016 and Spectrum Surf Channel Ch. 20/1020. Spectrum OC16’s live stream is available on oc16.tv and the Spectrum TV app (to Spectrum customers in Hawai'i only), and nationally to any Spectrum customer on the Spectrum News mobile app and CTV app on Roku and Apple TV.

Dds, Llc
John Jones & Patrick Ferguson
Surf with a smile!
Haven Ingbino Francisco

STUFF WE LIKE

Living In Sunshine / The Spirit Rack

Explore LISS's Spirit Rack: a sustainable vertical stand for 3-4 surfboards with fins or 6-8 without, crafted from eco-friendly materials. It features a convenient gear drawer, tool-free assembly, and stylish home integration. With a one-year warranty and 30-day returns, it's perfect for surfers looking to organize and display their boards effortlessly. livinginsunshine.com

Over Under / Explorer Set

The Ulua series is catered to the adult adventurer with a focus on comfort and style. Enjoy the underwater beauty this summer with one of eight fashionably colored masks. overunder.fun

Coconut Smuggler’s Pre and Post Surf Hair Products

Embrace your inner beach bum with Coconut Smuggler’s Pre and Post Surf Hair Products. Crafted by an ocean loving hairstylist, our reef-friendly, natural formula keeps your hair and skin hydrated in the salt. With eco-friendly packaging and a scent that’s pure beach bliss, it's the perfect companion for those who live life on the water. Protect your hair. Protect the reef. Smell like a beach dream.

Red Bull Sugarfree

Red Bull is expanding its offerings in their zero-sugar lineup, launching two new Red Bull Sugarfree Editions. The Red Bull Red Edition Sugarfree with the taste of watermelon and the Red Bull Amber Edition Sugarfree with the taste of strawberry apricot will join the original Red Bull Sugarfree and Red Bull Zero in this expansion of zero sugar options. These new offerings with the same wiiings of Red Bull Energy Drink but without the sugar, are now available nationwide.

Matahi Drollet is quite possibly the best surfer ever at Teahupo'o in Tahiti. The new generation of surfers are all the kids that grew up there fearlessly surfing in a chaotic yet controlled atmosphere. Riding these waves and getting in these situations to the mere mortal would be terrifying but they’re right at home and excel in the heaviest of situations. Photo Brian Bielmann

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