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John John Florence, 2020 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Men's Champion Photo: Brian Bielmann

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F R E E

P A R K I N G

The stage is set. Pipeline, pre-dawn.

Photo: Brent Bielmann

TA B L E

O F

C O N T E N T S

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Free Parking

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Editor's Note

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VTCS Champions

22

VTCS Filmers

32

Torrey Meister

34

Zoe McDougall

38

VTCS Spot Check

58

Dane Gudauskas

60

Stuff We Like

62

Industry Notes

64

Ben Aipa

66

Last Look

Photo: Brent Bielmann

V O L U M E

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Editorial Publisher

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FREESURF MAGAZINE is distributed at all Jamba Juice locations, most fine surf shops and select specialty stores throughout Hawai‘i, Southern California, and the East Coast. Subscribe at freesurfmagazine.com Other than “Free Postage” letters, we do not accept unsolicited editorial submissions without first establishing contact with the editor. FreeSurf, Manulele Inc. and its associates are not responsible for lost, stolen or damaged submissions or their return.

One-way correspondence can be sent to P.O. Box 1161, Hale‘iwa, HI 96712 E-mail editorial inquiries to info@freesurfmagazine.com A product of Manulele, Inc. 2020

E D I T O R ' S

N O T E

CHAMPIONS IN ISOLATION

By Andrew Oliver

Photo: Brent Bielmann

When a tree falls in the woods with no one around to hear it, does it make a sound?

antithetical to what for some, borders on an artistic, nay, near-religious pursuit. But as Orson Welles, the iconic filmmaker and one of the greatest artists of the 20th century once said, “The enemy of art is the absence of limitations.”

It is this commonly recounted parable that has passed through the ages, essentially asking if existence relies solely on the human perception of it. As the argument goes, a sound does not exist without our hearing of it. In the currency of our modern surfing-world, does a wave un-filmed count as being surfed? On the North Shore, probably not. For this year’s Van’s Digital Triple Crown of Surfing, definitely not.

There is no doubt that the competitive arena has done more to drive performance and innovation than any other facet of surfing. It is the fact that these super-human competitors are able to perform to such heights, in the face of what many of us would consider crippling constraints, that makes their accomplishments so other-worldly. But, what would happen if those constraints were to suddenly disappear?

Unless you’ve been marooned on a tropical cay, blissfully ignorant to the events of the past year, you are well-aware that a global pandemic has upended nearly every facet of normalcy. It should be of no surprise that surf contests were an easy target for disruption. Thankfully, Vans and the WSL came up with a creative solution to the logistical challenges of our new reality by having the Vans Triple Crown go digital.

Competitors had over three weeks to submit video clips of their two best waves from each of the three jewels of the crown - Haleʻiwa, Sunset, and Pipeline. The WSL judges then reviewed the footage and declared which of the women and which of the men surfed them best.

Winners were awarded per surf spot, and whoever had the overall best results earned the title of Vans Triple Crown Champion.

This season provided the answer, as a result of the restrictions of the pandemic, came one of the most unrestricted surf events ever put forward at scale. During a month of some of the best surf the North Shore has seen in years, die-hard competitors, local up-starts, and alternative-craft aficionados were set free in an event that had just one requirement - for them to surf their brains out.

Oh, and to bring back proof.

Because if a wave is surfed in the Vans Digital Triple Crown, with no one around to film it, does it get a score?

From competitive surfing’s inception, one critique has persisted pure surfing cannot be bound by rules. It is argued that time clocks, rulebooks, advancing rounds, and the other competitive constraints run

No!

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CHAMPIONS CROWNED You could not have scripted a better run of waves for the first ever digital version of the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing.

All three venues were blessed with a seemingly endless stretch of idyllic swell and conditions, setting the stage for groundbreaking performances being logged on a daily basis. The sheer volume of epic rides made clear that the bar to be crowned the 2020 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing was set exceedingly high. So, it’s no surprise that two of the best surfers of their generation found their way to the top.

Carissa Moore and John John Florence are the 2020 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Champions

John John Florence Men’s 2020 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Champion In the very opening days of the waiting period, John John registered one of the most commanding performances in recent memory in colossal Hale’iwa surf. From there, the preternatural talent never looked back. Working his way down the coast, John John continued his unparalleled assault, laying the groundwork for what will surely go down in surf history as one of the most remarkable extended displays of surfing ever displayed. He was truly in the zone.

Carissa Moore Women’s 2020 Vans Triple Crown of Surfing Champion When the Maui Womens Pro made the unprecedented decision to finish at Pipe, Carissa Moore seamlessly shifted gears into Banzai mode and she was the form surfer at Pipe. As is the nature of traditional comps, it only matters who was best in the last heat of the event. Moore finished runner-up. Perhaps the sting of defeat helped fuel her fire in the Vans Triple Crown, or perhaps the freedom of the event format matched what was there all along. Moore was unquestionably the surfer of the season, and the rightful champion.

The Breakdown A unique year called for a radical change! In response, Vans was proud to reveal a historic evolution of the prestigious Vans Triple Crown of Surfing event series. Launched on December 21, 2020, the Vans Triple Crown of Surfing’s official contest format transformed into an innovative, digital, free surf competition experience.

Sanctioned by the World Surf League as a specialty digital event, the 2020 Vans Triple Crown returned to the fabled North Shore in Hawaii as an open, submission-based competition, hosted entirely online at vanstriplecrownofsurfing. com. The event ran for four weeks from December 21, 2020 – January 19, 2021, honoring winning titles for the Hawaiian Pro in Haleiwa, the Vans World Cup at Sunset Beach, and Pipe. The 2020 Vans Triple Crown series expanded the field to welcome men and women contenders from around the world to prove their talent in Hawaii by submitting their best waves for judging consideration.

Featuring the three iconic surf breaks of the North Shore—Haleiwa, Sunset, and Pipeline—125 eligible men and women competitors submitted footage of their best two (2) individual waves from each break, for a total of six (6) waves. With a total prize purse of $200,000 up for grabs, men and women winners were crowned for each event, with the overall Triple Crown title awarded to the surfers that earned top scores from all three breaks combined.

John John Florence, Hale’iwa. Photo: Brian Bielmann

Carissa Moore, Sunset. Photo: Brian Bielmann

T H E R E ' S

N O

“ I ”

I N

T E A M ,

B U T

T H E R E

I S

I N

F I L M E R .

Surfing is one of the ultimate individualist pursuits, as is surf videography. But, the two maintain a symbiotic relationship. A fact that’s never been truer than during this year’s digital Vans Triple Crown of Surfing, where scoring of the surfer’s waves was completely dependent on it being captured and submitted on video. Here are a handful of the filmmakers who spend countless hours on the beach, to bring you all of the incredible surf action to your eyeballs.

ZOARD JANKO

Nathan Florence, Backdoor. Framegrab by Zoard Janko

Years Shooting: professionally for about 3 years, but I’ve always had some sort of cheap camera since middle school shooting random things of friends mostly skating

Who do you normally shoot: Nathan Florence Favorite person to shoot: Nathan Florence Who have you been shooting with during this Triple Crown: Nathan Florence

First Camera: ahh I don’t even remember what exactly it was but it was one of those little point and shoot cameras

Which surfers have submitted your clips: Nathan Florence

Current Camera Set-up: Canon 1DXMII Other filmers that inspire you: Erik Knutson for sure he’s a wizard.

Have you provided any advice/strategy to the surfers you're shooting with: I tell Nate to catch the good waves

Describe your “dream day” filming: Hahah my dream day filming would be going skydiving in the morning and surfing in the afternoon

Which surfers have impressed you during this Triple Crown, Why?: Nate’s late pipe drops and John Johns rail game at Haleiwa

What’s the worst thing someone has told you when you missed their clip: I’ve never missed a important clip but Nate loves to threaten loss of limbs

Best thing you’ve personally filmed during this years Triple Crown: Nate’s backdoor entry was a nuts one

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Keanu Asing

Tropicamo

Makaha

KALANI MINIHAN

Crosby Colapinto, Hale’iwa. Framegrab by Kalani Minihan

Years Shooting: 8

Who have you been shooting with during this Triple Crown: Mainly Wyatt, Crosby, and Jett

First Camera: Canon 40D Current Camera Set-up: Panasonic Gh5 & Canon 5D mark IV Other filmers that inspire you: Tom Jennings, Chris Bryan, & Kai Neville Describe your “dream day” filming: Perfect sandbar peelers with no one but the pals out is a good one. I also wouldn’t mind a substantial downpour for effect.

What’s the worst thing someone has told you when you missed their clip: I wouldn’t know, I don’t miss clips.

Who do you normally shoot: It differentiates throughout the year but Wyatt Mchale, Jett Schilling, Crosby Colapinto, and Eli Hanneman lately.

Favorite person to shoot: On small days I try to make time shooting my girlfriend Marissa

Which surfers have submitted your clips: All of the above, but I’ve sent a few clips here and there to others.

Have you provided any advice/strategy to the surfers you're shooting with: “Have a great time” is the only thing I’ll usually say before they paddle out.

Which surfers have impressed you during this Triple Crown, Why?: I would say Wyatt and Crosby because they’re pushing to make the most out of this. they’ve put in some hours and I can see how hungry they are. I’ve also been shooting Malia Manuel on a few occasions and her style and surfing surprises me more and more. I wouldn’t be surprised if she wins.

Best thing you’ve personally filmed during this year's Triple Crown: I filmed Keala Kennelly's barrel in Haleiwa a couple weeks ago and it was one of the gnarliest things I’ve seen.

Thoughts on the Digital Triple Crown: I think the sickest entries are of the guys that are using unconventional boards as entries. Such as Cliff Kapono using an alaia at sunset and Dana Gadauskas using a twin fin fish at bombing haleiwa. This gives surfers the opportunity to be creative in a competitive standpoint. This also gives the filmers some work, it’s almost like the QS for filmers. I’ve seen the boys put in some

MIKE CHLALA

Brodi Sale, Backdoor. Framegrab by Mike Chlala

Name: Mike Chlala @chlala_shoots

Favorite person to shoot: Everyone. You can learn so much from their different styles and approach to surfing, variety is the spice of life!

Years Shooting: 10 First Camera: Old cheap canon camcorder

Who have you been shooting with during this Triple Crown: Brodi Sale, Torrey Meister.

Current Camera Set-up: Canon 1dx mark iii with 100–400mm lens.

Which surfers have submitted your clips: Brodi, Torrey

Other filmers that inspire you: All the ones that came before, even if they’re younger than me.

Have you provided any advice/strategy to the surfers you're shooting with: No way, they’re on it, I’m the one fortunate enough to be taking notes.

Describe your “dream day” filming: Shoot the A-listers, go surfing, eat, repeat What’s the worst thing someone has told you when you missed their clip: It’s nothing but love, everyone's doing their best, both surfers and filmers/photographers. Love the work ethic in our community.

Who do you normally shoot: Brodi Sale and co.

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NICHOLAS CRIBBS

Zoe McDougall, Hale’iwa. Framegrab by Nicholas Cribbs

Years Shooting: 4 First Camera: Sony a600

Who do you normally shoot: I regularly shoot surf, usually drone or in the water but lately I’ve been using my 400mm to shoot from land.

Current Camera Set-up: Canon R5, my “go-to” lens is my 28-70 2.0 above water and in water my 50mm 1.2.

Have you provided any advice/strategy to the surfers you're shooting with: Nope, I can barely swim.

Other filmers that inspire you: Brian Daniel has always been an inspiration for me. His work is adventurous and utilizes very creative aspects when shooting. My wife, Sciorra has also helped me to be more mindful and creative when shooting lifestyle pictures & videos.

Which surfers have impressed you during this Triple Crown, Why?: Zoe for sure. She’s been at it 3-5 hours a day, every day so far. She’s here to win!

Best thing you’ve personally filmed during this years Triple Crown: Zoe going big at Sunset during some bombs.

Describe your “dream day” filming: My dream day of filming, sunrise shoot on the eastside followed by underwater shoot on the westside and then to Waikiki to capture the surfers at Queens.

What’s the worst thing someone has told you when you missed their clip: hasn’t happened yet, I rarely take my eye off the viewfinder when filming.

Who have you been shooting with during this Triple Crown: Zoe McDougall Which surfers have submitted your clips: Zoe McDougall, Coco Ho & Stephanie Gilmore

Thoughts on the Digital Triple Crown: It’s an awesome opportunity for surfers to showcase what they can do when surfing without the immediate pressure of their waves being scored.

Favorite person to shoot: Definitely my wife, Sciorra Anne Cribbs

SARAH LEE

Dane Gudauskas, Sunset. Framegrab by Sarah Lee

Years Shooting: 12

Who have you been shooting with during this Triple Crown: Dane Gudauskas

First Camera: Canon 7D Current Camera Set-up: Canon 5D MKIV + Sigma 60-600

Which surfers have impressed you during this Triple Crown, Why?: Malia Manuel has gotten some really impressive rides out at Sunset! That wave sure isn’t easy to surf smoothly and she’s managed to make it look really smooth and fun out there.

Other filmers that inspire you: Tahnei Roy Describe your “dream day” filming: My dream day would be getting to film a glassy XXL day at an outer reef in the morning, then filming the rest of the afternoon at Pipe when it’s super golden.

Best thing you’ve personally filmed during this year's Triple Crown: Dane on his 4’2” Donald Brink board at Sunset! That board is such a trip and it was even more of a trip to see him out there next to guys with boards double that size.

What’s the worst thing someone has told you when you missed their clip: I don’t think I’ve blown it on anything significant during this event yet, so I’ll let you know what happens when I do.

Who do you normally shoot: I usually just do photos in the water and shoot a bunch of different loggers!

Favorite person to shoot: Cliff Kapono

Have you provided any advice/strategy to the surfers you're shooting with: For the Vans Digital Triple Crown event, it’s been more about me being ready and able to set up wherever the surfer wants to go out!

Which surfers have submitted your clips: Dane Gudauskas, Kirra Seale 30

Thoughts on the Digital Triple Crown: I think it’s a rad idea to make the Triple Crown digital this year! I’m just stoked for the opportunity to work with surfers to film clips for them to enter.

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Torrey Meister, the local postmaster - always sending it!

Photo: Brian Bielmann

TORREY MEISTER

ALL IN.

By Andrew Oliver

riginally from the Big Island, Torrey Meister has been residing in Sunset Beach for half his life now, and is proud to call the North Shore home.

Torrey’s surfing is absolutely defined by commitment. Whether it's paddling into bombs at Jaws, freefalling into Backdoor caverns, or his explosive small wave game, Torrey is a standout in all conditions and one of the most widelyrespected among his peers. The Vans Digital Triple Crown seemed like an event tailor-made to his surfing, so we caught up to hear his thoughts on the unique event.

What did you think about the digital format for this year's Vans Triple Crown?

With COVID and everything the way it is, it made a lot of sense. And, after doing it, I thought, wow, we should have been doing this for years.

During the normal event everyone is surfing hard, but they're kind of taking it easy at the same time.

Between their heats, they’ll be trying out boards, kind of just getting the feeling of the spots, but not really going for it 100%. Whereas in this event, it’s just freesurfing, so they're going as hard as they can. They have all the time to do it, not just for 30 minutes in a jersey.

One of the things I really like about the event is the more time you spend in the water, the better clips you get. So it makes it a little more blue-collar, and I like that. Haha.

I hope it's something we do every year.

From a local’s perspective, do you think this format favored the locals, or do you think it leveled the playing field?

The normal Triple Crown favors the locals a bit more. If you’re a local, you have that local knowledge, you've been surfing those waves your whole life.

Whereas with this freesurf format, I feel like it just favors everyone. It makes you surf those waves. You know, I didn’t surf Rocky Point once during the waiting period. And, you get better the more time you put in. When it comes to surfing a normal heat, so many things can affect the outcome, and then that's the end of it. With this

you can just keep surfing.

What was a moment from the event that really stuck out for you?

Seeing John John surf Hale’iwa was pretty incredible. Having him come back from that gnarly injury and then just put on the performance that he did out there. I mean, he put on a clinic at Hale’iwa.

It raised the level for everyone.

Is there someone who really impressed or surprised you in the Vans Triple Crown?

For sure. Brodi Sales, I thought he did really well this year. He had some really good backdoor waves. He's really young and I've kind of watched him grow up to be what he's becoming. And, I was really excited with his surfing this year. I thought he really pushed hard and tried hard and charged a couple of crazy waves and that was really exciting to see. As far as rookies go, I would say Brodi impressed me the most.

How good were the waves for the waiting period?

Yeah. We, we frigging scored! It was nonstop. The first couple of weeks was some of the better Hale’iwa I’ve surfed in a long time.

And, to be honest, if it wasn’t for the event I probably would have been surfing Pipe, but I’m so stoked I got to enjoy those sessions. But, all three waves really lit up for us, which was a huge blessing. I think it just means we should do this every year. Haha I know everyone was so surfed out from these marathon sessions, thankfully, it sounds like no one really got too hurt. In your case, you really paid the price in boards.

How many boards did you go through by the end?

Six, I think, haha. If you're doing it right, you're surfing more than you normally would. And, obviously that’s gonna take a huge tax on your boards. I had five or six days straight when I broke one everyday.

It was pretty funny, last year, I think I broke one board all year.

But, I was definitely going for it way harder. And, that just comes with the territory.

VA N S T R I P L E C R O W N T H R E AT / R A N K I N G S L E A D E R

ZOE MCDOUGALL

By Shannon Reporting

Zoe McDougall. Photo: Brian Bielmann

atching the women back in the competitive mix on the Seven Mile Miracle brings up childhood nostalgia for Sunset Local, 21-year-old Zoe McDougall, who recalls the days when the pioneers of women’s surfing inspired and wow-ed the crowd at Sunset Beach. Zoe and her mother have been vocal figures in the fight for more women’s events in the Hawaiian Islands.

What were your goals going into the VTCS, and how does your competitive strategy differ given clips are filmed during freesurfing?

ZM: My goal, of course, is to win the overall prize and to show everyone my best surfing in the allotted competition period. The Triple Crown title is so respected in surfing; it's the next best thing to a world title. It would be insane to be a Triple Crown champ. I think that the strategy is very different because we have almost a month to compete instead of 30-minute heats, in which we are safety surfing and watching the clock. This way we get to surf how we surf when we are relaxed (for the most part). It's also cool to have the website and get to watch everyone's submissions. That really makes it feel like a contest!

When Vans announced that women would be competing in the digital Triple Crown, it marked a turning point for girls like Zoe, who’s family worked together with advocates for women’s surfing to demand change.The moment she heard the good news, it was game on. After the first round of scoring, local knowledge had put her ahead of the pack in her efforts to fulfill her dream to win a Vans Triple Crown of Surfing championship.

My personal strategy could have been thought through a little better. I sprinted for the entire marathon. I have been going so hard and surfing more than ever doing 6 and 8 hour days almost every day. My body is so beat! [Laughs] I’m covered in cuts and bruises, but it's the best feeling... I just want to finish this event knowing I gave it everything I had.

What was your initial reaction when you heard that women would be included?

Zoe McDougall: When I first heard there was a digital Vans Triple Crown, I was like, ‘Wow that’s really cool. I wonder if I should just enter for fun!’ thinking it was only for men as it normally has been the past few years, and then I was over at the Ho family house one evening.

Coco and I were just scrolling through Instagram or whatever and I saw the entry video for the VTCS. So, I asked Mason [Ho] if he entered yet and Mason was like, ‘I’m pretty sure there is a women’s division; you girls need to enter!” I immediately got so excited and signed up right there in their kitchen! It gave me such a rush to find out that I was going to have the opportunity to compete right here at home, something I have been dreaming of my entire life!

Which of the three venues do you enjoy surfing the most: Haleʻiwa, Sunset, or Pipe? Which wave plays to your strengths?

ZM: I love them all! I definitely feel the most confident at Haleʻiwa and Sunset. I have been surfing both those waves my entire life and have put in a lot of hours at each over the winters. Haleʻiwa is one of my favorite waves, but Sunset is really special to me. Most times I am out there it's with my dad since it's his favorite spot, so that’s really cool. It's kind of where we go and hangout! I’ll surf Haleʻiwa and Sunset at any

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Maldives Zoe McDougall. Photo: Brian Bielmann size and still feel comfortable, but I don’t have that same relationship with Pipe yet. I love surfing Backdoor… so I can’t wait to step outside of my comfort zone.

How could this digital platform open opportunities for more female surfers, given local contestants can surf from home without all the overseas travel and financial strain?

ZM: The digital platform is so awesome, and the first of many that we will see in the future. I think that this is a great new form of competing that still gives us so much opportunity. I am really excited because this is the first time that I have gotten to compete at home on the North Shore in a few years. Usually I have to fly halfway across the world to learn a whole new break, but now I’m at my home court, not to mention how expensive all the travel is... It's so nice to know that there is only money to gain right now. I'm not thinking about how much I have spent on the event, which is always an added pressure.

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How can the surf community support gender equality?

ZM: Surfing has come so far in the last couple of years. It's amazing to see! I think that what I would love to see here in Hawaiʻi is more events for women. We are happy and willing to surf anywhere, we just want to have more opportunity, and regional events. There are so many good girls coming out of Hawaiʻi; it would be rad to have more events here.

Did you consider the inclusion of women in the prestigious Billabong Pipe Masters event to be a victory for women's surfing?

ZM: I think that the girls did a great job on such short notice. Everyone had been practicing at long right-handers for months to prepare for Honolua Bay, but then they ended up at Pipe which is such a different ballgame. I was really inspired by Carissa Moore's waves. I think her knowledge of the break, paired with her talent, really shined. I think bringing the girls back to the North Shore is a major victory that I have been waiting on my entire life. I grew up watching the women compete in the Triple Crown at Sunset and Haleʻiwa and always dreamed that it would come back one day, so hopefully this is one step closer to that!

What do you hope to see in 2021?

ZM: I hope to see more peace, prosperity, health, and hugs in 2021. I think 2020 was a demanding year for everyone with lots of change and uncertainty, but I think great things are in store for everyone. It's been a great winter so far and I’m sure it will be a great year!

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HALEIWA Just a few days into the Vans Digital Triple Crown waiting period, and the first huge swell popped up and excitement levels were high. As usual, most headed to Pipe or Sunset first. But, the swell proved too big, with both breaks washed out, leaving Hale’iwa as the only option. It too was close to maxing out, and as of 8:00am no one had paddle out. Fifteen minutes later a small crew, led by former CTer Tommy Whitaker, and consisting of Griffin Colapinto, Conner Coffin and a few others decided to have a go. Slingshot into the takeoff zone by the notorious Hale’iwa current, the boys got their first waves in no time, and proved it was indeed the spot of the day.

Over the next eight hours a majority of the entrants would make their mark on what would prove to be one of the most impressive days of surfing to ever go down at Hale’iwa.

Fan Voting Male Winner, Jack Robinson, a standout among giants on the “day of days” at Hale’iwa.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

HALE’IWA NEARLY KILLED THE VIDEO STAR

By Andrew Oliver

Photos: Oliver

One of the best aspects of this year’s digital event was that it drew the talent beyond “team house row” between Off-the-Wall and Pipe. In recent generations, iconic powerhouse spots like Sunset and Hale’iwa have been relegated to supporting roles, with Pipe and Backdoor playing center stage. The intense short rides on offer at the notorious peak complimented the fast-paced, highrisk to high-reward style of surfing that has been at the forefront the last few decades.

Compounding this trend, has been the simple fact that most people tend to surf what is right in front of them. With nearly every major surf brand warehousing their local and international talent in the luxury homes that line the beach at Pipe, where do you expect them to surf?

However, the lure of Vans Triple Crown glory, and a dream run of swell, had the surf-elite all too happy to reacquaint themselves with the forgotten gems of the North Shore. And this season, through a historic run of waves,

it could easily be argued that Hale’iwa shined the brightest.

There we’re days upon days of surf, many of which us mere mortals would have considered too-big and too-north for Hale’iwa, but for the world’s best it just meant more opportunities to go bigger and gnarlier.

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traight out of the gates John John Florence submitted a clip from Hale’iwa that nearly broke the internet. Taking off as far out and deep as you possibly could, on what could easily be judged to be a solid 12-ft set. Straight off the drop, John fired off one of his trademark full-face carves, and without a millisecond of hesitation, rocketed himself into a cavernous tube that could rival any found at his beloved Backdoor. Punctuating the ride with a full-extended layback slash in the Toilet Bowl, John set the bar exceedingly high, earning a score of 29.4 out of 30 on his very first submission.

The truly remarkable thing about John’s

Parker Coffin, Joel Centeio, Conner Coffin, and Kelly Slater. Photo: Oliver

Leonardo Fioravanti. Photo: Brian Bielmann

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The Kaua’i native and WCT veteran, Malia Manuel, made her way to the North Shore earlier than most this season. Come time for the Vans Triple Crown, the extra time on the 7-mile miracle proved worth it. Without fail, Manuel was a standout everytime she paddled out.

Photo: Brian Bielmann ride, and Hale’iwa in general, is there’s just no way for video to do it justice. In John’s case, the whitewater from the first wave in the set obscured the bottom third of his ride - essentially shrinking the wave height for the viewer. Also, video doesn’t account for the notorious Hale’iwa current (which was dialed-up to 11 on most days), the clean-up sets (which rightfully strike fear deep in the hearts of anyone that’s been caught inside at Hale’iwa before), and the incredible challenge of positioning yourself among this chaos and the fortitude it demands to stay within the line of fire and pick off a bomb. Despite all of this being absent from the clip, John’s wave left the social media community collectively floored.

It’s crazy to think, his wave was about twice as heavy in real life as it appeared on screen. nother ride that put this well into perspective was one of Keala Kennelly’s Hale’iwa submissions - an absolute beast she caught on a day that was so big it was borderline unrideable. Braving the deadly Hale’iwa cauldron, Keala snagged one of the biggest waves submitted in the entire event.

Rolling in from way outside and fearlessly pulling in where most would be scrambling towards an exit. Unfortunately, Keala did not find the exit herself, but not really due to any fault of her own. The wave was so big it essentially closed in on itself. The fact she even went on it and packed such a crazy barrel is worthy of hero-status in itself.

These are just two of the dozens of incredible rides submitted throughout the event.

Hale’iwa may have been somewhat forgotten in recent years, but through the sessions that went down this season the wave let itself be known as one of the gnarliest and most challenging performance big waves on the planet. And, we’ve got the video to prove it.

It’s a shame the Vans Digital Triple Crown is limited to two waves per spot. If there was an award for most waves surfed excellently this season Griffin Colapinto would be the hands down winner. From sun-up to sun-down Colapinto took every opportunity to destroy any wave in sight.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

Final Haleiwa Results Haleiwa Male Winner

John Florence

Haleiwa Female Winner

Carissa Moore

Sunset Beach, Hi-Fi Haven?

By Andrew Oliver

Without question, the conditions set the tone for a surf event. Of the three venues for the Vans Digital Triple Crown, this is especially true of Sunset Beach. Breaking far out at sea with the wave zone stretching across several hundred yards, Sunset is left vulnerable to the effects of the wind, swell height and direction. It can be a bucking bronco of a ride, challenging even the most powerful of surfers to tame it. The size of the lineup, the current, and the power of the beatdowns do not lend well to the restraints of a traditional heat, where you’re required to catch at least two waves in a half-hour (or less).

Photo: Brian Bielmann

Surprisingly, this season, while most sessions at Haleʻiwa found the conditions teetering on the edge of a full-boil, Sunset locked into a “Groundhog Day” repeat, offering seemingly endless days of perfectly groomed, and fairly-sizeable waves. Optimally fashioned to how the modern greats approach the spot - which is defined by focusing on the most critical last two-thirds of the wave, riding as short of a board as possible, and attacking the wave with a reckless abandon generally reserved for waves a fraction of Sunset’s strength and stature.

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Case in point: the surfing done by local junior charger Luana Silva who, at just 16 years old, is too young to remember much from the last time the women had a Triple Crown event at the break, back in 2010. It’s amazing what frequent exposure to such a challenging wave can do for a young surfer. Silva, who lives just a quick stroll from the famed break, has gained a poise on Sunset’s powerful walls that is generally reserved for surfers much her senior. One of the youngest competitors in the event, Silva casually charged waves double-to-triple overhead, surfing tight in the pocket, and gunning for the lip at every opportunity. Not to be outdone by the young upstart, the rest of the women’s field brought their A-game as well, with Sunset proving to be the most competitive of the three spots for the women’s division.

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SUNSET In the debut episode of the WSL’s new debate format show, Getting Heated, Mick Fanning and Ross Williams were asked if John John Florence is doing the best surfing ever done, right now. An impossible question in a sport that is defined by rapid progression, which Mick was quick to point out as he hailed the peak of Andy and Kelly’s rivalry as an era of the best surfing ever.

Predictably, Ross fell on the other side of things. And, how could you blame him? Ross has been working closely with John for years, and has seen the surfing John has done this season first hand.

At all three of the iconic North Shore breaks, John has redefined what’s possible in absolutely pumping surf and has stitched together a season that will forever be thrown into the debate for greatest of all time.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

Malia Manuel. Photo: Brian Bielmann

Once it became clear that there was no end in sight to the run of excellent surf that graced the waiting period, it was interesting to see how the competitors strategized their sessions.

The unique event became less of a game of chess, than one of attrition. As the broken boards continued to pile up and fatigue set in, most contestants happily powered on, not just for the Vans Triple Crown glory, but genuinely relishing the opportunity to surf firing Sunset. Early points leader and Sunset local, Zoe McDougall kept an ongoing tally on her Instagram of her scrapes and bruises from the endless marathon of surf. Despite accumulating additional aches and pains as the days wore on, McDougall couldn’t resist seeing her homespot on fire and was laying down massive frontside hacks till the bitter end. cDougall’s neighbor from the other side of the bay, Torrey Meister, paid his epic surf tax in fiberglass. Suffering a near-broken board per session ratio, Meister was reduced to dusting off some old-faithfuls from under his house to continue his radical assault on the Sunset peak. With life and limb intact, a couple sacrificial surfboards were a small price to pay for laying down a few of the most aggressive turns of the event - and a legitimate shot at victory.

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Photo: Brian Bielmann

Barron Mamiya, standing tall amid the chaos of the Inside Bowl.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

Sunset hasn’t always been a goofyfooters favorite. But, Yago Dora’s smooth surfing lends itself well to the unpredictable nature of the wave. Dora, form matching form on an absolute gem.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

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In short, Sunset, a spot that normally crushes competitive dreams with impunity, became a performance playground. With the freedom of the digital format, we saw the top-talent clocking in more hours at the famed break than has been seen in generations. It’s no secret that Sunset has long been a polarizing wave, but after this season it’s a safe bet that there are quite a few newly converted to this iconic wave.

Final Sunset Results Sunset Male Winner

John Florence

Sunset Female Winner

Bronte Macaulay

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PIPELINE Kelly Slater’s monumental competitive accomplishments aside, his sustained passion for surfing is a true inspiration. No surfer on the planet has more reason to be jaded, but despite pushing dangerously close to the half-century mark, he shows no signs of losing his grom-like psych for epic surf.

With a season like this, when perfection abounds, Kelly is a fixture in the lineups regularly snagging the wave of the day, like he did here at Pipeline.

Photo: Brent Bielmann

Pressure Drop

By Andrew Oliver

Without hyperbole, Pipeline is in a class of its own, the wave of waves, to which all others are compared. A natural wonder to be sure, but here's a theory, perhaps those clouds of spit that so regularly punctuate the treacherous waves of Pipe and Backdoor, aren't actually beautiful expressions of nature and physics. But maybe they’re a release of pressure, so built up from the intensity of the crowd, the microscopic media focus, the threat and thrill of the wave itself - like that of a tea kettle bouncing on a stove from a full-boil, the compounding pressure needs to find a release.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

Safe to say it’s intense out there.

Before the event kicked off, it looked like this could be the one spot among the three jewels of the Vans Triple Crown where the near month-long waiting period of this year’s digital format may be a disadvantage. Because Pipe never slows down, never gets any less crowded, and never gets easier. At least in a traditional heat, the crowd is cleared.

Fortunately, running contrary to all things 2020, things fell into place nicely for the event. And, if you had one word to describe the waves of the Vans Triple Crown, that would be plentiful. With an abundance of waves being the one thing that can dial the Pipeline pressure cooker down albeit, just a tad - the stars aligned for an epic Pipeline showcase.

One of the great things about this year's event is the women again have their rightful place in the Vans Triple Crown, with Pipeline being added to the schedule for the first time. A long overdue step, that only seems controversial through the outdated patriarchal lens which unfortunately still distorts much of our society. We’ll leave the socio-political critiques for another day, but suffice to say, the women were ripping out there, as they have been for years.

Moana Jones, a clear favorite leading up to the event, used her extensive local experience to

Wyatt McHale. Photo: Brian Bielmann

stylishly weave some fronthand barrels at Pipe. While, her regularfoot competitors like Coco Ho and Carissa Moore, sought out fronthand glory of their own on the Backdoor rights.

In between the A-plus days, where A-list names were threading epic pits with abandon, there were a smattering of sessions where the waves skirted on the realm of out-of-control, which, for those looking to have free reign over an otherwise packed Pipeline lineup was a welcome opportunity. oung local charger Wyatt McHale took full-advantage of one such day, dodging third reef washout sets, from a crossed-up XL swell, in search of a hidden gem. After an hour of playing cat and mouse with the roll-throughs, a break in the sets allowed him to move in on the inside ledge. Perfectly positioned behind the peak, McHale dropped in smoothly, stood tall in a cavernous tube, and despite the chaos and the deadly backwash from the surge of swell, he cleanly exited the pit, and then headed straight to the beach. On shore, still visibly aglow with a mixture of excitement and disbelief, he recounted how he had been drawn out there by seeing the odd right come through and hoped to find one of his own. Upon reaching the lineup, he quickly realized that he had embarked on a fool's errand, “I had basically given

Shion Crawford. Photo: Brent Bielmann

Fan Voting Female Winner, Tatiana Weston-Webb, and the rest of the women’s field jumped at the opportunity to double down on the impressive performances earlier in the season at the wrap-up of the Women’s Maui Pro at Pipe. No facet of surfing has progressed as much as the women have in the last decade. Their increased presence and hard-charging, in lineups like Pipe, are just the latest chapter of that monumental arc.

Tatiana locked in for the long-haul. Photo: Brent Bielmann

John John Florence, Pipeline, it simply doesn't get any better.

Photo: Brent Bielmann

up on the idea of finding a right out there,” he said. In his video submission, you can see a massive set beginning to feather on the outer reef, the onset of extra jump in the swell that would make the feat Mchale just pulled off humanly impossible for the rest of the day.

That’s Pipeline, each ride a saga on its own. And, during this Vans Triple Crown, there were thousands of rides, each a story of glory or defeat. Pages in the voluminous history of the iconic spot.

Final Pipeline Results Pipe Male Winner

John Florence

Pipe Female Winner

Moana Jones Wong No shame in piling on the cliche, but if the best surfer was truly the one having the most fun, there's no doubt Mason Ho’s trophy collection would be unrivaled. When things get heavy at Pipe, Mason always finds a way to keep things light.

Photo: Brian Bielmann

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DANE GUDAU S K A S F

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Which boards have you been riding?

By Andrew Oliver

I have a Ryan Burch, 5’9” Keel twin-fin. The amount of speed and drive that board carries is just unparalleled. Yet, somehow the design allows you to break your line and still be able to maneuver and pivot which I was stoked on. I was riding it at Hale’iwa, and you can cover so much ground on bottomturns, topturns, and really drive to the end section.

That board really allowed me to position behind the bowl for a big bottom turn, and really accelerate around sections faster than I’m used to.

Dane Gudauskas. Photo: Brian Bielmann here exists a certain orthodoxy in the elite realm of competitive surfing.

With the slightest deviance from accepted norms being hyperanalyzed and critiqued.

Surfing on a certain level is defined by risk, so for the topcompetitors it’s all about limiting risk, as opposed to knowingly introducing it. Dane Gudauskas has long freed himself from the confines of competitive

hegemony, and has pursued a life of surfing experimentation. It was no surprise to see the lank goofyfooter bring the same zeal for creative exploration to this year's Vans Triple Crown.

What was your thought process for approaching this event with non-traditional equipment?

The whole concept behind trying these

Which maybe, you can only access through boards that would really challenge you to look at these waves differently.

boards was to challenge myself to see the waves differently, and maybe learn something that I had left unturned in competition.

Usually when you’re riding these waves, the venues of the Vans Triple Crown, you’re trying to max out your performance for a score. But, I wanted to ride these boards to open my mind up, learn something new about those waves, and how you can ride them.

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A 4’2” Donald Brink, which is called the Ubuntu, which I believe roughly translates to “humanity,” or “we are all one.” It has a huge concave right before the fins. I’m riding it with S-wing fins, which you may have seen on some of Tom Currem’s boards.

Being that it’s such a short board, I thought these fins would really accentuate the rail line.

The board has so much lift, so I wanted to ride it at Sunset, the biggest canvas possible. Try to get as much speed as possible, just to see what the potential could be. It was so fun and the board performed incredibly.

I’m so intrigued to dive deeper to see what the potential for this shape is.

Also, an 8’6” Owl Chapman. You see Owl at Sunset all the time, you know his legacy, and his influence on surf culture and board building. To be able to ride one of his boards at Sunset, especially on a day that was big enough to really utilize the design that it was built for, was something that was so special.

What are your thoughts on the digital format of the Vans Triple Crown?

I think it was amazing that Vans was able to adapt to the landscape and provide this platform for so many people who wouldn't normally have the opportunity, myself included. Everyone had fun and got to enjoy surfing the venues at their own pace. I thought it was a great concept, and it’s only the beginning.

A Fa i t h B a s e d S u r f B r a n d

Photo Oshi Simpson

@pneumalifestyles www.pneumalifestyles.com

Photo Oshi Simpson

WINDWARD MALL at "The Blessed Life" Store (2nd floor near center stage)

Photo Robert Crisostomo

PEARL RIDGE MALL "The Blessed Life" Store (Uptown)

Photo Robert Crisostomo

KAMAKANA ALII "The Blessed Life" Store (Near center stage)

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Vans will join forces with the 12-time Grammy winners to release a special, limited-edition Vans Sk8-Hi on January 29, days ahead of the February 5 release of Medicine at Midnight, the bands 10th album.

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Channel Islands returns to Merrick Family Channel Islands Surfboards has officially been returned to the Merrick family from Burton Snowboards, who had taken ownership of the board building company in 2006. The transition was announced in November and finalized just before the start of the New Year. As part of an LLC, Britt Merrick, team riders, join valued employees in a joint ownership of the lucrative Santa Barbara-based company.

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Y NOTES

Super Swell Saturday 2021 dropped in with the biggest swell that Hawaii has seen in decades and all eyes were on Pe’ahi, Waimea, and the Outer Reefs of the North Shore. Highlights included many of the usual suspects such as Kai Lenny, Makuakai Rothman, and John John Florence. But the historic event also provided the perfect backdrop to showcase other performances like Justine Duponte making it out of a gnarly Pe’ahi barrel, Brad Domke taming monsters on a skimboard, and show stopping rides by groms, Steve Roberson, 12, Chryslyn Simpson Kane, 13, and Z. Shettewi, 16.

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Red Bull Magnitude The women’s big-wave contest put on by Red Bull will be wrapping up this month and we’ve seen some great waves from these ladies.

The digital contest has provided a truly unique opportunity for the established, and up-and-coming, female big wave surfers to participate in the same competition. We are stoking to see who will take home the titles for “Overall Performance,” “Best Ride,” and “Biggest Wave.”

“Getting Heated” with Mick Fanning and Ross Williams WSL just launched an orginal new series with Mick Fanning and Ross Williams.

The show will give Fanning and Williams the unfettered opportunity to discuss and debate all things surf, and they aren’t holding back! You can catch new episodes of the series every Friday at 9am PST.

Taylor Knox Joins Vuori Team Legendary surfer and San Diego native, Taylor Knox, joins Rob Machado as a Vuori, Investment in Happiness Ambassador.

Happy Birthday to…

2021 is finally here… which means birthdays for a few of WSL’s favorite rippers including Hawaiʻi’s Koa Smith, Portugal’s Frederico Morais, Aussie Owen Wright, and former world champ Steph Gilmore.

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I N

On an Aloha Friday, Ben Aipa, passed away due to health complications from diabetes, stroke and dementia in the presence of his wife, Lenore, at their home in Hilo. Aipa’s life was defined by the pursuit of his passion for surfing and we, as surfers, benefited greatly from it. This Hawaiian’s legacy as an athlete, coach, board builder, mentor, father and grandfather will live forever in all of the design innovations, coaching techniques and aloha he shared freely.

M E M O R I A M

in Waikīkī. You knew Ke Akua designed this kanaka maoli for he‘e nalu because once he discovered surfing he was already competing at the highest level in two years.

Ben was one of the first to bring an athlete’s approach to the sport of surfing that is still perpetuated today. This made him a fierce competitor as well as an extremely successful coach. Larry Bertlemann. Buttons Kaluhiokalani. Mark Lidell. The Ho Brothers.

Tony Moniz. Sunny Garcia. Brad Gerlach.

The first time I interviewed Ben Aipa was in TKTK for a profile in Free Surf Magazine TKTK. During the interview Ben was adamant about referring to himself as a “board builder” and not a “shaper.” One of the things he constantly talked about in the interview was “following your passion.” Despite influencing surfing for over five decades and riding the ups and downs of a fledgling professional sport and a volatile industry, Ben’s passion for surfing was so pure. It was always present in his powerful style of wave riding, methodical approach to surf contests and meticulous craftsmanship in surfboard design.

He was a fighter, literally and figuratively, to the very end – battling debilitating ailments for years – and from the very beginning as a necessity for survival. Ben was born on Kaua‘i and his family moved to O‘ahu after his father left home as a merchant marine and never came back. As a kid he would help his mom pay the bills by diving for coins tourists threw off cruise liners in Honolulu Harbor as well as shining shoes in Downtown. This tenacious work ethic would be a hallmark of Ben’s career as well as the guiding light in his pursuit of passion. Ben would eventually graduate from Farrington High School and excelled in sports like swimming and football. After an injury sidelined his semi-pro football career, he started surfing at the age of 22 when a surfboard fortuitously washed up to his feet

Although I never called him “uncle” he was a mentor for me like so many other surfers, and he would remind me and others to always “hook it” when you were going into that first forehand carve. Ben had so many quotable lines like that and he would routinely throw me a curve ball or crack a joke whenever I was at his shop or we were watching a heat.

He would also tell me that the best way to prepare to surf is to make sure you made doodoo before you paddle out (and it’s true by the way).

His surfboard design innovations like the swallow tail and 2+1 high performance longboard are still widely used to this day. In my opinion, as a friend and journalist, Ben’s most iconic design, Da Sting, was influential because it allowed Larry Bertlemann to surf so radical that it inspired what we now know as modern skateboarding (check out Stacy Peralta’s “Dog Town and Z-Boys” and listen to how those skaters emulated The Rubber Man).

More than a board builder and more than an athlete, Ben Aipa was also an activist in surfing. Whether it was paddling out with Eddie Aikau in protest of the whitewashing of the Duke Kahanamoku Invitational or going up against Hollister’s cultural appropriation of surfing in court, Ben always stood up for his beliefs with passion.

Conan Hayes. Kalani Robb. Taylor Knox.

Kanoa Dahlin. The Irons brothers. The Smith brothers and the incomparable Bethany Hamilton. Those are some of the most notable names that Ben Aipa coached, but there is not enough space on this page to name all of the surfers that Ben has positively impacted in his long career.

Unlike many Millennial surfers from Hawai‘i, I didn’t grow up knowing Aipa as “Uncle Ben.” 64

Less than 24 hours after Ben took his last breath, his passion was felt by all of Hawai‘i on January 16 in the transcendent form of massive winter waves, which will forever be remembered as the “Ben Aipa Swell.”

Aipa is survived by his wife, Lenore, sons, Akila and Duke, daughter, Lani; and eight grandchildren.

Mahalo for pursuing your passion, Ben. The sport of surfing is better because of your legacy. A hui hou…

Surf with a smile

Dr. John

Jones Dentistry

808 955 0058

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John Choi, Esq. & Michelle Choi, CPA

L A S T

L O O K

The North Shore is this bizarre mixture of the most talented waveriders on the planet, pushing the boundaries in the life-threatening surf, clueless tourists some of whom have never even seen an ocean, and the full-spectrum between these two extremes. The North Shore lifeguards keep a watchful eye over them all - Guardians of the Surf. Jeff Okuyama, another day in the office.

Photo: Brian Bielmann