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Kekoa Cazimero Photo: gOnzo
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Kahea Hart's merciless backside attack at Bowls this particular morning was legendary. It seems like whenever he stands up on a solid wave, all he wants to do is destroy the lip and go beyond vertical. The landing of this radical maneuver was mental! Afterwards, he paddled back out for more, mysteriously calm and hyper focused. Photo: gOnzo
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04 Free Parking 08 Editorâ€™s Note 10 Cover Story 12 News & Events 26 Junior 28 They Rip 32 Pau Hana 36 Kekoa Cazimero 44 Top Summer Spots 60 Beach Read 64 Industry Notes 66 Last Look
Haley Otto Photo: Will Walling
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Summertime is in full swing, as south swell lights up the sleeping beauties that many surfers across the Hawaiian Islands have waited for so patiently. Temperatures are up, bbq grills are aflame, and tourist season makes for even less parking near popular surf breaks. Yet, whenever French Polynesia gets hit with an epic swell, surfers in Hawai‘i prepare for long days ahead in the sun. Unlike the North Shore winter, summer swells offer Endless Summer quality rides for days on end with friendly, welcoming conditions. Our Aperture section of this issue will take you on a journey from Kona to Lahaina and around the bustling cityscape of Honolulu, highlighting some of our favorite summer spots across the Islands. In this summer issue, we sit down with surfing entrepreneur Kekoa Cazimero in Hawai‘i Kai to talk business (also pictured on the cover stylish as ever at his favorite wave, Ala Moana Bowls); from his new vlog to his brand, Ambassadors With Aloha, their plans for community outreach is focused on guiding our keiki. Then we dive into the epicenter of surf tourism to catch up with the eldest brother of the Moniz family, Micah, and hear about what it was like to grow up “surf-schooled” at Queen’s Beach, demonstrating just how far the support of a loving family can take us. We even chat about brotherhood with junior competitors Noah and Jaxon Kawaguchi (15 and 11) who rip their home break at Kewalos, the epicenter of gromhood for Town surfers. And when we say ‘Town’, we’re referring to the US’s 10th largest city of Honolulu—we wish you good luck finding a parking spot, especially during those infamous weekend swells. Once you do paddle out, though, it will all be worth the extra effort. There’s no offseason for Town, but there’s definitely a time of year when we love it most: summer! Aloha, and mahalo for reading. Shannon Reporting Managing Editor
Carson Meyers Photo: John Hook
Editorial Publisher Mike Latronic
Managing Editor Shannon Reporting Photo Director gOnzo Art Director John Weaver Social Media Manager Shannon Reporting Contributing Writers gOnzo, Alexandra Kahn, Kyveli Sophia, Mara Pyzel, Shannon Reporting, Tyler Rock, Jud Lau
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Cover Story / Kekoa Cazimero at Bowls by Gonzo When you meet Kekoa Cazimero, it’s almost impossible not to be affected by his contagious positivity and massive amount of aloha spirit. His genuine smile and demeanor just make you want to cruise with him; he’s welcoming, stoked, and is always focused on the task at hand. A true modern Hawaiian warrior, he will stop at nothing to overcome obstacles—he even has “relentless” tattooed on his body. Cazimero knows what he wants and will work hard every day to achieve his goals, at least that's the vibe I have always gotten from him. He’s a Class A subject for a surf photographer, always communicating about wave conditions, forecasts, and letting me know when he is going to paddle out so we can get some shots during the few epic windows. His second office is Ala Moana Bowls and he knows the wave like the palm of his hand. Every time he takes off on a wave they seem to communicate with one another, as if deep in a relationship. He speeds up, slows down, and tucks into the barrel at precise moments. Bowls is not an easy wave to surf, but his mileage out there is so tremendous that it seems like he could surf it blindfolded with plenty of ease. We scored this issue's cover image during the second significant south swell of the summer on May 26, 2019. The swell had a very brief, magical moment where some of the main elements came together for a few minutes: tide, light, and size did its thing and we did ours. I was shooting with a 100mm lens in order to get a tight shot, but with enough space to create a possible cover shot. During this session, we communicated with telepathy. (I wish I could communicate with my subjects in the water through a walkie-talkie to be super productive.) He did his thing and I did mine, getting pretty close to him with my housing as he surfed the Bowls barrel with style and grace. I like his super mellow body language in this frame. Town in the summer is all about south swells and having fun; this photo encompasses all of that. Be sure to check Cazimero's feature as a surfing entrepreneur in this issue. He told me his last cover shot for Freesurf was 10 years ago, so I am stoked the flat spell has been broken! Aloha, brother Kekoa!
@ SALTY_ CREW | SALTY-CREW .COM
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T&C Surf Grom Contest presented by Chili’s Hawai’i’s Next Generation of Surfing Legends Photos gOnzo
The T&C Surf Grom Contest presented by Chili’s Grill & Bar took place on June 1-2, 2019 under the beautiful sunny skies of Waikiki. Clean conditions and perfect one to three-foot waves set the stage for the family friendly event that has been running at the iconic surf break of Queens for 22 consecutive years. The tents of families and the event sponsors lined the beach beneath the Duke Kahanamoku Statue, a place considered the birthplace of modern surfing. The location is fitting since it is a first taste of competitive surfing for most kids, and the mellow approachable wave at Queens and Baby Queens is perfect for the keiki. The contest is also unique because it limits the field to only surfers who have yet to compete in sanctioned events like HSA and NSSA, offering kids a taste of competitive surfing without all the pressure that other junior surf events bring.
The event kicked off Saturday morning at Queens main break with overhead waves, sunny skies and light trades. Surfers from three to twelve years of age from across the island chain competed in boys and girls divisions of shortboard, longboard, and bodyboard. At Baby Queens, children age eight and younger enjoyed the ever popular Kokua division, which allows the kids assistance in getting into the waves from friends and family. The competition wasn’t limited to the water. On the beach, kids battled for extra prizes with an array of games from limbo to who can get the sandiest. There were also a ton of items donated by sponsors that were being won all day long by lucky draw as well as a beach cleanup organized by the Vertra Sunscreen crew that gave away goodies to kids that picked up trash and recyclables around the event.
their keiki on board took to the waves to see which squad could snag the best waves. The two specialty heats featured the likes of T&C founder Craig Sugihara along with his granddaughter, as well as T&C Vice President Ryan Sugihara and pro and former pro surfers like Billy Kemper, Joel Centeio, Sean Moody, Dino Miranda, and Board Stories TV host Chris Latronic and keiki. In the end, the top spot was awarded to father and son team, Dino and Kaniela Miranda. Lunch was provided both days by long time presenting sponsor, Chili’s Grill and Bar and games were hosted by radio personalities “Krystilez” of FM 102.7 DaBomb and “Bruddah Brian” of FM 93.1 Da Paina. Sunday’s competition concluded with finals in all twelve divisions. Every finalist walked away stoked with a goodie bag full of great prizes from event contributing sponsors Dakine, Vans, RVCA, Vertra, and so many more. A portion of the event proceeds go to benefit our nonprofit partner The Boys and Girls Club of Hawai’i.
On Sunday, competition resumed at Queens in clean one to two-foot surf as kids duked it out for one of six spots in the finals. The FreeSurf Magazine Expression Session, where tandem teams of parents with 12
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Sean Moody and son Jack
always want to come back again each year.”
SHORTBOARD GIRLS (6-8) 1. Ruby Stringfellow 2. Kylie Oshiro Kaneshiro 3. Lucia Veith 4. Emma Colandrea 5. Maya Wong 6. Remi Neider
At the end of the fun filled weekend, the biggest rewards are the kid’s smiling faces from the pure joy of sharing waves and the relationships that are built around the ocean that last a lifetime. Some parents have been coming for years and some for the first time. Former professional surfer Sean Moody exclaims, “This was my son’s first surf event, and it could not have been a better one. Amazing family vibe at the beach that started it all for surfing. Waikiki is a special place with
incredible young talent coming. And it’s great to see one of the biggest surf brands in Hawai’i give back to the people that have supported them over the years.” Grom mom, Sunshine Topping has been attending the T&C Grom Contest for quite some time. She adds, “This year was our 12th consecutive year. We absolutely love this contest, it has become a tradition in our family. It is special because we made some of our best friends at this contest, and Waikiki means a lot to us because our ancestors
grew up surfing these beaches. We usually make a fun weekend out of it, even when the kids aren’t surfing in a heat, they are surfing with friends at Babies or Canoes or participating in the fun games.” T&C founder Craig Sugihara also remarks, “My favorite part is watching the Kokua division with all the little kids being pushed into waves at Baby Queens, some for the first time. That gives them the most joy and the parents love it. The kids and parents have so much fun at this contest, they
SHORTBOARD GIRLS (9-10) 1. Gemma Gause 2. Addison Murphy 3. Elliana Schiffner 4. Kona Flanagan 5. Noelo Wong 6. Peyton Prouty SHORTBOARD GIRLS (11-12) 1. Kiana Mertz 2. Haven Ingbino Francisco 3. Malia Deodato 4. Beni Iinuma 5. Kaylee Mara 6. Aina Chiba
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R O B E RT G R I L H O T H E S U P E R F R E A K ™ F I O R I B O A R D S H O RT O ’ N E I L L I N C . 2 0 1 9 | U S . O N E I L L . C O M | P H O T O G R A P H Y: A U S T I N M O O R E
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SHORTBOARD BOYS (9-10) 1. Olan Kokoro Johnson 2. Kielan Jardini 3. Inti Rey Guiteirrez 4. Mikala Tejada 5. Toa Pere 6. Nikoa Fernandez
Billy Kemper and son Haze
SHORTBOARD BOYS (11-12) 1. Waimea Star Aliku 2. Kilian Rosskopf 3. Kai Fernandez 4. Nolan Senn 5. Ale Yasui 6. Zander Satterlen King
LONGBOARD GIRLS (6-9) 1. Cash Hoover 2. Chloe Colandrea 3. Taylor Kini 4. Kula Blomfield 5. Lala McMahon 6. Olive Cody LONGBOARD GIRLS (10-12) 1. Hanako Dougherty 2. Sheadyn Friel 3. Tiana Lagestee
4. Sarai Dodson 5. Piper Linke 6. Najahine Fukumitsu SHORTBOARD BOYS (6-8) 1. Merrick Mochkatel 2. Kodin Wau 3. Tama Pere 4. Kaua Cabral 5. Wesley Beavers 6. Kiran Satterlee King
LONGBOARD BOYS (6-9) 1. Aleipoipono Tomas 2. Moses Kaleopaa 3. Makani Enoka-Miramontes 4. Manu Ferguson 5. Mars Shuman 6. Jerry Iwankiw LONGBOARD BOYS (10-12) 1. Ezra Clark 2. Beau Spradlin 3. Jeremiah Chun-Riveria
Zoe McDougall Hawaii | @zoe_mcdougall
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4. Kelii Kauhane 5. Braden Kauhane 6. Jeremiah Dale BODYBOARD COED (6-9) 1. Joaquin Hancock 2. Isreal Kuamo’o 3. Lawakua Inso 4. Titan Kane 5. Caydian Respicio 6. Zachariah Smith BODYBOARD COED (10-12) 1. Caleb Powell 2. Kainalu Shim 3. Alyssa Awana 4. Heaven Palakiko 5. Audriana Leedy Maldonado 6. Makaialii Carrol FREESURF EXPRESSION SESSION 1. Dino and Kaniela Miranda 2. Christopher and Luke Latronic 3. Tristian & Koa Leedy
The “Striker” is a fuller-outlined hybrid model that allows high-performance surfing on even the smallest of days. The low balanced rocker makes this board fly on the water. A full-nose outline blends into a small bump in the tail, keeping the board up and moving in low power situations. The moderate single to double concave ends in a slight vee running off the tail, allowing the board to easily transition from rail to rail. A must-have board for every summer quiver. Available in squash and swallow tail designs, in 3-fin or 5-fin configurations.
Performance Shapes by Kerry Tokoro
Inspired by Josh Moniz, the “Mojo” is a high-performance hybrid design that will keep you surfing fast and dynamic, even in smaller, low-power waves. The bottom rocker is relaxed with an accelerated tail kick, and the single to double concave is noticeably deep. The wide point of the outline is pushed back a bit, creating a narrower nose and a smooth tail curve with very little hip or bump. Ideal for waist to head-high waves, this board gets in and moving quickly. Unlike many hybrids, it drives vertically up the face, into the lip, and beyond. Available in squash, round and swallow tail designs.
The “Wild Card” is based off of a retro twin-fin design, with a few modifications which cater to the modern-day small wave performer. The relaxed rocker from tip to to tip combined with a mild single to double concave fading off the tail, keeps this groveler skimming across the water with ease. All while feeling li lively, spunky and loose though turns. The full outline produces a stable platform which increases the surface area for drive and lift. This board is perfect for smaller days and will keep you surfing through the worst of summer’s flat spells. Available as a Swallow Tail with a Tri/Quad fin set-up.
ADVANCED COMPOSITE MATRIX
Josh Moniz, Kewalos.
Mojo Model by Kerry Tokoro: 5’10” X 18.75” X 2.33” Ala Moana Center - Street Level Mauka & Third Floor Diamond Head
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2019 Local Motion Surf Into Summer By Shannon Reporting
Ala Moana Bowls hosted the 2019 Local Motion Surf Into Summer event from June 8-9th. Conditions were fun and clean on opening day, with more south swell filling into Honolulu on Sunday for day two with sets in the head-high range. The small conditions were still plenty rippable for all of Hawai’i’s best talent. The longboard division took over Bowls on Sunday morning displaying proper nose rides and timeless style. The guys and girls who were having the most fun took to the podium. Congrats to all the participants!
Results Menehune Division 1 OLAN JOHNSON 2 STONE SUITT 3 DYLAN GAZZOLA 4 CHESNEY GUINOTTE 5 KIELAN JARDINI 6 ENZO PASCUAL MITCHELL Boys Division 1 SHION CRAWFORD 2 DANIEL STELLA 3 LEO OLSON 4 RYLAN BEAVERS 5 NAHIKU ONISHI 6 ELYJAH INGBINO FRANCISCO
L O C A L gOnzo
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Dustin Kalani Fernandez
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Jr. Mens Division 1 ZAC HEDEMAN 2 JAKE RICCOBUANO 3 BROCK MCTIGUE 4 LUCAS REED 5 DIEGO STELLA 6 NAVARRA SCHILLACI Mens Division 1 PALIKU VICTORINO 2 BRADYN YOSHIDA 3 DEVIN BRUGGERMANN 4 JUSTIN SILVA 5 KAMERON DOWIS 6 SANTINO VELCI Masters Division 1 TANNER HAYTIN 2 ROBERT HENNESSY 3 JEDEDIAH PACHECO 4 MAKANA CIOTTI 5 KEONI TANIYAMA 6 JARETT HOW Sr. Mens Division 1 TODD MURASHIGE 2 DAVID KUWADA 3 DEXTER SHIMABUKURO
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4 CHRISTOPHER LATRONIC 5 ALEX DE SILVA 6 JASON GONSALVES Girls Division 1 BETTYLOU SAKURA JOHNSON 2 ANGELINA YOSSA 3 LUCY JARRARD 4 LEILA RICCOBUANO 5 HAVEN GALLANO 6 TYRRA GALLANO Womens Division 1 STEPHANIE DE SILVA 2 HANA HARRISON 3 ERIKA STEINER 4 LINDSEY PURDY 5 JAMILAH STARR 6 MELISSA VALDEZ Longboard Division 1 ROBERT FERNANDEZ 2 DUSTIN FERNANDEZ 3 DANIEL UCHIMURA 4 JAMES CULHANE 5 LAAKEA DAVIS 6 KER PORTER
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Rip Curl Grom Search / Stop 1 Photos Matt Ord
The Rip Curl GromSearch presented by Banzai Bowls saw 168 of the nation’s top groms whittled down to 16 finalists after two days of ripping under the towering pilings of the Huntington Beach Pier. Finals day saw buzzer beating wins, major upsets, huge maneuvers and even the occasional stingray. As the heats continued to pass by, the growing pressure of making a final this season and securing a spot in the National Final was proving to have impact on competitors. After a full weekend of high-performance surfing, the 16 lucky finalists locked in their spots to compete in the GromSearch National Final at the BSR Surf Resort in Waco, Texas. The winners of the National Final will go on to meet the international field at the GromSearch International Final at an undisclosed location along The Search in Spring 2020.
Finals day saw overcast, smooth conditions and consistent 2-3 foot surf offering up the reliable Pier Bowl left and occasional middle sandbar right. The Boy’s 16/Under pinned four familiar Californian’s together with a consistent flow of waves and scoring opportunities. Final winner Levi Slawson stayed under the pier and snuck into a few high scoring lefts, granting him an 8.00 and 7.27. The Boys final was rounded out with Hagan Johnson (12.93), Banzai Bowls Maneuver of the Event winner Nolan Rodgers (7.97) and Jabe Swierkocki (6.93). The key to claiming the Girl’s 16/Under title came down to picking off the longer walls and finishing waves with a bang. Finals winner Alyssa Spencer (CA) seemed to be a natural wave magnet, supplying two 7’s and allowing her to combo the rest of the field. The rest of this talent stacked final included 2018 International Final winner and this stops Lost Surfboard High Heat Total winner Caity Simmers (CA – 8.10), Makena Burke (CA – 8.17) and sole Canadian, Sanoa Dempfle-Olin (6.07). We’ll see these girls compete again at the National Final in Waco!
Possibly the most action-packed heat of the day, the Boy’s 14/ Under Final had its fair share of fireworks during its 25 total waves. Kai Martin took on fellow Hawaiian’s Levi Young and Diego Ferri along with Florida’s own William Hedleston. Kai Martin got busy with seven total waves and an explosive backhand attack putting up the events highest scoring wave (9.73) before rounding out with a solid backup (5.47). Levi’s momentum built a little too late as he came up 1.26 short while scoring a 7.77 and 5.87 towards the back half of the heat. Surfing great all event, William Hedleston (10.80) and Diego Ferri (9.20) wrapped up the final. The Boy’s 12/Under Final saw some of the groups biggest names go head to head while battling it out in a wave rich heat. Jackson Dorian (HI), Diesel Butts (HI) and Cannon Carr (CA) started their heat while Jak Zietz (CA) remained a scratch with an injury. The heat started off slow, but soon sets started pouring into the gloomy HB lineup. With 15 minutes left and fresh out of a stingray bucket, Jak Zietz raced to the lineup and grabbed two mid-range scores to end up in 3rd place. Dorian stayed busy during his heat and used a few pier bowl lefts to get an 8.83 and 7.17. The final ended with Diesel coming in 2nd with an 11.77 and Carr in 4th with a 7.40. 2019 International Final winner Caity Simmers won a custom Lost Surfboard by winning the Lost Surfboards High Heat Total with a 16.84 in her Round 1 performance. Nolan Rodgers picked up $300 cash, a custom hand painted bowl and a spot in our National Final Waco Air Show at the BSR Surf Resort by winning the Banzai Bowls Maneuver of the Event with a huge frontside air on a left into the pier.
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LUKE SWANSON By Gonzo
When you meet North Shore surfer Luke Swanson out of the water, his maturity is demonstrated in his positive attitude and courtesy. In the water, his stylish approach looks natural and unforced, a product of training under the heavyweights of our sport. Joel Centeio and Fred Patacchia took him under their wings in the early years. Swanson is getting familiar with Pipe and Rocky Point, making friends in the right places to get waves and learn a ton from the veterans. Swanson’s dad was keen on placing him in soccer leagues instead of his current path, but quickly realized his son’s potential to be one of the best surfers on the islands. Now at the young age of 15, Swanson has earned the support of Rip Curl a company that believes in his potential. And rightfully so - Swanson took the top spot at Hawai`i Surfing Association State Championships held at Ala Moana Bowls this spring. He hopes to bring that momentum and confidence to Nationals this summer.
Favorite waves: Anywhere from Off The Wall to Rockies Go-to quiver: “Happy” by Channel Islands: 5’7” tall x 17 5/8 “ wide x 2 1/8 thick What’s it like riding for the Rip Curl team? Rip Curl is so awesome! They encourage fun and adventure but are also very supportive of my competitive endeavors. Gabriel Medina is a beast! He is super good at competing and also very consistent in just about every way. I learn a lot from watching him. Mason Ho might get me more psyched to go surf than anyone else in the
world. His style on waves and his froth in and off the water get me so psyched. He probably has more fun than anyone else in the water. I love that!
What’s your relationship like with your surf coach? As of recently, Kekoa Bacalso started working with me and my surfing. He’s super cool! He’s very smart and knows everything there is to know as a surf coach. He’s super kind and does his very best to support everything I do. I’m super psyched on everything to come! Also, [...] my dad has always been an amazing coach for me. He knows me better than anyone and can be kind, yet critical when I need it. I’ve always appreciated him. Plus, he has always been behind the lens for me since day one. Bobby Owens
Home spot: Rocky Point, Haleiwa, Hawai‘i
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How is your win at the HSA State Championships motivating you through to Nationals? HSA State Champs were super cool. The waves were mostly good and I got some super fun rides. Everyone was ripping, so just being a part of that was epic. Coming out of States with the win means a ton for me while moving on to Nationals in California. That was a huge confidence booster. It was also a goal of mine for this year, and I’m happy to have checked that box. I can’t wait for Nationals and competing with all the other surfers in the US. Your mindset while freesurfing vs. competitive surfing... My freesurfing mindset versus my competitive mindset is different. When I’m freesurfing, I am just out there having fun, doing what I love, and enjoying God’s creation. When I’m competing or in a competitive mindset, most things switch. I’m out there to be the best surfer, prove what I can do, and beat everyone else. I love freesurfing and I also enjoy competing. I think they balance each other out with my personality. Do you have a dream surf destinations on your bucket list? A dream surf trip for me? Probably going to a clear water wedge in warm water. I guess going to Indonesia and surfing waves like Macaronis sounds fun, or maybe going to Tahiti. Outside the US, I have only gone to Tahiti, but I want to travel all over the world and surf a lot of fun waves in the future.
What are your goals for your surfing career? My goals in surfing are to qualify for the World Tour, win a world title, and honor God with my accomplishments.
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Jaxon & Noah Kawaguchi By Shannon Reporting
Having a little brother is like signing a lifelong contract with a surf buddy (or caddy, depending on how generous the older sibling is feeling). He’ll follow you around, learning from your every move, and either idolize you or try to one-up you. Yup, the competitive nature of siblings is hard-wired from birth: Who’s going to receive more of mother’s attention? Who makes dad proudest? Who can run to the other side of the beach the fastest? Siblings push each other to new heights, with the occasional scrap to the top. Lucky for surf dad Tony Kawaguchi, he raised two good kids who both happen to be radical surfers. Noah, 15, and Jaxon, who just turned 11, rip Kewalos, the epicenter of gromhood for Town surfers. Kewalos is consistent and breaks nearly every day, giving the boys a playground like none other on a high tide. The brothers have put in the time, and now they’re headed to the National Championships at Trestles in San Clemente after a quick stop in Waco, Texas to test out the wavepool. We caught up with the two junior surfers before they hopped over to the mainland.
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Home break: Kewalos, and semi-secret spots near our house in `Āina Haina, Hawai‘i.
the North Shore. The uncles in Hawai‘i always give me waves, but at Lowers, nobody gives anything to anyone.
Favorite wave: Out by our house, but we can’t expose it or the uncles will be mad.
What’s your strategy going into Nationals? Noah: I qualified for the US National Championships through NSSA Regionals. My strategy at Nationals is not to beat the other competitors but to better myself. The past few years I have been lucky enough to compete in USA Champs at Lowers. It’s one of my favorite waves - so perfect and easy. Everyone at US Champs is super gnarly; they all surf amazingly.
Tell us about your brother. Jaxon (11 years old): My brother and I surf together almost every day unless it’s huge. When it's over 6 ft Hawaiian or so, I just watch him. He teaches me how to do stuff, and yells at me when I do something wrong, like if I don’t go on a good one or if I fall when I shouldn’t. He's pretty fun when he’s not getting mad at me. Sometimes he sends me in if the waves get way too big. Noah (15 years old): Sometimes we get along, but sometimes we annoy each other [laughs]. Jaxon is crazy. He loves to get pounded! I try to help him get waves and show him where to line up at spots he has never surfed before. He is my main surf buddy. Do you surf your best in competition mode or when freesurfing? Noah: When I’m in a contest, I try to battle as hard as I can. Whether it’s my best friend or my biggest rival, I try to compete the same way. Jaxon: I surf best with my brother and dad out at our home break. Nobody is ever out there except the local uncles who are always really nice. There’s no pressure, just some sharks. Are you prepared to battle the crowd at Lower Trestles? Jaxon: Yes! I got into US Champs at Lowers when I got third at NSSA Hawai‘i Regional Championships. I've freesurfed Lowers a few times and love it! The crowd is crazy and way more aggressive than on
Any lucky rituals before a heat? Noah: I like to listen to rap music and eat an orange before my heat. That gives me energy. Favorite surfers to watch: Jaxon: I like the Moniz brothers, Zeke Lau, Carissa Moore, Brisa Hennessy, and Barron Mamiya because he charges. I grew up surfing in the same lineup with them since I was six. I was getting pushed in on the inside waves when they were groms sitting on the outside. Stoked to be on the Rip Curl surf team, Noah? Noah: Definitely. I have met so many cool people who have helped me become a better surfer. Being a part of the Rip Curl team is awesome. Favorite subject in school: Jaxon: I am pretty good at math, like my mom who is an engineer. I don’t ever want to grow up, but someday I'll probably be a realtor like my dad. What does ‘aloha’ mean to you? Noah: For me, ‘aloha’ is a way of treating others and being nice to everyone. What are some goals for your surfing career? Noah: Win contests, drop crazy clips, and be the guy having the most fun!
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By Shannon Reporting
Our feature series Pau Hana highlights some of Hawai'i’s most interesting professionals, telling their unique stories of their roads to success. This issue, we reach out to the oldest brother in the Moniz family of seven—Micah Moniz. In his younger years as an amateur surfer, Micah claimed the HSA State Championships at Ala Moana Bowls at the age of 17, even defeating noteworthy competitors like Zeke Lau. Billabong coach Rainos Hayes described his surfing as “exceptional.” Now in his adult years, Micah is settling down with his fiancé, managing the family business at Faith Surf School in Waikiki, and paddling out to bigger waves at
the North Shore’s outer reef breaks… plus the occasional foilboarding session to keep things fun and fresh. “Bowls and Pipe are my favorites, but I love surfing any of the breaks at home. Queen’s is another one of my favorite spots,” Micah told Freesurf Mag. Both work and play take place in the ocean for the Moniz clan, thanks to their parents’ influence raising them in the heart of surf tourism. Today, the Moniz family runs the Faith Surf School, located in front of Duke’s at the Outrigger Resort, and their newest location, Moniz Family Surf, is operated out of the Billabong store on Kalakaua Avenue.
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“It all started with my dad passing out fliers on the beach, setting up our pop-up tent right at Queen’s, and doing homeschool on the beach all day while Mom and Dad hustled surf lessons... My dad would never push us or force us to surf. He always made sure we were having fun and enjoying our time in the ocean. I think that’s why we all loved it so much.” Once the kids got serious in the competitive arena, Coach Rainos Hayes came into the picture: “Rainos was a major mentor for all of us. We got sponsored by Billabong 15 years ago, and he’s been coaching me and my brothers ever since.” And what a fairytale story it has been! “The Moniz family is so supportive of whatever each of them is doing,” Hayes told us. “They each have different strengths, and their love for each other is strong.” As one of Hawai'i’s most successful surf coaches, Hayes is now on the road with Micah’s younger brother, Seth, who has fought hard to stay in the Top 10 of the World Tour, an incredible accomplishment for a rookie competitor. The family support has been a clear driving force of their success, and the stoke is palpable. “It’s crazy to see my baby brother on the Tour,” Micah told us. “Our family was so pumped when he qualified! It was a dream come true for all of us. I get chicken skin every time I see him with the jersey on. I always knew that for Josh and Seth’s surfing was meant for the World Championship Tour stage; it was just a matter of time.” Being gifted in the water seems to be a guaranteed Moniz trait. Micah also brings a humble and patient energy into every endeavor. “An ambassador of aloha treats people the way they want to be treated. That’s something my mom has been teaching my siblings and me our entire lives.” His mother, Tammy, was even voted by peers as the Manulele Awards’ official 2018 “Ambassador of Aloha”. Her teachings have gone far and wide, spread by her children who share positivity with all whom they meet, through each and every surf lesson and heartfelt smile.
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When we asked Micah for any closing words, he had this to say: “Live the life you love!”
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One life, right? Don’t blow it.
KEKOA CAZIMERO By Andrew Oliver Photos gOnzo There’s a wealth of talent in Hawai‘i across various industries. In the past, one’s level of success often mirrored trips to the mainland. At least that’s what Waimanalo’s Kekoa Cazimero, 30, did to chase his dream of becoming a professional surfer. Yet over the course of a passionate career, he’s grown interests in other industries such as fashion and business. Cazimero brings the same level of dedication to these creative pursuits that he brings to his surfing. It’s refreshing to see someone with the extensive connections that he does trying to create something new in Hawai‘i, made here on island instead of in the surf industry mecca of Southern California. His business—Ambassadors With Aloha, or simply AWA—is still small scale - for now. Cazimero has big goals in mind and with solid partnerships, including collaborations with Michelob Ultra, amongst others, the future of AWA is promising. By working with people who inspire him and with whom his ideals coincide, Cazimero aims to reach out to the Hawaiʻi community, getting creative with fan engagement, and generating unique opportunities for the local keiki. Through his own business-building experience, Cazimero reminds us that professional surfers should plan for their future postcompetitive career. The key distinction with Cazimero’s approach is his willingness to walk the walk, pursuing his entrepreneurial dreams with fearlessness. It’s scary to create a project without completely giving up when faced with unforeseen challenges. We all have desires and dreams, but those who are willing to take the necessary steps towards that dream, believing in themselves along the way, are much more likely to see them achieved. Above all, Cazimero demonstrates confidence in his ability to make anything happen. His wheels are turning, and he’s living his dream. Sure, the daily grind is still a hustle and not every day is a victory—especially in the beginning stages of business development—but he’s preserving. And that’s inspiring. It was his 30th birthday, but the ever-dedicated Cazimero still found the time to sit down with us at his homebase in Hawai‘i Kai. He discussed the ups and downs of his journey from ameatur competitive surfer to the professional freesurfer and fashion industry businessman he is today. Tell us about growing up on the East side of O`ahu. I grew up in Waimanalo and am currently residing in Hawai‘i Kai. The Moniz family and Zeke Lau are also living here in Hawai‘i Kai, so we have a little crew and we run sessions together. We’ve got a lot of raw talent here and have two guys on the World Tour, so that’s super cool. I was just texting with Seth. He’s on his way home from Australia and so is Zeke. I messaged him, “Bet you can’t wait to get home to have
"There are always going to be tough days, but it’s all about perseverance; believe that you’re going to do something great. Keep pushing forward. I have ‘relentless’ tattooed on my arm for a reason."
a poke bowl and surf Sandy’s.” Then Zeke wrote back, “Brah, sounds like the best thing ever!” This is home. This is where the heart is. I grew up surfing Sandy’s. That’s where I learned to surf. I live two minutes away now which is amazing. And I’ve been surfing Ala Moana Bowls since I was eight years old. It’s the Pipeline of the South Shore. You’ll see all the boys out there; the boys from the country come out here in the summer. There’s an energy about Bowls that you can’t find anywhere else on the South Shore. There’s a strict hierarchy in the lineup. I had to work my way up. When I was eight, I had to sit on the inside watching guys like Bryan Amona, Larry Rios, and Mike Akima just standing straight up in barrels. I thought to myself, ‘I want to do that!’ When I was finally sitting in the
same spot as them in the lineup they said, ‘Okay, now it’s your turn. We’re going to pass the torch to you and the new guys to make sure everything out here is all good.’ That felt amazing because I’ve looked up to those guys my whole life. My fiancé knows that when Bowls is good, I’m out of the house. She goes, ‘Alright babe, I’ll see you in about 10 hours.’ You’ve been dedicated to the sport of surfing for a long time. What’s the journey been like? There were so many stages to becoming a pro surfer. When you’re a grom, you’re introduced to all the contests. You’ve got the HSA events every week, NSSAs every weekend, and you’re just trying to establish yourself to gain a presence in the surf community. I remember winning the Governor's Cup in NSSA, the most prestigious title for an ameatur,
then I won States five times, but my real passion while I was doing all of that was freesurfing. I would rather surf maxing Sunset than 1-2 foot Virginia Beach. So I went to Hurley, who was backing me at the time, and told them that I wanted to travel to freesurf and get barreled. They were hesitant at first since I was doing well in competition, but supportive overall. When you transfer over from an ameatur and hit the Qualifying Series there are all these expectations, so if you don’t immediately get the results, it’s a trip... You go through various stages [of emotions] that are really hard to comprehend or explain. I feel like everything I am doing right now is exactly what I am meant to be doing. Honestly, there’s a small window for athletes to compete unless you’re Kelly Slater and a freak of nature. It’s good to ask what an athlete plans to do afterward. Do you have a college degree? Do you have a business you plan on running? I don’t understand why us athletes can’t step up and do both. I’ve had friends and fellow competitors who plan on starting their own businesses hitting me up for advice. For me, to be able to inspire people and let them know that they can do this, too, is cool. You can start your own brand for people who believe in you, people who want to wear your gear and watch your vlog. I’m super blessed that I’m able to do it and have people supporting me. There are always going to be tough days, but it’s all about perseverance; believe that you’re going to do something great. Keep pushing forward. I have ‘relentless’ tattooed on my arm for a reason. You seemed to have gained a lot of perspective through your personal journey. Yeah, I feel like you have to go through it all—competing on the QS, and amateur titles in order to find where you fit in. When we were traveling, we were always questioning what we needed to do to get that next paycheck. I feel like now I have finally found where I belong. I’m on the other side now cutting checks to athletes. I was always performing best when I had support, so now I can communicate with our athletes and support them, asking what it is they need and how I can help. When I build a team, I want to be that guy who’s really involved. It’s humbling for me, because as an athlete I was always the guy reaching out, talking to a manager about my schedule… Now I have a new perspective from the other side of the business. It’s been a crazy journey looking back on it, but I used the experience as motivation to get to where I am now. How did you choose the company name? Ambassadors With Aloha (AWA) embodies what we’re trying to do… to zero-in on specific individuals [who represent the brand’s mission]: athletes, musicians, influencers [such as] Ilima-Lei Macfarlane —the current Bellator MMA Flyweight Women’s World Champion. I really want to approach the brand-building differently and stay true to our mission of supporting ‘Ambassadors With Aloha’. There’s been so much work and effort involved; so much blood, sweat, and tears that have gone into this. From competing full-time, to not competing and just freesurfing, I really started to think about where I fit in with everything. Eventually, I found my groove and what I wanted to do. My heart has always been in fashion. I love clothing and now, being on the other side of the [business], working with [MMA fighters] Ilima-Lei Macfarlane and Yancy Medeiros, has been unreal. With AWA, we have initiatives we want to make happen in the community. I partnered with Michelob Ultra and they’re backing me
200 percent. The stuff we’re going to do for our community is going to be insane! Through AWA we’re going to reach out to our keiki and do cool projects. That’s always been a passion of mine. Now that I’m in a position to do the decision making on my own, [choosing to give back to my community] is huge for me! I’ve been in the surfing world for so long and still feel like I have so much more to offer. Surfing has given me the platform to do everything I’m doing—I’m forever grateful for that—and now I am in a position where I have my own brand and companies backing me financially. We’re thinking of starting projects like beach cleanups, keiki contests... there’s so much we want to do! So the more Ambassadors With Aloha can do, the more the kids will benefit. Who are your role models and inspirations? I find inspiration from so many different places: from fashion, surfing, training, and business. [Entrepreneur] Corey Correa has been my guide through all of this, helping to jump-start my brand and helping me make the right moves to get me to where I need to go. When it comes to surfing, I’ve looked up to Sunny Garcia my entire life, especially the raw power he possesses in and out of the water… He’s always kept it real. We’re both very passionate people. It’s also time for me to give back. As you grow up, you gain an appreciation for things and humble yourself. I was really fortunate to be traveling and surfing good waves, and now it’s my turn to give back and connect with people. If I can inspire people, I’m super stoked. I want to learn the best of both worlds and use my passion in a positive way to help influence and guide kids. I just went to talk to the kids at Holy Nativity School and they have it dialed, knowing what they wanted to do with their lives. It was crazy for me to sit there listening to them. I encouraged them to respect their teachers, respect their parents, stay focused in school and [told them] ‘You guys are going to be solid’. It’s been unreal with AWA. I did the leg work in Los Angeles and walked around the fashion district for hours, days of research. It’s been something I’ve wanted to do my entire life and right now is the time to do it. I’ve already done collaborations with my previous sponsors: hats with Fitted and shorts with Hurley, and we sold out in less than two hours! That was one of the high points of my career. I loved being able to have input in the design, cut, and patterns of what I wanted to see. And that’s what I want to continue to do. People love the products, and the feedback has been incredible. There’s been a huge learning curve for me. I’ve made mistakes, but I’d rather be transparent and honest because everyone messes up. It’s not like I’ve had instant success. There are days when I’m not sure what it is I’m doing, but there are other days where I’ll be partnering with a company like Bloomingdale’s for an event. When Ilima had her fight, we sold out of her gear in two hours. Those are the days that make me realize why I am doing what I’m doing. It fuels me and keeps me going. When I’m unsure of the next step, guys like Pat Tenore at RVCA will give me a nudge to keep going: ‘I like what you’re doing. You’re on the right track.’ Little things like that motivate me to keep going. Kerry Konrady from Olukai has also been guiding me along the way,
explaining where he started and sharing what he did. I look up to those guys so much because they own really cool brands that doing good things. Olukai’s marketing and involvement in the community, and the rad people they’re working with - that’s what we want to do. Sometimes it can feel like its Hawai‘i brands versus the world. Why is it like that? Ambassadors With Aloha wants to share with the world, and show everyone what aloha means. There are so many highs and lows when you start your own business and when you are your own brand, but I feel like it’s helped me grow so much as a person. You’re not going to find growth anywhere else
but outside of your comfort zone. I’ve learned that. You’ve got to be uncomfortable. I surround myself with great people so that I’m not the smartest guy in the room; I’m not the wealthiest guy in the room; I’m not the most talented guy in the room. That has forced me to step up and try to become the businessman I want to be, the athlete I want to be, the future husband I need to be, the future father… I want to be that man. Now is the time for me to make the right moves in order to give my family the life they deserve. Why aren’t more surf brands headquartered here in the birthplace of surfing? Can you foresee a future “mini Costa Mesa”
"You’re not going to find growth anywhere else but outside of your comfort zone."
here in Hawai`i? That’s honestly a great question. I think about that all the time - how cool it would be the have a headquarters here. We always had to fly out to Costa Mesa, [CA], to go check in with everyone, hit the warehouse up for gear and what not. Coming from a logistical standpoint, it makes sense. The costs are probably less there than they would be here, but it would be cool for companies to go that extra mile because there is so much talent here. It’s an exciting time for the islands. We’ve got Ilima who’s a master world champion, and many surfers on the World Tour. Hawai‘i is stepping up. This is home. I’m not going to move to LA. I love California and have a bunch of family
there, but if we could keep our presence here at home, that would be amazing. If we do things right, I’ll be that guy making the headquarters of the company here on island. Our athletes can come to us to grab gear. I want to make a creative space for the marketing guys and influencers to have a space to chill. There’s so much that we could do! It’s exciting times and I’m super pumped for the future. Hopefully I can change things up a bit. How do you maintain a positive attitude and persevere?
Surfing. I go surf when I feel like I’m about to lose my mind. There are days when I get overwhelmed with the long list of tasks at hand, but at the end of the day, the ocean is where my heart is. It’s what gave me everything I have. It gave me the platform to do everything I’m doing. I go back to the ocean and I sit there and look up to thank God. I sit with gratitude in that moment. There are times when all the deadlines, mock-ups, and manufacturer needs are so endless that there just doesn’t seem to be enough hours in the day. Surfing helps me get centered again. When I come back in from a session, whether I’m on conference calls all morning with the manufacturers or sending new mock-ups, I feel refreshed. If I’m lucky enough to score three hours at perfect Bowls, I come in completely reset. My fiancé makes fun of me saying, ‘Oh, is that even the same person? Three hours ago you were losing it!’ [laughs] It’s a perfect balance. Whenever I’m having one of those days, she’ll tell me to grab my board and go surf. That’s why I asked her to marry me! That’s the beautiful thing about living in Hawai‘i and being a professional surfer while building a brand. I can paddle out and get centered in the place where it all began. Some people don’t have that outlet and it’s hard to keep chasing without a break. I always go back to the ocean for clarity and feel so much better. That’s the truth. What fires you up? Early on, my passion was freesurfing. I got discouraged on the QS with the judging, so I pulled back and had to recenter and ask myself, ‘What makes me happy?’ I guess it took me longer to figure that out, but I just wanted to surf perfect waves. I’ve always received great response from fans telling me they like my surfing. If I get a DM from a kid saying I fired him up to go surf, that feels really good. I just got a few boards shaped by Ben Aipa with some different tails that I’m psyched on. He’s making me a board just for Bowls. I want to document that, too, with Reef Shaw Productions to drop a vlog about the essence of surfing and why we really love it. Sure, there’s the title race and all the politics, but why are we really stoked to surf? Is it for the ranking points, or because Ben Aipa just shaped you a board for Bowls? That fires me up! Tell us about your video blog. I’m starting a vlog with Michelob Ultra called “Kekoa Beyond the Waves”. I just signed with them and they’ve been so supportive of me as an athlete and of AWA. I want people to see what I’m doing outside of the water. Reef Shaw Productions is shooting the entire vlog using high-end equipment like the RED Camera and DJI Inspire 2 drone. There will be a YouTube channel to watch each episode and
it will be all over Instagram. It’s an opportunity for me to connect with my audience on a real level. I want them to see what it is we’re doing behind the scenes to get to the end goal. When I get messages on Insta about how we’re going about doing things, I want to answer them to help [out others]. People trip out when I actually respond… It’s that interaction we have with our fans that other brands might not have. [The vlog] will be my way to speak to them on a personal level. Not every day is epic nor easy. This vlog is a great opportunity for me to open up and share my life with others, be more relatable, and show that you can always bounce back from the hardest of days. Believing in yourself is so powerful. If it was easy, everyone would do it… I’m still getting there, still working. I’m not even close to where I want to be. The vlog is a chance to be there with me on that journey. To be able to share that journey with others goes hand-in-hand with my overall mission of helping guide kids. That’s my passion project - to share my life. There have been some devastating situations with my family that feel so tough, as if there’s no bouncing back. But listen, if you put your head down and do the right thing, if you believe in your work ethic and in yourself, then anything is possible. There are going to be days when you ask yourself, ‘Is this what I’m really meant to do?’ I want to be transparent with my fans to let them know that there is a whole different side than what most people see. My love for surfing is why I’m here doing all of this. There’s nothing like being in the ocean! That’s why some days I’m in the water more than I am on land. Words of advice? There were times growing up when I wasn’t the friendliest guy in the lineup. I was competing fulltime, trying to be the guy getting the shot. That’s part of the learning curve of life. Today is my birthday and I turn thirty. I feel like I’m at a point where I am looking back at my younger self and thinking I was such an idiot. What was I doing? The twenties are for learning about who we are. I am very comfortable with who I am as a person right now and where I’m headed. My team and I have a cool perspective that we want to bring to the table, and we want to involve everyone. We get sales from Brazil, Italy, Japan, everywhere! We sell more product to the mainland US than we do in Hawai‘i. It’s awesome for me to be able to share my vision and the aloha spirit with other people. Bringing the vlog to the table is yet another way for me to connect and understand the brand and how it all started. We’re in this together. It’s humbling. I’m always trying to figure out the next step and I’m lucky to have guys that run successful businesses guiding me. That’s the cool thing in the Hawai‘i community: everyone has each other’s backs. That’s the aloha spirit! 42 We want to take this to a global level and share that with everyone.
Intro by gOnzo What’s your gut reaction when you think about summer swell in the Hawaiian Islands? When we think about summer and the craziness of Town, (everything from Aiea to Makapu‘u), the following comes to mind: slow, dense traffic; millions of cars hustling for thirty parking spots; massive, unaffordable condos; the bustling Ala Moana Mall; tourists, tourists, and even more tourists... which all adds up to no parking - or very expensive parking. What a mess. But what a beautiful mess it is! Town is like Manhattan, but with warm water waves and tropical weather year-round. Town is fast-paced, heavily over-priced, with impossible rents, but it’s all so worth it when you take a look at the big picture (if you dare). If you are one of the million wave-warriors who have decided to live in Town and deal with all that hustle in order to go out and catch a few waves with other humans with identical interests, here are our top five summer spot recommendations where you can have fun and enjoy the aloha spirit that only Hawai‘i has to offer.
Top Summer Spots
Ala Moana Bowls Photos gOnzo
Quintessential, iconic, historic, and world-class: there’s so much to be said about this man-made piece of reef. Explosions by the US Army Corps of Engineers decades ago created one of the weirdest, most unique "bowl" waves on the planet. This wave has deep history in Hawaiian surf culture, and the regular uncles who frequent it often have a 30 to 40+ year relationship with her… so it’s best to sit back and wait your turn. The pecking order at Bowls is one of the most established in the world. However, if you show real aloha and wave skill, even the heaviest uncles will yell at you, "Go, brah!" and you better go, do something, and come back and humbly say ‘thanks’ to the whole gang. Respect and you will be respected; that's the only real motto at big Bowls. The wave is really mechanic and obscure in nature. When the swell is big enough and SSW enough, the thing will bend all the way from Bambooras then open up for a few seconds with a crazy bowl section in which only the best know how to stall and enjoy properly. It is the stuff of dreams, but you have to pay your dues to get one of those. They only come a few times a year.
Toots Will Walling
gOnzo Peter Mercado
Queen’s is the epicenter of true longboarding in Town. The queen of waves, it represents a community, a lifestyle, a cult, and the addictive practice of nose riding. This is the stretch of reef where you’ll see the top longboarders perfecting their seamlessly elegant nose rides. Plus the smiles out there are just too much. It’s a party where soul surfing still exists. Depending on your vibe, you may or may not be invited into a good one: it’s up to you. Only aloha vibes are welcomed out on this A-frame.
gOnzo gOnzo gOnzo
Latronic Kekoa Cazimero
Sandy Beach Park Photos gOnzo
Our most sacred summer playground and the spot where competitive bodyboarding started, Sandy Beach is the leading neck-breaking shorebreak in the nation (the lifeguards will inform you, no worries). It is a very deceiving and crowded beach where chaos can happen in the blink of an eye if you are not careful. The waves powerfully explode on shore and it takes some time to understand its roughness, flow, and rhythm. Sandys accepts a bunch of swell direction, and the vibe is nice. During summer it provides hours of play to the younger generation while out of school. The rest of the year, Sandys can get good a few times a month depending on the swell energy and wind direction.
Big Island’s Top Summer Spots by Tyler Rock
As the southernmost island in the Hawaiian chain, the Big Island is the first to see southern swells hit Hawaiian shores. And with more coastline than all the other islands, you’d think the surf would be aplenty. But truth be told, the rugged and raw shoreline does not translate into a multitude of surf spots. However, there are waves to be had if you know where to go. Up until last summer, before the Leilani eruption on the southeastern shore, the zone of Pohoiki boasted a number of quality surf breaks from beginner to advanced waves. This was the main go-to when south swells popped up in the forecast. But as the cycle of earth continues, the living lava eruption reclaimed nearly all of the surf rich coastline of this lower Puna oasis. What it left behind was a newly formed black sand beach over the reefs in Pohoiki’s bay. The potential for surf is still there, but the waves are definitely not the same. Only time will tell if the bottom contours will reform to bring back some of the glory of Pohoiki’s past. While the southeastern shore of the Big Island has lost it’s surf luster, the western Kona side holds a number of zones that can flair up on any southern swell.
The go-to zone is Banyans, the heart of surfing in Kona Town. With a shallow reef and open exposure to both northwest and southern swells, the wave will break
year round, bringing with it a year round crowd. While the winter swells can provide sizey hollow rights, the summer south swells tend to produce shorter rippable lefts. Be wary when the tide is low, the unforgiving bottom can leave a souvenir on you or your board. And as you should do anywhere you go, always respect the locals. South of Banyans, near the end of Kailua Kona’s Ali’i Drive, lies Kahalu’u. With a protected bay for swimming and snorkeling and hotel butting up to the water, this is a popular spot for tourists. But when south swells flare up, the northern end of the bay off the natural rock barrier can produce lefts and rights with plenty of wall to carve. For the less experienced surfers, a reforming wave farther in from the main peak can provide a mellow transition into wave riding and lessons are also available from nearby shops. Farther North, near Kona International Airport, lies the spot known as Pine Trees. Ridable year round, this zone holds several different peaks along its reef bottom. Lael Wilson
As the youngest island of the Hawaiian Chain, the Big Island as its name states is truly a Big Island. Despite the limited access along its shores, the potential to find southern swell waves is definitely there. An adventurous spirit and good attitude is a must if you want to score. And with any luck you can find some fun summer juice on the Big Island.
A popular spot for local families, Pine Trees can get crowded on the weekends and is also a go-to zone when swells are running. On the right tide with light east winds, hallow and rippable rights and lefts can light up the outside peaks. The main bay break can accommodate younger and novice surfers as well.
Maui Summer Spots
By Jud Lau Summertime and the livin's easyâ€Ś As temperatures climb, the incentive to get in the ocean and ride some waves increases accordingly. Every weekend, families load up their trucks with anything and everything that floats - plus the typical tent, umbrellas, chairs, and grill - and head down Honoapi'ilani Highway to one of the many roadside breaks between Ma'alaea and Lahaina to set up camp for the day, or even the entire weekend. The gentle reef breaks here are great for longboarding, foiling, SUPing, SUP foiling, kayaking, tandem surfing, etc. The sandy beaches and grass parks along the shorelines are perfect for cruising and enjoying beautiful sunsets.
While the families head that way, you'll probably find the younger generation at Oneloa—also known as Big Beach - in Makena on the far southern side of Maui. This is a vast, gorgeous, white-sand beach with crystal clear water and a ferocious shorebreak mostly suited to bodysurfing, bodyboarding, and skimboarding, although, some still attempt to surf “third entrance” on the far southern end of the beach. Climb over the bluff on the northern end and you will find Little Beach, a.k.a. Nude Beach.
Whatever your preference, when a solid swell is hitting, there is something for everyone. Waiting for the waves is the tricky part. With Maui's geographical location on the far eastern end of the state tucked behind the Big Island, Lanai, and Kaho'olawe, the direction and the swath of swells have to be just right for the Valley Isle to start delivering.
Ma'alaea Ma'alaea Bay features several breaks, the most famous of which is an amazing right-hander named Freight Trains due to the way it steams down the line with a consistent speed and shape. It also gets its name for the sound the sections make as they pitch out and land in the flats with a loud and rhythmic chuga-chuga-chuga. Sitting in the lineup as a set rolls by, you would swear an actual train was rushing by! Freight Trains breaks just adjacent to the Ma'alaea Harbor entrance where many charter fishing boats, Molokini dive tours, and whale watching boats launch. The Maui division of the US Coast Guard is stationed here as well. The first cattle to arrive on Maui landed at Ma'alaea in 1793. Centuries later, in 1929, Maui's first airport was
established here. About a decade ago, the Surfrider Foundation Maui Chapter successfully prevented the Army Corp of Engineers from extending the break wall, which would have negatively impacted the reef and the magnificent waves. Back in the day, I remember uncles calling Freights the “Eighth Wonder of the World” and if you are ever lucky enough to see it in all its glory, you would probably agree. But you need to have luck on your side and be willing to drop everything when it happens, as it is one of the most fickle waves on the planet. It breaks a few times nearly every summer, usually in the 2-4 foot range (Hawai'ian scale), but every once in a while, the real-deal train arrives! I've been surfing Maui for over 35 years and have only seen it happen three times: once in the mid-80s, then in 1999, and the last time was in 2005. The '99 and the '05 swells were both solid 6-8 foot plus and freight training
for 200 yards straight down the reef. Barrel rides of 15-20 seconds are possible at this size and not the type you are stalling for - we're talking high speed, flying down the line, trying to keep up with what's been frequently referred to as â€œthe fastest wave in the worldâ€?.
Lahaina Harbor If we get tired of sitting and waiting for Freight Trains to break, we head over to Lahaina Harbor. Located right in the heart of Lahaina Town, the harbor is where the Lanai ferry station is located as well as a slew of charter fishing boats and a few private yacht slips. The surf break is right beside the harbor channel entrance and when a good swell is running, the current gets quite nasty pulling into the channel. You have to scramble to paddle out of the way to avoid the boat traffic! The reef break here features a short but punchy right that has
a nice inside double-up on bigger swells and a speedy down-the-line lefthander that offers up some fairly long rides on the right swell and tide. The mana (energy) in this area is strong and tangible. In 1802, King Kamehameha made Lahaina the capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom and built his brick palace directly in front of the surf break. Lahaina then served as the center of the Hawaiian government for over 50 years. There is a metal staircase over the boulders to enter and exit the water, and about 20 yards away is the Hauola stone. This partially submerged, large boulder is shaped like a recliner that is an ancient ali'i (royal) birthing stone. Maui's first hotel built in 1901 and, recently renovated, the Pioneer Inn is situated right in front of the Harbor as well.
This high-performance wave hosts several HSA and NSSA competitions every summer, beneficial to the development of many young surfers from all over Hawai'i. It is surfable at any tide but is at its best on an incoming or high tide. The winds in Lahaina are usually very calm in the morning, so glassy dawn patrols are almost a given. Somewhere between 9:00-11:00 am, winds typically blow light onshore, becoming quite unpredictable through the afternoon. Lahaina sits on the lee side of the West Maui Mountains which block the predominant tradewinds, but at certain speeds and directions, tradewinds will wrap around the mountain and curl back in towards Lahaina. Sometimes they even blow over the mountains creating a stiff, offshore wind. The effects of land heating and convection influencing the winds adds significantly to their unpredictability.
Like most of the breaks on this side of the island, Lahaina Harbor features sharp reef with plenty of wana (sea urchins) and is quite shallow at low tide. Still, the Harbor is one of the most consistently shortboard-able breaks in the summer, and on any given day you will find a large handful of Maui groms out there enjoying the waves. Many of Maui's top surfers call the Harbor their home break, including Clay Marzo, Wes and Granger Larsen, Kevin Sullivan, Kala Willard, and Eli Hanneman. Although we have fewer summer breaks to choose from on Maui, it has resulted in a close-knit surfing community with most (if not all) of our young surfers training at the same spot day in and day out, pushing and inspiring each other to bring out the best in each of them!
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Makua Rothman, Zak Noyle
Zak Noyle's Terrace of Modern Art Show at BeachComber Waikiki By Shannon Reporting
Photos Brett Thompsett
Leading the way in digital water photography and innovation, Zak Noyle has his hands in all sorts of creative projects. From streaming live from the water at Pipeline with his phone, to sharing his expertise as Guest Photo Editor of Freesurf Magazine, we just can't thank this guy enough for his dedication to the sport of surfing and everything he does to support the up-and-comers. What better way to share the stoke than with an art show! The BeachComber Hotel by Outrigger in Waikiki just hosted a killer exhibit on May 24th on their poolside terrace for an ongoing series they've coined TOMA - the Terrace of Modern Art.
â€œTerrace Of Modern Art was brought to life to provide a quarterly platform for local talent to showcase their artwork in an exhibition style environment, and for art-lovers to find new pieces to fall in love with," Noyle explained. "Our program is designed to support emerging and established local artists and features progressive and affordable art inside an inspiring and iconic Waikiki setting. We strive to construct shows that cultivate creativity and promotes originality. This quarterly cultural experience will showcase a wide array of unique art, ranging from paintings and photography to printmaking, illustrations, and more.â€? Supported by RVCA, Zak Noyle's show gathered athletes and artists at the Hawaiian Aroma Caffe in the BeachComber to kick off the evening. 4ft by 3ft metal frames displayed his breathtaking work shot at the Banzai Pipeline and beyond. RVCA was kind enough to cover all the printing costs with 100% of art sales donated to the Waikiki Lifeguard Association.
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A short stroll from the iconic sands of Waikīkī Beach, this new and completely re-imagined modern oasis is a cultural hub and culinary trendsetter, conveniently located in the heart of Waikīkī. That means you’re steps away from the amazing food, activities and adventures when you’re not relaxing poolside. beachcomberhi | #waikikivibes | waikikibeachcomber.com
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North Shore Writer Releases New Book “Waves of Healing” The following is an excerpt from former Editor of Freesurf Magazine Cash Lambert’s new book Waves of Healing: How Surfing Changes the Lives of Children with Autism. The 208 page book, published by Hatherleigh Press in partnership with Penguin Random House, explores how surfing is therapeutic on a scientific level as well as how it’s transformed the lives of 8 families over the course of a decade.
“There are all kinds of theories about why this happens. The water is stimulating visually, which fulfills some children’s sensory needs; water provides ‘a safe and supported environment’ that surrounds the body with ‘hydrostatic pressure’ that ‘soothes and calms’ (as another expert said, it feels like the ultimate hug). Learning new motor skills like swimming, surfing or paddle boarding can have ‘a broad ranging impact on the nervous system,’ according to William Greenough at the Beckman Institute at the University
I had experienced the therapeutic properties of water already, at least to some degree. There had been multiple instances when, after jumping into the ocean, a lake or a pool, I simply felt better; more relaxed, more present. Not to mention, I’d been completely hooked on surfing since that first moment standing atop a surfboard, sliding down a wall of solid water at Waikiki Beach—the Mecca of surfing. Point is, surf therapy isn’t new to our culture. In fact, there’s tens of organizations from “sea to shining sea” that take participants surfing, from those with special needs to military members with PTSD and more. The resounding result is that the participants smile from ear to ear, and experience specific therapeutic benefits. They too become hooked... I dug further into Nichols’ work to find out how water, surfing and even just being on a surfboard can be therapeutic for children with autism.
of Illinois: “There’s increased blood flow to crucial neurons, and the reshaping of abnormal structures in the front brain. But beyond that, surfing may be a vehicle to an emotional breakthrough, a way of reaching under the mask and perhaps connecting to kids like these.” Trying to balance and ride waves also provides them with a clear focus and keeps them in the present moment— neurobiologist Peter Vanderklish believes that the beauty of surfing ‘turns the focus of these kids inside out. They’re pulled out of themselves by having to live in the moment, and all their anxieties push aside.’” (Nichols, 60
Wallace J. Blue Mind: The Surprising Science That Shows How Being Near, In, On, or under Water Can Make You Happier, Healthier, More Connected, and Better at What You Do. 175. Print.) While these theories are speculative, they do begin to paint a picture on an otherwise blank canvas as to why surfing and water do indeed aid in a progression of sorts, as well as how water can help children on the spectrum say their first words. “Perfect waves and empty beaches, the sport of surfing is easily romanticized, but at its core it possesses the power to change one’s life. For those who struggle with autism, surfing can mean a freedom and joy like they’ve never experienced. Author Cash Lambert has taken the time to tell the story of this unlikely relationship. He tenderly makes the case for the healing powers of the sea, as well as how and why it can be so therapeutic for those on the autism spectrum. Waves of Healing will stoke you out, it will tug on your heartstrings, and it will make you reconsider what those with autism are capable of—and how one good ride can change everything.” —Jake Howard, surf writer and editor of First Priority: A Father’s Journey in Raising World Champion Surfer Carissa Moore Waves of Healing: How Surfing Changes the Lives of Children with Autism is available for purchase in bookstores around the world, including Barnes and Noble, Wal Mart, Target and Amazon.
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The Sandy Beach Bodysurfing Championship was held June 8th and 9th.The event was presented by Kaha Nalu Hawai‘i, Viper Fins, and 662 Bodyboard Shop. Dane “Great Daneger” Torres won the Men’s Open Sandy Beach Bodysurfing Championships. Congrats Dane!
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IND USTRY NOTE S American Airlines slashed their board bag fees. Surfboards now travel for $30, equivalent to the first checked bag fee. John John Florence is on a competitive tear! The pride of the North Shore brought home two trophies during the Australian leg of the World Tour circuit, claiming the throne at both the Bells Beach and Margaret River contests. Fingers crossed for his third world title... Equally driven by individual expression, creativity, and style, skate and surf culture have long since held a stronghold on influencing global youth culture and fashion alike. Enter two beloved genre-defining brands of this exact ilk—Vans and Former—whose eclectic style and distinctive aesthetic put them at the forefront of progressive design above trend. Marking the first collaboration between the two—and the first footwear collaboration with any brand for Los Angeles-based Former—the Vans x Former collection was created hand-in-hand with the Former design crew and features three limited-edition footwear styles, an EverRide Stretch boardshort, and a zippered shortsleeve woven shirt.
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Mark Healey is officially a dad! Baby girl Rell was born on May 29th. “I can honestly say that seeing her come into this world eclipsed any experience in my life, by a mile. Nothing else compares.” Congrats to the happy `ohana!
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Thousands of lanterns illuminated Magic Island Lagoon at Ala Moana Beach Park in celebration of Memorial Day. The annual Shinnyo Lantern Floating Hawai'i event honors fallen loved ones. Each lantern box holds a personalized message that is sent to sea. Fin-clad volunteers swam to gather the lanterns, making sure they didn’t pollute our oceans. The event was a beautiful spectacle to behold.
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On a beautiful glassy morning at Bowls, everything comes together for a split second of perfection and Kala Grace is right there in the middle of it all, driving the barrel with ease. Thanks Mother Nature for amazing moments of joy like this one!