My Son's PCT Hike by fredkwilbur

Another Hiking story

A dad asks: "Why?" - 2018-03-12 ~ a Dad's view ~

Walk 2600 miles? Who want's to expose themselves to mountain lions, bears, poodle dog bush, heat stroke, dehydration, corneal flash burns, extreme snowfalls, raging creeks, falling off a mountain and a higher risk of dying? These are just some things one may encounter on the PCT. There are others. Who enjoys filter their drinking water from creeks, sleeping on the ground, walking in the rain, going days without a shower, eating only what they can carry, digging a cat hole to take a dump or carrying their used TP around in their backpack?

My son and I have hiked together a number of times. I understand the pleasure of being outside in nature, enjoying the vistas, smells of the forest, magic morning light, wonderful sunsets, night sky full of stars, and even meeting animals in the wild. I can get that 300 feet from my house. My son will start his thru hike of the PCT April 19. He plans on walking 2600 miles over 5 - 6 months. He asked me to if I was interested in joining him. I can't imagine spending months away from my wife and home. Also, since I'm 73 years old and have an artificial aortic heart valve, I declined. I will also admit that I don't understand what there is about thru hiking. He and I have hiked 30 miles with 35 pound packs on our back on the WRT. We've also climbed 14,000 ft mountains, woke up to sub-freezing temperatures, and dug our share of cat holes. I even tolerated a 2

mountain goat a few feet away watching, waiting for me to finish my business one time. The longest I have been out on a trail is three days. I knew that any discomfort would end soon. The discomfort of lost toenails, blisters, sore pack shoulders, and three days of being dirty, sore, and exhausted were enough for me. So, I wonder, what drives PCT thru hikers? Are they nuts, crazy, thrill seekers, or maybe suicidal? We have had conversations about it. I have read blogs, reports, books, watched videos and still do not understand. When he asked me if I would be his cyberbase support assistant, I agreed. We talked about what message he wanted to communicate. I suggested he help me answer the questions of 'Why?" Why do these people do it?

The nature and thrills on the trail has been discussed, recorded, photographed and written many times. You can see that on many blogs. That I get. What I don't get is: "Why?"

Here's why... - 2018-03-14 ~ An answer to my Dad's "Why?" question ~

My Dad on more than one occasion asked me why I like thru-hiking so much. He asked me during the time I was planning to hike the Colorado Trail in 2016. He asked again when we hiked into Chicago Basin in the San Juan range in Colorado for a few days. I also remember him asking me this during a couple of backpacking trips we had done on the WRT and STS trails in Pennsylvania. The answer I gave may not have communicated my reasons very well, because he still asks me this as I prepare for the PCT. I know his train of thought is probably shared by many people, so I will do my best to communicate the "why" in this post. Or maybe more accurately, my goal is to answer the question of, "Why do I choose voluntarily to suffer so much?" Thru-hiking has been described by many people in many ways. There are some undeniable facts about thru-hiking that share a common thread in all these descriptions. Suffering Yes, we hunt endlessly for water. Sometimes we filter water from questionable sources and when we drink it, it sometimes tastes like cow shit. Yes, we are ALWAYS hungry. I mean, seriously hungry. At mile four-hundred-something on the Colorado Trail, I picked up a jelly bean I found in the middle of the trail in the dirt. I didn't even brush it off. I just popped that purple beauty in my mouth and kept walking, now with a slightly wider smile. Yes, we are in pain nearly all the time. Ankles twist. Knees hyperextend. Feet get bone bruises 4

or plantar fasciitis. Feet also get blisters. Backs get bulging disks from sleeping on the ground. Hips and shoulders get bruised and sore from our backpacks. Chaffing happens. Poison oak happens. Yellow jackets happen. Mosquitos happen. And blisters get blisters. It all can lead to very real pain.

Suffering on a hike on a rather wet trail near Crystal Peak in Colorado And even if you avoid the physical pains, there's plenty of tests of one's mental toughness too. Everything can test your commitment to finishing the goal. All of the above physical challenges with or without a side of any combination of the following: Stifling heat, dangerous thunderstorms, endless days of rain, snow, rivers raging with snowmelt to ford, fierce cold winds, nights with coyotes howling so close it sounds like they are in the tent next to you, brutal unrelenting sun, forest fires, road walks on dangerous highways thanks to trail closures, spiders, snakes, bears, mountain lions, sleep deprivation, loneliness, hiking alone, creepy day hikers, dehydration, sunburn, tents that rip, sleeping pads that can't be patched, running out of food, running out of whiskey, smelling so bad that you don't even notice, not making enough miles each day, etc. All of these unknown variables is commonly described as "adventure". Adventure begins where plans aren't. Some see it as adventure, others see it as suffering. Often adventure and 5

suffering are inseparable. Mental suffering is rooted in people's fears. Conquering these fears is what leads to the thrill factor. For example, you also can't have the thrill of white-water rafting without the dangerous rapids and the freezing cold water. You have not truly lived if you have never risked dying. And then there's worrying about resupplying which often involves trying to fit into the odd hours of the U.S. Postal Service. And there's the people that can't seem to leave their "real life" behind. They worry about jobs, family, and money. These are the ones that leave the trail first usually. That all being said, everything is perspective. We're really not suffering, at least not like refuges of war, or people made homeless by natural disasters. We suffer in our own thru-hiker way and the best part about that is we are all suffering together. This brings me to my next point. Camaraderie Having a common goal and having to endure through tough conditions builds a level of camaraderie that simply cannot be found in most people's day to day lives. Unless maybe those people are in certain jobs that build a similar level of camaraderie. A couple examples I can think of are a small unit in the military or maybe a fire fighting unit. That being said, some of us, myself included long for this level of friendship. In my experience having this deep level of bonding requires a few things: 1. 2. 3. 4.

Trust A shared goal, mission, or even a shared enemy. Time Conversation

Trust Trust is built more quickly on the trail than off the trail. It's primarily built quicker because the stakes are higher. On the trail, the stakes are high since it's ultimately one's survival or suffering that is at stake. Therefore, trust can be built with simple acts of kindness like when navigation skills are shared, knowledge is shared, food is shared, etc. Because, when these things are shared, you may be saving someone from an immense amount of suffering or maybe even worse. Simple day to day things on the trail build trust. When someone saves you a bit of walking by sharing information about an off-trail water source being dry, that builds trust. When someone with extra food offers you a protein bar when you are still 10 miles away from your resupply and you have no food, this builds trust. A shared goal, mission, or even a shared enemy Thru hikers have a shared goal of finishing the trail. While many hikers have other goals of how they want to hike or things they want to do along the way, the end goal allows people to bond so much easier since that end goal is never a doubt. And common enemies bond people quickly too. This is seen in wars in history and in many other situations in life. In school, I remember fighting my brother in the cafeteria until someone else decided they'd get involved. This third party was not welcome in our fight. My brother and I didn't even say anything to each other, it was just understood. With a new common enemy my brother and I immediately stopped trying to fight each other and turned our attention to this unwelcome person trying to interrupt our fraternal bonding.

Sometimes, on the trail, the common enemy is the weather, or the trail conditions, or Texans continually driving by and waving while you are hitchhiking to town. Time The more opportunities over time to share in misery or share beautiful sights allows time for bonding. There's a lot of time available with walking over 2600 miles.

Conversation Nowadays with smart phones, social media, and people becoming even more isolated from one another, conversation is a dying skill. That being said, real face to face conversation has a power to bond people more than any other type of communication. Being on the trail and having plenty of places with no cell signal, offers a unique opportunity today for actual people talking with one another. When you mix trust, with a shared goal, and add a little time and good conversation... you literally are creating camaraderie. Where else can you do this?

Trust is built on days like this.

Perspective On a thru-hike, one can go for weeks or months without most of the luxuries we all take for granted: running water, electricity, heat, air conditioning, showers, Netflix, the internet, food 8

that is not rehydrated, flushing toilets, fresh fruit & vegetables, transportation, clean clothes, a comfy couch to sit on, lights at night, etc. When you live with these luxuries every day, you get used to them. Eventually most people will lose an appreciation for them. Many people probably cannot even fathom living without these things. However, when you go without these things, and voluntarily give them up, you actually gain so much. You gain perspective. When you go months, maybe your happiest months ever, and realize you did it all with just the possessions in your backpack, but with people you love like family. It leads to asking yourself healthy questions, perspective based questions. Suddenly you realize the kind of car you drive means nothing. The house you live in means nothing. The things you own mean nothing. Everything is the experiences you have and the people you share them with.

This is what matters. Moments with people you love.

Nature

Lastly, being in nature for weeks or months on end is just a healthy thing. People weren't meant to be stuck inside without natural light. Leave whatever screen you are reading this on and go outside. This is what you are missing.

Pre-hike jitters - 2018-04-09 Being able to sleep again is the only reason I am hiking the PCT this year. That and maybe getting the opportunity to start a inter-species fight club with mountain lions, marmots, mountain goats, and aggressive cows.

If it's your first night at Fight Club... you HAVE to fight.

Tyler Durden seen here training for his fight with a mountain goat.

In case my sarcasm is lost in translation to the keyboard from my east coast trained brain, I will elaborate with a touch of gravitas. Alright, I lied, there's nothing serious in this post at all, other than maybe the following statement. The planning involved for a PCT thru hike is significant.

The regular PCT planning FAQs (if there was such a thing) would probably resemble the same questions someone might ask if coming over for a party. • • • • • • •

What should I wear? What food & drinks should I bring? How many/what kind of people are going to be there? What's the weather going to be like? Is there a place for me to sleep if I get too drunk? Is it 420 friendly? Etc...

The simple stuff regarding gear decisions, I have mostly figured out from previous backpacking trips, and thru hiking the Colorado Trail in 2016. I also know from my Colorado Trail hike that these jitters are all bullshit. To steal a quote from Ecclesiastes "All of this is meaningless, a chasing after the wind". Yet. I. Can. Not. Stop. Thinking. My mind is like a kitten on Adderall laced catnip playing with ball of yarn. Just going and going and no end in sight. It is constantly firing little questions and comments, and they often snowball or build upon one another. For those of you who don't live with anxiety, this is how those of us who do think sometimes. And yes my thoughts have the same sarcasm and often resemble a conversation. Yeah, I talk to myself; don't judge me. : ) The thought train wreck looks like this... Hmmm, I wonder if I should resupply between Tehachapi and Kennedy Meadows. Nah, it's such a long ass hitch to Lake Isabella. That'd waste an entire day, just to go get food for another 50 miles of hiking to Kennedy Meadows. Yeah, what was I thinking, after all, it's "only" 136 miles with measurable elevation gain, through the driest, maybe windiest, and possibly hottest section of the PCT where I'll be carrying 6-7 liters of water at a time and hiking through loose sand while dodging Poodle Dog Bush and rattlesnacks; why wouldn't I want to carry 7 or 8 days of food through this section to add to all that suffering? Wait.. what the hell is a 'rattlesnack'? While it sounds like a tasty treat hiker-hunger could 12

dispose of quickly, I think you meant 'rattlesnakes'. Anyway, you've hiked in the desert before, just night-hike 20s for seven days straight and wait out the heat in the shade.

Yeah, shade... whatever. Argghhh... guess I should resupply in Lake Isabella. No, fuck that, you can do this. Um... no I can't. What's the worst that could happen? Death by dehydration or heat stroke is a noble death right? Why should I even care if my death is "noble". I'm not a fucking king. You're right, a king would have someone else carrying his 7 liters of water and 8 days of food thru the Mojave desert. Maybe you could carry less water and rely on the water caches that are "usually" around in this section. Relying on water caches seems like a dumb plan and a great way to accomplish your 'noble death'. Argghh... maybe I should have hiked the AT instead.... at least they have fucking water. 13

No, the AT also has more bugs. Fuck bugs. Yeah, that's true the desert only has FUCKING SPIDERS! On that note, I'm going to get a beer or two, or nine; one for each day until I begin this adventure.

Lumbergh (2018-04-09 21:00:58) You forgot the scorpions that are in the desert. Assuming you survive as far as nor cal and Oregon you'll have an opportunity to try to out run swarms of mosquitoes. :-)

Adam Wilbur (2018-04-10 11:31:41) Ah yes, the hoards of mosquitoes, don't bring me into reality yet, I am trying to pretend like those don't exist right now. That also reminds me of the African bees in S. Cali that chase hikers for a thousand yards or so. I can't wait for that either. :)

Fred Wilbur (2018-04-10 04:54:01) Hum, your comment: "Yet. I. Can. Not. Stop. Thinking." is familiar. I often have days like this and I'm not planning on exposing myself to suffering, repetitive step syndrome, increased risk of dying, ridicule from more experienced triple-crown thru hiker trash, and meeting people who are, most likely, more crazy than you. I have days like this when your brain feels like a runaway train, and your ability to focus on one thought is interrupted with wonder and alternatives. I attribute this to getting old, early unsought of elder ADD or DAADD (Dementia Activated Attention Deficit Disorder). But you can't claim that. Pre-hike jitters must be normal. What may be abnormal is that you are willing giving up comfort, beds, warm cooked meals, shelter, clean cloths, warm showers, and the Internet so you can walk, walk, and walk to see, smell, feel and experience parts of the country that probably less .05% of the humans in the US have seen. No wonder you have pre-hike jitters. But you are a Wilbur. With that name comes a genetically pre-disposition to curiosity, adventure, thinking, and tenacity. Wilbur's have been known to overcome the many trials and tribulations of what 14

the world throws at them. They are also known to throw some trials and tribulations at themselves. You got this man! A few quotes to ponder: "Those at the top of the mountain didn't fall there" (Marcus Washling) "No one ever achieved greatness playing it safe" (Harry Gray) "You can get to Canada by walking, but you may have to kill a few spiders to do it." (Fred Wilbur)

Johanna Greenough (2018-04-10 16:50:50) Dad is right. You will miss clean cloths. You may miss clothes too. Johanna Greenough (2018-04-10 05:38:11) I, too, have runaway brain syndrome. I have channeled it into useful stuff, mostly. You are channeling it into walking a few thousand miles. I, too, noticed the conspicuous lack of mention of scorpions in this post. I can live with bugs, and with spiders. But scorpions. I am out. It's all mental, of course - except the physical hiking through the desert and up some mountains and eating way less than usual and burning trillions of calories and avoiding invertebrates with stingy tails. No, not tails that are stingy and don't want to bring gifts to the holiday. Sting-y as in "ow"! That stings when you poke me with a scorpion tail. But really it's all mental. Most stuff is. Good luck and may the odds be ever in your favor. Fred Wilbur (2018-04-10 08:41:39) To quote Yogi, it's 90% mental and the other half is physical. Johanna Greenough (2018-04-10 05:47:38) Also: rattlesnacks? I love that word. Love the idea. Off to go find some breakfast that rattles now.

Dotty (2018-04-10 08:41:54) Love, love, love your blogs! Brain chaos is part of your inheritance from Dad and I. It's really not so bad when it leads to writing like this. Can't help wondering how I got so lucky to have a family like this one. By the way, what's with being up at 4 in the morning (Fred & Johanna) and actually being lucid. Adam Wilbur (2018-04-10 11:24:48) Right, 4:30am? That's what I was thinking. Fred Wilbur (2018-04-10 11:32:13) Did I just post the answer to that? Where did it go. Your blog appears to be in local CO time. It was 6:30 am my time. Johanna Greenough (2018-04-10 16:49:47) I don't do much at 4:30 am unless Adam is dragging me up a 14er

Day 1: 4/19/18 - 2018-04-20 11:25

PCT - Day 1: 4/19/18 Trail Miles. 0.0 - 16.7 Miles: 17.5

It was about what you’d picture one’s first day on the PCT. My interactions with people have been mostly superficial thus far. It’s a bit more challenging for me since most everyone else met the previous night at a trail angel’s house and were shuttled to the trail head together. It was 40 degrees and windy at 7 am, which made my goodbye with Siona go too quickly. I can only imagine her emotions while driving away from the Mexican border, having just dropped me off at the border fence knowing we won’t see one another for several months.

Once I was hiking, the miles ticked off quickly, and my normally racing thoughts were unusually silenced for the most part. For most of the day, the weather was overcast and rain with continuous wind. The rain was light and didn’t bother me really. I only took a couple of breaks all day and made camp at early at 2:15 pm about 16.7 miles in to allow my body to ease into this. The views were good today with the sun peeking it’s head out from time to time to give a richer tone to the color of the blooming desert.

I have a my first PCT blister already!! And you’ll never guess, but I’ve learned to breathe sand and dirt too!

Sarcasm aside, I’m finally back at it, and I couldn’t be happier. I am also very lucky to have received so 17

much support from my family and friends. It’s so encouraging just knowing you’re all pulling for me. Thank you!

I’m trying to remember to have fun. I am fully embracing a saying from my buddy, Power Thighs, whom I met on the CT. Just before I started this hike, he said this “Last one to Canada wins!”.

Fun will have to wait a couple hours, for now is nap time (it’s only 3:35 pm). I sleep just so I can wake up and eat in a couple hours, watch a sunset, read my book, and go back to sleep.

Dan Altenes (2018-04-20 12:47:51) Great miles for Day 1!!! Hike on and be safe......

Day 2: 4/20/18 - 2018-04-21 16:30

PCT - Day 2: 4/20/18 Trail miles: 17.3 from 16.7 - 34.0 Miles hiked: 19.9

I tossed and turned a lot last night. One of the times I woke up, I realized everything was covered in moisture and I was in a cloud. I then woke up an hour later to a Border Patrol chopper flying through Hauser Creek basin.

Hit the trail around 6:40am and cruised for almost five miles before seeing anyone. Hiked in the morning with a couple fun German guys, a dude from Belgium, and then had lunch at Boulder Oaks in the shade of a huge tree. At lunch there were Germans, an Irish guy, an Egyptian woman, and a guy from Ohio. Warning: TMI ahead, read at risk of being grossed out. I left lunch early around 11am and the tortuous part of my day began. Uphill a couple thousand feet over 6 miles or so, and I was baking hot and battling a numb right thigh, which appears to have gotten worse since I did nerve damage to it in September with a fall on Crestone Peak. I also had some painful ass chafing beginning, which all the normal means to attempt to heal (wet wipes, gold bond powder, body glide, etc) it was not working.

Suddenly my attention was drawn to something other than friction destroying my butt cheeks. I pushed quickly past an angry swarm of Africanized bees (killer bees) that apparently had a nest very close to the trail.

At Mile 31 my day became a bit strange, five minutes after the bees, I see a guy with a huge beer gut came strolling down the trail and other than shoes and a backpack, he was COMPLETELY NUDE. I passed him and just nonchalantly said “Sup bruh?” Seeing I was slowly dying in the heat, he offered back “There’s shade about a half a mile up.” I thanked him and we parted ways, him with his tiny junk bouncing with each step, and me just shaking my head and thinking about one goal.... shade. A hundred yards later, I remembered the bees, and wondered about how Mr. Pants-Are-Just-Too-Much-For-Me made out with those angry bees. They say the trail provides, and this naked guy gave me an idea. At the next somewhat secluded spot, I stopped, stripped off my boxers which were drenched in sweat and decided I would let my boys breathe the rest of the day to see if that helped my chafing problem. At mile 32.6, Fred Canyon Road, I came across a “trail magic” sign. This was shortly after a sign that warned of unexploded explosives in the area. I didn’t care about explosives, but I did care about trail magic, and it directed me downhill 0.8 miles off the PCT to Cibbetts Flat Campground.

Hum, how do the bombs get here? I hauled ass down the hill and was welcomed to a growing group of hiker trash with an ice cold Rolling Rock, a hit off a joint (it is 4/20 after all), two cold Gatorades, a fresh orange, and a bowl full of pollo asada, beans, sautĂŠed peppers and onions, salsa, and fresh guacamole.

Trail Magic It blows my mind that complete strangers are so kind. I couldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve hugged everyone! I will be forever grateful to all the trail angels, even though I only remember two names; Fruit Bowl and Tacos & Beer.

Hiker Trash After eating and leaving a donation, I pressed on for two reasons; I wanted to bite off more of the elevation gain to Mt Laguna to avoid doing it in the heat tomorrow, and also because my social anxiety was rearing itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ugly head, even though I was having a ton of fun with my new friends. And, if Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m being honest, I wanted some privacy to be able to sleep in the nude in my tent to hopefully alleviate this dreadful chafing issue. So, with a full belly, and a smile, I hiked back up to the PCT and a short way up the trail to where I lie now. Tomorrow, I get my first resupply, which is good, because I am already destroying food on sight.

End of Day 2 Peace out, hiker midnight (9pm) is approaching fast, and I still have two more mint Oreos to eat. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve only had six so far while writing this. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll eat the last two in company with Orion and the Big Dipper.

Johanna Greenough (2018-04-21 18:23:45) Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m happy for your trail magic! Keep going! The story about the naked hiker cracked me and Mom up (I am here and read it to her).

PCT - Day 3: 4/21/18 - 2018-04-22 12:58

PCT - Day 3: 4/21/18 Trail miles: 18.6 from 34.0 to 52.6 Miles hiked: 19.3

Right as I went to sleep last night, a guy startled me awake hiking down the trail singing â&#x20AC;&#x153;The water lineâ&#x20AC;? by Sage Francis. I never really got back to sleep. I tossed and turned and the stars kept me company.

The dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hiking began at 6:20am. I was slogging along until I threw some music on. Bees chased me again, and with my chafing problem gone, I solo hiked the 8.5 miles to Mt. Laguna by 9:00am. I bummed around Laguna for a couple hours and got to take my first shower in a few days. I then picked up my resupply package and hit the trail again at 11:00am.

The weather was kind to us today. Thin wispy clouds blocked just enough of the sun to make it bearable. Lizards jumped out of the way as I lumbered through the desert chatting with Alon for a bit.

Lunch was at a roadside trailhead where shade seeking hiker trash consumed all available shade. We shared laughs as I personally put away about a 1500 calorie lunch.

After lunch, I loaded up with 6.5 liters of water to go along with my fresh resupply of food and zombiehiked another 5.1 miles grueling hot trail, when shade was about as rare as a 3-legged dog. It exists, but to see one is rare.

I’m cowboy camping tonight, mostly because I give zero fucks about bugs, squirrels, or snakes crawling on me. I’m too tired to care. No tent means a quick escape in the morning before it gets too hot. I’ll be carrying about 6 liters of water and will try to cover a 25 mile stretch of trail that has no trustworthy water sources. The goal is to reach Scissors Crossing.

More of my toes have blisters now. I showered today and I’m already filthy again. I still can’t feel my right thigh. That all being said, I love this trail already. I can’t wait to do it all over again tomorrow. The map below shows Adam's campsite at the end of day 4:

PCT - Day 4: 4/22/18 - 2018-04-23 09:34

PCT - Day 4: 4/22/18 Trail miles: 15.8 from 52.6 - 68.4 Miles hiked: 18.3

The stars last night was amazing! I may never use a tent again. I awoke at 5:05 am and was on trail for a beautiful sunrise. By 8 am it was brutally hot already. I slogged miles under the relentless sun. Even though there was a ton of people on the trail, I hiked alone for the most part. I am noticing the PCT thus far anyway, has cliques. So far I have not really found â&#x20AC;&#x153;my groupâ&#x20AC;?.

About 7.5 miles in, I found a pile of hikers sitting by some trail magic where someone had dropped a cooler full of grapefruit. I ate one and took another for later. I only had 3.5 liters of water and a 35

grapefruit to make it another 18 miles to Scissors Crossing where there is a reliable water cache.

After 11 am, the sun was intense. I stopped and laid under a bush to get into the shade. I was lying two feet away from a pile of coyote shit and flies buzzed me for a couple hours as I tried to wait out the heat. I couldn't have cared less. The shade was golden.

Eventually my brainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never ending urge to keep moving won out and I headed back into the sun and tried to make miles. I was seriously dehydrated and rationing water. I was down to 2 liters with 13.4 miles left to Scissors Crossing. I knew I was in a dangerous spot, and I hung all hopes on an off trail water source that was about 4 miles further on the PCT and 1 mile off trail.

Hiking through the afternoon heat while rationing water was made slightly easier by sharing humorous conversation with a new friend, Tim. Tim is one of many people Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve met from Germany. We bonded over our shared suffering and our hatred of spiders.

We luckily found water in what can only be described as a magical oasis. We were engulfed in desert. Dirt and sand was everywhere. We hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seen anything that even looked remotely like a water source for fifteen miles. Then we rounded a corner, and there was a field of green grass with a horse and a water tank that was fed by a beautiful spring. I drank three liters of water and filtered another 4 for the remainder of the hike to Scissors Crossing tomorrow. I learned a painful lesson today and probably had near heat stroke as a result. WATER IS GOLD! Now hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the confession part of this post. I left our camp spot at mile 52.6 this morning with 6.5 liters of water. I stopped about 5 miles into my day and looked at the water report again and thought it was likely that there was water cached 7.5 miles in. So, I made a gamble... a very bad gamble. I stopped and dumped 1.5 liters of water to lighten my load since my feet and ankles were in full suffer mode. Later that day, I would have paid $100 for an extra liter. To make matters worse, I learned later that 1/4 mile off the PCT from the grapefruit was a cooler filled with ice cold Gatorade.

Now, I’m cowboy camped and thankful that my heat stroke was not too bad. I’m sharing this windy spot with a big group of hiker trash. There’s about 25-30 of us and it’s a group that is growing on me. I’m camped hoping I won’t have ANOTHER giant beetle crawl across me tonight. I’m also hoping the lone coyote several of us heard growling and saw at the water source doesn’t pay me a visit. And he'd better not fuck with my food bag either, I still have white chocolate M&Ms to eat. I’m hoping to shower and do laundry in Jullian tomorrow. My light blue shirt is brown now. My socks make poofs of dust when I touch them. After that, I have a whole new 24 mile section without water to look forward to. I am nearly 100% sure I am night hiking that section. Below is the map showing Adam's spots - normally his campsites at the end of the day: The red tent icon is his latest spot location (day 4).

Fred Wilbur (2018-04-23 09:51:10) So, what is the story about the snake? Is it a rattle snake? Also, who did you get the Gatorade Aid? And at the campsite picture, there is a telephone pole in the background? What's with that?

Ashley Smith (2018-05-02 17:13:38) I think as part of my preparation I need to hold some snakes, huge insects and a tarantula. Get over my fears!

PCT - Day 5: 4/23/18 - Mountain Lion! - 2018-04-24 06:46

PCT - Day 5: 4/23/18 Trail miles: 14.0 from 68.4 - 82.4 Miles hiked: 15.5

I haven’t slept good at all thus far thanks to an uncomfortable sleeping pad. I’m trying to remedy that with having Siona send me a heavier but more comfortable one. It’s still 100 miles away. To add to my discomfort my intestines decided that 3:30 am was a good time to explode. So after my mad dash from sleeping bag to a cat-hole, I just packed up and hit the trail at 4:00 am in attempt to beat the heat. I had 8.7 miles remaining to Scissors Crossing where there is a water cache under a highway overpass.

Daylight view of the trail similar to where Mountain Lion was encountered I was hiking alone by headlamp when I saw eyes glowing in front of me about 30 - 40 feet up a hill to my right. I hoped it was a desert deer or maybe a coyote, but it FOLLOWED me! Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d round a corner, it would round a corner 30 feet above me. It moved silently. I was a bit scared it was a mountain lion and then my fears were confirmed when my headlamp was close enough to see it clearly. Adrenaline filled my body immediately and I was readying myself for a fight. I did not run, and tried to maintain eye contact while still walking away and avoiding cacti on the trail. This cat and mouse (I was the mouse) game went on for fifteen minutes. I was talking shit at the lion in attempt to scare it away, and apparently mountain lions donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t like Massholes because he eventually stopped following me.

Carmen Once I reached Scissors Crossing ,a large group of us hitchhiked into the town of Julian where we spent most of the day at Carmenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s place. Carmen opens her place to PCT hikers out of the kindness of her heart. She gives everyone a free beer, an opportunity to do laundry, a tub of cold water to soak feet in, a place to just chill out and rest. She and the others that take care of us hikers are the most amazing kind of people. Not to mention the great folks that carted a ton of us thru hikers and packs to and from the trail.

I washed my socks, boxers, and shirt in a wash tub. I then hung out with some awesome people, shared a ton of laughs, and ate the best cheeseburger Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve ever had. Somewhere along the way, I gave my German friend a trail name of Paint Peeler. My German friends decided to stay in town, and I headed back to the trail with a new friend I met yesterday named Whiplash.

Underpass shade Tonight was the most enjoyable and fun day Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had yet, but it was not without suffering. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just too hot to hike from 10:30 till about 3:30, so when Whiplash and I made it back to the trail at 2:30, we just kicked it under the overpass which was the only shade for several miles for an hour or so.

cowboy camping Whiplash and I are currently cowboy camping on an exposed desert ridge. Water is nowhere in sight, except for the 6 liters I carried up here.

Whiplash is a great guy who I hope to maintain contact with. We were also joined by Sierra and her friend Wine Troll. Sierra has been on trail for 4 weeks already. She has blisters so bad on her feet that they look like their pregnant with other blisters.

Wine Troll got his trail name today when he started drinking a random bottle of wine he found under the bridge. I love these people. I love this trail, even though it is trying to kill me. Back at it again in 7 hours... over and out.

The map showing Adam's progress is now on its own page. Click on "PCT - Track Adam" under the Header picture.

Fred Wilbur (2018-04-24 06:59:44) 47

Too bad you could not get a photo of those eyes glaring at you. But, then again, maybe a flash of your camera may have just trigger the mountain lion to attack. Other than beating it with your iPhone, what weapon did you have to fight it off with? Have you been given a new trail name yet? Maybe 'Cool Dad' works.

Johanna Greenough (2018-04-24 08:07:17) Massholes probably taste terrible.

Chris Wilbur (2018-04-28 07:14:29) Sounds like you got lucky bro!

Ashley Smith (2018-05-02 17:23:42) What's a Masshole? I thought it was a typo to start with! (What impresses me is bloggers not doing any typos after a day hiking like that. I typo in a warm bed after a pretty easy day. You've probably spotted so.e already!

Fred Wilbur (2018-05-06 16:20:59) Ashley, a Masshole is a contemptuous term for a native or inhabitant of the state of Massachusetts.

PCT - Day 6 4/24/18 - Past 100 miles! - 2018-04-25 08:04

Trail miles: 18.7 from 82.4 - 101.1 Miles hiked: 19.5

I finally slept a bit! Well for about four hours, but that is way better than usual. This was thanks to putting music on my headphones before sleeping. I woke up at 4:30am with Busta Rhymes playing in my ears.

Trail in morning light Packing up my cowboy camp is so fast. I just throw everything in my backpack and get moving.

PCT water is gold I cranked out nine miles to a water cache before 9:30am. I filled up with 4 liters and listened to a touching story from a veteran named Hollywood whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s out here hiking the PCT after over ten tours of duty in Iraq.

sharing water with bees and a turkey At the water cache others mentioned seeing a rattlesnake on the short trail from the PCT to the cache. I mentioned that I hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seen a rattlesnake yet. As fate would have it, thirty minutes later I was hiking and scanning the ground when suddenly I hear a loud rattle and hissing. I instinctively retreated backwards and nearly fell down into a ravine. I spotted the rattlesnake sitting on a branch of a shrub about eye level. The Iraq veteran and his buddies showed up and after he led the careful step & jump along the edge of the trail near the ravine edge, I then followed, as did everyone else. Three minutes later, our group stopped again due to another rattlesnake in the trail.

The sun got really hot at 11:30am, so I dove under a small bush and caught a tiny bit of shade and tried to wait out at least an hour or two of the most brutal sun while listening to music and eating junk food and occasionally looking over my shoulder for rattlesnakes.

Afternoon trailI felt strong for a good portion of the day. I did almost 19 miles today and I feel like I could’ve done more. Both of my small toe blisters have turned to calluses too. I am currently very gross. I haven’t showered in several days, and other than washing my socks, boxers, and shirt in a plastic tub without soap, I haven’t done laundry yet. I am looking forward to my first zero day, but I still have a few days before I arrive in Idyllwild.

Mile 100 Today I passed the 100 mile mark and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m encouraged about how my body seems to be adjusting to trail life again. This first hundred miles was much nicer to my feet than the first hundred on the CT. I think I have my Brooks Cascadia shoes to thank for that.

Tonight at camp, after filtering and using chemical treatment on our water, I just hung out with Katie, Brent, and Ranger and shared lots of good conversation including telling Ranger our terrifying experience with two rattlesnakes today. Ranger and I bonded immediately. Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in his sixties or so and is also a veteran. He is hilarious and a total hiking machine. I love trail family. These people are so special to me.

dusty trail flowers Tomorrow Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll head into Warner Springs and pick up a resupply and hopefully find a way to wash my clothes and take a shower. Tonight I sleep with the sounds of frogs that are probably feeding on the flies at the spring. The flies took over as the sun went down and the bees retreated to the hive and the wild turkey retreated to who knows where.

The map showing Adam's progress is now on its own page. Click on "PCT - Track Adam" or on the tab under the Header picture.

PCT - Day 7: 4/25/18 - "Circus Act" - 2018-04-26 04:42

Trail miles: 17.5 from 101.1 - 118.6 Miles hiked: 20.5

Eagle Rock I raced into Warner Springs for resupply this morning with a quick stop for a scramble up Eagle Rock.

Flip Flop (hiker feet) In town, I ran into a guy named Flip Flop. He was apparently having problems with his shoes, so he hiked the last 65 miles in Walmart flip-flops. PCT hikers like this never quit.

65 miles this flip flop Nearo1 days are full of chores. I tried to balance the chores with periods of fun. As a side note, the people of Warner Springs are great. After giving myself a bucket shower and hand washing my clothes, and doing toe surgery to remove and ingrown toenail, I then volunteered an hour of my time and helped take trash out, post updated water reports in the hiker hut, etc. Whiplash and I then rolled into town thanks to a ride from a trail angel named Ghost and picked up my resupply package. I also sent home a few pieces of gear that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not using and ate a burger at the restaurant with the slowest service on the planet. It was a damn good burger; not as good as Carmenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s though.

hiker cows waiting to be burgers Whiplash and I walked the 1.something miles back from town. We are both struggling with minor intestinal ailments. I really hope one of these shitty water sources didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t contaminate me in some way. I have been filtering everything and treating the extra nasty sources with Aqua Mira. Mine stomach problems seems to ?maybe? be getting better. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see tomorrow I guess.

I also received a trail name today. My name is now Circus Act. When I was walking into town, I was juggling my trekking poles because I have slowly morphed into a trekking pole trick artist. This is a trail boredom addiction I have embraced thanks to my buddy Power Thighs from the CT. Anyways, a town local saw me and she said “Is your name Juggler?” I just smiled and laughed. Later that afternoon, apparently the story of my mountain lion encounter has been spreading in the thru hiker community, so when I was packing up my backpack, a girl walked by and said “Hi Cougar Tamer”. I smiled and explained the name “Cougar Tamer” could be taken a couple different ways so I politely rejected that name too. Then when I was walking out of town and ran into the same local. I told her that I am apparently a “Juggler” and a “Lion Tamer”, and then I also mentioned my wife suggested the name “Clown shoes” since I’m wearing two different color shoes. She then said, “That all just sounds like a Circus Act”. So I guess I’m Circus Act now.

I rolled out of town about 3pm and was quickly joined by Ranger. We covered just over nine more miles and we plopped our tents down just after sunset. This was in addition to the 8.5 we did in the morning. Ranger is a quality guy with values, integrity, and class. And the guy is a hiking machine! He said this 17.5 mile day is the shortest day heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s done thus far. Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 62 years old and his fitness level puts me to shame.

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve made a Saturday hotel reservation in Idyllwild. I have to cover 64 miles before then. Side note: I weighed myself in Warner Springs. I havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t lost a single pound yet. Guess I need to push more miles. 1.Nearo or Nero (noun): Nearly a Zero. A day when you only hike very few miles. Neros often occur when a thru-hiker arrives in a trail town and needs to take care of resupply, laundry, and other town activities before heading back on the trail.

Johanna Greenough (2018-04-27 05:54:17) How can you call that day a nearo when you hiked 20 miles??

Adam Wilbur (2018-04-27 23:57:03) Good point. I guess I get confused when a town stop is involved.

Chris Wilbur (2018-04-28 07:22:35) Lost no weright? Wow!

Day 8 - A dad wonders - 2018-04-27 08:57

Day 8 and there is no email from Adam, yet. Maybe he does not have an cell single to send it to me. There was a spot received last night saying he was OK. I estimated he did 22 miles yesterday. But... I wonder.... Remember the picture he took on day 7 in the field where there were cows blocking the tail?

trail cows waiting to be burgers Remember that yesterday Adam reported: "...and ate a burger at the restaurant with the slowest service on the planet. It was a damn good burger; not as good as Carmenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s though." Well do you think it is possible that those two cows on the trail realized that Adam ate a bugger - in two locations?

Cow coversation

Do you think maybe they followed him to his camp site and after he fell to sleep they ..... My imagination runs away with me. Cows can't operate a spot can they?

PCT - Day 8: 4/26/18 - Body Report - 2018-04-27 12:12

Trail miles: 21.6 from 118.6 - 140.2 Miles hiked: 23.0 [Dad editorial comment: Adam's email arrived shortly after I posted the ' A Dad Wonders' post]

Good morning from the PCT It’s day eight and time for a status check on how my body is holding up. The long story short is that while I’m writing this laying in my tent at camp, almost everything in my body hurts. Here’s the report card: Head (mental toughness): B I have moments where I really hate the desert, usually when I’m drinking from sone really shitty water source, but mostly I’m embracing the suck. My digestive problems: C- I think I might have some intestinal parasite or bacterial infection. Time will tell. Imodium did the trick today. My recently broken elbow: A- I’m only dealing with minor stiffness and pain at nighttime Knees: B- My knees are doing better than I thought they would be at this point, but that’s likely due to 66

my high intake of Vitamin I. Ankles: C My right ankle continues to be a pain in the ass, ever since the brutal injury in 2013, but most of my problems now are Achilles tendinitis in both ankles.

A hiker's foot Feet: C- My feet are very sore and I am really looking forward to a zero day (or two) in Idyllwild. I still have to finish a removal of an ingrown toenail that had me hobbling for the first mile today. Two blisters remain at this point. One on a toe on my left foot and one on my heel of my right foot. Again, zero days are needed for proper recovery. My right thigh: D This is my biggest concern at this point. I have significant numbness and tingling in my right thigh. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s numb from knee to hip during the day, and when I stop and lay in my tent, I tingles endlessly like my leg is hosting a pin and needle party. 67

Dehydration & Snicks The theme for this day was hydration or the lack there of. I started my day out like I have the last four, with a mad dash from the tent at 3:45am thanks to my intestinal parasites waking up early. I borrowed some medicine from Ranger and took off up hill at 5:40am. Up and up and up we went. There was a significant amount of elevation gain this morning, followed by an afternoon descent into the desert heat and blazing sun

Shade is good. Along the way up this morning, I picked up Vagabondâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sleeping pad which I found lying in the trail. I carried it and gave it back to him where I thought Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d find him... at the water source. In the morning Ranger and I had 8.5 miles or so to mile 127 which was the last reliable water source for 24 miles. I glanced at the water report though and saw a water source named Tule Spring at mile 137, so I only filtered 4 liters at mile 127. 68

Ranger made a good observation today. Basically the first 150 miles is really just a exercise in hiking from one water source to the next. I will never look at a glass of clean tap water the same again.

Ranger and I had a blast today with humorous and engaging conversation. I even made a short video during a break about our ailing feet. We discussed how there should be a word for sticks that look like snakes. I hereby dub them â&#x20AC;&#x153;snicksâ&#x20AC;?; not to be confused with Snickers, which is the melted candy bar in your food bag

"Snick" (stick that looks like a snake) When we arrived at Tule Spring we found a murky muddier stagnant mess. It smelled like sulfur and the water had visible brown and orange â&#x20AC;&#x153;floatiesâ&#x20AC;?in it.

Collecting water - uck!I took a closer look at recent reports from this water source (if you could even call it that). I read about dead lizards and snakes found in the water. I also read about someone getting Norovirus from filtering this water but not chemically treating it.

Anyways, the hike to this â&#x20AC;&#x153;springâ&#x20AC;? was off trail a bit and the climb back was brutal. I was rationing the water I did have to avoid drinking this ugly water. I was exhausted by the time we got back to the PCT. We made a valiant effort to make it to a known water cache managed by a trail angel at mile 145.5, but daylight was fading and our feet had enough for the day. Near the end of the day Ranger and I were discussing in detail Mountain Dew. Little tiny bubbles, a color that is somewhere between piss yellow and nuclear waste. We wished for trail magic of Mountain Dew and Gatorade. None was to come.

Look! Civilization and clean water Tomorrow I’ll get to that cache early and drink all the things. I am still very much dehydrated and rationing the last liter of filtered chemical tasting sulfur smelling dead creature norovirus water that I have. Mmmm... you could bottle this stuff and trademark “PCT Water”. The slogan for the commercials would be “PCT Water! Taste the floaties!”

Camp site or just resting in the shade?

Fred Wilbur (2018-04-27 12:28:13) Need to comment about your right thigh numbness issue. From a guy who is plagued with back issues all his life, this sounds like a back vertebra alignment issue. Misalignment can pinch your sciatic nerve and cause this. It may be caused by the backpack weight, walking, and possibly the difference between your right and left leg length, one being 'fixed'. Suggest you look up exercises for piriformis and spine alignment, vitiamin I, and maybe a massage at your next zero day. Xavier (2018-04-27 18:10:23) +1 on getting a massage or visiting a Chiropractor.

Adam Wilbur (2018-04-27 23:53:36) So this numb thigh issue has been present since my fall down Crestone Peak in September. I think walking 20 miles a day is just exasperating it.

Adam Wilbur (2018-04-27 23:54:54) And Dad, that was a snick, not a snake. :)

Fred Wilbur (2018-04-28 07:12:30) Fixed - Snick, snake, snicker, sicker, smitten.

PCT - Day 9: 4/27/18 - Emotional Roller Coaster - 2018-04-28 07:04

Trail miles: 19.6 from 140.2 - 159.8 Miles hiked: 23.4

Trail Rabbit Today was an emotional roller coaster. First, I woke up at 5:45am after SLEEPING ALL NIGHT!

Water Angel Ranger and I hiked to mile 143 for and found the water cache stocked. We dropped $5 in the donation 75

bag and took a couple liters each. Gratitude by itself does not even convey the immense feeling that I get when finding a water cache stocked in the desert. It was sort of sad knowing you’re saying goodbye to a trail buddy. I knew that Ranger was getting off the trail at mile 151.9 and hitchhiking into Idyllwild. I was also getting off trail at mile 151.9 to walk 1 mile to the Paradise Valley Cafe for a burger and a beer, but I would later return to the PCT with intentions of hiking to the place where there’s a trail closure from a fire many years ago.

Mile 150 On the hike towards Paradise Valley Cafe, I realized I lost my sun hat. This sorta sucked, but I made do with two bandannas. When I arrived at the café, I was surprised to see that Whiplash was already there. He had apparently hiked 25 miles the previous night in attempt to catch us, and he apparently camped less than 1/4 of a mile away from where Ranger and I camped last night. 76

Buttons and BurgersAt the café I also met a girl named Surgeon. She and I seemed to connect pretty quickly. She was even kind enough to sew a missing button back onto my shirt while I ate my burger. For the record Paradise Valley Café advertises the best burger on the PCT; it’s not. Carmen’s was way better. Anyway after a lunch filled with many laughs and good stories from the trail, Surgeon, Sunshine, and I made our way towards the road and pretty much immediately got a hitch the 1 mile back to the trail. Whiplash was still packing his resupply and missed the hitch (sorry buddy).

trail beauty Surgeon and I hiked together for a few miles and got to know each other a bit. Our conversation was great, and I opened up to her. I actually got emotional a little bit about a sensitive topic that I talk with very few people about. She consoled me with a smile and a hug.

Pine Tree

Pine Cone This is what I love about the PCT. When you’re on the PCT, you get the opportunity to talk with people a lot and often bonds form so much quicker than in “real life” for reasons I still don’t understand. Examples of this: Surgeon and I met at lunch and I was nearly in tears hugging her about 5 hours later. Ranger and I hiked together for a couple of days, and I would do anything in the world for him. Whiplash and I have hiked and camped together off and on for few days, and I think of him like a brother already.

Evening Light I have feet that hurt so bad that I named them “Hamburger” and “Hamburger Helper”. I was crying tears of pain when hiking this evening by myself down a steep side trail to a spring to get water. Yet... I can never quit this trail. It’s so much more than hurt feet. It’s healing my heart even though it’s also breaking it at the same time. The PCT shows you love from complete strangers is a good thing. Some of these people I’ll never even meet. The PCT is hope. The PCT is torture. The PCT is love. The PCT is whatever you see it as. Some can look at a section of the PCT and just see blazing hot desert with sand and heat that literally chew your feet. Others can see that same section and see beautiful cacti, perfectly symmetrical yucca plants, and endless stars at night.

Setting sunlight Right now, the PCT is my best friend. I just walked up a ton of elevation at sunset with feet that are minced meat, but it was gorgeous. I then proceeded to do a second toe surgery on my right footâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s big toe to remove the rest of an ingrown toenail that I clearly missed the first time. So good night, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m going to hug my best friend (the PCT) and cry myself to sleep now. My feet just need to suffer one more day, and then I can rest them on my zero day.

Camp

PCT - Day 10: 4/28/18 - Idyllwild - 2018-04-29 11:15

Trail miles: 9.8 from 159.8 - 168.6 (re-route on Spitler trail due to fire closure up to 178.0.)Miles hiked: 15.1

Morning ViewThe sunrise landed a few rays of sun on me as I was finishing packing up my isolated camp. I made myself a smoothie (thanks Packit Gourmet) for breakfast. It was delicious!

One of many lizardsI hiked the entire day without crossing paths with any other NOBO hikers. I did see a 83

day hiker and I was catching some rays on the saddle between Apache and Spitler peaks. Mostly, I saw lots of lizards. They would climb on a rock and pose for me. Sometimes they would run down the trail in the direction I was walking so it appeared like a lizard / hiker race.

The climb up to the Spitler Trail was arduous. My energy level was low mostly due to lack of rest days and poor sleep, but partially because of feeling isolated.

On the way to IdyllwildAt the saddle with the junction of the Spitler trail, I just laid down and listened to music for an hour. I thought about my brothers, my sister, my daughter, my wife, and my puppies.

Good place for thoughtsMy feet are getting worse. I had an issue with my gaiters and the sand getting in my shoes has resulted in multiple blisters.

Dusty TrailI also rolled my right ankle twice today on the 2000 ft descent on the Spitler Trail. Once I reached Apple Valley road, I walked about a mile while hitchhiking. I finally got a ride after walking nearly a mile. The guy who picked me up was clearly very wealthy and his very old mother was in the passenger seat. She was clearly unimpressed with me. Neither of them had ever heard of the PCT. They dropped me 5 miles short of Idyllwild since they were not going that direction. The elderly lady insisted that I take a couple books to read. Both of these books spew religious bull shit, so they are now sitting in the trash can under the bathroom sink in my hotel room. My second ride was from a thru hiker who finished the PCT in 2008.

Idyllwild InnNow, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d finally reached Idyllwild where I will stay the next two nights at the Idyllwild Inn. Tomorrow I will enjoy a much needed zero day. Upon arriving, I showered and watched in amazement as dirt just kept streaming off my body for 15 minutes. I then dried off and the towel still had large dirt spots on it. It was my first real shower in 126 miles. I trimmed my beard a bit, and brought my clothes to the front desk to be washed. When these clothes were returned to me clean and with no grinding sand or stench, I was giddy and overwhelmed with joy. This was the first time since Mexico that my clothes have been washed.

View from Adam's beard 1My buddy Whiplash arrived at the Inn a few minutes after I got back from the grocery store with the essentials: six pack of Mountain Dew, six pack of Firestone Union Jack, and a 1 lb brick of sharp cheddar cheese that I plan to pack out when I get back on the trail on Monday. Now, Whiplash and I are going to go get some food and beer. I can’t quite grasp that I’m in an temperature controlled room, watching the Celtics/Bucks game 7 on TV. I can’t wait to eat something from a restaurant for dinner. I can’t wait to sleep in a bed tonight. I have to remember all the chores I need to do on my zero day tomorrow. Flush filter, get fuel, clean/repair gear, ship bounce box, charge battery pack, buy headlamp batteries, replace the hat I lost, laundry, download latest water reports, get weather forecasts, etc. I will get back on trail Monday on the other side of the fire closure. I’ll only be 2485 miles from Canada at that point. There’s snow in the forecast for Tues/Wed. 1. This is the editor's way to see if anybody is actually reading this. Comment if you do.

Fred Wilbur (2018-04-29 12:14:27) Wishing you a good rest and healing feet. There are two other bloggers I came across that are also in Idyllwild. One is a German woman and you need Google translate to read her blog: http://annewandert.de/tag-14-idyllwild The other is a couple staying at the same inn you are at. Their blog is at: https://onedreamonepathfourfeet.blog/2018/04/29/day-10-paradise-valley-cafe/.

Adam Wilbur (2018-04-29 19:38:55) I read your caption. It was actually a photo from the Spitler trail of the burn area from a fire a few years ago.

Dotty (2018-04-30 06:33:57) Hope you can rest up and heal for the next leg of the trail. Also hoping your intestinal problems have cleared up. I totally look forward to reading your adventures every day. It makes me feel like I'm right there with you (albeit without the blisters, pain, etc). Love you.

Adam Wilbur (2018-04-30 08:48:52) Yes, my stomach is better now. Just blisters and a rolled right ankle are the latest body related challenges. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m glad youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re reading and enjoying this. Seeing comments like this make the 20-30 minutes I spend writing in my tent each night worth it. Love you mom!

LaVada Taylor (2018-04-30 16:22:13) I'm enjoying the read and sending you good vibes! Thank you for keeping us all posted.

Acton Bell (2018-11-07 07:00:13) Reading this in retrospect. Cool blog, entertaining and with some excellent info & insights. Kudos to the the cooties who took the "View from Adam's beard shot." ;)

PCT - Day 11: 4/29/19 - Idyllwild - zero day - 2018-04-30 07:10

Trail miles: 0 Miles walked around town: 2.2

Seen in downtown IdyllwildIdyllwild is a great little hiker town. Everyone here is welcoming of PCT hikers. 91

Hiker trash roams the streets everywhere you look. The town is friendly too. I walked into a store to buy a postcard and the lady just gave it to me for free after hearing we were PCT hikers. In Idyllwild, it’s even completely acceptable for one to walk around the street while rolling a spliff. Try that in Massachusetts.

I took a full zero day today. People like to think town days are for rest or partying. While there’s a little of that happening, mostly town days are for chores.

I went shopping and bought new Smart Water bottles, because I couldn’t remember which one I was using for dirty water, and I really don’t want to give myself girardia. I also bought a new hat since I accidentally left my old hat at the water cache at mile 145.5. I then rolled over to the pharmacy to restock my dwindling supply of blister treatment stuff.

Message for JohannaBack at the Idyllwild Inn, I cleaned my stove, scrapped dried lasagna cheese off my spork, flushed my water filter, downloaded updated water reports, charged everything, wrapped more duct tape around my trekking poles, repacked my bounce box, and ditched all my trash.

Thru-hiker hunger After having ice cream for lunch, Whiplash and I planned how the hell we would get past the aggressive bees at mile 202. Our plan is to night hike it, and we may get lucky since that day is forecasted for colder temperatures and up to four inches of snow.

Bee warning text I also managed to squeeze in a two hour nap today, which was the best sleep Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had in 11 days. Unfortunately, town days also offer me a lot of time to think and to be homesick. I miss my family and my dogs. I even miss the people I work with and only see via video calls most days. I wonder what itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be like to miss an entire summer of Colorado sunsets.

Happy dog Thus far the trail has tested me and given me a lot so far. Yet, there is still something I am looking for. I just donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know what it is. I hope I find it before my swollen right ankle gets worse.

Fred Wilbur (2018-04-30 18:20:38) Is that whiplash bitting into the burger? I truly enjoy reading these daily. Hope the ankle is well.

Adam Wilbur (2018-04-30 20:11:40) Yep, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Whiplash. Ankle is being problematic, but thus far Vitamin I is doing the trick.

Anonymous (2018-05-02 19:56:30) 96

Adam - happy zero day! We are here in Hatfield rooting for you! We send our love. Good luck w bees. I should have sent along my epipen. (Johanna, though it says I am anonymous) Btw, I like finding x, Dad.

2018 - 05

PCT - Day 12: 4/30/18 -San Jacinto - 2018-05-01 08:17

Trail miles: 12.6 from 178.0 - 190.6 Miles hiked: 16.4

typical elevation First, I have nothing but awesome things to say about the people who run the Idyllwild Inn. They not only drove four of us hikers to the trailhead this morning, but they also agreed to drop my bounce box off at the post office since it wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t open yet.

San JacintoTodayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hike involved a lot of elevation gain/loss since the trail meandered all over San Jacinto Peak. Parts of the trail were very narrow and lined with some kind of plant that I assume is something from the mountain laurel family. Either way, it did a good job of shredding my lower legs.

pinesMy hike was mostly in solitude today. I crossed paths with a few other hikers at the creek. There everyone stopped to get water and in the large crowd everyone seemed to be talking to someone (except me). It triggered my social anxiety pretty bad so I just filtered my water silently and left. That river was the last water for 20 miles. I took 5 liters. I just plodded along today sort of lost in my own thoughts. As much as I would have liked to just dance down the trail doing trekking pole tricks, listening to iTunes, my heavy pack dictated a more boring approach. I was weighed down with enough food to make it to Big Bear Lake and five liters of water. The dropping temperatures and rising inversion clouds made me stay focused of the primary 99

goal of getting to a sheltered tent spot. I decided to stop early, around 4pm, since the weather was worsening and the wind was howling through the trees. That and my old knees can only handle a limited amount of punishment from long descents, so I was hoping to leave 6000 feet of elevation drop for tomorrow, since Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d already done a bunch today. I also read that the tent sites three miles further were more exposed to the wind, which is another reason I stopped just shy of mile 191.

Staying at this higher altitude (7700 feet) is a little bit of a gamble since it is very cold already. However, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d rather be in a colder location that has less wind for the storm rolling in tonight.

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campsite This incoming storm has also put a damper on my plan to night hike past the bees at mile 202 tomorrow. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll just roll with the punches that Mother Nature is throwing. At this point, I just want to get past these anxiety creating bees via any means, so fuck it. I guess Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll just walk straight past that nest on the trail tomorrow in the daylight.

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trail messageTomorrow, if it’s not snowing, I’m going to try to hike all the way past the Mesa Wind farm tomorrow. It’d be my longest day yet. If I wake up and it’s snowing, I might just stay in my tent all day and eat white chocolate M&Ms.

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Trail Flowers

Fred Wilbur (2018-05-01 19:51:01) Waiting with epi-pen breath to hear about the killer bees at mile 200. Also, I see the trail to Big Bear is about 90 miles from where you camped last night. If is only 30 miles as the crow flies. The trail does whine around a lot. Good luck on the having enough food.

PCT - Day 13: 5/1/2018 - bees to buffet - 2018-05-02 07:11

Trail miles: 18.9 from 190.6 - 209.5 Miles hiked: 19.2 103

Weather ApproachingToday started out with freezing temperatures and me shaking ice off of my tent.

Mile 200The dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s task was to descend about 6500 feet to the desert floor, not get stung by the bees at mile 202, and then make my way to I-10, where there was rumored to be trail magic. 104

I spent a good portion of my morning examining the changing plant life on the descent. To start, I had woken up and shaken ice off of my tent underneath huge pine trees and among large boulders. By midmorning the desert flowers were everywhere.

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Just shy of mile 202, I tucked in my shirt, put on gloves, and donned my head net. I walked briskly past a HUGE bees nest that was close enough to the trail to poke with a trekking pole. A few bees circled my head, but none felt me threatening enough to sting me.

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Passing Killer Bee HiveLower on the trail, I again ran into Sabine. We been playing leapfrog on the trail since Mt Laguna. After getting water, we raced through soft sand and ferocious winds towards the interstate. The winds were downright brutal too. I guess thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why there is wind farm here. Sabine and I arrived at the interstate bridge and met a trail angel there who supplied cold soda, cold beer, and water.

Trail Magic

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sign - under I-10Weather was forecasted to turn worse, so we weighed our options and agreed to split a motel room in Cabazon. Per recommendation of the trail angel, we took an Uber to the Stagecoach Inn. This motel was the biggest piece of shit I have ever seen. Our room had dirty sheets, a moldy mattress, standing water around the refrigerator, and no working outlets. We laughed at how big of a pile of shit this place was and got our $75 back and then took another Uber to the Morongo Casino where we found they did not have any rooms available, unless we wanted to pay $340 for a suite. Through a friend of Sabineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s we were introduced to Shank and Pocket Knife, who are a couple from Seattle. They graciously offered Sabine and I floor space in their room for $30 each. We jumped at this idea. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m actually sleeping on the window sill!

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Roughing it on the PCTWe showered and went straight to the buffet where we found at least 15 more hikers. I met Opera, Whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Your Daddy, GQ, Bear Meat, Dry Bite, and others. We all had numerous plates of food including penne pasta with sausage & sun dried tomatoes, fried chicken, tortellini, and entire plate full of cookies and jello, etc.

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Yea, buffet table!Sabine and I survived an Uber driver that tried to go the WRONG WAY on the interstate. We also survived a motel that probably would have given us all hepatitis. And instead we ended up with a bunch of friends sharing laughs and listening to Opera sing beautifully in the dining area of the buffet.

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Hiker FriendsI made some new friends tonight which makes me happy. I do feel a little bit bad though. Whiplash texted me tonight, and heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sleeping under the I-10 bridge while I sleep in a warm hotel room. Editor's Note: I changed the font in this post to larger size. My elder eyes has issues with the other font, which was considered 'normal'. We never want to be accused of being 'normal', instead ?I went for 'large'. Feel free to comment your wishes.

Anonymous (2018-05-02 17:06:37) Looks good to me! Loving the blog. Keep 'em coming. -Glide

Anonymous (2018-05-02 20:06:49) I like the large size. Also, I like that Adam got through the bees!! Keep it up, big brother! I am sharing parts of your story with my students. I think of it as a geography lesson. Take care of that ankle! 111

Fred Wilbur (2018-05-03 11:26:31) No post received for day 14. Did see the spot update last night, so the map is updated. Looks like Adam hiked about 16 miles on may 2 Suspect he is an no cell area

Anonymous (2018-05-03 11:34:25) Tip for cell phone users: to see the map page hit the down arrow on the upper right, then select the PCT track Adam page.

PCT - Day 14: 5/2/2018 - Trail Conversations - 2018-05-03 18:28

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Trail miles: 16.7 from 209.5 - 226.2 Miles hiked: 18.3

LandscapeAfter a group breakfast at the casino, we took a Lyft back to the I-10 bridge where our previous day had ended. We started hiking at 9:00am. Soon, Shank & Pocket Knife pulled ahead and Sabine fell back and for a while we hiked alone. The first part of today’s hike was ugly. There was lots of litter, junk, bullet holes in signs, and generally evidence of the virus known as “people” everywhere.

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signs of a virus known as 'people

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'My spirits were lifted when Spooked caught up to me and started cracking jokes as we repeatedly crossed dirt roads in the Mesa wind farm while trying not to fall over from the gusts.

Mesa Wind FarmI also caught up with Whiplash just past the wind farm where the landscape turned to more traditional hilly California desert. I even passed a rock that had a smiley face of natural holes in it

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today.

smiley rock I had lunch about eight miles into our day with Shank, Pocket Knife, Whiplash, Spooked and his girlfriend (I forgot her trail name). We lined both sides of the trail during our lunch break. When others would pass through, we would hold our trekking poles up and give them a 21 gun salute. After lunch we raced up a 1000 feet in elevation just to drop that same elevation on the other side of the

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hill. All told, we probably climbed about 4000 feet of elevation, but only gained 1800 feet total.

Trail FlowersOur camp tonight is next to Mission Creek, which is the first time I have been able to soak my feet at the end of the day, and it was pure heaven. I set up my tent on the “suburbs” away from the tent city where there are at least 15-20 people camped. I did commute into the city to eat my dinner with Shank, Pocket Knife, Who’s Your Daddy, Anja, and Opera.

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Trail Family Conversations around meals are the greatest. We talk about everything. Topics range from who had to run of trail to shit after eating too much at the buffet, to what a bear with thumbs and trekking poles could do to people. I also wonder how many ants died today. They were all over the trail for at least ten miles. Dozen of hikers walked through there today. Human on ant violence must end!

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Left to right: Shank and Pocket KnifeOpera and I had a fun back and forth about chocolate. She told me that white chocolate is not chocolate. I told her that was blasphemy as I shoveled a handful of white

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chocolate M&Ms in my mouth.

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OperaFor me, fun trail family moments are what the trail is all about. That combined with the beauty of the trail equals heaven on Earth.

Cactus FlowerTomorrow we’ll climb 5500 feet in elevation. It’s supposed to be much warmer than it was today. I’m hoping to get an early start since this desert heat just kills me. I’m laying in my tent right now listening to frogs. Frog sounds make me happy. I’ve been on trail for two weeks now. I can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings. For now sleep beckons, it is 8pm.

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Campsite

Johanna Greenough (2018-05-05 10:45:13) I think, technically, white chocolate is not chocolate. But itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dang tasty.

PCT - Day 15: 5/3/2018 - Hiker Hunger - 2018-05-04 11:04

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Trail miles: 22 from 226.2 - 248.2 Miles hiked: 25.3 (that 57,558 steps according to Apple)

By the time the sun hit my back at 7:30, I had already covered about six miles. I was really wanting to put in a big mile day and wanted to gain as much elevation as possible before the sun started baking.

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AdamAfter stepping in the mud a few times crisscrossing Mission Creek early in the morning, I was ready for a break to dry out my socks, but I wanted to hit my goal of 10 by 10. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just hiker talk for ten miles by 10:00 am. I reached my goal and took a quick break at mile 10.5 around 10:15am and ran into Rainman & TreeBeard who I would later catch up with again at a creek which would be our last reliable water source for almost 17 miles.

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Resting FeetRainman was low on food and I had an extra dinner, so I gave him some Spaghetti. He thanked me by offering me one of his balls. (They are chocolate you sicko). TreeBeard and I both thought Rainmanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s balls were very tasty and we agreed to tell all other hikers up and down the PCT just how tasty his balls are.

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Rainman's balls

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I hung out at the creek just kicking it with TreeBeard, Thor, and Rainman sharing some laughs. One of the things we were laughing about was a comment thread in the Guthook app that most hikers use to aid navigation. This particular site was listed as “large rusted pipe”. We all passed this three days ago. Here’s a few of the beautiful sarcastic comments we read. There were dozens more.

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Shank and Pocket Knife showed up right as I was leaving. TreeBeard and I made sure they both knew that Rainmain has the tastiest balls on the PCT. I left and hiked alone for the most part, but I had a smile on my face. I was feeling really strong. I still had plenty of fun today too. I stopped to play an entire Green Day song on air guitar. Someone ahead of me also surely heard me singing Johnny Cash at some point. I also stopped to just catch some sun and rest my feet three times too.

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grassy trailAs I climbed elevation, the hot desert with itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s endless blooming flowers gave way to muddy grassland briefly, then much cooler temperatures as I walked through an old burn area.

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Eventually I found myself walking through some lingering snow. I even made a little snowman cairn to mark a trail / dirt road crossing. Hopefully it made someone behind me smile.

Trail Snowman 130

Today was the first day that “hiker hunger” really hit me. It was insane. I was insatiable. I was eating from the time I woke till the time I climbed into my tent. Throughout the day I ate the following: (calories are estimated since I’m in my sleeping bag and I’m not fetching my food bag to verify) 3 Kind bars - 650 calories Granola - 300 calories Clif Shots - 600 calories Banana Runts Candy - 400 calories 2 Protein Cookies 720 calories Packit Gourmet Gumbo - 500 calories Olive oil (drink it straight) - 300 calories Smoked Almonds - 400 calories Honey Roasted Almonds - 400 calories White Chocolate M&Ms - 300 calories 1 of Rainmain’s balls - 100 calories 1 Macro coconut / protein bar - 250 calories Gatorade - 200 calories And, I could still eat a pizza if someone brought one to the top of the mountain I’m camped on. I think the hiker hunger is probably rooted in the elevation gain today. I started my day at 3129’, I am now camped at 8713’. That doesn’t even count several ups & downs too and a couple of off trail excursions. I estimate I did just under 7000 feet of elevation gain today.

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I out-hiked my entire trail family from the night before, and it makes me sorta sad. There are some ahead of me, and some behind me. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m assuming Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see some people I know in Big Bear Lake tomorrow, assuming I can cover 17.9 miles of downhill, and hitch into town before dark. Oddly enough, downhill hurts me more that uphill, so itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be another test tomorrow.

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Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m encouraged by the fact my body is getting used to this repeated punishment. Let me be clear though. This in no way means I am pain free. It simply means that I am managing to push through a lot of it so far. My main concerns at this point are both my ankles. The lure of a shower and clean clothes will fuel me tomorrow. To Big Bear and beyond!!

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Campsite

PCT - Day 16: 5/4/2018 - Big Bear Lake - 2018-05-05 07:17

Trail miles: 17.9 from 248.2 - 266.1 Miles hiked: 21.5

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morning lightI woke up to the beautiful birdsong of the black-capped chickadee. It’s a song that reminds me of my Dad’s place in Pennsylvania. I smirked briefly before I realized the dream I was having also ended abruptly. I won’t go into details, but it was a dream that no guy wants to end early.

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Frost on Trekking PolesFrost covered my trekking poles, my tent, and my food bag as I packed up camp. I was on the trail at 6:30am, which is one of my later starts thus far. I was heading into Big Bear Lake for a resupply and a Nearo day. Two miles into my hike, I see a sign in the trail that reads “Trail Magic - Hot Breakfast Sandwiches”! I raced up a dirt road a couple hundred yards and was greeted by Rodeo & Pause. I was the first hiker! Rodeo immediately sat me down at the kitchen table and Pause and I split a warm cinnamon roll while Rodeo made me an fried egg & toast sandwich. I was also offered grapes and orange juice. I accepted gratefully. I even offered some money, but was told not to worry about it. People with such huge hearts, I can only say “thank you” over and over.

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bear cageAfter some good conversation it was time for me to get back at it. I powered through the next hour and quickly passed the sad sight that is a private zoo with caged bears, etc. I was getting into a rhythm until I heard TreeBeard ahead yell â&#x20AC;&#x153;Circus Act, are you ready for a break?â&#x20AC;?

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couch magicI looked up and saw TreeBeard sitting on a couch drinking a Mountain Dew and eating a fresh banana from another trail magic stash in the middle of nowhere. TreeBeard hikes exceptionally fast, so as soon as we rose off the couch, he was gone.

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TreeBeard would be the last thru hiker I saw all day. I hiked alone cranking Metallica for parts in one earbud, and sometimes just putting my headphones away and listening to the sounds of the forest and loving the softness of a trail covered with pine needles.

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Big Pine TreeThe quickly, the pines were intermingled with a cactus or two. Then Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d see a lizard perched on a PCT trail sign post. Then, it was back to the desert. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m amazed by how quickly this terrain can change; little micro-climates separated by a few dozen steps.

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I covered nearly 18 miles in eight hours, and that included several stops for trail magic.

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As I approached the trailâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s intersection with Highway 18, which I would use to hitchhike into Big Bear Lake, I saw my third trail magic of the day.

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I consumed an orange soda while flipping a trekking pole behind my back for the last 100 yards to the trailhead. There, I was engaged by a young grad student doing a survey on PCT hikers. There was a free hot dog in it for me, so I obliged.

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After my survey, and making a hot dog disappear, I walked to the highway. I stuck my thumb out and got a ride from the third vehicle that passed. The gentleman was a good ol’ boy Texan in a Jeep Wrangler who knew a lot about the area and probably more about trout fishing. He drove me all the way to the hostel’s doorstep. He was a class act, and he also refused money for gas. I quickly discovered the hostel was full for the night when I found the front door locked. I thought about rooming with Rainman, but his text message suggested that I’d be sleeping on the floor, and my body really needs a good night of sleep in a bed. To make matters worse, I could hear some familiar hiker voices behind the door as the hostel’s owner met me outside to give me my resupply package. I left there feeling alone, almost shut 146

out. I tried not to let my spirits down. I picked the closest place on his list of recommendations, and ended up in a room at the Honey Bear Lodge. They gave me a 10% discount because I was a PCT Hiker. I showered and then walked into town and did my laundry. I walked back and did all my hiker chores; clean water filter, ditch my trash, repackage items from my resupply box into my food bag, clean gear, air out my sleeping bag, fixing my broken headlamp, etc.

Eventually hunger won and I went to a pub called Fire Rock and ordered a 22oz Sculpin IPA and a medium pizza with sausage and mushroom. There were two guys next to me splitting a medium pizza. They took two slices to go. As for me, I ate the whole pizza with ease. I then downed the rest of my beer and walked 100 feet down the street to North Pole Ice Cream. I enjoyed my huge ice cream cone w/ sprinkles while talking with three Californians by a fire pit in the village. After inspiring one of them to hike the PCT, I headed back to my room where I filled

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the hot tub and just laid there letting my muscles relax after a long day.

I plan to have breakfast tomorrow, buy some fuel, and then Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m back on trail again in the afternoon. I almost canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait to get out of here.

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PCT - Day 17: 5/5/2018 - Mixed Bag - 2018-05-06 10:48

Trail miles: 10.6 from 266.1 - 276.7 Miles hiked: 12.4

trail woodpeckerToday was a mixed bag for me. I woke up after a decent night of sleep in the most comfortable bed on the PCT. It was 6:03 am. I hated that I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t sleep in anymore. I did some last minute chores. I sewed another button onto my shirt. I ordered a silk liner for my sleeping bag for more comfort when attempting to sleep. I need sleep so bad that the extra 5 ounces is no big deal. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m sending more gear home when I get to Wrightwood anyway. My 3oz 149

Patagonia Houdini jacket is going home, as is a small massage ball. My extra camera battery and my Kindle are going in my bounce box. I’m also likely replacing my jacket with a lighter and more compressible down jacket of equal warmth. I am also considering getting some flip-flops to replace my Crocs, even though I hate flip flops. I also need to replace the shitty hat I bought in Idyllwild after losing my previous one. One of my peeps from Massachusetts should send me a dope-ass Boston Red Sox trucker hat. Preferably the flat bill type because it shades better and I can squeeze my sunglasses under them too. I also called and talked with my wife. It was sort of heartbreaking to hear her voice. I discussed some resupply needs with her and asked her to order me a smaller hip belt for my ULA Circuit since I’m now losing weight quickly.

burn areaI was in sort of a somber mood this morning when leaving Big Bear Lake. I didn’t see any other hikers the entire time I was in town. I was feeling lonely as I slung my pack that was weighed down with 5+ days of food and 3 liters of water. I then lumbered over to Big 5 Sporting Goods to buy a fuel canister. After leaving, I hitchhiked back to the trailhead and got a ride within 15 minutes or so from a wonderful gentleman named Tom. Tom and I had a good conversation and he taught me about the mine and the dry lake that is east of Big Bear City. I got a view of this man destroyed area while walking a Jeep road around a burn area closure. I hiked the rest of the day without seeing anybody, other than the weed gang who are a group of four guys that are often stoned. 150

I put in an obligatory 10.5 miles which on paper seems respectable for a nearo day. I stopped way too frequently to take pictures of birds and Cedar trees and a forest floor covered with juniper berries and pine cones.

At 4pm, I setup camp at a nice spot. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s much earlier than I normally stop, but I was tired, lonely, frustrated with human beings and their impact on this planet, and to top it off I was burdened with a heavy pack. All I wanted to do was to sit and eat as much food as I could to lighten my pack, and then read my book for a bit.

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Anyway, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll try to do close to 20 miles each day until I get to Wrightwood. There, I am most likely taking a zero day where I may auction off a kidney to lighten my base weight even more.

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camp siteOne odd note. As I was walking up that Jeep road today, a group of Jeeps drove by. In a couple of Jeeps were the same folks I was chatting with in Big Bear Lake the previous night. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s such a small world we live in. If thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s true, why does it take so long to just walk to Canada?

PCT - Day 18: 5/6/2018 - Dealing with Trail Boredom - 2018-05-07 09:08

Trail miles: 21.8 from 276.7 - 298.5 Miles hiked: 22.5

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PCTRestless sleep plagued me yet again overnight. I woke numerous times with pains in my nerve damaged right thigh. Again today I hiked alone the entire day. It made me wonder about where all the people Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve met were at. Were they behind me or in front of me?

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empty trailI knew Ranger was about 50-60 miles in front of me. Talk about inspiring, that guy at age 62 puts the rest of us to shame with his fitness. I also knew Whiplash was a day behind me. I’m still hoping he catches up during my next zero day. I wondered how far ahead Shank and Pocket Knife were. I wondered where Paint Peeler and Marios were. I wondered where Opera was. I wondered where Alicia was. I wondered how far ahead Surgeon, Thumbs, and Mouse were. I wondered about Wine Troll and Trench Foot and wondered if her blisters healed.

Where is everyone?I began to think I was destined to hike today’s 22 miles of mostly boring burn area and desert alone. I played stupid games with myself to stay entertained. I taught myself new trekking pole tricks and practiced them till it was second nature to throw a pole up behind me, flip it 1.5 or 2 times and then snag it out of the air by the handle without looking. Another game was naming rock formations. Let’s hear what you’d name this formation in the comments.

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Name the Rock Formation Occasionally the desert would give way to a few pine trees that dropped pine cones that are big enough and heavy enough to knock someone out if it dropped and hit someone in the head.

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big pine coneOn one of my breaks at mile 18, I decided to push another 4 miles for a 22 mile day since it was only 3pm. I liked the idea of walking through this heat vs. just sitting in it. When I arrived at the Deep Creek Bridge, I found a place crawling with annoying locals since a trailhead was only 100 yards away. Apparently itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sunday too. When all you do is hike every day, days of the week donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mean much. I wanted to just shut my eyes and have them all disappear.

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I forced myself not to care, since this was home for tonight. Camping is technically prohibited here, but I had no choice since the next several miles are all in a canyon with little tenting opportunities. For one night only, I have a beachfront home. I made camp after filtering and treating water that these locals were no doubt pissing in.

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campsiteI shared dinner with a international community of PCT hikers. Anya from Germany, Grasshopper from Japan, and NOBO Lobo from Mexico. I ate all the things today. Hiker hunger is for real people. Today I consumed about 5000 calories and it’s not enough. First was a 1000 calorie breakfast, approximately 2000 calories of snacks, a 800 calorie lunch, and a 1200 calorie dinner. I’m still losing weight, and still hungry. I’m looking forward to two things tomorrow. First, at the 300 mile mark I plan to put my headphones in and turn up the volume and dance like no one is watching to Super Freak by Rick James. Second, I’m taking my hiker trashiness to a new level and I’m going skinny-dipping at Deep Creek Hot Springs. If only I had a donut-beer...

Fred Wilbur (2018-05-07 09:17:58) OK, As for the rock formation the first thing that came to my mind was: "Help! I caught between a rock and ... two rocks".

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And, can you video you 'dancing like nobody is watching'? That would be worth posting. Also, I will not post a photo yourself skinny dipping. Johanna shows your posts to her class and it needs to be kept rated 'G'. Finally, how did you get that shot of your campsite? Drone? Tied your camera to a thrown trekking pole? Make friends with a bird who took the picture while flying above you? It is a cool photo.

Adam Wilbur (2018-05-07 09:29:45) Too late for the video buddy, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve already passed 300. I did get a picture though. And I will keep my blog rated however I want, because itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s mine. Sorry kids. Lastly that picture was taken from a bridge that crossed the creek.

LaVada Taylor (2018-05-07 10:14:44) It's great to be able to follow your adventure. I look forward to reading it each day!

LaVada Taylor (2018-05-08 16:13:36) Rock formation: The headless snowman (or rockman). It looks like the head rock rolled off onto the ground.....or it could be "Off with his head!"

PCT - Day 19: 5/7/2018 - Graffiti to Dehydration - 2018-05-08 10:52

Trail miles: 21.6 from 298.5 - 320.1 Miles hiked: 22.3

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After sleeping on the beach of deep creek, I woke up at 5:15am to ducks saying in their own language â&#x20AC;&#x153;Get off my lawn!â&#x20AC;?. I could tell within minutes of hiking that it was going to be a scorcher. I was sweating before it was even 7:00am.

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The canyon overlooking Deep Creek glowed in the early morning light. Every turn around the rim offered new vantage points. I stopped at the mile 300 mark and danced to the song Super Freak. The day was looking good, but things were going to change in the afternoon.

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Miles clicked off slowly as I stopped often in the windless oven that is that canyon. Around 10:30am, after rationing water for part of the morning, I reached Deep Creek Hot Springs. Here, my first priority was water to drink. I filtered several liters and drank two liters in the next 20 minutes. After rehydrating my body a bit, I stripped off all my clothes and walked into a 115 degree hot spring and just sat and let my muscles relax. An old naked guy walked by followed by a topless woman and I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even care. I simply gave both of them a head nod and kept chilling. I would occasionally get up and move from the hot spring into the creek to cool down. But soon it was time to get out, eat, and go hike again.

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I headed away from the hot spring into the heat, envious of the ones remaining. I stole one last look back and caught a naked person drop into the creek from a rope swing.

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This is where my day took a quick turn for the worse. I was hiking north out of the canyon in the midday heat. The sun was destroying me. I hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seen a cloud all day and a breeze was scarce. To add to my dismay, everywhere I looked were rocks covered with graffiti. It angers me so much that people can be so selfish and narcissist. I hoped... no I prayed... that I would catch one of these fuckers in the act. But instead, all I got was more heat, more sun, and more melting brain cells.

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By the time I’d reached close to the next water source, I was in really bad shape. I knew I was dehydrated, even though I’d been drinking water nonstop since the hot spring. I was confused and light-headed as I stopped to piss 1/4 mile from the next creek crossing. To my alarm, my piss was copper brown. I’m not talking dark yellow or even orange, it was a brown that I’d never seen before. Let me tell you, when you know you’re dehydrated and then you see a color of urine coming out of you that is a color you’ve never seen before, it scares you. Now add in the fact you are alone in the middle of the desert and you can get an idea of where my head was at.

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I hoped up at the water source, I would find Grasshopper, Anja, or NOBO Lobo who were all in front of me. I found Anja sitting in some shade near the creek. I stumbled over, dropped my pack, and explained I was in bad shape as well as I could.

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Anja immediately helped by giving me some electrolyte packages to mix with my water. After drinking two liters of water with electrolytes and putting cold water on my head and neck, I started to feel better. My brain started working correctly again, and I could once again take thoughts and make them into sentences. I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t thank Anja enough for being there for me today. She mightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve saved my life. At minimum, she was a true friend to a guy she barely knew at the time and for that I owe her big time. Anja and I rested and in the shade from 1:30 until 3:30 and got to know each other a bit. We formulated a plan for the evening and the following day. We put in another seven miles before sunset and camped in a dry creek bed, since the tent site above the creek bed was crawling with ants.

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Tomorrow, our plan takes us another 22 miles for the third day in a row, where we will make camp in a room at the Best Western on Cajon Pass. A shower and a bed will be a nice treat before the following day. That insane day will be through a brutal 27 mile waterless section that also climbs over 5500 feet in elevation to the next resupply in Wrightwood.

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PCT - Day 20: 5/8/2018 - A Day to Remember - 2018-05-09 08:48

Trail miles: 21.8 from 320.1 - 341.9 Miles hiked: 22.6

Brutal Morning SunToday was a day that will live in my memory forever. Anja and I started our day very early and were on trail by 5:00 am in an attempt to beat the heat. I had covered the first eight miles to the Cleghorn Picnic Area by 8:00 am. Anja had beat me there by 30 minutes thanks to me dealing with an upset stomach.

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I met another hiker there named Smokey whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s aptly named since he likes to take smoke breaks often. He offered me a slice of pizza and gave me some Gatorade powder, since I think I was still recovering

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from my previous dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dehydration.

Bring on the SunSmokey and I hiked a bit and got to know each other while Anja had raced off to try to make the 22 miles to Cajon Pass before the sun got too hot. Eventually Smokey kept going while I took a needed break in the shade about 8 miles shy of Cajon Pass at 10:30 am. I had covered 14 miles in 5.5

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hours, but needed to cool down.

ButerflyThe sun was fiercely hot today. My impatience gave in and I started hiking again at 11:00 am when the slightest thin clouds appeared. Within a mile, I was burning up again and desperately searching for shade. I found some again just after 12:15 pm and hid from the dangerous sun until 2:30 pm.

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Rest in Shade At 2:30 pm, I woke from a nap where I had a dream and was sweating profusely. I had been eating sugars, salts, and protein all day. I was still feeling dehydrated. I drank the rest of a Gatorade I had and realized I was down to 1.5 liters of water, and I still had 6.3 miles to go. I decided I needed to leave the shade and just push through the heat before I drank all my water sitting in the shade. My weather app on my phone said was a â&#x20AC;&#x153;real feelâ&#x20AC;? of 99 degrees.

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I covered the next 6.3 miles in 2 hours and 15 minutes, mostly out of fear of heat stroke. I only stopped twice for two pictures. When I arrived at I-15, I was never happier to see a McDonalds in my life. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d made it to Cajon Pass, barely.

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I walked into McDonalds where 12-15 other thru hikers were sitting. Anja had been there for over two hours. She said I looked worse than the previous day as she handed me a cup, which I went and filled with ice cold water. I sat there for thirty minutes and drank a couple liters of water and a very large Dr. Pepper. I also ate a ten piece nuggets, a hamburger and a large fries. French fries with so much salt tasted like heaven.

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Suddenly my day got really interesting, when I looked outside and saw Legend walking up to McDonalds. Legend is a hiker who lives in Denver that I’ve been following via his blog and Facebook for a while. Last year, he hiked the triple crown in one calendar year. For those that may not know, that’s the Appalachian Trail, the Pacific Crest Trail, and the Continental Divide Trail. He did that in ONE YEAR! He’s on a whole new 7000 mile adventure this year. He had come 34 miles from the Deep Creek hot spring that day. I immediately jumped up and introduced myself. After about 20 minutes of conversation while he ate, Anja, Legend, and I walked to the Best Western. We all shared a room, showered, did laundry, and went to the hot tub. Beers were had, good conversation and stories were shared, and friendships were formed.

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This day that started with me thinking about how to convey the things on the trail that are hard to get across with photos and writing. The smells, the heat, the feel of the hot Earth through your shoes, the little gnats that like to float right in front of your eyes while you walk, the dryness in the desert air that cracks your skin and solidifies anything in your nose, etc. The middle of the day, for me, was a pure survival effort in the most real sense of the word survival. That was followed by the sharp contrast of being able to press a button in a fast food restaurant and have ICE CUBES! Lastly, the day ended super strong with two great friends and the most fun Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had any night on trail yet.

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Now to sleep, so I can wake up in six hours and hike 27 miles up over 5000 feet in elevation to Wrightwood on a day that is supposed to be hotter than today. It’s a section that is water-less except for two unreliable water caches that cannot be counted on. I’m carrying, 6+ liters of water to start, and I don’t know if that’s enough for me. Guess I’ll find out...

PCT - Day 21: 5/9/2018 - Hiking by 3 am - 2018-05-10 08:09

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Trail miles: 27.4 from 341.9 - 369.3 Miles hiked: 29.4 Today started off abruptly at 2:00 am when the alarm clock in the hotel room started blaring loudly. This was thanks to the roomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s previous occupants. After ripping the cord from the wall, all three of of us were wide awake. I decided to just start hiking. Anja (now trail named Southbound) and Legend joined me. We were on the road walk by 3:00 am. After chugging a Gatorade from the gas station we began our 27+ mile hike through the longest waterless section thus far. This day would take us up 6000 feet in elevation. I started with 6.5 liters of water in my pack. We rejoined at a water cache 6 miles in where we all chugged another liter of water as the sun was rising.

SunriseSouthbound and Legend pulled away while I hiked for a few miles with Smokey who has decided to generously turn back south once he reaches Wrightwood to go join another search for the missing 180

Irish hiker from last year.

TrailThe day was very hot, and we had to walk a steep dirt road with no shade for over 5 miles around a detour due to large amounts of Poodle Dog Bush. I pulled away from Smokey during one of his breaks and caught up with Debra whoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s from New Zealand. We had a brief lunch in the shade of a pine tree and got to know each other a bit. I liked her from the first time we spoke and we enjoyed each otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s company briefly too.

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Great ViewsThe mountain climber in me took over and I really wanted to get to the top of the climb. Near the top I met up again with Southbound. She and I hiked the rest of the day together. I felt stronger than ever. Views from the top of this ridge were astonishing. After hiking above the L.A. smog for most of the day in the shade less desert/burn area, it was really nice and energizing to be amongst big pine trees.

View of LA smogEventually, Southbound and I reached the road and there was a trail angel Noel waiting 182

for us and immediately offered us a ride to Wrightwood. Wrightwood was the most welcoming town ever so far. Southbound and I had a hiker trash moment just sitting in the shade in front of a Mountain Hardware store drinking Mountain Dew and sharing a beer. Then it was off to the Bear With Us Hostel for showers, etc.

Hiker Trash MomentWe met with Shank and Pocket Knife, Feddrica, and Sebastian for dinner. I sat happily with my new friends. I sat proudly for hiking the longest day Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve done in my life. Tomorrow is either a zero (if I can convince Southbound to stay) or a Nearo if I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t. She and I hike at a similar pace, we share a similar sense of humor, and I want to keep her in my trail family if I can.

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ResupplyingThe next section is only 85 miles to Hiker Heaven near Agua Dulce. The weather is supposed to be cooler thankfully. The last few days Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve learned a lot about myself and exceeded limitations I never thought I would.

PCT - Day 22: 5/10/2018 - Zero Day - 2018-05-11 05:50

Trail miles: 0 Miles hiked: 3.1 (around town) Sleeping in is impossible for hikers. I was awake at 6:02 am and already trying to do chores. There was more resupply changes, more buttons to sew, and more gear to send home and/or fix. Then it was repackaging food into ziplocks. By 8:30 am hunger took over and we raced over to a bakery where I ate a breakfast burrito and a fabulous cranberry orange muffin. While eating, I realized I was eating with eight female thru hikers from about four different countries. I think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great that confident women are taking up thru hiking in record numbers.

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hiker-womanAfter breakfast, it was back to the hostel for a nap until Ziplock (formerly known as Southbound) found a place that would pick up hikers in town and take us to a spa for a massage. They also drove us back. The massage was decent, but the best part was meeting the pet pig that lived there. He was sooo cute!

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pet pigWe came back to the hostel where we met up with part of our trail family that had just arrived in Wrightwood. All of us then walked over to an Airbnb that Shank, Pocket Knife, Federica, and Sebastian had rented. Pictured left to right below is Ziplock, Hoosier Daddy, Pacemaker, Pocket Knife, Shank, Opera, and me.

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trail familyWhile Shank and Pocket Knife prepared dinner, the rest of us had a very funny thru

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hiker conversation about blisters, food, heat rashes on backs/asses from hip belts (I win this

contest btw). Hiker rashWe even talked about inconvenient pooping spots, or better yet pooping spots with a view (or with a train bearing down on you if you are me). We talked about womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s unique challenges on the trail; like not shaving armpits, or choosing to pee in Ziplock bags rather than getting out of the tent in the middle of the night. I mean, if guys can have a pee bottle, why not a 188

Ziplock for a woman?

hiker hairOpera also gave us all a short and amazing concert! She has a angel-like voice and she sings on the trail while hiking too. When dinner was served, we all were treated with Shankâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s remarkable cooking skills. He made us all Caesar salad, mouth watering cheese burgers, grilled asparagus, and baked potatoes. Pacemaker kept feeding everyone beers, and the best zero day ever was in the books by the nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s end.

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hiker feastI feel like I’ve finally found my trail family. I love these people in a way only other thru hikers will ever understand. Where else will two Germans, one Italian, one Australian, and five Americans from all different backgrounds come together so quickly, with such real love and care for one another? The only answer is “the PCT”.

PCT - Day 23: 5/11/2018 - Trail Emotions - 2018-05-12 09:28

Trail miles: 14.6 from 369.3 - 383.9 Miles hiked: 16.0 After another restless night of sleep, we paid Wrightwood’s bakery a second visit in as many days for breakfast where we chatted briefly with Alexis who’s staying in town a couple extra 190

days. Then it was on to the task of hitchhiking back to the PCT.

breakfast at Wrightwood BakeryZiploc (she corrected my previous mis-spelling of Ziplock btw) was having no luck thumbing a ride for us. Opera, Hoosier Daddy, and a few others were laughing at our failure to snag a ride. I decided to take matters into my own hands and walked in front on Ziploc and yanked my shorts up to flash some leg. This circus like tactic ACTUALLY worked!

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hitch hiker legThe first car pulled over and a generous man named Gary loaded our packs and gave us a ride all the way back to the PCT at Inspiration Point. I also got some puppy love in the back seat with his two black labs. One trail town I will always remember is Wrightwood. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a tiny town, but every single person I met in Wrightwood has a golden heart that overflows with love and generosity. Every hiker should stop here. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a special place.

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puppy loveThe hiking task seemed easy on paper today. Hike just under 15 miles to a campground with the summit of Baden-Powell in the middle of the day.

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trail up the mountainEarly I was feeling good and decided I would time myself on how fast I could cover the 4 miles from Vincent Gap at 6592‘ to the summit of Baden-Powell at 9248’. Officially it took me 1 hour and 46 minutes, which is not great, but I did have a full food bag and worse yet I had a sudden, powerful, and completely unexpected emotional episode while hiking up this mountain by myself. It’s a good thing for inversion. The clouds were beneath us and it was sunny. My sunglasses, and the fact that I was sweating, masked the large amount of tears that forced their way out of me when a specific song played in my one earbud.

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InversionThis is a song I associate with hiking and for some odd reason it just triggered an uncontrollable flood of tears. I cried for reasons I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even understand. I also cried because of my entire PCT experience thus far has been so heartwarming, yet I see that a few months down the line it ends with a broken heart when my trail family scatters across the world.

Mountain Trail ThoughtsMy tears were large ugly tears. I hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t cried like this in years. It all hit me 195

while climbing Baden-Powell for fifteen minutes on a Friday in May. My emotions were real and powerful. I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even try to hide it as I passed slow day hikers with their tiny packs. As I was hiking on autopilot and sobbing like a child, a deer appeared on the trail and looked right at me. I stopped crying and just watched. He then moved slowly l off trail and turned back one last time allowing me to capture a picture. Then the deer was gone just as quickly as it had appeared. My emotional breakdown was suddenly over too, as if the deer has taken my pain away allowing me to just be in the moment again.

trail deerWith my head back on straight, I made a final push to the summit and even managed a smile for a summit photo.

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summit photoZiploc, Socks, and Chilly Bin joined me on the summit. We ate lunch and just hung out in the sunshine and gusty winds on the summit for over two hours. I got to know these three women a bit more. I really like each one of these characters for different reasons, but one thing they all share is a great sense of humor. They are funnier every single time I talk with them, and after my teary climb from earlier, these laughs were just what I needed. The trail had provided for me again.

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lunch on the summitWe closed our summit lounging session just after 3:30pm and began to hike the six additional miles to our planned camp spot where Hoosier Daddy, Opera, and Pacemaker would meet us later. That last six miles was really difficult for me. My whole body was just failing. Ankles were hurting, leg muscles were sore, and my energy level was low. I felt so slow. I finally arrived at camp just before 6:00pm cooked some Beef Pho, drank a Coke, and ate a cookie. Cookies and the Coke compliments of two trail angels that were wandering our campground. We chatted around a picnic table for a bit, but soon it was really cold and everyone dove into their sleeping bags and tents to warm up.

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Dusk - just before hiker midnightNow, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s well past hiker midnight and I am listening to a Boy Scout troop carry on at midday volume, some solo hiker snoring at the volume of a barge trying to dock in a port, and to top it off, someone is burning a fire that is blowing smoke right into my tent. Tomorrow we should cross the 400 mile mark. 15% of this life changing adventure already in the books, 85% left to be written.

Fred Wilbur (2018-05-12 21:02:34) Sounds like you had an emotional moment. I would be interested to know if you figured out what it was attributed to. The pictures sure look like the views, themselves, could trigger some strong emotions. That with all the trail magic and kind people can create tender moments. I am pleased you are enjoying the trail. 199

Adam Wilbur (2018-05-15 00:48:48) I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even begin to describe how massively this trail has already changed my life.

PCT - Day 24: 5/12/2018 - Mile 400 above the clouds - 2018-05-13 10:26

Trail miles: 26.4 from 383.9 - 410.3 Miles hiked: 22.1 (road walked around the Endangered Species detour)

hiking above the cloudsWe spent much of the morning walking on clouds, or sometimes just above or below them. It was a cold morning and all of us got moving quickly as a result.

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Morning lightZiploc and I joined up at the road walk around the trail closure for the endangered toads. When we reached mile 397 there was trail magic from previous PCT hikers that included donuts, sandwiches, fresh fruit, beer, soda, whiskey and live music.

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Trail Magic and MusicIt was only 10:30 am but we passed around a bottle of whiskey, ate second breakfast, and shared stories with each other. Opera sang briefly with Pig Pen who was playing a violin.

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Pass the WhiskeyAfter leaving the trail magic, I was suddenly in a bad mood for an unknown reason. Even the 400 mile mark didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t change my mood.

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Mile 400 TreeBeard chatted with me for a bit. He also stopped and pointed out some Poodle Dog Bush. This was educational and appreciated. This evil plant can cause severe blisters if one were to contact it.

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Poodle Dog BrushI was still in a dark place while I was the hiking alone with my thoughts. Then I stopped to pull a rock out of my shoe. I heard Chilly Bin coming down the switchback above me whistling a song. She and I hiked together till we reached a campground at mile 406. She was also in a unexplainable mood. Our conversation with each other helped both of us extract ourselves from our thoughts and improve our mood.

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We were enjoying a late lunch on a windy day at a picnic table at Sulfur Spring Campground when she saw smoke coming from the opposite end of the campground. We both immediately threw our shoes back on, grabbed our water bottles and ran over. Fortunately the fire was contained in a fire ring. However, the fire ring was unattended and was very hot. Nobody was around. We were the only two people in the vicinity. Whoever started this fire was long gone. Chilly Bin and I took multiple trips back and forth to an algae filled creek and doused the fire. Unfortunately we had to leave the litter since there was too much to carry. After preventing a potential forest fire, we decided we did not want to camp in a campground on a weekend with asshats from town potentially showing up on a Saturday night. We pressed on 206

making the day a bit longer. She was walking in front when she saw a rattlesnake, and said “Snake!”, which oddly enough with her New Zealand accent sounded like “Snick”, which made me smile and reminisce about my “Snick” blog post.

Snake (or" Snick")At mile 410 we caught up with Ziploc and were later joined by Socks. Socks informed us that our other friends might’ve had too much to drink at the trail magic and we behind a ways.

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hiker cloud thoughtsThis day ended with humorous exchanges with each other from within the warmth of our tents. Tomorrow we are shooting for another 20 mile day. I hope we all camp together again. I’m really grateful for these great friends I’m making out here. I’m trying to savor and cherish each moment.

LaVada Taylor (2018-05-14 09:47:16) Glad you are having such a great experience! I’m sure time alone and pushing your body to the limits would bring strong emotions to the surface. Happy that you are connecting with other wonderful people. Keep writing!

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PCT - Day 25: 5/13/2018 - Happy Mother's Day - 2018-05-14 09:42

Trail miles: 20.1 from 410.3 - 430.4 Miles hiked: 20.3

Good Morning, PCT!Dodging Poodle Dog Bush has now become second nature. We sidestepped a bunch of it over the first few miles. Chilly Bin, Ziploc, and I walked much of the day as a trio.

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Sidestepping Poodle Dog BushWe walked eight miles to a water spigot at a fire station. There Chilly Bin and I tried our best to convince Ziploc to chill out a bit. She’s very focused on her schedule of getting to Canada on time which I completely understand. And, I really believe in the “hike your own hike” mantra, but I also really think that Ziploc would benefit from relaxing her rigorous schedule and take time to enjoy the hike.

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Making MilesThere will be plenty of days in Northern California and Oregon to make up a few miles here and there. Mostly, we all just like hiking with her and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to see her disappear ahead of us.

Beauty of the TrailAfter the water, we pushed uphill another six miles to a lunch spot. I was very grateful for our lunch break since the Achilles in my right ankle started hurting a lot just before we stopped. At lunch, we took a moment to compare who had the nastiest feet. This is a contest that is easily won by Chilly Bin. Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been hiking in sandals for days. We even floated the idea of changing her trail name to Hobbit Hooves, but being a native of New Zealand, she argued that hobbits have feet, not hooves.

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Nastiest Feet ContestAfter lunch we knocked out the final few miles to a campground where we had agreed to meet Socks.

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More viewsAt camp, we were joined by Opera, HoosierDaddy, Pacemaker, and Socks. We all boiled water and devoured at least 1000 calories a piece. We are all convinced that Pacemaker has a tapeworm since he ate five dinners tonight and was still hungry. We sat at a picnic table and ate dinner as a close family which is exactly what we are.

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Trail FamilyAs the sun set, we passed around a bottle of whiskey that someone had brought. Now Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m now lying down to cowboy camp with Ziploc and Chilly Bin. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s their first night cowboy camping on the PCT.

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Cowboy CampingAlso, I found out that Linda (Operaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mom) is a fan of this blog. Thanks for reading Linda.

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Happy Mother's DayHappy Motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day to all the great mothers out there, including mine. Love you Mom!

Dotty (2018-05-14 14:09:09) Love you too, Adam (excuse me, Circus Act). Love sharing the PCT with you, even if it's just reading about it. Some of the pictures of your trail family bring me back to the 60's and my youth. Lol.

Fred Wilbur (2018-05-14 14:26:57) That picture of your tent with the light of the morning sun is wonderful. The feet pictures, however, is nasty.

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PCT - Day 26: 5/14/2018 - Hiker Heaven - 2018-05-15 08:50

Trail miles: 24.1 from 430.4 - 454.5 Miles hiked: 25.2

Morning on the PCTA steady breeze was just enough to make getting going in the morning tough. I hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t slept particularly well in my cowboy camping spot due to the cold. I just threw everything in my backpack and started walking just before 6:00 am. I was the first one on the trail and was rewarded with a good sunrise and the early morning light that makes for good photos.

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Morning sunlightWe all sort of hiked our own pace, but often matching pace with each other just to enjoy each otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s company. For a good portion of the morning, I hiked mostly with Southbound Ziploc and Chilly Bin sharing good conversation which helped pass the miles on the less interesting terrain. We were briefly joined by HoosierDaddy, Opera, and Pacemaker (aka Tapeworm) too.

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Trail FlowersMuch of the morning was spent with close attention to the trail since we were walking through a section that not only had a lot of Poodle Dog Bush, but it also was overgrown with poison oak.

Trail ViewWe were also blessed with Operaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful voice as her songs reverberated through the desert hills as she sang whatever her heart desired. We all love it when she sings.

At 10:00am, we had covered ten miles already. Our plan was to do only 14 miles and to kick back at the KOA campground with ice cream and take showers, etc.

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Hiker Tracks by ZiplocThis plan would change though. By noon we found ourselves toasting with pints of ice cream and wishing Socks was there to join us.

Ice CreamWe all ate our own pint of Ben & Jerryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. I opted for some Americone Dream and washed those 1200 calories of ice cream down with a Mountain Dew.

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Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s when we found out that KOA sorta sucks. We found out a shower was $10 per person, which we all thought was a complete rip off. Quickly we decided to not give KOA any more business. We would just hike another ten miles to Agua Dulce and walk a bonus mile to Hiker Heaven.

No way - KOA!Powered by ice cream, we flew up the hillside gaining over 1500 feet with ease. I was even running short sections and playing air guitar to songs by Boston and Guns & Roses. I had a ton of energy. Somehow Ziploc stayed just ahead of me though.

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Uphill Hiking Chilly Bin fell back a little because she was feeling ill after our ice cream lunch, but after releasing some of that ice cream by getting sick on the top of a hill, she felt better and caught up with us at the highway 14 tunnel.

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Tunnel under Hwy 14

More TunnelWe hiked through the Vasquez Rocks County Park together. This is an interesting place, but after our long day most of us just wanted a shower, food, and sleep. We walked into Agua Dulce and hitched up Darling Road to Hiker Heaven. Hiker Heaven is run by volunteers at a trail angelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s house. Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s laundry, haircuts, showers, charging stations, kitchen access, lounging spots, bathrooms, and tenting spots. This place, while crowded, is a lot of fun.

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Hiker GangAfter rushing through showers and wearing hilarious loaner clothes, we all rolled into town looking like true hiker trash. I personally was wearing a loaner menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shirt and womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s yellow capris with hearts on the waistband and sparkling gems on the hips. Pacemaker was wearing pajama bottoms. We met Socks at the Mexican Restaurant and we also joined by Sebastian and Federica.

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Loaner Clothes - Circus Act & Pacermaker

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More Loaner Clothes We dined Thanksgiving style, with lots of laughs and discussed resupply plans, shopping lists, and night hiking plans for the next hot and dry section that includes a long boring walk along the L.A. Aqueduct.

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DinnerWeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re now less than 250 miles to Kennedy Meadows and the unofficial beginning of the Sierra Nevada mountains. We are all looking forward to it, mostly so we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to carry 1015 pounds of water everywhere we go.

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Campsight

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Circus Act Antics

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Fill in the blank

PCT - Day 27: 5/15/2018 - in need of a zero - 2018-05-16 09:51

Trail miles: 11.4 from 454.5 - 465.9 Miles hiked: 13.6

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Agua DulceBreakfast at Sweetwater in the tiny town of Agua Dulce was really damn good. Nine of us hungry hikers sat together and ate. It was noticeable how quiet it got when food was delivered. Hiking forces one to focus intently on food when itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s placed in front of you. After breakfast, the others went to the grocery store to resupply. I headed to the liquor store in search of an ATM, but found it out of cash, so I just bought a beer instead. I waited out front of the grocery store sipping my Modelo at 9:00am. When my hiker family was done shopping, a gentleman offered us all a ride back up Darling Rd. to Hiker Heaven. 231

We just hung out much of the day chilling in various areas around this special place. The day was filled with many highlights.

Hiker Chilling

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Hiker NappingFirst, we were blessed with the opportunity to hear Chilly Bin play the guitar and she melted hearts with her beautiful singing. It was truly moving. Later she would also cook some Mac nâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; cheese that she was kind enough to share with me.

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Chilly Bin MusicWe spent the hot part of the afternoon lounging in the hiker house. Somewhere in the sea of legs and feet, Pacemaker escaped and found some nail polish in the hiker box. He decided to paint a few of his toenails; so of course our entire trail family joined in and got just the big toe on our left foot painted, just because. This is just one more way we are bonded.

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Hiker FeetThe day was about friends, laughs, the occasional chore, and relaxing. Chilly Bin continued her generosity and even sewed yet another button onto my shirt. We even ran into Shank & Pocket Knife as we were packing up to leave. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re hoping they catch up with us at Casa de Luna.

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Trail ViewMy wrist in my right arm really started hurting in the morning for an unknown reason. There’s a lump right near my bone. The pain worsened throughout the day. By the time we hit the trail again at 3 pm, I couldn’t really even hold a water bottle or use a trekking pole without significant pain. To add to my problems, my Achilles tendinitis in my left ankle started hurting badly. With an occasional step it would shoot intense pain into my leg and foot. Most of the group powered past me, and I was left to my pain alone. Anytime my body starts hurting a lot, I fear it may be the end of my hike. The idea that I’d have to leave this greatest adventure of my life and all these people I’ve grown to love just broke my heart. I sat right next to the trail and cried. Chilly Bin was slightly ahead of me and she knew I was struggling today. She waited around a couple bends in the trail for me which was really heart warming to see when I hobbled up with tears still in my eyes.

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Trail GrassI eventually rolled into the spring where we refilled water for the next 15 miles and just announced to the group that if they needed to hike on, then that was fine, but my body was screaming for a zero day. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve only taken two zeros in 27 days now. To my surprise the entire group unanimously agreed that they also wanted a zero day and that they wanted me to heal up and get better. Pacemaker even offered to carry my water, which I refused, but his offer still touched me. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve never felt closer and more connected to a group of friends. I filtered water fighting back tears of acceptance & love.

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Evening SunWe hiked until just after sunset. We arrived at a camp spot that was already partially occupied by a few other hikers, so I hiked on with Ziploc. We camped 1/3 of a mile past the rest of our family that squeezed in to the first spot.

SunsetToday I experienced a complete emotions all the way from love to despair. This day was one for the memories, the tough parts which were made easier by a hug or a smile from a friend at the right 238

moment. I just hope I can reciprocate these great acts of kindness and love. I am so lucky to have these people by my side on this hike.

Fred Wilbur (2018-05-16 19:53:13) Left ankle, right wrist pain can be caused by too many trekking pole tricks or maybe by hiking over 400 miles with a painted left big toe. Try painting the other toes and see if it helps. Seriously, I hope the pain is only temporary.

PCT - Day 28: 5/16/2018 - to Casa De Luna - 2018-05-17 08:22

Trail miles: 12.3 from 465.9 - 478.2 Miles hiked: 14.0

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Morning ViewGetting going this morning was a challenge. It was chilly and my sleeping bag was wet with condensation, so I just sat there starring at the sky thru the mesh top of my tent. I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to move. After probably 45 minutes, I finally started packing up. Several other hikers passed me as I was still sitting there in my trail side tent spot. First to pass by was Chilly Bin followed by Hoosier Daddy, then Tapeworm (aka Pacemaker), then Opera, and finally Socks. Each asked how I was doing and expressed concern about my wrist/ankle problems. Ziploc waited for me to finish packing up and we started up the trail. I was still shivering from the cold morning and the packing away my freezing cold trekking poles. Soon the sun was warming the terrain and Ziploc and I caught up to Socks in a section with lots of wild cucumber. We marched onward towards the fun times awaiting us at Casa De Luna in Green Valley. The three of us hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hiked together much and we passed the time with good conversation.

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Resting on the Trail At the trailhead, the famous trail angel Terrie Anderson herself picked us up and gave us a ride to her home (aka Casa De Luna). We were welcomed with hugs, and a quick point into the backyard which is a Manzanita forest.

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Hitching ride to Casa De Luna We wound our way through a maze decorated with hand-painted rocks with custom messages. The short and narrow trail weaved through the shaded forest and the occasional patch of sunshine. Quickly we pitched our tents, hung out our sleeping bags to dry, and went back to the house to hang out in the backyard.

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Bare Beer Bear ?We spent the next few hours drinking beer & wine, joking with each other, rotating from sun to shade, and just generally sharing good times.

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Napping in the SunI realized that my friends here are also reading my blog whenever they have WiFi since Opera and HoosierDaddy clearly communicated that my last post touched them. It’s a real challenge as a semi real-time blogger to express all the feelings that I have while on trail, knowing fully that some of my readers are the people I am closest with. It puts me in an incredibly vulnerable situation, where my trail family gets a glimpse into the inner workings of my heart & head, even if I never get to see that part of them. Either way, I’ll just continue being honest in my writing, since it’s important to me that this blog reflects my PCT experience as I felt it, and as I saw it, as I lived it, and how I want to remember it.

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Plus, I trust each of these amazing people, and if given the right opportunity, I would share any of my feelings with them face to face too.

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Trail Family After a few beers, we got sorta silly again during our afternoon lounging session. Somehow, my right toenail, and everyone elseâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s too, is also now painted too. This time Tapeworm chose silver as the color to brand our groupâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s right foot with.

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Tonight, the generous Anderson family fed over 50 hikers the famous taco salad. We are all camping in the forest behind their property tonight. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re also staying for a much needed, and well earned zero day tomorrow. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m going to cherish this experience and enjoy tonight and tomorrow. I think Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m finally allowing myself to live in the moment. Only on Friday morning, after our zero day, will I allow myself to consider the challenges of the upcoming hike to Tehachapi.

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"I'm going to ride this shovel to Tehachapi"

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Day 29: 5/17/2018 - Zero Day at Casa de Luna - 2018-05-18 12:26

Trail miles: 0 Miles hiked: 3.4

Zero day breakfast was for most people was pancakes at Casa de Luna. I however was feeling somewhat glum and just ate a half pound of granola in my tent.

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Casa de Luna GuildlinesSecond breakfast at the Heart & Soul Cafe is where my hiker hunger revealed itself. I ate a homemade cookie, a breakfast burrito, and a fantastic milkshake. After eating all that, I ordered a 12 inch pizza, and some waffle fries. The others in our hiker posse were getting some resupply items at the gas station. I bought myself some Advil PM in hopes that I can maybe get more than five hours of sleep. Back at Casa de Luna, there was a continuing debate. Some people wanted to hike out in the afternoon, others wanted to take a zero. I had already made my decision to zero. After what seemed like a fruitless debate, a flat rock was flipped (heads or tails). The result was everyone took a zero.

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Signup SheetCan't find Circus Act's signature? Click here. Chilly Bin was nice enough to sew a button onto my shirt that seems to shed buttons at a pace of about 1 per 80 miles. Shank and Pocket Knife showed up and the group was really glad to see them. Shank reminds me of myself from time to time and heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a person I can relate with easily.

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Group PhotoToday my main goal was doing nothing and letting my body heal. My team here seemed to be on board with that too. Sunrise helped me by showing me some stretching exercises. Ziploc consoled me when I expressed fears of my body failing me to a point of me potentially having to get off trail. Tapeworm even gave my calves a good massage before dinner.

Really there wasn’t much craziness to talk about today, mostly we just hung out, napped occasionally, and enjoyed each other’s company. My ankles feel slightly better, but not 100%. My wrist still has an unexplainable painful lump. Tomorrow the hike continues into the Mojave desert. We’re aiming to cover the 88 miles to Tehachapi in four days including some night hiking.

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Fred Wilbur (2018-05-18 12:45:52) Regarding the buttons that won't stay on for 80 miles. Rita thinks it may have to do with the fact that the buttons are made of metal and the constant hiking rubs the threads and cuts them. Other opinions (from studio pottery students) think it may have to do with the quality of the thread and suggest using a higher quality. I think you should use #18 copper wire or fishing line.

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Dotty (2018-05-18 14:52:07) The wrist lump might be a ganglion cyst, normally not painful unless it impinges on a nerve. Sometimes they just disappear, or you can try massage and one place said a night splint helps by keeping it immobile, thus causing it to "pop" and get reabsorbed into the body.

Adam Wilbur (2018-05-18 19:51:31) I had someone give me this webmd diagnosis at Casa De Luna. So I hit it really hard with a full water bottle in hopes of popping it. Instead I just caused myself more pain. I’m going to probably get it looked at when I get to Tehachapi.

Anonymous (2018-05-18 17:18:10) I am thoroughly enjoying your daily accounts of life on the PCT. I have followed a PCT blog every year since 2012 and yours is one of the best ones yet. I am pulling for you to overcome your fears of your body failing and ending your hike (somewhat selfishly since I don’t want the blog to end). When you make it to northern Oregon, I will bring you a Mt. Dew on the trail. Kevin

Adam Wilbur (2018-05-18 19:49:10) Thanks for the kind comment. I hope to persevere through this, and I’ll never turn down free Mt. Dew

PCT - Day 30: 5/18/2018 - A Challenging Day - 2018-05-19 03:46

Trail miles: 20.0 from 478.2 - 498.2 Miles hiked: 21.1

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Trail FlowersWe left Casa de Luna at 6:30 am after eating a stack of fabulous cinnamon pancakes. Terrie & Joe Anderson are great people with exceptionally pure hearts. We gave Terrie one last hug as she dropped us off at the trail, then it was back to hiking mode.

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Hiker on the TrailI was again bringing up the rear of the group and stopping to stretch often. After about a thousand feet in elevation I got a really odd burning sensation in my right ankle. That combined with the continued pain in my wrist put me in a shitty mood. I caught up with everyone nine miles in at a spring where everyone was collecting water. I had taken a Vicodin to help with my wrist pain, but honestly it made almost no difference.

Desert ForestAfter collecting water from the spring, I hiked with Hoosier Daddy, Ziploc, and Chilly Bin. I think they felt bad for me which is why they slowed down to hike with me.

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Ziploc, Hooser Daddy, and Chilly BinThe best part of my entire day was when Chilly Bin sang â&#x20AC;&#x153;Real Lifeâ&#x20AC;? by Connie Britton. For those two or three minutes her voice silenced all doubts in my head, and temporarily dulled the pain in my wrist and my ankle. It was really beautiful, the forest itself stopped briefly and listened to her voice.

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Trail ViewWe trudged on through terrain that switched quickly from desert to forest and back again. We took a couple breaks and during one of the breaks the inevitable discussion of how we were going to tackle the waterless section upcoming in the Mojave desert along the L.A. aqueduct.

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Horny ToadThe discussion led to some tension in the group based on some people wanting to push miles during the day, and others wanting to wait out the heat and night hike it. This conversation again brought me back into my foul mood.

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When we arrived at Sawmill Campground, we met up with Opera and Tapeworm who immediately informed us of the short hike and challenging nature of acquiring water. This was just bad news that put me over the edge with my mood. I was in pain and didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want any more challenges. I sorta snapped at them for relaying this information and then instantly regretted it. My hunger combined with a 260

challenging day for my right ankle and the ever present pain in my wrist all just got the best of me. To add to the now high stress level at camp, Ziploc realized that she’d lost a piece of gear off her pack. She hiked back to get it while Chilly Bin, HoosierDaddy, and I hiked 1/2 mile to a cistern to collect some water. The water was clear but had some interesting things that looked like small amphibious insects swimming in it.

Fetching WaterWhen we got back to camp, everyone sat around the picnic table cooking and eating while I just isolated myself in my tent. After an hour, I got up to eat and everyone was hanging out in their tents of at other campsites. It seems that even in the middle of nowhere on the PCT, I can’t escape myself and the bipolar disorder that I deal with every day. In the end, my bipolar disorder is a mental illness, but it’s not an excuse to just be an asshole. At mile 498 on the PCT, I am reminded how this mental illness cripples every relationship I have ever had.

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campsiteI’m again lying in my tent sleepless with tears in my eyes. This time it’s because I finally understand why people in my life keep me at an arm’s length. My mood swings are hard to deal with, and even harder to understand. I don’t even understand it fully.

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Trail FriendsTomorrow, I assume much or all of this trail family will begin to distance themselves from me; a pattern Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen in my life numerous times. They are all healthier than me and hike at a faster pace. If you add in my moodiness, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s really an easy decision from their point of view. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m now not even looking forward to mile 500. There will be no dancing from me tomorrow. Maybe just a single depressing picture of an arrangement of rocks as I stroll right by this milestone into my second month on trail.

Fred Wilbur (2018-05-19 12:21:59) What is the picture of the trail going into the hole about?

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Johanna Greenough (2018-05-19 17:32:41) Adam, you are stronger than you know. We all have our demons that we battle with. The trail family may surprise you. You could surprise yourself. I have faith in you.

PCT - Day 31: 5/19/2018 - Spiders, Rattlesnake, and the Desert - 201805-20 10:19

Trail miles: 35.7 from 498.2 - 533.9 Miles hiked: 36.5

sunrise May 19It was incredibly windy overnight, so I was already awake when my normal 4:15 am run to the pit toilet was triggered.

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Ten seconds after I sat on the toilet a giant spider fell off the ceiling and landed on my thigh. Without screaming, I hastily brushed it off me. I finished my business while keeping my headlamp trained on this evil thing. Adrenaline was flowing, so sleep was again a fickle mistress. At 5:00 am, I packed up and started walking just in time to see the best PCT sunrise thus far.

500 milesMile 500 came and went without a celebration. My mind was in other places. I stopped at a cistern to get water and ignored the dead animal carcass in the water as I lowered a bottle full of rocks 25 feet into the nearly dry cistern where I was lucky to scrape a 1/2 liter from the bottom.

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Water SourceBack on trail, I hiked mostly alone lost in thought occasionally having brief conversation with other trail family members as they passed me. Ziploc passed and we discussed the tension in our group briefly before she hiked away clearly upset. I wondered if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be the last time I saw her.

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Hiking in the TreesDuring one of my zoned out moments, I landed a step with my left foot and a rattlesnake lunged and missed a lower leg strike by a few inches. Simultaneously I screamed â&#x20AC;&#x153;Holy Shit!!!â&#x20AC;? and I jumped and ran like a character in Looney Toons with my feet moving before I even hit the ground. Adrenaline again filled my bloodstream.

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Trail ViewSoon, Chilly Bin and HoosierDaddy caught up and we talked about the changing dynamic in our hiker family. As we were discussing this, we rounded a bend and saw Ziploc sitting in the shade eating and visibly upset. I dropped my pack and gave her a sweaty hug which just brought more tears.

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HYOH - with trail familyThe four of us talked directly about the delicate balance of HYOH (Hike Your Own Hike) and wanting to belong to a great trail family. Eventually, we rose from our break spot with less tension but still unanswered questions.

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Dusty TrailWe flew down the dusty trail into the real Mojave desert. I stopped at Hikertown to pick up a resupply and a new hip belt while the others caught a ride to a nearby market for their resupply.

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Trail to HikertownHikertown has received mixed reviews from hikers. I fall into the “this place is creepy as fuck” group. There are secretive video surveillance cameras setup on the premises. The mail room shack where hikers get there packages has a wall full of assault rifles. And most importantly, the guy that runs the place just rubbed me the wrong way. My plan was to stay here until 3 pm on Sunday and night hike with Chilly Bin across the L.A. Aqueduct and through the wind farm. I immediately knew I wasn’t spending the night at Hikertown and changed my plans to hike out at 6 pm on Saturday. With 19 miles already in the books today and now I’ll night hike after a few hours of rest, a resupply, a bowl of Ramen, and a bucket wash and rinse of my disgusting smelling shirt and my socks that radiate dirt.

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HikertownOn a side note, the ankles are feeling better, but the wrist is worsening. I was cringing in severe pain just swapping my hip belt on my pack. I decided Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll go to the Urgent Care in Tehachapi, so thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just more motivation to cover the 48 remaining miles from Hikertown to Tehachapi as soon as possible. As I was leaving Hikertown at 6pm someone asked if I was leaving. I nodded and mentioned Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m shooting for 17.3 more miles.

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He replied “You’re a fucking legend.” I thought to myself “Nah, I know Legend1.” and replied “No, I’m just stupid.”

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Shadow of a Thru-hikerI left Hikertown at 6:15 pm. Ziploc, Opera, and Tapeworm were behind me by 30 minutes or so and caught me on the aqueduct about 6 miles in.

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AquaductAfter watching a so-so sunset, we continued into the night. Ziploc and I fell back as Opera and Tapeworm pulled away.

SunsetWe shared life stories, fears, and dreams to pass the time only taking two short breaks as 275

to not let our muscles stiffen up. Sometimes we just hiked in silence watching the crescent moon fade behind the horizon, leaving just silhouettes of Joshua trees, views of the Milky Way, and flashing red lights from the wind turbines. Just before 12:30 am we stopped just short of the targeted water source and collapsed into our sleeping bags with exhaustion. We had escaped the heat and completed a very very long day. It was my longest hiking day ever. 1. - See day 20 to fully understand this statement.

PCT - Day 32: 5/20/2018 - Tylerhorse Canyon - 2018-05-21 04:47

Trail miles: 15.8 from 533.9 - 549.7 Miles hiked: 17.2

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Wind Farm Morning came much to quickly after a restless night of sleep in the gusty winds. I guess thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s to be expected when one sets up camp in a wind farm.

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Wind TurbinMy legs were very heavy the first mile or so, but soon Ziploc and I found a rhythm. We walked right by the water source that was a mile from where we camped because we had enough to make it to Tylerhorse Canyon, where there was reported to be a trickle in a stream. A trickle of water that we would use as a life line.

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The climb up to the canyon gained 2000 feet of elevation. We’d decided in advance that after the previous day’s 36 mile marathon that we’d shoot for a shorter day with a long midday siesta if there was good shade somewhere.

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ZiplocWe both struggled but eventually strolled into Tylerhorse Canyon just before 11 am. After getting water, we made our way 100 yards downstream to a magnificent tree that provided all day shade. It was the only tree for miles, and we made it our lunch spot, which after eating we converted to our nap time location. A hummingbird floated in front of my face briefly while I was eating and a bird shit on me while I was napping. None of this bothered me.

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Shade Tree Even the brave rodents didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t bother me. I was happy in my siesta spot, breathing fresh desert air with the company of a good friend I met only three weeks ago.

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Desert RodentI slept off and on as did Ziploc. We were joined by three other hikers who also enjoyed midday naps in the desert.

Around 2:45 pm, we finally extracted ourselves from this perfect siesta spot and started another 1800 foot climb up to almost 6300 feet in elevation where we planned to camp around mile 549. The climb on any other day would have been easy. Today it was arduous though. With little sleep and legs that were working on 50+ miles in the last 30 hours each step of the climb was an exercise in determination. It was sort of surreal to look across the Mojave desert at the mountains in the far distance and realize that I was there yesterday.

The same feeling when looking down over the wind farm where wind turbines now look like tiny toys. This morning these same turbines towered over us and dominated our attention as the shadows from the spinning blades took nearly 60 seconds of walking to escape.

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Circus ActAs we started to top out on our climb, we saw two canopies set up in the middle of the sand and scrub brush. My thought was simply â&#x20AC;&#x153;Are. You. Serious.?!â&#x20AC;? TRAIL MAGIC!!!!

This was exactly what Ziploc and I needed at the exact time we needed it. I drank a Kool-aid, ate five cookies, and an apple. Did I mention there was cookies & cream chocolate cake? Let me rephrase that; I was lamenting my sore feet and the sand combined with red ants in my shoes, and then suddenly I was eating a fantastic piece of fucking CAKE!!! I gladly signed the register and left a donation as a way of saying thank you to whoever sets this magic up for us dirty sweaty hikers. The trail magic at mile 549 made a good day into a great day.

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Trail RegisterWe sailed on a sugar rush the final mile to our camp spot. We’d heard from Opera and Tapeworm who had already made it to Tehachapi. Chilly Bin and HoosierDaddy were starting their aqueduct night hike this afternoon so they were probably 25 miles behind us. Socks had skipped a zero day at Casa De Luna and also was already in Tehachapi where she’s zeroing for a couple days to spend time with her boyfriend. Our trail family is scattered right now, but I think we’ll realign after Tehachapi or maybe by Kennedy Meadows.

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CampsiteI can’t believe that tomorrow I will be in Tehachapi. It seemed so far away a month ago. I’m looking forward to getting my bounce box so I can trim my beard. I’m planning on going to the hospital to get the painful lump in my wrist looked at. I’m also looking forward to getting my new shoes since my current ones are losing tread. I wanted to get them in Tehachapi to break in the new pair before entering the Sierra. Most of all, I’m looking forward to showering, which I haven’t done since a cold outdoor handheld shower at Hiker Heaven about 100 miles back. I haven’t had a hot shower in over ten days since leaving Wrightwood. My dirt tan on my legs has now reached new alarming levels. 8.8 miles tomorrow and then my dreams of a hot shower will be answered. The trail really makes one appreciate the simple things like showers and running water that doesn’t need to be filtered, bleached, or boiled.

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PCT - Day 33: 5/21/2018 - Tehachapi - 2018-05-22 03:14

Trail miles: 8.8 from 549.7 - 558.5 Miles hiked: 10.6 The wind shook my tent nearly all night, and when daylight started to illuminate my orange dome of happiness, I just tucked my head under my sleeping bag and tried going back to sleep. Sleep however is impossible for me. I am cursed.

Goodbye Windfarm

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Ugly TerrainWe raced down nearly nine miles through the ugly terrain of the wind farm & desert, and were hitchhiking into Tehachapi before 10am. Our trail angel Tripod who picked us up was nice enough, but his driving skills mightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been the scariest thing Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been encountered on the PCT thus far.

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Hitching a RideHe dropped us off at the post office, where I picked up a pile of packages which included my resupply, my bounce box, new shoes, and a couple things Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d ordered from Amazon.

Collecting Resupply - Note old shoes

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New Shoes left, Old shoes rightOutside a guy named Kevin saw me sitting with multiple boxes and offered a ride to our hotel. Ziploc and I graciously accepted. Kevin told us about the fabulous German bakery and Thai-Hecapi which is apparently the best Thai restaurant on the PCT. We went there only to be disappointed when we found it was closed on Mondays. It was a little unexpected since thru-hikers never even know what day of the week of it is. We ended up at the bakery, where I had a ham sandwich, chips, a German pretzel, a root beer, and two homemade cookies.

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Resupply WorkAfter lunch, others went to get resupplies while I walked some bonus miles to the hospital to figure out what was wrong with my wrist. After waiting patiently for two hours and unsuccessfully flirting with the triage nurse Ashley, I walked out after she told me itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be an additional 2-3 hours to wait. I walked to Kmart and found they didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t carry fuel, so I just bought the essentials; Pizza Combos, Mt. Dew, and a 40oz of Bud Light.

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Not So Urgent Care CenterI walked back to the Marriott and watched the Celtics/Cavs game while doing chores and attempting surgery on myself by puncturing the lump in my wrist with a sterilized sewing needle. Soon our thru hiking family came back. I hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t finished my bathroom surgery but I had cleaned my water filter, washed my stove and was finished treating a foot blister that started about 15 miles back.

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Pre-washing Socks

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Blister WorkAfter I cleaned my blisters and was sizing up my new shoes, a clean showered Chilly Bin poked her head in our room and asked if we wanted to go to dinner. Ziploc declined, but I was starving so I joined Chilly Bin, Socks, and Jeremy. We walked a couple blocks to a pizza joint. I split a large pizza with Jeremy and drank a really good IPA. Chilly Bin and I enjoyed good laughs with Socks and her boyfriend Jeremy. Ziploc was still being antisocial when I joined Chilly Bin, HoosierDaddy, Tapeworm, Opera, Socks, and Jeremy at the pool/hot tub for some whiskey and wine.

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Roughing itWe drank until the cheap whiskey was gone then retired to our rooms, where Ziploc informed me that she’d be hiking out tomorrow with a few German dudes rather than taking a zero. I was partially heartbroken, but I also understood why she wanted to press onward. I could never keep up with her pace and could understand why she wanted to move on. I am going to try and relax for this zero day tomorrow. I have to ship some things at the post office but other than that, I’m ready to be back on trail. I can’t wait to be back at home in the mountains. Fuck the desert, I’m ready for hoards of mosquitoes, dangerous river fords, and post-holing in snow. For those that follow my blog closely, daily posts will continue but will be posted as cell signal allows since for the next 500 miles the cell service/WiFi is inconsistent at best. Stay tuned though, posts will continue. No shitty ankles or unexplained wrist injuries will keep me from seeing this adventure from continuing.

Fred Wilbur (2018-05-22 20:42:59)

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The foot picture looks painful. Also, what's with the thumbnail? That looks equally painful.

LaVada Taylor (2018-05-24 13:03:33) Onward Ho! Glad you're continuing your adventure because it gives me something to read while I eat lunch. :D

PCT - Day 34: 5/22/2018 - Zero Day in Tehachap - 2018-05-23 08:49

Trail miles: 0 Miles hiked: After a late night at the hot tub, my body still decided that 5:00 am was a good time to wake up. Zero days are for rest, yet I still only slept less than five hours. At 6:30 I walked down and ate a breakfast of an English muffin with strawberry jam, two hard-boiled eggs, lots of cantaloupe, bacon, sausage, scrambled eggs, a slice of cinnamon bread, and three glasses of orange juice. I went back to my room and a deep dark mood that is probably rooted in sleep deprivation combined with my bipolar disorder took over my mind for an hour or so. I briefly thought about taking multiple zero days here just to sleep. I even considered getting off trail permanently. Every noise was making my nerves cringe; traffic outside, cleaning crews in the hallway, the air conditioning, sirens, etc. I even considered just picking up my stuff and walking away, maybe even leaving the PCT and walking somewhere else... anywhere else. I have gone through these bouts of irrational thinking so many times in my life. I knew I just needed to wait it out. So, I put my headphones in, cranked music, and put a pillow over my face and cried softly to myself and wished sleep would come. It did not. After an hour of trying unsuccessfully to go back to sleep, I got up. I packed up some things to ship forward a couple hundred miles and also a small parcel to send home. Jeremy, Socks, Chilly Bin, Pocket Knife, and I all went to the post office where I mailed my packages and picked up a pair of Injinji socks I’d ordered. This was my first time ever wearing toe socks. Socks and Chilly Bin swear they are awesome, but I am still on the fence. Chilly Bin told me her sister is not a fan of Injinji socks and that she says it feels like “toe rape”. So far, I think it’s a very accurate description of how I 296

feel when wearing them. Pocket Knife picked up a few packages. When the guy at the post office brought out the last one that had a huge hole chewed in it, he said “Sorry, we have a bit of a squirrel problem.” He then proceeded to explain how to get reimbursed for the insurance. It was actually quite funny to see, but knowing Shank, I expected his reaction would have less laughs and more curse words, so of course I offered to carry that package to Shank’s room and hand deliver it so I could get a much needed laugh.

Pocket Knife picking up resupply packages Shank’s reaction was about what I expected. I suspect in a few hours or maybe days that he’ll look back and laugh at this too. Thanks Mr. Squirrel, I needed that today. My hiker chores were completed early today. I decided to forego any hospital visits since my patience is lower than normal when surrounded by sick people in waiting rooms of shitty healthcare facilities. I just fired up Netflix in the hotel and watched some Dave Chappelle by myself. 297

Around lunchtime, I jogged over to Thai-Hacapi and joined a Chilly Bin, Socks, and HoosierDaddy for lunch. I had an excellent red curry w/ scallops. It was a nice break from the burger/pizza train I’d been on. The group dynamics with our trail family seems to have gotten complicated due to different people having different priorities, so I’ve just decided to hike out tomorrow morning very early by myself in an attempt to avoid some of this drama. I scored a ride at 6:25 am from a trail angel named Richard. Richard is dropping me at the trailhead on Highway 58, which is mile 566 of the PCT, vs. mile 558.5 where I hitched into Tehachapi from. It works out because I’m perfectly happy with skipping 7.5 miles of shitty wind farm walking anyway. Bipolar disorder 1 with rapid cycling is the diagnosis my psychologist gave me a few years back. It’s a very real struggle that my medication usually helps with tremendously. However, my medication only works effectively if other factors are present, like a consistent and good night’s sleep and eating regularly. Such luxuries are not easy to come by while hiking the PCT. What I’ve learned from observation is that my mood swings are negatively affecting other people in my trail family, probably similarly to how they negatively affect my family back home. So at mile 566, I’ve learned I cannot escape myself on the PCT. Regardless of how many miles I hike each day, whether it’s 12 miles or 36 miles, I’m still the moody piece of shit that most people can’t understand. I’m sorry to everyone I care about for this. It’s really important to me that I don’t fuck up anyone else’s once in a lifetime experience on the PCT. Therefore, to help my trail family and ease my mind of guilt, I plan on hiking very long days all the way to Kennedy Meadows. It’s partially to clear my head by starving it of free time to think and partially because I don’t think it’s fair to the other hikers I care about to have to deal with my moody bull shit all the time. It is 136 miles and I’m only bringing 6 days of food sort of as a forcing function to make big miles. I should be arriving in Kennedy Meadows on Memorial Day or the day after. I can’t wait to get into the Sierra. Mountains are my home. I can hide in the talus fields and behind rock outcropping near a summit. I can hide from myself in the mountains.

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Trail Tonic

Fred Wilbur (2018-05-23 09:10:32) Best of luck on the next section. Those PCT 136 miles get you to Kennedy Meadows which is only 62 miles as the crow flies. Since even drinking Fireball won't make you fly like a crow, I wish you the best. Please spot when you camp, so I may track where you are. I look forward to your daily posts and will update the blog when I get them.

LaVada Taylor (2018-05-24 13:15:07) Thank you for honestly sharing your struggles. I know it is hard to do that. Please know that I will always count you as a friend. Your moods are no joke, but you have a generous heart and care deeply about others. I think that helps balance it out for those that love and care about you. None of us are perfect, 299

nor do any of us behave in the way we always should. The fact that you think about your bipolar disorder, and are aware that it affects others puts you ahead of many other people. It also shows your thoughtfulness. You are much harder on yourself than you need to be.

Adam Wilbur (2018-05-24 13:27:05) Thank you Vada! Your comments are touching. We must have dinner when Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m back in town. You and Kent are too good of people for us to not hang out more.

LaVada Taylor (2018-05-25 11:39:37) We would love to have dinner with you, when you're back! I look forward to it, after you shower, of course. Thinking of you, often, and sending good vibes.

PCT - Day 35: 5/23/2018 - Sleeping on the PCT - 2018-05-24 09:49

Trail miles: 20.8. from 566.5 - 587.3 Miles hiked: 21.9

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Trail flowerQuality sleep finally paid me a visit today, actually on two occasions, but weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll get to that later. I woke up a minute before my 5:30 am alarm. After a quick breakfast at the hotel and saying goodbye to my trail family, I caught a ride from a trail angel named Richard and I was hiking the PCT again by 7:00 am. It was so good to be back on this 18-inch wide swathe of dirt. I was home again. I hiked solo for the first big climb that rose from the desert floor and into the foothills of the Tehachapi mountains. The climb was steep, the sun was hot, my pack was weighted down with 6 days of food and 4 liters of water, but I was happier than Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d been in a few days.

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steep trail with flowersI stopped at the top of the climb in a shady spot and laid down to rest. I already missed my friends and it had only been a few hours. I thought about my recent mood swings and thought I owed my friends an apology and an explanation. I planned to at least explain my illness to them just so they had the knowledge. What they did with that information would be beyond my control. I just knew I cared about these people and it felt was the right thing to do.

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Trail ViewWhile I was sitting there, Tapeworm rolled in, followed quickly by Opera and HoosierDaddy. We enjoyed a quick break, but I wanted o have this conversation at a better time, when we werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t all trying to beat the heat of the day.

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HoosierDaddy on trailI hiked on another 3 miles or so and found myself suddenly really tired; not “my legs are tired” kind of tired, but rather just exceptionally sleepy. I was getting light-headed and stumbling. I felt like I was going to collapse, so I stopped took my pack off, threw my Z-lite pad on the ground, laid down and I was asleep instantly. I hadn’t even taken off my shoes. I slept deeply, and woke once for maybe ten seconds when I heard a few large birds flying above me, but I instantly fell back asleep. I finally awoke nearly two hours later when a hiker playing music on a Bluetooth speaker walked by.

Hiker playing music on Bluetooth Speaker Just Kidding - wanted to see if you are paying attentionHoosierDaddy showed up while I was rubbing the sleep from my eyes. We’d end up hiking the rest of the day together where we ran into Opera and Tapeworm at camp. There while eating dinner I had the tough discussion with them. It was received as well as something like that can be. I hope it doesn’t change our friendship for the worse.

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Dinner timeHoosierDaddy had gotten word from Chilly Bin that she was taking another zero day in Tehachapi. I think it’s unlikely that I’ll see her again until maybe Kennedy Meadows, which is a bummer. She and I hiked together a lot and I enjoyed her personality and good humor. Socks & Ziploc are also behind us somewhere. I missed hiking with Ziploc today too. She and I had essentially hiked or camped together off and on for much of the last 300 miles. We even kicked it together on our zero days in Wrightwood and Tehachapi. It was different and sort of sad that she’s now chosen to hike solo. I think it’s healthy that people are embracing the HYOH mentality. That being said, I still miss my friends. The moon is hovering above me right now, after I just watched a decent sunset from my tent spot.

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SunsetThe entire universe is encouraging long days with the later sunsets, the long waterless sections, the moon which will be full in a week or so which aids night hiking, and there are even cooler temperatures in the forecast. Part of me wants to hike those long days. Part of me wants to take long naps to wait for my friends. Part of me worries that me being far ahead of my friends is exactly what they want. So I guess in the end, I’ll just hike my own hike too. If the universe wants things to be different, I’m guessing that they will be different. Que sera sera. For now, I’m going to take advantage of the low hum of the nearby windmills to get some more quality sleep.

Anonymous (2018-05-24 10:46:25) could anyone tell me if they seen a hiker named Tinker? was near Kennedy Meadows recently- just a bit of concern but I realize cell service is spotty, thanks Donna

Adam Wilbur (2018-05-24 10:50:06) I haven’t, but I’ll keep an eye out

LaVada Taylor (2018-05-24 13:21:28)

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Enjoy your new friends when you can, and miss them when you don't see them. It may not be about you, but rather about them. You may never truly know the struggles that others have because they may not wish to share them. Keep on keeping on!

LaVada Taylor (2018-05-24 13:22:12) PS - nice bluetooth speaker....where can I get one of those?

Adam Wilbur (2018-05-24 13:29:23) They can be found for free on the PCT, but be advised, the sound quality is constricting

LaVada Taylor (2018-05-25 11:37:26) LOL!

PCT - Day 36: 5/24/2018 - An Opera to filter water with - 2018-05-25 10:13

Trail miles: 21.7 from 587.3 - 609.0 Miles hiked: 22.6 I left camp a bit after 6:00 am and hiked alone while eating my 800 calorie breakfast. I watched the sun rise over a few windmills, and I could already feel the heat.

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SunriseThe trail climbed relentlessly on this cloudless and windless morning. By 7:00 am I was sweating like a pig. To my surprise, Ziploc snuck up on me on the trail. I was very happy to see my German friend and gave her a big hug. We continued together until we were about 8 miles into our day where we stopped and took a 15 minute break.

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ZiplocWe talked a bunch and our 15 minute break became a 45 minute break since neither of us were really interested in continuing uphill in the heat. Yet, somehow we found ourselves hiking again. We pushed past 6000 feet in elevation and the terrain was much prettier than I anticipated. My hiking was slowed by me taking lots of photos and I found myself hiking solo again.

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Solo Hiking

Name these flowers?

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"You talking to me?"

What are these? Somewhere around mile 598 I rolled my right ankle spraining it mildly. I continued along in moderate pain to the 600 mile milestone where I found HoosierDaddy and Ziploc taking photos. It was a proud moment so I quickly took a photo, but I was more interested in getting to the Robin Bird Spring to eat my late lunch, get water, and take my shoes off. 311

Mile 600When I arrived at the spring, maybe 8-10 other hikers were there and there was a hiker clothes line on a log where tents, jackets, and sleeping bags were drying off in the sun from the previous nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s condensation.

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Hikers and Drying RackAt the spring, I met Misfit from Maui, and an older couple named Rocket and Stockings from my home state of Colorado. It was good to talk to these guys. They are legit mountaineers and we shared some fun stories about fun couloirs to climb in Colorado, etc.

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When leaving the spring, I stepped off the trail to let Tapeworm go by at his normal turbo speed. My step into the scrub landed less than a foot from a baby rattlesnake.

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Rattles or Gopher snake?Thankfully, he just slithered away. Quickly I caught up with a guy named Peanut Butter with whom Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve crossed paths with a few times. We hiked together and had a good meaningful conversation about our respective families, relationship challenges, and other miscellaneous real life topics. I really like Peanut Butter; the person, not the nasty stuff you ruin jelly sandwiches with. During our last couple miles, after I stopped to take a close up of a gopher snake, we ran into a trail angel named Cinnabon who gave us the most awesome information that she had just refilled water caches at mile 616 and mile 631. The section from 609 to 650 is often one of the driest, and this information allows us all to not have to carry a crazy amount of water for those 40 miles. We thanked her with hugs and a group photo.

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left to right: Peanut Butter, HooiserDaddy, Cinnabon, Circus Act, Ziploc When we arrived at Landers Meadow Spring, I was considering pushing three more miles, but everyone else was staying, so I decided to stay too. Hearing Opera sing to herself while filtering water was extra motivation to stay put. I just love hearing her voice.

Ziploc and I camped in a close vicinity like we seem to do a lot. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s comfortable to have a good friend within earshot so we can still talk when itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s approaching hiker midnight.

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Campsite SunsetAround 6:30 pm, we all gathered as a large group around Misfitâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tent and had a thru hiker dinner. It was a lot of fun and there were many smiles and laughs.

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Dinner time at CampTomorrow a cold front with lots of wind is supposed to show up. I guess the lower temperatures are actually a good thing, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assuming I can find a sheltered spot to camp away from the wind.

Fred Wilbur (2018-05-25 17:24:32) Interesting that you shared the trail with Peanut Butter. I follow his blog (Dan Soyka) at; https://soykapct18.wordpress.com/ You can tell him that I like Peanut Butter with mayonnaise. Hope you don't encounter a thru hiker named that.

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Sharon Michael (2018-05-26 09:02:36) The first flowers are lupines.

PCT - Day 37: 5/25/2018 - Soft Sand, Wind, and a Nightclub - 2018-05-26 06:55

Trail miles: 25.2 from 609.0 - 634.2 Miles hiked: 25.7

Sunrise 37I was up early and rolled out of camp at 5:25 am. I hiked alone on the beautiful trail for a few miles. I was briefly above the clouds until the trail descended to the desert floor. I was rocking out to a 319

mix of Green Day and Ice Cube and sang along as I flew down the first seven miles to a water cache at mile 616.

Desert LupinToday a cold front had moved through and the result was lower temperatures for our shade less hike across the desert. My only company on the trail was Joshua trees, lizards, and endless soft sand.

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ViewAt mile 12, I stopped and took a short break to let my feet breathe. I sat there pondering my life, my marriage, my career, all of it. I asked myself the question â&#x20AC;&#x153;Why do people need so much stuff to live happily?â&#x20AC;? I was on day 37 of essentially living out of my backpack and I was mostly content.

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Simple lifeWhen I started hiking again, I received a text message from my daughter where she told me she missed me. It brought a tear to my eye and made me more motivated. I really miss her.

Text from daughterSixteen miles into my day, I caught up with HoosierDaddy and Ziploc who were hunkered under a Joshua tree eating lunch. When I joined them, I learned that Shank and Pocket Knife had a personal issue come up back home and were getting off trail briefly.

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Desert view On my two breaks today, I ate a ton of food. Hiker hunger has hit me fully. I spent the last mile into Bird Spring Pass thinking in detail about Chili Cheese Fritos, Mountain Dew, and ice cream.

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It was VERY windy at Bird Spring Pass, but my ankle was screaming from hiking 22 miles in mostly soft sand all day. HoosierDaddy and I stopped while Ziploc, Opera, and Tapeworm continued on.

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ZiplocCowboy camping was the only option since the wind was insane, even in our slightly protected spot behind a couple Joshua trees. I ate dinner of cous cous with Shitake mushrooms.

Cous Cous

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After eating the wind was howling, so we made the tough decision to hike on until we found a good cowboy camping spot out of the wind.

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HoosierDaddyHoosierDaddy and I left the Bird Spring area at 6:20 pm and powered up the mountain. We were on a mission. The wind was gusting over 60 mph and throwing us around and knocking us off our feet.

We covered three miles and gained 1500 feet in one hour and ten minutes. We finally arrived at the spot where Tapeworm, Opera, and Ziploc were camping just after a glorious sunset over the desert below.

Desert Sun Setting

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Ziploc

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Desert ViewTapeworm was cowboy camping because the wind kept knocking his tent down. HoosierDaddy found a good spot to cowboy camp, and Ziploc offered for me to join her in her nightclub (itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a big tent with lights, so we call it the nightclub). I graciously accepted, hoping that we could keep each other from freezing to death tonight.

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Sunset # 37

PCT - Day 38: 5/26/2018 - PCT Surprises - 2018-05-27 09:15

Trail miles: 22.7 from 634.2 - 656.9 Miles hiked: 23.0

Hiker SunsetOne of the greatest things about the PCT is the unknown things that come each day. Usually, the night before, we know about how many miles weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll hike the next day. What we donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know is what we will see, hear, experience, and share with others during those miles. Today was a great example of 330

this.

SunriseThe day started very cold. The wind had howled all night and was still roaring at sunrise. Ziploc and I glanced at each other from our sleeping bags, with just our eyes and noses exposed, and agreed we were getting a later than normal start. It was a good thing she offered me a spot in her tent last night. There was nowhere on the windy ridge for me to pitch a tent, and if I cowboy camped, I would have potentially been fighting with hypothermia.

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Morning ViewWe all started hiking at 6:30 am or so. I was wearing all my layers, a hat, and gloves. Within a mile my body warmed up and the winds subsided a little and the layer shedding began. We had about 17 miles to go to Walker Pass, where there was a water cache. Our group covered this distance quickly, and I even felt that I was very sore and lethargic from the previous dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 25 miles.

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Hiker ViewI managed to keep up with Tapeworm for a couple miles, mostly because it was downhill (and he slowed down a little). I really enjoyed sharing stories and talking motorcycles with him as we covered some more of the same, sandy desert terrain.

Uphill flowersTapeworm, Opera, and I arrived at Walker Pass around 12:30 pm and found Ziploc already 333

sitting with a couple of other hikers (Gandalf, Grinch, and No-Man). HoosierDaddy had already hitched into town to get a resupply. There was also a trail angel named Chris who had brought Pepsi, Coke, pretzels, potato chips, bread, peanuts, jelly, peanut butter, gummy worms, a watermelon, and beer!

We all sat down and enjoyed way too many snacks and several beers. We moved back and forth from the sun to the shade and back to the sun.

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Hiker ConversationGandalf is from Sweden and the banter between he and Ziploc (our friendly German) was truly hilarious. We laughed endlessly listening to Gandalf do his impersonation of a â&#x20AC;&#x153;serious Germanâ&#x20AC;?.

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Hiker MagicWe discussed the idea of just camping at Walker Pass, but ultimately, around 4:30 pm, we decided to hike to knock off some of the elevation gain of the Owens Peak Wilderness.

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Owens PeakI flew up the mountain powered by Pepsi, watermelon, beer, chocolate, peanuts, and potato chips. I had probably consumed 2000 calories at the trail magic, and I had already eaten 3000 calories before I even got there. We arrived at our anticipated campsite, which was five miles up and found it occupied and very windy. We pressed on almost another mile and found a doable spot. Tonight Ziploc and Opera are sharing the nightclub with my tent on one side, and Tapeworm on the other.

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EveningThe sunset was breathtaking. We had views to the west and views to the desert floor to the east. Yet another one of the PCTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surprises for us today.

PCT surpriseLate tonight we got a text from HoosierDaddy. He apparently injured his knee in town and decided to rest for a few days and then hitchhike to Kennedy Meadows where weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d see him again. 338

We’ve heard rumors of a big bubble of hikers at Kennedy Meadows waiting for snow to melt in the Sierra. We’ve also heard rumors of significant snow from Forester Pass and further. I personally don’t believe the rumors. As an avid Colorado mountaineer, I don’t want to let some snow scare me from pushing into the Sierra, but I also want to stay with this great trail family I am fortunate enough to be a part of. Speaking of friends, nobody has heard from Socks in a couple days, but I assume she’s with Chilly Bin. I believe she is about 30 miles behind us based on the last text message I received from her. We are all hoping they catch up. I personally really miss Chilly Bin and her unique combination of humor and sincerity.

PCT - Day 39: 5/27/2018 - HYOH - 2018-05-29 05:55

Trail miles: 19.3 from 656.9 - 676.2 Miles hiked: 19.5

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sunriseA campsite with a sunset and sunrise view is a true gem. Last night, we were lucky enough to see an amazing sunset. And this morning, after having the best night of sleep Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve had on the PCT, I woke up to a fabulous sunrise which I could watch from the comfort of my sleeping bag.

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Morning viewAs usual, our entire group passed me within 30 minutes of starting my day. It’s getting old always being the slow one in the group. Sure, we all hike the same miles, but it takes me a longer amount of time. This means I get less recovery time, less breaks, and less time for fun. If I’m being brutally honest, I am tired of trying to hike at someone else’s pace. The “Hike your own hike” (HOYH) mantra is fine if you are just looking at it from a point of view of isolation. However, the reality is people make friends with those that hike slower or faster than they do. Today it was one innocent comment from one of my friends that triggered a series of negative thoughts in my head. I didn’t let on that anything was bothering me. I just did what I wanted for a change, and as a result I walked at my pace, was alone all day, and I’m currently camped alone.

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Opera and ZiplocI don’t understand why it’s always the case where the slow guy needs to hike faster or longer. I’m know everyone has their priorities and their agenda, but if friends enjoy hiking with each other, can’t it go both ways? Around 8:30 am I walked past mile 663, which means now I’ve hiked 25% of the PCT. It also means I have less than 2000 miles to go. It’s a little crazy to think that I’ve been out here for 39 days and I still have 75% of the trail remaining. It’s a little disappointing that there are so many miles left to hike, but that also means I can enjoy this adventure for that much longer.

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Quarter of trail marker I walked past Ziploc, Opera, and Tapeworm when they were having a snack at 9:00 am and greeted them but kept walking. I was hiking my hike today. I raced up a over 4000 feet of elevation to a cool shady spot where I stopped for lunch. I had come about 16 miles from last nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s camping spot and it was only 12:45 pm. I hung up my wet clothes, sleeping bag, and tent to dry out in the sun. Everything had gotten wet overnight from condensation.

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drying gearAfter eating some lunch, Tapeworm walked by and mentioned that they decided to go another 8.5 miles to a campground in hopes of Memorial Day weekend trail magic. I had already decided that I was not going to do that, partially because I hate crowds on holiday weekends in campgrounds and I didn’t feel like hiking 24 miles today. Shortly after Tapeworm left, Opera and Ziploc walked right by me without even saying hello. They were so focused on the trail they didn’t see me sitting 20 feet off trail in a campsite with my sleeping bag hanging from a tree. I even yelled “hi” but they just kept trucking. I hiked in solitude for the rest of the day. I didn’t even see another hiker for about 4 miles. I stopped to inspect little pink flowers I’d seen on the trail for weeks but had always taken for granted. I marveled at little ant highways that crossed the trail, with thousands of ants just cruising along with no knowledge of what the PCT is, or how there was trail magic up ahead 6.5 more miles.

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Ant highway I also stopped often to just look back at the desert and say goodbye. I have come to both love and hate this desert, and after tomorrow, I will leave it behind as I hike my last full day to Kennedy Meadows and the unofficial start of the Sierra. Finally I’ll be amongst real mountains again! The old fight was the heat, the sun, soft sand, lack of water, poison oak, poodle dog bush, and constantly trying to stay hydrated. The new fight will be post-holing in spring snow, the cold, altitude, fording raging creeks, thunderstorms, hail, and aggressive bears. It’s fitting that as I write this in my tent a thunderstorm is raging above me and this is the only rain I’ve seen since day one in Campo. The challenges may be changing, but they are all fights I’ve won before. I am confident that I can adjust. There is however one last fight, which is the one in my head. That fight I am currently losing, and it’s a fight that I am almost certain I cannot win alone. I hope to catch up with my friends again.

PCT - Day 40: 5/28/2018 - Kennedy Meadows - 2018-05-29 10:34

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Trail miles 26.0 : from 676.2 - 702.2 Miles hiked: 27.5

Kennedy Meadows Today is Memorial Day. On the PCT itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just another day. Out here, I often do not even know what day of the week it is unless someone tells me. Last year on Memorial Day weekend, I spent a memorable weekend with my good friend Kate climbing couloirs in Chicago Basin deep in the San Juan mountains of Colorado. Other years, I might be at home planting a garden in the morning and cooking BBQ ribs in the afternoon. And some years, I was in Las Vegas getting ready to play World Series of Poker. This year Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m hiking the PCT. This year is much different. I started today by shaking off a wet tent from a soaking rain the night before. When I started hiking, I was trying to decide if I wanted to hike the full 26 miles to Kennedy Meadows, or to have a more relaxing day and just do 18 or 20 miles and roll into Kennedy Meadows on Tuesday morning. I had just enough food to waffle on this decision for part of the morning. I left my camp early, just before 5:30 am in hopes of catching up with my friends, but honestly I expected they were probably already in front of me again. I stopped at Chimney Creek and filtered three liters of water. When I was walking away from the creek, I was surprised to see Ziploc and Opera walking from the Chimney Creek Campground towards the creek to go get their own water. Tapeworm caught up with me and we hiked together for a couple miles. We talked for an hour or so 346

which helped bring my head out of the dark isolated area it had gone to the previous day. When Opera and Ziploc caught up, we talked about the previous day where they had walked past me. Apparently it was just an honest mistake. They were just very focused on the trail. I felt bad for letting my brain manufacture falsehoods in my head based on this. Each of us reassured each other that we are family. We decided to hike to Kennedy Meadows together today. I was elated to be hiking with these great friends again. We climbed 2500 feet in elevation through an old burn area. When we reached the top we could see the snowy Sierra in the distance. This was very exciting! It was the first time seeing the finish line of the desert. We stopped and had pack explosions in order to dry our wet gear and eat an early lunch. I was so happy to be back in the company of my trail family. I sat in the sun sharing a bag of chicken teriyaki with Tapeworm and just smiled.

back explosion or drying partyWhen our break was over we started hiking down towards our next water source at the Kern River which was still 12 miles away. During this segment, I learned just how 347

interesting of a guy Tapeworm is. He was born and raised in Afghanistan before moving to Australia and he’s gained so much wisdom and perspective through his experiences and education. He’s really wise beyond his years. The whole hike down to the river was hot. Sweat poured off my head. None of us had showered in six days, since last Tuesday. All we could think of was swimming in this river. Although, we did have detailed discussions about food too. Questions like “What would you eat for brunch?” floated around, and the answers were thoughtful and in depth. When one person thought of something that another person had not, it was a let down. I remember thinking “how could I not think of a smoothie?” after hearing Tapeworm’s detailed breakdown of the fictional brunch he would eat. After what felt like an eternity, but what was really about four hours, we arrived at the Kern river. This was the biggest body of water we had seen in 700 miles. Within minutes, we were all in the water submerging ourselves and splashing each other like kids in a pool. It was a fitting way to end a 700 mile desert section of the PCT.

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In the Kern River Walking the last 4.5 miles to Kennedy Meadows felt even hotter, but maybe that was due to having been in the cool water of the river for an hour. The torture was briefly interrupted when Opera sang, per request, an “over-the-top Super Bowl rendition of the national anthem”. It had me in fits of laughter and she carried each note excessively long just for the added Super Bowl dramatic effect. We passed the 700 mile marker and continued slowly to mile 702.2 where we reached only the second paved road we’d seen in 136 miles since leaving Tehachapi. We walked the one bonus mile down this road to Kennedy Meadows four wide taking up most of the road. It was an emotional and moving moment for all of us. Hugs were shared, love for one another communicated openly with words, but also in one another’s eyes. I realized again that this trail family means the world to me. I believe, without each other that none of us would have made it this far.

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Circus Act at mile 700When we walked up to the Kennedy Meadows General Store, a crowd of thru hikers and locals on the porch cheered loudly and applauded us. I choked back tears again but the proud moment was brief, since I realized I was now in a place where I could buy things that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d been dreaming of for 136 miles. I walked in to the store bought two Mountain Dews, one Gatorade, a six pack of beer, a banana, and an ice cream bar.

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Civilization Food!After each of us ate a bit, we setup our tents behind the store. Joy and happiness was on everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s face. While setting up our tents, I told Ziploc and Opera that I loved them. They told me the same. We hugged each other and I caught a glimpse of tears in both of their eyes which made me feel better since my eyes were not dry either.

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The 'Walk"We ran into Gandalf and we all sat on the porch and ate dinner. We talked, laughed, and cheered on a few late arriving hikers. We have only known each other for just over a month, but the bond between trail family is real and it is strong. We’ve shared misery together. We’ve experienced things together that cannot even be described accurately with words or pictures. We’ve also shared fun times and great laughs, sometimes those laughs are from just reading (and re-reading) comments about a large rusty pipe. We’ve also openly talked about how we feel for one another and poured our hearts out to each other. We’ve grown individually. We’ve also helped each other grow as individuals. Lastly, we have grown together, just as trees with roots in close proximity do.

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Next ChapterWe’ve hiked 702 miles from Mexico to the Sierra Nevada. I encourage you to just think about that distance for a minute. A continuation of this adventure awaits us in the high Sierra. It’ll be a new chapter to the most memorable time of my life.

Fred Wilbur (2018-05-29 18:19:22) I’m pleased you four made it together to Kennedy Meadows. I can just visualize you four wide walking down the road, proud as a peacock in a turkey farm. Do you have any news on HoosierDaddy, Socks, or Chilly Bin? I look forward to reading your update daily. I like you being so open and honest. Takes a strong person to do that.

PCT - Day 41: 5/29/2018 - Resupply in Kennedy Meadows - 2018-05-30 07:53

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Trail miles: 0 Miles walked: 3.2

morning campsiteKennedy Meadows is basically in the middle of nowhere. Taking a zero day here is not about partying or eating at great restaurants. It’s about resting and getting one’s body, gear, and mind prepared for the Sierra. I woke up around 4:30 am and couldn’t get back to sleep. I walked from my tent to the front porch of the general store and sat down and enjoyed the really slow WiFi by myself. I wrote a blog post, downloaded updated snow/ford reports regarding the Sierra.

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General StoreAfter a while I was getting cold and returned to my tent around 6:00 am and instantly fell asleep and woke up from a deep slumber at 8:00 am. I stumbled half asleep up to the front porch and found my group surrounding a round table. I sat down, chugged a Mountain Dew that I had stashed in my tent the night before. Around 8:30 am we all ordered pancakes for $5 and I opted to add a couple eggs and sausage to my breakfast. I even drank some coffee. For anyone that knows me, drinking coffee is highly unusual. In fact, I would guess itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been over ten years since my last cup of coffee.

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BreakfastI weighed myself while waiting for my breakfast and discovered my weight has dropped from 185 lbs at the start of the trail to 172 lbs. I’ll write a diet related book after my hike. The secret diet will be revealed on page 1 and it’ll simply read: “Eat a shitload of jelly beans and hike 20 miles every day.” For my loyal blog followers, this secret is yours for free. After breakfast it was all about hiker chores; shower, laundry, shopping for missing items, and picking up our resupply packages. We opened our resupply packages around a table, taking turns like a family does on Christmas Day. HoosierDaddy showed up in a car he borrowed from Yogi who runs a outfitter store a few miles away. He drove two carloads of us over to the store where I bought some food and a buff to hopefully keep my neck from getting sunburn. I also finally got myself some Chili Cheese Frito's that I’ve been craving for 140 miles. Ziploc replaced her broken pack with a new one and picked up new shoes she’d sent herself. Our group then walked over to Grumpy Bears Retreat for a burger and some drinks. We sat in the shade of a lone tree out front and marveled at truckloads of hikers coming and going. We even got a demonstration of Gandalf’s puffy/rain skirt combo than makes him look like a bearded Swedish Hulk.

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Gandalf's PuffyWhile sitting under that tree and drinking a margarita, a truck pulled up and Chilly Bin hopped out. We were all really happy to see her. Sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d hiked a few long days in a row to catch up with us, and we are glad she did.

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Truck load of hiker tashWhile sitting under that tree, we got some news from Peanut Butter that he needed to go into town to visit a doctor for what is hopefully a minor medical issue. Peanut Butter was understandably very emotional about having to get off trail with an unknown status of when and if heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d return. He then did something I have a great deal of respect for. He opened his heart and told us just how much we meant to him. It was a very touching moment for all of us. I sure hope heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be back. Personally, I really like him and hope to continue growing our friendship regardless of whether he returns to the trail or not. Off and on during the day, there were mixed reports about snow conditions. At the outfitterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shop, to no surprise from me, the reports were serious and almost bordering on fear mongering in my opinion. I guess they are in the business of selling gear, so that makes sense. Again, this is just my opinion. I still 358

think Yogi runs a fair and honest shop. The thing is, I believe it’s all relative. For someone that has never hiked through snow in the mountains, it is probably legitimately scary. For someone more experienced, like myself, it’s probably just second nature. I’ve done lots of winter and spring mountaineering in Colorado and my only real concern is that I will be missing some of the key pieces of gear I would normally carry. That being said, I’m confident I can embrace the suck and overcome whatever the Sierra throws at me and get by without it.

Gandalf, Chilly Bin, and OperaAt the end of the day, a few of us returned to the Kennedy Meadows general store and a few of us stayed at Grumpy Bears. I was in the group that returned to the general store. I hung out with Chilly Bin and Ziploc eating cheese and crackers, a banana, and a pint of ice cream for dinner. We all cheered and applauded we saw NoMan arrive too. We caught up with him and watched a decent sunset as he proceeded to eat nearly all of a half gallon of vanilla ice cream. 359

Hitching That evening as a group of drunk people sang Billy Joel’s Piano Man around a campfire, I gave Ziploc a pack shakedown. We meticulously went through each item she carried and in the end I believe we eliminated about 2-3 lbs of stuff from her pack. Tomorrow I have to ship some items home. Then I get to figure out how to add an additional day’s worth of food to my already full bear can. This is so I can do a side trip to summit Mt. Whitney for the second time on my way to my next resupply about 86 miles further north. The plan is to either leave tomorrow afternoon or early Thursday morning. I can’t wait. I already miss moving northward.

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Sunset at Kennedy Meadows

PCT - Day 42: 5/30/2018 - Preparing for the Sierra - 2018-05-31 06:58

Trail miles: 0 Miles walked: 2.8

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Hiking the PCT in a LotusWe had a second zero day in Kennedy Meadows to rest and this allowed me to go through the painful exercise of packing my pack with a bear canister in it. It took several attempts before I successfully fit it in my pack with all my other crap.

After breakfast, Chilly Bin, Ziploc, and I were waiting for a hourly shuttle to take us to Grumpy Bears so we could go try to convince the others in our group to hike out today amongst other things. I’m not a patient person, so when I saw a yellow Lotus pull up in front of the general store, I told the others I was going to score a ride with this guy. They laughed and sarcastically wished me luck, and someone from the porch said “Dream on Circus Act.” Two minutes later I was having the last laugh as Bob raced me over to Grumpy Bears in the passenger seat of his Lotus. For the record, Bob knows how to drive this car too. When we pulled up and other hikers saw me hop out, my hitchhiking legend status increased a bit more.

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Hitching a ride in a LotusEventually the others arrived in the back of a dirty pickup truck. We ate, relaxed, shot some pool, and sent packages. Later we would discover that I inadvertently sent home a half empty fuel canister in my Ursack that I had intended for a hiker box. Chilly Bin also inadvertently sent her toiletries to a friend in Seattle. We had a good laugh about this later when she realized her mistake. Guess itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s better to realize this mistake now before you are in the Sierra looking for toilet paper in your pack and finding none.

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shooting pool with TapewormSocks and Misfit arrived in Kennedy Meadows today too! It was great to see them both and it appears like theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been enjoying hiking together. By mid afternoon, Ziploc, Chilly Bin, and I were longing for the more comfortable surroundings of the general store so we headed back. When we came back, we sat with Rocket, Stockings, Ramen King, Slippy, Misfit, Socks, and a few others. Rocket treated us to a beer, and Ramen King shared a box of Girl Scout cookies which makes him a up and coming legend in my book. The kitchen here closes at 4 pm, and the general store shortly thereafter, so we mostly ate junk food for dinner and then retreated to our camping spot around 7 pm to sort out our resupply, eat some Ramen noodles and just hang out together.

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Circus ActgZiploc was sporting her brand new backpack, and trying to discover a new method of packing it since every backpack seems to have itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own method. I believe my friendship with Ziploc and Chilly Bin grew a bit closer tonight. We all piled into Ziplocâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nightclub and just talked for an hour or so. Sometimes we were sharing humorous stories and other times just openly talking about deeper topics. We smiled & laughed a lot. We also discovered that each of us is incredibly ticklish on our feet. The PCT is one of the only things I know of that can bring together three people from three different backgrounds from three different corners of the planet. The three of us ended our short slumber party early though since we all really needed to get 365

some sleep. We hike out tomorrow morning heading into the Sierra. The snow is still very prevalent and temperatures are on the rise which could complicate creek crossings in the upcoming days. Note: Cell service will be spotty or nonexistent in the Sierra, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll post daily posts as soon as I can.

2018 - 06

PCT - Day 43: 5/31/2018 - Beginning of Sequoia National Forest - 201806-02 13:00

Trail miles: 20.0 from 702.2 to 722.2 Miles walked: 21.6

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SunriseWe left Kennedy Meadows at 6 am. I was never happier to get back on trail. Kennedy Meadows is a milestone on the PCT since it’s the end of the desert and beginning of the Sierra. However, Kennedy Meadows as a place hikers would want to spend time ranks very low on the list. I don’t like to rant in my blog, but I feel people reading this and thinking about hiking the PCT should be aware of a few things about Kennedy Meadows.

There are very little good food options. The pancakes at the general store are good, but the rest of it is adequate at best and the menu is basically limited to burgers, hot dogs, and Italian sausages. And the kitchen closes at 4 pm. The food at Grumpy Bears is not much better. They were out of pizza (for two days). The were out of potato salad. They even were out of milk so I couldn’t get a milkshake. The burgers were adequate at best, and the French fries tasted like they were cooked in a fryer that had really old oil.

The bathrooms and outhouses at the general store were fucking disgusting. There was no toilet paper or hand sanitizer to speak of. The one actual bathroom that had a flushing toilet was acceptable most of the time, except at night when it was locked with a padlock, or the morning I left when I opened the door to find human shit on the floor. This left a hiker with an urgent toilet need the only options of using the outhouses, but that was not an option either because from the time I arrived there until the time I left, the four outhouses were 100% full. It was simply unusable. This left hikers the only option of digging cat holes. This would also be fine, except there were 50-100 hikers staying here on a property that is maximum a few acres. You do the math.

If I was not waiting for a friend to show up, I would have left this hell-hole asap.

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The SierraAnyway, getting back on the trail was a welcomed thing. The first few miles were a physical struggle for many of us today, including me. My right knee was pinching something. My right ankle hurt. But mostly, everyone’s backs and shoulders were hurting due to having to carry a bear can in their pack per regulations for the next 300-ish miles.

We stopped twice to repack packs, once for Chilly Bin and once for me. After repacking, it still sucked, just slightly less.

This brings me to a short poem I wrote about my hatred of the bear can:

~~ Hear me, you piece of shit regulator man, I’ll want to shove your head into this bear can. I still hike but with a much smaller smile, my bear can hatred now consuming each mile.

Large heavy plastic, digging into my back. Difficult to open and impossible to pack. Mr. Regulator, your rules are so out of whack. I’d really like to kick you in right in Ursack

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Peanut Butter caught up with us during one of our breaks where I was rehearsing my bear can rant. He’d gotten the “all clear” from the doctor and he looked happy to be back on trail. On another break, Chilly Bin gave some Marmite to Peanut Butter to try. It was really entertaining to watch Peanut Butter’s reaction to it. He was humorously vocal about his opinion of the bad taste. I think New Zealand as a country is very strange for eating this tar-like substance.

We started our climb at 6000 feet in elevation and ended the day above 10,000 feet. With some PUDS1 added in, we did almost 5000 feet of elevation gain today; and we did it with full packs loaded with loathsome bear cans. It was very exhausting, but being out of the desert and into the Sequoia National Forest was such a relief.

ForestFor the first time in over 700 miles, I hiked along the side of a creek. The sound of the trickling water was soothing and relaxing. Birds were singing. Water was no longer a worry. The fragrance of pine trees was in the air.

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CreekWe soon stopped for the night and our group of seven are all camped together. It’s me, HoosierDaddy, Tapeworm, Opera, Ziploc, Chilly Bin, and Peanut Butter.

I ate 1500 calories for dinner, and ate a fabulous Beef Stew with Italian polenta from Packit Gourmet. It was as good as eating at a restaurant, except I had the added benefit of also sitting in the forest with a bunch of close friends.

Our trail family supports each other, and everyone genuinely cares for one another. Chilly Bin had a minor, but painful injury to her toe late in the day and our family rallied to help her in any ways we could. We all have days where we need help. This family has pulled me up a couple of times already. I’m glad I could at least try to return the favor. I can’t wait to see how our group handles the Sierra together.

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Lastly, I’m really trying to hike such that I can meet my friend Kate who’s starting the JMT in a couple days. We are trying to meet on 6/3 at a campground near Tyndall Creek, but the timing might be challenging for me. I’m trying to both stay with my trail family, hike to the summit of Mt. Whitney to celebrate Opera’s birthday, and meet Kate on 6/3. Then you add in the fact that I am already rationing food due to poor planning on my part, and this plan gets even more challenging. I guess the future will tell.

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Peanut Butter (left) Circus Act (right)Note: 1 - PUDS is trail talk for Pointless Ups and DownS

PCT - Day 44: 6/1/2018 - views, rocks, plans - 2018-06-02 13:33

Trail miles: 24.7 from 722.2 - 746.9 Miles walked: 25.7

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ah, back in the mountainsAt 5:30 am, I was the first one to leave camp. Chilly Bin and Ziploc followed a few minutes behind.

morning lightI was really enjoying being out of the desert and at altitude. It’s my sweet spot. I hiked silently in the morning listening to black-capped chickadees sing their “Chesse-Burg-er” song. 373

The sunrise with the moon above was a treat for getting out of camp so early. Within five miles, Ziploc caught up with me. We hiked together for a while sometimes in silence and other times with good conversation.

ViewEight miles in we were sitting at a creek filtering water when HoosierDaddy and Chilly Bin caught up. We discussed plans for the day, and as we began hiking away, we saw Tapeworm arrive and he said that he had not seen Opera or Peanut Butter yet. I hoped that Operaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s struggles with the altitude were not getting worse. We hiked past endless rock outcroppings today and views seemed to get better as the day progressed. I stopped to scramble up a few of the interesting looking rocks, including a fun one at the top of our big climb of the day. We had astonishing views over Owens Valley.

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Taking advantage of my Colorado lungs and giant calves, I powered past everyone in our group on the long climb up from Death Canyon Creek up almost two thousand feet in elevation to our lunch spot. Ziploc stayed close and we did a short scramble on a rock outcropping before the others arrived. I bounced around the rocks like a talus monkey. After some pictures, and as we were climbing down, the sky roared loudly as an F-16 jet went screaming across the valley no more that 1000 feet from where I was standing. I yelled â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fuck Yeah!!â&#x20AC;? as it did a barrel roll and disappeared behind more boulders and trees.

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Soon Chilly Bin and HoosierDaddy arrived and we all sat in the sun and ate lunch. I recited my bear can hatred poem to them which got a good laugh. We waited for over an hour hoping to see Opera, Peanut Butter, and Tapeworm, but neither showed up, so we decided to move on to the next water source.

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We continued down the trail as I was practicing trekking pole tricks, singing, and occasionally running. For some reason, I had a unusual amount of energy. I started throwing my trekking poles like a spear into dead logs because it was fun. Chilly Bin and HoosierDaddy watched from a distance behind me, probably questioning my sanity as I would sneak up on dead logs using other trees for cover. Then I would spring from my hiding spot and spear a dead log with a Black Diamond trekking pole. It was silliness to the maximum, but having fun is one of the reasons Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m out here.

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The miles ticked off quickly, and before I knew it, I was standing in some mud at Diaz Creek filtering water and realizing that weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d already come 19 miles.

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Ziploc and I reconvened with HoosierDaddy and Chilly Bin and discussed the plan for the upcoming days, which includes a lot of moving parts.

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We’re trying to get to the summit of Mt. Whitney on Opera’s birthday. We are also trying to set ourselves up for climbing up and over Forester Pass early in the day to avoid sloppy snow. We are also trying to accommodate a couple of people (myself and Ziploc) that probably didn’t bring enough food. And I am also trying to meet up with my friend Kate who is doing the JMT. I hope to either see her tomorrow in between Cottonwood Pass and Crabtree Meadows, or possibly the day after at Tyndall Creek Campground. I may end up doing an insanely long day to make that happen. Ziploc and I communicated the concern that if we stopped to early today that we’d have to do a 380

long day on the day before climbing up Whitney and Forester Pass the following day. Chilly Bin and HoosierDaddy were both exhausted from the back to back big days with lots of elevation gain. Therefore Ziploc and I continued by ourselves, wondering aloud what came of Tapeworm, Opera, and Peanut Butter. After hiking almost another four miles with about 1000 feet in elevation gain, fatigue finally hit us. We setup camp in a completely vacant valley just past Poison Meadow Spring. We ate dinner together and the food felt like not enough calories to replace the energy I used during todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 25 miles. After dinner, it cooled down rapidly, so we retired to our respective tents. We then chatted across our vestibules and airdropped pictures to one another. It was cold after the sun went down. We are at 11,000 feet in elevation so I guess that makes sense. I had a bunch of chores to do, which took until after hiker midnight. I also realized that I need to make significant tent repairs soon, or else Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be forced to buy a new one. I plan on trying to do these repairs during a long lunch break tomorrow.

Linda (2018-06-03 11:36:26)

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You're making great daily progress. My husband (Turbo, 64yo) summited Mt. Whitney this morning (6/3). You'll probably pass him in a few days, if you haven't already. Be safe, good luck, have fun. --Random Internet Commenter

Gandalf (2018-06-04 00:18:23) Love your reflections! Hoping to meet up with you guys again in the near future! Say hi to the rest Of your trail-family for me!

PCT - Day 45: 6/2/2018 - Meeting Kate - 2018-06-03 21:47

Trail miles: 14.9 from 746.9 - 761.8 Miles walked: 15.1

sunriseI woke just in time to capture a beautiful sunrise over Poison Meadow. Early in the morning, I was 382

completely wrecked. I had simply overdone it the previous day and I had pitched my tent on a slope with rocks under it, so I slept like shit.

Morning viewI was in full slow moving zombie mode all the way to Chicken Spring Lake. HoosierDaddy and Chilly Bin has caught up with us at Cottonwood Pass where Ziploc and I were sitting and utilizing the first internet connection weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d had in days. I was able to communicate with my friend Kate who was starting the JMT today to find out she was a few hours from joining up with the PCT near Cottonwood Pass.

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Chicken Spring LakeWhen we stopped at Chicken Spring Lake to get water and take in the views, I was in a bad mood from lack of sleep. This place reminded me of several alpine lakes Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen in Colorado, but I was too tired and exhausted from the previous day to really enjoy it. I actually laid down in the dirt on the trail while others filtered water and fell asleep for a few minutes.

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When we got going again, I lagged behind the group until I started eating like crazy. After inhaling 400 calories of almonds, I caught up with Chilly Bin. We were walking together when we saw Ziploc’s pack in the trail. This is usually a sign that the hiker is off trail going to the bathroom. I joked that as we walk by that we should just yell “I see you!” even though we had no idea where Ziploc was. So Chilly Bin did exactly that right as we walked by. Ziploc popped up from behind a boulder quickly pulling her pants up and laughing. Around 11:30 am the four of us again discussed our concern that we hadn’t seen Opera, Peanut Butter, or Tapeworm for a day and a half. We agreed to stop and wait for them even if it meant we would have to take an extra day and thereby causing our need to ration food even more than we were already. This also allowed us to wait for Kate, which I knew was behind us at this point.

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left to right: Ziploc, HoosierDaddy, Circus Act, Chilly Bin We stopped around mile 756 and sat in various patches of shade, and moved occasionally as the sun 386

infiltrated our shady spots. We waited for four hours. We occupied the time with music, jokes, conversations, and the occasional nap. After we ate, I farted and apologized to the group. Then came the funniest quote of the day. Ziploc responded to my apology by saying â&#x20AC;&#x153;I am also pooping.â&#x20AC;? As soon as she said it she realized her German to English translation was off slightly, but HoosierDaddy, Chilly Bin, and I were already in fits of laughter. We all knew what she meant to say. Ziploc even managed to laugh at herself this time too. Around 2:30 pm we received news from a couple of hikers that they had seen our friends a few miles back at Chicken Spring Lake. This was good news for us to know that they were just taking their time and not injured or something.

We agreed to wait another hour and then proceed to the next water source almost five miles further.

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At 3:30 pm we still hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seen anyone so we hiked down to Rock Creek where we avoided having to ford this creek by crossing on a dead log upstream a ways.

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After crossing, we agreed to push onward to Guyot Creek to get a brutally steep 900 foot climb out of the way before tomorrow. I went into my climbing uphill mode and powered up this 900 feet in about 30 minutes. I was drenched in sweat when I reached the top. The others rolled in one by one and we setup camp. As I was filtering water, I saw Kate crossing the creek about 50 feet away. I couldn’t believe it. I ran over and said “Hi” and she glanced my way and said “Hello”, and briefly she didn’t recognize me. A second later she did and she smiled and we hugged. The odds of us meeting here were so unlikely, yet it happened on her first day on trail. She has planned her JMT trip to start on June 2nd and I had started hiking the PCT on April 19th. And somehow, we met at exactly mile 761.8 of my hike 45 days later. It really was nothing short of perfect timing. I introduced her to my trail family and she fit in right away. We sat in a circle and ate dinner together. I could tell Kate was tired. She had a long first day with over 4000 feet of elevation gain. On the flip side, I had done one of my shortest days in a while and rested while hanging out with my good friends for a long memorable afternoon in the California sun.

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campsiteTomorrow we are going to try to climb up Mt. Whitney. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be a long day, but the forecast is stellar. We hope when we descend back to the Crabtree Meadows ranger station in the afternoon that weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see Opera and get to wish her a happy birthday.

Fred Wilbur (2018-06-04 10:54:00) In the picture of you four resting, those bear cans look huge! And, what is with Chilly Bin's feet? Why are they so red?

Adam Wilbur (2018-06-05 14:48:21) She has been hiking in sandals for over 200 miles

Anonymous (2018-06-06 22:58:58) I'm wearing socks!

Johanna Greenough (2018-06-06 05:39:54) 390

What is in a bear can, anyway?

Fred Wilbur (2018-06-06 11:06:55) Gummy bears

PCT - Day 46: 6/3/2018 - Mt Whitney - 2018-06-05 20:35

Trail miles: 4.5 from 761.8 - 766.3 Miles walked: 22.3 (side trip up Mt. Whitney)

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We left camp early around 5:15 am with the goal of climbing Mt. Whitney. The scenery was simply stunning all day long. It started to get really scenic a couple miles before Crabtree Meadows and continued to be amazing all day long. We started our fun with two adventurous creek crossings a few miles into our day. All of us somehow managed to stay dry though barely.

crossing creek

Chilly Bin hiked with us past Timberline Lake but she had been ill much of the morning and she made the call to turn back. We were saddened by that, but I respect her for making a tough yet probably correct decision based on how she was feeling.

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Snow FieldKate, Ziploc, HoosierDaddy, and myself kept pushing up the mountain. The trail meandered through large boulders, snow fields, Whitney Creek, and breathtaking alpine lakes. Marmots scuttled around digging into the tundra for whatever it is they eat.

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MarmotI was feeling exceptionally strong today and moved up the mountain with ease. The altitude was barely noticeable to me. The others were also keeping a good pace, but my body has never felt so strong as it did today. I liked to race ahead just to be able to turn back to take photos of my friends. I would also stop to scramble on the occasional rock outcropping just for fun.

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Kate, Ziploc, HoosierDaddy We took a short break around 12,200 feet which was above the picturesque Guitar Lake which is aptly named since from above it looks like a guitar. Towers of granite rose from all around us. The sky was a pure blue with nearly no clouds to be seen.

Taking a break 395

Guitar LakeWe hiked across several snow chutes, some with dangerous run outs if one were to slip. Parts of the trail were under water from melting snow. At 14,200 feet, I had stopped to wait for my friends after another burst of energy. I wanted to summit with this amazing group of people. We all walked to the summit together and pictures were taken. It was so nice on the summit. There was almost no wind, and it was even warm enough for me to walk around barefoot while drying my socks in the sun.

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Summit We had made it to the summit by 1:30 pm after leaving the Crabtree Meadows ranger station just before 9:00 am. We spent almost two full hours on the summit just enjoying the views, each other, and the perfect weather. It was much different than my last visit to this summit in November of 2014.

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Circus Act with Kate on Mt WhitneyAround 3:00 pm, we finally began our descent. On the way down, I rolled an ankle. Ziploc post-holed in some snow and banged her knee on a rock. Kate was feeling the effects of mild altitude sickness or possibly mild dehydration.

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DescentHoosierDaddy even busted a trekking pole on the descent. Still nothing could remove the smiles from our faces. The day was full of humorous conversation, and some really touching sincere moments too. Ziploc even taught us how to curse in German.

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back to campWhen we arrived back at camp, we were happily surprised to see Opera, Tapeworm, and Peanut Butter. We sang Opera “Happy Birthday” and Ziploc presented her with a birthday cake flavored protein cookie and a bow she’d been carrying since Tehachapi. Later Tapeworm put a candle in another cookie and we sang Happy Birthday again. Opera was clearly moved by this act as she choked back tears of joy.

Happy Birthday Opera!Tomorrow Tapeworm, Opera, Peanut Butter, and Chilly Bin are going to climb Mt. Whitney. I hope they succeed. I worry a bit since I know each of them have experienced some recent struggles with altitude.

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filtering waterHoosierDaddy has decided to take a trail zero day and just chill at Crabtree Meadows tomorrow. As for the rest of us, Ziploc, Kate, and I will decide what to do in the morning. The climb up and over the PCTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s highest point on Forester Pass awaits us, as does a potentially dangerous ford of Tyndall Creek. Ziploc and I are trying to find a tough balance between waiting for the rest of our trail family, and not running out of food and toilet paper. Additionally, I am having another related dilemma. I really want to enjoy the Sierra with my trail family. At the same time, I really enjoy hiking with Kate and would love the opportunity to do that. She however cannot wait for my trail family since she has a fixed timeline on when she has to finish the JMT. All I know is that more tough days in the Sierra are ahead. Yet the toughest thing, for me at least, is making a decision on what to do with regards to my hiking plans.

PCT - Day 47: 6/4/2018 - Forester Pass - 2018-06-06 09:13

Trail miles: 16.7 from 766.3 - 783.0 Miles walked: 18.9

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Water and SnowHugs are something that people in the city do way less than they should. Out here, it’s different. Love and camaraderie are ever present and it’s acceptable to show it openly. I hugged each member of my trail family multiple times today. It started in the morning as Tapeworm, Opera, Peanut Butter, and Chilly Bin were heading out of camp around 7:00 am to go climb Mt. Whitney. HoosierDaddy was also staying in camp so he would be able to hike with this group. We all knew that with Kate, Ziploc, and myself hiking on today that we may not see each other for a while, so hugs were shared and feelings openly communicated. I choked back tears with each person’s embrace. I’m going to miss each one of these great people more than they’ll ever know. I hope we can meet back up again soon. Leaving much later than normal, Kate, Ziploc, and I hiked a bonus mile back to the PCT not even imagining how our day would turn out.

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Morning ViewI stopped to capture a close up of a chipmunk since they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t exist in Germany and Ziploc really wanted a picture for her family back home.

American ChipmunkAfter a few miles, our legs were just getting warmed up when we had to ford Wallace Creek. We changed into Crocs and walked across it easily with water only coming up to our 403

knees. Mosquitoes swarmed us and after killing five mosquitoes on one of my legs, I just raced up the hill hiking in my Crocs since stopping to put my shoes back on meant certain death from a thousand mosquito bites.

Less than a mile later we forded Wright Creek, which was also not too bad, but it was cold. At the top of a climb after Wright Creek which was above the tree line, I walked off trail about 1/10 of a mile to wash my shirt in a crystal clear alpine lake. It was simply stunning.

Alpine LakeThree miles later it was Tyndall Creek which was raging. It was now approaching midday and the snow melt was swelling all the creeks and streams. We scouted upstream and downstream and Ziploc and Kate found a safe spot for us to cross. The water was just over the knee, but it definitely had a powerful current behind it.

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Creek CrossingWe took a quick break to put our dry shoes back on, eat, and put on more sunscreen. The sun was very hot and as a result, I was worried about the snow conditions we’d find on Forester Pass which was just five miles further. Normally I wouldn’t even consider hiking up and over a high pass that has a ton of snow late in the day. But, Ziploc and I were very low on food and we needed to get to town via Kersarge Pass which was still ten more miles after Forester Pass, not counting the fact that we still had 7.5 more bonus miles before we’d reach a trail head. Then from there we’d then have to figure out how to hitch 20ish miles into town. So, we had to push over Forester Pass in the afternoon heat, in prime post-holing conditions.

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We leapfrogged with a couple hikers named Monster and Cheez-It. They would end up climbing up the Pass with us for the later half of the ascent which got more and more dicey as we gained elevation. Forester Pass is the highest point on the PCT at 13,200 feet. The snow started in small patches around 11,400 feet. By 12,000 feet there was more snow than rock and much of the snow was covering semifrozen alpine lakes. The trail was hidden for much of the climb. I led the group across rock ribs and across snowfields with the occasional punching through the snow up to my knee, sometimes my thigh.

snow patchesWe bounced through talus fields and climbed up some granite. We also navigated tricky snow bridges over raging streams. Our hike had become a mountaineering adventure. I was having so much fun even though I cursed with every post-hole into the snow.

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Kate post-holingKate and I had hiked through crap like this before in Colorado, albeit with lighter packs. And weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d always had boots, gaiters, and snowshoes, not the trail runners we were all sporting today. Ziploc on the other hand had never even hiked in the snow before. She embraced the suck well and was a quick learner. By the end of the day, she was a pro and had learned a lot.

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TalusNear the top of Forester Pass, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a really steep snow chute to cross. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a place where a fall likely would result in death. After putting on Microspikes, I led the way across. Ziploc followed while I took a video and pictures and offered encouragement. She made it 90% of the way across and then slipped. She hit rock when trying to stop herself with her ice ax, but fortunately her feet also hit a large boulder where she stopped immediately. I ran over to help her up. She was understandably shaken a bit. It was a hair-raising experience for all of us.

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Ziploc on show chute

Kate on snow chuteKate followed without issue as did Monster and Cheez-It. A few switchbacks more and we were all standing on the highest point on the PCT. It was 3:30 pm.

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Ziploc, Kate, Circus Act on Forester Pass We still had a long descent left, and we had no idea that it would take us just under three hours to cover the next two miles.

descentThe descent was arduous, post-holing was frequent, shoes sopping wet, feet cold, and the trail mostly invisible. We tried to follow the trail via Guthook GPS, but often snow conditions would dictate an 410

alternate route. I got stuck in the snow twice briefly when post-holing up to my waist. My legs were getting shredded with each plunge into the snow since I was wearing shorts. We down-climbed a face that was way too technical to be doing with full backpacking packs complete with hated bear cans. We took it slow with full concentration on each step and with each plant of a trekking pole.

Kate post-holingLaughs were still had, mostly at each other post-holing through snow bridges into streams underneath. We also laughed to keep the mood light since the suffering was on full tilt. After what felt like a decade, we finally reached a visible trail. It was a joyous moment and more hugs were shared.

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snow bridge The trail was so full of water from melting snow that it was basically like walking down a creek. My feet were so wet already that I just got to the point where I gave zero fucks. I splashed right down the center of the trail, water reaching my calves.

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water from snow meltSlowly, the water on the trail became less and Ziploc spotted a beautiful campsite with glorious evening views looking back at the mountain we’d just come over.

End of Day viewAfter setting up tents, we sat together and ate a well deserved dinner. We talked about our memorable day. It’s a day I’ll never forget. We’d survived this crazy day only with help from each other. The three of us bonded forever by Forester Pass on a hot day in early June. I hope the rest of our trail family hits this pass earlier in the day when the snow is more solid. Tomorrow we’ll hike six more PCT miles to Kearsarge Pass and then 7.5 bonus miles. There’s a shower, laundry, and hopefully a burger with a pound of bacon awaiting me.

PCT - Day 48: 6/5/2018 - Kearsarge Pass - 2018-06-06 09:56

Trail miles: 5.9 from 783.0 - 788.9 Miles walked: 16.5 (mostly bonus miles over Kearsarge Pass)

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Morning lightWe woke up to alpine glow on the mountains above our majestic campsite. It was a cold morning with frost covering the tundra around us.

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Morning FrostWe packed up, put on our wet shoes and got moving in an attempt to stay warm. Of course having a cold creek to ford at 6:45 am is always fun too. There was a log that crossed the creek, but it was at least 6 feet above a raging part of the water. A fall from that log would have been nightmarish. Therefore we opted to just ford the creek in our already wet shoes.

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Creek CrossingWalking towards the junction of the PCT and the trail to Kearsarge Pass was incredibly scenic. Towers of granite protruded above the pines which rose from the valley floor. Sunlight illuminated the rock and reflected off the water of the loud creek that paralleled the trail. At the turn off to Kearsarge Pass the trail steepened sharply. The hike up was slow and arduous. I had less than 1000 calories off food to last me this hike out to town and I was feeling sluggish. Bullfrog Lake was the first of a few stunningly clear lakes we passed today. As we gained elevation, more lakes and waterfalls would appear. The beauty of this place is really difficult to capture.

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Bullfrog LakeWe ran into Gandalf near the top of Kearsarge Pass and exchanged a few words. He had just resupplied and was heading back to the PCT. When we reached the top of the pass, I took my pack off and scrambled up some rocks. On the top, I found a ceramic plaque left on a large boulder on the top. Briefly I pondered why this spot was so special to the person mentioned on the plaque and/or the person that left it up there.

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Rest StopAfter climbing down from the rocks, Ziploc and Kate told me about a guy we’d seen twice that morning. He was carrying a garden hose strapped to the back of his pack. The ladies asked him out of curiosity why he was carrying it. The guy simply responded with “I’ve got to get it to Canada.” The girls struggled to control their laughter when hearing this and as the guy walked off laughter erupted.

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From Kearsarge Pass to the Onion Valley trail head was four beautiful miles. More scenic lakes framed by snow-capped peaks, waterfalls, and trickling streams. At one of the bigger lakes, I arrived to find Ziploc and Kate with their packs off filtering some water. It was very hot, so I dropped my pack, took off my shirt, and went for a swim.

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The water was very cold albeit refreshing. I was only in for 20 seconds and then got out and back into the sun to warm up. I then realized I was missing the sunglasses that had been on top of my head. The three of us walked back to the spot where Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d went swimming. From the shore, I could see my sunglasses about 10 feet out and 5 feet down. I waded out using trekking poles for balance on the slick rocks. With trout swimming around my legs I lifted my sunglasses from the floor of the lake with my toes.

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Circus Act - sunglasses fetchingWith my second swim complete, we all raced down the trail to the trail head with thoughts of showers and food circling our heads. When we arrived at the trail head, it was a ghost town; only a couple other thru hikers sitting in one tiny patch of shade. It was 98 degrees. We started walking Onion Valley Road which is over twelve miles into town. I walked ahead of the girls who had stopped where they had a cell signal to try to contact a trail angel for a ride. I walked for three miles and only one car had driven by and it had been full with the other hikers weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d seen. I rested in the shade of a single pine tree in the hot and desert terrain. To my surprise, a car rounded the hairpin turn above me and pulled over. Ziploc and Kate were already inside and a wonderful woman who had been day hiking picked me up also. She drove us to the town of Independence where Kate and I had both 421

mailed resupply packages.

Onion Valley Road After hitting the post office, we walked across the scorching street to a gas station where I was disappointed to find that they were sold out of soda. My dreams of a cold Mt. Dew dashed in an instant. I settled for a bag of chili cheese Fritos and a Gatorade. We decided the town of Independence sucked, so we hitched to Lone Pine. We got a ride within two minutes from a great guy named Cameron. He was so awesome that even after driving past the hostel we were going to, he turned around and drove us back. Kindness like this is a rare quality in a person these days. We checked in, showered, did laundry across the street, and made some phone calls. I talked with my 422

daughter who’s taking a few classes at college this summer. It was great to hear her voice. I miss her so much.

HostelWe ate dinner at a great Chinese restaurant where we dined with an elderly couple who’d also been waiting for a table. The five of us shared a table for six. During dinner we got to know Jim and Eve. Hiker hunger was in full effect for me. Before dinner, I had drank a 32 oz. double IPA, ate a banana and 7 double stuff Oreos. At dinner, I ate a plate of fried wontons and a family portion of Kung Pao. When I was done eating, Kate offered me the rest of her dinner which she couldn’t finish. I inhaled that too. After leaving the restaurant, we walked to the store and bought ice cream sandwiches. Tomorrow we’re going eat as much as humanly possible and then try to get back up to that remote trail head somehow. We’ll continue our hike in the Sierra and push onward to our next resupply in about 90 miles or so.

Cameron Shepherd (2018-06-06 14:01:01) 423

Glad you guys got a good meal! Thanks for keeping me company for a few miles. Looking forward to following the rest of your progress!

PCT - Day 49: 6/6/2018 - insomnia, honker breakfast, and thoughts 2018-06-11 23:11

Trail miles: 1.0 from 788.9 - 789.9 Miles walked: 11.1 (bonus miles in town and back over Kearsarge Pass again)

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After battling insomnia from 1:00 am till 3:30 am, I finally slept a bit. I woke at 7:30am from starvation. I quickly packed up my stuff and ate seven double stuff Oreo's in the process. I then walked to the post office and sent my bounce box 300 miles further to South Lake Tahoe and made my way over to the Alabama Hills Cafe in Lone Pine. Then began my effort to eat everything on the menu. Soon I was joined by Ziploc and Kate. My breakfast was ordered in four parts and consisted of: 4 pieces of French Toast, 3 pieces of bacon, 2 425

fried eggs, a large glass of orange juice, an side order of biscuits & gravy, a large homemade oatmeal and raisin cookie, and a side of home fries. After paying the first of six monthly payments on my breakfast bill, I got frustrated watching my two breakfast mates stare at their phones, so I left. I was already craving a Mt Dew, so I went to the store to and bought one. While loitering in front on the hostel in Lone Pine, I ate a banana which was one of three I had brought the previous day. Kate and Ziploc has migrated from the restaurant to the hostel with phones still glued to their eyes. While eating that banana and drinking Mt Dew, I scored us a ride back to Independence when a guy and his wife walked up to a car which was parked in front of the bench we were sitting at. When driving us back, he pointed out a series of buildings on this road and told us it used to be an interment camp where Japanese Americans were held during World War II. He dropped us off in Independence and wished us well. I walked to the gas station and ate an entire bag of red hots candy and drank a big Gatorade. We then parked our butts in the shade and waited for two hours before scoring a hitch back up Onion Valley Road to the trailhead. A great guy and former thru hiker named Steve took seven hikers including Ziploc, Kate, and me. The first hour of the hike back up to Kearsarge Pass was majorly shitty. My body was not happy with the heavy pack loaded with almost six days of food. My digestive system was also not happy having a hip belt cinched tight after my historic breakfast. As a result, Kate and Ziploc were ahead of me and my mind had time to wander, ponder, and wonder again. I thought a lot about my life, and who I was. I thought about my family and friends. I realized that my wife and I had barely talked for almost two months. There had only been two phone calls and a few text messages mostly concerning resupply stuff and our dogs. I realized that I wasn’t really missed at home. Apparently the challenges my marriage had been undergoing for the last couple of years hadn’t changed with me away hiking the PCT. I pulled my buff up over my face and cried as I walked by myself. I hiked past waterfalls, pristine lakes, and brightly colored birds and they didn’t even matter at that moment. Because that moment, I was acutely aware that I was not really loved in my own home anymore. I knew I was loved by my daughter and a few members of my extended family, but that is different. Plus, my daughter is away at college and my family is all back east. When I go home after the PCT, I suspect it might be like walking into work after a long absence; people politely acknowledging you are back and maybe even happy to see you, but there would be nobody ecstatic and jumping into your arms because 426

they missed you. Before I started hiking, I suspected my life would be different when I got home after finishing the trail. I also suspected I would be different as a person. Back during my preparation for this hike, I wrote in my blog about how important it was for me to hike the PCT and how it was a life ultimatum of sorts. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think anyone even read that with the exception of my father. Or maybe they did and thought I was just depressed or being dramatic. Either way, this trail is more than just an 18 inch wide swath of dirt that runs from Mexico to Canada. It is five months of hope.

Lost in thought, I drowned out others with music in my headphones. I simply walked by a group of hikers including Kate and Ziploc on the top of Kearsarge Pass. I kept hiking deliberately only escaping my head long enough to snap some pictures of deer grazing above Bullfrog Lake.

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Ziploc and Kate were noticeably annoyed with my isolating behavior. The sun has already set and they wanted to camp. I pointed out a good tent site and encouraged them to camp there. I continued walking up towards Glen Pass. They apparently were upset that I continued hiking and caught up to me. Ziploc yelled something at me that I only heard half of but I caught the key message which was â&#x20AC;&#x153;Fuck Offâ&#x20AC;?. They powered on ahead as I sat on a stone and again lost myself in my thoughts.

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After a few minutes, I started walking again. I walked by Ziploc and Kate as they were setting up their tents. I just wanting to be alone and found a camping spot on a ledge overlooking the fading light in the west. I camped alone. I ate Ramen Noodles and seven more Oreo's. I stayed up till 11 pm, well past hiker midnight and gazed at the stars in the moonless night. I let my mind race away with more destructive thought patterns until sleep eventually consumed me.

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Unknown (2018-06-12 11:01:31) This is especially hard for your wife to see that you are misinterpreting my attempts to not be the reason you leave the trail. You have expressed before that after talking to me you have battled wanting to get off trail and come home. I am saddened that you in your darkness have also convinced yourself that we never talked about your post about needing to hike the PCT. And more saddened that we cannot talk about this all in person. As I think you should know, I am not one who typically blogs or shares feelings on the internet but this is the only means of reaching you right now. I do love you and I do follow your posts and try not to put too much feeling out there so that you can succeed in your endeavor. I try very hard to support you, try to allow you to experience the PCT without having to worry about home. It seems I have missed the mark...again.

PCT - Day 50: 6/7/2018 - Mile 800 and bear encounter - 2018-06-11 23:36

Trail miles: 13.4 from 789.9 - 803.3 Miles walked: 14.6

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Condensation covered my tent when I unzipped my sleeping bag to get up and use the bathroom. It was 5:15 am. Normally I would just start hiking, but today I was really depressed, so I just crawled back in my sleeping bag and put headphones in and listened to some music. First, Le nozze di Figaro performed by Sofia National Opera Orchestra followed by The Sound of Silence by Disturbed, the some Joyner Lucas, and so on.

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I finally extracted myself from my sleeping bag around 6:45 am. I was hiking fifteen minutes later. Once I slogged my way to the top of Glen Pass, I stopped and dropped my pack and scrambled up a ridge to a short 12,000 foot summit of some sort. The climbing was exhilarating and gave me a burst of energy and put me in a good mood for about 20 minutes, although I still hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t smiled today. As I was putting on Microspikes, Kate and Ziploc walked up. I hiked with them for about three minutes before the slow pace drove me crazy. I passed them and jogged down the snow slopes, using my trekking poles for third and fourth feet. I was being reckless a bit but I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t care. I passed a ton of people that were all moving snail-like for some reason. I get the impression that Kate and Ziploc were upset with my hasty descent of the mountain, because they basically walked right by me as I was sitting on a rock waiting for them. Once again something I did pissed someone off; surprise.

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After descending Glen Pass, the scenery was spectacular. The Rae Lakes were amazing. I was still in an ugly place mentally and feeling lethargic on top of it. My body was shutting down. I desperately just wanted to sleep. After crossing a series of islands to the other side of the lake, I collapsed in the dirt on the side of the trail. I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even take my pack off. I slept briefly and woke up when the sun was burning my legs. I got moving again but my body was failing. My energy level lowest it has been in 800 miles.

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Regardless, I plodded along. After fording a lake outlet that was thigh high, I was walking silently down the trail and caught movement in front of me. I looked up and saw a thin cinnamon colored bear. He was on the trail coming the other way. He was only twenty feet away from me. I instinctively stepped backwards, but only one step. We kept eye contact for about five seconds. He then nonchalantly stepped off trail. I quickly reached for my camera but it had been stowed for the river ford I had just completed. Instead I grabbed my phone and got a couple decent shots as he wandered off.

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I had a slight burst of energy after seeing the bear and after hiking another couple of miles, I saw Ziploc and Kate under a tree eating lunch. They invited me to join so I did. After eating, I opened up to both of them and explained what was on my mind and why I was in such a dark mood the last 24 hours. This was met initially with some understanding, however I would later regret this at dinner time. In the afternoon, I tried hiking at a reasonable speed, but my body was failing. I was light-headed, fatigued, and simply exhausted. My energy level was again in the pits. I wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even really into the fact that we passed mile 800. The trail meandered along the side of an intense creek that had numerous waterfalls, but the scenery couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even cheer me up.

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Ziploc was getting frustrated with me. I could only repeat to her that I simply felt like shit. This dynamic made Kate uneasy too, or maybe she was also just sick of my dark mood and my related lethargic actions too. At dinner, it all came to a head when Ziploc told me I was being childish. My dark mood and constant explanation of my slowness and exhaustion was interpreted as childish behavior apparently. My response to her was a defensive one. I told her that nobody was forcing her to hike with me and she could go hike by herself if she wanted. I told her I didn’t give a shit, even though I really did. It’s then that I realized that Kate is stuck in the middle of all this bull shit. I decided I would separate myself from both of them tomorrow somehow to make this drama go away. I privately explained this to Kate so she’d understand. I went back to my tent and cried. Last night, I realized my family at home didn’t love me. Tonight, I probably lost two friends, and likely my entire trail family that I loved. All this because of some mood swings that are beyond my control. I fucking hate bipolar disorder.

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campsiteI guess I shouldn’t even bother writing about that too right? After all a mental health problem is just childish bull shit right? I’m planning on waking up whenever I get up and hiking nonstop until I physically can’t move a muscle. I sort of secretly hope I fucking die in the process.

Anonymous (2018-06-12 10:25:33) Hey Man! It takes a lot of courage to open up to people. Just be mindful that you are giving us a wide open look into your mind. Ziploc, Kate and the rest of them only get glimpses of what you share with us. Keep sharing, know there's a bunch of us reading your journals and pulling for you. I guess you already have the answer, you said it on this post. You have bipolar disorder, just know this, when you're mind is going to that dark place, just know, just remember, bipolar means that you will eventually get to that 439

bright place that makes you enjoy life and build friendships. I bet when Ziploc, Kate and the others read your journals, they'll get a better understanding of what was going on.

PCT - Day 51: 6/8/2018 - Fording Creeks and hellish descent - 2018-0612 00:22

Trail miles: 17.2 from 803.3 - 820.5 Miles walked: 19.4

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I woke up in a better mood, and definitely had more energy. I felt guilty for being in such a dark place the previous day, so I just wished Ziploc and Kate the happiest of hikes and set off at 5:30am. Guilt over being an asshole tempted me to go back and edit the blog post I wrote yesterday, but I decided not to out of integrity of my writing. I also think in brings up some awareness of how bipolar disorder cripples those unfortunate enough to have it. It can really destroy oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s life and relationships. Today would be a double dose of tough climbs. My first goal of the day was Pinchot Pass at 12,107 feet. Later, in the afternoon, I would tackle Mather Pass at 12,094 feet.

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We had camped at about 10,300 feet. After leaving camp, I put on some music and climbed in great snow conditions. I found myself at the top of the Pinchot Pass at 7:30am by myself. I descended quickly to avoid having to walk on warm snow. For now, the snow was still mostly solid. I passed several lakes on my way down including the beautiful Majorie Lake, which is about where the snow gave way to the trail again. I say that word â&#x20AC;&#x153;trailâ&#x20AC;? lightly, since this time of year the trail is often a stream. Walking all day with wet feet is quite normal in June in the Sierra.

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On my way down, I had a trifecta of minor snafus. First, I sprained my right ankle (again) when I had a loose rock move under my other foot. Second, while I was filtering water, my sunglasses slipped off the top of my head and broke. They are now held together with duct tape. Third, I got bit twice by a fire ant after I forded the South Fork Kings River at 10,000 feet. This spot is the low point in between the two passes.

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The ford of this river is the first I would say was tricky. The current was fast, with white water at thigh level. I was worried how Ziploc and Kate would do there, so I waited for them. About 30 minutes later, they showed up and I went back into the water to assist, even though Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m confident they could have done it without me. I also thought it was a good way for me to let them know I still cared and was sorry for being difficult to get along with the previous day. Everyone made it across safely.

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I pushed on to Mather Pass while Kate and Ziploc took a lunch break. The climb to this pass involved 445

fording several creeks. All the creeks fed into the South Fork Kings River, which I would end up fording again too.

Near 10,800 feet, the snow became more prevalent. I had a decent sized creek to cross and it looked pretty deep. I saw a snow bridge to my right about 50 feet. The bridge was noticeably thin. I poked the thinnest part with a trekking pole and the snow fell into the creek below leaving just a hole from the snow basket on the end on my pole. I poked a thicker spot further out and it held after a couple of hard jabs. I would have to leap about 5 feet to avoid the weak part of the snow bridge. I gave it a running start since doing this with a 35 lb pack on your back is harder than it sounds. I landed and it held. I continued my climb with snow conditions worsening. I post-holed often. My lower legs were taking a beating. Often you post-hole into the snow and your shin, knee, or ankle hits a hidden rock. The snow also causes many small lacerations all over your lower legs too. It was slow going, but eventually I found a rock rib and followed it to where the trail intersected. On an actual trail, elevation was once again gained with relative ease. I arrived at the top at 2:30 pm and ate a late lunch. I could see the route down and it looked like it would rival the Forester Pass descent that we also did in the afternoon. I decided to wait for Kate and Ziploc. I knew they were behind me, because I had seen them as little tiny people climbing up when I was on the final couple of switchbacks near the top.

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When they made it to the top, we celebrated briefly, but we all knew the hellish descent that awaited us. Coming down from Mather Pass was really slow. It took the three of us almost three hours to descend just over 1000 feet in some of the worst snow conditions Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d ever seen. Trapdoor snow was everywhere. I was up to my waist several times. Sometimes it took 60 seconds to free oneself from the ugly post-hole. I had one leg in a hole and one leg still above at one point and thought I wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be able to extract myself, but eventually I did.

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We tried to stick to the rocks as much as we could, but it was impossible to avoid crossing snowfields. Kate and Ziploc were having a rough go of it too. It was such an arduous descent. At about 11,300 after enduring this hell for about two hours. Ziploc post-holed really bad for about the hundredth time in the last 30 minutes. She pulled herself out after laying in the snow dejected for a few seconds.

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When she crawled onto the boulder that Kate and I were standing on, she started hyperventilating and couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t breathe. I undid her pack straps and Kate and I helped her sit up. Exhausted and frustrated with the endless snow, Ziploc just had a brief breakdown and told us she was going to camp on this rock. Kate and I explained that we were not leaving her there. Kate gave her a few gummy bears and I gave her my water w/ electrolytes. After only a couple minutes Ziploc pulled it together and we continued our descent. I followed a stream just to stay out of the terrible snow. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pretty bad when you opt to walk through ankle deep water to avoid post-holing in the snow.

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At 6:15 pm, our hell had finished and we were back again walking on a trail that resembled a stream. Everyone was hungry, exhausted, and mentally spent. We walked along the edge of a ledge overlooking the Palisade Lakes while walking over and under waterfalls. The sun was dropping towards the horizon so we stopped to eat dinner on a beautiful spot with views of mountains in multiple directions, a waterfall above us, and a crystal blue lake beneath us.

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After dinner we hiked another 1/2 mile to a spectacular campsite along the lakeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edge.

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We all quickly setup our tents and climbed in to take off our soaking wet shoes and put on dry socks. The sunset was beautiful, and one I’ll remember for a long time. Before everyone went to sleep, I offered sincere apologies to both Ziploc and Kate for my bad mood yesterday. They each agreed to forgive me and I hugged each of them.

Tomorrow is an easier day. We’ll drop elevation and then climb back up to a tent site just before Muir Pass. We are making sure we never again go over one of these high passes in the afternoon. My legs feel like they’ve been through a cheese grater. Hopefully sleep will help.

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Circus Act's tent

PCT - Day 52: 6/9/2018 - Frozen Socks, Raging Creeks and Beauty - 201806-12 08:07

Trail miles: 14.6 from 820.5 - 835.1 Miles walked: 15.5

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Last nightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s campsite was the best Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve ever had. I woke up in the middle of the night last night before the sliver of the moon had risen. The stars were incredible, with clear views of the Milky Way.

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Morning lightTodayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s objective involved getting to a good high camp on the approach to Muir Pass, which put us just under 15 miles per the plan. Our late start time at 7:00 am was still early enough that Kate had frozen socks to start the day.

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Kate's Frozen SocksThe views along Palisade Creek, Glacier Creek, and the Middle Fork Kings River were just unrivaled. John Muir was a visionary in his efforts to protect this place. All day, we saw roaring waterfalls, creeks with crystal clear bluish green waters, stunning meadows, and a healthy forest that provides cover and shade for the napping deer. The only word I can think of to describe the Sierra is magical.

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Raging CreekAt one of the dozens of creek crossings today, my right foot slipped off a log and I fell into the creek with the one leg. My other leg sustained a couple minor lacerations from the log I fell off of to 459

add to the pain since my legs are still raw from post-holing coming down Mather Pass.

Ziplock Crossing on a LogI began a rating system of measuring foot dryness. For example, if someone asked me “How’s your feet?” right after I submerged only my right foot in the water falling off the log, my answer would be “50% dry.”

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Today was an easier day since we did not do any passes, so we took a couple of long breaks and spent time repairing our bodies and our friendships with each other.

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Another Creek During our second lunch break, we all fell asleep in the sun. Kate was laying face down on a rock and was sleeping so deep, that she didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t even wake up when I started poking her with twigs and tossing small pine cones onto her back.

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Ziplock Lunch Break

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Kate Nap on a RockAfter we finally awoke Sleeping Beauty, which is now Kateâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trail name, we hiked up almost 2000 feet to our camp at 10,500 feet. Along the way, we passed one of the most beautiful meadows I have ever seen, with a clear blue creek zigging and zagging throughout it.

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Deer in Meadows

Meadow view of MountainsAt camp Shank and Pocket Knife showed up and we all shared post-holing stories which got laughs now, even though many of our stories recounted tears at the time of the incident.

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CampsiteTomorrow we will start very early to get over Muir Pass and across seven miles of snow before the snow warms up too much. My legs canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take much more of a beating from post-holing. As it is, I have scrapes, cuts, and scratches on all side of my lower legs from ankles to thighs.

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Muir PassWe are also trying to get further up the trail to position ourselves right for Selden Pass the following day. And if thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not enough, we have the most dangerous ford thus far on deck tomorrow when we reach Evolution Creek in the afternoon. Water levels are reportedly waist to chest deep. Tonight I loaded up on calories in hopes of having a ton of energy for this push tomorrow. The Sierra in early June is relentless, but it is also rewarding for the handful of brave souls that dare hike through this area this time of year.

PCT - Day 53: 6/10/2018 - Exhaustion and a missing Sleeping Beauty 2018-06-12 08:40

Trail miles: 20.8 from 835.1 - 855.9 Miles walked: 23.3 We started our day at 5:00 am sharp with the goal of making it up and down Muir a Pass before the snow warmed up too much. Ten minutes into our day we had to ford a creek, and it was ice cold. My toes were numb for the next hour or two. Sleeping Beauty and Ziploc were having a rough day. Ziploc was nursing an injury to her quad muscle. Sleeping Beauty was fatigued and slowed by some Achilles tendinitis. It was also cold and breezy making our early morning snow climb up Muir Pass with numb toes a bit more challenging. To add to the hell, 467

the snow fields we were crossing were sun-cupped. This made every step a potential ankle breaker. We also had more mental toughness tests; like crossing sketchy snow bridges over raging creeks or seeing the steep terrain in front of you, and knowing your suffering will continue until you reach the top.

Crossing Creek on a Snow Bridge Frustration was obvious in both the ladies. I offered encouragement and tried to get them to focus on the positive things like the stunning views, or the fact that we were not post-holing.

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Snow FieldAt about 7:30 am we reached the stone shelter building at the top of Muir Pass. As I walked up, Shank and Pocket Knife walked out of the shelter. We chatted with them for a bit and then they began their descent. We followed about ten minutes later. After we’d descended about 400 feet or so, I saw Pocket Knife walking back up from the frozen lake without her pack. I yelled to her and asked her what she left up at the top. She hollered back that she’d left her iPhone in the shelter. Since I was only 400 feet in elevation away, and she was maybe 600, I told her I’d go get it. I dropped my pack and hauled ass back up. Fifteen minutes later I was jogging back down the snow with her phone in my pocket. She and Shank thanked me for my efforts and offered to buy me a beer in town. I’ll definitely take that beer but would have done that for any friend.

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i-Phone Storage UnitNow we had 25 minutes less to get the hell off the snow which continued for another 3.5 miles. We were side-hilling on sun-cupped snow when I missed a step and sprained my right ankle. I screamed because the pain was intense. I tried to weight it and yelped again in pain. Slowly, after trial and error, I discovered that the pain was only really bad when pushing off with the ball of my foot. So I walked very slowly with weighting only my right foot with the mid foot or heel.

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Side HillingAround 10:00 am, we were approaching the last of the snow fields. Ziploc was in a lot of pain already from what is potentially a torn quad muscle. Then when we were descending the steepest snow slope weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d been on all day, she slipped and slid a short way in the soft wet snow. She got herself up, but was having some trouble getting down. She took out her ice ax for safety and I climbed back up without my pack to kick steps into the snow for her. After a few minutes on this treacherous slope, she made it down, but not without a healthy dose of German curse words. We carefully rock hopped about 100 rocks in the Evolution Lake Inlet. The rocks were mostly submerged from excessive runoff, but still visible. My ankle injury made this exercise slight more difficult, but I managed. Our shoes were already 0% dry so another dose of freezing alpine lake water didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t hurt.

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Evolution LakeWe had finally dropped enough elevation that we were out of the snow to everyoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s relief. Now we found ourselves on the shore of beautiful Evolution Lake. We stopped for a lunch break just after walking past two deer grazing alongside the trail.

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Deer Grazing At lunch, the main topic was how we were all going to run out of food before making it to VVR where our next resupply was awaiting. Sleeping Beauty also voiced concern that the conditions with such challenging snow up high was making it difficult for her to finish the JMT before she had to return home. She was exhausted and needs a rest day, but her schedule doesn’t allow it. Ziploc said that she was done with the snow, and that she was going to skip a section up to Tahoe. We all knew (hoped) she wasn’t serious.

Lunch Stop As lunch ended, we left Evolution Lake and the trout swimming around in clear view from the shore. I was moving slow due to my ankle. Advil and Vicodin didn’t even help. I hiked about two miles and saw Sleeping Beauty and Ziploc waiting for me at a switchback. It was really sweet that they waited for me. It was right about the mile where Ziploc and I crossed the “halfway across California” milestone. I thanked them for waiting but told them that we could all reconvene at the Evolution Creek ford which was reportedly waist deep.

As I descended even more, the rocky trail gave way to soft pine needles which made my ankle happier. The trail followed Evolution Creek much of the afternoon. The creek would roar violently at narrow spots where waterfalls were present, and it other areas where the water widened into a meadow, it was serene and calm. McClure Meadow was like this and was one of the prettiest places I’d ever seen. 473

Evolution Creek Ziploc caught up with me on trail after she’d taken a bathroom break. She told me Sleeping Beauty was still in front of us. However, an hour later when we reached the junction where we’d meet before fording Evolution Creek, Sleeping Beauty was nowhere to be seen. We waited for a bit and then decided to take the alternate crossing which was safer in high water. This was also the crossing that we were discussing earlier with Sleeping Beauty. She was not there either. Ziploc and I decided that she must’ve forded the creek by herself and pressed on to camp since she was tired and probably wanted extra recovery time. Just in case, we stopped and waited for an hour. Mark and Tammy walked by and we asked if they’d seen Kate (a.k.a. Sleeping Beauty) and they said they hadn’t. This made us assume that Sleeping Beauty was ahead of us and probably kicking it at camp already. Ziploc and I hiked another 5.5 miles from 5:30 pm till 8:00 pm and Sleeping Beauty was not at the tent site that we thought she was going to stop at. Unfortunately, we didn’t know if Sleeping Beauty was just catching some Zzz a couple miles ahead of us, or if something worse happened. Ziploc and I were already running on fumes. We were both nursing injuries and hadn’t even eaten dinner and it was 8:00 pm. The sun was setting and we made a difficult decision to stop and camp. Now I lay here in my tent wondering if Sleeping Beauty is snoozing comfortably somewhere or whether she got swept down Evolution Creek. My mind has played so many scenarios. She’s a strong independent 474

woman with a ton of experience. I have to assume sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s OK. But I also know from years of climbing mountains with Kate that this is highly unusual.

Fred Wilbur (2018-06-12 18:26:35) This comment has been removed by the author.

PCT - Day 54: 6/11/2018 - Stalking deer, Located Kate and Food Rationing - 2018-06-14 14:15

Trail miles: 18.0 from 855.9 - 873.9 Miles walked: 20.4

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I started the day hobbling down the trail for the first mile or two. My right ankle was in significant pain until the Vitamin I kicked in. After it warmed up, I was able to walk OK, just not as quickly as normal.

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Welcome to John Muir WildernessToday we left Kings Canyon National Park and entered the John Muir Wilderness area. As if to signify this, a deer actually followed me up the trail for a while.

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I hiked by myself all morning and saw more deer than I did other hikers. I wondered and worried about Sleeping Beauty much of the day. The only other hiker I saw before mid-afternoon passed me while I was filtering water.

Deer thru hikerI climbed the 2800 feet of elevation up Selden Pass by myself. I ate lunch on the top and took inventory of my remaining food. It was depressing. This section had taken me longer than I anticipated, and I was in full rationing mode now.

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The snow on Selden Pass was still annoying but there was much less than all the other passes we had done thus far. Marie Lake was pretty as was Heart Lake on the south side. Heart Lake was semi frozen and it sort of made it look like it should be named Broken Heart Lake.

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After I got away from the lake and out of range of the hoard of mosquitoes following me, I found Ziploc waiting for me next to the trail. We took a break and a short nap. She napped in the shade, while I preferred the sun. Most of my nap time was spent responding to the calls from the cheeseburger birds. 480

We got a move on at about 2:00 pm and we crossed paths again with a few other hikers weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d seen. None of them had seen Sleeping Beauty. Around 3:30 pm, in the peak time of day for snow melt, we arrived at Bear Creek. The ford of this creek has taken lives in the past. The current was noticeably fast, with whitecaps. We went downstream maybe 200 feet to a place that was a little less ugly, but not by much. I went across first. The water reached my thighs, but the real problem was the current. It was so fast that my trekking poles shook violently in the water. I made it across safely and watched as Ziploc carefully crossed without an issue. As we sat on a rock on the other side, I again worried about Sleeping Beauty.

We hiked another 5 miles or so, which involved several additional creek fords and one crazy creek that had a few tributaries and was covered in dead logs. Crossing it was a jungle gym exercise, moving from 481

one log to another until you eventually end up on the final log that has you walking across the fastest moving part of the creek about 12 feet above the water. All the while you’re walking on a slight uphill angle on a log that narrows as you get closer to the end. Let’s not forget that you are doing this with shoes that are only 40% dry at best. It took great concentration not to panic or fall off here.

Crossing on a LogAt camp, we had a cell signal for the first time in almost 100 miles and I was able to message Sleeping Beauty’s boyfriend back home. He sent me back a link to Kate’s InReach tracking which showed she was alive and was camped about a mile behind us. It was a relief to know she was ok, but still a mystery to know how she got behind us in the first place. I also got a message from HoosierDaddy from two days ago saying that he and Opera had to double back to town because Opera was having bad altitude sickness. Who knows at this point where any of my trail family is. Tomorrow, we hike .7 miles on the PCT and then 7.1 bonus miles on the Bear Ridge Trail to Vermilion Valley Resort for my first shower in a week, laundry, resupply, and a bit of rest. My legs are absolutely shredded from the snow, and a fall I took in a stream and they could use a zero day. My ankle is also begging for rest.

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And while all that sounds amazing, my main goal is FOOD. After I eat breakfast tomorrow, I will cover that eight-ish miles with two handfuls of honey-roasted almonds, one Kind Bar, and nine or ten Jelly Beans. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s because that is all I have left from the 24,000 calories I left the town of Independence with back on June 6th.

campsiteAfter writing this, I looked up into the clear moonless sky, since I pitched my tent tonight without a rain fly, and saw five shooting stars in three minutes. I love the PCT!

PCT - Day 55: 6/12/2018 - Found Kate, Leaving VVR Alone - 2018-06-14 14:33

Trail miles: .6 from 873.9 - 874.5 Miles walked: 9.1 (includes 7.2 bonus miles on the Bear Ridge Trail to VVR) 483

My day started with pissing off Ziploc yet again, because I had deviated from a plan we discussed the previous evening. I changed my mind and decided rather than leaving camp at 6:30 am and meeting up with Kate at VVR that, instead, I wanted to wait for Kate since we now knew for sure she was behind us. I hiked a half mile to the junction of the Bear Ridge Trail and plopped myself nearly in the trail as to not be missed. Kate arrived only 15 minutes after I sat down. I greeted her and my greeting was met with anger and hostility. I understand her anger of being separated on the trail. I had also been angry about it the previous day when I thought she was in front of us. She asked me to explain what happened, but after I got one sentence out, she hiked off quickly refusing to even listen to my side of the story. I had told her that initially after Ziploc had come up from behind me, we assumed Kate was still in front of us because neither of us had seen her. We waited ten minutes at the junction of the alternate crossing for Evolution Creek and when she didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t show up, we assumed she was ahead of us. It was at this point of the conversation that Kate just stormed off. What she didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get to hear all the things Ziploc and I did to try to figure out where Kate was.

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Bear Ridge TrailBut, I never even got an opportunity to tell her any of that. I just got the brunt of her anger, and in the process I also pissed off Ziploc for changing my plan this morning to wait for Kate. It was at this point, while hiking down Bear Ridge Trail by myself and getting eaten alive by mosquitoes that I decided that I just need to hike by myself going forward.

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ViewUpon my arrival at VVR around 10:00am, I immediately at an ice cream bar, drank a Firestone Easy Jack IPA, and chugged a Mountain Dew while doing laundry. My $7 shower was also worth every penny. I had missed breakfast, which was a shame since I rolled into VVR with one handful of almonds and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s it for food.

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Resupply backpack, body and sole I setup my tent and just laid there enjoying a reprieve from the incessant mosquito assault. At 12:00pm, I walked back up to the store to order my first of two lunches and get my resupply package. I expected to have WiFi at VVR to make a call or two and pay my daughter’s tuition bill which usually rolls in the middle of June. VVR has no WiFi though. Multiple times today I considered quitting the trail completely. I’m not even sure why, but honestly it’s probably just psychological. I’m just sort of a wreck mentally right now. Plus, my body has numerous problems; sprained right ankle, hurting left knee, and pain in my right elbow (the same one I broke in February). That and a few times in the past two weeks I have been pissing blood. That being said, I felt slightly better after being at VVR for a bit. In eight hours I drank five IPAs, a Mountain Dew, and a Pepsi. In that same period of time, I ate a bacon cheeseburger w/ fries, a side of chicken fingers, another side of fries, an ice cream bar, a half a bag of Cheetos, 12 double stuff Oreo cookies, and a plate of beef tacos with black beans & Spanish rice served with pineapple salsa. After hiking away from me earlier this morning, Kate came by my tent as I was doing tent repairs. She wanted to say goodbye since she was leaving on the afternoon ferry. I politely wished her well and we 487

shared a brief emotionless hug. She left and I suspect it’s the last I’ll see of her due to what is probably permanent damage to our friendship. Ziploc also tried chatting with me a couple times, but I just sort of ignored her, mostly because I was still pissed about the exchange we had this morning regarding changing plans. That and after I caught hostility from both Kate and Ziploc, I arrived at VVR to find them chatting away like old friends. Some things I’ll never understand.

VVR (Vermilion Valley Resort)Anyway, I’d already decided that I am continuing onward tomorrow by myself. I went and hid in my tent at 6:30pm and avoided everyone. I’m leaving VVR on the first ferry in the morning. I find the constant drama, coordination, and bull shit that comes from hiking with others to be a mental drain. For a while at least, I’ll stick to hiking and camping by myself assuming there are camp spots away from other hikers. I will get by with my music, star gazing, naps in the sun, and talking to my only real friend, myself. 488

It’s fitting that as I finish writing this, my music, which is on shuffle, started playing the song “Don’t make me go” from the punk rock band Off With Your Heads. For those of you too lazy to listen to a three minute song, the lyrics go like this: ~~ Please don’t make me go home I can’t handle the sight of that place again Please don’t make me go home I’m wanted there even less than I’m wanted here If I have to go home and say I’m sorry for things I’m not sorry for I’d rather keep on destroying myself for my own needs, than opening up that door Please don’t make me go Please don’t make me go home They blame everything on me even though it’s not my fault Please don’t make me go home I can’t handle seeing that place again I know they think I’m fucked up I know exactly where everybody stands Please don’t make me go home And face everything that made me who I am Please don’t make me go Please don’t make me go I’m not going home I’m not going home Please don’t make me go ~~ I used to listen to this song and think it was appropriate for how I never want to go back to where I grew up in Massachusetts. Now it has a second and wildly different meaning.

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PCT - Day 56: 6/13/2018 - Lakes, Loneliness, and Frogs - 2018-06-14 15:06

Trail miles: 12.7 from 878.7 - 891.4 Miles walked: 17.3 (yay bonus miles!)

Leaving VVR this morning was a mixed bag. I was itching to get out of there since itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a black hole where money goes to live. I ate four meals, bought a few things to supplement my resupply package, picked up a resupply package, drank five beers, bought a $7 shower, and paid $7 for laundry. After I bought a one way ferry ride back to the trail, my final tab was $169. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a little insane seeing as I spent less than 24 hours there.

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VRR - FerryAt breakfast, Ziploc approached me and asked if I was leaving on the morning ferry without her, and I told her I was. She understood that I was tired of the drama, but asked me to reconsider. I just coldly said I would still be leaving on that ferry and that we may see each other somewhere down the trail. We hugged and she was crying, and it was hard for me not to cry too, but I didn’t. I didn’t know it at the time, but my tears about this were just delayed, but I’ll get to that later. After the ferry dropped me off, I started hiking with some music playing in my earbuds. After an hour or so, I was back on the PCT climbing up Silver Pass, which I took slow just because I could. I was on nobody’s schedule but my own. By the time I reached Silver Lake, the music was annoying me, so I turned it off and just listened to the frogs.

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The climb up Silver Pass was long, but easier than I anticipated. I originally had some anxiety about some of the creek fords in this section, but the few I did today were all much easier than Bear Creek a couple days ago. When I reached the top of Silver Pass, I checked for a cell signal because I really wanted to talk to my Dad 1, but of course there was no signal. Instead I sat on a rock and just enjoyed the sun for a few minutes.

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The descent down Silver Pass was less shitty than expected considering it was 2:00 pm and the snow was soft already. I post-holed a handful of times which added to the growing lack of skin on my legs. Mostly I was able to talus hop and avoid the snow until I found the trail again. I then raced past Warrior Lake, Chief Lake, and Squaw Lake just to avoid getting devoured by mosquitoes or having to do small talk with a batch of JMT hikers at Squaw Lake.

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After reaching the junction with the Cascade Valley Trail, the PCT ascends steeply up to Lake Virginia. Hiking up 1300 feet in elevation over the next 1.5 miles was tough on the legs, considering I’d already climbed 3300 feet during my climb of Silver Pass. I arrived at Lake Virginia at 5:00 pm, which is the earliest I’ve stopped and setup camp in a long time. I relaxed in between doing chores of filtering water, cooking dinner, and washing my socks. The socks were already filthy since earlier I landed in some mud up to my calf on both legs.

Second thoughts about how I was so cold to Ziploc came at camp that night. Ziploc’s passion for having a plan and sticking to it is something I understand even if I don’t always agree with it. That being said, she’s a good person and I treated her like crap just because I was frustrated with the drama surrounding daily plans. Before we hiked Mt Whitney, I promised her I would not abandon her in the Sierra since she didn’t have much mountaineering experience. And now I’ve done just that, I’ve abandoned her and I not only feel guilty for doing that, I also miss her company. As I sat above Lake Virginia after dinner, watching the sunset and snacking on Oreos, it all hit me. I had such a great campsite with a beautiful view over the lake, yet I had no one to share it with. I laid in the dirt with my head on a dead log and wept about the fact that I was lonely. The tears were worse when I realized I only had myself to blame for this feeling. 496

I again had racing thoughts that were all over the place. I thought of just waiting for Ziploc to catch up so I could apologize. I thought about waking up really early and trying to hike so hard and long that I would collapse from exhaustion and have no time for my thoughts to swirl. I again thought of leaving the trail, but for what; I had the same empty feeling awaiting me at home. I thought of putting a bullet in my head to just have peace and to end the racing thoughts. I never have been able to escape my head. I have hiked almost 900 miles on the PCT, and Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m just as fucked up as when I started. The only difference is VVR has $169 of mine now. At least I can listen to the cacophony of frogs tonight as I try to sleep.

(before watching thevideo below, turn on your sound and listen)

1. Your dad wanted to talk to you too.

Fred Wilbur (2018-06-14 15:19:19) In my research on the PCT and thru-hiking, I came across someone giving advice to hikers. It went something like this: "Never quite on a bad day." Sounds like good advice to me.

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PCT - Day 57: 6/14/2018 - Crushing Miles - 2018-06-15 05:59

Trail miles: 24.6 from 891.4 - 916.0 Miles: 25.8

I put on a clean, dry pair of socks this morning. My feet were 100% dry... for about three minutes. I had the option of fording a lake inlet or rock hopping. I chose the latter. The rocks were spaced such that maybe a NBA player could have hopped these with ease, but I’m 5’ 7” 1. I slipped off a rock and ended up thigh high in the lake. So much for my dry feet. I smirked, because what a better way to start a long day of hiking than falling into a lake.

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Mile 900 was on the radar this morning, and I hiked with a purpose, which is still slower than most people. I hiked by Purple Lake, which is so poorly named. I was then on a trail that meandered through the trees for much of the rest of the day.

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All morning I was considering quitting the PCT because it’s really hard on me mentally. When I saw the rocks spelling “900” laid out on the side of the trail, I thought of my daughter.

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Clipped to my pack for every adventure I have been on since my daughter was age two is a plastic bracelet that she made for me. It’s faded now, but it has beads that read “Delaney ❤ Dad”. This bracelet has now made it over 900 miles on the PCT. This bracelet was also with me for the entire Colorado Trail. It was on my pack last year for the hike I did with my Dad of the WRT. It has been on my pack for hundreds of hikes and climbs of 14ers & 13ers in Colorado. It’s been there through post-holing, falls off logs into creeks, 60 mph freezing winds on Mt Lady Washington, a glissade of the Refrigerator Couloir, bushwhacking a 26 mile day across the Gore range, a fall down a few ledges in the Red Gully on Crestone Peak, so many gnarly ridge traverses, and many other crazy times. One might think a plastic bracelet clipped to the outside of a pack wouldn’t last this long. But it’s still there, and as long as it’s still there, I’ll still be hiking the PCT.

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Butterflies have been circling me off and on for three days now. Big yellow Monarch butterflies. My friends this morning were these butterflies and of course the Chesse-Burg-Er birds that I like to whistle at.

I realized today that my next resupply is at Tuolumne Meadows Post Office, which is closed Sunday which was the day I thought Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be arriving. This forced a change of plans. I would hike my ass off today and Friday just to make it to the post office before it closes at 1:00 pm on Saturday.

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After about nine miles, I was sitting on the side of the trail eating lunch and using a cell signal for the first time in a long time when, to my surprise, Ziploc came hiking down the trail. I used this opportunity to apologize, but it sort of fell on deaf ears, because Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d been an asshole. I guess sometimes bridges that are burned remain burnt. I ultimately packed up, said goodbye, and hiked for another fifteen miles. I only stopped briefly to get water or take sand out of my shoes.

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I hiked through a burn area just before the junction to Redâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Meadow Resort. I hiked right past the junction with no interest in having a shower or a burger. I just wanted to crush miles today. I started making a mental bucket list of places I want to see before I die. One of the places not on that list is Minaret Falls, but damn for waterfall lovers, this is a must see. Pictures donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t do it justice.

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Minaret Falls For several miles I was surrounded by thick forest, only briefly broken by a small meadow or pond. I also hiked through the Devils Postpile National Monument, which was sort of a letdown. After entering the Ansel Adams Wilderness, aspens and thick pines grew together like long lost friends.

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I hiked to a solo campsite and watched the sunset while eating Ramen Noodles, Pecans, Cheese & Crackers, and the rest of the Oreos.

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I tried to imagine what it is I’m hoping to get out of hiking the PCT. I still have no idea why I’m out here. 1. - editor's note: You are NOT 5' 7". I didn't know if you made a typo or were trying to be like a NBA player and lie about your height.

Adam Wilbur (2018-06-15 07:06:37) I am 5’ 7”. I just appear bigger because of my bad attitude. ;)

Fred Wilbur (2018-06-15 09:20:11) Your attitude may be over 7 feet, but your height is the same as mine (withing 1/2"). I just measured my height and I'm 67 3/8" ... wait! That's 5' 7 3/8"! When did I get so short? I use to be 5' 10". My 508

medical records say I'm 5' 8" now. If I'm now 5' 7", then my BMI is higher than I thought. That means I am more than just overweight ... That's not good! Can I join you for the next 100 miles? I need to loose some weight!

LaVada Taylor (2018-06-15 10:18:41) Remember, no matter where you go, there you are. It sounds like you are in a deep struggle of understanding who you are and how that affects those around you. You will never be able to fully understand how other people see you, but also remember we are harder on ourselves than others. Before you can truly forgive others, you have to start with forgiving yourself. We all have our stuff, the stuff that gets in our heads and makes us feel isolated, angry at ourselves for what we should have done/been and sometimes what we do/say to other people can be repaired, and sometimes it cannot, and sometimes it takes time. I know that you feel intensely and that you also display your feelings in an intense way. You're a great poker player, use some of those skills when you're feeling intense feelings around others. It's not being false, it's learning to filter so that others are not taken aback by your intensity. My wish for you is to learn how to be comfortable in your own skin/head/fill in whatever word. Try approaching everyone with good intent, meaning that whatever someone says to you they are saying it out of good intent. It keeps you from getting your hackles up, and makes you more open to the words that are being said with less emotion. Also remember that shear exhaustion will make you and everyone you're around more emotional so stepping back from the emotion can help you deal with everything better.

PCT - Day 58: 6/15/2018 - Donohue Pass, Ziplock and Sleeping Beauty 2018-06-20 13:34

Trail miles: 17.6 from 916.0 - 933.6 Miles walked: 19.3 509

Last night, I decided to stop blogging. I switched my blog to “private”; and for a few hours yesterday it was so. I did this because my writing it’s unfiltered. It’s often an all too clear view into my thoughts, my weaknesses, and my fears. I worried that I would be judged by family, friends, or coworkers that may read it. But... Then I got a message from a guy I’ve never met named Kevin. Oddly enough, I got this message on Facebook Messenger while writing in my tent last night. I’m paraphrasing, but his message basically asked “Hey what happened to the blog? I really enjoyed reading it.” I didn’t realize that more that just a few friends and family were reading this, so I looked at the stats and saw that I am getting several hundred hits a day. I was surprised at the stats and touched by the message. I decided that the worst thing that may come from people reading the musings of a guy hiking the PCT with bipolar disorder is that people may judge me for being real. If that’s the case, so be it. My “real” may not be your “real”, but that’s why the world works. We all have different fears, perspectives, and experiences. Those lead to different decisions and different emotions. These are just my points of view, and my emotions. Anyway, thanks Kevin, and thanks to all the others out there reading and scrutinizing my waning sanity as I proceed northward on the Pacific Crest Trail. —

I began my day after a poor night of sleep that was plagued with muscle cramps and sliding into the bottom of my tent repeatedly, thanks to a not so flat campsite.

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The morning views across the valley were beautiful. I could see and hear a waterfall coming out of Shadow Lake. I pressed on in solo hiking mode until I was caught doing my Jon Bon Jovi vocals impersonation by a southbound JMT hiker. She smiled and said “Hi” as I immediately ceased my singing of “Wanted dead or alive”.

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I was trying to hike quickly in the morning since I had to go over Island Pass and Donohue Pass today. I hiked up to Thousand Island Lake half expecting a lake filled with salad dressing. Instead, I found an aptly named spectacular lake. Little islands dotted the surface.

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Thousand Island Lake I hurried up Island Pass which was mostly snow free or at least snow-avoidable. On the ascent, I reaggregated my ailing right ankle. It was not as bad as the day on Muir Pass, but close. After the anticlimactic top of Island Pass, I hobbled down a mile or so very slowly. I crossed a creek at the bottom of the descent, walked a couple hundred yards more to a sunny spot where I was hoping to avoid mosquitoes. I then sat down for a break. After two minutes, I had not yet been swarmed, so I decided to eat an early lunch there. Forty five minutes later as I was wrapping up a long lunch, I heard a hiker approaching. It was Ziploc AND Sleeping Beauty!

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Sleeping BeautyI was not really surprised to see Ziploc since I knew she was behind me, but I was very surprised to see Sleeping Beauty. Back around Thousand Island Lake the JMT and PCT rejoined after being separated for approximately 14 miles. As fate would have it, Sleeping Beauty and Ziploc crossed paths ten minutes before seeing me. Now here we all were once again. I invited them to sit with me and eat lunch. We did, and things weren’t even weird. I thought we all felt that it was sort of odd that we met randomly again considering we’d all left VVR a few days ago at three separate times. We had also all camped separately last night. We shared lunch with smiles and shared some stories from our solo days. After lunch, we continued towards Donohue Pass, or so we thought. After descending more than I thought, I took a look at the map and discovered we were about .75 miles off trail on a different trail. We doubled back and found an obscure sign we’d missed earlier at a creek crossing, but after 1.5 bonus miles, we were back on the PCT again.

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At 12:30 pm we began the climb up Donohue Pass where we leapfrogged with an older guy named Spook. The “trail”, if you could even call it that, was like an obstacle course where the challenge was to keep your feet dry. We must’ve crossed over a hundred streams or creeks in about four miles. When it wasn’t water, it was mud. Either way, we eventually clicked of a mile at a time, and found ourselves on the top of a very windy pass. I had achieved 100% dry feet, but my hiking mates not so much. I found a small spot shielded from the worst part of the wind and decided to sunbathe a bit while Sleeping Beauty tended to a blister on her foot. Ziploc joined me with her ninja look on full display.

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Sunbathing Circus Act and Ninja Ziplock The hike down Donohue Pass was our entrance into Yosemite National Park. The descent was also easier than I thought itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be. We mostly avoided snow and soon were standing at a surreal place named Lyell Fork. The water was crystal clear and glimmered in the sunlight.

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We stopped for pictures but eventually began a long slog down a steep and challenging trail. We sarcastically wondering aloud if the trail builders were just doing weird shit with rocks just to fuck with us hikers.

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After fording the Lyell Fork and having my foot dryness immediately drop from 100% dry to 0%, the terrain opened up and exposed a gorgeous meadow.

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We camped in the forest at the meadow’s edge and had a “we have too much food and we are resupplying tomorrow” feast. It was great to share a day with my friends again. Sleeping Beauty will be done her JMT hike and heading home on Sunday. As for Ziploc, she’s on a tight schedule and needs to crush miles to get to Canada by mid-September. I don’t know if we’ll continue hiking together or not. I’m just happy for this one day with my two friends.

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A funny sidebar conversation that came up today. While we were descending Donohue Pass, Sleeping Beauty told the story from history of people who resorted to cannibalism on similarly named Donner Pass way back in the day after getting trapped in a fierce snowstorm. This then led to us talking about the book “Alive”. Then jokingly, I mentioned that both Ziploc and Sleeping Beauty could probably survive for a week on one of my thighs. Ziploc then said “Your thigh would be too lean. I’d eat your ass since it’d have a better mixture of meat and fat for better flavor. But, I’d trim off your ass chafe first.” This received roaring laughter from both Sleeping Beauty and myself. I was laughing so hard that it stopped me in my tracks. It’s moments like this I really missed when rocking out my solo days.

Jan Monster (2018-06-20 15:51:50) Thank you for resuming your blog. I have read each and every of your PCT blogs so far and very much enjoyed them. Your blog is different from the rest and that is what makes it so worthwhile to read. I appreciate your honesty. Please keep the blog going.

Anonymous (2018-06-20 16:46:58) I never comment on these blogs but I follow quite a few of them, I am going to comment on this one because I want you to know that I hope you keep going with the blogs because I enjoy reading them 521

and following along on your journey. I don't know you and have really have no idea what it's like having Bipolar but from what I have read I think that you are too hard on yourself and you worry too much what others think of you, Maybe I am wrong... Anyway you seem like a cool guy from what I have read so far and i'd hike with you any day! Just remember your worst day on trail is better than my best day here in my office wishing I was in the woods! Keep your head up and crush those miles! I am rooting for you to make it to Canada! Good Luck!

Anonymous (2018-06-20 17:05:24) I thought you were just between wifi signals! I don't know how you have the energy for it, but I'm glad you're going to keep blogging; I'm all geared up for the PCT next year and am really enjoying your blog (pretty sure the PCT can't be amazing all the time; I think your ups and downs are fascinating to read). Looking at your progress on the map has got to feel good; awesome job so far!

Todd (2018-06-20 19:04:37) Hey Circus Act - my wife and I (Todd & Donna) hiked in or around your bubble from the border to BBC and left the trail because of an injury to my wifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s knee - we talked to you on several occasions and know or met Ziplock, Peanut Butter, Tapeworm, Opera, Chilly Bin, Hoosierdaddy, GQ, Missfit, Mark & Tammy, Harry & Fran and others that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m sure you have met also. Just wanted to let you know that we follow your blog closely and really enjoy hearing about your journey. Keep it up!!! We are rooting for you to make it to the Northern Terminus. Say hi to Ziplock. We wish we were out there with you guys but following your blog is the next best thing. Todd

Anonymous (2018-06-21 01:16:32) I also want to encourage you! My brother is hiking as well and I read as many blogs as I can, but yours is the one that I enjoy most, open and honest, it's not just the miles but also the feelings that come with them - and every now and then I laugh out loud because I enjoy your sense of humour! I hope I can follow your journey all the way no matter how far it takes you!

Adam Wilbur (2018-06-21 08:02:44) The comments here are so encouraging. Every single one of these means a lot to me. Thank you all so much! ~ Circus Act 522

PCT - Day 59: 6/16/2018 - Broken Tent, Resupply, and Delaney Creek 2018-06-20 16:46

Trail miles: 17.9 from 933.6 - 951.5 Miles walked: 18.8

The zipper on the mesh part of my tent had been giving me some trouble for a couple weeks. After getting up to go to the bathroom at 4:45 am, it failed completely. This is always nice when you are deep in mosquito country. Since thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no cell service out here, I asked Sleeping Beauty to help me by contacting my wife when she finishes the JMT on Sunday. Hopefully I can get a new tent soon.

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In the morning we left camp at 6:30 am and hiked nine miles to the Tuolumne Meadows Post Office which is on a main road in Yosemite National Park. The morning was frigid and we hiked quickly past grazing deer and a beautiful meadow. The trail was quite muddy and in one particular section I attempted to jump a mud puddle and slipped on the landing. I ended flat on my back in the mud, sort of like the character Vinny in the movie My Cousin Vinny.

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Tuolumme Meadows Post Office (and Grill?)We arrived there around 10 am and went into hiker trash mode rather swiftly. Within minutes we had pack explosions on picnic tables. I was sorting out resupply items while I ate a breakfast sandwich, a cinnamon roll, a side of bacon, an ice cream bar, and a bag of Chili Cheese Fritos. I was also alternating between drinking Pepsi and beer.

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Nothing like Chili Cheese Frito's and Beer

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Hiker Trash ModeThere must have been 20 thru hikers just loitering out front of this place that was a Post Office, Grille, and General Store all in one. The only downside of this place, other than the nonstop flow of tourists, is there are no showers or laundry facilities here. Ziploc didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t let this stop her from washing her socks, underwear, and shirt in the bathroom sink, and then lay it on a rock in the sun to dry. I was too lazy to do that so guess Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m going to have to go four more days without clean clothes or a shower.

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Drying Panties and Socks We chilled in the sun by the road looking like homeless people. After a few hours, we finally extracted ourselves from society again. We hiked a half mile or so together until we got to the JMT/PCT split. We hugged Sleeping Beauty, said goodbye and wished her the best on her last day on the JMT. I then watched as my friend hiked away. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m really going to miss her. She has been my best friend over the past two years, and I hope our argument from a few days ago doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t kill that.

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Sleeping Beatuy on JMT Ziploc and I still had over 1700 miles left in our journey, so we decided to keep moving. We hiked for about another half a mile and while walking on perfectly flat ground, I again sprained my right ankle. It’s about the hundredth time I’ve done this so it’s not new for me to hike along slowly in significant pain for hours or sometimes a couple days. Let me clarify, it may not be new, but it still hurts and it still sucks. Ziploc hiked on ahead while I crutched along with my trekking poles grimacing in pain with each step. I took a couple Ibuprofen and a pain killer and within forty minutes, I was moving at an acceptable pace again. I hobbled down a rocky trail towards a intense sounding waterfall. It was the Tuolumne Falls and they did not disappoint. It was spectacular! Little rainbows appeared in the misty spray in the breeze. I found Ziploc waiting for me there too.

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Tuolumne FallsAfter the falls, I stopped at a smaller waterfall and rinsed my gross smelling shirt. We then plodded along for a few more miles gaining elevation and losing light as the forest thickened around us.

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We setup camp and as fate would have it, I broke a tent pole while setting up my already broken tent. Ziploc helped me repair it enough that I could get it to work, but now my need for a new tent is even higher.

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Ziploc and I decided tonight while eating dinner that we would not take a zero day until we get to South Lake Tahoe in about 140 more miles. Assuming my body doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t come apart at the seams like my tent is doing, this would mean we will have hiked the entire Sierra section of the PCT without a zero day. Some say thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crazy. I might be one of them saying that too, but at this point it sort of makes sense to just go for it.

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(editor comment: This photo was in the set of pictures Adam set, without any description about it. However, it is a creek named after a special person. I put in here to let he know she has a creek named after her.)

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ColoradoGirl84 (2018-06-20 19:26:26) Nope, it didn't kill anything. Arguments can happen in intense situations and when people are (literally) starving. I might have been more than I little hangry that morning...but we've had too many awesome adventures for one argument to affect things so much. I miss you and Ziploc both, and am so glad I get to continue to follow your adventure through your blog! Also, I'll work on the Oregon pizza bear for you ;)

Fred Wilbur (2018-06-20 20:25:24) Is this Kate, or Sleeping Beauty as know on the JMT/PCT?

PCT - Day 60: 6/17/2018 - Accept, Adapt, Appreciate - 2018-06-20 17:27

Trail miles: 19.1 from 951.5 - 970.6 Miles walked: 21.4

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It’s a bit of a bummer that on Fathers Day, I didn’t have a cell signal. I would have loved to talk to my Dad and hopefully hear from my daughter. But, I’m currently at the mercy of the trail. Happy Fathers Day Dad! I love you! The morning was really cold. Frost covered my tent and the entire meadow we had camped near.

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Frosty morning

Since we’re in Yosemite National Park, I assumed there wouldn’t be too many creeks to ford. I guess I was thinking that the NPS would’ve put bridges in place or something. I was wrong, I probably forded five or six creeks today. The most adventurous one being Return Creek which was about thigh high with a decent current behind it. Ziploc had hiked ahead of me since I was still moving at a slightly slower pace due to my ankle problem. While I was walking right after the ford of Spiller Creek, I nearly had a heart attack when a deer jumped across the trail about three feet in front of my face. He then stopped on the other side and looked back at me like I was the one who startled him.

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Around 9:30 am, I caught up with Ziploc since she was sitting on a dead log drying her tent. She wasn’t in a good mood. She was getting frustrated with the nonstop challenges the Sierra throws at us; steep ascents/descents, trails that are rocky, muddy, or snowy, and constant creek and stream crossings that keep one’s feet wet most of the day. I tried to encourage her and repeated a mantra that I’ve been trying to remember myself. Accept. Adapt. Appreciate.1

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I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t take credit for that, I read it in some other hiking related blog, but I love it and think itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a great attitude to have towards the outdoors in general.

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To add to Ziplocâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s misery, a couple hours later, I caught up again to find her trying to extract a large piece of metal from her shoe. She had stepped on this sharp rusty object and was lucky it didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t puncture her foot in addition to her shoe. I was chuckling on the inside as I removed the thing from her shoe.

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Nail in shoe About an hour later, I walked up to a creek to ford on our way up Benson Pass. I reluctantly dropped my pack and switched from my dry trail runners to my Crocs to ford this creek. That’s when I saw Ziploc bashing around off trail but still on the same side of the creek. I asked her what she was doing and she replied “Building a bridge”. I laughed as I walked across the creek, getting wet only up to my knee. She then threw a log into the creek in attempt to build a “bridge” or at least a way to step across with dry feet. The log just floated down stream. I couldn’t contain my laughter anymore. Seeing that log she threw just float away was too 540

much. I roared with laughter as she was being a good sport about it even if she was pouting a bit. She finally reluctantly took her shoes off to cross.

On the way up the pass I was crawling. Fatigue was getting the best of me. The views from this pass only really got good when descending the north side. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s where I passed Smedberg Lake which I thought about camping at but ultimately decided to push a couple more miles to lose a little elevation. Mostly, I was hoping I would be warmer down a few hundred feet.

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Ziploc wanted to do a 22+ mile day, and I simply didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to or need to. My ankle needs rest and I am carrying plenty of food to where I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need to hurry through this beautiful area.

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She kept going when I stopped to camp near a waterfall. I was surrounded on three sides by huge granite walls.

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I am always amazed that somehow trees can grow from tiny ledges on these stone walls.

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I treated myself to my first PCT campfire as a way of celebrating day sixty and Fathers Day.

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I am camped alone. I had time after my 2000 calorie dinner to just think about home. I miss my wife. I miss my daughter and my step-son. I miss my dogs. I wonder if my youngest dog will even remember me when I get home.

1. For more information on the source of the three A's see: https://www.thehikinglife.com/2018/06/thethree-as-2/

Fred Wilbur (2018-06-20 20:15:37) I would have loved to talk to you on Father's day. I was somewhat bummed out. I did do a small warm up hike - just 3.5 miles with my ex boss. It was the first time I have hiked since I hurt my back back in 546

April. I was thinking of you. Today (Jun 20), I was working in a cell phone dead area when you called and I was really bummed about that too. We will make contact. I need some advice on my upcoming long distant hike. I noticed a number of comments from people who follow your blog. They,and I, are very pleased you continued it. It is a unique, open, perspective on the good, bad, and ugly on the trail. Miss you and wish your ankle holds up.

PCT - Day 61: 6/18/2018 - Yet another ankle sprain - 2018-06-20 17:56

Trail miles: 18.9 from 970.6 - 989.5 Miles walked: 19.6

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Getting out of my sleeping bag was a real challenge. I have been sleeping relatively well lately. I guess when your last zero day was twenty days ago, the body takes whatever rest it can get. I finally started hiking at my latest starting time yet, 7:15 am.

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The day started with a steep descent on a rocky trail. When I arrived at a sign for Benson Lake, I just continued figuring the PCT goes by this lake. I was in a thick forest and the trail was lined with tall wet grass. “Car wash grass” we used to call this on the Colorado Trail. While walking I noticed the muddy trail didn’t have familiar footprints that I’m accustomed to seeing. After a quick check of Guthook, I realized I went wrong at the sign. That’s OK, it’s nice to start the day with some bonus miles.

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I was also slowed by several creek crossings. Some required good balance on logs, rocks, beaver dams, or some combination of all these. Other creeks required me to change shoes. I found that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m a happier guy with dry feet, so Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve been opting to swap into my Crocs when fording creeks.

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I began a 1500 foot climb up Seavy Pass. I was stopping often just to admire the scenic lakes, rock formations, and views across the valley.

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There were only a couple patches of snow, which made me happy. I surprised a couple deer right next to the trail, but they knew I was not a threat and after saying hello to me with a stare, they went back to munching on bushes.

At the top of Seavy Pass, it was 10:45 am, and I had only covered five miles thus far. I still had two more steep climbs and a couple of tricky fords to do. Kerrick Creek was the first of the tricky fords. I arrived at this creek about 12:15 pm and oddly enough I had not yet seen another northbound hiker yet. I crossed by myself in a quick current, with water levels reaching my upper thigh. The current was strong, but slower than Bear Creek where it had been about the same water level.

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100% Wet After the ford, I stopped for a lunch break. In the sun, I laid out my tent, sleeping bag, underwear, and socks which were recently laundered in Kerrick Creek. I sat and ate and didn’t really think about much. I just listened to birds and tried to make ants recognize that my legs are officially a “no ant zone”. After eating as much as possible from my bear can, I packed up everything and began my second climb of the day which was steep but only gained 800 feet or so. I flew up this trail powered by a bunch of calories from lunch. 553

Before I knew it, I was back down the other side and fording a creek in Stubblefield Canyon. The most recent reports had said this was a chest deep ford. I crossed at 3:00 pm and it was only knee high. A few hours of anxiety for nothing. My third climb gained another 1400 feet or so. This part of my day is where Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve seen the most wildflowers thus far. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nothing compared to the endless wildflowers on the CT, but it was a nice change.

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Right near the top of this climb, I sprained my piece of shit right ankle AGAIN. I also fell this time and landed on my hands and knees. It’s a good thing I had seen so few people today, because I yelled something like “Fucking Fucking Fuck! Fuck! Fucking Fucking Fuck!!!”

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I was back in limp and hobble mode. And this time the pain seemed worse that previous times. The trail then dropped my gimpy ass into pond and lake hell. I mean, this place is probably awesome in other circumstances, but not today.

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Wilma (aka Wilmer) Lake, the nearby ponds and the surrounding area were overflowing and water encroached the trail and completely covered it in a few places. The water however was avoidable. What wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t avoidable were the hoards of mosquitoes. The best defense against mosquitoes is to not stop and hike fast. I was walking slowly and gently to avoid more pain in my ankle. Therefore I got eaten alive. I had basically bathed in deet and that helped slightly, but then Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d ford a creek and my legs were again fresh meat. I hopped on one leg and crutched along with my trekking poles for a bit because my ankle was so sore. When I stopped to get water from a stream, the mosquito hoard engulfed me. I hobbled in a circle to keep them at bay while I whipped up an Aqua Mira concoction to treat my water. I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t intend to camp where I did, but my ankle was failing to move anymore. After setting up my tent and cooking dinner, I could barely walk from where I ate back to my tent.

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CampsiteI hope my ankle is better tomorrow as I have my sights set on mile 1000. Mile 1000!!!

Dotty (2018-06-20 19:17:49) So glad your blogs are back! I've been checking every couple hours for the past few days. Mile 1000 coming up---WOW!

PCT - Day 62: 6/19/2018 - From Hell to Heavenly - 2018-06-20 18:24

Trail miles: 20.7 from 989.5 - 1010.2 Miles walked: 23.1

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My ankle hurt so bad this morning. Because of that, I was sitting in my sleeping bag at 5:30 am with a question repeating itself in my mind. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Is this the end of the PCT for me?â&#x20AC;?

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I could barely hobble out of my tent to take a piss. My ankle was swollen and in a lot of pain. I again cursed the day from February 2013 where the original horrific ankle injury occurred. To start the day, I was 27 miles from Sonora Pass and Kennedy Meadows North. There wasn’t even reliable cell service there. I was 100 miles away from South Lake Tahoe, which is the first place I might be able to get medical attention. I decided I had only one choice. Hike. So, I got ready. I put on my repugnant shirt that had only been rinsed in a river once in the last eight days. I packed up my stuff as quickly as I could to minimize my exposure to mosquito hell. I limped for the first mile and using my poles for crutches I covered that mile in 45 minutes. My second mile took 35 minutes. My ankle was loosening up a bit, but the pain was still very real. This was the worst morning I’d had thus far on the PCT. My ankle was excruciating. Much of the trail was muddy or filled with puddles of muddy water.

Mosquito Heaven Hoards of mosquitoes engulfed me every time I stopped to do anything. I was hiking with my buff pulled up to cover my ears and mouth. I had headphones in with music playing so I couldn’t hear these evil 561

fuckers. I was wearing hat, sunglasses, and mosquito head net. I was also wearing my rain jacket to prevent mosquitoes from biting through my shirt. My legs were drenched in deet. While treating water the cloud of mosquitoes around my head was so thick that it obscured vision. I limped along, sweating in my rain jacket, sinking up to my ankles in mud, wishing I was anywhere but in this meadow. A buck stopped what he was doing to laugh at my attire. Never seen a laughing deer? Just dress like I was and walk around Yosemite for a while.

Laughing BuckEventually I started gaining elevation and made my way to beautiful Dorothy Lake. I stopped here long enough to rinse my socks and my shirt in this pristine lake. The views of the water with snow behind it was breathtaking.

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I continued up and over Dorothy Lake Pass which was also my exit from Yosemite National Park. I 563

stopped a half a mile shy of the mile 1000 mark to eat lunch in a rare spot with only a few mosquitoes.

At lunch I wondered what I’d do with my summer if my ankle didn’t get better. Maybe I’d go play a couple of events in the World Series of Poker. Maybe I’d ride my motorcycle somewhere awesome. I also wondered about my trail family that is no longer together. How’s Chilly Bin doing? Where are Tapeworm and Opera? How’s HoosierDaddy doing after seeing the doctor? How far ahead is Ziploc? How’s Sleeping Beauty enjoying her first day back at work after the JMT? What’s up with Peanut Butter, Ranger, Gandalf, Whiplash, and so many others I’d met over the last thousand miles?

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I had no answers. I ate my lunch in the same manner as I hiked and camped for the last three days, by myself. Mile 1000 was a letdown. I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feel like dancing, and I was in too much pain to even think about it. I crossed mile 1000 the same way I started the PCT at mile 0, by myself.

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Hiking the rest of the day was a grind. I counted the miles remaining till Sonora Pass. I am in desperate need of a shower, laundry, and time off my feet.

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Briefly during my climb I forgot about my pain and my loneliness. I even forgot about the mosquitoes for a while as the views of the mountains grew with each step up in elevation. I stopped to camp at one of the highest camp spots on the route at nearly 10,600â&#x20AC;&#x2122;.

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I ate in silence and tried to use a spotty LTE connection that seemed to disappear any time I tried to do something. Instead, I sat and watched the sun setting in the west and the alpenglow to the east.

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It was my favorite moment of my entire PCT hike. A day that started with hell finished with heavenly views.

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Fred Wilbur (2018-06-20 20:22:50) Those sunsets don't get much better than that! BTW, you are not alone on the trail. Based on comments and the blog stats, you have a few hundred people following you regularly. Some of us feel your pain and get our sunset kicks from your blog. There have been over 200 hits in the last few hours since I posted days 58 to 62.

Anonymous (2018-06-20 22:08:57) Thanks for continuing your blog. It is a great PCT experience but more than that, it is really giving me insight into the sensitivities of a person with bipolar. Having loved ones who are bipolar and never having understood as much of their thought process until reading your thoughts, it is really important to

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me. And helps me understand the really good person under the different moods. Many people would be unable to be so truthful. Thank you.

Adam Wilbur (2018-06-20 22:52:53) Thank you, this comment melted my heart tonight.

PCT - Day 63: 6/20/2018 - Kennedy Meadows North, new friends, best friends - 2018-06-21 09:28

Trail miles: 6.7 from 1010.2 - 1016.9 Miles walked: 7.7 I woke up at 5:15 am to catch a sunrise and then promptly went back to sleep for two hours. I finally started hiking at nearly 8:00 am.

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Morning Light My hike was fun, with a mixture of snow, rock, and mud. The trail had good views looking back at the Sierra. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bittersweet to think Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m done with the Sierra Nevada, but not even halfway through my hike yet.

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SierraI walked by myself singing along to music and did short standing glissades on the snow where the lack of sun-cupping made it possible. Parts of the trail were covered in snow so I just opted for a direct line down a snow gully. I really wanted to get to town. Mostly I was looking forward to my first shower in nine days.

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Glissade = yes

Gllissade= no

Glissade - 100% wet 576

"Stanislaus" is German meaning = "glissade at your own risk"

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G- li-ss-ad-e = bumpy on snow cupsWhen I arrived at highway 108 /Sonora Pass, I was joined by another hiker named Scuzi that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d seen off an on for a couple days.

She and I hitchhiked together and after almost an hour we finally got a ride into Kennedy Meadows North. Mark picked us up with a van full of kids. He was an absolute sweetheart and even drove us a mile down a side road which was out of his way, just to bring us to the front door. He also gave us a Coke and a fresh baked brownie on our drive! When we pulled up, I saw Ziploc walking out. She stopped to say Hi/Bye but then continued on her 578

mission. Kennedy Meadows North is way better that the similarly named shithole to the south. There are a pile of dogs roaming around and horses everywhere. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a place my wife would like a lot I believe. I showered, did laundry, picked up my resupply which had a touching message from my wife (and a box of Girl Scout cookies). I also picked up my new tent and shipped home my bear can, micro spikes, and a fleece.

Kennedy Meadows North

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KMN dog Scuzi introduced me to her friends Bagels and Townie. We hung out at the saloon together and had a few drinks.

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Scuzi, Bagels, and Townie (guess who is who) We then moved our party of four to the restaurant and the fun continued with two bottles of wine with dinner. Bagels is from Seattle and oddly enough even knows the company I work for. Scuzi is from South Africa. Townie is from Winnipeg, Canada. Bagels told us a hilarious story which had the rest of us in tears from laugh. The story involved him resupplying in Lone Pine with sixteen Snickers Bars among a few other things. He also shared some information with me about the guy with the garden hose which was learned during a drunken night at Casa De Luna. Apparently that guy’s trail name is “15 Foot” and he talks telepathically to his garden hose (which is a female BTW). Somehow there’s also a connection between the hose and 15 Foot’s obsession with finding Bigfoot. Seriously, I can’t make shit up like this: non-fiction is the best.

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Stories over wine and dinnerOur conversation also touched on real but less humorous topics, like how the trail restores faith in humanity. The trail changes oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perspective and creates almost a sense of patriotism due to the unbridled kindness we see continually from complete strangers. People that just want to help us and get nothing in return. The hearts of people like Mark, or the ones that comment on this blog to give me motivation when I need it most are the most amazing part of the PCT! All of these people are participating in our somewhat selfish goals of getting from Mexico to Canada. With the kindness of others we might just make it, with or without a 15 foot section of garden hose.

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Human's best friend - listening to trail storiesIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m getting back on trail tomorrow. My first zero day in nearly 400 miles awaits me in South Lake Tahoe, assuming my ankle doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fall off in the next 74 miles.

ColoradoGirl84 (2018-06-22 12:17:34) Ah, the guy with the garden hose! That's hilarious! You'll have to keep giving updates if you see him again, he's an odd bird...

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PCT - Day 64: 6/21/2018 - Zombie hiking, random thoughts, and Ant Power - 2018-06-22 13:27

Trail miles: 19.3 from 1016.9 - 1036.2 Miles walked: 20.5

Yes today was the international “hike naked” day. I didn’t see anyone participating unfortunately. $35 at Kennedy Meadows North gets a shower, laundry, and a bed in a dorm. After drinking a lot of beer and wine I barely even woke up at 2:00 am when the generator turned on for some unknown reason. When it did, our room was lit up with bright light. I slept through that, but woke up at 4:45 am for no reason and never really got back to sleep. We ate breakfast and Dan, the bartender from the saloon, gave us a ride to the trailhead. It took me a while to get into hiking mode. I felt like just taking a nap for much of the day. I hiked by myself all day and barely talked to anyone for longer than a minute or so. I really miss my trail family from the pre-Sierra days. It was nice to have lunch with people on occasion. Now I’m often finding myself in zombie hiking mode listening to music. 584

The day started with a climb up over 10,500 feet. The views along this part of todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hike were great but not as picturesque as the Sierra.

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I would have given up these views to not have to deal with more snow. On the north side, when I started descending, the trail was difficult to locate in all the snow. This made for some slow going, postholing, and route finding until I finally found a trail again.

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I had started on the trail shortly after 8:30 am. By noon Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d only covered about 7 miles. I sat down and ate lunch by a creek and spent half my lunch break swatting flies. I was intrigued at the power of one ant, when it began dragging away a dead fly body.

Another random thought I had at lunch is wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t it be cool to know the history behind every log you 587

seen on the forest floor? Was it wind? Was it heavy snow? Was it bark beetles? When did this tree become a log? Was anyone ever around to see this? I also thought about how the trail teaches us to not delay saying things to those we care about. It’s entirely possible a hiker you’re friends with and hanging out with for weeks can suddenly be ahead or behind you. Without cell signals for the majority of the time, sometimes you don’t even know. The point is, if you want to communicate how important another person is to you, do it now. I think this is a good principle to apply to off-trail life too. As an example, I know a guy who was not super close to his father. There were conversations that were always delayed and feelings never openly communicated. Then one day the father died of a heart attack and those unsaid things died too and left a hole in that guy’s heart for a long time. The point is, express yourself. It’s good to live with no regrets. After lunch, I zombie-hiked through the noticeable heat wave, which appropriately showed up on the first day of summer. I hiked through the forest up very steep hills and down muddy slopes. One of these muddy slopes got the best of me and I went for a 10 foot slide on my rear end. My freshly laundered shorts, now covered in mud.

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My ankle was not good, but not the worst itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s been either. The outside of my left knee is now starting to bother me. Likely an issue caused by compensating for my shitty right ankle. That being said my main issue today was simply lack of sleep. I stopped and took a 30 minute nap on the ground at 3:30 pm. I woke up feeling better and hiked another 8 miles before settling up camp at a tent site in the forest.

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campsiteI’m camped by myself for the ?fourth? night in a row. I like the quiet that comes with sleeping in a campsite alone. I do however miss sharing good conversation over dinner. Tonight while eating I wondered again where Chilly Bin was since I think she’s the closest person from my trail family that’s behind me. She was one of my favorite people to hike with since she and I often hiked at the same pace and had good talks and good humor. I miss her singing too. I hope she catches me before I leave South Lake Tahoe next week. I plan on getting to town on Sunday, and then taking two zero days. I plan on using one of my zero days to just play poker at a casino and rest my legs. The other zero day is likely involving a pool, a hot tub, Jessica Alba (in my dreams), and a few cold IPAs. Since this blog post was merely a collection of random thoughts, here’s one last one. I really miss is watching Red Sox games with my wife while sitting on the couch with my two huskies, drinking a Firestone Union Jack and eating my homemade mashed potato pizza topped with mushrooms, red onion, fresh basil, and andouille sausage. I must hike faster to make it home in time for the playoffs.

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PCT - Day 65: 6/22/2018 - Trail Angels and Sad News - 2018-06-23 07:38

Trail miles: 21.2 from 1036.2 - 1057.4 Miles walked: 22.9

What a roller coaster of emotions today. This day was a day of dreams becoming reality, but also nightmares coming to fruition. First, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll let the readers know that this post is going to be difficult to digest. Maybe donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t read this one at the office. The morning started like most mornings on the trail. I woke up at 5:30 am and immediately pulled my hood down to block the light and went back to sleep until 6:40 am. After packing up my brand new tent (which is awesome), I was on the trail at 7:15 am and clicking off miles pretty quickly. The trail took me through a forest and past a meadow or two, some creeks, and a lake or two.

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During my morning hike, I grabbed a few jelly beans from a bag of jelly beans and looked in my hand and there was a jelly bean flower. I assume this flower is for my wife who is nice enough to remove all the black jelly beans before sending me these in a resupply box.

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Jellybean flower I had stopped on a ridge to upload content for my blog when Mermaid showed up. I’d met her only once or twice before and each encounter was brief. This time we hiked together and talked for a few miles. The conversation flowed well but eventually she and a friend of hers named Raven, who’d caught up with us, turned on the jets to make it to trail magic. Text messages from people in front of us confirmed rumors of “trail magic deluxe!” at highway 4. The last two miles before the trail magic, my ankle was really bad. I was in a lot of pain and I limped into the trail magic at Ebbetts Pass. My bad mood from the ankle troubles suddenly vanished.

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Trail Magic Ahead This trail magic was like nothing I’d ever seen. Multiple trail angels tended to each hiker. They saw I was limping and before I knew it I was sitting in a chair with a ziploc bag full of ice on my ankle. Then I was ASKED... “Pizza or Burger?” I looked at their setup and they had a grill AND a pizza oven! I of course went with the pizza option and while it was being baked, I feasted on a banana, cookies, potato chips, and a caramel covered brownie. I washed this and the amazing pizza down with three sodas.

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The trail magic is run by two guys named Alan and Tim. They are dedicated and they’ve even branded a van with the name “Limit Situation Trail Magic”. These trail angels are so generous (like all the trail angels we meet). When I asked why they do it, Alan’s response nearly brought me to tears, because it did bring him to tears. He said he does it because it’s one of the truest ways to connect with people. He said the hikers he feeds and treats like kings and queens are truly grateful.

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Hikers and Angels ConnectingHe also noted that the time hikers spend lounging at his setup is quality time where hikers and the trail angels get to really connect with one another without interruptions of cell phones, etc. I have the utmost respect and gratitude for Alan and his huge heart. Guys like him restore faith in humanity. After spending over three hours just hanging out with Scuzi, Spiceman, Raven, Mermaid, Pants, and others I was the first to depart at 4:15 pm, knowing my ankle would give me some trouble and I still wanted to hike another 6-8 miles.

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I ended up hiking almost 10 more miles through terrain that resembled parts of Colorado. Aspens, 598

wildflowers, and conglomerate rock dominated the afternoonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trail. As daylight was waning, I finally exited a canyon and found a tent site.

This was right as the sun was setting. Before I even started settling up my tent, I took my phone out of airplane mode and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s when my day took another drastic turn.

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Sunset

New Tent I learned from my brother Chris that my nephew Jack had been in a very bad motorcycle accident tonight. He was airlifted to a hospital in Boston and apparently he had to be revived a few times en route. I dropped to the ground and wept after hanging up the phone. I called my other brother Eric and 600

he answered. He was at the hospital waiting for Jack to emerge from surgery. I felt helpless. There was nothing I could say or do. Eric was emotional as any parent would be in this situation and he told me what I could do was say a prayer since I, being in the mountains, was probably closer to God than anyone else in our family at the moment. After crying on the phone with Eric, I sat in the dirt while watching the alpen glow from the sunset and uttered my first prayer in twenty years. I prayed aloud for Jack to pull through this and make a full recovery.

I then cried some more while doing routine hiker chores like treating water, making dinner, and setting up my tent. While cooking, I was staring off into the twilight and a huge buck trotted right by about 20 feet in front of me. He had an enormous rack and stopped for 2 seconds in front of me, looked at me, and then trotted off. I like to think it was a positive sign for Jack. I also learned tonight that HoosierDaddy is getting off trail at South Lake Tahoe and heading home due to some medical problems. That guy was a class act and I’m certain this breaks his heart. I just wish I could give him a hug and tell him what a great friend I think he is. Tonight, I lie awake wondering how the surgery is going and waiting for any message or phone call. Thus far it’s almost two hours after hiker midnight and I’ve heard nothing. It’s almost 2:00 am now in Boston. This morning I would have done anything to be rid of this ankle pain. Tonight I’d hike another 1600 miles 601

to Canada with this pain or worse if it meant that Jack recovers from this.

Editorial update from Adam's Dad: It is with a heavy heart that I write this update. At 2:13 am (Boston time) just after Adam sent this email for me to post, I got a call from Eric and found out that Jack had passed away due to injuries from the accident. I called Adam and updated him. He plans to hike to South Lake Tahoe as soon as he can. He then expects to fly to Massachusetts to be with his family in this time of sorrow.

RIP Jack Wilbur 1997 - 2018

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LaVada Taylor (2018-06-23 09:44:32) Sorry to hear about your nephew’s accident. It is so hard to lose those we love, especially when they are young. May you all find peace in this time of grief and gathering together. Thinking of you and your family

Unknown (2018-06-24 10:43:56) Adam, I am so sorry for your loss and it must be hard to take out there on the trail, I am glad you will soon be with your family!! I am Opera’s mom, Linda and have been following you and will miss your blog and your way of seeing things out there on the trail..If you are ever in the Vancouver area please stop here and get some “trail magic”, I was so looking forward to doing that with the tramily!! Wishing you the best always, Linda

PCT - Day 66: 6/23/2018 - Help from Greg and Carolyn - 2018-06-24 07:47

Trail miles: 13.7 from 1057.4 - 1071.1 Miles walked: 18.1 I received a call from my Dad while in my tent last night. He informed me that Jack passed away during surgery. I didn’t sleep much after that. That and there were multiple deer wandering around my campsite making me constantly have to inspect whether it was deer or a bear.

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From the time I woke up Jack was dominating my thoughts. I desperately wanted to be off trail and to be home with my family. I have no idea how to console someone with the sudden loss of a child or sibling. I was hiking with a heavy heart with tears flowing freely for much of the morning. Three times I simply dropped my trekking poles and sat in the middle of the trail and cried. The second time this happened I ran into the first hiker I saw all day. His dog was ahead of him and it walked up and started licking the tears from my face. The guy asked me if I was doing ok. I briefly explained to him what was going on and he then politely apologized for his dog and quietly walked away.

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I didn’t even really pay attention to the trail or the surroundings much today. About 7 miles into my day, I crossed Blue Lakes Road where I immediately got the idea of hitchhiking into South Lake Tahoe so I could accelerate getting to Reno for a flight to Boston. I tried hitchhiking for about ten minutes but only saw one car, which drove by and waved at me, but didn’t stop. I saw a couple other hikers a hundred yards down the road. I walked over and discovered they’d been hitchhiking for over an hour and had only seen three cars. They suggested I might have better luck getting to Tahoe by hitchhiking from Carson Pass which was another 11.1 miles north on the PCT. Just then, another car drove by, I stuck my thumb out and was again waved at as they drove by. It’s as if they were saying “I see you, but I’m not picking you up”. This angered me. I could have chucked a rock through this guy’s rear window as he drove by. Instead I stormed off and started hiking the 11.1 extra miles to Carson Pass.

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I took pictures of flowers as I went to calm myself down. The Chesse-Burg-Er birds gave me audible hugs with their song. I hiked with a purpose only focusing on my foot placement, yet I still tweaked my ailing ankle another two times in a five mile stretch. While climbing a steep hill above the Lost Lakes, I passed numerous ponds where the mosquitoes tried to use my ears like secret passageways, as if my head was a game of Ms. Pac-Man.

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It was so hot, and I was in mission-mode. I refused to even stop to drink water. After a few hours my body began shutting down from lack of hydration and food. I still refused to stop until I intersected with a Jeep road in hopes of scoring a ride to town from a weekend warrior. Twenty minutes later, I sat in a small patch of shade at this intersection of a 4x4 road and the PCT. It was almost 2:00 pm. I ate a snack and drank some water.

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As I was cooling down, I caught some movement from the 4x4 road. A young couple was walking in my direction. As they approached, I asked if they knew any place closer to potentially hitch from in order to get into Tahoe. They reiterated what I already knew... Carson Pass. I explained why I was asking and thanked them. They walked off, but quickly returned and offered to drive me to South Lake Tahoe. I graciously accepted this offer and offered gas money which they refused. We introduced ourselves and this is how I met Greg and Carolyn.

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These two were the most kindhearted people Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d met in 1071 miles. We hiked two miles on the dirt road towards their truck. We were heading back south at a lower elevation from the direction Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d just come from earlier. We took a short detour to see the Lost Lakes since that was one of their objectives in the first place. We talked a bit but also hiked in silence that under most circumstances would have been awkward. Today that silence was like the silence a couple of good friends can share without it being uncomfortable.

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They drove me about an hour to South Lake Tahoe. Once I received a cell signal on our drive, I was trying to coordinate my travel plans and chatting with family. Greg and Carolyn were very understanding. They dropped me at the hostel and I hugged them and thanked them profusely. I went into the hostel explained my situation and they informed me that they were sold out and I couldn’t stay the night. They did give me a free beer and offered me a “day use” which included a shower for $10. I took this offer knowing I needed to shower before boarding a plane. While I was in the hostel lobby, Carolyn poked her head in and just said “We’re taking you to Reno.” This made my already fragile emotional state just crumble. I could’ve hugged Carolyn for ten minutes. Ziploc was also at the hostel when I arrived, and she knew of what happened with Jack. She was great and offered to help in any way possible. After a hug that kept my tears going, she ran to get me a couple things from the store while I showered and stripped my pack of anything TSA would bitch about (trekking poles, knife, tent poles & stakes, fuel, etc.). All the while, Greg and Carolyn waited patiently for me to get my shit together. As I was readying to leave, I realized I would likely never see Ziploc again. I gave her a big hug and my heart was again broken. This time it was with the idea that I’d probably never see my amazing German friend again. Ziploc and I clashed a lot because we both have strong personalities, but in the end, I really enjoyed her company even if I never had a chance of keeping up with her when hiking with her. By the time I get back to trail, she will be 200+ miles in front of me. 610

After Ziploc and I shared a teary and emotional goodbye, Greg and Carolyn drove me 90 minutes in traffic to Reno’s airport. I had reluctantly accepted that I’d be spending a long night at the airport since every single hotel in Reno and South Lake Tahoe was sold out thanks to numerous weekend events. When they dropped me off, I gave Greg and Carolyn hugs that expressed my deepest gratitude. Thanks to them, soon I’ll be able to share hugs with my family in Massachusetts. These two angels were empathetic, classy, and truly amazing; just the kind of character Jack was. ~ For those that follow this blog closely, my return flight to Reno is on 7/2. I hope to make it back to the PCT sometime on 7/3. Until then, this blog will be going dark. Thank you for your understanding. ~

2018 - 07

PCT - Day 67: 7/2/2018 - Back on the Trail - 2018-07-04 15:12

Trail miles: 9.3 from 1092.3 - 1101.6 Miles walked: 9.8 I returned to the PCT today after spending eight days traveling and hanging out with my family in New England. I was hopeful that my unexpected time off trail would have at least served as good rest for my ailing right ankle. Yesterday I left my brother’s place in Fitchburg, MA around 3:15 pm ET. After a 75 minute drive to Boston, two flights, and an $88 Uber ride, I was curling up in a king size bed in a room at Harvey’s Lake Tahoe around 1:30am PT. Of course, I woke up around 6:00 am. After reading a bit, I showered and then checked out of my room. It was hard to leave the luxurious accommodations especially since my room was complimentary. I still get free rooms sometimes in Caesar’s owned casinos thanks to my reputation from my poker playing days. Around 8:30 am, I was sitting in front of the office at the hostel awaiting the 9:00 am opening so I could get my resupply packages and stuff I had left there a week prior. While I was sitting there, Tapeworm and Opera walked downstairs. We hadn’t seen each other since Crabtree Meadows on June 4th. It was really great seeing my friends again and we shared a hug. Tapeworm informed me that I had missed Chilly Bin and Peanut Butter by no more than 30 minutes. This saddened me slightly since I was really looking forward to seeing them. Opera and Tapeworm hung out 611

while I opened all my packages, which included a much needed new pair of shoes. Yay!

Tapeworm & Opera After buying some fuel, eating, and shipping home my bounce box, we took an Uber to Echo Lake where we would pick up the PCT again. Echo Lake was mobbed with day hikers which added to my less than awesome feeling. I was struggling getting motivated and after an average $8 milkshake, I was really ready for a nap. Instead of a nap though, we began our hike at 2:30 pm in the hottest part of the day. Almost immediately I was sweating like a whore in church.

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Echo LakeWithin an hour I realized the eight days of rest did nothing for my ankle. It hurt as much as ever and felt unstable and weak to boot. I have self diagnosed my ankle problem as an anterior ankle impingement. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t believe thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s much that can be done. By the time we reached Lake Aloha, I was considering where I would be ending my hike since I think my ankle will continue to get worse with each day. This was one of a handful of reasons I was in a somber mood while taking in the views of this spectacular lake. Another reason for my somber mood was because I kept thinking about Jack. I now carry a picture of Jack in my backpack, which I took out at Lake Aloha so Jack could share the view. I kept wondering if Jack knew how much he is missed by his friends and family.

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I limped across the imaginary line at mile 1100 and stopped shortly after to get water.

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Mile 1100 While putting my water treatment bag away, a guy walked up who looked really familiar. It took me a second but my mouth dropped with surprise when I realized it was Paint Peeler! I hadn’t seen him since the town of Julian around mile 80 back on day five of my hike. Over a 1000 miles later there we were, talking and walking together like we’d been hiking together the whole time. This was really strange since earlier in the day, I had crossed paths with Surgeon and Mouse while buying fuel. I hadn’t seen them since Idyllwild. I learned that Paint Peeler had also been battling ankle problems in addition to a broken toe. His perseverance motivated me to continue rather than bailing on my hike even if it meant hiking with constant ankle pain. Paint Peeler stopped for the night around Heather Lake. I pushed onto Susie Lake where Opera and Tapeworm were waiting.

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We ate dinner and shared laughs like old times. A little bottle of whiskey even made the way around our triangle. It was so heartwarming to be sitting in the dirt and eating with my friends again. After dinner, Tapeworm and Opera were busy rigging a bear bag hang as I took a short stroll and watched the final alpenglow fade on the mountains in the distance. I thought again of my nephew Jack. I thought of a few people that I wished I could share this moment with. Instead, I stood alone on the rocky hillside watching the last of the light fade to black. Then suddenly, that moment of my life was gone... shared with no one.

Tomorrow may bring another moment similar to this, but then again, maybe not. Every single moment is precious. If everyone treated these moments as THE potential last moment, just imagine the powerful love weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d all share.

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Day 68: 7/3/2018 - Susie & a Bag of Dicks - 2018-07-04 15:29

Trail miles: 25.3 from 1101.6 - 1126.9 Miles walked: 25.6

It was a hot night last night next to Susie, and as a result I didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t sleep well. Susie is a lake by the way. I finally crawled out of my tent at 5:00 am. Two falcons dive-bombed me as I hunted for a private place to go to the bathroom. They buzzed my head a few times and were very vocal that my presence was not welcome. I assume this is for one of two reasons. Either, I was unknowingly walking near their nest. Or it could be, that they being falcons, are still bitter about blowing a 28-3 lead late in the third quarter of the Super Bowl. These birds must have seen my Boston Red Sox hat and just assumed I was also a New England Patriots fan.

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I was on the trail at 6:00 am, walking away and stealing a last look at Susie from above, but now my focus was on Dicks. Dicks is the name of a Pass and a lake, but it’s spelled Dicks, not Dick’s. This led me to wonder why this lake is named after dicks. It’s not shaped like a dick. I mean, Guitar Lake was shaped like a guitar, so I thought maybe Dicks Lake would be shaped like a bunch of dicks, or at least more than one dick since the name is the plural Dicks. Instead the lake is sort of shaped like a bag of dicks, but it’s not named “Bag of Dicks Lake”, just Dicks Lake. I met several southbound TRT (Tahoe Rim Trail) hikers walking away from Dicks and I would ask “Did you just come from Dicks?” I got a lot of weird looks for asking this question for some reason. Also, nobody could tell me why it wasn’t named “Bag of Dicks Lake”. Oh well, it’s a mystery. Thankfully the PCT skirted Dicks. It instead brought me right along the edge of a spectacular lake named Fontanillis. I don’t know what that word is, but I assume it’s related to dicks. After all, in a few miles I also walked along Blackwood Creek. Blackwood is certainly related to dicks.

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My ankle was really tender and painful all day. I had taken a Voltaren to start my day, and by 11:00 am, I needed to swallow a Vicodin just to be able to walk. I again ran the gauntlet of thoughts and emotions about possibly getting off trail due to my piece of shit ankle. I was still making decent time though, and around 1:00 pm, I stopped a couple miles into the Desolation Wilderness to eat lunch. I had already covered nearly 17 miles. I elevated my ankle and foot like I do on all my breaks, and tried to nap, but my brain wanted to continue to hike. I wanted to try and knock out 25 or maybe 30 miles.

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Around mile 21, I knew I would not be doing 30. My ankle was screaming in pain. The pain only subsided briefly while I was chatting with a cute French woman from Paris who was hiking a section of the TRT. Another mystery from today is why do I get so worked up over girls with foreign accents? I know Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m not the only one this applies to either. After I slogged a few more miles, I found a solo campsite overlooking Lake Tahoe in the distance. I was trying to catch up to Opera and Tapeworm but this view was too good to pass up, and my ankle desperately needed rest.

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I am going to try to do another 25 miles tomorrow in hopes of closing the gap between myself and Chilly Bin and Peanut Butter. If I wake up and my ankle is worse than today, I may have to make a tough decision on whether or not to continue and hike in severe pain all the time, or get off trail and let my dream of thru hiking the PCT die. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a decision Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll delay for yet another day, like I have been doing for a few hundred miles now.

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Day 69: 7/4/2018 - tough decision and true friends - 2018-07-05 10:28

Trail miles: 9.1 from 1126.9 - 1136.0 Miles walked: 16.5 (side trail & Reno bonus miles)

My ankle was in intense pain all night long. I barely slept at all and thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s after a Vicodin and an Advil PM. I decided at 5:00 am that enough was enough. I was getting off trail. My ankle was becoming a liability, and honestly hiking day after day in progressively worsening pain was not fun.

I ate a few handfuls of granola and a Snickers bar while watching the sunrise. I cried numerous times today, but the tears that came with my final PCT sunrise were the most intense. My dream of completing this 2650 mile journey was coming to an end before I even reached the halfway point. My tears were not just from the broken dream. They were also for the great friends I would be saying goodbye to, and some 623

that I would never get the opportunity to say goodbye to. My tears were also for the uncertain life circumstances that awaited me back in Colorado. But mostly my tears were for the love that Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d be missing; love that I felt daily from my trail family, trail angels, and the trail itself. I limped away from my final PCT campsite around 5:50 am. Ten minutes into my morning, I walked past where Opera and Tapeworm had camped the previous night. Apparently I had stopped .2 miles short of them last night. It was obvious to them that I was in a great deal of pain as I hobbled toward them. I told them I was going to get off trail because of my ankle problems. Tapeworm gave me a hug and I choked back some tears. Opera then gave me a hug and I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stop my tears when I saw that she had tears in her eyes too. I wished them well and walked away slowly while sobbing to myself and hiding behind my sunglasses. An hour later Opera and Tapeworm caught up to me. I had only covered about a mile in that first hour. I moved over to let them pass and they told me they were going to hike with me to make sure I made it out safely. Love filled my heart from this gesture, but I still felt guilty since they were having to slow down significantly to hike with me. We hiked up to a ridge that would ultimately lead to the Alpine Meadows Ski Area. We walked through beautiful fields of purple, blue, and yellow wildflowers. During our morning, we reminisced about good times we shared in the desert. Recalling these great memories was enjoyable yet it hurt too; since I knew I would no longer be out here creating those memories. I walked in front of the three of us sometimes laughing, sometimes crying silently. All the while they retold stories from earlier in our adventure.

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We finally reached a creek where we refilled water. Opera asked a day hiker where the nearest trailhead was and learned there was a trailhead on Alpine Meadows Road about four miles away. I decided I would exit the PCT here.

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We ate lunch while I soaked my swollen ankle in the cold creek. Tapeworm asked me if there was anything he could do for me. I handed him the picture of Jack that I’d been carrying and asked that he take the photo north, so Jack’s adventure could continue. He agreed and slipped the picture into a Ziploc bag and tucked it into his pack. This means the world to me as well as my brother’s family back in Massachusetts. After lunch we hiked .1 mile to the Five Lakes Trail junction. Here I would head east to Alpine Meadows Road and they would continue north towards Canada. Tapeworm stopped and took his pack off and pulled out the remainder of a bottle of whiskey. The three of us stood there in the afternoon sun passing a Coke bottle full of Evan Williams whiskey back and forth until it was all gone. We then hugged again and this time I lost it. Tapeworm and Opera both in turn each said “I love you.” I was choked up by this and could only get my failing voice to mumble an “I love you too.”

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I turned and started walking away with tears filling my eyes. I looked back only once, just in time to see them as they hiked out of sight. I hiked down that side trail lost in thought. Eventually I made it to Alpine Meadows Road and quickly got a hitch to highway 89. After another 20 minutes in the sun, I was picked up again and given a ride to I-80 in Truckee. I attempted to hitch to Reno for about 45 minutes before I finally just said “Fuck it” and paid another $88 for an Uber to Reno. I checked into my free room at Harrahs, showered, did some laundry in the sink, and put on wet boxers and shorts. I then hobbled 1.5 miles to a Walgreens and back to buy a bag of jalapeño potato chips, some Mt Dew, and deodorant; which I assume the passengers on my flight home will appreciate on Friday. I then made the mistake of eating at a sushi restaurant in the casino. The sushi sucked. It made day old gas station sushi seem like a good idea. Disappointed and still depressed about leaving trail, I stopped at a blackjack table on my slow walk back to my room. I turned a $100 into $300 in ten minutes, so I cashed out and decided to go put my glorious king size bed to good use. Hopefully my ankle would allow sleep tonight. I’m planning on visiting my orthopedic surgeon next week. If there’s some miracle he can perform, I might be back. I do feel like that’s unlikely though. Either way, I truly enjoyed my 1100 miles or so and have memories that will last a lifetime. I also created connections to people that may necessitate new travel adventures all over the planet to keep in touch. 627

Thanks to all of my blog readers, all the amazing trail angels, anyone who ever gave me a ride when I was hitchhiking, Siona for tirelessly helping with my resupply, my Dad for putting these blog posts together, and the wonderful people I work with for allowing me to embark on this crazy adventure in the first place. The biggest thanks however goes to all the other PCT hikers. Each and every one of you shared your beautiful soul with me for hours, days, weeks, or months. Your smiles, our shared laughter, and our genuine love created a bond that made this adventure what it was. I love you all! I will never forget you.

Fred Wilbur (2018-07-05 10:44:05) Adam, I can't tell you how proud I am of you. To hike over 1100 miles is an incredible feat and full of wonderful memories and new friends. I can only imagine how disappointing it is for you to have to leave the trail due to your ankle injury. Interesting enough, your sister and I also made a decision to get off trail prematurely at the same time you were doing so. We had hiked about 1/2 way to our 30 mile goal when after two days of getting rained on and feeling totally exhausted and in pain. We knew the next 15 miles were going to be more difficult, so we made a call to end our hike. We also called for a ride to our car. We didn't know how wise our decision was until we go into the car and it started raining at the rate of 2" per hour. For the next few hours it poured. I can't image how we would have dealt with flash floods on a trail. We then appreciated the decision we made. So, maybe your decision was also wise one. Who knows you may have saved yourself from very serious damage, so you may hike again. Time may tell. I remember your advice you gave me in the Chicago Basin when you said something like 'reaching the summit is optional, getting down is mandatory.' You taught hiking well. There is no shame in being wise. Love you Dad

LaVada Taylor (2018-07-05 11:22:37)

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Adam - I've enjoyed reading your blog. You're a great writer and should consider doing more with your writing. You have an interesting perspective and honesty that keeps the reader engaged. I can hear your voice, your laughter, your anger and tears as you express your emotions. That is a gift. You are gifted in many ways that I don't think you realize. These are things that have always come easy for you, but are difficult for others. I'm sorry for the loss of Jack. I can only imagine the pain that your family, especially his parents & siblings, are feeling. It is so hard to lose someone too soon, and I know that pain & grief. I hope to hear your laughter, in person, soon. Take care, friend! Love ya, Vada

Neil (2018-07-05 12:04:36) As one of the 'silent' readers of your blog posts, I'll chime in at the very end to say I've enjoyed your posts immensely and appreciated the candor of your writing. I hope your ankle can be repaired in short order, so that you can get back on a trail, if not the PCT. Best wishes! Neil

Kevin Marshall (2018-07-05 16:34:47) Circus Act, I have enjoyed your blogs immensely and hope they continue, either after you miraculous healing and return to the PCT or on future trails and adventures. I wish I had some great words of wisdom that would make your situation even the tiniest bit better, but I don’t...

Unknown (2018-07-05 17:17:33) Adam, This post has me crying, I was so hoping you and your trail family would get together again and put on a bunch of miles!! I find it so amazing that you were able to get this far with so much pain, you have a strong core in your nature and made of sturdy stock as my mom would say! This is Opera’s mom by the way and our house is ready here to give you some trail magic if you are ever out in the Vancouver area, and I truly mean that!! Please stay in touch with Opera so we know how you’re doing!

Unknown (2018-07-06 12:03:01)

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Hello, what is Opera's blog? I'd love to follow.

Adam Wilbur (2018-07-06 15:53:35) https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCeAM1t-YhJM1g22erfc5V1A

Unknown (2018-07-05 17:28:00) Adam, not sure if you have watched Opera’s videos but love the photo of you at the end of episode 16 with Mehdi and at the beginning of her video episode 18!!

Adam Wilbur (2018-07-05 18:08:44) Ah, episode 18... it lives in infamy in the internet. :)

Ziploc (2018-07-05 21:21:45) Adam, sitting here at JJ’s in Old Station reading your blog post and I can’t stop crying. Remember what you said numerous times to me... what is more important, reaching Canada or having a great time on the PCT and eventually not making it. Your time ended earlier than you wished for, but as you wrote yourself, you had the time of your life. Sending a big hug your way and hope that Germany will be one of the future travel adventures. Thanks for all the memories created on the PCT mile 298.5 to 1090! /Ziploc

Adam Wilbur (2018-07-06 14:14:31) The feeling is mutual, but now I’m the one crying in the airport while reading this. I will miss you so much.

Johanna (2018-07-05 21:26:21) It’s amazing to me that you not only got to pursue a personal dream by hiking over 1100 miles, but you also built a strong community of friends out there, that obviously extended out into this blog. We who 630

have been following you are lucky to have experienced what you did, even if it was vicariously. Your writing has let us live those ups and downs with you. I know it’s terrible to have to stop now. But I am proud of what you have done, both physically, and mentally. You’ve been through a lot and lived each day to its fullest. Now you can take that — the real trail magic — and bring it back with you.

Unknown (2018-07-06 12:02:37) Been following you since the beginning and loved every bit of it. My wife and I plan I thru hiking the PCT but not for a few more years when our kids are all grown. Thanks for taking us on this journey with you!

Unknown (2018-07-06 20:36:43) Adam, so sorry you had to leave the trail. Your intestinal fortitude is incredible and inspiring. I'll miss the blogs for sure! Good luck with your ankle and your return to Colorado. God bless!!

Emma (2018-07-10 19:54:38) I've really enjoyed following along - thank you for documenting your journey for those of us who can only dream of hiking the PCT! I'm so sorry that the last few weeks have been so tough with your nephew's passing and having to get off trail. I hope the next few weeks bring you peace and whatever else you need during this time.

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My Son's PCT Hike

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Another Hiking PCT Story

Another Hiking PCT story