pick three
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BY KATY YOCOM | PHOTOS BY DAN DRY
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Think of “deli” and your mind might go to the New York classics — guys behind a meat counter piling pastrami onto marbled rye. For this installment of Pick Three, we visited three local delis that do things their own way. At Heitzman Traditional Bakery & Deli, a fourth-generation member of the Heitzman family fills the deli case with recipes her mom developed in the 1950s. Main Street Café, less than two years old, has already reinvented itself to stay ahead of the curve in its up-and-coming neighborhood. And Lotsa Pasta reveals its secret to staying relevant when you can buy your prosciutto at the chain grocery stores.
Heitzman’s — Going strong after four generations It all started in 1891, when her great-granddad, Jacob Heitzman, opened Heitzman’s Bakery. In 1924, her grandfather, Charles, took over. In 1954, her parents took the helm and added a catering division. Fifteen years ago, Marguerite Schadt — the youngest member of the fourth generation of Heitzmans — and her husband, Dan, bought the family business and made it their own. Whether she’s whipping up specialty salads, ringing up a lunch order or helping a couple plan a wedding reception, it’s clear that Schadt is in her element at Heitzman Traditional Bakery & Deli, located in a strip mall on Shelbyville Road. “I’ve been in it” — meaning the family business — “since I was itty bitty,” she says, so she’s comfortable with all of it, even the days that consistently begin before sunrise. Dan is at work by 4:00 a.m., handling the baking; she’s in charge of the deli and catering, opening for breakfast at 6:00. Although they have a staff of 18, Schadt herself does a lot of the cooking, working from recipes her grandmother and mother developed in the 1950s. The deli is known for its chicken and dumpling soup, among other specialties. “The guys love the crab cakes,” which sell for $6.99. And “a lot of the ladies like something not as heavy” and favor salads such as the Briar Club ($6.99), made with chicken strips, mandarin oranges and poppy-seed dressing. “Everything is made from scratch right here, every day,” Schadt says. “It’s the traditions. We just try to make it better.” Traditions or no, the deli has to keep pace with the times. Right now, gluten-free items are in high demand. Schadt takes it in stride, noting that it’s easy enough to accommodate special needs “because everything’s made by hand.”