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2009

Mountain Country GRAND TETON & YELLOWSTONE REGION

101 Things To Do Vacation Excursions Boating • Hiking • Climbing Biking • Rodeo • Fishing Trail Rides • Wildlife

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Explore MOUNTAIN COUNTRY

On the Cover: Hiking in Grand Teton National Park Contentspagephotos,clockwisefrom top left: Hiking in the Tetons; pasque flowers; team roping at the rodeo; white-water rafting on the Snake; landing a cutthroat trout ;rappelling the Grand Teton Publishers Bob Woodall & Wade McKoy dba Focus Productions, Inc. Editors Mike Calabrese,Wade McKoy, Bob Woodall Photo Editor Eric Rohr Art Director Janet Melvin Distribution Manager Jeff Leger

TOWNS 34 36 39 42 45 48 50

Jackson Cody Teton Village Victor & Driggs Pinedale West Yellowstone Dubois

MAPS & DIRECTORIES 51 Lodging Directory 52 Business Directory 54 Greater Yellowstone Map

5 16 20 21 22 24 25 28 30 32 39 42

101 Things To Do Fishing Rafting the Snake River Regional Boating Information Biking Community Pathways Hiking Climbing Horseback Riding Rodeos Jackson Hole Resort Grand Targhee Resort

MUSEUMS 38 Buffalo Bill Historical Center 47 Museum of the Mountain Man

Copyright 2009 by Focus Productions, Inc., P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming, 83001. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publishers. Mountain Country Adventure Guide is a free visitor’s guide published annually in May and distributed all summer at hundreds of locations throughout Jackson Hole, Cody, West Yellowstone, Pinedale, Dubois, and other regional communities, and at information centers throughout the Greater Yellowstone area. To receive a copy in the mail, send $5 to Mountain Country, P.O. Box 1930, Jackson, Wyoming 83001. Our Web site, focusproductions.com, displays this magazine as well as the Jackson Hole Dining Guide and our winter traveler’s guide, the Jackson Hole Skier.

Photos this page: Wade McKoy and Bob Woodall

5 America’s National Parks 50 National Bighorn Sheep Center 49 Grizzly & Wolf Discovery Center

RECREATION

Cover Photo: Wade McKoy

NATURE

Advertising Sales Jackson Hole & Teton Valley Nanci Montgomery, 307-699-1607 Kyli Fox, 307-733-6995 West Yellowstone Janet Melvin, 406-556-8655 Cody, Dubois & Pinedale Bob Woodall, 307-733-6995


101

Vacation Adventures in Mountain Country

THINGS TO DO

Relax. That’s what vacations are all about. Soak in the sights. Flip through Mountain Country and check out the fun things to do in this vast land. Utilize our wonderful visitor centers, some tourist attractions themselves. Local bookstores and libraries provide a great resource, too.

First, get in the gate. A single entrance fee gains access to both Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) andYellowstone National Park (YNP).These entrance gates are not information booths, though, so be sure to visit the many great information centers found in our parks and gateway towns. The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem (GYE),the largest intact ecosystem in the lower 48 states, includes a dozen mountain ranges along the Great Divide, the first and largest national park and national forest, the farthest point from a road outside Alaska, and, not surprisingly, wildlife galore. Slow down and watch for wildlife—Sometimes called the American Serengeti,YNP and GTNP are home to bison, elk, deer, moose, grizzly and black bear, wolves, mountain lion, wolverine, osprey, eagles, and a myriad of other small animals, too. Go early in the morning and keep your eyes peeled. Lamar and Hayden valleys in YNP are sure bets for bison. Moose frequent willowed bottomlands. Be careful, though, and never approach or feed wildlife. For great results, take a wildlife tour with qualified guides. Waterfalls—The 308-foot Lower Falls of the Yellowstone River is the granddaddy of the many roadside water features, but a hike can reveal the park’s more obscure, spectacular torrents. In the Tetons thousands of siteseers trek to Hidden Falls, which,

The buffalo roam in Jackson Hole among yellow flowers (arrowleaf balsam root) and the Grand Tetons. The elusive pica inhabits mainly alpine boulder fields. A mother fox and her kit drew a crowd last summer in Jackson. The western tanager, a favorite of birdwatchers.

Photos by Henry H. Holdsworth, Wild by Nature Gallery; Bob Woodall (top)

NATIONAL PARKS


for many, begins with a boat ride across Jenny Lake. Smell the wild roses—The mountains are famous for a profusion of wildflowers. Starting in late May and June, dazzling displays of color follow the snowline into the mountains. Some are tiny, especially the ones above timberline, so look closely. Old Faithful Inn—Of course the Old Faithful Geyser is on your must-see list, but don’t forget to go inside the spectacular Old Faithful Inn. It’s over 100 years old and bathed in a rich history. Ranger Programs—From RangerAdventure Hikes to Family Campfire Evenings to Stars OverYellowstone, these programs have something for the whole family. The park newspaper contains all the schedules. Get on the bus—Tired of having to watch the road while everyone else gets to look for bears? Then view Yellowstone from the perspective of early park visitors by touring in the luxury of a refurbished “Historic Yellow Bus.” Photograph the sites—Digital, film, recorder, whatever.Everybody’s a pro out here. Get a long lens, too.Again,don’t ever approach wild animals! They can easily outrun people and simply aren’t as fond of us as we are of them.

Road closures—Summer is construction season in the mountains. Expect delays on a number of roads, including a major closure beginning August 17 between Madison and Norris junctions in YNP. Plan accordingly.

Education Schools—Take a seminar or tour offered by the Teton Science Schools or the Yellowstone Association Institute. These nonprofit organizations offer indepth field seminars taught by researchers, biologists, and other experts. Museums—Several outstanding regional and national museums augment many local museums,providing insight into mountain country’s past.In Cody at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center (BBHC), The Greater Yellowstone Adventure in the Draper Museum of Natural History offers an expedition passport that you stamp at various points of interest. Go on an art hunt throughout the five museums of the BBHC to find hidden object details. Complete the search and receive a prize (pg. 38). Jackson’s National Museum of Wildlife Art exhibits over 5,000 works of art on wildlife and nature, many historic. The world-reknowned museum’s grounds and building incorporate art both subtle and dramatic. Each community has a local museum, too, rich in history, quant and modest in setting. Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center—Get skunked in Yellowstone, never spotting a wolf or bear? Well, don’t despair. Head to West Yellowstone and say hello to Sam the grizzly or Lakuna the wolf at this spectacular viewing center (pg. 49). Libraries—Books, music, movies, lectures, and

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The Old Faithful Inn, recently refurbished and 105 years old. Soaring osprey hunting for fish. Grizzly bear sow and cub create a traffic “bear jam.” Jenny Lake, named after the Indian wife of trapper Richard "Beaver Dick" Leigh, was formed about 10,000 years ago when Cascade Canyon’s glacier melted and left a 225-foot depression and terminal moraine.

Bob Woodall (3); Henry H. Holdsworth, Wild by Nature Gallery (osprey)

Passport to your national parks—A fun way to track your lifetime travels across America, buy a “Passport Book” at the park visitor center. Each time you visit a park or monument (there are 390), take the passport book to the Cancellation Station and get it stamped.


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color of just about every community in mountain country. Great havens for tired travelers and curious kids,especially if the weather is a tad uncooperative. Bookstores—Some with coffee, pastries, newspapers, wi-fi, but all with books!

Culture Music festivals—A whole score of music awaits mountain country travelers, including the 22nd Annual Yellowstone Jazz Festival with jazz performances at various locations in Cody and Powell; the Jackson Hole Cowboy Jubilee in September; the Grand Teton Music Festival in Jackson Hole; and Grand Targhee’s Bluegrass and Targhee Fest and music camps. Jackson’s Center for the Arts hosts a number of music and dance concerts, stage presentations, a rock-and-roll camp, and art shows. Art fairs—The great outdoors is inspirational, and what better way to celebrate it than at one of the many art fairs that punctuate the summer weekends throughout the area. Antique shows—Always a bargain to be found at the many antique road shows hosted in Mountain Country. Classic car show— View or bid on vintage cars displayed at the Silver Collector Car Show and Auction, July 4-5 in Teton Village. Early Iron and the Rod Run—Keep your eyes peeled for vintage and antique cars and pickups cruising“the strip”around Jackson Hole, June 12-13 and West Yellowstone,Aug.7-9. The Model T Club of America rolls into Jackson for daily excursions through the parks Aug. 31-Sept. 4. Parked on the Virginian lawn, the display is one to behold. Fall Arts Festival—Jackson’s runs through early fall, highlighted by the Jackson Hole Cowboy Jubilee music and poetry roundup, September 11-14. Ranch tours, culinary events, and endless activities. Gallery walks—Stroll through the many art galleries in these mountain towns. It’s free to look! Join the organized “walks” and get free food in the bargain! Go shopping—Hey, it’s patriotic, helps the whole economy,and is great therapy.The range of products that can be found is amazing. From carved bears to elk antler items to unique clothing. Drive-in theaters—Not many of these left in the world. The Spud Drive-in Theatre, just south of Driggs, Idaho, is a trip back in time. Look for the giant spud on the flatbed truck. Cody hosts its own, too, the Park Drive-in Theater. Imax—The theater in West Yellowstone shows special releases on the parks. Film festivals and TGR World Premiere—September 19, Teton Gravity Research premieres its latest ski flick. Fall film festivals include the Jackson Hole Wildlife Film Festival, Teton Theater Frank’s Fest, the Jackson Hole Film Institute’s offerings, and the August Spud Fest, including live music, at the Spud Drive-in. Walk around the town—Boardwalks and wideopen shop-lined streets from the old West are central to every gateway town in Teton / Yellowstone country. Jackson’s town square is set off by elk-antler archways and ringed by boardwalks. Unique shops, eateries,

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Mountain bikes and horses both take riders far into the outback, where peace and quiet reign. Moose calves stay close to Mom, especially when only a few days old. Steak cookouts, part of the dude ranch experience, come with beef, chicken, and music.


Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks support thousands

of

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Jackson Lake, Mount Moran majestic in the background. Pasque flowers populate forest meadows in early summer. A remote river in Yellowstone entices these young swimmers with warm, thermal-fed waHenry H. Holdsworth, Wild by Nature Gallery (moose); Bob Woodall (cookout–Triangle C Ranch, horsemen–Triangle C Ranch, flower, concert, bison); Wade McKoy (biker, swimmers, boaters)

ters. Free outdoor concerts highlight July 4th celebrations.

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and galleries characterize Mountain Country towns. Live theater—Family fun right in the heart of towns like Jackson Hole,West Yellowstone,and Cody, some even host dinner theater for eats and antics. Go out to eat—An army runs on its stomach, and an army of tourists has countless dining opportunities not available in many areas. Take advantage of the diverse gustatory offerings. Fire department chicken fries and barbecues—Throughout summer volunteer fire departments throw fundraising chicken-fries and BBQs.All visitors are welcomed.A great way to meet locals and experience a sweet slice of American pie. Dance to the music—Don’t just dance to the music, dance to live music. Many bars and taverns offer nightly live music. Get out and kick up your heels! Learn to Western Swing: free lessons at 7:30 on Thursday nights at Jackson’s Cowboy Bar and Monday nights at Jackson Lake Lodge in GTNP. Learn to Square Dance: another Western tradition, master the dosido and allemande left on Tuesday nights at the Rustic Pine Tavern in Dubois,Wyoming. Families welcome. Watch for info. in all our western towns.

Water, Water, Everywhere

White-water rafting—The Snake,Yellowstone,and Shoshone rivers sport miles of white-water action. Myriad commercial services are available, or rent a raft and go get wet (pg. 20).

Covered wagons transport patrons to a hearty chuckwagon dinner and an entertaining cowboy music show. Clear, cold mountain waters are ideal for trout and fishermen alike.

Scenic raft trips—Not into getting wet? Then how about a sublime sunrise voyage in front of the Grand Tetons? Watch a bald eagle soar or dive for breakfast.

A short hike from the Lawrence Rockefeller Preserve reveals the incredible scenic vistas of Phelps Lake.

Canoeing—Want to be a little more intimate with the water? The possibilities are almost endless. Take the family to String Lake in GTNP for a paddle on crystal-clear mountain waters.

Mountain rivers provide ample opportunities to shoot the rapids and infuse pure joy into vacationers.

White-water kayaking—To get really personal with the river,there’s nothing like being in a kayak,splashing through rapids or surfing a wave for as long as you can hold on. Sea kayaking—Not just for the ocean, sea kayaks are more stable than the white-water version,and are a great way to explore lakes and steams. Rubber Duckie—An inflatable kayak, these little personal-watercraft allow for a fun romp down stretches of the Snake, Yellowstone, or Shoshone rivers. Rent a gaggle of them for a group or family outing—no previous experience is necessary. Pontoon boats—Rent the party-craft for an hour or all day and ply the waters of Jackson Lake in GTNP. Take a cruise—Scenic cruises depart from marinas on Jackson Lake and Jenny Lake in GTNP, and on Yellowstone Lake in YNP.On Jackson Lake,breakfast and dinner cruises fill out the day’s menu. Water slide and pool—Rained out or just want to get some exercise? Then head to the J.H. Rec. Center. Complete with lap pool, kids’ pool, Jacuzzi, steam room, and three-story water slide. Take the whole

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Bob Woodall (rafting); Wade McKoy (hiker,Beartooth fish, wagons) All photos Bob Woodall or Wade McKoy; Pass photo courtesy Wilderness Ventures

Go fish—Mountain country holds some of the best fishing steams and lakes in the lower 48 states. The area abounds with fishing shops and guide services. Hire a guide or just get out and explore (pg. 16).


Phelps Lake mirrors (from left) Mount Hunt, Prospector Peak, the Apocalypse Couloir, and Death Canyon. Afternoon thunderstorms produce dramatic visuals as well as potential danger. Calm mornings beckon balloonists. Beartooth Mountains hikers often find themselves above timberline. The Inner-park Loop Road in GTNP is a top American thoroughfare. Western theater entertains with professional talent.

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family. Supervised, adult-led day-adventure programs for kids available,too.Ask about public swimming pools in all mountain country towns. Swim alfresco—You’ll find a number of unique options for outdoor swimming around mountain country. In YNP, check out the Firehole River near Madison Jct. or the Boiling River near Gardiner, where hot springs flow into the river (swimming in hot springs themselves is prohibited and dangerous). In GTNP, String Lake is an outstanding swimming hole, safe for the whole family. If you want it hot and in a commercial swimming pool, visit Granite Hot Springs, south of Jackson. Water ski—The water may be chilly, but the summer sun provides warmth if you want to try the other skiing option. Jackson Lake in GTNP and Fremont Lake near Pinedale offer a number of possibilities for these sports. Sailing—Fremont Lake outside Pinedale, Jackson Lake in GTNP, and Yellowstone Lake all have sailboats in the docks and on the water. Best dam views—Completed in 1910, the Buffalo Bill Dam near Cody is the most impressive one this side of the Hoover Dam. Stroll across the dam and peer 350 feet into the canyon bottom.In GTNP, drive over the Jackson Lake Dam, gaze across the lake at the Tetons, and marvel at the thundering waters churning out of the spillways.

Get a Lift Tram—The Jackson Hole Aerial Tram is back! After two years of construction, the sleek, new $31 million red box is up and running. Ascend 4,139 feet above the valley floor into the alpine zone for a walk,or just to gaze into the mountains (pg. 39). Chairlifts—Not only do these lifts get you up above it all for an impressive view of the scenery, but they also provide a quick access for hikers and mountain bikers. Both Snow King and Grand Targhee mountain resorts offer rides (pg. 42). Tandem paragliding—From the top of the tram, sprout wings on a 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding. Certified pilots with hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons are eager to introduce first-timers to the exhilarating experience of tandem paragliding (pg. 39).

Stagecoach passengers at the Roosevelt Lodge travel through time in Yellowstone. The new Jackson Hole Aerial Tram, open for its inaugural summer season, carries people to the summit of 10,450-foot Rendezvous Mountain. Colorful Native American dancers perform at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center during the Plains Indian Powwow in June. An artist renders Lamar Valley, “en plein air,” not an uncommon sight in America’s national parks.

Balloon rides—Greet the morning by lofting into the crisp mountain air under a colorful hot-air balloon. Bungee-trampolining—Give your child the thrill of a trampoline with the lift and spring of bungee cords (pg. 39). Alpine slide—Ride the chairlift up, then board a sled for a journey down a mountain slide that curves and dips through the forest at Snow King.

The Great Outdoors Hiking—An almost endless supply of trails radiate into the mountains.The only limits are your legs and longing.The views?You supply the adjectives (pg.25). Camping—The great outdoors were made for

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Bob Woodall photos

Glider rides—Mountains create updrafts, and that means good gliding.Check the Driggs airport for information on glider rides.


camping. Get away from the motor home and rough it! Cook out on an open fire and sleep under the stars. Nothing like it under the sun, of course. Climb the Grand—Often listed in the 100 things to do in your life, and for a good reason! Its peak 7,000 feet above the valley, topping the Grand is an attainable goal for anyone in good physical condition and among the right companions. Climbing lessons—If you’re going to climb the Grand,or something not quite as grand, you might want a few of these.Some of the world’s best guides and instructors live here (pg. 28). Mountain biking—Our trail systems are among the best in the country (pg. 22). Pathways—Walk, ride a bike, rollerblade. Jackson Hole’s pathway system rewards all users with a peaceful state of mind (pg. 24).

Neighborhood Pub & Grille  At the base of Snow King Mountain  Fine Whiskeys  17 Draft Beers  Choice Steaks, Fresh Seafood, Fish & Chips, Burgers

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Running, biking races Running a marathon—If you’re a runner on vacation, make running a race part of the fun. Quite a few towns sponsor marathons and half-marathon races as part of holiday events and fairs. In Jackson run up Snow King Mountain or a 4,139-foot Rendezvous Peak. Enter a 24-hour relay—In the Cache-Teton Relay on August 15, 12-person teams start in Logan, Utah, run through four national forests along the historic Oregon Trail and shoreline of the Blackfoot Reservoir, then through Star Valley and finally along the Snake River to finish at the foot of the Tetons. Mountain bike races—No surprise to find plenty of mountain bike races in the Rockies. Teton Village alone hosts four races, including a cycle-cross and the ultimate hill climb up 4,139 vertical feet to the top of Rendezvous Mountain. The Victor/Driggs biking community hosts as many. For local info. check in with bike shops throughout Mountain Country.

Come in and see what’s new!

Road bike races—One of the few – and possibly the best – is the LOTOJA (Logan to Jackson). This 206-mile competition attracts nearly 1,000 cyclists on September 12.

Tee Time Mini golf—Everyone can enjoy this one, without breaking the bank,either! Cody,West Yellowstone,Jackson Hole, and more tucked away at motels all over Mountain Country. Frisbee golf—What a combo! Can you imagine it? At both JHMR and Grand Targhee (pg. 39 & 42). Real golf—More golf courses than you can shake a stick (or a club) at! Jackson Hole sports three, Teton Valley is home to a couple, and the loop from Cody to West Yellowstone to Ashton, Idaho, to Jackson to Dubois, Wyoming, must hold a dozen more. Naturally, the prices range from family to fortune.

Get Western Mountain man rendezvous—The Green River Rendezvous on July 12 in Pinedale,Wyoming,is a pageant that educates visitors about the history of fur-trade era events. Rendezvous in Jackson, Alpine, and West Yellowstone are open to the public. Great places to find unique items. Or, outfit yourself and join in the fun! Indian powwows—This is Indian country, too, so take in a traditional Powwow. The most prominent one is the w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

We’re so much more than Big Macs® and world famous fries. Unwind, rewind and plan new adventures. McDonald’s® of Jackson Hole Open and serving your favorites 5:00am - Midnight Daily Free Wi-Fi with purchase.

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28th Annual Plains Indian Powwow, June 20-21, in Cody, at the BBHC. Indian dancers attempt to catch the judges’ eyes with personal style, footwork falling on the beat of the music, and beautifully crafted dance attire (pg. 36). Chuckwagon dinners and shows—Ranging from dinner under the Tetons at Dornan’s to polished shows with cowboy musicians and theater in most Mountain Country towns. Trail rides, pack trips, and horseback rides— You are in the West after all,so what better way to experience it than astride a horse! Head to the hills for an hour, a day, or even a week (pg. 30). Wagon trains on Togwotee—Just like a pioneer of old, head out into the wilderness in a covered wagon. Experience a campfire under spectacular Western skies. Stagecoach rides—In Jackson Hole, a short ride around downtown Jackson is a fun activity for the kids. From Roosevelt Lodge in YNP, stagecoaches, replicas of those used in early park days, course through four miles of sagebrush and flower-embroidered flats. Cody Trolley Tours—A 60-minute,22-mile tour in a comfortable red & green trolley.Narrators share the story of world-famous William F.“Buffalo Bill”Cody while highlighting historical sites, scenic vistas, geology, wildlife, and Old- and New-West attractions. Dude ranches—The quintessential Western vacation. From rustic to polished, these weeklong emersions into the lore of the Old West are the perfect family getaway. Rodeo—The Old West rides into the arena nightly in Cody and several times a week in Jackson and West Yellowstone. Rodeos are also an integral part of July 4th celebrations throughout the West (pg. 32). Shootout—The legendary Old West shootout is reenacted nightly on the streets of Jackson and Cody. For real-action shooting, though, check out Cody’s Wild West Shootout competition in June. No blanks for this event. Visit a ghost town—Tour the abandoned goldmining town of Kirwin in the mountains southwest of Meeteetse. Four-wheel drive recommended.

Wranglers herd in the riding stock, trusty horses for dudes to ride. Locals dance the cowboy swing. Stargazing into the dark Western skies reveals a mind-boggling display. Beartooth Pass takes travelers on a spectacular tour to 10, 940 feet.

Mule Days—Don’t be stubborn, check out Jake Clark’s Mule Days in Cody, June 17-20. Not just a pack“ani-mule,” this event has a mule parade,rodeo, and auction that highlight the abilities of the venerable saddle mule.

Special Events Elk antler auction—Jackson’s is the King of the Heap, held in late May every year.A real down-home Western-town gathering and kickoff to spring in Mountain Ccountry. Farmers market—No reason to head to the mega market for your fresh food.Watch for popular Farmers Markets throughout the area. Fourth of July—Music, rodeos, community picnics, parades, foot races, and of course fireworks.

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Bob Woodall photos (Camp & horses–Triangle C Ranch)

Cody’s Old Trail Town—One-of-a-kind buildings from the past, including the hideout used by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.Some real graves,too!


What more can we say, check the local papers for complete lists of events. County fairs—These are real community events out here in the West. Horses, cows, pigs, sheep, and the bestgrown produce of locals as well as fiddle contests, magic shows, even carnival rides and stands complete with corn dogs and cotton candy.

Scenic Drives Teton Park Inner Loop —This road takes you as close to the mountains as you can get in a vehicle.For wildlife, come early, stay late.Watch the alpenglow at sunrise and the shadows lengthen at sunset. Beartooth Pass—Truly one of the most spectacular, not-to-be-missed drives in America.Between Red Lodge, Montana, and the Northeast Entrance of YNP, the highway switchbacks up the mountainside to above timberline and the 10,940-foot summit.Along the way crashing waterfalls, cold mountain streams and deep-blue alpine lakes dot the landscape, while jagged granite peaks jut into the sky. The excursion passes from sub-alpine to alpine environments. Give yourself plenty of time, because frequent stops are needed–and a snowball fight in July is required! Chief Joseph Scenic Highway—Between Cody and the Northeast Entrance of YNP, another switchbacking road heads over Dead Indian Hill and into Sunlight Basin. This wide and infrequently used highway is a pleasure to travel along for its isolation and incredible vistas.From the summit you can look deep into both the mountains and the Clarks Fork River Canyon.

Wapiti Valley—Between the East Entrance of YNP and Cody, this spectacular valley is a treat for the eyes. The many strange, eroded rock formations look like, well, whatever your imagination can come up with.Kids excel at this kind of travel creativity. Keep an eye out for the Cookie Monster somewhere up there. Elkhart Park—From Pinedale,the Fremont Lake Road heads north out of town, crosses a glacial moraine, and then climbs past the 10-mile-long Fremont Lake to Elkhart Park. From this popular trailhead, views are afforded deep into the Wind River Mountains and down 2,000 feet to Fremont Lake. Trail Lake Road—A short way east of Dubois, Trail Lake Road heads south into the Wind River Mountains and past three jewel-like lakes. Look for petroglyphs on the large boulders along the way. At the end of the road, hike 3 miles to stunning Lake Louise. Ashton to Victor, Idaho—This delightful rural road undulates over the rolling hills of eastern Idaho through farmlands, the ever-present Teton Range looming magnificently in the distance.Best time to enjoy it is in late afternoon, heading toward the mountains.

Look Up at the Stars Now that night has fallen, don’t just hit the sack. Make sure you go out and look up! If you’re a city dweller, this is an experience you shouldn’t miss. The Milky Way sweeps across the clear western sky in a blaze of light and confirms the existence of real stars and astronomical delights. — Mountain Country Adventure Guide

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by Paul Bruun

hy was it difficult to get people to talk about summer or even early season fishing this year? Perhaps because addictive doses of powder snow kept distracting skiers and snowmobilers. The white stuff continued falling even after most regular ski-area seasons ended. This final flourish at winter’s end has regional anglers smiling throughout most of Wyoming, Montana, and Idaho. The late snow surge and a moderately wet spring will keep rivers, lakes, and reservoirs comfortably full, thus indicating a favorable 2009 fishing season. Just as in 2008, those who took to the open rivers early this year were rewarded with excellent stream results. Jackson, Cody, Eastern Idaho and Dubois areas attract casting addicts as soon as the milder periods of February and March arrive. The extra snowpacks, though, can mean slightly longer lasting runoffs and later-thannormal lake ice-offs. Check before embarking on a backcountry trip to higher altitudes earlier than late June, to insure lake and river accesses are ready and to avoid the disappointment of greeting a frozen trail, lake, or a river in runoff. Many superb trout rivers lie within an easy day’s drive of northwest Wyoming. It is possible to base yourself in the Jackson, Cody, West Yellowstone or similar areas and explore and fish a variety of locations on day trips. River and stream levels vary because drainage runoff timetables differ. Higher-altitude lakes often are not free of ice until sometime in mid June while lower-level and larger reservoirs where the wind aids in thawing might be ice-free in mid to late May. Targeting lakes during early river runoff periods is a practical plan for anglers to consider. Schedule hikes, backpacking, and pack trips accordingly. National Park Access

The dates of fishing seasons on various waters in states surrounding Yellowstone National Park vary slightly. A majority of the waters are fishable by Memorial Day weekend.Yellowstone Park requires purchase of a fishing permit, available from visitor stations. Yellowstone as well as Grand Teton National Park also require the purchase of a boat permit (valid in both parks) not only for sail and powerboats but also for float tubes and pontoon boats.Yellowstone entrances and ranger stations sell fishing permits and boat permits. Grand Teton boat permits are available at the Moose Visitor Center and a Crystal clear water makes spotting and casting to wary trout a visual treat.

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All photos by Wade McKoy or Bob Woodall

FISHING

Greater Yellowstone’s waters provide the best angling in the world


Clear skies and water mark Snake River angling.

Wyoming fishing license is necessary in Grand Teton.

Trout-harvest Concepts Trout seasons on Wyoming’s Snake and South Fork of the Snake in Idaho now include year-round fishing. The trout-harvest season in Wyoming runs from April 1 through October 31 for cutthroat trout. Catch-andrelease cutthroat fishing is permitted between November 1 until March 31. Idaho biologists have implemented an annual catchand-release regulation on all cutthroat trout in the South Fork of the Snake as well as a special limit on brown trout. This is an effort to protect native cutthroat strains from growing rainbow trout intrusion and potential hybridization. Idaho regulations encourage unlimited and yearround harvest of rainbows to protect cutthroat spawning, especially on the upper South Fork. The concept is not without controversy.Some anglers and outfitters prefer to release the rainbows they capture while others may elect to keep a few.

A large selection of flies is essential.

ters to its own subspecies—a fine-spotted cutthroat trout —and is also Wyoming’s largest Blue Ribbon River and a popular major attraction fished by most anglers. Easily accessible lakes like Jackson, Jenny, Leigh, and Grassy are usually ice-free by mid- to late May and fish well from shore until the warmer days of July arrive.Deepwater trolling becomes popular until mid- to late September, when fish will again be found in shallower water. Lake trout or mackinaw that can reach 50 pounds, as well as cutthroat trout, thrive in these deep lakes. Lewis and Shoshone lakes inside the South Entrance of Yellowstone are excellent lake and brown trout fisheries that anglers can access any time,from the end of May (depending

Be Prepared

Be Aware of Aquatic Nuisance Species

Visitors focused on fishing should also be aware of storms,insects,and bears.High-elevation weather conditions change rapidly. A sharp drop in temperature accompanies fast-moving mountain storms that dispense chilling winds and possible combinations of rain, hail, or snow. For insurance pack an extra fleece jacket or insulated vest to accompany rainwear. Graphite rods attract lightning. Cease casting during thunderstorms! Biting insects are especially present in irrigated ranch lands and locales that harbor standing snowmelt during the early season. Full-coverage clothing and repellent are helpful.A currently dated aerosol pepper-spray dispenser should be handy during fishing/hiking/camping in bear country (just about everywhere). Remember that bears like to fish, too.

Regional Fishing Destinations JACKSON HOLE

In addition to its own excellent fisheries,great angling destinations surround Jackson. Many visitors base in Jackson and make day-fishing trips outside the valley.Portions of rivers like the Hoback, Salt, and Greys are open year-round. After hard work and inspiration by the late U.S. Senator Craig Thomas of Wyoming, his legacy will endure because Congress decreed that many miles of the Snake River and its headwaters receive Wild and Scenic River status early in 2009. The Snake is world headquarFishermen like dories for their maneuverability. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

Snake River cutthroat trout require cold water.

on weather/ice off) through the end of October. Once the Snake clears, the water is high and swift throughout the summer until mid-September. A steep gradient makes wading challenging, so the Snake is best fished by floating. The native cutthroat is exceptionally enthusiastic about dry flies and also chases streamers, nymphs, and spinning lures. Grasshopper fly fishing in August and September is a cherished part of the Snake’s seasonal anthology. Other favorite Jackson rivers more suited to wading are the Hoback, Gros Ventre, and Buffalo, as well as Flat, Cottonwood, and Pacific creeks. The Hoback provides a giant stonefly hatch in early July.After it clears in July, the

The“It can’t happen here”mentality that has been the motto of remote western natural resource managers is over. Devastating effects of exotic mussels, grasses,snails,algae,diseases,fish,plants,and reptiles on our natural resources becomes better documented every day. Biohazard threats from quagga mussels that infected the Great Lakes from foreign cargo ship ballast water are imminent to the Greater Yellowstone Area. These ruinous intruders pave lake bottoms and eradicate native species by filtering all of the life-giving plankton from the water. Quaggas have already been documented in nearby states of Arizona, Colorado, and Utah. State and federal wildlife managers are playing catch-up to educate our nation of mobile recreational users and provide adequate cleaning stations for nuisance species transporters such as boats, trailers, rafts, kayaks, and canoes. Wading boots, shoes, sandals, fishing tackle, and other items such as anchors, bait wells, and engine-cooling systems must be examined, cleaned, and dried before moving to a new water course. We implore you to please do your personal best by becoming better informed and practice methods to stop the transfer and accidental importation of aquatic nuisance species to this great recreational area.

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excellent mayfly and caddis hatches thrive until hopper fishing takes over in August.By mid-September,spawning fish from downstream in Hebgen Lake begin to migrate into the park and provide excitement until park fishing closes in early November. Hebgen Lake and its various arms offer some of the area’s finest dry-fly fishing beginning in mid-July.During the morning calm, trout locally termed “gulpers” cruise between surface blankets of tiny“Trico”mayflies, sipping constantly.A little later,the Tricos are joined by larger Callibaetis mayflies (speckled spinners) as the trout party hits high gear. The Yellowstone River inside the park (with a few tributary exceptions) traditionally opens on July 15 to a flourish of caddis insect action. This is a truly superb fishery for large Yellowstone-strain cutthroat that are willing risers for a variety of fly imitations. The river provides an exceptional range of catch-and-release fishing opportunities. Numerous insect types are present and enjoyable to watch as the daily trout menu constantly changes. Yellowstone Lake offers a fine opportunity to pursue its native cutthroat not only from boats and float tubes but from the bank as well. Spin and fly fishermen enjoy success from many beaches and shores along adjacent park roads and parking areas.

Nothing tops the excitement of the strike.

Buffalo fishes well into late September. Flat Creek in the National Elk Refuge is a challenging fly-fishing-only spring creek-like stream that opens on August 1. An extensive section of this stream meanders through Jackson.

PINEDALE

CODY

DUBOIS, WYOMING

Nestled along the Wind River in what is known as Fremont County’s “banana belt,” the community of Dubois offers a variety of small and large stream and lake fishing beginning right downtown. The Wind River is a yearround trout fishery known for browns that attain braggin’ lengths. Small-stream enthusiasts will love the scrappy cutthroats in the Wiggins Fork not too far up the Horse Creek Road from Dubois and then a short ride on County Road 506. Also off the Horse Creek Road is Bog Lake, where both rainbow trout and arctic grayling reside. In the historic Union Pass area,anglers can pursue fine spotted Snake River cutthroat in Lake of the Woods and also experience Little Warm Springs Creek. Pelham Lake is

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Can you find the fly?

Fishermen prize their “secret” spots.

usually ice free by mid-June and is west of Dubois off Warm Springs Road and is known for trophy-size Yellowstone cutthroat.Contact the local tackle store for exact directions to these interesting area fisheries.

All photos by Wade McKoy or Bob Woodall

This East Yellowstone Entrance community named for the famous Wild West personality offers a variety of lake, reservoir, and stream fishing. Cody anglers enjoy numerous insect hatches emerging from the North Fork of the Shoshone. This popular river creates the productive Buffalo Bill Reservoir and offers rainbows, cutthroats, and browns. Lake trout are also abundant in Buffalo Bill. Be sure to note Wyoming G&F regs.for April 1-July 1 spawning closure on portions of river and reservoir. For both rugged beauty and excellent fishing, Wyoming’s first federally proclaimed Wild & Scenic River, the Clark’s Fork of the Yellowstone, is a short drive from Cody. Located within easy hiking access to the rugged Beartooth Highway (U.S. 212) are numerous wilderness fishing lakes.Get local fly shop recommendations to a variety of high lakes,where grayling,rainbow,cutthroat and brook trout are available to fly and spin fishermen after late June. These lakes are excellent float-tube waters. East and West Newton Lakes, a few minutes’ drive outside Cody, are accessible trout opportunities as are Hogan and Luce Reservoirs, where a variety of fishing techniques may be employed. The Lower Shoshone River right through Cody is an excellent winter, spring, and late-summer fly fishery.

This Old West ranching community lies 75 miles south of Jackson Hole.Situated adjacent to the Wind River Range and squarely along the historic Oregon Trail, this portion of Sublette County offers a variety of west-slope hiking and horse-packing trail entrances to the splendid

WEST YELLOWSTONE

Surrounding the West Entrance to Yellowstone National Park,this area is the jumping-off point to many legendary Western rivers, including the Madison, Henry’s Fork, Yellowstone, Firehole, Gallatin, and more. The eagerly anticipated and widely acclaimed salmon fly hatch on the Lower Madison begins in late June and peaks around the Fourth of July. The Firehole, America’s most unusual trout river, is fed by Yellowstone’s great geysers,fumaroles,and thermal springs.A similar resident rainbow and brown trout population also flourishes in the Madison in the park where

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Quickly landing and releasing trout helps ensure their survival.


Wind River Range and its endless trout-filled lake collection. The Green and the New Fork rivers begin here and flow south, where they ultimately unite near “Wyoming’s Icebox,” Big Piney, currently in the throes of an energyexploration boom.

The Wyoming Game & Fish Department continues reintroduction of once-native cutthroat subspecies to many Pinedale, Daniel, and Big Piney tributary streams as well as the Green itself.

A special angling treat is found in Meadow Lake below Pinedale in the Wind River foothills near Boulder. Arctic grayling is an unusual trout-like fish that wears an extremely large dorsal fin highlighted with delicate red/purple spotting. Grayling willingly sip small flies and tiny spinning lures.Also vehicle-accessible are Soda and Willow lakes, which provide excellent float-tube and smallboat angling opportunities.

who enjoy challenging its selective rainbows. The South Fork, which begins in Wyoming and then flows into Idaho above Palisades Reservoir, is the country’s largest native-cutthroat fishery. Big browns swim there too. Despite being such a sizable river, anglers frequently need delicate fishing skills to fool its abundant fish.Both rivers have local outfitters and fly shops or may be accessed by Jackson Hole outfitters.

SOUTHEASTERN IDAHO

Paul Bruun has edited several newspapers during his career, and writes the weekly “Outdoors” column in the Jackson Hole News&Guide and contributes to outdoor magazines. He operates his own fly-fishing float-trip service,founded the South Fork Skiff drift boat company, and served 12 years on the Jackson Town Council during his 36 years in Jackson.

Giant stoneflies and other exceptional western aquatic insect hatches historically highlight fishing experiences on the Henry’s and South Fork of the Snake River. Fed by Big Spring and Henry’s Lake Outlet,the Henry’s Fork near Last Chance, Idaho, is renowned for its salmon fly hatch, which begins around Memorial Day. This river’s prolific insect hatches attract trout lovers from all over the world

High prairie subtly camouflages exceptional fishing for browns and rainbows in both the Green and smaller New Fork.Flowing from the Green River Lakes, the upper Green features extensive public access areas and campgrounds. Upstream from the Warren Bridge on U.S. 189/191, under which the Green flows, are a dozen BLM access areas that offer fine wade fishing. Downstream mostly private land surrounds the Green but a few Game and Fish public access points dot the river.Float fishing is popular on both rivers beginning in early July when they clear. Check local shops for current access information. The Wyoming Game & Fish Dept. continues reintroduction of once-native cutthroat subspecies to many Pinedale, Daniel, and Big Piney tributary streams as well as the Green itself.

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Visit our website for updated reports and conditions

In Teton Village Next to the Alpenhof

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M O U N T A I N

O

by Lauren M. Whaley

ur driver chatted cheerily to his white school bus full of nervous, sleepy-eyed rafters en route to a morning adventure of splashing and squealing.“Stay up late, high stepping to that good old cowboy music?” he asked. Meeting characters like him, the office staff, and professional guides from outfitters around Jackson Hole is just one of many reasons that rafting in the Greater Yellowstone region is a summer vacation must-do. They are unique personalities with one common denominator: they are all drawn to the mountain lifestyle. The eight-mile white-water stretch of the Snake River just south of the town of Jackson may offer the finest oneday introduction to rapids in the country. Visitors have many choices for experiencing the rapids, ranging from a self-guided sit-on-top kayak to a sit-back-and-relax fully guided ride. The mist was rising from the valley as we gathered on a July morning for our rafting trip. It was cold. “All aboard,” the boatman called to the parking lot. We piled on—three girls from Baltimore, a family from Texas, an older couple from Syracuse, and several singles from suburbs around the country. I was the only local but, like the rest of the group, a newbie to rafting the Snake River. The head guide doled out paddles.I claimed front left, which means I controlled the tempo for the row of paddlers behind me … and got the wettest. After emerging safe and adrenaline-pumped from the first rapid,I forgot the morning grogginess and started to

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The Snake River’s Lunch Counter is one of the major rapids that never fails to splash and thrill.

crave the roar of white water around each bend that promised another stomach-dropping, hard-paddling, wet ride. I wanted more. On the flatter sections in between rapids,we glimpsed bald eagles above and silent lodgepole pines holding post on rocky walls. At those moments, and those just before plunging my paddle into the next wave, time stood still and I noticed the sun sparkle, the branches above quiver, the clouds blow by. And, at each rock or turn, there was a story. “That there is called Vice President Rock,” the guide said.“And that over there is called Bear Cave. Yep, a napping cowboy had to wrestled a woke-up bear in that rock about a hundred years ago.” Some of the stories seemed a bit far-fetched, like the one about the car on the river bottom, but before we had time to turn around and question our guide, he’d shout “Left Forward” and I’d plunge my paddle into a rolling wave. The splash-and-squeal trips may sound burly, but they’re totally family friendly. If my younger sister had been tall enough when she’d visited, I would have taken her. For those who don’t want the responsibility of paddling, but still want the experience, the middle seats are for you. Just hold on and enjoy the ride. And don’t forget to smile at Big Kahuna Rapid. Photographers are shooting frames just as the raft enters the giant frothing hole at the end. Once you’re back in town

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you can purchase the photos. Don’t want to get wet and wild? Try a scenic trip. This float often starts in Grand Teton National Park on a sparkly bit of the Snake River winding below the Teton Range.On this mellow float,you’ll sunbathe,eat,and enjoy the quiet while looking out for some of the region’s famous fauna. Moose, elk, deer, bison, pronghorn antelope, black and—sometimes—even grizzly bear can all be seen along the shore. The relaxing upper stretch of braided, meandering water will take you past what feels like vast wilderness. Keep your eyes and ears open,as your guide will share stories of the valley’s history,point out blooming wildflowers, and detail the geology of some of the youngest mountains in our country, all while dense spruce and lodgepole forests give way to cottonwoods and aspens.You may even spot a river otter or beaver poking its head out of the Snake to watch you. For the all-day adventurers, some outfitters offer a float/white-water combo, where the morning is spent lolling down the upper portion of the Snake and the afternoon is spent yelping down rapids.Shuttle service,lifejackets, and paddles are also included, and you’ll often find your driver waiting at the end passing out cold sandwiches to drenched, smiling customers. Until Lauren M.Whaley finds a meaningful,structured, day job, she'll continue her freelance career while seeking adventure and dancing in Jackson Hole and beyond.

Wade McKoy / Wilderness Ventures (canoes); Bob Woodall (whitewater)

RAFTING

Alpine white-water and scenic float trips top vacation adventures


WESTERN WATERWAYS Moonrise at sunset on Shoshone Lake in Yellowstone mesmerizes these lucky canoeists.

Grand Teton National Park Boating is restricted to non-motorized craft,except on Jackson and Jenny lakes,where powerboats are allowed. But leave the jet skis home! Launches along the Snake River access a variety of waters, some dangerous. Life preservers and boat permits are required. Info: (307) 739-3399.Canoes,pontoon boats,and small powerboats can be rented at Signal Mountain or Colter Bay marinas on Jackson Lake. Boaters will have to register their craft at the Moose Visitors’ Center, where more information is available in the country’s newest and coolest visitors’ center. Naturally, a host of floating, fishing, kayaking, canoeing, sailboating, and scenic concessionaires operate by permit within the park, all researched by going online at www.nps.gov/grte.

Bridger-Teton National Forest Class III and IV white water on the Snake River begins at West Table and runs eight miles through the Snake River Canyon. Self-registration, while not required, is available at West Table. Scenic float waters that also hold fish include the South Fork of the Snake. On the Web: www.snakeriverfund.org. Info: (307) 734-6773. Other rivers in the area offer everything from serene scenery to challenging rapids. On the Web: www.fs.fed.us/r4/btnf. Everything you wanted to know about recreating on regional and national federal land.Or call (307) 739-5500 for information on running the Buffalo Fork, Gros Ventre, Hoback, or Greys rivers. Other lakes in the area: Slide Lake, east of Jackson (windsurfing, sailboats, paddle craft); Palisades Reservoir, at Alpine Junction (power and sailboats).

Yellowstone National Park

windsurfers are allowed on Yellowstone and Lewis lakes, but only paddle boats on Shoshone Lake. Again, leave the jet skis home! All other rivers and lakes are closed to boaters.Life preservers and permits are required.Boats can be rented at Bridge Bay Marina. Online: www.nps.gov/yell. Info: (307) 344-7381.

West of Yellowstone West of the park, the Madison River provides white water from Ennis Reservoir through Bear Trap Canyon and idyllic floating to its confluence with the Missouri River. Info: (406) 683-8000.

Green River & Pinedale Area The Green River between Pinedale and Big Piney is primarily utilized for fishing.For information, go to www.blm.gov/wy and pull up a cool map of every BLM field office and district in the state. Just point and click. The short story: Fremont (skads of opportunities and amenities here) and Half Moon lakes, near Pinedale, allow paddle craft and power and sailboats; and Green River Lakes, north of Cora, allow paddle craft only.

Cody & the North Fork In Cody, river runners can catch Class III rapids on the North Fork of the Shoshone River from Yellowstone Park to the reservoir,or combine placid water with Class IV rapids on the main Shoshone from the reservoir to just past town.River info: www.blm.gov/wy is the place to start. For hiking and camping info go to www.fs.fed.us/r2/shoshone/districts/windriver.htm or call (307) 527-6921. Water skiing,fishing,and windsurfing are enjoyed on the Buffalo Bill Reservoir,west of Cody. Info: (307) 587-9227 or online at www.bbdvc.com.

In Yellowstone National Park, motorboats, canoes, rowboats, kayaks, sailboats, and

—Mountain Country Adventure Guide

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Your Adventure Starts Here!

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M O U N T A I N

BIKING

Trail systems flourish with partnership between bike community and forest service

Mountain bikers routinely climb into the high country.

Topping out on Ferrin’s Trail.

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All photos by Wade McKoy

T

by Chris Peck he Greater Snow King Area (GSKA) and tures the essence of what GSKA is striving for Teton Pass Area (TPA) trail systems are two in the region and appears on trailhead kiosks outdoor gold mines that lure local and visiting and trail guides.Work is guided by a belief in mountain bikers alike.Free to all users,the 100- the importance of connecting people with their public lands, fosplus miles of quality single track are easily One service organization tering joint stewardship in the care of accessed and are conof dedicated local public lands, and tinually being imworking to craft longproved. These trails, mountain bikers, The term solutions to adthough, didn’t just ap- Teton Freedom Riders, dress recreation pear, like some late afternoon August took a critical role in impacts and opportuthundershower. nities. designing and building Initial GSKA efforts For example, the all the downhill-specific focused on reconstructGreater Snow King ing and repairing existArea has seen big im- mountain bike trails in provements over the the TPA. ing trails such as Sink past eight years thanks or Swim, Putt-putt, West Game, and Josie’s to a partnership between Friends of Pathways (FOP) and the Ridge, and improving trailhead signing. This United States Forest Service (USFS), grant work took three years and thousands of hours money from Wyoming State Trails and Teton of labor (listen up, volunteers!) to bring trails Conservation District, and, perhaps most im- and trailheads up to a quality standard. Once portantly, through volunteer labor totaling most of the trail system was sustainable,the fun thousands of hours from individuals and serv- of adding connections began. These trail connections were the first new ice organizations. Its mission statement,“Sustainable Trails, ones to be built on the Bridger-Teton National Respect for People, Respect for Land” cap- Forest (BTNF) in decades. Countless hours of


planning each new trail were followed by weeks of design and layout work. The result was over four miles of new trail,including the Ferrin’s Trail, a major extension on the popular Putt-putt Trail, and a new trail in lower Cache Creek that reduces congestion on the first section of road. Through all of these projects, the community has worked hard to make this a world-class trail system. An increasing amount of funds and labor for the rebuilding of the GSKA trails is coming through donations from locals. Mapping, trail signs, kiosks, trail guides, stream-bank restoration, and installation of mutt-mitt stations have all benefited from community involvement. The Bridger-Teton National Forest provides the guidance, but it’s the community that builds and maintains these trail systems. Success in the Greater Snow King Area trail system actually inspired more efforts elsewhere in the valley. As Wyoming State Trails provided additional funding—and more volunteers and groups came to the table—work began on the Teton Pass Area (TPA) adjacent to Wilson. This undertaking proved to be even more challenging than the GSKA system. Teton Pass trails have a long history of horseback and hiking use. Two decades ago, mountain bikes rode onto the scene. The resulting brew of conflict, near collisions, illegal trails, and unhappy recreationists along the paths demanded a change in the menu.The Forest Service organized public meetings to help craft a trailsystem plan. And, unlike with the GSKA system, some separate-use trails were determined to be essential to the overall success of the TPA system. The network includes a mix of mountain bike trails with technical features, specific horse and hiking trails, and many multi-use trails. One service organization of dedicated local mountain

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The Greater Snow King Area trail system provides many miles of single-track riding.

bikers, The Teton Freedom Riders, took a critical role in designing and building all the downhill-specific mountain bike trails in the TPA. These descents include log drops, dirt jumps, and rock rides, and, for more conservative riders, easy ways around those experts-only features. The Teton Freedom Riders continue logging thousands of hours each summer buffing out the moun-

tain bike trails in the TPA and GSKA. Another group of volunteers, The Order of the Arrow, Boy Scouts of America (BSA), helped trim the TPA construction timetable drastically last summer, building nearly 10 miles of new single track in five days! The BSA selected the BTNF as its service project and committed 650 trail workers for one week in July 2008. This BTNF-BSA partnership became a top priority in the Jackson Ranger District. The USFS and FOP hired trail designers and a layout crew, who placed 15,000 pin flags into the still-snowy ground. After the USFS sawyers cut the trail corridors and additional fundraising filled the money gaps, the project was ready for the Boy Scouts’ arrival. In perhaps the most amazing trail-building tour de force ever witnessed, the five-mile-long Arrow Trail was completed in only three days! By the week’s end,the moredifficult-to-build, seven-mile Ridge Trail was half done, too.Upon completion,it will be the crown jewel of the TPA trail system. These projects alone add over $650,000 dollars of net worth to the forest. When the public enjoys these trails, those of us who put our hearts and souls into it feel the effort truly worthwhile. As work continues on these systems, good will and volunteers are still needed. For more information, please call 307-739-5428. Trail maps are available on the Friends of Pathways website. Information can also be obtained from any local bike shop. Chris Peck worked for the USFS/FOP as GSKA/TPA Trails Director from 2003-2008. He is currently living in New Zealand.

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Community Pathways

Active transportation on a roll and a stroll in Jackson Hole

10 miles of continuous paved pathways are well separated With the completion of from the highways and afford the first section of the Grand users gentle grades and sceTeton Pathways System, a new nic views. era of visitor access in Jackson Riders seeking more Hole is about to begin. An 8challenge should head west mile pathway now connects from Wilson onto the MillenMoose and Jenny Lake visitor nium Trail—near the Stagehubs,the first of a planned 41coach Bar—and climb the mile system. The pathway Old Pass Road on a demandstarts in Moose at the Craig ing 5-mile trip up to the Thomas Discovery Visitor 8,431’ summit of Teton Pass. Center and at Dornan’s in The Old Pass Road was in use Moose. Visitors will pass from the early 1900s until through a special “honor sys1970, and is a classic switchtem” pathway gate at the back ascent of a high-mounMoose park entry, and then tain pass like the famous bicyclists and hikers can travel climbs of the Alps. along the Teton Park road corSouth of Jackson, pathYou’ll see an ridor on a separate, 10-foot ways connect to Game Creek eclectic collection wide paved pathway all the along the splendid Paul Merof bikes on the trails way to the Jenny Lake Store ritt and Von Gontard trails, or maybe even meet and Ranger office. and extend farther south via The Grand Teton pathway the Henry’s Trail to Horse Jackson’s Mayor Mark project was made possible Creek. These paths provide Barron or County with federal funds dedicated a great connection to the Commissioner Ben Ellis by the U.S. Congress. United popular Cache-Game mounStates Senator John Barrasso tain bike loop—riders can heading to their next and the late Senator Craig skip the shuttle and ride the meeting via their Thomas were both great path back to town. Maps are trusty bicycles. champions for the pathway, available at local bike and which will set a new standard sports shops. for safe and accessible cycling As the Gold Award shows, and walking in a major nacycling and hoofing it around tional park. the Town of Jackson and Grand Teton National Teton County is an increasPark Superintendent Mary ingly viable option for trips Gibson Scott and the Federal by locals and tourists alike. Lands Highway engineers You’ll see an eclectic collecmanaged the project well: the tion of bikes on the trails or $4.4 million project was commaybe even meet Jackson’s pleted a season early and Mayor Mark Barron or within its budget. The highCounty Commissioner Ben quality construction by H-K Ellis heading to their next Contractors ensures that the meeting via their trusty bicypathway will be a long-lasting cles. Using non-motorized asset for the park and visitors. Teton County’s Community Pathways system affords cyclists safe biking off highways. transportation is becoming a Word is getting out about the great cycling here,too. part of the community fabric. Bikes are also being emGrand Teton National Park officials are still completing final details before allowing visitors to start cy- The League of American Bicyclists recently recognized ployed to help meet the town and county’s ‘10 x 10 cling the pathway,but they do expect to informally open Jackson Hole as a “Gold Bicycle Friendly Community,” campaign’ to reducing its carbon footprint and energy the trail in May or early June. Call first to be sure, 307- one of only nine communities in the country to receive usage 10% by 2010. 739-3399 at the Craig Thomas Visitor Center. The Park a Gold award.The award recognized the tremendous acThere is great hope for a connected regional pathplans an official grand-opening celebration sometime complishment of the new pathway in Grand Teton, as way system in the near future as Jackson Hole, Grand well as major enhancements to Teton Pass mountain Teton, and Teton Valley all work to complete their pathlater this summer. The new Grand Teton path is the latest addition to an bike and hiking trails.Also noted were the incredible vol- ways. These non-motorized routes provide fun and susactive pathway construction program that is transform- unteer efforts of 1,000 Order of the Arrow Boy Scouts, tainable ways to travel throughout the Tetons. ing Jackson Hole into a legitimate world-class bicycle- who built miles of new trails on Teton Pass last summer. Tim Young is the executive Director of Friends of For new visitors to Jackson Hole, one of the most touring destination.The valley now boasts over 40 miles Pathways, the local nonprofit advocacy group supof high-quality paved pathways,and leaders are focusing popular pathways connects historic Wilson at the base porting pathways, complete streets, and great trails in on connecting the remaining missing sections and en- of Teton Pass with the Aspens, Teton Village, and Jackson Hole and the region. Grand Teton National Park’s Granite Creek entry. The hancing the signage and information along the tails.

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All photos by Wade McKoy

by Tim Young


M O U N T A I N

HIKING

Schoolroom Glacier—off the beaten path

Marshlands walkway near Phelps Lake w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

The best avenue to sparkling lakes, stunning vistas, and wildlife

by Lora Bodmer love to walk,so for me,trails provide the best avenues and aurally, can not only embellish your experience with to the valley’s sparkling lakes, stunning vistas, and the sounds of nature but might also save you from a wildlife. And while the prospects of walking around the mountain lion attack, a marauding moose, or a collision jagged peaks of the Tetons can be daunting,many of these with a mountain biker. hikes are anything but. Now, enough of the rules already! Let’s get on the In choosing the best trail for your day and group,keep trails. a few things in mind. Day hikes in this area range from 1 Strolls in the Forest to 21 miles and trailheads sit at upwards of 6,200 feet.Try (4 miles or less) not to bite off more than your group can chew. Jackson’s Getting out to stretch your legs is easy in the Cache Search and Rescue team is already overworked and un- Creek area on the east side of Jackson. The Hagen Trail is derfunded. an undemanding hike, and portions of it run parallel to Dogs aren’t allowed on hiking trails in Grand Teton the creek. Look out, though: some sections are also popand Yellowstone national parks, but trails in the national ular with mountain bikers.And the trail system is extenforests surrounding Jackson Hole do allow them. To en- sive, so check out the kiosk at the trailhead to weigh your sure that they continue to be welcomed by fellow trail options and find that quiet walk along the creek. users and land stewards, please keep dogs on leash or Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) offers some specunder voice control,diligently clean up after them,and re- tacular trails that reach a lake or overlook in less than four strain them around wildlife. miles.The Granite Canyon access begins on the south end Although hiking seems fairly straightforward, some of the park near Teton Village.A quick drive from the villoose guidelines can help everyone maximize their en- lage lands hikers on a beautiful wooded trail where joyment of popular paths. Good trail etiquette requires wildlife often gathers in the cool shade along the creek in yielding to hikers going uphill and to horseback riders. Granite Canyon. Staying on trails, rather than taking shortcuts, prevents A new series of trails recently opened to the public in erosion and reduces our impact on the environment and the LSR Preserve, named after Laurance S. Rockefeller, wildlife. Being aware of your surroundings, both visually who orchestrated the donation of an additional 1,106

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Snow often lingers into summer on the highest alpine meadows.

acres to the park before he passed away in 2004. Find more information about the area at the new Preserve Center, on the winding country lane known as the MooseWilson Road. These relatively easy trails lead from the preserve to Phelps Lake and the Tetons. Taggart Lake has a perfect loop trail, which makes it a perennial favorite. The well-maintained route skirts through the glacial moraines at the base of the Teton Cathedral Group. At the halfway point, hikers reach Taggart Lake, an ideal spot for gazing up at the magnificent peaks. Jenny Lake has been rated by some as the most beautiful place in America. See it up close by walking along its shores to Hidden Falls, or simply pay a modest fee and take the boat shuttle across. From the boat dock, a short hike to Hidden Falls and Inspiration Point—a super highway of families and even a few high-heeled stumblers during the height of summer—affords countless photo ops. To add distance and get away from the crowds, venture from Inspiration Point into Cascade Canyon as far as your time allows. Just north of Jenny Lake a series of fairly flat trails wrap around String and Leigh lakes.Get a taste of the wetlands, sand beaches,and mountain peaks in a walk under four miles.String Lake is a popular swimming area due to its shallow, warmer waters.“Warm,” however, is a relative term: many travelers might not use it to describe any of the snow-fed lakes or ponds residing at 6,300 feet.

and a lake destination just begging for a picnic. Park at the Phillips Canyon trailhead and start walking along the well-marked trail system. A little higher up at the top of the pass, a hiking trail heads south along the ridge. Enjoy ample wildflowers and panoramic views, with the ability to turn around at any point. Opposite Teton Pass, on the east side of Jackson Hole in the Gros Ventre mountain range, Goodwin Lake awaits. A three-mile hike from the trailhead reveals the peaceful, wooded lake. Sometimes its placid waters teem with small brook trout. Stop here or, if you are feeling hardy, charge past the lake another mile-and-a-half to the top of Jackson Peak.

In GTNP,combine the shorter Taggart Loop Trail with the Bradley Lake Trail to add a few more miles and an extra lake to the adventure. Head out to Bradley and then cut over the hill to hike the switchbacks down to Taggart for a trip of just over five miles. A slightly longer, but flatter, alternative is the Jenny Lake Loop. The almost eight-mile hike follows the circumference of Jenny Lake, with stunning views up Cascade Canyon. Crowds will be found around the section from the south-lake parking area to the boat dock, but are sparse the rest of the way. Shave off some of the mileage by hopping on the Jenny Lake boat, which departs from the south-lake parking area throughout the day.

Half- to Whole-day Excursions (4 to 9 miles)

While the next two hikes aren’t much longer than those previously described, they start on Teton Pass around 2,000 feet above the valley floor, making every mile a bit more strenuous.When the crowds head for the park in mid-summer, the Ski Lake Trail remains peaceful. The almost five-mile round-trip provides valley views

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Like turquoise gems, a profusion of bone-cold alpine lakes are set among the mountains.

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Full-day Hikes (over 10 miles)

For the hardiest crews,those ready to get an early start and go for it,here are some full-day adventures.The Jackson Hole Aerial Tram provides a high-altitude head start to several long hikes, but most of the well-marked hikes over 10 miles originate in GTNP. The hike to Holly Lake starts by skirting String Lake before heading up Paintbrush Canyon. It climbs over 2,500 feet to a Shangri-La of wildflowers and sparkling water. The 12-mile-plus trek demands a hearty picnic lunch and plenty of snacks and water. The Lupine Meadows parking area is the starting

Book Reviews There are hundreds of hiking opportunities in Jackson Hole.Local outdoor and bookstores provide volumes of trekking information to keep you busy for a few days—or a lifetime— in the Tetons. While most of the books employ Grand Teton in the title, all but one contain hikes that go beyond the national park and into Jackson and the surrounding mountains.

Jackson Hole Hikes by Rebecca Woods, $16.95 Woods’ three decades in Jackson Hole help to build what would be best described as an encyclopedia of local trails. With well over 100 hikes spread across surrounding Jackson Hole and the park, this book could keep even the most ambitious local high-stepping for years. In addition to detailed trail information, Jackson Hole Hikes features basic wildlife and plant information and local history.

Day Hikes in Grand Teton by Robert Stone, $11.95 When I first moved to Jackson Hole, I didn’t have a clue where to start or friends to show the way. What I did have was Stone’s book of day hikes. During the year, I worked my way through almost every one of his 72 recommendations, never getting lost. It is basic, but provides just what a hiker needs: maps, directions, and distances in a fairly compact package.

Grand Teton Short Hikes by Carl Schreier, $3.95 In addition to a much more extensive volume on hiking the Tetons, Schreier publishes a pocketsize, big-value version filled with shorter hikes. It has a small sampling of half- to whole-day hikes in the park and around Jackson Hole.

A Falcon Guide: Best Easy Day Hikes Grand Teton by Bill Schneider, $7.95 If your hiking will be contained within the national park,this pocketsize,straightforward book is a solid choice. It is in the familiar Falcon Guide format and includes a limited selection of hikes,but still more than anyone could cover in a week.

Day Hikes and Short Walks of Grand Teton National Park

All photos by Wade McKoy

At 13,770 feet, the Grand Teton looms large.

point for a few longer hikes with some serious vertical. Surprise and Amphitheater lakes sit high on the Teton Range at the foot of some classic rock-climbing routes.At one point on the series of switchbacks leading up from the parking area, there is the option to turn off toward Garnet Canyon. The mouth of the canyon hosts a field of boulders, but climbing through them is worth it for the peaceful meadow resting at the base of the Middle and Grand Tetons.Black Bears are very common on this route, so remember to make noise to let them know you’re there. Give all wild animals a comfortable distance and try not to startle them. One of the most challenging, yet rewarding, hikes leads up Paintbrush Canyon, over the often snow-laden Paintbrush Divide, down to Lake Solitude, and into Cascade Canyon.The hefty 20-mile loop marches trekkers up 4,000 vertical to the pass and then down through the mellow, creek-side Cascade Canyon Trail.Solitude Lake sits at the halfway point, providing exactly what its name implies. It can be done in one day, but people often opt to get a camping permit and make it a two-day adventure. After scaring away a few friends with the wrong choice in day hikes, Lora Bodmer, owner of Jacksonbased Deep Communications, learned that moderation is key to bringing loved ones back for visits year after year. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

by Charlie Craighead, photos by Henry H. Holdsworth, $4.95 This guide selects the best short hikes and easy walks from the over 250 miles of trails that wind through Grand Teton National Park and includes maps, hiking tips, scenic highlights, and natural history notes of the trails. It works well for those who may only have a day or want to explore several different places over a week.

Best of Grand Teton National Park by Charlie Craighead, photos by Henry H. Holdsworth, $4.95 This guide presents the park’s best natural features, activities, and sights as selected by the experts. From best bets to see moose to the best places to go on a rainy day, this guide features the wildlife, wildflowers, hikes, history, scenic drives, and classic photo spots you don’t want to miss. —Lora Bodmer

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M O U N T A I N

CLIMBING

Rappelling allows climbers to quickly descend extreme pitches.

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All photos by Wade McKoy / Wilderness Ventures

N

by Steve Gardiner o one ever asked me why I played football or baseball. Those are normal enough pursuits for Americans, and they need no explanation. But when I fell in love with climbing, I was asked the question continually. At first I’d stammer,attempting answers.I even tossed off George Mallory’s celebrated “Because it’s there” line, but never really believed it. It just broke the seriousness of the question and covered for my lack of a quick, definitive answer. In fact, when I first heard the question, I never really knew where to start. Climbing is a simple game, but one played out on a complex field with no spectators.Maybe that sums up what concerns the people who ask the question. It is a simple game, because the only rule is to get up the route. No governing committee publishes a rule book with yearly updates.No officials observe the event and reward or penalize participants. No medals or trophies are given, and no one sees the greatest athletic feat of the climbers, except the climber and one or two friends. Yet, it is perhaps these same traits that make climbing appeal to the people who devote time, energy, and money to the sport. After I tried answering the“why”question a few times, I decided I should write an essay explaining my motives. Then, when confronted with the question, I could hand out a copy of my essay, or at least summarize the ideas I had developed. I tried writing it. The result was an ava-

Why do they climb? Musing from mountaineers

Approach hikes in the Tetons are long, spectacular, and sometimes cross glacial remnants.

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lanche of words that ended up as rubble in the valley of the garbage can. I couldn’t get it right and, in the end, no one ever saw the essay. I decided that the answer was bigger than an essay, maybe bigger than me, so I started asking the question myself. I posed the question to some of the best climbers in America and Europe, and each time I asked, “Why do you climb?� I got different and interesting answers. For example, Scott Heywood of Sheridan, Wyoming, said,“You make conscious decisions to take a chance, and when you take that chance you take control of your life, and when you take control of your life it has lots of benefits for you. It’s confronting your fears head on. It’s confronting a lot of human fear, fear of death, fear of falling;

confronting things like laziness, inertia, and being totally responsible for yourself, which is uncommon in our world today, and I think that’s why I like it. It’s immediate gratification. It gives you a sense of self-worth. It may be an illusion, but it’s an important illusion.� While many of the people I talked with discussed the excellent physical training that climbing affords, Chris

Broadway, a ledge on the Grand that ends in the exposed step onto the next ridge pitch.

Bonnington, who climbed Everest and is one of England’s finest climbers, talked about how climbing affects one mentally. He said, “One of the features of climbing is the intensity of concentration it exacts. In its basic form, if you are poised on a rock wall a hundred feet above the ground, all other thoughts and problems are engulfed by the need for absolute concentration. There is no room for anything other than the problem of staying in contact with the rock and negotiating the next few moves. In this respect, climbing offers an escape, or perhaps it would be better to describe it as a relaxation, from everyday worries of human relationships, money, or jobs. This relaxation lasts for longer than just those moments when you are actually climbing and life is in jeopardy.� Some believe that climbing can take people beyond the physical and mental to the philosophical. Jackson Hole’s own Glenn Exum, who died in 2000, once said, “I have loved climbing, and the reason is that if you are up there and having a beautiful day and a few cumulus clouds are sprinkled around and everyone is moving and handling the rope right and the air is clear and you can see forever, well, I think that is really almost an unmatchable experience. It is almost sacred.� For some climbers, like Jim Bridwell of California, climbing is art. “It is like gymnastics, dancing, painting—you have the rock as a canvas and you express your idea in the route. That’s been my attitude towards climbing. It’s a chance to do something new and creative and beautiful. If it is clean, beautiful rock and a line that stands out as pure—good, consistent, hard climbing all the way, good quality moves, consistent in its nature and texture—then it has something to say.� In the end, I guess I have found that the quick, definitive answer I was trying to find so long ago just doesn’t exist. Climbing affects people deeply, passion-

A guide climbs the Golden Staircase pitch on the Grand Teton. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

ately. I think climbers know why they climb while they are doing it, but the real challenge is trying to transform human motivation into words. Why climb mountains? Perhaps there isn’t a good answer, or perhaps there are many good answers. Steve Gardiner teaches high school English and journalism in Billings, Montana, and was named Montana Teacher of the Year in 2008. Why I Climb is one of his four books, and he has written over 550 articles for various newspapers and magazines.

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“One of the features of climbing is the intensity of concentration it exacts. In its basic form, if you are poised on a rock wall a hundred feet above the ground, all other thoughts and problems are engulfed by the need for absolute concentration.�

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Horseback Riding ICONS of the

WEST

Mountains, forests, and streams peacefully embrace horseback riders.

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T

by Bob Woodall

here is west, and there is The West. Not a direction, but a place steeped in history and full of icons and symbols. And the one icon epitomizing the West is the cowboy astride his horse, riding into the sunset. If you’re in search of that connection with the West, why not saddle up and go for a ride? Although loping off into the horizon may not be on your agenda, finding a horse to mount up and ride couldn’t be easier. No matter where one travels, trail rides are available. And there are many ways to indulge oneself. The simplest is a two-hour ride. If that leaves you hankering for more, consider half-day or full-day rides. For the ultimate Western experience, though, sign on for a multi-day pack trip or a full week at a dude ranch. Never been on a horse? “Not a problem,” said Marilyn Dahle of Yellowstone Outfitters and Teton Village Trail Rides. “Seventy-five percent of our riders have never been on a horse; it’s fun to take inexperienced people and see the big smiles on their faces and the satisfaction when they learn to ride.” Yellowstone Outfitters leads riders into the Teton Wilderness, where spectacular views of the Tetons unfold around every bend.

Wilderness areas are only accessible on foot or horseback. So why ride a horse? “The thrill of just being on the back of a horse,” said Dahle “is part of the Western adventure that people are after.” “Agreed,” noted Triangle C Dude Ranch’s Cameron Garnick, whose untimely passing two years ago touched the lives of many in the region. But that’s not all. “You can see much more,” he pointed out, “because you are not having to watch the trail. You can look around at the 360-degree view, enjoy the smell of the sage, the sounds of the forest, listen to streams, and drink in the landscape—and physical limitations can be overcome.” Traveling at 4-5 miles an hour, horses can cover lots of territory, and in a short time riders can be deep into the mountains. Plus, “you are doing it the way it was done by Indians, mountain men, and cowboys,” said Garnick. Now that you’re hankering to hit the trail, what’s next? Well, dress the part. You don’t need to go out and dude yourself up in full cowboy regalia, but a few items will make the ride more enjoyable. Cowboy boots are best, but any closed-toed shoes are fine. Sandals, however,

Bob Wodall -Triangle C Ranch (this page and top facing); Wade McKoy (facing page bottom)

Cowboys know you can lead a horse to water and sometimes it’ll drink.


“You can look around at the 360-degree view, enjoy the smell of the sage, the sounds of the forest, listen to streams, and drink in the landscape—and physical limitations can be overcome.” are not recommended. Long pants and a hat are advisable, and because the weather can change rapidly here in the real West, bring a raincoat. Also on the short list are insect repellant, sunscreen, sunglasses, water bottle, camera, and binoculars. Next, decide how much time you really have for spending in the saddle. Like most outfitters, Yellowstone Outfitters and Teton Village Trail Rides offer two-hour, half-day, and full-day trips. If that’s not enough, they also provide three- and six-day pack trips, as well as Orvis-endorsed fishing trips to the Yellowstone River. And if you want the Western adventure without spending the whole time on a horse, check out the overnight wagon train trips. Spend half of the trip on the wagon and the rest on horseback. Campfire cookouts come complete with a singing cowboy serenading campers by a fire under the star-filled sky. If a couple days in the saddle have not reined in your desire for an Old West vacation, consider a stay at a dude ranch, the ultimate Western experience. In the 1880s the term “dude” was applied to dressed-up city slickers, espe-

Horses can take riders deep into the mountains.

There’s nothing like a night under a full moon with a campfire, music, and good friends.

cially to Easterners vacationing in the West and who affected elaborate “Wild West” getups as paying visitors at a “dude ranch.” While some places call themselves “guest” ranches nowadays, seek out ones that have not dropped the “dude” from their name: those will be the ranches offering the most authentic experience. A proper dude ranch regales its guests with the romance of the West for a full week. Dudes are pampered in a rustic setting with a full plate of activities, including daily trail rides, cookouts, campfires, Western sing-alongs, and rodeos. Ranches tailor their weeks for singles, couples, families, and groups. You’re smack dab in the middle of The West, so take advantage of it! Whether it’s for two hours or a whole week. Saddle up—and happy trails to you!

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  RODE

Snaky Bulls & Snorting Broncs by Joy Ufford

Bull riders are a special breed of cowboy.

It is the most magical moment of the night, when a microphone crackles to life and the inspiring lyrics of our national anthem lift hearts around the arena as many sing along with the words that stir them so deeply every time—“the land of the free and the home of the brave…” Rodeo is so thoroughly American now (despite roots in vaquero and ranching traditions of old California and Mexico) that it’s mandatory to see the star-spangled banner grasped in a rodeo queen’s hand as she tears around the arena on her horse at full gallop, both showing off for appreciative crowds. That’s what rodeo is all about, in a way—showing off. From snaky bulls to snorting broncs, born to buck and born to run; from a glittering rhinestone-studded belt here to some turquoise fringed leather there. It’s about showing off in a good way, because there’s nothing wrong with living to kick higher, run faster, ride longer, rope quicker. The team roping event showcases riding and roping skills. For bull and bronc riders it’s about getting better scores, keeping a tighter handle on their ride. For the bulls through their country-western music about “eight-second worst—behavior. It’s no surprise that people who love to and broncs, it’s about putting on a show trying to launch rides” and “the roar of a Sunday crowd,” and rodeo still rodeo consider it an addiction. has the ability to thrill us. And one thing that never Cody Nite Rodeo cowboys into outer space. When the sparkling gals gallop around on their changes about rodeo is people’s heartfelt desires to be Cody is called the “Rodeo Capital of the World,” and good, even great, at that isn’t stretching things, with talented cowboys and stretched-out horses, something they love. burning turns around girls coming from Peru, Australia, Canada and even Japan The same can be said to test their skills in Stampede Park and vie for big cash three barrels set in sand, of their horses, whether and big buckles. And to have an exciting show every night, it’s about speed and buckin’ broncs or mus- the rough stock has to buck. style. For the more tacicled mounts: that good turn ropers, it’s the quick Stock contractor Maury Tate said that’s what his feeling of doing a job well horses and bulls want to do. He brings 120-130 horses and elegance of a rope sailing holds as true for the ani- 120-150 bulls, which he was raising before getting the through the air to catch mals as it does for the Cody Nite Rodeo contract several years ago. a steer or calf in a heartmen and women who beat or two. “They’re all born to buck,” he said. “It’s what they’re ride them and the rodeo bred to do. It’s what their great-granddaddies and greatMan, woman, or aniclowns who risk life and grandmas were bred to do. A lot of people think they’re mal, it’s a great way to be alive. There’s nothing Kids love the calf scramble, and eagerly chase the limb to entertain the wild, but they’re not. They just don’t get handled much as critter, hoping to capture the ribbon on its tail. crowd. There’s pride at colts. They’re bred to buck and they love to buck.” like it. stake, whether you’re moving on two legs or four. It’s an Rodeo hasn’t changed much over the years except to He raises some bucking colts himself and also buys get better. More money, better horses, meaner bulls, faster excitement and adrenaline rush that keeps every creature from certain breeders. times… Chris LeDoux and Garth Brooks have taught us in that arena on its best—which in many cases is its “It’s a whole industry within itself,” he said. “Some

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Photos: Bob Wodall

Dust puffs underfoot as cowgirls and cowboys, little to large, expectant crowds, and rodeo clowns shuffle their boots and silently clutch hats to chests. The setting sun sends shafts of warm light through the evening air and bathes everyone—rider, roper, racer—in a golden glow and sharpens the silhouettes of waiting horses and swaggering bulls.


people just raise bucking colts.” all the years she’s raced and, more recently, team-roped Tate knows what he’s looking for. “To me the perfect there and at other rodeos, all while helping her family run scenario is when the horse looks really good, bucks really the Mill Iron Ranch south of Jackson. hard and makes a really good ride. The cowboy is not com“The JH Rodeo is a great rodeo,” she said. “We grew peting against the horse; the cowboy is competing with there and learned a lot there. I’ll never quit JH Rodeo. All the horse. You want him to jump out there and kick—the of us here are very lucky to have had it growing up; it gives higher and harder the better.” you that competitive edge.” Bucking bulls are an industry of their own as well, “It’s a thrill,” she said of barrel racing and team roping. with registration programs, futurities, and classics. A cow “I love them both. It’s a speed thing, an adrenaline thing. with good bucking blood can bring $25,000, even $50,000. Both are very addictive.” “If your cow’s bred the right way, her calves can bring Her goal is to make the National Finals Rodeo in Las $2,000 a round at six months old,” Tate explained. Vegas, not an unusual dream for someone whose entire From Oklahoma, Tate and family has rodeo’d. “It’s been in family own “Mo” Betta Clothing the family for so long.” Co., which came about after he Saddle bronc rider Bryon asked his mother to design some Lozier from Daniel, Wyoming, wild Western shirts when he about 70 miles south, got caught started rodeoing. He sold them off up in JH Rodeo’s challenge at 14, his back, literally, at rodeos where with the same dream. For years he first rode bulls and then roped he’s ridden at the JH Rodeo twice calves. Garth Brooks is a devoted a week. customer and wears “Mo” Betta “It’s just an adrenaline rush,” shirts at his concerts. Lozier said of climbing on a Tate and his family work the bronc in the chute. “We went a lot Cody Nite Rodeo (almost 80 years of places, won some money… old) from June 1-Aug. 31 at 8 p.m., After awhile you kind of figure with the Professional Rodeo Cowout if you’re going that way (to boy Association-sanctioned Cody the NFR) or not… You have a Stampede Rodeo (since 1937) July rough ride and don’t know if you Don’t be late and miss the grand entry. 1-4. Then on July 5 at 6 p.m bull want to get back on or not. Then riders will take to the arena in a PRCA Prorodeo Xtreme you get on a good one and want to do it all over again. If Bulls event. the horse kicks a lot, bucking and jumping and you’re Nightly events include bareback and saddle broncs, spurring in time with him, it’s a good ride.” calf and team roping, steer wrestling, break-away roping, JH Rodeo has something for everyone: the “calf barrel racing and bull riding, as well as a calf scramble for scramble” pits four- to 12-year-olds against each the kids. Kids are also treated to trick-roping demonstra- other to catch calves tagged with ribbons for prizes; tions, meeting bullfighters, getting their face painted by women get to check out Wrangler-clad cowboys and rodeo clowns and more. All seating is covered, with great guys check out, well, Wrangler-clad cowgirls. The views of the arena. Cody Nite Rodeo tickets are $16 for events include barrel racing, calf roping, bull riding, adults, $8 for kids 7-12. Cody Stampede tickets are $18. saddle-bronc riding and bronc riding, with a round of All can be reserved by calling 1.800.207.0744 or stopping bull riding saved for last. by Stampede Park, on the west side of Cody. JH Rodeo starts Saturday, May 23, at 8 p.m. during Old West Days, at the Teton County Fairgrounds. Wednesday Jackson Hole Rodeo In Jackson, twice-weekly, the Teton County arena is a rodeos start June 3, and both nights offer family fun hot destination with a hometown atmosphere for up-and- through Labor Day weekend. Special rodeos are held durcoming rough-stock riders, barrel racers and ropers, and ing July Fourth and the Teton County Fair, which also has for the families, friends, and visitors who crowd the a Little Buckaroo rodeo.

Rodeo Schedule Cody, Wyoming Cody Nite Rodeo– June-August, nightly at 8:00 p.m. Cody Stampede–July 1, 2, 3 & 4 Dodge Xtreme Bulls Tour–July 5

Jackson, Wyoming JH Rodeo–Memorial Day through Labor Day, Wednesday & Saturday at 8 p.m.



bleachers. Jackson’s Sadie Wheeldon has barrel raced since she was four, and considers the JH Rodeo a second home after

A place where things are still the same 1 block south of Town Square

307-733-2639

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Pinedale, Wyoming

During Green River Rendezvous weekend, Thursday – Saturday, July 9-12 at 7 p.m.

West Yellowstone, Montana Every Thursday-Saturday from June 4-Aug 29 at 8 p.m.

Gardiner, Montana

NRA Rodeo–June 19 & 20 at 8p.m.

Big Timber, Montana

June 26 at 7 p.m. & June 27 at 6 p.m.

Wilsall, Montana

June 6 at 6:30 p.m. & June 7 at 2 p.m. (30 miles north of Livingston, Montana, on US Hwy 89)

Red Lodge, Montana

Home of Champions Rodeo, July 2, 3 at 6 p.m. & July 4 at 3 p.m.

Livingston, Montana

Livingston Roundup–July 2, 3, & 4 at 8 p.m.

Big Piney, Wyoming July 3 at 6 p.m., July 4 at 1 p.m.

Meeteetse, Wyoming Labor Day, September 7 at 1 p.m.

Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she is a ranch hand and a writer for Pinedale’s Sublette Examiner.

Family Restaurant

“Jackson’s Local Favorite”

Dubois, Wyoming

Every Friday June 5–August 28 at 8 p.m.

S TEAKS ~ S EAFOOD ~ C HICKEN ~ C OMBINATION P LATES G REAT S OUP & S ALAD B AR O PEN 7AM B REAKFAST B UFFET L UNCH & D INNER A SK US ABOUT OUR B EER & W INE S ELECTION 2 0 0 9 M O U N TA I N C O U N T R Y A D V E N T U R E G U I D E

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WYOMING • 83001

All aboard the stagecoach for an Old West trip around the Town Square.

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ome with me, ‘pardner.’ Let’s get lost for a while together,go back a few years.To a Jackson’s Hole of years gone by. In fact, let’s go all the way back to 1914, the year Jackson Hole became a town. Four locals each deeded a piece of land and thereby created what’s been called “The Square” ever since. So let’s just start there. Take a cool drink from the fountain in the center of The Square and gaze up at the Bud Boller bronze of the cowboy on the buckin’ bronc. Look familiar? That same rendition’s on our Wyoming license plates as well as on the tails’ side of the Wyoming quarter.The steed is a famous rodeo horse named Steamboat. Notice the cowboy“fanning”with his hat.They won’t let cowboys

by Cal Glover do that anymore, as it might induce a bucking bronc to turn in a desired direction. Say, towards a judge who’s actually eyeballing the rider instead of cowgirls. The tall trees above you are cottonwoods, Wyoming’s state tree. But look around at the four antler arches on each corner. Nah, we didn’t club “those poor deer” to death. The elk antlers are shed every year, and many were fed into the arches from 1953-1969. Every year, on the Saturday before Memorial Day, the east side of the Square is the site of our annual elk antler auction. Last year 10,669 pounds went for an average of $10.16 a pound, with bidders paying up to $76 per pound. Elk antler artists will take‘em back home and make chandeliers and

w King protected by Sno Refuge (right), is to the National Elk t nex ing sitt n, Jackso Butte (center). East Gros Ventre

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Trailheads in town lead to higher grounds.

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Mountain (left) and

furniture out of those “horns,” or carve ‘em into belt buckles, bolo ties. In 2007 the Rotary Club, working with the town of Jackson, replaced the arch across from the Cowboy Bar and plans to build a new arch every other year. This year, the southeast corner, also known as Shootout Corner, hit the auction block.

So just what is Jackson Hole? William Sublette, of mountain-man fame, named this 40-mile-long by 8to-15-mile-wide valley, or “hole,” after his partner, Davey Jackson, while trappin’ beaver, or “soft gold,” in these parts back in the early 1800s. Throughout the summer, six evenings a week, there’s an old-fashioned Western shootout on that southeast corner. In fact, this is the 54th anniversary year for this, the longest-running Western shootout in the country.It starts at 6:15 p.m., but get there early and find a good place to stand. We hear they use blanks, although the local cemetery is in a pretty spot in case they foul up. From the northeast corner,stroll down Deloney Street a hundred yards. Look at that old red barn, the door on the east side. Hollywood took that door away in 1980, hinged a fake one on so Clint Eastwood and Will Smith (not that Will Smith) could come crashing out in the big fight scene of Any Which Way You Can. (Okay, watch closely—they’re stunt doubles.) Some 30 feature films have been shot here in Jackson Hole. So just what is Jackson Hole? William Sublette, of mountain-man fame, named this 40-mile-long by 8-to-

All photos by Wade McKoy or Bob Woodall

JACKSON


15-mile-wide valley, or “hole,” after his partner, Davey you back to years gone by. And check out those spurs. In Jackson,while trappin’ beaver,or“soft gold,” in these parts the early years of dude ranching, the rodeos were the big back in the early 1800s. social events of the summer,occurring on July Fourth,the A quick trip back to the present.That big building about first three days of August, and Labor Day Weekend.These a couple hundred yards to the north? That’s our rec. center. days they take place Wednesday and Saturday nights Visitors from out of town can use it, too. It sports athletic throughout summer. The funniest thing you’ve seen in a courts,a lap pool,kids’pool,Jacuzzi,sauna,steam room,and long while will be the kids chasing the calf or the goat, the coolest three-story water slide for kids of all ages. grabbing for the elusive ribbon on its tail. The rodeo hasBack to the Square with ya. Wander through some of n’t changed much since dude ranching picked up in the our art galleries,view glimpses of ourWestern heritage cap- Twenties and Thirties. tured in paintings, sculpLet’s stay lost for a bit tures, and photos. Now, longer,whaddya say? Let’s it’s free to look, but you mosey north. Those old might notice they do not brown buildings are origgive these things away. inal. Davies Reid was Have some fun. Find Jackson Drug for many a a local, ask,“Can you diyear, featured homemade rect me to George Washice cream.Walk past it,toington Memorial Park?” ward the Teton Theater, Chances are you’ll get a opened in 1941.Just think blank stare. Most locals back and imagine a Satdon’t know it, but that is urday summer day in the Square. Stand across 1953, how the town folk from the Cowboy Bar. looked as they lined up to Look at the plaque bearsee the famous Western, ing John Colter’s name. Shane, also filmed in our You’ve probably come to valley. our valley because you That’s the Anvil Motel like the great outdoors. across the street, on the Do you like it enough to corner. Let’s say that in Some art galleries display works streetside. do what John Colter did? 1917 you drove your He left the Lewis and buckboard wagon from Clark Expedition to be the first white man to venture into your ranch to town to get supplies. The Anvil was where our valley.Starting from the Missouri River,Private Colter Pop Deloney’s General Store stood.Your supplies came to traveled 500 miles, by himself, in the late fall of 1807. He more than you had,and Pop wasn’t around.Why,you’d just was the first white man to see the geysers of Yellowstone. leave a note and settle up next time you came to town. Hard to say how he felt about them, since the earliest map That’s the way it was done. depicts Yellowstone as “Colter’s Hell.” (Now don’t do what Bill Webb, owner of Green River Some visitors will ask us what we do durin’ our long Outfitters, swears is a true story. These two gals were on winters? Well, we have skiing and snowboarding, snow- the phone with Bill,asking what they should bring.Ol’Bill mobiling and dogsledding, but ya’ll might be interested said, “Nuthin’ really...just your staples.” They showed up in knowing that we set a record in January of 1979, when with, you got it, a box of staples!) it got to 63 degrees. Ah, shoot, I done forgot to add that Hey, it’s kinda fun hanging lost back here in the old little“–”thingy before the number. That makes it, um, 95 days of Jackson’s Hole. Let’s stay just a bit more. Turn degrees…below freezing! Oh,and the last two winters up around and head back south, toward Snow King. That ski at 9,000 feet we got over 600 and 500 inches of snow re- area opened in 1939.In late July we have a running race to spectively. the top of Snow King,starting from the Square.Think you Oh, all right, just one little joke from our ol’ pal Jeff could you beat Tom Borschel’s 2004 record of 22:27? We’ll Foxworthy: “If you go outside in the winter, drill a two- let you ski for free if you can do it! foot hole in the ice, drop a sharp metal hook down that Walk past the Cowboy, take a right. Have dinner at or hole and stand there all day in sub-freezing temperatures take a stroll through the Silver Dollar Dining Room in the waiting for food to swim by and bite that sharp metal Wort Hotel. Lots of wonderful moments captured in hook…you might live in Wyoming!” black-and-white pictures around the Western-themed If you’re 21 or older, saunter on into the Cowboy Bar, room. Built in 1941, The Wort almost burned down in which has been a landmark in our town since 1936. No 1980, as shown in the pictures and news clips adorning bar stools. That’s right, ya sit on saddles. Now, in the old the hallway’s walls. Valley firemen, though, saved the days, up until the late Fifties, these watering holes were wooden bar laden with its 2,032 silver dollars. also called “The Joints.” There was gambling. According In fact,you might just head in there.Walking through to dude rancher Jack Huyler, in his book And That’s the near 90 years of history, why you just mighta’ worked up Way It Was In Jackson’s Hole,“Whenever there was a civic a thirst. Or you might wanna grab a bite and stay lost for project in need of funds, we’d go to the ‘Joints’ for help; a while longer. and we’d get it. That changed when riff-raff from Vegas Come back when you’re ready, will ya? moved in. Jackson was written up in Fortune magazine Cal Glover conducts tours of Yellowstone and Grand as ‘the second toughest town in the United States after Teton parks via Callowishus Park Touring Company Butte, Montana.’” (307) 413-5483. He’s penned three locally set novels, inWalk down the hallway leading to the Cowboy Steak- cluding A Grizzly Death in Yellowstone. house beneath the bar. Black-and-white photos will take w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

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WYOMING • 82414

Completed in 1910, the Buffalo Bill Dam rises 350 feet from the canyon floor.

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The Plains Indian Powwow showcases Native American dancers.

by Barbara Foote Colvert guest ranches offering scenic trail rides through land- 1901. Old Trail town also harbors historic gravesites, scape also perfect for hiking or photographing.Countless among them the final resting place for Jeremiah “Liver unique rock formations along the byway wear historic Eating” Johnson. Johnson, of course, was brought to life names such as “Holy City” and on the big screen by “Old Woman and Her Cabin.” Robert Redford. The Cody Stampede, the region’s Visit it online at But a glance in any direction from Cody also reveals plenty of w w w. m u s e u true barnburner, this year kicks off moftheoldwest.org. other scenic drives originating right from town. The Chief Joseph its 90th anniversary on July 1, runs Cody’s summer Scenic Highway and the incompacalendar is itself alrable Beartooth Pass, for example, through the nation’s July Fourth most legendary, or nearby towns such as historic and from June celebration, and features pro-rodeo through September, Meeteese and Red Lodge, Powell and its Homesteader Museum, riders in world-class competition. no one’s date book and Ralston, which celebrates an should be empty. annual Rendezvous and Mule On the outskirts of Days, are all accessed from Cody. And at the park’s east town, visitors and rodeoers alike gather for the world-fagate sits Pahaska Teepee, where Buffalo Bill entertained mous Cody Night Rodeo, where local and regional cowfriends and dignitaries pokes perform every night throughout June, July, and from around the world. August. This is the real McCoy out here in the West. The Old Trail Town, Cody Stampede, the region’s true barnburner, this year resting right on Cody’s kicks off its 90th anniversary on July 1, runs through the original town site, nation’s July Fourth celebration, and features pro-rodeo hearkens back to a riders in world-class competition. No wonder Cody is classic Western era. known as the Rodeo Capital of the World! Go online to Twenty-six weather- codychamber.org for more info. scarred buildings And speaking of our All-American holiday,a Cody 4th transported from will dazzle young and old like no other,with three parades around the Big Horn and a fabulous fireworks show at the close of four days of Basin contain thou- pure Western fun. sands of artifacts At the Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center, six miles west from Indian trap- of Cody, Buffalo Bill’s remarkable foresight is further repers, frontier set- vealed through his vision to bring water to the town and tlers, and cowboys the region. The center also recounts the dam’s construcwho lived in the re- tion, and houses displays about the Big Horn Basin and st. We the Old recalls legends of tel Ho a gion from 1879- surrounding areas. Visitors can stroll across the 350-footIrm ’s Bill in front of Buffalo

he West’s history and lore, its landscape and hardy inhabitants draw visitors from all over the world. Cody, Wyoming, is at the core of this appeal. It’s a big little town. Big in history, big in perspective, big in style, big in things to do indoors and outdoors. The town of nearly 9,000 takes its name from founding father William Frederick “Buffalo Bill” Cody—scout, marksman, hunter, Pony Express Rider, world-renowned showman, and visionary. Cody saw in this northwestern corner of Wyoming boundless opportunity and invested all that he was and all that he earned to make the region flower.And flower it has,into a premier travel hub and vacation spot for families, history buffs, and connoisseurs of the great outdoors! Yellowstone National Park, established in 1872 as the world’s first national park,is a mere 52-miles east of Cody. The road from Cody to Yellowstone is known today as the Buffalo Bill Scenic Highway, and Teddy Roosevelt justifiably called it “the most scenic 50 miles in America.” That it is, with

ut The nightly shooto

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Historic photo courtesy Buffalo Bill Dam Visitor Center; other photos by Wade McKoy or Bob Woodall

CODY


nightly throughout the summer season, reenacting famous gun battles and shootouts by Western characters you will recognize.The showdown begins nightly at 6 p.m. To enjoy a historic overview of the town, hop aboard the Cody Trolley for a charming tour through Cody’s past and present. This one-hour 22-mile tour conveys passengers through the heart of the West. Relax listening to music in Cody City Park during the free summer concert series; book a trip on the Shoshone River for white-water rafting, kayaking, or hire a fly-fishing guide; replenish your gear for hiking, mountain biking, rock or ice climbing, or cross-country skiing. Cody also boasts a state-of-the-art aquatic and sports center in case the great outdoors (or the trekkers them-

selves) need a break. For lodging in the many excellent bed and breakfasts, hotels and motels, and for details of seasonal events throughout the year, contact: www.codychamber.org or www.yellowstonecountry.org William Frederick Cody received the Congressional Medal of Honor for bringing the West to the world. Come to Cody and see why! Barbara Foote Colvert has worked for more than 30 years as a graphic designer, journalist, writer, and editor, and has been an award-winning newspaper lifestyle editor and columnist. Her books include Harvest of Hope– Family Farming and Farming Families and Resolutions.

The Scout, a bronze sculpture, next to the BBHC, depicts Buffalo Bill Cody.

tall structure and peer over the edge.At the time of completion in 1910, it was the tallest dam in the U.S. But it’s Cody itself that really calls out to travelers. In the curve of Sheridan Avenue lies the Buffalo Bill Historical Center,home to five separate museums encompassing more than 300,000 square feet. The wide streets of “Downtown Cody,� lined with galleries and shops carrying Western art, photography, furniture, jewelry, clothing, keepsakes, and more, welcome the tired, the hungry, and the curious.“Where’s the beef?� Cody’s range of fine restaurants will supply the answer, and whet the appetite of even the most discerning palates. Cody is also home to Sierra Trading Post,the perfect place to gear up for Cody adventures. A genuine log structure houses this outlet, where clothing for outdoor adventures of all kinds is proffered at unbelievably low prices. Don’t believe it? See for yourself online at sierratradingpost.com. The historic Irma Hotel,built by Cody himself in 1902 and named for his youngest daughter on the occasion of her engagement, sits in the center of town. The famous cherry-wood bar is one of the most photographed sites in Cody, a gift from Queen Victoria to the famous showman. Outside the Irma, the Cody Gunfighters entertain visitors

BUFFALO BILL DAM AND VISITOR CENTER FREE ADMISSION

Located 6 miles west of Cody, Wyoming on Hwy 14/16/20

The spirit of Buffalo Bill seems to overtake you here in Cody, Wyoming. His sense of adventure will inspire you to ride horses and ride rapids. To hike, fish and holler at the rodeo. You’ll discover rustic shops, great food and an American legend. Plan your amazing trip at yellowstonecountry.org 8

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Buffalo Bill Historical Center

Photos both pages by Wade McKoy or Bob Woodall

near Located l a f f lo Bil The Bu Center al Historic

The Seasons of Life Gallery, in the Plains Indian Museum, brings to life stories of the many Native American tribes.

S

Brands like:

Stop by the Cody Outlet Store

307-578-5802 SierraTradingPost.com/Cody 38

et in historic Cody, Wyoming, the Buffalo Bill called a “living, breathing place.” Historical Center (BBHC) invites visitors to emThe Whitney Gallery offers visions of the American bark on a virtual expedition through the American West. West through the eyes of its master painters and sculpWith over 300,000 square feet of floor space on three lev- tors. Landscapes by Albert Bierstadt and Thomas Moran els, the center presents a breathtaking view of the West share space with paintings of the classic West by Frederic with an entire museum dediRemington, Charles M.Russell, cated to each of five themes: the The timeless beat of the N.C. Wyeth, and W.H.D. Konatural wonders of the Yellowerner. The Whitney is closed stone region, the legend of Buf- powwow and the powerful until June 21,2009,when it will falo Bill Cody, the living culture reopen,newly configured to reof the Plains Indian,the fine art recitation of stories handed flect its 50th Anniversary. of Western masters, and the down through the ages are Rounding out the Buffalo marvelous story of the evoluBill Historical Center’s perspecamong the audio experi- tive, the Cody Firearms Mution of the firearm. Highlights for 2009 include seum reveals insights into the a special exhibition of paint- ences awaiting visitors to impact of the firearm on hisings depicting Lewis and the Plains Indian Museum. tory. The fine art of engraving Clark’s Corps of Discovery, arand revolutionary advanceguably the most celebrated exments in engineering are ploration expedition in the history of the United States. among the surprising elements of the story told with the One hundred paintings by Charles Fritz capture the spirit world’s most comprehensive collection of American arms, of the explorers, the explored, and the West’s glorious as well as European arms dating to the sixteenth century. landscape. In addition to its five museums, the Buffalo Bill HisThe center’s newest wing,the Draper Museum of Nat- torical Center hosts the McCracken Research Library, ural History,portrays the natural world of the Greater Yel- which specializes in Buffalo Bill’s Wild West,Western art lowstone region, while understanding the Western and artists, Plains Indian history and culture, firearms environment sets the stage in the Buffalo Bill Museum for history and technology, the natural history of the a fascinating look at the life and times of William F.“Buf- Greater Yellowstone region, the history of Yellowstone falo Bill” Cody. Park, Western folk music, and Cody area history. The timeless beat of the powwow and the powerful Visitors may purchase reproductions of fine Western recitation of stories handed down through the ages are art,jewelry,and Native American art at the Historical Cenamong the audio experiences awaiting visitors to the ter’s museum store, Museum Selections. Admission is Plains Indian Museum. The use of audio-visual exhibits good for two consecutive days and includes entry to all in combination with one of the nation’s largest collec- five museums.For more information call 307.587.4771 or tions of Native American art and artifacts has created visit www.bbhc.org. — Buffalo Bill Historical Center what Crow elder and historian Joe Medicine Crow

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TETON VILLAGE

Rendezvous Mountain rises 4,139’ above Teton Village.

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eton Village’s Jackson Hole Mountain Resort may be most famous for its steep and deep skiing, but in summer, the surrounding valley overflows with wildflowers, blue skies, and countless activities for the entire family. With turnkey adventures and ready resources for each activity, “The Village” is making it increasingly easy to spend an entire day there exploring the mountains, dining, shopping, and sampling new activities before retiring to a cozy mountain room. The light is still bright and glowing at 8 p.m. during much of the summer, making perfect days seem endless. “We’re not Disney, but we do have the convenience of purchasing multiple options in one go,and attractions for all ages,” said Anna Olson, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort Brand Manager. The resort offers tickets good for different activities, like riding the new 100-passenger Jackson Hole Aerial Tram, tandem-pararagliding rides, the bungee-trampoline, and nature hiking. “You pick and choose,” she added.

ple Live music is a sta

Lush alpine meadows blossom with Indian Paintbrush next to snow-fed streams.

by Lauren M. Whaley The resort’s Nick Wilson’s Café, next to the tram, makes a great base camp.Guests can easily walk,drive,or take public transportation—the START bus—to it from rentals and hotels to embark upon a day of (or a summer of) discovery. Armed with an array of maps, guides, and equipment suggestions, the staff will help you create individualized excursions for yourself, friends, and family. AERIAL TRAM

For an overview, best to start at the top—the top of Rendezvous Mountain that is. The new Jackson Hole Aerial Tram is here. The updated red box started carrying skiers to the top of Rendezvous Mountain in December 2008. The same aerial tram that whisks skiers and snowboarders up 4,139 vertical feet during ski season also carries summer vacationers on a round-trip journey into the high alpine landscape of flowers and granite. The ride might include spotting a moose, deer, or even the occasional black bear foraging on the mountainside. The sleek cabins,which carry 100 passengers in ski season, will be limited to 60 people in the summer. One advantage of the bigger cabin is that now a complete bus tour can board the tram all at once. At the summit, take in the unrivaled 360-degree views of Jackson Hole, the Snake River, and Grand Teton National Park.Naturalist talks are at 10 a.m. and 1 p.m. daily at Corbet’s Cabin Deck at the Tram summit.

tering holes. in Teton Village wa

w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

WYOMING • 83025

views and take in the high-alpine tundra that abounds with hardy wildflowers and fascinating geological aspects, including fossils from the ancient oceans that once covered Jackson Hole. Guided hikes are offered at 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. Cost: 1 activity ticket or $12. You can also choose to hike down the Mountain Trail, a 7.2-mile trek, or head off the backside into Grand Teton National Park for a long day of hiking. There are 468 species of plants within the resort’s boundaries, according to David Gonzales’ Jackson Hole: On a Grand Scale—more than enough to distract even the most disciplined hiker. Watch the clock, though, and the climate. High-altitude weather changes quickly from sunshine to thunderstorms and vice versa, so pack a jacket, water, and sunscreen, even for a short walk. Another popular option from the valley floor, hike up and ride the tram down for free. SKI & SNOWBOARDING

Although all inbounds terrain will be closed, skiers are welcome to ride the tram and ski their favorite out of bounds locations for as long as the snow permits. TANDEM PARAGLIDING FLIGHTS

While most people ride the tram back down,a few adventurous souls fly down.Yep, you can sprout wings on a 20-minute tandem flight with Jackson Hole Paragliding. Their certified pilots have logged hundreds of hours flying in the Tetons and are eager to introduce first-timers to the unique experience of tandem paragliding.A running start to lift-off leads to the peaceful, exhilarating flight to the valley floor.

HIKING

BRIDGER GONDOLA, COULOIR RESTAURANT & “THE DECK” AT COULOIR

From the top a variety of hiking options tug at your boots.Wander around the 10,450-foot summit to witness incredible

Now that the red box is back,the Bridger Gondola will operate evenings only to transport diners to the Couloir Restaurant. At 9,095, the restaurant is nearly 3,000 feet above the valley floor and provides a unique setting for

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evening cocktails or dinner.“Step off the Bridger Gondola fering a lounge experience at 9,000’, with appetizers, at 9,095 feet and walk into a contemporary and hip, new shared plates, fine wines and bar. Sundays play host to “Sunset Sushi,” with live entertainrestaurant,” said Olson.“The outdoor ‘Deck’ is a great place to ment. The ‘Deck’ will be open July 4 through Labor Day Weekend (Wedtake in views of Corbet’s Couloir, the soaring heights of the HeadSun, 5:30-10 p.m., weather permitwall, and the incredible alpine ting). The gondola ride is free after 5:30 to everyone. setting.” Starting at 5:30 guests can MOUNTAIN BIKING enjoy a four-course, fixed-price The resort has a bike-trail system dinner,Thursday-Saturday,from that includes intermediate and adJune 18-27, then Wednesdayvanced riding, with miles of rolling Sunday from July 1 to Labor Day. A young athlete goes inverted on single-track. Ride your own or rent a The restaurant can also be the Bungee Trampoline. mountain bike from Jackson Hole booked for special events. Sports.Purchase a lift ticket at Nick Wilson’s Café to transNew this year,the‘Deck’ outside the Couloir will be of- port your bike up Teewinot chairlift.Ask a resort employee for a trail map. Those who want to get into tricks and jumps TETON VILLAGE should check out the beginner terrain park on Eagles Rest. This is great for kids and novice riders—and it’s free. May 23: Aerial Tram Opens For a leisurely ride without automobiles,travel the Moose-Wilson pathway north to Grand Teton National June 20-21: Aerofest 2008 – Paragliding clinics, acrobatic demonstration & contests Park or south all the way to Wilson.

Summer Fest:

JH Sports 4th Annual Disc Golf Series

TRAIL RIDES

June 21:

Summer Solstice and Family Fun Day

June 27:

Jackson Hole Half-Marathon

July 4th:

Fireworks Celebration in Teton Village

To really get Western while in Jackson Hole,be sure to saddle up and experience a trail ride. Stroll on over to the corrals on the east side of the Snake River Lodge, where you can head out on hourly trail rides on a quality mountain horse, in the company of a real cowboy wrangler.

July 4-5:

Silver Collector Car Show and Auction

DISC GOLF

June 27-28: Jackson Hole Wine Auction July1-Aug15: Grand Teton Music Festival

July 10-12: Teton Village Art & Antique Show July 24-26: Festival for the Arts – food, arts and entertainment by 60 juried artists July 25:

JH Sports 4th Annual Disc Golf Series

July 25:

Taming the Tetons Mountain Bike Race

Aug 5:

UCJH Mountain Bike Race – August Series

Aug 12:

UCJH Cyclecross Bike Race – August Series

Aug 15:

Cache-Teton 24 Hour Running Relay

Aug 19:

UCJH Mountain Bike Race – August Series

Aug 22:

Rendezvous Mountain Bike Hill Climb

Aug 28-30: Teton Village Art & Antique Show Aug 29:

JH Sports 4th Annual Disc Golf Series

Sept 4-7:

Festival for the Arts featuring foods, arts and entertainment

Sept 5-7:

Jackson Hole Mountain Festival & Labor Day Ski Sale

Sept 12:

LOTOJA Bike Race (Logan, Utah-Jackson Hole)

Sept 19:

TGR World Movie Premiere

Sept 27:

Aerial Tram Closes

Ongoing Activities: Kids Ranch Day Camp – 307-739-2691 Jackson Hole Paragliding Rides – 307-690-4948 Teton Village Trail Rides – 307-733-2674 Grand Teton Music Festival Concert Series 307-733-1128 Summer Team Extreme – 307-739-2691

More event information: www.jacksonhole.com 40

If making things fly through the air rather than attaching wings to yourself sounds more appealing, play nine holes of Frisbee golf on the free course near the base of the resort. Bring your own discs or buy them at one of the resort’s many shops. Playing is free. RENTALS AND PURCHASES

With so many places to recreate, Jackson Hole Mountain Resort naturally includes an abundance of shops that rent gear. These include Teton Village Sports, Jackson Hole Sports, Jack Dennis Sports, and the Hole in the Wall Snowboard Shop.Nick Wilson’s sells Jackson Hole Mountain Resort logo apparel.

Jackson Hole Mountain Resort’s new $31-million tram carried its first skiers last December.

mountain, including bungee-trampolining. Additionally, they help operate the summer yurt and private adventure guide services. SLEEP IN A YURT

Sleep over in the Tetons at the Rock SpringsYurt—the Village’s version of an upscale tent with Mongolian origins. The modern Rock Springs’ yurt houses a wood-burning stove, eight bunk beds, a kitchen, and a large dining table.This unusual adventure is both rugged and luxurious. Reaching the yurt requires a 2.5-mile hike up a trail that gains 1,400 feet in elevation. But once there, your only responsibilities are enjoying the scenery and your friends. Expert guides cook the food, stoke the stove, and even do the dishes. Not a bad tradeoff for an exhilarating hike. PRIVATE ADVENTURE GUIDE

Those who detest the idea of narrowing the choices from so many amazing activities can hire an adventure guide. The guide will make selecting an activity simple, so you can enjoy your day without the A family explores the alpine environment at stress of planning it. the top of Rendezvous Mountain. The guide will meet you and up to five of your friends or family at your hotel in the MOUNTAIN SPORTS SCHOOL The year-round Mountain Sports School admin- morning. Your planned day could entail a guided excuristers all the“sporty”activities in Teton Village.For ex- sion at Teton Village, horseback riding from the Village ample, it oversees mountain biking and into Grand Teton National Park,or simply an itinerary that trail-orientation classes. The qualified staffers also you complete on your own. The guide will even transport offer other fun recreational activities at the base of the you back to your lodgings.Advanced booking is required.

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Paragliding photo: Jon Hunt; all others: Wade McKoy or Bob Woodall

June 20:


KIDS’ RANCH

Got kids? Teton Village is well equipped with staff and facilities to handle wee ones from as young as six months old. The Kids’ Ranch operates June 15-August 31, right next to the Bridger Gondola. Licensed day-care providers lead youngsters on adventures in Teton Village while focusing on the nature,history, and science of Jackson Hole. Junior trekkers hike, play sports,undertake science and arts projects,and frolic in the water. “They’ll be able to do all the things that are available to the public with their camp counselors,” Olson noted. “It’s an activity-based day program with counselors who are well-trained, good, fun people.” PEACEFUL PURSUITS

For some, a vacation is about being pampered, and Teton Village boasts plenty of tranquil treatments. If you find it necessary to get away while getting away, several resort properties offer spa treatments, top-of-the-line fitness centers, and restaurants the likes of which you’d expect to find in metros like New York City.

SEIZE THE

TETON VILLAGE DAYS OF SUMMER! A mecca of wildflowers, wildlife and mountain scenery interspersed with a wonderful sampling of lodging, restaurants, spas, activities and entertainment. Whether you stay for just the day or a week, there is plenty of relaxation and adventure to enjoy for everyone.

Pick up your free copy of The Village Mix in any of the businesses in Teton Village or visit

www.gotetonvillage.com

Sprout wings with an expert pilot on a 20-minute tandem paragliding flight from the summit.

ENTERTAINMENT

Daily, check out the Mangy Moose Saloon—the famous Teton Village bar with top-name,live entertainment. Throughout the summer, visit Walk Festival Hall to hear music from the Grand Teton Music Festival series. Witness epic orchestra performances under the music direction of maestro Donald Runnicles, only the third person to hold the position in the festival’s celebrated 46-year history. With all its amenities and activities, not to mention being a gateway to Grand Teton National Park, Teton Village begs for a long stay.You could spend an entire vacation at this full-fledged year-round resort, and judging from the passel of things to do and see,maybe you should. Until Lauren M.Whaley finds a meaningful,structured, day job, she'll continue her freelance career while seeking adventure and dancing in Jackson Hole and beyond. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

COME AND STAY WITH US. Enjoy a comfortable, pleasant and inexpensive stay in Teton Village at the base of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. 1 or 2 Persons: $69—$99 per night per room 3 or 4 Persons: $79—$109 per night per room Rates vary from high to low seasons. New this summer—Bunkrooms available Box 583, Teton Village, Wyoming 83025 307-733-3415 • FAX: 307-739-1142 http://www.thehostel.us email:info@thehostel.us 2 0 0 9 M O U N TA I N C O U N T R Y A D V E N T U R E G U I D E

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TETON VALLEY

IDAHO • 83455

Ride the chairlift at Grand Targhee and get a head start on Grand Teton views.

J

ust over the pass

from Jackson Hole, set beneath the majestic Grand Tetons, lies one of the West’s most beautiful gems, Teton Valley. A broad scenic basin once known to trappers and mountain men as Pierre’s Hole, Teton Valley is today a budding all-season playground for the young at heart.

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by Mike Calabrese A mere 25 minutes from Jackson Hole, Teton Valley harbors a summer’s (and winter’s) worth of diverse recreational opportunities for the entire family. The breadth of Teton Valley’s eye-popping landscape cries out to anglers, hikers, backpackers, cyclists, horseback riders, music lovers, and to sightseers who just want to soak up all the natural wonders tucked in on the west side of the Grand Tetons. The valley’s high-altitude Western towns of Victor and Driggs still cling to their smalltown charm while offering visitors service and first-class amenities to match the mountains. At the base of Teton Pass lies the town of Victor,Idaho, often a first and last stop for travelers (and for in-theknow locals) heading to or from Jackson. The Victor Emporium, right smack dab downtown, is the unchallenged old-fashioned soda fountain king of the region.The clever little enterprise also dispenses spot-on fly-fishing updates and info, and stocks all the gear and flies that put anglers in touch with their quarry. A well-known hangout for those who crave chocolate malts or huckleberry milkshakes, the Emporium’s handmade soda-fountain con-

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coctions are often the reward for anglers returning from a day on the nearby South Fork, Teton, or Henry’s Fork rivers, trout havens that lure fly-fishers and boaters alike. Teton Valley is also home to one of the country’s finest ski areas—the powder mine of Grand Targhee Resort.As with most ski resorts, its summer terrain promises equally rewarding adventures. Already world-famous for its unsurpassed and prodigious winter-recreation menu, Grand Targhee is now staking out its claim as a major summer destination resort. Countless activities await summer visitors and lodgers alike (that includes RVers), from hiking to horseback riding, from mountain biking to major music festivals to fine dining, all in terrain every bit the equal of Mother Nature’s best. The resort accesses hiking and biking trails ranging from half-a-mile to nearly eight miles, in an alpine setting where breathlessness is a choice.You can earn it the old-fashioned way or by climbing aboard the resort’s Dreamcatcher chairlift,which will whisk you and the crew to the 10,000-foot summit of Fred’s Mountain. w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m


Bull moose, swans, and 4th of July balloonists populate the valley, while bikers and hikers escape to the mountains. You (and your bike) ride the chairlift all summer long at the Grand Targhee Resort for just $99. The Targhee Fest hosts musicians Keb Mo, Johnny Lang, James McMurtry, Gov’t Mule and others, July 17-19. Bluegrass

royalty

like

the

Photos both pages by Wade McKoy or Bob Woodall; Wildlife photos: Henry H. Holdsworth — Wild By Nature Gallery

David Grisman Quintet, the John

Cowan

Wilders,

Band,

Yonder

The

Mountain

String Band and a passel of other notables share the stage with scenery that matches anything on the planet as the resort kicks off its 22nd Annual Grand Targhee Bluegrass Festival,

August

21-23.

A

Bluegrass Music Camp takes place the week prior.

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Sportif • Rapala • Native Eyewear • Rapala • Merrell • Dansko

Home of THE World Famous Huckleberry Milkshake



• SUNGLASSES • HATS • SHOES • GIFTS • T-SHIRTS • ESPRESSO • JEWELRY



208-787-2221 Located in downtown Victor, Idaho ~ Just 30 minutes from downtown Jackson Hole

• Cloudveil • Maui Jim • Action Optics • Temple Fork Fly Rods

• Carhartt • Hot Chilly’s • Smith

• Smart Wool • Smith • Sportif •

And when the stars activities and amenities also come out at Grand includes a Kids’ Camp SumTarghee, they really come mer Program that will knock out! From July 17-19 this their socks off, a ropes year, the mountain hosts course, climbing wall, disc musicians Keb Mo, golf, swimming, and more. Johnny Lang, James McAnd for visitors looking Murtry, Gov’t Mule and to gear up for Targhee’s terothers during its celerain and the valley’s recrebrated Targhee Fest.Then, ational opportunities,Victor, from August 21-23, blueDriggs and Grand Targhee grass royalty like the should be the only stops they David Grisman Quintet, make. Local shops are great the John Cowan Band, places to find training or The Wilders, Yonder recreation advice, and for Mountain String Band gear, clothing, and guides to and a passel of other nothe region. In Driggs, buy a tables share the stage with bike at Habitat and receive scenery that matches anya complimentary Grand thing on the planet as the Targhee summer mountain resort kicks off its 22nd biking pass. Annual Grand Targhee Sure, it may lie over the Bluegrass Festival. hill from Jackson Hole, but The Teton River meanders through the valley in Grand Targhee’s naTeton Valley’s array of sumthe shadow of its namesake mountains. tionally known entertainmer activities and amenities ment productions have paired up these spectacular sounds more like a fountain of youth, one that is luring enheadline acts with the aspens, firs, gently sloping mead- thusiastic visitors of all ages. ows, bluebird days and star-laden evenings that mounMike Calabrese, a Jackson resident for36 years, owns tain country is famous for. Its outdoor festivals are the region’s premiere music-booking agency, Noteworunsurpassed celebrations of music in the North Ameri- thy, is a board member of the Jackson Hole Cowboy Jucan tradition. bilee, and supports his fly-fishing addiction through Never resting on its laurels,the resort’s growing list of music performance, writing, and editing.

TM

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PINEDALE

WYOMING • 82941

The Upper Green River Valley surrounded by the Gros Ventres and Wind River Mountains provides good grazing for cattle ranchers.

T

Photos both pages by Wade McKoy or Bob Woodall

he sign welcoming travelers into Pinedale says it best— “All the civilization you need.” by Joy Ufford Pinedale is still a small town at heart,set in big country.And it’s clear, even from the road, that the nearby Wind River Mountains, Green River and its lakes, historical sites and hordes of wildlife remain unspoiled all these years after trappers first gathered here in the mid-1800s.So setting Pronghorn antelope roam the prairies surrounding Pinedale. off from the highway could no doubt make for an unexpectedly memorable experience. A weary visitor to Pinedale’s environs can easily ignore the modern world. The nearby Green River still goes drifting along like it has forever, the Wind River Mountains off in the distance change their intriguing hues from dawn till dusk, and bawling cattle are still herded through endless sagebrush fields by cowboys on horseback. But the visitor needs to get out there in that marvelous landscape—and it’s not that hard to do. Whether you prefer to drive, bike, hike, float, ride, or climb your way to create an adventure or find seclusion, it really is simple to get away from it all. The mountain men, fur trappers, and pioneers who came through this country in the last 100, 150, even 175 years, found compelling reasons to return to the Green River Valley.Today’s visitors often discover similar reasons,and the beckoning landscape and high-spirited activities might be among them. The annual Green River Rendezvous, with its unique parade, mountain-man traders’ row, and renowned pageant of grizzled characters, is certainly one of the region’s most popular events, happening this year July 9-12. If recreating on and around mountainside lakes gets your adrenaline going, blaze a trail to the Father’s Day Fishing Derby Union Pass is a remote scenic drive, on Fremont Lake (June 14),where the Pinedale Boat Club holds or, for this W ilderness Ve ntures grou its annual sailing regatta and other water events. Rodeos are featured p, a bike rid e. during the Green River Rendezvous and Big Piney’s Chuck Wagon Days w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

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(over July Fourth) as well as during the Sublette County Fair, a down-home celebration complete with singing cowboys, rhinestone ropers, a fiddlers’ jamboree and more, all reflecting the region’s ranching and agricultural roots, July 31-Aug 9. Looking for something a little more solitary? The headwaters of the Green River,which flow past old homesteaders’ cabins and classy guest ranches, begin near the iconic Square Top Mountain and Green River Lakes.Trails, some fairly rough and some worn smooth with use, lead hikers, riders, and mountain bikers up into wildflowerfilled gullies and through stunning landscapes in a relatively short time. Lakes large and small, high up and higher up, are set gemlike throughout the Winds and nearby Wyoming Range, where fishing for mackinaw, rainbow, cutthroat, and golden trout is its own reward.Whether you go solo or

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Photos both pages by Wade McKoy or Bob Woodall

The rivers and lakes of the Wind River Range hold excellent fishing waters.

The next question should be, ‘Where do I stay?’ hire a guide, fishing can be a complete vacation choice around Pinedale. The same goes for floating, kayaking, Make it as fancy or down-to-earth as you desire, boating—even water-skiing on Boulder Lake’s chilly wa- from camping rough beside a mountain stream to cozying up at bed-and-breakfasts, watching wildlife ters (not for the faint-hearted, though). The Winds are so spectacular and formidable they wander through cabin sites, or savoring luxuriously almost defy travelers to find the range’s heart. But the rustic stays at working guest ranches. Camprock climbing (especially in Cirque of the Towers), back- grounds, RV parks, and motels fill quickly in Sublette County’s glorious country pack trips and summers, so plan ahead horseback rides, flat-toThe Wind Rivers are so by making reservations frightening mountain bikyou arrive. ing, and breathtaking spectacular and formidable before If in all this outdoorswildlife watching (more animals than people in this they almost defy travelers to oriented vacation you need that little slice of territory!) are worldfind the range’s heart. civilization, there’s downrenowned. town Pinedale with its esIf you get a yearning tablished cowboy shops, for the old ways and old new movie theater, outdays, hiking into the door-gear shops, hardBridger Wilderness can ware and auto-supply give you that. More than stores, two weekly news428,000 acres of wild land papers, arts and cultural where you’ll never hear a happenings, excellent chainsaw or meet a fourdining, and Western wheeler. If you require a shopping. No Wal Mart little less reality but still within 100 miles! seek experiences of the Whether you need new early days, there are quick cowboy boots or the latest and enjoyable alternatives. in fishing gear, you’ll find Visit the area’s two it in this little Western wonderful local-history town with a big heart. museums and get a lesson People here are proud as only they can teach it. of their uniqueness,yet just The Green River Valley Muas it’s true of the Green seum in Big Piney is open River Valley community in June 15-Oct. 15, noon to 4 Pinedale’s many trailheads lead to wilderness. the old-fashioned sense of p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, donation admission.The Museum of the Mountain the word, there are bonds linking locals one to another Man in Pinedale is open May 1-Oct. 31, daily 10 a.m.-5 and to the land. It won’t take you long to discover those feelings within p.m.through September,10 a.m.-Noon and 1-3 p.m.Monday-Friday in October.Adults $4,kids $3.You’ll come away yourself outdoors in Pinedale’s backyard. with a new appreciation for the mountain men, miners, Joy Ufford lives in Bondurant, where she is a ranch pioneers,and ranchers who struggled to find a way to sur- hand and writer for the Sublette Examiner in Pinedale. vive in this paradisiacal valley.


Green River Rendezvous and Museum of the Mountain Man

O

by Mike Calabrese

nly the term “mountain man” can match that of “cowboy”for the wealth of color and lore associated with the“winning of the West.” Cowboys,of course,roamed pretty much everywhere west of the Mississippi and have outlived even their almost mythical epoch of the late 1800s. But mountain men, who made do with less (after all, cowboys always had their horses and cattle),pretty much went the way of the beaver hat by the late 1850s. For every Bat Masterson, Bill Hickok, and Wyatt Earp, there’s an equally notable mountain man.John C.Fremont and William Sublette have a couple of Wyoming counties and mountain peaks named after them. Jedediah Smith and Kit Carson have certainly garnered enough press to earn their places in popular Western culture.And mountain man Jim Bridger is so revered around here that visitors to Wyoming will find no fewer than 21 places honoring him. Fitting, then, that a .40 caliber half-stock rifle of his should end up in the region’s most famous collection of mountain man history and memorabilia— Museum of the Mountain Man in Pinedale,Wyoming. Even more fitting,the museum is situated on a hill not far from the site of the original Green River Rendezvous, held in 1833 in the“Valley of the Green.” Over 3,000 Indians, hundreds of mountain men, fur trappers, and misThe Green River Rendezvous Pageant celebrates Mountain Man Country. sionaries assembled there to barter and trade their goods. The cry “Meet me on the Green!” was a reminder and a tumes, is set for Sunday, July 12 at 1 p.m. at the Pinedale are $5 for adults, $4 for seniors,and $3 for kids 6-12 years reassurance to early trappers,who spent long and isolated Rodeo Grounds. For more information visit the Green old. For more information call toll free (877) 686-6266 or winters gathering beaver pelts, and to traders who trav- River Rendezvous Pageant Association’s website at meet- go online at museumofthemountainman.com. eled countless miles on hazardous, often life-threatening meonthegreen.com or call (307) 367-2242. trails. These rendezvous sometimes The museum captures the ways lasted for months.Time enough to get and lore of these hardy individuals. Mountain man Jim supplies, renew friendships, swap Clothing,artifacts,mounted animals, stories, trade, tipple, and, naturally, Bridger is so revered even the Chief American Horse Wardebauch. Of the 16 rendezvous held rior Society tipi help bring the days during the height of the Rocky around here that visi- of the mountain man alive. The muMountain fur trade, six were located tors to Wyoming will seum also colorfully showcases westin the Green River Valley. ern wildlife, Indians, fur trapping, Sunday, July 12, Exhibits at the museum provide find no fewer than 21 wagon trains, mountain men, and a good starting point for visitors bison in its spacious 15,000-square1pm at heading to the 73rd Annual Green places honoring him. foot facility. Bridger’s rifle, given to Pinedale River Rendezvous, a re-creation of him in 1853, was at one time part of Rodeo those original mountain man gatherings. This year’s ren- the Buffalo Bill collection. Fortunately, it has found a perGrounds dezvous is replete with activities for the entire family and manent home in this rewarding and informative setting. runs July 9-12. The Rendezvous Pageant, where over 200 The Museum of the Mountain Man is open daily from 9 $5 Admission members of the community perform in original cos- a.m. until 5 p.m., through September 30. Admission fees

Meet me on the Green 73rd Annual

GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT

307-367-8800 Locally Owned & Managed

West Hwy 191 in Pinedale 1054 W. Pine St. Pinedale, WY 82941

Reservations 1-866-995-6343 w w w. f o c u s p r o d u c t i o n s . c o m

The LODGE AT PINEDALE

Photo Jeannette Boner, Pinedale Roundup

• Indoor Pool & Jacuzzi • Free Continental Breakfast • Free High-Speed Internet • Refrigerator and microwave in every room • Located minutes from White Pine Ski Area

Parade: Saturday, July 11, 11am Downtown Pinedale Lion’s Club BBQ: Sunday, July 12, 11:30 www.meetmeonthegreen.com Call (307)367-2242 for information

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MONTANA • 59758

The Madison River flows within a few miles of downtown West Yellowstone and attracts anglers from around the world.

A

ll right. You’ve been on the road for days. Pets and kids (maybe even spouses) clamoring for your attention, succor, food, whatever.You’ve maintained your otherwise threatened sanity with thoughts of Yellowstone’s splendor and magnificence, its vastness and promise of nature’s less domesticated sonic attributes (trees soughing in the breeze,birds voicing their approval, perhaps even the growl of some ursine creature). But are you really ready to hit the park, cold turkey? Without, say, a brief respite? Face it, you might just need to catch your breath— maybe even that sanity—before handing over entrance fees to a ranger at the park’s gate. No doubt you could use a place where you can check through that list of necessities before hitting one of the park’s campgrounds or pitching a tent in the backcountry, or simply chauffeuring the crew around Yellowstone’s countless wonders. If you’re anywhere near West Yellowstone, Montana, keep the faith.If you’re not in the vicinity,head there now! The town rests comfortably at 6,666 feet, its air clean and refreshing—and welcoming.West Yellowstone’s broad streets, its passel of restaurants, diverse shops, and treehemmed lodging could be the start of one great venture into Yellowstone park itself. Oh,yeah, and because it’s summer, the snow has been pretty much packed away until late next fall. The town teems with folks and activity throughout

48

by Mike Calabrese the summer, but then again, it is 2009, not 1907, when the restaurants,sandwich counters,bars,grocery stores,all of town’s few visitors arrived mostly by rail on the Oregon them in West are prepared to help the weary—and at Short Line.Travelers to West Yellowstone then had almost times stymied—traveler make the best of a visit to one of the most celebrated and impressive pieces of geograno means or opportunity to take advanphy in the world. tage of a final supply stop before Here’s a short list of what West Yellowstone’s heading off amiable folks can steer into nathe visitor to: cycling, t u re’s m a j e s t y. fishing, hiking, hot Today, 100 springs, horseback riding, rafting, kayaking, years after tours, rodeos, movies, it’s foundfood, rest, even meding, West Yellowical assistance.And,of stone’s 900 or so residents gear up The art exhibit annually for summer visitors readying course,churches—for “Buffalo Roam” is on display in West those whose souls themselves for park travels and mounYellowstone for a have been tried in the tain-country outings. third summer. best and worst of West, as it’s called by locals (locals times, spent all too often in include folks from as far away as Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and Bozeman, Montana), is the per- motor vehicles jammed with kin and camp kitchen. fect place to begin preparing for that journey into the West itself butts right up against a park that is home park. Bookstores stocking an amazing array of regional to 300 miles of roads, six types of ungulates, grizzly and history, angling, and photography tomes also provide a black bears, 10,000 thermal features, roughly 200 geysers sanctuary to relax in before—or after—a park foray. Gift and 41 waterfalls, and at 2,221,766 acres, enough land to shops, microbreweries,delis, pizzerias, bike and outdoor- apply for United Nations membership. So when West gear rental outlets, angling shops, clothing enterprises, opens its doors for summer travelers,businesses had bet-

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Photos — Wade McKoy (top); Painted Buffalo by Michael D. Meissner; Bear courtesy Grizzly and Wolf Discovry Center

WEST YELLOWSTONE


ter be ready. And they are, with products and services at summer season. Watch for “The Painted Buffalo Roam,” peak quality. “The Painted Calves Unveiling,” The Janet Clarkson MeVisitors,too,had better be ready.Blazing hot days and morial Triathlon, and the opening of fishing on the park’s brisk, cool nights endured in inimitable Firehole River.July,of starts with the usual cars, tents, or on the trails, deThe nights can carry course, mand a certain amount of prebang and festivities on the 4th, paredness from Yellowstone’s both the haunting howling while August plays host to the Annual Yellowstone Rod visitors. Weather extremes of wolves and coyotes 38th move in and out of the YellowRun, the 4th Annual Smoking stone area like goldfish darting (yep, even in town) and the Waters Rendezvous, The Pinearound in an aquarium. The Stampede—a footrace daunting chill of quick needle nights can carry both the through one of the country’s haunting howling of wolves and temperature drops. most picturesque trail systems—and the Yellowstone coyotes (yep, even in town) and Historic Center Ball.September and October round out the the daunting chill of quick temperature drops. West’s summer calendar is loaded with gatherings and social calendar with the 54th Annual Knothead Jamboree festivities that beckon devotees with a mind-boggling and the 12th Annual Fall Cycle Tour. array of interests. June pretty much kicks off the region’s Topping it all off, the West in West Yellowstone is cele-

brated by that most Western of traditions, rodeo. Cowpokes compete every weekend,from June through August, in the arena just a few miles outside of town. Visit www.yellowstonerodeo.com for more info. Now, if all of this seems like more than a body could handle,there’s always time for just laying over in West and walking around the friendly little town itself, grabbing some grub, a drink, or a souvenir, or just basking in a mountain-country community smack dab in the middle of nature’s playground. For more information, visit West’s chamber site at www.westyellowstonechamber.com. Or call the chamber at 406-646-7701. Mike Calabrese, a 36-year resident of Jackson Hole, supports his fly-fishing addiction as a professional musician, editor, and writer. He is the owner of Noteworthy, the region’s premiere music-booking agency (www.noteworthymusicagency.com).

Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center tain destruction. The phrase “a fed bear is a dead bear” is not empty rhetoric. The center’s stunning exhibit,“Bears: Imagination and Reality,” compellingly draws visitors into the world of bears, both “real and imaginary.” The 25 taxidermic specimens highlight the richly diverse coloration of grizzlies and the awe-inspiring girth of the polar bear. Even accomplished outdoorsmen will find the exhibit area’s interactive stations intriguing and challenging. Watching these bruins (the playful Sam tips the scales at 1,000 pounds) tussle with each other or rummage for food hidden throughout the habitat by both the center’s staff and visiting kids, reveals behavior that, frankly, few people ever witness. Seeing Illie actually snatch a live rainbow from the habitat’s stocked pond beats looking at even the Bruins in the center’s habitat display exhibit bemost famous and widespread photos of Kodiaks havior that few people ever see in the wild. swatting at salmon. Impressive as those images are, othing can prepare visitors to West Yellow- they simply can’t convey the deft quickness of an 800stone’s Grizzly and Wolf Discovery Center pound grizzly. (GWDC) for the startling, up-close experience The center’s wolves roam in their own River Valof viewing these epic, almost mythic, animals. The ley Wolf habitat, separate from that of the grizzlies. haunting,intelligent eyes of the gray But the two packs are as easily wolves and the regal pelage and Seeing Illie actually and productively viewed from majesty of the grizzlies is simply snatch a live rainbow the outdoors viewing deck breathtaking, even in this carefully through the floor-to-ceiling from the habitat’s windows of the new Naturalist controlled and maintained habitat. stocked pond beats Cabin. Kids, as well as adults, A visit to the center can be every bit as moving and educational as a jourlooking at even the most seem mesmerized by the ney through the park itself, espefamous and widespread wolves, and because passes to cially for folks who never venture the center are good for two photos of Kodiaks consecutive days, visitors away from cars or campgrounds. The not-for-profit Grizzly and swatting at salmon. often return, as if to confirm Wolf Discovery Center, also host to a the reality and proximity of first-class educational exhibit center and theater, is the these mysterious ancestors to today’s canines. last stop for some of nature’s most recognizable and yet The GWDC is AZAA (American Zoo and Aquarium most threatened creatures. But it should be a first-stop Association) certified, a much prized and hard-earned for visitors to the park. endorsement.A visit to the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery All of the center’s grizzlies were otherwise doomed, Center will easily win over the hearts and minds of visthanks in no small part to their unfortunate adjustment itors of any age. to, or run-ins with, humans. Foolish interactions–like For more information, call the GWDC at 800-257feeding them–or the misguided killing of predatory 2570 or go online its site: www.grizzlydiscoveryctr.org. sows by ranchers,put these bears on a path toward cer— Mike Calabrese

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WYOMING • 82513

A pack string heads up the Du Noir River Valley into the Washakie Wilderness Area.

by Nancy Debevoise The mountain-hemmed town of Dubois and the Upper Wind River Valley that surrounds it are only about an hour’s drive from Jackson Hole, but they’re a world away. Trade alpine for desert... The area is one of the most spectacularly scenic— and still relatively undiscovered—vacation destinations in the Northern Rockies. Dubois is a small ranching community (population about 900) set on the Wind River between the Absaroka and Wind River mountain ranges. The town and its outlying hay meadows and cattle ranches are bordered by several million acres of National Forest, more than half of which are protected as wilderness areas. SPECTACULAR WILD COUNTRY

To the east of town are the dramatic red rock canyons and colorful rock formations of the Dubois Badlands. To the southwest loom the rugged peaks and glacial lakes of theWind River Range.To the North rise the pine-clad slopes and alpine meadows of the Absaroka Range. And rolling away to the southeast are the sagebrush hills and high plains of the vast Wind River Indian Reservation, home to the Northern Arapahoe and Eastern Shoshone tribes. The valley abounds with wildlife. Nearby Whiskey Mountain supports the largest herd of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep in North America.Other big-game animals and rare species thrive in the wild country that surrounds Dubois: moose, elk, antelope, deer, wolf, mountain lion, bald and golden eagle, grizzly and black bear. Area streams and lakes teem with an impressive array of game fish,including rainbow,lake,brook,cutthroat,golden and brown trout, grayling and mountain whitefish.

WHAT TO DO IN DUBOIS

Although outdoor adventures are the area’s specialty, there’s lots to do in town as well. The National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center is a major visitor attraction. The center houses a number of impressive exhibits on bighorn sheep biology and successful herd management methods used at Whiskey Mountain. Next door, the Dubois Museum’s exhibits link the valley’s ethnic, social, cultural, and work history with its archaeology, geology, and natural history. On Friday nights cowboys and cowgirls take to the arena just east of town at the Clarence Allison Arena to test their rodeo skills.Chuckwagon dinners,square dancing, bazaars, even Shakespeare (Richard II will make an appearance on stage) have a hand in Dubois summer events. Naturally, town shops proffer everything from cowboy boots and fly-fishing gear to handsome coffee-table books and upscale gifts.Mother Nature is open seven days a week and so is Wind River Gear, located right in the heart of Dubois. Between Wind River Gear and Whiskey Mountain Tackle Shop, a recreationist would be hard pressed to hit the great outdoors unprepared. A tour of town stores also reveals fine silver jewelry, crafts by Native American tribes, high-quality Westerntheme gifts, and crafts by local artists. OFF THE BEATEN PATH

Dubois is a busy place in the summer,but the solitude and natural splendor of the badlands and mountains are only minutes away. Miles of scenic unpaved roads take visitors in vehicles or on mountain bikes deep into the backcountry,and dozens of trailheads lead to a network of

Stop in for all your fishing, camping & hunting supplies.

Whiskey Mtn. Tackle & Sports 1428 Warm Springs Drive

307-455-2587 whiskeymtntackle@dteworld.com

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well-maintained hiking and horse trails. Southwest of Dubois is Union Pass,said to be the only place in the country where three river sources flow in different directions: streams born on the pass eventually join the Columbia, Mississippi, and Colorado rivers. Union Pass is accessible to four-wheel-drive vehicles during the summer months and early fall. Southeast of town is Whiskey Mountain with its resident bighorn sheep herd and a major trailhead that serves as the jumping-off point for hikes and horse-packing trips into the Fitzpatrick Wilderness.The dirt road that leads to the trailhead makes for slow going, but sharp-eyed travelers can spot ancient petroglyphs carved into rock faces along the way. For those who really want to get away from it all, a number of local outfitters offer guided fishing and packhorse trips into nearby wilderness areas. For more information about Dubois and the Upper Wind River Valley, contact the Dubois Chamber of Commerce, P.O.Box 632,Dubois,WY 82513,(307) 455-2556,or on-line at duboiswyoming.org. Nancy Debevoise’s articles about the Northern Rockies have appeared in The New York Times, The Washington Post, Travel & Leisure, and Destination Discovery.

Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center Few mammals can match the Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep for its sure-footedness. Powerful and nimble, even at 250 to 300 pounds, it treads crags and rocky trails like no other creature on earth. But this magnificent animal’s survival is threatened all over the West.Fortunately,its beauty and tenuous existence have been showcased graphically and elegantly in the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center, right in downtown Dubois,Wyoming. Stunning, full-size bighorns—set amidst their natural flora and geology—lend to this center a breathtaking realism. Photos and hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range and habits of these powerful animals. Set aside some time for the kids to take in the center’s engaging hands-on displays and information. Dubois, of course, hosts this interpretive center for good reason: nearby Whiskey Mountain is home to the largest wintering herd of Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep in North America.And,during winter, the staff offers fully guided tours to the snowy habitat. The center’s website also accesses a biologist’s journal describing the sheep’s slow recovery from the population “crash” of 1990. Located right on the main street of Dubois (which just happens to be Wyoming Highway 287/26), the National Bighorn Sheep Interpretive Center is open daily from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. during the summer.Admission fees are $2.50 for adults and $6 for families. For more information, call toll free (888) 2092795, go on-line at www.bighorn.org, or e-mail the center at info@bighorn.org.— Mike Calabrese

Photos: Bob Woodall / Triangle C Ranch-Thuner Mountain Outfitters

DUBOIS


LODGING DIRECTORY Grand Targhee Resort

Lakeside Lodge Resort

Grand Targhee offers convenient, comfortable, and flexible lodging both on-mountain and in Teton Valley. Whether you desire to be at the Resort or on Ski Hill Road you have immediate access to the area’s summer adventures including mountain biking, horseback riding, rafting, fly fishing, and much more. Alta, Wyoming 83414 1-800-TARGHEE 307-353-2300 www.GrandTarghee.com

Located on the shore of Fremont Lake 4-miles north of Pinedale. Western hospitality, privacy & informal comfort surrounded by pristine wilderness. The resort includes a main lodge & restaurant, deluxe & rustic log cabins, and marina with boat rentals. A perfect location for meetings, conventions, family reunions, receptions, training sessions or any large group function.

Two miles from historic town square, 1 block from free bus shuttle, Next to Kmart shopping center with shops and restaurants. All guest rooms were completely remodeled spring 2009. Guest rooms surround a park like setting for picnics and our swimming pool. Guest laundries, free local calls, free morning coffee,WIFI access & expanded cable. Pet friendly & kids under 18 stay free 600 So. Hwy 89, Jackson, Wy 83001 307-733-1620 Fax: 307-734-9175 Reservations Number 1-800-466-8356 www.motel6.com

Located just three blocks from the Town Square, the Painted Buffalo Inn offers convenient, comfortable accommodations in the heart of Jackson. Within walking distance, you will find streets lined with restaurants, shops, and galleries. Once here, our knowledgeable staff will help to ensure an enjoyable vacation for you and your family.

Pinedale, Wyoming 82941 877-755-LAKE / 307-367-2221 www.LakesideLodge.com

Motel 6 Resort in Jackson

Painted Buffalo Inn

400 West Broadway, Jackson, WY 83001 800-288-3866 / 307-733-4340 www.paintedbuffaloinn.com info@paintedbuffaloinn.com

Jackson Hole Super 8

The Point Inn & Suites The lodging facility that offers service with a smile combined with price and comfort that adds value to your trip! Ask about our group rates, packages and specials. Always free continental breakfast; concierge; WIFI; micro-fridge. Come and relax in our giant hot tub and sauna! 350 South Highway 89, P.O. Box 9179 Jackson, WY 83002 877-JHPlace / 307-733-4340 www.ThePoinntJH.com email: reservations@thepointjh.com

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Experience true Western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Just steps away from the free city bus, river rafting, and other recreation. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator,cable TV with HBO and free local calls. Custom packages & group rates. 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, WY 83001 800-800-8000 / 307-733-6833 www.jacksonholesuper8.com jacksonholesuper8@wyom.net

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A C T I V I T I E S –B U S I N E S S E S –S E R V I C E S rentals at Jackson Hole Sports. Gear, sportswear, shoes, accessories and more. 307-739-2687 pg 41 TETON VILLAGE ASSOCIATION Several sports stores in Teton Village rent, sell and service bicycles. For a complete overview, pick up the Free Village Mix brochure in all Teton Village Businesses or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 41

T E TO N V A L L E Y- D R I G G S / V I C TO R , I D A H O GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Mountain bike rentals, single & double track riding from base. Expert downhill riding from top of chairlift. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 44

BOATING–CANOEING–KAYAKING SCENIC & WHITEWATER RAFTING J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G MAD RIVER BOAT TRIPS With 14 departures daily, Mad River has something for everyone. New equipment, trained guides & the most variety. Breakfast, lunch & dinner trips.The best name in whitewater & scenic trips! 1255 S Hwy 89, 307-733-6203/800-458-7238 pg 21 SANDS WILDWATER RIVER TRIPS In our 5th decade, our boatmen have a deep knowledge of every turn, rapid, & current. We've taken tens of thousands of people safely down river, including the President of the United States. Variet of scenic & whitewater trips, breakfast & overnight trips. 307-733-4410/800-358-8184 pg 21

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ACCOMMODATIONS, CAMPING & SPAS

APPAREL

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BUFFALO BILL’S CODY/YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY Information center, 836 Sheridan Av., 800-393-2639 www.yellowstonecountry.org pg 37

SIERRA TRADING POST OUTLET STORE Cody’s best selection of outdoor clothing and equipment. The North Face, Carhartt, Kelty, Vasque, Marmot, Pearl Izumi, Lowe Alpine. Just south of the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, 1402 8th Street, 307-578-5802 pg 38

D U B O I S , W YO M I N G TRIANGLE C RANCH 3-6 day traditional summer dude ranch vacations with programs for the whole family. (800) 661-4928 or 307- 455-2225

G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Take a scenic chairlift to the summit, experience geocache treasure hunting or horseback riding in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 44

J AC K S O N , W YO M I N G MOTEL 6 Remodeled! Remardable! Clean, friendly, affordable. Pet friendly, kids under 18 stay free. Outdoor pool & picnic courtyard open in summer. Guest laundry. WIFI. 600 So. Hwy 89, motel6.com, 307-733-1620 Reservations call: 800-4MOTEL6 pg 35 & 51 PAINTED BUFFALO INN Offers comfortable lodging in the heart of downtown Jackson, 3-blocks from the Town Square. Swimming pool, sauna & shuttle stops are just a few of the conveinences we offer. 400 W. Broadway, www.paintedbuffaloinn.com 800-288-3866 pg 51 POINT INN AND SUITES Service with a smile combine with the price and comfort that adds value to your trip. Free breakfast, WIFI, microfridge, hot tub, sauna. www.ThePointJH.com 877-547-5223 pg 51 SUPER 8 Experience true western hospitality in the heart of Jackson Hole. Complimentary breakfast, evening popcorn, free wireless internet, microwave/refrigerator. Custom packages & group rates. www.jacksonholesuper8.com, 750 S Hwy 89, Jackson, 800-8008000/307-733-6833 pg 51 VIRGINIAN LODGE 170 rooms, jacuzzi suites, phones, restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facilities, cable TV. Summer RV park. 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999 pg 31 VIRGINIAN RV PARK 105 large spaces, 64 pull-through spaces. 50 amp electric, full sewer hook-up, cable TV, laundry, swimming pool, restaurant, saloon and liquor store. 307-733-7189 pg 31

PINEDALE, WYOMING LAKESIDE LODGE RESORT AND MARINA Located on the shore of Fremont Lake, 4-miles north of Pinedale. Privacy & informal comfort surrounded by pristine wilderness. Resort includes main lodge & restaurant, deluxe & rustic log cabins, & marina, with magnificent views of the lake & the Wind River Mountain Range. www.lakesidelodge.com, 307-367-2221 pg 51 THE LODGE AT PINEDALE Center of Pinedale, 43 rooms, deluxe continental breakfast,comp evening cookies, indoor pool & jacuzzi,laundry, lobby computer w/high-speed internet, refrigerator & microwave in every room, Sat-TV w/HBO. www.lodgeatpinedale.com. 866-995-6343 pg 47 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE MountainManCountry.com pg 46

T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G HOSTEL A friendly lodge with rooms all have private baths & maid service. Rates range from $69 for 1-2 people to $109 for 3-4 people. Bunkrooms available. At the base of the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram, in Teton Village, Wyoming. www.thehostel.us 307-733-3415 pg 41 JACKSON HOLE RESORT LODGING Conveniently located next to the Teton Village Market, lodging & accommodation for all seasons. Affordable condos to luxury vacation homes, for family getaways and reunions. 800-443-8613, 307-733-3990 pg 41 TETON VILLAGE ASSOCIATION A wide variety of lodging choices from high end to very affordable are available in Teton Village. Pick up the Free Village Mix brochure in all Teton Village businesses for the various listings or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 41

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D U B O I S , W YO M I N G WIND RIVER GEAR Technical clothing, footware, rain gear, casual wear, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, optics, books, GPS, compasses, maps, even canine gear for your best friend. ....where outdoor adventures begin. www.windrivergearshop.com, 19 N. First St., 307-455-3468, pg 50

J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 41th Anniversary! Locally owned & operated, Jackson’s premier outdoor store, extensive selection of brand name products needed for any outdoor pursuit. Two locations; on the Square in Jackson 307-733-3270, Alpenhof in Teton Village 307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 19 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, accessories & Resort wear for the entire family. Mountain bike rentals and lift tickets. 307-739-2687 pg 41 TERRA Find unique pieces from local artists as well as Calypso, Trina Turk, True Religion, Joe’s Jeans, James Perse, Robert Graham, Splendid, Lacoste, Tibi. 105 E. Broadway. 307-734-0067 pg 15 TETON VILLAGE ASSOCIATION Teton Village boast a wide range of well-assorted High Mountain and Outdoor apparel stores. Pick up the Free Village Mix brochure in all Teton Village Businesses for the various listings or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com pg 41

ART, JEWELRY & MUSIC J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G DANSHELLEY JEWELERS: Wyoming’s Finest Jewelry Experience since 1976! From diamonds to elk ivory, to Teton & wildlife originals and distinctive wedding sets. This gallery transcends the ordinary! Downtown in Gaslight Alley, just off the Town Square. www.DanShelley.com 125 N. Cache. 307-733-2259 pg 3 GRAND TARGHEE MUSIC FESTIVALS Great food, vendors, games, part of our summer music festivals. Tent camp in our beautiful forest during events. It starts with the 5th Annual Targhee Fest, July 1719. Next is the 4th Annual Bluegrass Music Camp, Aug 18-21, and the 22nd Annual Grand Targhee Bluegrass Festival, Aug 21-23. www.grandtarghee.com pg 44 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. Call Mike Calabrese, 307-733-5459 pg 21 TETON VILLAGE ASSOCIATION Throughout the summer season Teton Village hosts several art and antique shows and musical performances. For a listing of events, pick up the Free Village Mix brochure in all Teton Village Businesses or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com or call 1-866-749-4077 pg 41

BICYCLE: RENTAL, SALES, & SERVICE J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G FAT TIRE TOURS Guided mountain-bike adventures on the Elk Refuge, Snow King Mountain, and the Bridger-Teton Forest. Beginners thru experts. Great Fun. 40 S. Millward. 307-733-5335 pg 23 HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike shop. Staffed by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. Dealer for Specialized, Trek, Haro and Santa Cruz. Bike tours daily. 520 West Broadway. 307-733-5335 pg 23 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS Bike Rentals for the entire family in the Bridger Center, Teton Village. Free Teewinot lift access with full day

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LAKESIDE LODGE & MARINA Offers marina services, gas, boat slips—seasonal & temporary, trailer parking, pontoon, small fishing boat, canoe, kayak, paddle boat & jet boat rentals. Quick tie ups for those stopping for a meal, purchase beer, or to visit. On Fremont Lake, 4–miles from Pinedale. www.lakesidelodge.com, 307-367-2221 pg 51

CAMERAS, BINOCULARS & PHOTOGRAPHY J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G DD CAMERA CORRAL Jackson’s oldest full service camera store. Authorized dealer: Canon, Nikon, Lica, & Pentax. Binoculars, film, frames, & accessories. Friendly & knowledgeable staff. 2-hour film & digital processing. 60 So. Cache, across from Eddie Bauer. 307-733-3831 pg 2, 7 & 55 FOCUS PRODUCTIONS, INC. Publishers of Mountain Country, Jackson Hole Skier & JH Dining Guide. Commercial & editorial photography & stock photo library. 307-733-6995 www.focusproductions.com WILD BY NATURE GALLERY features the wildlife & landscape photography of Henry H. Holdsworth. Behind the Wort Hotel, 95 West Deloney wildbynaturegallery.com 307-733-8877 pg 15

CLIMBING GUIDES & CLIMBING WALL G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE CLIMBING WALL Experience the fun and chal111lenge of sport climbing right at the base area. Our experienced staff will help coach you to the top of our specially designed climbing wall. pg 44

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN GUIDES Since 1968 Offering guided climbs and rock climbing instruction in the Tetons, Winds, Beartooths, Red Rocks, Moab & Indian Creek and City of Rocks. 800239-7642 www.jhmg.com pg 29

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Left: Bob Woodall; Right: Bob Woodall / Triangle C Ranch-Thuner Mountain Outfitters

Aerial view – Flat Creek, Wyoming

SUBLETTE COUNTY Hiking & climbing in the Wind River & Wyoming Ranges.MountainManCountry.com pg 46

FOOD–RESTAURANTS–DELI–GROCERIES LOUNGES & LIQUOR STORES G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G

GRAND TARGHEE serves up a variety of fare at reasonable prices. Find fine dining at the Branding Iron Grille, quick snacks at Snorkel’s or Wild Bill’s Grille, or a full service cafeteria. The Trap Bar & Grille is home to great food, spirits and local entertainment in a casual atmosphere. pg 44

J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G

BACKCOUNTRY PROVISIONS Featuring quality ingredients, fast service, and great value, BCP is the locals #1 choice for breakfast & lunch. Voted best sandwich in Jackson. Open 7 am to 5pm, 7 days a week. Located 1/2 block west of the town square on Delony St. 307-734-9420 pg 27 BILLY’S GIANT HAMBURGERS The locals' first choice for a great half pound burger, hot dogs and sandwiches. In a lively diner atmosphere. Daily from 11:30 thru dinner. Counter service & takeout. Next to the Cadillac Grille, on the Square. 307-733-3279 pg 56 CADILLAC GRILLE A locals' favorite for over 20 years. Choice steaks, game, fresh seafood & pasta. Innovative dishes prepared with care & precision for the discerning palate. Lunch & dinner. Premium well drinks. Bar menu. 2-for-1 happy hour 5-7daily. Opens daily at 11:30. On the Jackson Town Square. 307-733-3279 pg 56 COULOIR AT JH MOUNTAIN RESORT Step off the Bridger Gondola 3,000’ above the valley at 9,095’ for fine dining at the Couloir Restaurant, a truely unique dining experience. Open evenings ThurSat, June 18-27, Wed-Sun, July 4-Labor Day. Cocktails & appetizers on the “Deck,” start July 4. Ride FREE 5:30-10p.m. 307-739-2654 pg 41 43 NORTH Upscale Tavern at the Base of Snow King Mountain.


Open nightly with alfresco and rooftop dining. Live Music. Enjoy aged steaks, fresh seafood, and micro-brewed beer. 733-0043 pg 13 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo:jerkey, salami, smoked roast, steaks & burger. Elk: steaks, burgers & jerky. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift packs smoked trout & more. WE SHIP! Free Samples south of town in Smith’s Plaza, & downtown in Gaslight Alley. 800-543-6328 / 733-4159. www.buybuffalomeat.com pg 2 JACKSON HOLE DINING GUIDE This 96 page magazine is a compendium of menus from the areas restaurants, with index of food types, along with maps to restaurants. Pick up a copy at your lodge or view on line at www.focusproductions.com JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT At Teton Village, over 12 restaurants offer breakfast, lunch & dinner, from gourmet burgers, pizza to distinct American cuisine. pg 41 McDONALD’S OF JACKSON HOLE Where quality, service, cleanliness & value are a tradition. Featuring McDonald's freshly prepared breakfast & regular menu favorites. Wi-Fi availability for your convenience. 5:00am-midnight daily. 1110 W. Broadway @ Hwy 22. pg 13 TETON LIQUOR Cold beer, full selection of liquor & a great variety of wine, mixers, ice & more. Conveniently located next to K-Mart on South highway 89. Open daily. Order online at www.jackson holewineandspirits.com, 307-739-1122 pg 35 TETON STEAKHOUSE Breakfast, lunch & dinner. Steaks, salad bar, chicken, seafood & more. Jackson’s local favorite! Corner of Pearl & Cache across from Antler Inn. pg 33 TETON VILLAGE ASSOCIATION A wide array of food and drink establishments are scattered throughout Teton Village. Pick up the Village Mix brochure in all Teton Village Businesses for the various listings, visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com 866-749-4077 pg 41 VIRGINIAN SALOON Restaurant, saloon, liquor store, convention facilities, 750 W Broadway. 307-733-2792 or 800-262-4999. pg 31

P I N E DALE, WYO M I N G LAKESIDE LODGE RESTAURANT Dine inside or out on the deck and enjoy fine food and spirits in a casual atmosphere with breathtaking views of Fremont Lake and the Wind River Mountains.www.lakesidelodge.com, 307-367-2221 pg 51

T E TO N V A L L E Y — V I C TO R , I D A H O VICTOR EMPORIUM Ice cream & more. World Famous Huckleberry Shakes. Something for every member of the family, even the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 44

W E S T Y E L LOW S TO N E , M O N TA N A ERNIE’S DELI & BAKERY Picnic box lunches. Sandwiches made with fresh baked bread! Deli-sliced meats & cheeses. Breakfast bakery items. Dine in or take out. Beer & wine. Call ahead for “no wait” pick-up! 406-646-9467, 406 Hwy 20. pg 49

GIFTS, ANTIQUES & RETAIL SPECIALTIES J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G TETON VILLAGE Gift shops, apparel, sports equipment, at Jackson Hole Sports in the Bridger Center. 732-3618 pg 41 JACKSON HOLE BUFFALO MEAT Buffalo & Elk steaks, burgers, jerky, salami & smoked roasts. Pick up your steak for the BBQ. Gift packs available, WE SHIP! SEE FOOD & RESTAURANTS pg 2 JACKSON HOLE RESORT STORE The official logo store of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Your source for logo apparel & gifts on the east side of the Jackson Town Square. 307-734-6045 pg 41

T E TO N V A L L E Y-V I C TO R / D R I G G S , I D A H O VICTOR EMPORIUM Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World Famous Huckleberry Shakes, & more. Something for every member of the family, even the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 44

FRISBEE GOLF G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE RESORT 18-hole disk golf course. 1-800TARGHEE pg 44

J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G 9-HOLE FRISBEE GOLF Course starts at Jackson Hole Sports in Teton Village. Course is free, maps, info and discs available in the shop. 307-739-2687 pg 41

GUIDES & OUTFITTERS FISHING–HORSEBACK RIDING–HUNTING D U B O I S , W YO M I N G THUNDER MOUNTAIN OUTFITTERS 3-6 day horse-pack, fishing, covered wagon & hunting trips into the Absaroka & Wind River Mountains. 800-661-4928 or 307-455-2225 WHISKEY MOUNTAIN TACKLE We are a full sporting goods store that offers the area’s largest selection of flies, topo maps, hunting & camping gear. Licenses & ATV permits also. 307-455-2587 pg 50

TIRES—BRAKES—ALIGNMENT J AC K S O N , W YO M I N G BIG 0 TIRES Featuring famous Big O Brand Tires. Bigfoot tires for all your SUV and 4x4 needs. Computor alignment, complete brake service, shocks, struts & wheels. Best tire warranty in the business. 90day financing availale. www.bigotires.com. Next to K-Mart & Motel 6, 530 S. Hwy 89, 307-733-8325 pg 35

TRAM—GONDOLA–CHAIRLIFTS G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Take a scenic chairlift to the summit, access our mountain bike trails or horseback riding in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 44

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G

Du Noir River, Wyoming National Park. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 19 YELLOWSTONE OUTFITTERS 2 & 4 hr & all-day horseback rides into Teton Wilderness. 6-day 1st class horse-pack trips into Yellowstone & Thorofare Rivers. Orvis-endorsed outfitter. Box Creek base camp east of Moran Jct. @ 23590 Buffalo Valley Road. June, July, Aug & Sept. Reservations needed, 307-543-2418, 800-447-4711 pg 31 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE Hiking, fishing, riding in the Wind River & Wyoming Ranges.MountainManCountry.com pg 46

T E TO N V A L L E Y-V I C TO R / D R I G G S , I D A H O VICTOR EMPORIUM Where the locals shop for fishing advice & gear! Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World Famous Huckleberry Shakes, & more. Something for every member of the family, even the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 44

OUTDOOR SHOPS CO DY , W YO M I N G SIERRA TRADING POST OUTLET STORE Cody’s best selection of outdoor clothing and equipment. The North Face, Carhartt, Kelty, Vasque, Marmot, Pearl Izumi, Lowe Alpine. Just south of the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, 1402 8th Street, 307-578-5802 pg 38

D U B O I S , W YO M I N G WHISKEY MOUNTAIN TACKLE We are a full sporting goods store that offers the area’s largest selection of flies, topo maps, hunting & camping gear. Licenses & ATV permits also. 307-455-2587 pg 50 WIND RIVER GEAR Technical clothing, footware, rain gear, casual wear, trekking poles, tents, sleeping bags, camp gear, optics, books, GPS, compasses, maps, even canine gear for your best friend. ....where outdoor adventures begin. www.windrivergearshop.com, 19 N. First St., 307-455-3468, pg 50

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G RIVER RUNNERS MUSEUM Historic boats, rafts, artifacts & replicas take visitors into another era, when river running was a courageous & risky means of travel. In the Mad River Boat Trips “Wedge,” 1255 S Hwy 89, Jackson 307-733-6203 pg 21 WILDLIFE EXPEDITIONS OF TETON SCIENCE SCHOOL provides yearround wildlife viewing & natural history interpretation to anyone interested in close-up, ethical viewing of Greater Yellowstone’s wild animals in their natural habitat. www.wildlifeexpeditions.org 888-945-3567, 307733-2623 pg 7

P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G 73rd ANNUAL GREEN RIVER RENDEZVOUS PAGEANT This hourlong re-enactment relives the early mountain man & Indian history of the area. “Meet Me on the Green!” Sunday, July 12, 1pm at the Pinedale Rodeo Grounds. 307-367-2242. pg 47 MUSEUM OF THE MOUNTAIN MAN Exhibits on fur trade, Mountain Men, Plains Indians and Western exploration. Open daily 9am-5pm through September 30. Green River Rendezvous weekend July 12-15, 2006. Toll free-877-686-6266 pg 46

W E S T Y E L LOW S TO N E , M O N TA N A GRIZZLY & WOLF DISCOVERY CENTER See LIVE bears & wolves. Get a glimpse into their worlds at this AZA accredited, Not-forProfit, Wildlife Park & Educational Center. Films, programs & activities for all ages. 1-block from Yellowstone National Park. Open 365 days a year (GWDC bears DO NOT hibernate). 1-800-257-2570 pg 49

T E TO N V A L L E Y- D R I G G S / V I C TO R , I D A H O VICTOR EMPORIUM Where the locals shop for fishing advice & gear! Hats, gifts, T-shirts, ice cream, World Famous Huckleberry Shakes, & more. Something for every member of the family, even the dog! Downtown Victor. 208-787-2221 pg 44

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D U B O I S , W YO M I N G NATIONAL BIGHORN SHEEP INTERPRETIVE CENTER Enjoyable & educational experience."Sheep Mountain,"photos & hands-on exhibits draw visitors into the majestic range & habits of these magnificent animals. Gift shop. 9am-8pm daily. 307-455-3429 pg 15

J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G

G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G

J AC K S O N & T E TO N V I L L AG E , W YO M I N G

WILDLIFE & PHOTO SAFARIS –TOURS MUSEUMS, & INTERPRETIVE CENTERS

HOBACK SPORTS Jackson’s largest & complete bike & outdoor shop. Staffed by professionals who can rent, repair, fit & accessorize. Hiking & running shoes and accessories. 520 West Broadway-#3. 307733-5335 pg 23 JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 40th Anniversary! Locally owned and operated. Extensive selection of brand name products for any outdoor pursuit. Hand-crafted flies, & superior service. On the Square in Jackson, 307-733-3270, the Alpenhof in Teton Village 307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 19 JACKSON HOLE SPORTS In the Bridger Center, Teton Village, is your one-stop shop for an active summer outing. Sportswear, shoes, accessories & Resort wear for the entire family. Mountain bike rentals and lift tickets. 307-739-2687 pg 41 TETON VILLAGE ASSOCIATION Several Outdoor stores in Teton Village have gear, clothing etc. to outfit you for any adventure. For a complete overview, pick up the Village Mix brochure in all Teton Village Businesses or on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com.pg 41 WESTBANK ANGLERS Jackson Hole’s fly fishing experts. Most complete selection of flies & tackle available. Mail order & website catalogues. Retail store on the Teton Village Road, just North of the Aspens. 307-733-6483 or 800-922-3474 pg 19

GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons, where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Go horseback riding in our panoramic backcountry. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 44 JACK DENNIS SPORTS Celebrating our 40th Anniversary! Exceptional guided fishing trips, hand-crafted flies, and superior service are the norm. On the Square in Jackson, 307-733-3270 & the Alpenhof in Teton Village, 307-733-6838. www.jackdennis.com pg 19 TETON VILLAGE TRAIL RIDES Take a horseback ride on the Historic Snake River Ranch with a real cowboy. Hourly rides. Quality mountain horses. Next to Teton Village. 307-733-2674 pg 31 WAGONS WEST COVERED WAGON TREKS Relive pioneer days on a 2, 4 or 6 day trek into the Mt. Leidy highlands. wagons@silverstar.com 307-886-5284, 800-447-4711 pg 31 WESTBANK ANGLERS Home to Jackson Hole’s most experienced & professional guided fly fishing services. Full & 1/2 day trips, beginner to experts. Snake, Green, New Fork & South Fork Rivers & Yellowstone

JACKSON HOLE AERIAL TRAM The NEW tram is here! Ride 4,139’ above the valley to 10,450’ and the alpine timberline environment. Take in the 360 degree panorama, naturalist on duty. The bigger cabins can accomodate up to 60 people. 307-739-2654 pg 41 JACKSON HOLE BRIDGER GONDOLA Ride 3,000’ above the valley to 9,095’ and the Bridger Restaurant. Cocktails & appetizers on the “Deck” or fine dining at the Couloir Restaurant. Open evenings Thur-Sat, June 18-27; Wed-Sun, July 4-Labor Day. Ride FREE 5:3010p.m. 307-739-2654 pg 41 TEEWINOT CHAIRLIFT In Teton Village ride the chairlift with your bike or on foot to access miles of single track for all types of riders and hiking trails into Grand Teton NP. Tickets & bike rentals at JH Sports in the Bridger Center, at the base of the lift. Free lift ticket if you rent from a bike from JH Sports. 307-739-2687 pg 41

PARAGLIDING JH PARAGLIDING Tandem paragliding rides from the top of the Jackson Hole Aerial Tram—the experience of a lifetime. Instruction available. Reservations & rates in Café 6311 at the Nick Wilson’s at the base of the Bridger Gondola, (307) 690-4948 pg 41

WYOMING HISTORICAL SITE & VISITOR CENTER CO DY , W YO M I N G BUFFALO BILL DAM & VISITOR CENTER Open daily May 1-Sept. 30. Free admission, enjoy views from the top of the dam. The center includes exhibits, a theater, a self-guided audio tour, bookstore, & restrooms. www.BBDVC.org Located 6 miles west of Cody on way to Yellowstone. pg 37

WEDDINGS, CONVENTIONS, PARTIES G R A N D TA R G H E E , W YO M I N G GRAND TARGHEE RESORT Experience the majestic Tetons where all activities provide a sensory thrill ride. Call 1-800-TARGHEE pg 44

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G JACKSON HOLE MOUNTAIN RESORT Full service resort in Teton Village. Hotels, restaurants, lounges, recreation. 307-733-2292 pg 41 NOTEWORTHY MUSIC AGENCY Provides entertainment for all types of occasions. www.noteworthymusicagency.com Call Mike Calabrese 307-733-5459 pg 21

P I N E D A L E , W YO M I N G LAKESIDE LODGE & RESTAURANTHas meeting facilities to accommodate up to 100 participants for your company meeting/convention, weddings, family reunions or other special events. Catering service is available. www.lakesidelodge.com, 1-877-755LAKE(5253) / 307-367-2221 pg 51 SUBLETTE COUNTY & PINEDALE MountainManCountry.com pg 46

RODEO

REAL ESTATE

CO DY , W YO M I N G

J AC K S O N H O L E , W YO M I N G

CODY NITE RODEO Best of Buffalo Bill’s Wild West. All Rodeo Events. Nightly at 8:00, June 1– Aug. 31. Kid’s events, clowns, covered grandstand, free parking. Tickets available at the covered wagon in city park, front gate & various businesses. 307-587-5155 or 800-207-0744 pg 33

TETON VILLAGE ASSOCIATION Several Real Estate offices located in Teton Village. For a complete overview, pick up the Free Village Mix brochure in all Teton Village businesses or visit on-line at www.gotetonvillage.com. pg 41

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INFORMATION BOZEMAN, MONTANA 406-586-5421 CODY, WYOMING 307-587-2297 DUBOIS, WYOMING 307-455-2556 GARDINER, MONTANA 406-848-7971 GRAND TETON NATIONAL PARK 307-739-3300 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING 307-733-3316 LIVINGSTON, MONTANA 406-222-0850 MEETEESE, WYOMING 307-868-2423 PINEDALE, WYOMING 307-367-2242 POWELL, WYOMING 307-754-3494 RED LODGE, MONTANA 406-446-1718 TETON VALLEY/DRIGGS, IDAHO 208-354-2500 WEST YELLOWSTONE, MONTANA 406-646-7701 WIND RIVER VISITORS COUNCIL 800-645-6233 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK 307-344-7381 Map design by Bob Woodall Copyright 2009 – Focus Productions

DUNRAVEN • WASHBURN • SNAKE RIVER • GROS VENTRE • TOGWOTEE PASS • GRAND TETONS • OLD FAITHFUL • PAHASKA • BUFFALO BILL • SHOSHONE • NEZ PERCE • HOBACK • BRIDGER

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• MADISON • MORAN • FIREHOLE • GIBBON • TEEWINOT • ROOSEVELT LODGE • WASHBURN • JENNY LAKE • LEIGH LAKE • NORRIS • GALLATIN • WIND RIVER • ABSAROKA • WAPITI VALLEY

• CODY • DUBOIS • JACKSON HOLE • RED LODGE • MAMMOTH • GARDINER • PINEDALE • WYOMING • IDAHO • MONTANA • YELLOWSTONE •

SNOW KING • HAYDEN VALLEY • MOOSE • WILSON • TETON VILLAGE • DRIGGS • VICTOR • GRAND TARGHEE • BEARTOOTH • COOKE CITY • M O U N TA I N C O U N T R Y A D V E N T U R E G U I D E 2 0 0 9

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ON THE WEST SIDE OF THE SQUARE 733-3279 JACKSON HOLE, WYOMING L A R G E G R O U P S A N D PA R T I E S A R E W E L C O M E w w w. c a d i l l a c - g r i l l e . c o m


Mountain Country Adventure Guide to Grand Teton and Yellowstone Region 2009